For me the bigger issue with H off stage x H on stage/doing promo/red carpets is the fact that fashion magazines (especially that V one which is deep in his ass and serves as a promo platform for his recent stunts as well) call him fashion icon because of the looks he’s serving when all eyes are on him but when you see his fashion choices for his days off it’s literally so dull and ordinary like random male influencers dress much more exciting than fashionicon!Harry for his days off. And it just gets me annoyed because I feel like I’m the only one who see this? So I will repeat myself again but imo the only one who should be called fashion icon is his stylist, because H is basically only a human hanger.
Also I feel like we get so used to H and his queer fashion choices (whenever it’s only a stage costume he got dressed by his gay stylist or his conscious personal choice) and him queercoding so now most of his fans who aren’t 100% sure about his sexuality are so confused why he looks so straight these months. But if we look at other closeted men in the industry, do they queercode? What are they doing to hint their sexuality that we know they are in fact gay but closeted?
And to add to the discussion why there aren’t new younger male artists to take H’s part for 8-20 years old. Maybe it’s a bit conspiracy but what if S*ny holds them back just to proove that H is in fact that new legendary artist who will be remembered forever like Bowie/Mercury/Prince? He only hit his 30’s this year but he’s already a legend worth to be remembered in the music history and while I find this super artifical and know how overhyped he is by everybody, what if there might he someone who will challenge him and top him in charts and take over his fandom but S*ny rather doesn’t want anyone new so there won’t be anyone to challenge H and might be more exciting than H is. I feel like all males who might be able to take H’s fans by the way they look and aspire to be fashion icons are all actors - Timoth*e, J*cob Elo*di maybe B*rry K*oghan for example - but all are actors not musicians so they can’t compete with him and so in the music industry it’s only females vs H. Nobody else. And no matter how much more popular these female singers are, they also won’t compete with H to take over his fandom.
Hi, anon!
I agree with you that his fashion icon status is mostly due to his stylists. But it's also due to Harry having the confidence and the curage to wear the stuff he wears, knowing it's provocative, flamboyant and queercoded.
I think there is a difference between unwillingly closeted and willingly closeted celebrities. The willingly closeted won't queercode, they want to appear straight. The unwillingly closeted will queercode. Billie has talked about how she queercoded before she came out to make people see her for who she is. She was hoping people picked up on it so she didn’t have to spell it out. People who are straight passing need to queercode, but others don't. Louis and Shawn don't need to queercode. They fit the gay stereotype. So people have already drawn their conclusions.
I agree that Sony might have that motivaton, but that doesn’t explain why UMG or the other record labels aren’t trying to compete with H and Sony. So idk.
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HARRY’S STYLE EVOLUTION PART 2 (HS1 Era)
by an actual stylist
First off, thanks for the love on part 1! It was truly, so fun to write. I have such a good time looking into Harry's style because it's something I've always kept my eye on throughout his and my own career. If you haven't read part 1, I definitely recommend it, as I'll be referencing some things from it. (Link to that is here.)
This is part 2, which is solo Harry, particularly during the making and tour of HS1 (2017-2018.) I just have TOO much to say about his style for it to be concise I'm so sorry lol.
Without further ado, let's get into it!
2017!
Harry's first official appearance after 1D is on October 6th, 2016, a dinner hosted to celebrate his trio of Another Man covers with Alister Mackie and Kris Van Assche. He wears a suit by Dior Homme.
To debut his single "Sing of the Times" on the Radio 1 Breakfast Show with Nick Grimshaw, he wears Gucci tartan trousers (left). He has a real Gucci tartan moment here. Also wearing a Gucci tartan suit to perform on Saturday Night Live (right.)
At this time, his personal style is still reminiscent of his late 1D style. He's still wearing black skinny jeans and the infamous YSL suede boots. He falls into a real short sleeve button-up/Hawaiian shirt kick here. Wearing it during Snl Promo (left) on Carpool Karaoke (middle) and a black open version at a New York Rangers game (right.)
On the day his solo album is released, he wears a tartan Vivien Westwood suit with Gucci loafers (left), and on the Today Show, he wears the GORGEOUS bespoke Edward Sexton bubblegum pink suit (right.)
