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seamsterslocal · 11 months

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summer binder picture tutorial

this is the third binder ive made for myself recently and the first one i’m writing up. it’s designed to do a few things: 1) allow me to put it on by myself without dislocating my shoulders 2) allow me to breathe well enough to partake in normal activity 3) be cool enough to wear throughout a muggy 90-100F summer 4) not constrict my ribs in a way that aggravates my lack of connective tissue and causes intense pain.

this has become necessary even though i had top surgery many years ago, because when i had it i was extremely skinny and since then i’ve increased in size by about 50%. this has been really fucking good for my health in every single way* except that when my chest is squishy or moves at all it’s So Goddamn Triggering for me. but also since ive had top surgery ive developed and/or been made away of a plethora of chronic conditions that make every single commercially available binding option medically impossible. unbound, my chest is pretty much what you’d expect for a chubby cis guy but venturing out into the world in just a tshirt no longer works for me

*anyone who badmouths weight gain or fat bodies in the notes WILL be blocked

under the cut are a bunch of process pictures and explanations of what they all mean:

first i’ll give you a look at the pieces and measurements:

most of the seams are sewn in this picture and one half is turned inside out, allowing you to see both the finished dimensions (right) and the placement of the fusible horsehair canvas that gives this lil scrap of linen any structure at all (left)

to get your chest measurement, you’re gonna have to do some math:

first measure above and below what you want to bind. average these numbers. mine are something like 32 and 34, which average to 33. subtract a few inches--this is to allow the air movement between the laces at center front and back, critical in the summertime. i deleted 3 inches bc i like that number but you can go bigger if you want. the more inches you subtract here, the more youll be able to ratchet all your chest material down later, but at the same time you need to leave enough fabric for a sturdy garment. let’s say a range of 2-6 inches/5-15cm. by taking your measurements this way, you’re essentially measuring the chest you would like to have. that + the horsehair canvas work together to compress any squishy tissue/force anything that doesnt compress up and to the outside (basically into the armpit/lower shoulder--the chest might stick out but it will give a very puffed chest captain america pectoral silhouette)

you can also see how ive clipped my curves and pre-drilled my lacing holes. i used the marlin spike on my knife to open up the holes on the interfacing side, mainly as a way of marking them. this worked well bc the interfacing’s glue kept the linen from raveling

this is the same stage but looking at the non-interfaced grey linen/cotton blend (the black is some 100% linen from my cabbage stash). you can see ive broken the solar-plexus-to-back measurement up into a bunch of pieces to save on fabric but that’s not necessary. my original pattern was just two pieces (front and back) and chopping the straps into thirds on both sides was aesthetic

in the following picture you can really see how this is really just overgrown regency stays:

i thought about doing side lacing but didn’t think that would be comfortable for me. on the front, the side seam allowance was pressed inwards before turning to create a finished looking slot. on the back the side seam is left unfinished with an extra wide seam allowance, and is inserted into that slot.

here’s a closeup on it pinned in place (you can adjust the angle of the side seam and the fit during this pinning stage):

that side seam was just topstitched in place once i had the fit how i liked it, and the armhole was reinforced with more topstitching

alright, time for eyelets: first, you can see how well the marking worked:

next, two rows of basted eyelets (left), one row of eyelets sewn with a doubled and waxed cotton thread (center right), and one row of eyelets opened and stainless steel rings placed (right).

next time i’m going to mark the eyelets same as i did above, but do this step differently--i’ll mark and baste the steel rings in place BEFORE widening the eyelets. this is bc i had a lot of problems keeping the eyelets on center

eyelets half done on this one! on the left are eyelets sewn with doubled and waxed cotton thread and on the right eyelets sewn with quadrupled and waxed thread. the center is basting again. i was able to force the holes back in line while sewing the eyelets but it was kinda annoying. adding a second picture that doesnt have great focus but hopefully shows how that process worked and shows the spike clearly

i ended up using this white cotton thread because it’s stronger than my black cotton thread (which the rest of it is sewn with). [eta: after this was first posted, i pressed the whole thing heavily, which effectively de-waxed the thread, and i dyed the whole thing a medium charcoal grey, the thread blends in perfectly on the lighter side and isn’t such a sore thumb on the darker side]

bonus: the piecing layout for that little piece of strap. the whole light gray half of the binder was made from 1/2 of one of the legs i cut off some linen suit pants to make slutty camping shorts last year and i really really didn’t want to break into any of the other three halves for this garment--i have Plans for it

overall the fit of this is incredible. it DOESNT hurt my ribs which every zip-up garment ive been able to find (and it is difficult) does due to really thick elastic at the base. it doesnt aggravate my sensory issues with the synthetic fibers that every commercial option is made of. i can walk up a hill or stairs, or go to pt, without getting too out of breath. i can eat with it tight, or loosen the front easily and without taking it off to make eating easier and less nausea-inducing. it is reversible!

