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#historical corsets
historicalcorsets · 6 months
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Postcard, Milford Haven Collection, Woman in corset and pink and white underclothes, lithograph, probably German, ca. 1906
Accession number: E.523:176-2001
V & A
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poetryincostume · 8 months
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The Saddest Girl In The World
Edwardian-ish ribbon corset with beading, 2023
Silk ribbon, cotton taffeta ribbon, Czech glass beads
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in view of Netflix and a few other networks apparently announcing that they are no longer requiring actors to wear corsets/stays, but framing it as the ultimate in feminist allyship against an Oppressive Historical Torture-Garment (and presumably typing their press releases one-handed, if you catch my drift), I have a few things to say:
1. I presume they will also be condemning Spanx, dieting, weight loss surgery, obsessive exercise, breast or pectoral or ab implants, Flat Tummy Tea, editing actors’ bodies in post, etc. since this is all about promoting healthy body image. ...right?
2. Okay, this one is not tongue-in-cheek: if a costume designer forces you to wear massively uncomfortable stays or corsets and tells you your discomfort is an inherent feature of that garment type, they are lying. All the articles on this cited reports from actresses saying they threw up because of Regency stays or couldn’t eat in Edwardian corsets. And while  I’m sure some of that is giving interview audiences the sensationalism they want to hear, I believe them in general. 
Someone needs to tell them that that’s not normal.
I have worn corsets and stays a lot in my life. I know people who wear them as everyday support garments. And neither I nor anyone I know has been seriously hindered in normal activities by them. There are even photos and videos of women from corset-intensive eras climbing glaciers, playing sports, having snowball fights, doing manual labor...living their lives
 Sure, there have always been and will always be people who find corsets or stays inherently uncomfortable- that’s why it’s good to have many support garment options available for people who need them. And there have always been and will always be ill-made, ill-fitting, or extreme examples of the type- I’m not  saying corsets are always The Most Comfortable Thing Ever For Everyone, because that’s not universally true of any garment.
But these production companies have been hurting actresses under the guise of “historical accuracy,” and this latest pronouncement is just another attempt to shift the blame. 
Don’t let them get away with it.
EDIT: Apparently the Official nature of the source for this announcement is in question, but the gist of the post still stands, so I’m leaving it up. Will edit further if new developments arise.
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badassindistress · 9 months
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do you perhaps have a pattern for that gentleman's corset? asking for a friend
Hi!
Unfortunately, I do not have a pattern to give you, but I do have a way for you/your friend to draft your own.
(If you really do just want a ready pattern, I'm pretty sure my #binding stays or #flattening stays tags include some etsy shops that have binders with corsetry methods)
I'm presuming you are here because that 5 year old post of the binder with elizabethan stays method is going around again (left). I've also since made a pair of stays that flatten nicely as well (right).
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The left pattern was drafted with the free Custom Corset Pattern Generator from elizabethancostume.net. You just input a little extra breathing room in the waist and the bust measurement you can comfortably squish your chest down to.
However, that was many years ago and I have since had more success using a Mariah Pattie's circular drafting technique. It has so much less measuring and math and it gave me a better fit.
Here's my post on that technique, along with her video.
And here's my post amending that to a binder instead of stays.
In short, all you need is:
a large piece of paper
a string
a pen
a measuring tape and
the measurement of your waist circumference
the measurement of your chest bound down circumference
the measurement of the vertical distance between your waist and chest.
You draw out the pattern following the video + my explanation post (this takes me about 30 minutes vs the hour or two for drafting the usual way). Then I make it longer with a cm or two at the bottom and at least 3 cm on top. One change I've made since that post was to pinch out a little dart at the arms to make it lie smoother under clothes. One day I'm going to experiment with adding straps to this design, but today is not that day.
I kept mine quite low, because I wanted a 18th century round chested look, but with straps and longer stays you could probably go flatter (depending on how much you have to flatten of course).
This is what it looks like under a waistcoat tailored according to a menswear manual:
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i'll also drop here the posts of other people who've I've talked about their binders using corsetry and tailoring methods: horsehair canvas summer binder, there's another one about how convenient ribbons are for easy adjustment but i can't find it (EDIT: found it!)
