Dynamite 12/6/23

Mariah wore the Icon Sequin Padded Corset in Black from Ann Summers ($95), Grey Cargo Trousers from Fashion Nova (n/a) and All Over Monogram Print Sneakers from Vans (on sale - $58.50)

Met Gala 2022: The Most Gilded and Glamourous Stars

May 6, 2022, Philippine time 

          On Monday evening, the Met Gala resumed its regular schedule on the first Monday in May, with The Metropolitan Museum of Art hosting its charity event, gathering some of the world's biggest stars who embraced Old Hollywood glamour and honored the Gilded Age.

          Dubbed as the Super Bowl of fashion, the Met Gala is expected to serve numerous iconic and timeless looks on its theme “Gilded Glamour” a theme that leaves a variety of interpretation and inspiration from the Old Hollywood style and the opulence from the early decade of Hollywood sophistication. 

          The 2022 Met Gala, co-chaired by Blake Lively, Ryan Reynolds, Regina King, and Lin-Manuel Miranda, welcomed celebrities and fashion pioneers to present their own renditions of the "Gilded Glamour" theme. Black lace, metallic glisten, feathered motifs and dramatic hues rained down the prestigious red carpet. 

          In no certain order, here are the most gilded and glamourous stars on the 2022 Met gala. 

Blake Lively

Blake Lively amazed everyone on the red carpet with a quick change. Photos from: Versace’s Instagram account https://www.instagram.com/versace/. 

         Blake Lively was among the first celebrities to walk the red carpet. Versace presented her with a glittering metallic gown with a copper train. 

          Lively walked the red carpet in a custom Atelier Versace tulle column gown embroidered with crystals, metallic leather, paillette, and tri-tone copper foil duchesse silk. Halfway through the stairs an oversized foiled bow at the waist unraveled to reveal a second look in bright bluish-green —mimicking the transformation of New York's Statue of Liberty from bronze to oxidized green.

          A beautifully painted, foiled, and stitched cosmic map is featured on the long duchesse train and is inspired by the 12 zodiac constellations that adorn Grand Central Station's ceiling. The dress's initial shape was inspired by American designer Charles James, while art deco features are reflective of New York landmarks such as the Empire State Building.

Alicia Keys 

Alicia Keys stunned everyone by reimagining the concrete jungle where dreams are made of  on a glimmering silver gown by Ralph Lauren. Photos from: Alicia Keys’ Instagram account https://www.instagram.com/aliciakeys/ , Ralph Lauren’s Instagram account https://www.instagram.com/ralphlauren/.

          The iconic singer-pianist Alicia Keys astonished everyone on the red carpet with the majestic skyline of New York City on her  extensive black cape. Keys’ hand-embroidered and hand-beaded duchess satin cape, inspired by New York, has over 200,000 crystals. Her strapless column dress has approximately 30,000 crystals and black lacquer sequins. Both the cape and  the dress were by Ralph Lauren.      

Gigi Hadid    

Gigi Hadid was definitely a head-turner with her monochromatic look. Photos from: Versace’s Instagram account https://www.instagram.com/versace/.

          Gigi Hadid made our heads turn with her monochromatic custom look by Atelier Versace. 

          Hadid stepped in the Met Gala presenting herself in a burgundy puffer coat over a corset catsuit. The custom Atelier Versace puffer coat is the fashion atelier’s modern interpretation of coats from the 1800s and a revamp of the Dolman silhouette. The oversized puffer coat featured a shaded off quilted finish. 

          Hadid’s skin-hugging burgundy corset highlights a pointed neckline. The corset and the jacket's excessive volume clash in a luxurious display of contrast inspired by the late 1800s density and dramatic change in womenswear styles. 

Billie Eilish

Billie Eilish astounded everyone in the Met with her upcycled Gucci look. Photo from: Gucci’s Instagram account https://www.instagram.com/gucci/. 

          Billie Eilish made her entrance on the prestigious gala with an upcycled Gucci look by Alessandro Michele. Eilish wore a tonal duchesse corsage and a custom upcycled Gucci duchesse satin corseted gown with lace underneath and ruffled duchesse satin skirt with padded bustle. An embroidered choker finished her ensemble. Eilish’s look was styled by stylist Dena Neustadter Giannini.

Cardi B

Cardi B’s golden glitz in the gala definitely dazzled everyone. Photo from: Versace’s Instagram account https://www.instagram.com/versace/.

          Cardi B’s high-voltage take on the theme “Gilded Glamour’’ was definitely a head turner at the Met Gala. Cardi B wore an Atelier Versace embroidered golden metal chains on top of a hand-crafted illusion tulle column dress that took 20 members of the Atelier 1300 hours to finish. Medusa medallions and a crystal-encrusted Versace Greca adorn the chains, which visually resemble coins in an abundance of glitz. The complex embroidery can also be found on the arms and neckline, as well as a hand-sculpted collar that resembles a Victorian coat ruffle.

Nicola Coughlan

Nicola Coughlan portrays her Bridgerton character in a pink and black corset-style gown. Photos from: Richard Quinn’s Instagram account https://www.instagram.com/richardquinn/. 