best of all the lacing at the back gives the garment enough movement for me to get it on without dislocating, and the interfacing and steel rings give it structure once it’s on. the shaping comes only from fusible horsehair linen canvas and stainless steel rings like youd use for chainmail, there’s no boning at all, which makes it very quick to sew (except the eyelets, but metal grommets would be sturdy and quick provided theyre of good quality)

there’s a small amount of gaping on the outside of the shoulder strap, which i plan on fixing with a tiny tiny dart in the armpit, i want to add pockets to tuck the laces into, and i need a better lace for the back, but it’s completely wearable in time for the 90 weather next week which is all i wanted. i’ll do a reblog when it’s perfectly finished with an update on the fit but for now it is done enough

the little ridge where it doesnt lay flat against the shoulder is most visible with just a single t shirt over it. with a flannel or a sweater, it disappears, and by itself, it’s hidden in movement

eta: after dyeing this, i relaced it a bit looser in the back and that gape mainly disappeared. ive decided to leave it in instead of smoothing it with a dart because the loose fabric gives space for my chest to expand when breathing and shapes my silhouette in a way that emphasizes my shoulders

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bebemoon · 8 months

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retrofete rtw sring 2o24 .

#retrofete #details #corset #lacing #my edit #nyfw

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introspect-la · 6 months

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ANN DEMEULEMEESTER FW11 BOOTS

#ann demeulemeester #fashion #FW11 #AW11 #2011 #Boots #leather boots #Lacing #tight lacing #antwerp six

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play-my-game · 2 months

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#No bra #Lacing #Halter neck #Outdoor outfit

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sybersphinx · 12 days

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( here )

#clothing #lacing

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cheapieclassic · 2 years

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🎃🖤black and orange🖤🎃

Knocked out this cute little linen basque yesterday evening, I've done so much halloween sewing this summer :")

🎃It was my first time flat lining my fabric and omg what a game changer - this piece came together SO FAST! The thick calico under the linen gives it a lovely feel and structure.

🎃Self draft princess seam basque pattern made up in linen (skirt flip), grosgrain ribbon and calico from the thrift shop.

🎃Styled with my rust coloured princess seam dress of the same pattern, made up from a thrift shop cotton sheet.

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jewellery-box · 1 year

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lacemadeofficial and olgamurch via Instagram

#blue tag #corset #lacing

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badassindistress · 1 year

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I'm in the process of figuring our my lacing

#i had the perfect ribbon a cousin gave me #i was so scared to put in the lacing holes #so much work has gone in the layers of this i didn't want to ruin it #a talia original #talia's adventures in dressmaking #excerpts from my life #sewing #sewing progress #lacing #sewing aesthetic #birthday ballgown

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seamsterslocal · 11 months

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made this corset many years ago as 1) a back brace bc my spine was high key dysfunctional 2) a wearable mockup for the flocked black denim corset i was planning. i dont have either corset anymore and i dont believe i have any pictures of the black one (shame it had a beautiful peacock brocade lining). both were designed to be flat chested corsets in whats normally called the overbust style. though here there is no bust to be gone over

this denim one is made to close at 24" --corsets, especially steel corsets like this, are usually designed to be worn with a gap at the back but for back support i wanted the steel right up against my spine--and is laced in the back with paracord*. at the time i made it, i could zip it closed in front without loosening the back at all. this corset wasn't designed to constrict or really even to shape at all, just to prop up my bones. i wore it every day for a couple years and it was the most comfortable thing i owned at the time

the main pictures here (the in focus ones) were taken more recently, just before i gave it away. obviously it no longer closes (this is a success story) but it still fits well. i could have tried closing it but my ribs dont appreciate constriction so i just documented it as is. i have included 2 old and blurry pictures at the end for an idea of how it fit at the time it was made. i still miss those purple jeans

