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#buff orpington behavior
makenna-made-this · 22 hours
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Wish I had neck feathers I could flare out...
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*sigh* Don't we all?
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omg-snakes · 2 years
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Hi I just want to say I love your blog and your snakes are so freaking cute!! I also had a question if you have time to answer it. I really love reptiles and would like to get into reptile keeping (probably not for a year or so as I have one more semester of my bachelor's degree and then will probably be moving). I've been doing a lot of research in preparation for bringing one home in the future. However, I've been wondering, do people ever sell fertilized reptile hatching eggs for people to hatch? I don't think this is something I would do if any breeders offered it because I don't have much experience, but I do breed chickens and people do this all the time with chicken eggs, so I was wondering if it is something people do with reptiles too. I imagine shipping would be harder with reptile eggs than chicken eggs bc of how soft they are, but I was still curious and thought it might be worth asking!
Hi there!
Okay I LOVE this ask. I think about this sort of thing a lot and while it's definitely not a thing I often wish it could be.
The very short answer is that for most reptiles, selling a fertilized egg to hatch at home is not feasible. It's definitely not possible to ship fertilized reptile eggs with any hope of hatching them, but in a few rare cases you could possibly sell one in person, in an insulated container, and if the buyer went straight home and got it into an incubator it would probably be okay.
There are a few reasons why reputable reptile breeders don't do this.
Consider that chickens have a fast rate of maturity, relatively fast incubation, regular and predictable breeding cycle, and eggs can rest for a bit before they're incubated for hatching. All of this adds up to eggs that are relatively abundant, inexpensive, forgiving in terms of being jostled since the eggs are designed to be turned during incubation, a quick turnaround from purchase to enjoying your new pet, and within a year, if you hatched a hen, you'll be able to make more eggs. As a domesticated species bred for hardiness and responsiveness to human care, healthy chicks will start eating and displaying normal chickeny behaviors right away.
Corn snakes, for contrast, take up to 4 years to mature, they only breed once per year and lay a relatively small number of eggs per breeding season compared to an average chicken, their eggs take 65-ish days to incubate, and the embryos adhere to the top of the egg very soon after the eggs are laid so they can not be turned or the embryo will be smothered by their own yolk. Once hatched, a corn snake neonate will not eat until after their first shed and sometimes a bit after that! This can be a harrowing, delicate time in a baby snake's life and they need an experienced keeper to help them thrive.
Furthermore, chickens come in specialized breeds where corn snakes are an undomesticated species. Reptiles come in color morphs but they don't have defined breeds with expected size, color, temperament, health expectations, or fecundity the way chickens do.
So if you were to, say, buy buff orpington hatching eggs, you'd reliably hatch buff orpingtons, with orpington personalities and characteristics. If you bred two hypo corn snakes, you'd definitely get hypo corn snake babies but you might also get other color morphs depending on the genetics of the parents. Unless you know very well the specific genes, temperaments, sizes, and health histories of the parents you won't have any idea of what's going to hatch. And even with all that information, it's still quite variable!
Finally, corn snakes cost a lot more than most chicken breeds and the price of a snake is in part determined by the genes they carry. Two snakes in the same clutch might vary significantly in terms of color expression, so you could have a $50 snake and a $200 snake in the same clutch! Since every egg carries a risk of failing to hatch, sellers don't usually price their snakes until they're alive, eating, and thriving. If a seller were to price their eggs, knowing the genetics of the parents that produced said eggs, they'd either be taking a huge loss on the value of a potentially valuable snake or asking their buyer to incur a significant loss should an expensive egg fail. If a breeder were to go this route, they'd probably only offer eggs that they know are low-dollar-value or have low desirability, and then we have to ask why somebody is breeding snakes they don't think are desirable...
All said and done, it's probably a safer idea to contact a local breeder and ask them to tag an egg for you, allowing you the first right of refusal on whomever hatches. They'll insure that "your" egg stays safe and if for any reason it does fail, you won't have invested anything in it except hope.
I hope this helps explain and that I didn't crush anybody's dreams.