          Nicola Coughlan channels her Bridgerton character in a pink and black corset-style gown by Richard Quinn. Coughlan opted for a feathery style for her first Met Gala. With its silhouette, exposed cups, and use of duchess satin, her look, which consists of an embroidered and feathered pink and black ball gown with matching cape, is inspired by the fabrications of extravagant 19th-century elegance. Coughlan also transformed her signature bob into long, flowing blonde locks for the gala. 

Shawn Mendes 

Shawn Mendes' classic early 1900s look in the Met Gala will be one of the most unforgettable in Met Gala history. Photos from: Shawn Mendes’ Instagram account https://www.instagram.com/shawnmendes/. 

          Shawn Mendes entered the Met Gala with a classic early 1900s look by Tommy Hilfiger. Mendes wore a red and navy Tommy Hilfiger coat with his initials embroidered on the inside lining. Afterwards, he took off the coat to show a sleek navy suit, which he finished with a matching turtleneck and nail polish.

Jared Leto and Alessandro Michele

Jared Leto went twinning with Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele at the Met Gala. Photos from: Gucci’s Instagram account https://www.instagram.com/gucci/. 

          Fashion enthusiasts were seeing double when Jared Leto appeared at the Met Gala Monday night alongside Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Gucci. Leto and Michele matched in a custom Gucci double-breasted suit with all-over floral bouquet embroidery with gold beads and pearls with an evening shirt, suede boots, satin bow tie, and a suede Gucci Blondie bag. The look is inspired by mid-nineteenth-century photography, which used sequences of images to create optical illusions that changed reality.

Sarah Jessica Parker

Sarah Jessica Parker turns heads with her voluminous plaid off-the-shoulder ball gown and quirky fascinator hat. Photos from: Christopher John Rogers’ Instagram account https://www.instagram.com/christopherjohnrogers/.

          Sarah Jessica Parker turns heads with her voluminous plaid off-the-shoulder ball gown and quirky fascinator hat. SJP wore a Christopher John Rogers' contoured, patchworked bodice and pleated ball skirt in Black, Charcoal, Elephant, and Ivory silk faille fabric. The long train of the voluminous skirt flowed behind the film star as she walked down the red carpet. The inspiration for the outfit was Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley, a notable designer, seamstress, essayist, philanthropist, and social crusader active during the Gilded Age.

Disclaimer: I do not own any of these photos. Please note that all images and copyrights belong to their original owners. No copyright infringement intended.

The origins of vintage style Vintage style is a term that is commonly used to describe a type of fashion and style that takes inspiration from earlier decades. It is characterized by a nostalgic and retro aesthetic, often incorporating clothing, accessories, and home decor from the past. But where did this style originate from? Let's take a journey back in time to explore the origins of vintage style. 1. The Roaring Twenties: The origins of vintage style can be traced back to the 1920s, also known as the Roaring Twenties. This era was characterized by a significant shift in fashion, with women embracing shorter hemlines, dropped waistlines, and looser silhouettes. The glitz and glamour of the flapper style, with its sequins, feathers, and beaded embellishments, became synonymous with the extravagant parties and rebellious spirit of the time. 2. The Elegant Forties: Another influential decade in the origins of vintage style is the 1940s. This period was heavily influenced by World War II, with fashion reflecting the need for practicality and austerity. Classic silhouettes, such as the padded shoulders and nipped-in waists of the iconic New Look, became popular. Utility clothing and rationing also played a significant role during this time, resulting in ingenious fashion solutions that remain timeless today. 3. The Swinging Sixties: The 1960s marked a cultural revolution, and its impact on fashion was revolutionary. The youth-driven counterculture movement and the rise of icons like Twiggy and Brigitte Bardot brought about a fresh and vibrant style. Mini skirts, bold prints, and psychedelic patterns became hallmarks of the era. It was a time of self-expression and breaking free from tradition, which still resonates in vintage style today.Conclusion: In conclusion, vintage style has its roots in various influential decades, each contributing its own unique flair and aesthetic. From the glamour of the 1920s to the elegance of the 1940s and the boldness of the 1960s, these eras have left an indelible mark on fashion and continue to inspire designers and fashion enthusiasts today. Understanding the origins of vintage style allows us to appreciate its rich history and timeless appeal, encouraging us to incorporate elements of the past into our modern-day wardrobes and living spaces. The Roaring TwentiesThe Elegant FortiesThe Swinging Sixties- Short hemlines- Classic silhouettes- Mini skirts- Dropped waistlines- Padded shoulders- Bold prints- Sequins, feathers, and beads- Nipped-in waists- Psychedelic patterns The influential decades in vintage fashion Vintage fashion has always been a source of inspiration for designers, influencers, and fashion enthusiasts alike. Over the years, certain decades have emerged as particularly influential in shaping the vintage fashion scene. In this blog post, we will explore some of the most influential decades in vintage fashion and the lasting impact they have had on the industry. One of the first influential decades in vintage fashion is the 1920s, also known as the Roaring Twenties. This era was characterized by a shift in societal norms and the rise of the modern woman. Fashion became more liberated, with women opting for shorter hemlines, loose-fitting dresses, and the iconic flapper look. The 1920s marked a departure from the restrictive corsets and elaborate styles of the previous Victorian era. The next influential decade in vintage fashion is the 1950s. This post-war era witnessed a return to femininity and glamour. The hourglass silhouette became popular, with cinched waists and full skirts accentuating the curves of women. This decade saw the rise of iconic styles such as the poodle skirt and the little black dress. It was also during this time that celebrities like Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn became style icons, further popularizing the fashion trends of the 1950s. The resurgence of vintage home decor Are you tired of the same old home decor trends?

