Amigurumi/Crochet Toy 101 + Resources
Noticed a couple folks in my tags mentioning that they wanted to learn or wished they knew how to crochet amigurumi. So here's a quick and dirty little how-to guide with resources I threw together? Hope it helps!
Tools + Materials
Crochet is one of those hobbies that is actually relatively cheap to get into. Here is a basic list of what you'll need to get started. You can find most of these at any craft store or even Walmart.
(1) Yarn (Required)
Yarns come in a variety of weights (sizes) and fibers. I recommend a soft, worsted weight acrylic yarn (indicated by a number "4" and "medium" on the yarn label) for your first few projects.
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(2) Crochet Hook (Required)
These come in a lot of sizes and styles, and what size you'll use will depend on your yarn weight and how tight you want your stitches to be. I'd recommend buying just one hook to start with rather than a larger set. Metal hooks with ergonomic rubber handles are easiest for beginners (and on your wrists longterm, lol). A 5.0 MM/Size H or a 4.50 MM/Size G works best for making amigurumi with worsted weight yarn.
(3) Polyfil/Stuffing (Required)
For stuffing your project.
(4) Yarn Needle (Required)
Most crochet projects require sewing to one degree or another. Yarn needles are distinguished from regular sewing needles by their larger size, larger eye, and blunter tip. Yarn needles may be straight, or they may be angled at the tip (i.e. a darning yarn needle).
(5) Scissors (Required)
Any sharp, medium-sized pair of scissors will do for cutting your yarn.
(6) Sewing Pins (Recommended)
For holding parts in place as you sew them on.
(7) Stitch Marker (Recommended)
Many amigurumi projects are worked in rows of continuous rounds, and stitch markers can be used to mark the beginning or end of these rounds. They can also be used to mark areas of interest in your project or to secure your project to keep it from becoming accidentally unraveled. I strongly reccomend getting split ring ones. Scrap pieces of yarn also work in a pinch as stitch markers.
(8) Counter (Recommended)
For keeping track of your rows as you work a pattern.
(9) Safety Eyes (Recommended)
Most amigurumi will require eyes of some sort. Safety eyes (you can find these in various sizes in the doll section of any craft store) will give your project a polished look, but you can also use buttons, felt, or even embroider the eye details on your amigurumi.
(10) Stuffing Stick (Recommended)
For getting your stuffing into hard-to-reach spots. A chopstick or wooden skewer works very well for this.
Basic Crochet Stitches + Amigurumi Techniques
Most crochet patterns are built from a few basic stitches. Before attempting any larger project, I recommend getting comfortable with these stitches by making a few small, flat pot holders out of each basic stitch. A lot of crochet is pure muscle memory and practice, and this is a great way to start.
There are also a few techniques specific to making amirugumi that will be helpful for you to know. You can find any number of free videos/tutorials online. Below are links to a few videos that I found helpful when I was learning to crochet.
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How to Make a Slip Knot
Single Crochet (+ Starting Chain and How to Count Stitches)
Half Double Crochet
Double Crochet
Triple Crochet
How to Keep Starting Chain from Twisting
Magic Ring
Ultimate Finish
Invisible Finish
Invisible Decrease
Beginner Amigurumi Patterns
These were the first three patterns I learned in the process of teaching myself how to make amigurumi. I recommend working them in the order they are listed. The first two links have step-by-step instructional videos and will help ease you into learning to read amigurumi patterns. All of these patterns are free, and there are many more free patterns out there as well. Have fun!
Amigurumi Ball
Amigurumi Whale
Amigurumi Stegosaurus
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🚨[FREE BABY SEASHELL PATTERN!]🚨
Once upon a time, in the deep blue ocean, there was a tiny Baby Seashell. She lived among the mermaids 🧜🏻♀️ crabs 🦀 and octopuses 🐙 in a beautiful underwater world 🌊 The Baby Seashell loved to play hide-and-seek with her octopus friends and listen to the beautiful songs 🎶 of the mermaids. She would also often explore the nearby coral reefs 🪸 marveling at the vibrant colors and the exotic sea creatures that called it home. Despite being small, the Baby Seashell had a big heart ❤️ and always looked out for her friends, whether it was helping a crab mend a broken shell or sharing a tasty seaweed snack with the mermaids. Life was full of adventure and wonder in the deep ocean, and the Baby Seashell couldn't wait to see what each new day would bring! 🥰
Baby Seashell is a FREE addition to my Kawaii Ocean Minis crochet pattern that includes Mermaid, Triton, Octopus, Hermit Crab and Seahorse and is available here -> https://etsy.me/41Oz4GU 😊
FREE Crochet pattern for amigurumi Baby Seashell is available in English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, Portuguese and Danish, browse through the gallery to see all of these languages! 🤗
Happy crocheting and have a wonderful weekend, dear friends! 💛💙
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New little webtoy. Never wonder again how you spread 14 increases evenly over 118 stitches. It's never been easier.
I've been messing around with google sheets for a while to do knitting math for me, but now i actually used a braincell to remember how javascript works and turned my current calculators into a website. So now you can have calculators too. And you don't even need to know javascript, lucky you!
find my calculators here: https://dunes-knitting-math.neocities.org/
If i ever add more then i'll try to remember to update the list on the main page there so you can find them.