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breezybirdfarms · 8 months
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The Mystery of Heritage Chicks: Why They Cannot be Sexed at Hatch
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Day old heritage brahma chick
When it comes to hatching heritage chicks, there is an intriguing aspect that sets them apart from other breeds – their elusive gender. Unlike some commercially bred chicks, true heritage chicks cannot be accurately sexed at hatch. This charming mystery adds an extra layer of excitement to the process of raising these unique birds. In this article, we will explore the reasons behind the inability to sex true heritage chicks at hatch and shed light on the wonders of their natural development.
1. Genetic Diversity: True heritage breeds have a rich historical lineage and have been carefully preserved over generations. Their genetic diversity contributes to their resilience and adaptability. However, this diversity also makes it challenging to predict their gender at hatch. Unlike certain hybrid breeds that have been selectively bred for specific traits, heritage chicks exhibit a wider range of characteristics, making it difficult to determine their sex based on physical features alone.
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Day old buff orpington chick
2. Time and Patience: Determining the gender of chicks typically requires a visual examination of specific physical attributes. However, in the case of heritage chicks, these characteristics take time to develop fully. At hatch, their sexual organs are not yet fully formed or distinguishable, making it virtually impossible to determine if they are male or female. Patience is key when it comes to identifying the gender of true heritage chicks, as it often requires waiting until they reach a certain age or stage of development for more accurate observations.
3. Natural Development: One of the fascinating aspects of raising true heritage chicks is witnessing their natural development. The inability to sex them at hatch allows us to observe their growth and behavior without any preconceived notions or biases. It encourages us to appreciate the unique journey each chick embarks upon, regardless of their eventual gender. By allowing nature to take its course, we embrace the unpredictability and beauty of their individuality.
4. Surprises and Rewards: While not being able to sex true heritage chicks at hatch may initially seem like a challenge, it actually adds an element of surprise and excitement to the hatching process. It allows us to eagerly anticipate the moment when their gender becomes apparent. This anticipation creates a sense of wonder and joy, as we eagerly watch them grow and discover their individual personalities.
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Mature sexed Pavlovskaya Rooster, easily defined by plumage
Conclusion: True heritage chicks hold a special place in the hearts of poultry enthusiasts, as they represent a connection to our past and the preservation of diverse genetic lineages. The inability to sex them at hatch adds a delightful element of suspense and curiosity to the experience of raising these unique birds. By embracing their natural development and patiently waiting for their gender to reveal itself, we embark on a journey filled with surprises, rewards, and a deeper appreciation for the wonders of nature.
So, let the true heritage chicks unfold their mysteries, and enjoy the journey of raising these remarkable creatures, regardless of their eventual gender. Stay tuned for the exception to this rule that will be discussed in the next article.
Candace Breezy Bird Farms
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backyard-alchemist · 10 months
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The Chicken List
NB: when mentioned, "Farmer" is Mathias. Last updated: September 11, 2023.
2022
"Coffee Girls"
[Espresso • Female]
Black Jersey Giant
Lays a large egg, in a medium brown matte color. Sometimes has a pinkish purple bloom but rarely speckled.
Has a single/straight comb and had a fleshier, larger size as a pullet compared to the others. She walks tall.
The boss hen of the Black Jersey Giants. She is not bossy or a bully, but she is decisive.
Is not interested in humans. Would rather eat treats on the ground than in a hand.
Has good evasion and foraging skills. Great mother.
[Macchiato • Female]
Black Jersey Giant.
Lays a large egg, in a medium-light brown color. Sometimes has a dusty bloom.
Has a single comb, a large deep body, and meatier type compared to the others. She is low to the ground.
She is incredibly, so very, absent minded. She pecks at the ground and forgets where the flock is. Bless her heart.
Loves treats and is easily caught. Trusts handlers to lead her, but neutral towards humans otherwise.
Fantastic forager. Would lose to Darwin in the wild.
[Italiano • Female]
Black Jersey Giant
Lays a large, light-brown narrow egg, sometimes with a chalky bloom. Often speckled.