Looking to add a touch of nostalgia and charm to your living space? Look no further - vintage home decor is making a comeback! Whether you're a lover of mid-century modern or prefer the rustic and worn look of farmhouse style, vintage home decor offers a unique and timeless appeal. In this blog post, we will explore the resurgence of vintage home decor and how it can transform your space into a cozy and inviting sanctuary. One of the reasons vintage home decor has regained popularity is its ability to add character and authenticity to any room. Vintage pieces have a story to tell - each item carries with it a sense of history and nostalgia. Whether it's a vintage clock, a worn-out leather armchair, or a collection of vintage china, these pieces bring a sense of warmth and personality to a space that modern decor often lacks. By incorporating vintage elements into your home, you can create a cozy and inviting atmosphere that is truly one-of-a-kind. Additionally, vintage home decor offers a sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to mass-produced furniture and accessories. In a world where fast fashion and disposable consumer goods dominate, more and more people are turning to vintage as a way to reduce waste and make more conscious choices. By purchasing pre-loved items and giving them a new lease on life, you can not only create a unique and stylish home but also contribute to a more sustainable future. When it comes to incorporating vintage home decor into your space, the possibilities are endless. Here are a few tips to get you started: 1. Mix and match:Don't be afraid to mix vintage pieces with modern ones. The key is to find a balance and create harmony within your space. Pair a vintage sofa with a sleek glass coffee table, or place a vintage rug under a contemporary dining set. The contrast between old and new can create a visually interesting and dynamic atmosphere.2. Hunt for treasures:Take the time to explore thrift stores, flea markets, and antique shops. You never know what treasures you may find! Look for unique pieces that speak to you and reflect your personal style. From vintage artwork to retro kitchenware, these small details can make a big difference in transforming your space.3. Embrace imperfections:Vintage furniture and decor often come with their fair share of imperfections - from scratches and dents to worn-out upholstery. Rather than seeing these flaws as a negative, embrace them as part of the item's story and charm. These imperfections add character and uniqueness to your space, making it feel more lived-in and authentic. The impact of vintage lifestyle on the environment Living a vintage lifestyle has become increasingly popular in recent years, as people seek to embrace the charm and nostalgia of times gone by. From fashion to home decor, vintage enthusiasts are turning to secondhand items and upcycling as a way to reduce waste and make a positive impact on the environment. By choosing to incorporate vintage pieces into our lives, we can reduce the demand for new products, which in turn reduces the carbon footprint associated with manufacturing and transportation. One of the key benefits of embracing a vintage lifestyle is the reduction in textile waste. Fast fashion has led to a throwaway culture, with clothing being discarded after only a few uses. This results in a significant amount of textiles ending up in landfills, where they can take decades to decompose. By opting for vintage clothing, we can extend the lifespan of garments and contribute to a more circular economy. Additionally, vintage home decor allows us to breathe new life into forgotten treasures. Rather than purchasing new furniture or decor items, we can scour flea markets, thrift stores, and online platforms for unique vintage pieces. By doing so, we not only reduce waste but also support local businesses and independent sellers. Vintage items often possess a quality and craftsmanship that can be lacking in mass-produced modern alternatives, making them a more sustainable choice.

Reduces waste and landfill Supports local businesses Promotes circular economyLess demand for new products Lower carbon footprint Preserves craftsmanship The future of vintage: sustainability and innovation Vintage fashion has been around for decades, and its popularity shows no signs of waning. As we look to the future, it's important to consider how sustainability and innovation will play a role in the evolution of this timeless style. One of the key factors in the future of vintage fashion is sustainability. In recent years, there has been a growing interest in ethical and sustainable fashion practices. People are becoming more conscious of the environmental impact of the fashion industry and are actively seeking out alternatives. Vintage clothing is one such alternative, as it promotes reusing and recycling existing garments instead of contributing to the demand for new ones. By embracing vintage fashion, we can reduce waste and lessen our carbon footprint. Innovation is also set to shape the future of vintage style. With advancements in technology, we are now able to access vintage clothing and accessories from around the world with just a few clicks. Online platforms and marketplaces have made it easier than ever to find and buy vintage items, expanding the reach and availability of vintage fashion. Additionally, the rise of sustainable fashion brands that specialize in creating new garments with a vintage-inspired aesthetic is demonstrating how innovation can merge with vintage style to create something truly unique and forward-thinking. Content Rich Exploring the origins of vintage style Uncovering the influential decades in vintage fashion Understanding the resurgence of vintage home decor Examining the impact of vintage lifestyle on the environment Discussing the future of vintage: sustainability and innovation SubheadingsContentThe origins of vintage styleDeep dive into the origins of vintage fashion and how it has evolved over time.The influential decades in vintage fashionHighlighting the key fashion trends and styles of different decades that continue to inspire modern vintage fashion.The resurgence of vintage home decorExploring how vintage home decor has made a comeback and the impact it has on interior design.The impact of vintage lifestyle on the environmentExamining the sustainable aspects of living a vintage lifestyle and how it reduces environmental harm.The future of vintage: sustainability and innovationDiscussing the role of sustainability and innovation in shaping the future of vintage fashion.

