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todayontumblr · 4 months
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Wednesday, November 29.
You reap what you sew.
Never have truer words been spoken. But they come as good news for Tumblr's sewing community, however, who have been sewing some absolute delights. Some real œuvres d'art. Some winner-winner chicken dinners.
As luck would have it, #sewing is trending. And it's trending right now, so we have reaped a selection of these very dinners for your eyes only. We have then asked ourselves just what did we do to deserve y'all, and your resplendent talents.
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sivelu · 3 months
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I made an outfit for my little persian cat! He goes on a long snowy adventure 🌨
I hope his tiny wings wont get too tired.
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tillius-the-paladin · 2 months
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Just saw someone claim that “the sewing machine will not hurt you (probably)” and I am shocked and appalled. Sewing machines are power tools. They are dangerous. Even a skilled user can get careless or unfocused and seriously injure themself. Needles break and can go flying, and if you’re at the wrong angle and without eye protection, that means they go flying into your eye. You can sew through fingers. It is genuinely is unsafe to tell people, especially in a post geared towards beginner sewists, that sewing machines are not dangerous.
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ineffag-swag · 9 months
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everwizard · 2 years
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Just saw a post about creating art and I want to share with y'all the project I've started.
I'm going to sew a life size, 1:1 ratio scale Enderman.
I've worked out all the calculations for the dimensions based off the information given by the the texture and data given by Minecraft.
He will be 290 cm (about 9'6") tall. His arms and legs are all 174 cm (about 5'8") long. The width of both arms and legs is 11.6 cm (about 4.57 inches).
I have all the calculations laid out as well as an estimation of the pattern layout. I'll reblog with the images as soon as I have my notebook handy.
It's going to be a very expensive and time consuming project but I'm really excited to do it :3
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ahedderick · 7 months
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It was green, so I bought it
Fabric stores are extremely dangerous; in this essay I will
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FREE POETSHIRT PATTERN
Some assembly required
Ok so. I made a sewing pattern that involves a lot of maths on the end users part - this is the only way I, a complete pattern making novice, can make this 100% size inclusive. Luckily it’s super simple and it just a whole bunch of rectangles.
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Yes it’s written in cm. Bite me.
So to elaborate a bit:
It’s pretty straight forward. You plug in your own measurements in the places it’s needed.
Body x2: should be twice your either shoulder width or your widest point (if you’re more pear shaped you might want to use your hip width) by the length from your shoulder to about mid thigh* (you can make it as long or short as you want. This could probably also work as a shift pattern in a pinch). In one of the pieces, you should cut a slit in the middle, which as shown above should be about from your neck to your sternum.
Sleeves x2: these should be 2-3 times your bicep measure (this will determine the poofiness of the sleeves), by your arm length. Adding a few cm to the length can be a good idea here. I usually just round up to what seems most logical.
Cuffs x4: your wrist measure + 3-4cm of ease, by how ever long you want them - 5-10cm is a good place to start.
Collar x2: your collar measure** by however tall you want your collar. Keep in mind that it will be folded over.
Gussets
Oh glorious gussets. The whole reason this pattern works! But also where it gets a bit mathy
Sleeve gussets: these are square. The diagonal should be about 1/6 of your total armscye (all the way around). Rather a bit too small than too big - it can fuck up the fit (it did for me)
Shoulder gussets: these will depend wholely on how buff your trapezius muscles are. If your neck/shoulder is at a right angle, they’re not strictly necessary, but if you’re super buff, they’re very necessary. I’d say an average shoulder gusset is about 5-7cm, but it’s up to you.
Reinforcements
Again, these aren’t strictly necessary, but if you want your shirt to last it’s a good idea to put them in. You can choose to use between 5 and 10 total. These don’t need to be very big, they just go at any split in the fabric. About 2,5cm is good.
Instructions
I used these videos for assembly instructions
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This is going to be hard without pictures…
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*you can also keep the body as one piece, which should then be twice the length you want it. The slit at the neck will also have to be cut in the middle of the piece.
**your collar measure is the measurement at your neck going over your collarbone rather than tight to the neck.
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curiouscrux · 7 months
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Loft's Tunic
The finished product! Loft is a Link from @bonus-links by @ezdotjpg. The weaving process is detailed here for the alpaca overtunic. The undertunic was hand sewed in linen, and the amber necklace is hemp. Pleated pants were from a past project. Sadly, I do not own a Goddess Harp, so a Turkish lyre will have to do.