Has a single comb, as a pullet had a skinny body type. Fast metabolism.
So food motivated it's not funny. Easily becomes a rooster's favorite because of this.
Can be lured with treats but prefers Chip's tidbitting. Will calm down after being caught and enjoy lap time.
Great forager, great evasive skills. Unfortunately does not stand up to a roo.
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[Frappe • Female]
Buff Orpington.
Lays a large, light brown/tan egg, sometimes with light speckles or calcium spots.
Has a single comb, had an average body type for a pullet. Slow growing, somewhat small for her breed.
Loves people. Will be up under Farmer if given the chance; however, this means she's not as social with her flockmates.
Great temperament, and very handleable. Stands up to roos, even of her own breed.
[Charles Entertainment Chicken • Male]
Buff Orpington.
Harvested on July 24, 2022 (20wks even). Single comb, average body type for a cockerel. Slow growing and had more feathers than meat at 20wks. Thin skinned.
Escape artist. Liked to challenge humans, but didn't see them as a threat. Easily herded by Farmer.
Poor rooster instincts at 20wks. Did not tidbit for the girls' attention nor did he lead well. Poor mounting ability.
Fickle and flighty temperament. Awkward. Little to no fight and might've left "his" hens if it came to fisticuffs.
"Grain Squad"
[SurvivorChip • Male]
Olive Egger (Marans × Ameraucana).
Single × Pea comb, slightly larger than average as chick and cockerel. Mostly black down with white spots.
HAND-RAISED. The only surviving chick out of four in the brooder. Challenges humans as a result.
Great rooster instincts. Tidbits, treads, and protects hens well. Sick evasive maneuvers. Possibly over-sensitive to "threats."
At least one copy of the feathered leg, ear feather, neck feather, and blue egg genes.
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2023
"Flower Power"
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[Hollyhock • Female]
Barnyard mix 01
Black Jersey Giant × Olive Egger (Marans × Ameraucana)
Incubator/Test Tube baby - June 21, 2023.
First to hatch. Comb is not yet apparent.
Ear muffs, a beard, and feathered legs. Will be culled from breeding if not otherwise exceptional.
Relatively calm disposition.
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[Aster • Male]
Barnyard mix 03
Black Jersey Giant × Olive Egger (Marans × Ameraucana)
Incubator/Test Tube baby - June 21, 2023.
Second to hatch. Comb is not yet apparent.
Feathered legs. Will be culled from breeding if not otherwise exceptional.
Displays.... Boy behavior, yet is more reserved than his brothers.
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[Indigo • Female]
Barnyard mix 02
Black Jersey Giant × Olive Egger (Marans × Ameraucana)
Incubator/Test Tube baby - June 21, 2023.
The third to hatch. Comb is not yet apparent.
Ear muffs and feathered legs. Will be culled from breeding if not otherwise exceptional.
Sweet. Is often content to sit in Farmer's hands.
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[Hawthorn • Male]
Barnyard mix 04
Buff Orpington × Olive Egger (Marans × Ameraucana)
Incubator/Test Tube baby - June 21, 2023.
Fourth and final chick to hatch. Comb is not yet apparent.
Ear muffs, a beard, and feathered legs. Will be culled from breeding if not otherwise exceptional.
The most socialized because he's a family favorite.
Supposedly, Frappe's daughters should have dark dorsal patterns and light underbellies (countershading). The sons should remain light.
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[Maple • Female]
Barnyard mix 05
Buff Orpington × Olive Egger (Marans × Ameraucana)
Espresso's baby; hatched roughly around June 28, 2023.
Presumably the first to hatch. Comb is not yet apparent.
Clean legs. Coloration is ideal.
Clever and avoids Farmer when able. Swift enough to evade getting her 1 week photograph.
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[Sycamore • Male]
Barnyard mix 06
Buff Orpington × Olive Egger (Marans × Ameraucana)
Espresso's baby; hatched roughly around June 28, 2023.
Presumably the second to hatch; the smallest of the chicks. Comb is not yet apparent.
Clean legs, though will not likely be the better of Chip's sons.