Cruella’s fashion 6: The live-action movie (A)

So, we covered the novel, the animated movies, the television series... Time to begin the big one. The live-action movie of the 101 Dalmatians, the one that redefined the fashion of Cruella (and visibly had a big influence on the 2021 movie). Released in 1996 with Glenn Close playing the titular Cruella, all of the villainess' outfits were designed by the famous Anthony Powell, the British costume designer famous for his work on movies such as "Travels with my Aunt" (1972), "Death on the Nile" (1978), "Tess" (1979), "Pirates" (1986), "Hook" (1991) and even two of the Indiana Jones movies ("and the Temple of Doom" + "and the Last Crusade").

As a result, each of the costumes he gave Cruella was well-thought and carefully designed. This one is the first "business outfit" of Cruella (since she is now the head of a fashion house, and the first outfit we see Cruella in. Of course, fur is present, here black and white, to match the typical Cruella colors - the fur is also stripped, a nod to the fact that when the movie opens Cruella and her fashion house are obsessed with stripes. The fur here is a clever mix of three different fashion accessories: it begins as a fur muff, which is linked with a thick fur stole - said fur stole passes over her shoulder and then falls on the ground in a long cape-like piece of fur behind her back, dragging onto the ground. (Muff, stole, cape, these were all the fur accessories the original Cruella wore in the children novel). Note that the stole/cape ends up with several black furry tails attached to it, as a nod to the decorative tails on Cruella's iconic fur coat.

Once the fur is removed, alongside the hat (you probably noticed in the previous picture the black hat with a small veil, an elegant, old-fashioned but also slightly funeral look), we can better appreciate the outfit itself. Typical female busines suit, with a skirt and a jacket, once again following the white and black color scheme. If you look close, you will notice that the pattern here is a set of pinstripes made out of sequin - this is the "girly" side of Cruella, who still enjoys everything that shines and glitters (and thus, a lot of sequin). Cruella wears high heels of course - it was part of the "molding" of the silhouette. To fit with the tall and thin body of Cruella, Glenn Close not only had to wear high heels all the time but also a tight corset to slim down her waist. Cruella also wears gloves, just like the animated character - except here the gloves keep changing to match the outfit. All of Cruella's gloves however share one characteristic: they have fake nails on top of the fingers. This was an idea of Anthony Powell, which of course made Cruella's hands look more like claws and as a result gave her a more witchy/demonic look. Glenn Close explained herself that the fact Cruella always wears gloves, covering clothes and shows rarely much of her skin gives her outfits the feeling of an "armor". It strengthens her natural toughness and coldness, because if she exposed too much of her skin or limbs it would make her seem vulnerable. Note that in this particular outfit, Cruella has pockets made out of what seems to be big animal fangs - nothing goes to waste!

This is the second business outfit we see Cruella in, when she contacts Mr. Skinner from her office to tell him to kill the puppies, since the police is getting on their tracks. Here we have a full dress, again in the black and white color palette - though here the pattern is rather "fang-like". We can also admire Cruella's love for jewelry: be it the fang/claw-like brooch, her earrings or the high necklace of black and white perls. Cruella is rich and vain, and thus has a wide array of jewels - but jewels designe to look quite "vicious" (more about that later). You might have noticed that the two business suits have a common point: the pointy shoulder pads. Not only do they give Cruella a more impressive silhouette, and thus reinforce the "armor" feeling of her business outfits, but they were also specifically designed to look like horns - again, reinforcing the devil imagery of Cruella. As for the fur, we have yet again a fascinating mix of fashion accessories, since this is a fur cape/cloak acting and worn as a fur stole (or you could say that it is one very extravagant and big fur stole - Cruella loves things larger than life). Note that the inside of the piece is bright red, a nod to the bright red inside of Cruella's original coat. The concept art of the costume explains that the fur of the stole isn't actually regular leopard, but snow leopard, and adds that the long black fur on the borders is actually monkey fur. In the movie, Cruella was more than just a fur-obsessed woman: they turned her into a true "ecological terrorist" by having her wear (and search) for the fur of endangered species and rare animals. In terms of analysis, it is also quite fascinating to note that she is wearing spots again. In the beginning of the movie, Cruella is entirely obsessed with stripes - and thus her first outfits are mostly respecting this pattern. However, as she becomes and more obsessed with spots she changes this - for example here returning to leopard spots. (She even mentionned in the beginning of the movie that she did "leopard spots" in the 1980s).

After the business outfits of Cruella, we dig into her home outfits, the ones she wears inside Hell Hall (her personal mansion). This is the first of the two we see, a morning and inside dress she wears the day she discovers Anita is getting married. It is also the outfit she wears when Horace and Jasper bring her the pelt of the albino tiger - definitively setting Cruella as more than an exigent, brutal, excentric and sinister boss, but as a legitimate threat, the head of a small criminal group delving into illegal activities to satisfy her mad obsession for fur. As you can see, we have no fur here - though the sheets of her bed are indeed fur, in a nod to the original children book where Cruella sleeps in mink sheets. The dress is rather made of black leather, with the floor-long sleeves, the bottom of the dress and the wide collar being an ensemble of white and black feathers. As we mentionned before, the movie wanted to push Cruella beyond her obsession for fur, by making her a threat to all animal life on Earth - thus here, we see she also has usual clothes made of leather and feathers. I'll take a moment to comment on the hairdos of Cruella - not only were they created to bring in mind the "Gorgon" look Cruella had in the animated Disney movie, but they also tried to shape it like an "artistic storm", a deconstructed but carefully made hairdo, again mixing the chaos and order, black and white, representing the inner dangerosity of this ferocious and violent being shaped in the elegant and beautiful shape of a rich fashion woman.