At this point, Harry's worn a suit to basically every public appearance he's had since 1D broke up. This makes a lot of sense. He's starting his solo career and wants to be taken seriously. What's more serious than a suit? They're often brilliantly patterned or in bright colors. Showing his fans and the world that he's still the flamboyant, bright, charming person they knew in 1D but evolved. Older now, no longer in a boyband but a Man Band, as he himself puts it.
Harry wears these Gucci wide-leg trousers with dragon detailing on the leg several times. I personally love this look. He wears a pink version (left) at his first solo show at the Garage, a brown version (right,) to perform at a Sirius XM event, he also wears a similar one to perform on the Graham Norton Show. Middle, he wears a Gucci suit with Roker boots on the James Cordon show.
Also, on James Corden's show (sorry lol) he wears the same Roker boots and this dark emerald green VELVET suit by Saint Laurent that I'm absolutely obsessed with and feel like we did not give her her moment (left.)
He's also doing Dunkirk promo at this time and typically dresses much subtler for those appearances than he does to promote his own music. It makes sense he's not trying to command the spotlight at these press events, instead opting to seem more like an ensemble player. For the French premiere of Dunkirk, he wears a suit by Prada and Roker boots.
In another Late Late show appearance (he does so many during this time), he wears this Loverboy jumpsuit by Charles Jeffery (left), and on an Elvis Duran appearance, he wears a button down with art that mimics his tattoos by Stella McCartney, along with black skinny jeans and Calvin Klein boots (right.)
In September of 2017, his official Live on Tour starts in San Francisco, and he wears a floral printed suit by Gucci (left.) Later he will wear a similarly patterned floral Gucci suit to perform at Radio City Music Hall (right.)
At the iHeartRadio music festival, he wears a harlequin Gucci suit (left), and later in Sydney, Australia, at the Aria awards, he'll wear one of my favorite suits. An Alexander McQueen suit paired with gold Roker boots.
At this point, it's clear that Harry's love affair with Gucci has started he won't become the frontman of the Memoire d’une Odeur Gucci fragrance until 2019, but he definitely has some affiliation with the brand. I'm sure they're sending him pieces and working with him closely. It's unclear if this is spurred on by Harry Lambert or if Harry Styles and Alessandro Michele are friends yet, but regardless, he wears Gucci more than any other designer at this point, and Gucci will go on to supply a lot of the suits he wears during the tour.
At the 2017 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show, Harry performs wearing two suits. First is a light blue suit (left), and later, he changes into a black suit with velvet details and a pink undershirt (right.)
2018!
Harry will wear A LOT of suits during the Live on Tour tour (those were the days, huh,) and in a bit, I'll go over some of my favorites. (If you want to see all of them, that can be found here,) but first, I want to talk about his personal style.
We see him starting to move away from skinny jeans and opting for more expressive pants. In the picture on the right, he wears the first Bode piece I believe we ever see him wear! This fits the culture of the time as we as a public begin to move farther and farther away from skinny jeans.
He's not back to adorning himself in vintage t-shirts quite yet (we'll get more into that during his Fine Line era.) But there is a noticeable difference in his style, for sure. He's much trendier than he was before, and much like how his style evolved when he was hanging out with Nick Grimshaw and co, I do think part of this style change is due to his relationship with Camille Rowe.
Harry and her were first linked in July of 2017 and have assumedly been dating for several months at this time. It makes sense that he'd be gaining some of her style from osmosis. Later he'll even admit himself, "There's a piece of you in how I dress."
We'll get more into this during his Fine Line era, as that's when he starts dressing A LOT more like her, but I do think there is a noticeable shift in 2018.
As mentioned before Harry wears A LOT of suits during this time and though I genuinely do have an opinion on every single one of them, there's just not the time. So below, I'll highlight some of my favorites.
Left Harry performs at the We Can Survive Benefit in Hollywood in a custom Stella McCartney suit. Right he wears the infamous ensemble by Harris Reed (I went to university with them and am totally not jealous at all) on tour in Amsterdam.
One of the best things about the Live on Tour suits was that there really was a sense that outfits were picked for specific places.