Fearful of the environment, yet adventuresome and somewhat trusting of Farmer.
Supposedly, Frappe's sons should remain light except for a few black feathers scattered about.
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shadyufo · 7 years
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I pick grass seeds for the Nuggets all the time but the other day I decided to bundle them together and hang them up to give them something new to play with.
Chickens are incredibly smart and it’s important to provide them with enrichment. This can be done by making sure they have plenty of space to explore with things like grass, logs, and lots of dirt in that space for them to pick through and hop up on, food provided in new and interesting forms, and even toys! Bells, balls, mirrors, swings, and even laser pointers all make for hours of fun for our feathered friends!
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homeofhousechickens · 2 years
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I’m sorry if this has been asked before but what type of chicken would you recommend for a first time owner?? I’ve wanted chickens for YEARS and I finally think I might be ready to get a few soon but I’m stumped on what kind…(I’d also be open to non-chicken suggestions like quail if you think those are best too??) for context, some friends and I are starting a small hobby farm together, but I don’t NEED like heavy layers or anything, I would actually more likely treat my first chickens more like pets than anything. I love my animals a whole lot 😂 but some eggs every now n then would be nice too. Thank you!!
Any of the these will be easy to start with. You will want to avoid hatcheries if possible as hatchery birds are more prone to behavioral issues and health issues
Buff Orpington
Australorp
Barred Rock
Delaware
Sussex
Salmon Faverolles
Brahma
If you want a bird who will lay to many eggs for you to handle and you want a bird that is a lot more intelligent and mischievous then your other birds add a leghorn or two.
I suggest starting small. A flock of 4 hens is a good place to start. Always build your coops bigger then what your starter flock needs because chicken math is real.
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daesungindistress · 4 years
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Oh wow chickbang have gotten so big! Is anyone a troublemaker? What are their personalities like?
No one is really what I would call a troublemaker. Barring some minor squabbles here and there, just pecking order stuff, nothing serious, nothing dangerous, everyone is getting along nicely. Yay! I suppose the only one I would have considered a troublemaker at any point was GD, who I... um... don’t have anymore.
I’ll put this one behind a cut.
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This was my last photo of him. GD went to a new home back in July. New home, new harem. Months of trying to manage the feather picking by the other chickens that contributed to his baldness was just not working out, plus it eventually reached a point where I could not handle the constant crowing. He crowed all day long, every hour of the day from sunup to sundown. Hearing voices would set him off -- my voice, neighbors’ voices, visitors’ voices, whatever. And in the final few weeks I had him, as he reached sexual maturity and was becoming protective of “his” flock, he took to crowing nonstop any time I was around, only settling down when I would leave them and go back inside the house.
Roosters crow to announce their presence and establish dominance. He probably saw me as competition. Maybe even a mild threat? He never attacked me, in fact he always seemed to fear me (lol), but he was really ruining my enjoyment of my own chickens. He was beautiful and interesting but the little dude had to go. And while it was hard to go through with it, to finally do it after months of thinking about it, once he was gone, to be honest, I found I didn’t really miss him 🤷‍♀️
...because the very next day after I rehomed him I got my first egg! And that began a whole new “chapter” of Chickbang’s story. Within the next week several more hens had begun laying, and by the end of the month, all seven. I suspect GD was causing them stress and slowing down their development because he matured earlier than they did and was mounting and trying to mate with them before they were ready. All in all, they seem happier and more at ease as an all-female flock, and they’re friendlier and more attentive toward me now than they were before, probably because I’ve replaced the rooster as head of the flock. I’m happy with my decision. I’m also happy I kept and raised him for as long as I did because I feel I learned a lot about the physical and behavioral characteristics of cockerels/young roosters and will be better able to identify them at an early age in the future.
As for everyone’s personalities... gonna turn to bullet points for this one.
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Dae
Is now something of a lap chicken despite wanting nothing to do with me when young. All on her terms, of course.
Quacks like a duck.
Very noisy, has a big voice just like her namesake.