This is the second "inside outfit" of Cruella, an evening gown she wore as she was receiving Mr. Skinner the day they kidnapped - well dognapped - the last puppies.   We see again here a good amount of feathers, forming the collar and the base of the dress, however the dress itself is not made of leather but rather of scales, more precisely snake and alligator scales. Thus we conclude the full palette of animal materials. The snake theme continues in her jewelery - not only is her necklace shaped like a serpent, but also her long bracelet - that continues on her hand and ends in a ring, is also shape like a snake. Maybe you can see it, but the end of the snake-bracelet, the "head" of the jewelled beast, on her finger, is actually a fang. Of course, the snake symbolic is very obvious. A poisonous predator, beautiful but deadly, associated once more with witches and the devil. (And of course the hairdos of Cruella also evoke the Gorgon myth, yet another snake theme)

The Bullshit Industry That Is Women’s Clothing

We’re gonna have a little talk, friends.  We’re gonna have a talk about the state of women’s clothing and how much it sucks.

I’m talking off-the-rack clothing aimed at adult, working women.  Your Ann Taylors.  Your J.Crews.  Your Banana Fucking Republics. The Nordstroms of the world. You know, the companies that are trying to get us to buy their most recent monstrosity of polyblended horror and the subject of plenty of thinkpieces, this one included.  “Are millennials killing the clothing industry?”  Yes, because you deserve to die, but also now we’re naked so can we please strike a plea bargain?

Before any of you get your panties in a twist, I’m counting stay at home moms as working women, because domestic labor is work, childcare is work, and juggling logistics is work.  If you can outsource it and the person who is doing it would reasonably expect to get paid, it’s work -- so don’t tell me being a SAHM isn’t work just because nobody’s paying her to do the job of a nanny, line cook, housekeeper, administrative assistant, executive director, coach, motivational speaker, teacher, or community organizer.  And also, no SAHM should have to resort to the MLM hell that is LueLaRoe in order to clothe her body.  Put the valentine heart printed butter leggings down, Karen.

So, working women, clothing ourselves is hard.  It has gotten worse over the past two decades.  Let us break this shit down:

Declining quality.  Don’t gaslight women over 30 and tell us that the decline in quality is all in our heads and that our expectations have increased as we’ve gotten older and more critical or educated.  A lot of us still have our blazers from J.Crew that we bought in 2007 -- at least I do.  I saved them because they’re gorgeous and sentimental, and now I save them as a physical reminder that clothing currently available to me as a retail consumer has sharply decreased in quality.  

Fit issues.  Between the unreasonably sloppy, inconsistent sizing (sometimes between two of the exact same garments), bizarre proportions, limitations on size ranges, and a seemingly universal refusal to cut garments for women larger than a B cup, women’s clothing fits horribly.  The solution to this problem seems to be to sew everything in stretchy, cheap materials that are clingy, unflattering, and translucent, which translates to...

...Awful styles.  Since the solution to lazy fit is stretch, the industry makes a lot of clothing styles that are not suitable for most women’s daily lives because they’re too cheap to use decent fabric in making clothing to account for the fact that they’re too cheap to invest in fit and quality construction.  Oh, you can’t wear a cold-shoulder top and a pair of stretchy black leggings to your corporate job?  Too fucking bad, that’s what’s in stock right now.  If we call it “Athleisure,” it’s all good!  And if you look shitty in it, it’s because you’re not athletic enough to be wearing it.

It’s funny how when women abandoned the corset, it was liberating -- until style started demanding that women become their own corsets.  No lumps or bumps or bulges allowed, but unless you want to wear Spanx (read: a girdle), you better diet yourself down to a flawlessly smooth size 2 if you don’t want to look horrible in a simple tshirt.

Sure, good style is available to those who have enough social or economic capital to access it -- and by social capital, I am including people who are thin.

The state of plus-sized fashion has always been appalling, but as the country tumbles into greater income inequality, the concentration of jobs paying a living wage into traffic-jammed cities with a lack of reasonably affordable or accessibly housing, the masses are not going to be getting thinner.  The workday has been getting longer, either by extending hours or by making it very clear that people who leave before 6 are slackers, or by tethering us to email in the spirit of “leaning in.”  Sorry, when you spend 1-3 hours/day commuting to your soul-sucking job that doesn’t pay enough to afford help to outsource all of the shit you have to do on weekends in order to function as an adult, the “obesity epidemic” is not going to end.  How about we call a spade a spade: the “obesity epidemic” is a side-effect of the confluence of income inequality and late-stage capitalism.  “Calories in, calories out, it’s so simple!” say people who are able to prioritize and afford to be thin, and are rewarded in kind with clothing that at least isn’t punishingly ugly or uncomfortable.

Let’s talk about uncomfortable clothing: there’s a lot of it when you get out of the stretchy-spandex land masking the laziness of corporate clothing behemoths behind 2% spandex in an already forgiving knit.  Wovens, friends, let’s snark on wovens.  Wovens are the fabrics that are stiffer -- think jeans without spandex, chinos without spandex, button down shirts without spandex, your wool coat without spandex, etc.  

