Afternoon dress by Lanvin, winter 1910
From Tessier-Sarou
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Ball dress worn by one of the two eldest grand duchesses, either Olga or Tatiana Nikolaevna, early 1910s.
The dress was created in France between circa 1912 and 1914, and appears to have been tailored specifically to the measurements of the grand duchess. The waist circumference is exactly 60cm (23 inches), and the back of the dress measures to 132cm (51 inches). The dress is pink in colour, comprised mainly of satin, with tulle, lace, and gauze as accessories. The chest and fringe is highly detailed with beading and appliqué in the shape of flowers. It might have been produced by the House of Frederick, established in France.
Chief of Security Alexander Spiridovitch recounts Olga Nikolaevna wearing a pink gown to the ball held in honour of her 16th birthday in Livadia, 1911:
‘The heroine of the party, Olga Nikolaevna, in a pink dress and, for the first time, her hair in a chignon, presided over a table.’
Unusually, there doesn’t appear to be any identification on the dress. Most of the four grand duchesses’ clothing had their initials stitched into the waist to help differentiate between their clothing.
Although it has been claimed that none of the four grand duchesses got to enjoy a ball during their lifetimes, their own diaries, paintings, and the memoirs from those closest to them disprove this.
Sources:
Text: Hermitage Museum, The Diary of Olga Romanov: Royal Witness to the Russian Revolution by Helen Azar, Alexander Spiridovitch, Les dernières années de la cour de Tzarskoïé-Sélo, Volume 2. Paris : Payot, pp. 148-151
Photos: Hermitage Museum, Raretes(dot)R
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Señorita Anita Carcano, Buenos Aires, Argentina ca. 1914.
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Silk evening dress by House of Worth, 1912
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It is not proper to wear that incongruous garment known as the 'tea gown' in steamship company nor to appeal outside one's stateroom in anything but the tidiest of toilettes. The woman who comes to the steamship breakfast table in curl papers and a loose elbow sleeved dressing jacket--however becoming and costly the latter may be ....[is] not affording a demonstration of good taste, dignity or good manners.
Although this advice on clothing for steamship traveling dates to 1915, it did remind me of seeing the women who shambled downstairs to a breakfast buffet at a Best Western in Savannah, GA in their jammies the day after St. Patrick’s Day. How hard is it to put on clothes, I thought.
Notice that to Emily Holt who wrote Encyclopedia of Etiquette: A Book of Manners for Everyday Use, it did not matter if the dressing jacket looked wonderful or cost a fortune, the point was the place rather than the price. To her, informal clothing was saved for private, intimate places to be seen by loved ones, and public places where one saw strangers were for formal clothing.
She wrote a whole section on Travellers’ Dress and I will share some of the rules dished out to men soon.
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La Mode illustrée, no. 28, 14 juillet 1912, Paris. Robe de mariée en météore. Toilette de mariée garnie de guipure. Modèles de la maison Piret, transférée maison Maria, rue Royale, 20. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney
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