Her breed (Buff Orpington) tends to “go broody” (mothering instinct kicks in and she’ll want to sit on a clutch of eggs and hatch them), and in August she actually went what I call “half broody”, meaning she would spend hours on the nest and would puff up and screech at other hens when they came near, guarding “her” eggs, even though the eggs she was sitting on weren’t actually hers. She didn’t spend all day there, however, which meant she wasn’t fully broody. I got into the habit of retrieving eggs from underneath her, gently. Thankfully, she never pecked me, just made unhappy clucking noises at me for the egg thievery.
Doesn’t bully Gwisun anymore, or anyone for that matter, so that’s good!
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Bae
Gets a little nutty when she needs to lay.
Runs back and forth between the nests (I now have two separate structures inside the run that contain nests for the chickens, just giving them options and trying to cut down on the crowding), is extremely indecisive and kicks up such a fuss until she finally, finally settles on a nest she deems suitable.
Wrecks the nest before laying an egg in it.
Talkative, but that’s nothing new.
The only hen who I’ve never actually seen lay an egg... what’s up with that?
Is still curious about everything but doesn’t peck me anymore so that’s good (she tore my eyelid once, thanks Bae).
Is regularly dominated by Gwisun, which is a fairly recent development. Gwisun was always bottom of the pecking order but one day decided to have it out for Bae. They started out leaping in the air and bumping chests, but it wasn’t long before Bae was submitting, squatting when Gwisun stood over her, and just plain running away when she pursued her. Gwisun still takes it upon herself to reminds Bae who’s boss from time to time, chasing her and occasionally even mounting her!
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VIP
Big Momma (not actually a momma, just big... biggest of them all)
Doesn’t handle the heat well and was the first to learn that standing in pans of water helped cool her off! Smart girl.
Lays large eggs.
Is pretty chill overall, takes most things in stride, not easily bothered.
Doesn’t sit back down on her egg after laying it or otherwise hang out in the nests any longer than she needs to. Does her thing and leaves pretty quickly afterward, which is great! It means I can collect and go if I happen to be out there with them when she does the deed.
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Tabi (on the left)
Head hen (I think)
Seems perpetually ill-tempered, the sounds she makes are IMO a little grumpy. Kinda whiny? IDK. I get the impression that half the time I'm with them she's giving me the stink eye.
Pecks at my hand when I try to pick up feed off the ground to give to her. As a warning? It's not especially painful.
Is very businesslike about her egg laying. Gets in, lays her egg quickly, gets out.
Rarely sings the “egg song” after laying. Is she not proud of her accomplishment?
Is extremely punctual and reliable when it comes to eggs. Lays at almost the same time every day, usually early. First in the nest, first out.
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BB
Lay pretty blue-green eggs!
SHOUTS her egg song.
Is super sweet toward me. Funny, considering she was terrified of me when she was just a chick. She’ll hover nearby and stare at me quietly, and when I raise my hand, without fail, she squats submissively. Heck, all I have to do is look at her and she drops. So I pet her a lot. Why not? And she picks at my clothes gently, something hens are known to do to the feathers of roosters they like. I think she’s smitten with me lol
Is occasionally challenged by Gwisun but stands her ground.
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CL
Also lays pretty blue-green eggs, but not as regularly as BB. I never really know when to expect eggs from her.
Tends to produce weak eggshells, might have a defective shell gland.
Sings the egg song often and quite loudly when other hens are laying, along with BB. Both my Easter Eggers like to flex their singing voices...
Aside from that, very aloof overall. Was friendlier as a baby but has become distant as an adult.
Not sure what else to say about her. She’s kind of... off in her own little world most of the time. She doesn’t interact much with me or the other hens.
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Gwisun
Has changed the most!
Not the best picture, I know.
Egg song could be mistaken for a barking puppy, it's hilarious.
Is the best flyer in the flock. Has sailed clear over the fence a few times, meaning I had to chase her down and catch her. Since she started laying, however, has not attempted to escape again.
Surprisingly noisy... starts screeching 30 minutes to an hour before it’s time to let the chickens out in the yard each evening.