Believe it or not, young people, most of these items didn’t stretch 10-15 years ago, or if they did it was a tiny amount -- enough so that you could comfortably drive a car while still wearing a garment that was purposefully cut and constructed so that it would lay close to the body.  Instead of spandex, clothing was constructed with more ease -- more space, looser in areas where a normal human body needs space to move.  And nobody looked shitty, because the clothing was made so that the structure of the garment kept it from looking like a sack of potatoes; that structure comes from quality fit, construction, and materials.  

And of course, companies will retort that if they did anything the way they did 10-15 years ago, costs would skyrocket!  Materials are expensive and skilled labor isn’t cheap, especially if paid a living wage in a country with labor regulations to protect workers!  To which I say: bullshit.  Costs won’t skyrocket unless you expect customers to pad the pockets of your shareholders and executives to make up for increased production costs that narrow the profit margin.  Essentially, you want the same profit margin that was established and became the norm when you switched to shitty quality while raising prices.

The problem is really of your own doing, Mr. Mall Fashion Executive Dude; you trained your customers to expect good quality clothing for decades, rested on your laurels while increasing your profit margins by cutting production costs, got everyone on the corporate end used to booming profits based on this giant margin, and then got confused when shit went south.  You went for short-term profits, banking on the reputation of your brand to carry the company through a quality control nosedive.  And now we’re rubbing your face in it.

So here’s some advice to the corporate powers that be: 

Make some fucking decent clothing.

Make the entire line in a wide range of sizes, 00-24+ with no differentiation between “plus” and “misses.”  

Give women’s clothing the attention, quality, consistency, and detail of men’s items.

Stop putting random shit on your clothing.  I want a goddamn tshirt without a sequin, weird design, picture of a bird, a saying, etc.

Don’t “bring back a classic” and mark it up 200%.  Take a hint: we all still have that item from 2003, don’t think we won’t compare them and put the videos taking you down for both an outrageous markup and a comparatively mediocre product.  Looking at you, Lululemon’s “full on Luon” (i.e. regular luon from a few years prior with a new name and higher price).  Looking at you, J.Crew icon trench from 2003 (i.e. the old trench marked up higher than it was before but with a shittier fit and cheaper materials).  

If your wovens look like shit on the average American woman, that means you need to hire people who know how to design a decent garment, use better materials, and learn about ease, drape, and tailoring.  

If your pants don’t fit women with hourglass figures, the problem is your pants.

And finally:  Listen to the women screaming at you on Instagram every time you roll out a crappy collaboration.  What do they want?  Natural fibers, better fit, a size range that is inclusive and reflects the general public without arbitrary cutoffs, good design, cohesive collections, solid basics, durability, functional pockets that can hold a fucking iphone, classic lines, and comfort.  

If that is too much of an order, maybe get the fuck out of the industry that makes clothing for women, because there are actually companies that have demonstrated that it is possible to do it right:  MM LaFleur (pricey, but excellent), Boden, Land’s End, etc. are all examples of companies that manage not to completely screw the pooch on selling clothing to women.  Hell, I’ll even give you Eileen Fisher.  Give me some linen and a functional pocket, Ms. Fisher, I’ll gladly look like a sexless therapist who moonlights at an art gallery.

But seriously, fuck right off with this cold-shoulder, poly-blend, lazy bullshit.

Happy International Womens Day! "Her / Self II: This Woman" opens tonight @wamsoc in #yeg, from 6-9pm, featuring portraiture by @idbohemia @kelseynovartstudio @moniquesart @glenysswitzer and @catlanding. The exhibition runs from March 8 to April 12. Women’s Art Museum of Canada Musée d’art de la femmes du Canada 200, 8627 - 91 Street (@lacitefrancoyeg) Edmonton, Alberta T6C 3N1 Title: Chanelta Shanaynay Media: Digital Inkjet Print on Ilford Galerie Prestige Smooth Fine Art Matte Paper Size: 20" wide x 24" tall Date: 2018 "Chanelta Shanaynay" was conceived in 2009 and inspired by Proposition 8 (a California ballot proposition created with the intent to ban same-sex marriage in the United States). I became aware of Prop 8 while researching political and society portrait painting, and decided to do LGBTQ2S+ portraits in the Grand Manner style. Many women understand the financial, physical and personal sacrifices drag artists make to transform into their feminine personae. Preparation involves hours in makeup and hair, and bodies are tucked, padded, lifted and corseted to achieve the desired shape. Performing requires hundreds of hours honing their craft, and major investments in costumes, jewellery, wigs, and footwear, with no guarantee of financial return. Drag queens also risk discrimination and higher rates of violence from the broader public and within their community. Edmontonians know Chanelta from Pride, Evolution Wonderlounge, and the Fringe hit "Guys In Disguise 2: The Sequin". A trained singer and dancer, she is admired for her tributes to Beyoncé and Tina Turner, themselves artists and feminist icons. I met Chanelta's alter ego “J.M.” at a downtown home furnishings store. We worked together for 3 years, and he was a key figure in my early development as a professional artist and designer. #internationalwomensday #feminism #feminist #feministart #lgbt #lovewins #pride #queer #igyeg #yegevents #yegarts #yegbuzz #yegpride #yegartist #yegphotography #portrait #canadiancreatives #canadianart #madeincanada #contemporaryart #nothingisordinary #creativityfound #artistsoninstagram #art #artoftheday #woman #women #womanartist #womenempowerment (at Edmonton, Alberta) https://www.instagram.com/p/BuxEUupAUK9/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=15ly5li7un1h5

When it comes to ‘80s fashion, we have a (surprising)...