In Glasglow, Scotland, he wears a kilt (left) from London outfitters Highland Store. When performing in Mexico city (right) he wears a suit with embroidery and right sparkly fringe (one of my favorites he'll ever wear.)
In Bologna, he wears one of my favorite Gucci suits.
That's it for part 2! Fine Line era is next, and you better strap yourselves in for that one because I have. LITERALLY SO MUCH TO SAY!
Thank you sm for reading! <3
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"Or Harry has this weird diva thing going on where he demands that when they want to step out with him, all men have to sync their outfits with him and all ladies have to wear something pink." Hahahaha that is actually interesting point! We know H (and Louis) is master in dress coding so now even people around him has to dress code for us? Lol probably not, but yeah females wearing pink, that´s interesting. Anyway I can´t wait when the tour will begin so we´ll get different content than this.
I've always side-eyed the dress code going on in Harry's entourage. It's like no one around Harry has a personality. 😄
It's definitely time we get tour content again. That's always the most fun!!
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LOT22 & Rudi Gernreich
Bringing my twitter thread on the most visible reference for LOT22 fits here...have you heard of Rudi Gernreich?
Described by Marylou Luther as dual-motived, the designer sought to:
"create [unisex] fashion for 20th c. & beyond"
"be a social commentator, who just happened to work in the medium of clothes."
Although both of the pictures attached above are in B&W - color was a focal point of Rudi's work, as he married "proportion, color mixes, and [optical illusion]-like patterns and prints, and all with soft fabrics."
"Gernreich believed that the wearer brought the clothes, or music, to life." Known as modesty's greatest enemy during his time, Rudi's work dealt with the body's natural form (which 🐑 has mentioned), free from frivolous constraints (such as gender) in search of freedom!
Born in 1922 to a Viennese Jewish family, Rudi started sketching from a young age, even being offered a London fashion apprenticeship at 12. His mother declined due to his youth & only 4 years later, they would leave Europe altogether, fleeing the Nazis & landing in LA.
His career began in dance, becoming "highly aware of what clothes did to the rest of the body." His acceptance w/in that space starkly contrasted his turmoil as a refugee & "fueled his commitment designing clothes that proclaimed, ‘You are what you decide you want to be.'"
Whilst developing his career as an avant-garde designer, in 1951, Rudi founded The Mattachine Society: an early gay secret society grown out of communist organizers. An invaluable piece of the pre-Stonewall Homophile Movement, Mattachine groups sprung up across the country.
Believing that publicly announcing his sexuality would negatively impact his career, Rudi never 'came out,' although his muse Peggy Moffitt (pictured below wearing the monokini, their most iconic collab) would later say that he "just thought [it] was obvious."
In light of conversations about Harry's fashion in regard to normative gender conceptions, I must respect the consistent homage to one of the greats, who created "democratic, innovative garments that looked ever-forward & expanded the modern woman’s position and participation in the public sphere."
Thanks for reading and learning a little bit more about queer fashion history - made possible by the Harrys!
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Well in the newest photo where H’s dressed up for some event during Masters he’s wearing flares and at least for me flares aren’t type of trousers men would normally choose… plus recently he brought his bright pink phone case into the spotlight or him wearing bright pink underwear/super short shorts. So maybe it’s not that lost with his fashion choices. I agree it’s not the same as wearing pride flag pin or ‘I study rainbows’ bracelet but I’d rather be hopeful he’ll come up with something new. As you wrote, both HL know how to queercode.
Hi, anon!
In addition to seperating Harry on stage/red carpet/promo from off work Harry, we also need to seperate Harry as he appears to the fandom and Harry as he appears to the general public and casual fans.
The flare pants Harry with male waiters pics from the Masters was (at least until now) only spread within the fandom. What the gp and the casual fans see is H at the football match, H at the Masters with Niall (the golf pic was posted in the daily mail) and the fact that H has started boxing and weight-lifting. So they get presented with a different image than we do.
I still think it's too early to say that Harry is publicly presenting a much straighter image as a fact. I really hope he's not. But it is a change that people have noticed. We'll have to wait and see if he's back to "normal" (the level of queercoding we're used to) when he starts promo, or if this is the new image for his next era.
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