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Much gratitude to one of my partners for driving me out to Huckleberry Reserve Faron Woods and taking pictures.
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charlisabeth · 2 months
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The perks of working at a fabric shop
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Last summer, I got a bunch of surplus fabric samples from my boss, saving them from the trash.
I knew I wanted to make a blanket from them right away and spent a good bit of time counting, sorting and planning the arrangement. I tried to spread the colours and different patterns as evenly as possible and went for an otherwise simple approach, as this was my first time quilting anything bigger than a pillowcase. It was at times super difficult to wrangle this under my sewing machine and handstitching the binding all around took forever. I might add some more intricate stitches on the individual rectangles at some point, but for now I really like how it turned out and it makes for a fun cover for my couch.
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crimboscrungly · 2 months
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so I'm a costume designer and I work with a lot of high schools. this season, one of those schools is doing a production of The Complete Works of William Shakespeare Abridged.
for those who are unfamiliar - it's a fun, improv-heavy show, and Hamlet takes up almost the entire second half. when Hamlet's father initially appears as a ghost, he's represented as a sock puppet on some fishing wire. later on, though, an actor DOES play his father on stage.
thus, we come to this:
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the "sock" is a serged tube of white rib-knit fabric, and the hand is made from foam and wire. the eyes are styrofoam, and the crown is crafting foam. there are straps on the inside so he can sit securely as a hat/headdress.
he is perfect....
i am A Professional.
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claypigeonpottery · 5 months
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tailorbird is here to mend your life
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lithyena · 4 months
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Finallyyyyy finished this patchwork skirt! I'm so happy it's done
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onegirlatelier · 5 months
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October, 2023 | Two-pieced skirt from Southern Song Dynasty (intro+tutorial)
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Introduction
(Note: for now I’m not making a bibliography for this article, but if you are interested I’m more than happy to send the sources.)
The two-pieced skirt (liǎng piàn qún) is a type of skirt from the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279). It is also known as xuàn qún (literal translation: circle/swirl skirt). As far I know, there are two sets of surviving samples of these skirts, one from the tomb of Ms Huang Sheng (this was her full maiden name - she died at 17, one year after getting married, in 1243) and the other from the tomb of Ms Zhou (also her maiden name - she died possibly at 35 and was buried in 1274). The main stylistic difference between these two sets of two-pieced skirts is that those of Ms Zhou had a relatively large difference between the hem and waist measurements (the hem is 15~20cm wider than the waist circumference), whereas those of Miss Huang Sheng had a small difference (approx. 10cm).
Below is a diagram showing the construction. The skirt is composed of one upper piece and one under piece. Each piece consists of two panels which are trapezoids or (roughly) rectangles. For the sake of convenience, we shall call them the centre panel and the side panel. You can see that the centre panels of the two pieces overlap, and the whole thing is fixed onto a waist band. All surviving samples have relatively wide waist bands—about 10-14cm in width. One strip on each side of the waist band is used to tie the skirt.
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Pattern details
The modern common agreement is that the panels are usually right trapezoids (trapezoids with two right angles). I don’t know whether this is historically accurate, as some people think they were pentagons, but I doubt we can ever find out from what is currently available, just because the fabrics had been damaged and distorted over time. Assuming that they are right trapezoids, there are two different ways to piece the panels: you can sew the edges with two right angles together, or you can sew together the opposite edge with two non-right angles together (see diagram). They yield different results. A skirt made with the first method would have more of an A-line and more flowy. One made with the second method would wrap more snugly around the torso and give an H-shape.
You might have noticed that the centre panel is a bit wider than the side panel. This is because the centre panel would be worn in the back and the side in the front. A good starting point is to make the centre panel 10cm wider, but this of course depends on one’s body shape.
Another modern agreement is that the skirt better compliments a flat body shape with gentle curves (as has been the mainstream high-class aesthetics for the female body for a very, very long time right up to now). The most prominent issue with a difference between waist and hip measurements is that the skirt will bunch up at the lower back. To alleviate this issue, darts are used on the sides. Another way is to wear a petticoat, some underpants, or just something around the waist to enlarge the waist measurement. The skirt is not designed to accommodate a large difference between waist and hip circumferences (>30cm probably, though it starts to get difficult at 25cm).
Applying your measurements
(Numbers, when applicable, are in centimetres.)