When it comes to ‘80s fashion, we have a (surprising) amount to be thankful for. While the decade hasn’t influenced our wardrobes for a long time, in recent months, we’ve come to the realization that all the most current trends today are courtesy of the '80s. And if you’re sitting there with a raised eyebrow, it’s worth noting that at the end of last year, the trend had seen an 87% increase on Pinterest .

Now, if you’re not too familiar with the nuances of this era, there are a few standout looks we’re sure you’ll recognize: big shoulders, white jeans, underwear as outerwear and oversize jewelry. It was the decade of the power dresser but also of punks. It gave us Madonna, Tina Turner, and Cher , plus numerous other superstars whose sense of style influences many in 2019.

Style Notes: This is classic '80s Madonna, but the underwear/bodysuit look is bang on the money for now. You can forgo the pearls; just wear yours with some high-waisted jeans for a night out. Style Notes: As if we needed any more proof that Cher is the ultimate style queen, here was the star doing the naked dress before everyone was doing it at the Met Gala (and every other award show going). Style Notes: Brooke Shields was America’s number one sweetheart back in the '80s, and here she proves exactly why with those girl-next-door looks. Layering that checked jacket over a shirt and a turtleneck is exactly the kind of street style we saw during last fashion week. Style Notes: The Jenner/Kardashian clan has already got this look down—and there are sheer dresses all over the spring runways. But the originator of this style? Another Kim. Kim Basinger. Style Notes: Okay, so the term “structured shoulders” is just another way for us to say “shoulder pads” and attempt to not freak you out, but we’ve seen a real trend toward this look. Shout-out to Courteney Cox for wearing this on the red carpet pre–Monica Gellar days. Style Notes: Avid readers of this site will know that we’ve already tried out this corset-type look. And while Kim Kardashian West has been a major factor as to why it’s gotten popular again, we can’t deny that Cyndi Lauper may have started the trend. Also: those zebra shoes. Style Notes: Joan Collins is so incredible in this snap. Is there anything we don’t love about it? Answer: No. The jacket, the simple black top, the red lippie… However, it’s the gobstopper necklace our magpie eyes focus on. Joan knows the power incredible jewelry has in pulling together an outfit. Style Notes: There were so many incredible outfits we could have included from Princess Diana, but we settled on this “country casual” one. The heritage check on her jacket and matching skirt are classic attire. Not only has this Harrington-style jacket made a comeback in hipster circles, but we’re also seeing plaid coats everywhere. Coincidence? We think not. Style Notes: Want to know the real way to update your outfit to be 2018-ready? Just add socks à la Meg Ryan. Yes. Really. Style Notes: Grace Jones will never be anything less than fierce, but this incredible look has been seared into our minds. Who wouldn’t want to look so focused in a razor-sharp piece of tailoring? (Purple makeup optional, of course.) Style Notes: When Kylie Minogue went through her bad-girl stage, she wore a lot of high-shine minidresses like this. Get inspired by investing in 2018’s version with a great miniskirt (they’re selling out everywhere right now). Style Notes: We have some serious love for high-waisted jeans. Tina Turner pulls this look off with aplomb, and we have to agree: Bauble earrings and a white vest are great accessories. Style Notes: Well, how else do you expect to show off your socks? Thanks to Demi Moore for inspiring us all those years ago.  Style Notes: Debbie Harry has brought us many a trend. But during the '80s, we got to see her in chic little black dresses, which she accessorized a flash of low denier at most times. And in case you didn’t know, that kind of hosiery is news again. Style Notes: We’ve seen this trend start to appear on trousers, from old-school joggers to jeans with shiny gold buttons, as well as on the classic Balmain blazers that remain forever popular. Jerry Hall’s gold buttons down her nautical blazer and accessorized with gold bracelets made for the ultimate '80s power look.  Style Notes: True, Goldie Hawn didn’t invent the off-the-shoulder style, but she knew how to do it right.  Style Notes: Joan Jett will never be anything less than cool. Her punk-inspired ensembles often involved oversize jackets and skintight trousers. While leggings have definitely come on a bit since then, take inspo from this look and pair your leggings with a leather jacket this weekend. Style Notes: Things tended to be pretty oversize during the '80s, and no other item was as exaggerated than the blazer. This is totally Balenciaga, no?  Style Notes: When aren’t sequins a great idea? As seen on Diana Ross, this look is making us wish the festive season was already here.  Style Notes: Yes, the '70s might have been the era for bodysuits, but with the '80s came extra bits like tassels.  Style Notes: The vinyl coat trend has been everywhere in 2018. But it was in the '80s when one of the original supermodels, Cindy Crawford, made it look iconic.  Style Notes: Model Pat Cleveland knew how to make a graphic tee look chic. It’s still one of our favorite outfits for the weekend. Style Notes: Susan Sarandon is just one of the reasons we love Alessandro Michele’s oversize Gucci sunglasses. Style Notes: Before Sex and the City, SJP was already someone who liked to push the fashion boundaries.  Style Notes: Geek-chic glasses might be commonplace now, but it was during the '80s that they really took off. While we might all be into metal frames right now, we predict that colored frames, as seen here on Jane Fonda, will be making a comeback.  Daryl Hannah’s got all the accessories a decent '80s look should have, but you’ll notice time and again that gloves (especially with layered jewelry) are key for this decade. Sarah Ferguson and Diana, Princess of Wales, were both particularly keen on skirt suits for their more formal events in the '80s. The look translated quickly into offices and parties, especially in this ultra-matchy form. Jane Fonda started it in the 1970s, but by the time the 1980s arrived, Spandex leggings, leotards, and legwarmers were commonplace. Call them MC Hammer pants or harem pants, but never forget that drop-crotch trousers (the more draped, the better) were a key look in the '80s. Here’s Donna Summer doing them justice. Polka dots are back again, but one of the most current-looking ways they were worn in the '80s was thanks to singer Sade and this cool shirt.