*paracord is a not a great lacing material but i wasnt adjusting this guy ever. i did pull the core out at least which made it both flatter and more maneuverable. it has a lot of tooth (friction) so it doesnt slide well but it does work as a cheap lacing material if you dont mind haulin on it

#sewing #denim corset #corset #cotton #disability accommodations #physical #historical fashion #lacing #new build #pattern adjustment #piecing is contemporary too #steel #structured garment #wearable mockup #zipper #can you believe i couldn't walk or stand or sit upright without a metal brace for years and didn't even think i was disabled #thats growth dot gif

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jacketstrings · 1 year

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Postal Dude Stim Board | Do Not Delete Caption | DNI x - x - x | x - x | x - x - x

#stim board #character stim board #postal dude #leather #dog #animals #clothes #fabric #wax #ink #red #rain #lacing #cemetery #it has been for EVER since i made one of these.

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suitsyoumaam-blog · 1 year

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EnjoueCollectif, part 4

source: Instagram account

#gif animated #femininity #corset #gif #tightlacing #hourglass #cottagecore #lacing

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raph-stims · 1 year

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MIKEYDEEZ* BABEY [Mikeydeez* Babey] a Mikeydeez stimboard for anon!!! let me know if anything needs to be changed!

gif 1: a brown boot being laced up with the one hand holding both laces, hooking them up with each turn.

gif 2: cream being poured into coffee in the shape of wheat, with a heart on the top

gif 3: a feminine person kicking a pale mannequin head and torso

gif 4: a person in a brown outfit with large, brown fursuit paws with white fingertips and lighter brown, almost orange, paw pads. they are wiggling their fingers.

image: a screenshot of Hitmonlee kicking something offscreen from the original Pokémon anime edited to look like Mikeydeez from Saltydkdan's Friendlocke, season 2. he has red sunglasses and a blue cape with stars all over it.

gif 5: a person in a black shirt with large, brown fursuit paws with white fingertips and darker brown paw pads. they are clapping.

gif 6: a bald, masculine person in a black shirt kicking the cap off a glass bottle in slow motion.

gif 7: cream being poured into coffee in the shape of a heart

gif 8: a person lacing up black boots, about to tie them before the gif ends

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dresshistorynerd · 2 years

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Hi! Firstly I love your blog and all your research posts, I find them such good overviews on dress history topics I'm not familiar with. I was wondering if you had any information on lacing throughout history? Like when it was used on different kinds of clothing (not just corsets and similar) and what style of lacing would have been used. I know this is very specific so understandable if it can't be done. Thank you!

Thank you so much!! It really makes me happy to hear that people get use and enjoyment from my history ramblings! :D

This is an interesting question and it relates very closely with the history of supportive undergarments (which I am working a post about, but I'm still in research phase so it will be a while). I won't guarantee this will be exhaustive answer, there's probably some types of garments I don't know use lacing and some I miss and remember next week at the middle of the night. I'm focusing on women's clothing to narrow down the massive topic, but to be clear men's fashion utilized lacing too to create fashionable figures, including in men's corsetry. A fair warning, this post kinda blew out of proportion.

Lacing in Western Fashion History

So lacing is a closure method and pretty interesting one, because it has room for adjustments. If we think of other closure methods like buttons, zippers etc, you can't adjust them on the go. The obvious benefit is the ability loosen or tighten it with the changing body thorough day and between them and also fit it much more easily to another body. The other and perhaps much more significant benefit is that it can be used to tighten the bodice of a garment to be supportive for the bust, which has been it's primary usage across western fashion history.

Here's my little sketch about the most common historical lacing methods.

A - spiral lacing with symmetrical eyelets B - spiral lacing with asymmetrical eyelets C - ladder lacing D - standard lacing E - cross lacing.

There's some drawbacks to it too, since it's also slower than any other closure method. Spiral lacing though is the most simplest and quickest one, which is perhaps why it was so much used thorough history.

Bliaut

Before Middle Ages and mostly thorough early parts of it, a lot of closure methods weren't popularized around Europe. Pins and brooches were the go to method and they had pretty limited use. Tailoring hadn't been developed either so clothes were made of simple cuts and were loose so they would be able to get on and off.