You need your waist and hip circumferences. The skirt is usually full length. I like to make it as long as possible without the danger of tripping. It could be made shorter for thicker stiffer fabrics or a more modern look. Keep in mind that the skirt has a very high waist.
The length of the waistband is usually 1.7-1.9*waist circumference. In any case, it cannot be shorter than 1.3*hip circumference or it won’t close properly.
Now that you have the length of the waistband, you can calculate the upper edges of the panels. Let a be the length of the waistband, b the finished upper edge of the side panel. Then the finished upper edge of the centre panel is roughly b+10. Using the information discussed in the previous section, we have an equation: a=2b+b+10. This is your starting point—adjust as needed.
Triangular darts. There are a few ways to make them and this is just one of them. Let c be the width on each side of one dart. c=(hip-waist)/4. This means each dart will eliminate half of the (hip-waist) difference, and there are two darts.
c+b= total width on the upper edge of the panel. The bottom edge (i.e. the hem) of the same panel would be about 5cm wider than the upper edge.  
The width of the waistband. If you would like to wear it without folding, 6-8cm is good. If wearing with a fold (which sometimes also helps reducing the bunching at the lower back), make it 10-14cm. Note that you need to cut the waistband doubling the width plus allowance.
The ties are usually 2-3cm wide. As for the length, try start from waist circumference+0.6*skirt length. I like to make it 20cm longer because I like long billowy ribbons. Like the waistband, you cut the ties doubling the width since you will fold it in sewing.
Then you would have something like this:
(measurements used: waist 65, hip 89)
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Be careful that you need extra fabric because of the fold created at the dart. (You’d need less fabric if you cut away the excess fabric in the dart.)
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Fabric suggestions
This is important. Very very important. Because only the right fabric is worth your time and produces the desired result.
In general, choose something soft, drapey and that conforms to your body. Two or three centimetres of difference in calculation hardly matters when you use a good silk.
Silk: a Chinese specialty called Luo is probably one of the best. Other types of soft drapey silks of medium weights are all fine. I don’t like the right side of silk charmeuse because it reflects the body curves a bit too much.
Viscose: use silk as a guide. I find that twill weave or crepe tends to be more drapey than plain weave.
Cotton/linen/wool: some of these are fine too. If using a thicker wool, only use it for the top piece and use a thin fabric for the under piece of the skirt.
An extra note on cutting out the pieces:
If you are making a skirt with contrasting colours/prints, pay attention to where you cut so that the best part of the pattern of the under piece can actually show through the slit.
Construction
Piece together the side panel and the centre panel, using French seams to make the side seam. Sew all the way from top to bottom.
Sew the dart and press it towards the back. (Alternatively, you can cut away excess fabric, or even make a pocket at the side seam.)
Do Steps 1 and 2 for both the upper and under pieces. Finish the allowances on the sides by folding twice and doing an invisible edge stitch. Leave the hem unfinished.
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Lay the upper and under pieces together, baste and check fit. Sometimes the centre panel don’t overlap perfectly and that’s fine.
Finish the ties, including the shorter edge not attached to the waistband.
Sew the outer side of the waistband to the skirt panels by laying them right sides together. Press open.
Fold the waistband right sides together and sandwich the tie in between. If wearing the waistband unfolded, you need to attach the tie along the top of the waistband on the under wide and in the middle of the waistband on the upper side (see picture). Sew. Do this for both short edges of the waistband.
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(You can interline the waistband if the fabric is too soft. I used a non-adhesive cotton interlining and cut it without allowance and stitched it onto the allowances of the skirt panels. Whatever method suits you should work.)
Turn the right side out and finish the inner side of the waistband by folding in the allowance and using an invisible stitch/felting stitch.
Finish the hem. For the corner, I prefer to do a three-fold corner so that I don't have to trim away the excess.
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Wash and press. Et voilà!
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knittystitch · 1 year
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As we approach the marathon crafting that is Right Before The Holidays, this is your annual reminder to please remember to take frequent stretch, water, and food breaks to keep yourself well friends 💕
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adaycalledx · 9 days
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people on etsy/other crafting sites NEED to stop calling their patterns plus size when their "3X" bust measurement is 40" (or less) and the waist measurement is 36" (or less) thats NOT plus size
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Proud to announce that I finally finished my first tail! :) I'm working on the rest of a mini partial fursuit to go with this bad boy, but for now, it's a standalone item. It came out a little bigger than I intended, but I'm still really happy with it and excited to make more stuff like this in the future!!
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