source https://gothify1.tumblr.com/post/182752474760

Awesome Wedding Dress for Inverted Triangle

Awesome Wedding Dress for Inverted Triangle

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A Century of Fashion

This week we had the incredibly opportunity to go to the Fashion Institute of Technology to hear one of the museum curators speak about the history of fashion. Ellen, the curator selected garments from the past 100 years that represent the fashion of that time. We sat around a white table that was covered with padded fabric so the clothing pieces were properly placed on the surface. 

She started off of the presentation by explaining the corsets were an essential part of women’s fashion in the early 1900′s. Corsets were worn under dresses to give the woman’s body shape, however they were very restricting. She then showed us a flapper dress from the twenties that was heavily embellished with sequins which was a staple at the time. The dresses were made a little fuller at the bottom, so that when women danced the Charleston the dresses moved with them. 

Next up she talked about the forties and the importance of Dior’s New Look. The New Look was a new silhouette created to enhance the figure of woman. There were bigger skirts but a tight jacket that enhanced the waist of wearers. The forties was marked by restrictions from the war the required designers to think outside of the box when creating garments. She showed us a dress from the sixties which fit perfectly with the mod theme of the time. The bright colors and simple silhouette reflects twiggy, an iconic figure from the 60′s.

Overall, I have to say this was an extremely interesting study tour. Getting to see garments up close that represent important moments in fashion history was so exciting and a real treat. I appreciated the depth of knowledge Ellen has to share with us and I think this is very valuable information. Hearing her speak about these garments and designers me the value of knowing the past to understand the present!

Hope you enjoyed this weeks blog, see you soon!

xoxo,

Gabrielle 

  FASHION CREDITS: LADY GAGA BY SEBASTIAN FAENA

V Magazine is known to be one of Lady Gaga’s biggest supporters during her career since her breakout. She landed her first spread back in November 2009 for their “Beauty Issue” shot by Sebastian Faena on a beach in Malibu on May 7th.

Gaga was styled by Nicola Formichetti for this one. Peter Savic did the hair, Joanne Gair the glam using M·A·C Cosmetics and Naja Rickette the manicure using Minx.

The first look of this photoshoot comes from Balmain’s Spring/Summer 2009 collection when Christophe Decarnin was still the creative director.

It’s a sequinned striped off-shoulder ruffle gown in different hues of blue which Nicola accented with a blue fringed shoulder piece and bangles.

These PVC and black leather pumps with sculpted lucite heel are from Alexander Wang’s Fall/Winter 2009 collection which you’ll see more of later.

This is a fun look. Gaga is rocking a white lace dress with blue shoulder pads and crystals, frontal ring zipper, round neck and long sleeves from Givenchy’s Fall/Winter 2009 collection.

The look was accessorized with a vintage pearl-embellished Victorian neck ruff rented from Palace Costume and a white hat designed by Patricia Field.

In these photos Gaga is rocking  a sand organic canvas structured corset with gold lamé and cropped top with cut-outs, both from Richard Nicoll’s Fall/Winter 2009 collection, he teamed up with Linder Sterling for.

Both for those of you who don’t know the collection, and the ones who remember it very well but want to see it again, visit Vogue (yes, yes, me and the magnifying glass again…).

This is one of my most favorite Richard’s collections ever.

Body loving shapes in a collection inspired by lingerie. Powder pinks, nudes, creams and greys. Glamorous metallics.

Female body celebration. 50s sassy pin-up meets super fierce futuristic princess. Both are naturally beautiful. Fragile. And vulnerable.

Her bespoke gold rose corsage is from SOTU Productions and the iconic orbit headpiece from Nasir Mazhar’s Spring/Summer 2009 debut collection. The headpiece was built by jeweler and designer Matthew Mackeson.

This look was completed with two wave bangles in silver and gold from Balenciaga’s Fall/Winter 2009 collection.

Here Gaga relaxes by the beach in a black leather bodysuit with zipper detailing from Bess NYC Fall/Winter 2009 collection with a collar and jacket from American Vintage.

Next up Gaga is wearing a harness collar bra from DeMask with a deconstructed cut-out oversized button-up shirt from Alexander Wang’s Fall/Winter 2009 collection.

In the darker, blurrier photo above she’s also holding a vintage Gareth Pugh jacket.

And finally Gaga is wearing nothing but a pair of Ray-Ban’s classic Clubmaster shades in black with golden lower metal frame.