A side note: There were some examples of fitted garments in ancient times but I don't know enough about them or how they were fitted.

Bliaut was a tunic type overdress used by all genders in the French influence area in early Middle Ages, from around 11th to 13th century, when it fell out of fashion. In 12th century for women it became the quintessential "medieval dress" with fitted bodice, often wide long sleeves and a girdle at waist. To be clear the bodice seemed to have been also fitted for men.

There's not really a lot of info on how exactly it was constructed and there has been a lot of debate around it, but it was fitted with lacing on the side. One of the most famous example depicting the 12th century bliaut is a statue in a wall of Angers Cathedral from circa 1200. It's very detailed example showing the lacing.

Tailoring still hadn't been developed yet, and it's theorized the bodice was rectangular, which is why the result wasn't smoothly fitted bodice but very wrinkled one. It's a little hard to make out, but it seems they used spiral lacing with symmetrical eyelets.

Soon after though bliaut went out of fashion in France influenced area and was replaced with much more loose styles till the 14th century.

Kirtle

Kirtle has many names, including cotte and cotehardie, which are sometimes used interchangeably, sometimes to refer to specific areas or periods, but I'll use only kirtle for ease. It also started as a loose garment for all genders. In 14th century tailoring was popularized and lacing made a comeback and so during the century kirtle became a formfitting supportive garment. Sometimes kirtle was closed with buttons, but that seems to be more popular for men's kirtles. Lacing or buttons were also used in sleeves to make them very form fitting too.

Here's an Italian painting from 1385-90. This style of kirtle with smooth front seemed to be popular around western Europe at the time. They either had lacing on side or back. I haven't seen a lot of paintings from the time where the lacing is shown, but it's probable they are using at least a lot of spiral lacing. Kirtle is also starting to become more of an undergarment as houppelande becomes fashionable as an overgarment at the end of the century.

15th century popular painting style is becoming more detailed, which is nice because they'll show the lacing. Front lacing in kirtle is popular, but you also see a lot of side lacing. Spiral lacing is still probably the most common style of lacing in paintings, but there's also cross lacing and ladder lacing, as in the painting below, which is from 1475-80.

At the time (and sometimes already in 14th century) lacing was also used to add detachable sleeves. It made it probably easier to use the kirtle as an undergarment too. In late 15th century Italy (and to some extent German speaking area too) they took this idea to it's logical endpoint and made elaborate sleeves with tons of lacing and the shift bulging under it. The below example is a detail from 1493-96 painting.

Bathhouse dress

Aside from kirtle there was another laced garment, often called the bathhouse dress. The example below is from 1389, but they appeared in art as late as 16th century. They are depicted pretty much exclusively in bathhouse context, so it's possible it was a garment solely for bathhouse use. They are seen specifically in Central European art and most famously in Bohemian art, but also Austrian and High German. I have seen suggestions too that it was used as supportive shift too, and it's possible it was a supportive garment specific to that area. There were many different cuts of this type of dress, but the lacing seems to be either at the frond or the side.

Boned bodices and pair of bodies

In earlier centuries kirtle was sometimes interlined with heavier fabric, but in 16th century it became very structured. They used heavy stiffened fabrics and increasingly towards the end of the century a lot of boning too. Pair of bodies as a separate garment from a supportive bodice was also born.

During Renaissance the variety of styles of clothing gets really out of hand. Kirtle would stay in working class use as far as 17th century, but upper classes transition towards more elaborate dresses that are far removed from the kirtle. During the latter half of 17th century working class would start to use separate pair of bodies and petticoats, before bodies would transition into stays around 1680s. Here's an example of a boned working class kirtle from 1626 with lacing on back side.

Every gown would utilize lacing, but often it wouldn't be seen in fashionable clothing. It could be very subtly done or hidden with a stomacher. Stomachers became increasingly popular towards the end of the century. There was still some places where visible lacing was fashionable for upper classes too like Italy (Venice specifically), Germany and Low Countries. And absolutely all kinds of lacing was used.

In Venice particularly there was a very specific style of boned bodices with ladder lacing on the front like in this example from mid 16th century.