So much for Polish being a docile breed. Despite being a total pushover when she was younger, Gwisun is feisty these days. She still gets bossed around by some hens who are highest in the pecking order, such as Tabi and VIP, but she’s had enough of being bottom rung and seems to be working her way up.
Is my only white egg layer at the moment. Consistently lays 3 days on, 1 day off. We’ll see how long that lasts as the days shorten with winter’s approach.
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antijacob · 4 years
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that’s so cute :(( do you have any ideas of what kind of chickens you want?
yes i do !! buff orpingtons, plymouths, silkies, chochins, and wyandottes are some i’ve mostly considered, it’ll be partially down to what’s available when i go to the store but i think the store facebook page i saw posted said they’ll be getting buff orpingtons in in april as well as silkies. i’d only like maybe one silkie since they aren’t as good of egg layers though and i’ve got a big family so i’d like to have a decent egg production happening from most of the chickens. and i narrowed down the chicken types to these couple by egg laying and behavior bc i want a typically friendly breed rather than flighty ones.
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viviere · 5 years
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I got chickens! Young pullets so the goal of eggs is a late summer dream away.
Nobody told me how enamored I would be with their cute sweet chirps and clucks and they are so sweet and I cannot. 
My set up isnt perfect because I think I really needed to see them in perfect and their behavior to fully imagine how to adjust our backyard. Unfortunately, getting them and then 3 days straight of cold blustery rain is no fun at all.
I got 4 because 1 came free and the owners talked me into a third ToT But I dont think the space is ideal for 4- we were originally doing 2. That said..the additional 2 are really the best. The buff orpington is the biggest and the alphacluck, already deemed Nuggets. She does her own business and is a straight up boss. Next in line is a tiny polish girl, shes really tiny but doesn’t get bossed as much as the others surprisingly. Reminds me of a roadrunner.
The barred rock- the free bird is the most ‘tame’ and loves to come up and say hello and peep for treats. She looks to be the bottom bird ToT Lastly, we have a silver laced wyandotte who is so rogueish in looks and behavior. She is sneaky, thiefy, and a skittish little thing. Also picked on by Nuggets. I was able to have her come and eat out of my hand today (the rain is stopping I think but its still so cold and wet while I kneel outside)..but she keeps thinking my fingers is food and tries to forcefully devour them. Ouch. Stabby rogue. Her name might just be Arya of the Faceless Hen.
Anyways, I can’t wait for it to be sunny again. I have to set up some barriers and nettings to protect them from getting out and getting into our garden/plants. But they are already getting spoiled with salads and chopped veggies and bugs and everything. I really hope I dont have to rehome one or two in case it does not work out.
I tried to close the coop today but as soon as I went ouside, 3 of them came out saying hello! A few treats later, they were satisfied and I got to say goodnight. Ohmigoshh.
Move over beacon, I found some new girlsfriends ovo. At least they take food from me. He has a one track mind and it is simply ‘wakwakcoooo! Im a big sexy strong boy! FITE ME’
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petsinmyfuture · 7 years
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A List of Animals I Would Love to Own
Dogs
- Dalmatian (Preferably LUA/NUA; Because of health concerns; if not then a non-show-worthy Dalmatian/rescue with heavy patching, super light lemon, or deafness)
- Greyhound (Preferably from a Rescue/Rehab Program)
- Italian Greyhound
- Alaskan Klee Kai/Alaskan Mini-Huskey
- Beagle (I have my little Buddy now though so I don't think another Beagle could replace him in my heart but i thought I should put them on this list since I love him so much)
Cats
- Aegean
*I had one before (RIP Taffy) They are a classic/common cat breed (because of lots of inter-breeding on the greek islands they originate from) with a good disposition.