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Hey, you wanna crochet a pencil skirt? I got a tutorial for you!
Years ago, I made a video tutorial for making a pencil skirt. It ended up on the front page of ravelry, which was fucking wild.
Anyway, time has passed, I’ve kept making pencil skirts, and now I’m here with what we’ll call Tutorial 2.0. Let’s get to it:
Supplies:
Yarn
Hook
Clear Elastic Cord or woven belting
Buttons or Zipper
Step 1: Measuring
Measure the following things:
Your waist.
The widest part of your hips.
The length between your waist and the widest part of your hips.
For example measurements, I will use my own:
Waist: 33”
Hips: 43”
Length between: 8”
Step 2: Gauge swatch
A gauge swatch will help you accurately size your skirt. Work a gauge swatch of ten stitches across and ten rows. You can use any stitch you want for your skirt, but I tend to use single crochet for the waistband and double crochet for the body of the skirt. When I do a gauge swatch, I work it in double crochet since that is what I use for the skirt body.
Write down your number of stitches per inch, and the number of rows per inch.
For our example, let’s say I get 4 stitches per inch and 2 rows per inch.
Step 3: Make the waistband
Crochet a chain to the same length as your waist measurement. Work in single crochet rows until the waistband is 1 inch tall. You can work clear elastic cord on the wrong side of the rows to add some stretch to your waistband. You can also work the waistband without elastic and use belting at the end to help hold the skirt in place. I have an example of belting in this video.
Step 4: Start the body of the skirt
Once you have the waistband 1-inch tall, you can start the body of the skirt by completing a row in pattern stitch. Once you’ve done that, wrap the waistband where you want it to sit, with the open ends at the back.
Step 5: Add increases
This pencil skirt uses raglan increases. There will be four points on the skirt where you will always increase. You will work 3 stitches into each increase, always placing the next increase in the second stitch of a previous increase.
These increases should shape close to your body to give you the classic pencil skirt fit. For best results, place increases in the same places on either side of the skirt. Line them up with the front curve and back curve of your leg (the green line is the leg).
I find it easiest to mark one side of the skirt, then simply count over from the other end the same number of stitches for both increases on the other side.
Step 6: Let’s math it up!
To make sure your skirt’s gonna curve correctly, you need to be sure you can hit the last round of increases you need within the length you have between your waist and your hips. As I mentioned earlier, my waist is 33” and my hips are 43” with an 8” length between. I get 2 rows per inch and 4 stitches per inch.
First, I need to know how many stitches I will need to add to my starting count:
33 (waist measurement) x 4 (stitches per inch) = 132 stitches
43 (hip measurement) x 4 (stitches per inch) = 172 stitches
172 - 132 = 40 stitches
Second, I need to figure out how many sets of increases I need to do to add those 40 stitches. On every row I increase, I add 8 stitches.
40 / 8 = 5 rows of increases.
Third, I need figure out how many rows I have to work to reach the full 8 inches between my waist and the widest part of my hips. I know my waistband is 1 inch. I know the one row of pattern stitch I’ve completed for the skirt body is ½”.
8 inches (total length between waist and hips) - 1-½” (amount of skirt already worked) = 6-½” to work.
I get 2 rows per inch.
2 x 6 = 12 rows
And then 1 more row for the other ½”. So, that’s 13 rows I need to work, but I only need 5 rows of increases. This means that I can work increase rows, then work a row or two even. This will keep the curve of the skirt smooth. The increase pattern may look like this:
Row 2 of skirt body: Increase
Row 3: work even
Row 4: work even
Row 5: Increase
Row 6: work even
Row 7: Increase
Row 8: work even
Row 9: work even
Row 10: Increase
Row 11: work even
Row 12: Increase
Row 13: work even
I do recommend working one row even between each increase row. That is 100% a personal preference.
Step 7: Join and work in rounds!
After you’ve completed the final increase round, you can join to the first stitch of the row and work in rounds for the rest of the skirt. This will let you try it on as you add length, so you can see how it’s building. When it’s the final length you want, fasten off.
Step 7: Waist and fastenings.
If you carried elastic cord on the back of the waistband when you worked the waistband, you can either add a zipper or buttons, depending on what you’d prefer. I like zippers just because I’m bad at buttonholes.
If you did not carry elastic, you can either sew in a strip, or you can use belting to create a stronger waistband that will keep its shape over time. If you choose to use a zipper with the belting, I recommend putting the belting in first because then it can act as extra support for the top of the zipper.
Once you’ve finished off that way, you’re good to go. I bet you look great!
Final notes:
If you need more than 8 increases per increase row to get your skirt the right hip measurement at the correct point in your hip, you can add more increases. Here’s an example:
If you want a pencil skirt that is a big snugger in the butt, work an inch without increases, then complete decreases in the same spots you had previously been increasing (You’ll decrease over 3 stitches for each decrease to match your increase count). Work a row or two even, try on, and then decrease again if you want to. Repeat as much as you’d like to get a very close fit.
If you keep working increases, you’ll get an A-line skirt. You can still join at the end of the final increase you need to hit your hip width and work in rounds after that.
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