In the German speaking area, there was a very much not boned style where a very open bodice was laced in the front most often with spiral lacing, but I've seen examples of ladder lacing too. The example is from circa 1535.

When Baroque hits through in 17th century, fashion becomes more universal and less all over the place like it was in the previous century, but the fundamentals stay the same. Pair of bodies or heavily boned bodices were used and the closure method for these was very much still lacing. For pair of bodies, which could be used as outergarments outside of the formal occasions of upper class, it was usually on display, for bodices the lacing was usually hidden in the back, like in this example from 1660s. Sleeves could be often attached to bodies with lacing when used as outer garments.

The image limit is again the bane of my existence, so I'll continue in a reblog.

#answers #fashion history #historical fashion #fashion #history #historical clothing #historical dress #pair of bodies #undergarments #historical undergarments #lingerie #historical lingerie #lacing #medieval fashion #renaissance fashion #baroque fashion

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an-experienced-gentleman · 1 year

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Your partner lacing up the corset.

Six Sexy Words

#six sexy words #ssw #partner #lacing #corset

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introspect-la · 6 months

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YOHJI YAMAMOTO FW15 TWISTED LACE COMBAT BOOTS

#yohji yamamoto #FW15 #AW15 #2015 #Tight Lacing #Black Boots #boots #fashion #japanese fashion #combat boots #Lacing

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broadcastbabe · 6 months

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My sole function in their household was as a piece of art to be unveiled whenever they engage in sexual congress. The vision is part distraction, part impetus and total appreciation. Originally, I was hired as the wife’s secretary to take care of her business tasks as an art dealer. My efficiency and demeanor became indispensable in dealing with clients and their demands, freeing her to spend more time wooing her husband. She was forthright with me about their issues in the bedroom and she appreciated my sympathetic ear. We became close, closer than I could have imagined. She often found solace in my comforting embrace, soon filling the void in her love life with escalating affection… on the verge of intimacy. Her husband had his eye on me too. He found the burgeoning friendship a turn-on and encouraged the long hours we spent together. I suspect he watched for his own thrill-induced reasons. His glancing touches lingered longer as time went by. She and I never consummated any sort of union, but she reported the quality of their boudoir intimacy flowered when I crept into their pillow talk. To that end, I was encouraged to wear more revealing clothes… low cut dresses, shorter and tighter skirts and scanty intimates that might be glimpsed when I bent low to retrieve any of his ‘dropped’ items. I embraced all my increasing duties and welcomed the distant admiration for my own fantasies. The eventual invitation to be present while they made love proved a boon to those scenarios in my mind and to their culminating efforts. The costuming came next and although I was never touched, I was often undressed by them both as another flavor of foreplay. It was not uncommon to be left completely naked in heels (for his kink) while I witnessed ‘my gasoline’ being added to their fire.

By their consensus, my modest garb is furnished for the annual Colonial Days celebration. The cinched corseted dress with its intricate lacing will require as much dedicated time to remove as it does to assemble. She graciously offers her services for that task and during the afternoon of closeness, we find ourselves teasing that edge of intimacy we had never ventured over. Her first kiss is in chaste appreciation for my selfless contribution to their love life. The second is solely for her… and me, as a declaration of her desire. We break apart when the implications seep in, past the arousal. She steps away with apologies, leaving the door ajar as she leaves the room. Her husband happens by, though he likely witnessed this faux transgression, and is looking for a balancing reciprocation. Without hesitation, he slips a hand through the open back seam to fondle and grasp my pliable ass, to ‘verify’ my pantiless state. Satisfied, he grazes his lips across my décolleté before going to find his wife. They are both fully costumed, so when they call for my presence in the bedroom to witness a quickie before the afternoon parade, only their essentials are bared for the gymnastics before the consummation. He is taking her from behind in the most joyous of unions. She coyly beckons me closer for another kiss, while he watches with an intensity that seems to fuel his deeper thrusts. Our usual scenario has now escalated radically… and I find myself quite exhilarated by the potential and inevitability of this sudden right turn on a previously red light. He suggests I sit within reach, with my skirts open for their inspection of my backside. I oblige and smile to myself as they both pluck at the lacing while they continue to rhythmically indulge themselves. This promises to be a momentous cumming for us all and I wonder if the afternoon’s festivities… won’t include the parade.

#lacing

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