Good luck and do let me know if you've advanced this research any further!
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pinkramiel · 10 months
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yellow-yellow-jacket · 10 months
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avid historical fashion enthusiast here to remind you that corsets and stays were not created as ancient methods of torture.
sure, i am not going to deny that some women did tightlace their corsets — however, not everyone was struggling to breathe and fainting everywhere like fucking goats. part of a corset’s purpose was aesthetic and fashion, but it was also for support. most women still lived their lives, they weren’t just lying around being damsels in distress with itty bitty waists and zero lung capacity.
i just think it’s scary how hollywood has popularized the misconception that corsets are made to be tightlaced — for example, if someone who isn't well educated about historical fashions buys a corset for a costume, they might think it’s normal if they can’t breathe, and that’s dangerous. i cannot emphasize that enough.
when i was performing in a production of beauty and the beast earlier this year, some of the girls — my friends — were tightening their corsets to seriously dangerous extents, and that fucking scared me. i felt like a broken record telling them to loosen their corsets, but all they knew was pirates of the caribbean (that one scene pisses me off sO BAD) and bridgerton (i am NOT gonna start on the corset tightening scene in bridgerton s1, i do not need to get on that soap box).
if you read nothing else in this little rant of mine, read this:
if you cannot breathe while you are wearing a corset, something is wrong.
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18th Century Historical Corset-1780 Stays-Handmade-Made to order by ToderineDeBardi
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ask19thcenturyengland · 5 months
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desolatus · 1 month
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Corset, C. 1891
France
Maison Léoty
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pastlivesfinery · 1 month
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Revue de la Mode, 1872
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Corset
1890s
Fashion Museum Bath via Twitter
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heartyearning · 1 month
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sick and tired of seeing people use zip ties for boning. listen to me i am a costume designer stop using plastic which does not hold your shape (the whole point of boning) you do not need to buy proper coiled boning or anything: go to a hardware store and find flat metal tension spring (google tells me that's what it's called, unfortunately i also don't know what its used for in hardware store related things so i cant describe it if that isnt the correct translation, soz) you can get a roll of 15m x 4mm tension spring for about 15 euros where i live and then you just have to cut it with metal shears (you can use a regular cutting pliers probably but if you have metal shears you will be happier) then either file down the edges a bit if you're genuinely gonna wear it a lot, or you just wind some tape around the edges to make sure putting them in the channels isn't gonna rip your fabric and anyway now you have an actually functional boned garment. go to a hardware store and show them this pic btw:
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^ this is what you want. also bc this is 4mm wide around stress points like closures you want to make 2 channels right alongside each other and put in 2 pieces of tension spring for stability
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sewlastcentury · 8 months
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Free pattern announcement!!
I’ve been working together with clockwork_faerie to bring you a pattern from an extant 1890s corset in my collection. (Waist 33”, bust 40.5”, hips 44”). It’s available for download on my blog here 🧁
The original has loads of cording and very few bones; for ease of mocking up I just made this with bones in the seams. Since it’s paneled and not gusseted, it was a super fast make - this whole thing took three hours. I made no alterations to the pattern for this mock-up. FYI, it is too small for my bust as is, and most people like to have an even 2-4" gap at the back.
This would probably best fit measurements between 38-46” bust, 33-38” waist, and 44-48” hips, but it’s also easy to modify since it’s paneled.
I wanted to make this available for free to promote access, but if you have the money and want to support more projects like this, there is a donation button on the blog (or you can use ko-fi here).
The full size range is now up on Michelle‘s Etsy – link HERE! Go buy <3 <3
Definitely tag us if you make it, I’d love to see!
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marzipanandminutiae · 1 month
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ignore the water spots on the mirror I REMADE MY NATURAL FORM PETTICOAT
HELL YES
NATURAL FORM GOWNS AHOY
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poetryincostume · 8 months
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Helga Sinclair
Edwardianish ribbon corset, 2023
Jacquard ribbon mounted on grosgrain ribbon
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