- Abyssinian (Preferably Silver or Blue, maybe Lilac, cause I like that Ticked Coat)
- Singapura
- Savannah Cat (Preferred Colors Silver or Black but mostly I’d like to get a rescue especially since among the F1 & F2s there are a lot of infertility problems)
Rodents
- Dwarf Hotot
- Mini Satin Rabbit (Preferred Colors; Himalayan/Californian, Siamese, Otter Lilac, or Silver Martin Lilac)
- Flemish Giant Rabbit (Preferred Colors White &/or Black)
- Chinchilla (Preferably 2 Female and Preffered Color Morph is White Violet but I would also love Ebony White or a TouchOfVelvet of something) *I would get 2 for better socialization as they don’t like to be alone*
× Note I don’t know much about Rats, Mice, or Hamsters and so wouldn’t want to think about keeping any at this time but that may change
Snakes
- Corn Snake
~ Scaleless Lavender
~ Classic Lavender (but I would also love a Platinum, Orchid, Moonstone, or Opal Classic)
*Anery Palmetto (this is also a beautiful snake which I would love to have if the above were not available)
- Ball Python (this one is a maybe as they have specific humidity requirements and also don’t like to be handled too much, plus occasional feeding strikes, but they are super adorable and over all good tempered)
× Note while I also love Camelions & Frogs I have to consider additional caging demands like with the BP
Parrots (Macaws Specifically Preference Order Listed)
- Ruby Macaw - A beautiful hybrid of the Green Winged Macaw and the Scarlet Macaw (My top precious bird)
- Scarlet &/or Green Wing Macaws
- Flame Macaw Hybrid
- Starlight Macaw Hybrid
*I would also love to assist in a Macaw Preservation Program if I could get a Breeding Pair of Hyacinth Macaws, Blue-Throated Macaws, or Red-fronted Macaws who are most at risk of extinction because of over-capture and habitat destruction (Have a little flock going like in nature where depending on the sub-species a flock can be 2 or 3 to a couple hundred) No matter what I would get 2 so they are not solely dependant on me for company*
Horses
While I have some favored breeds I would prefer a well tempered horse good for beginners, perhaps a rehabilitated/rescued horse. 3 Breeds I would love to have eventually though are as follows
- Thoroughbred
- Shetland Pony
- Siciliano Indigeno (The tricky one to get because they can only be bred in Sicily but I do so love Heritage Breeds)
- Miniature Horse (not the same as shetlands and I love them for it)
Animal Updates!
Birds
- Pigeons
I’d probably get a Tumbler or a Homing Pigeon because they are the most common and easiest to start with pigeon-wise
(I’ve been researching birds and bird rescues lately and I’ve fallen in love with the idea of Fancy* Grade Pigeons as pets! Some breeds I love!)
~Mookee ~Clean-Legged Ice
~English Fantail ~Nun
~Polish Orlik ~Stargard Shaker
~Frillback ~Modena
~Magpie ~Archangel
~Cauchois ~Budapest Highflyer
~Lucerne Gold Coller
~Thuringian Colour Pigeons
~Yellow-Footed Green
- Doves
they have a lot incommon genetically with pigeons the greatest differences being size and sometimes social behavior & two best starter breeds that I just adore are
~Ring-Necked Dove (the one you think of when you think “Dove” is this one but with a White Morph)
~Diamond Dove
- Ducks
chickens are great and all but ducks and geese have always had a special place in my heart
~“Golden” Buff Orpington - good disposition, pretty, and a good egg layer
~Cayuga - good disposition, not super loud, and beautiful
~Swedish - great egg layer, pretty, but it’s a better flock addition than a starter
~Call Ducks - cute, good disposition, not too loud, and fair egg layers
Goats
- Nigerian Dwarf - good disposition, good milk producer, and super cute
- Pygmy - good disposition, super cute, and great horse companion (Horses’ can have anxiety problems which can be lessened by contact with other farm animals and Pygmy goats are often used by horse owners as stable friends!)
There are a lot of goat rescues specifically for these breeds as well!
Cows
- Mini-Jersey - actually the original breed (the "big" Jersey Cows were selectively bred from this breed to be bigger) they are small, good milkers, and have a good disposition + cute
- Zebu - Little Affrican-Buffalo-looking hump children, Great Milkers, rare birthing difficulties, good breeding community (also I'd love to try using their milk for traditional mozzarella)
Sheep (breed to come)
Alpaca (why not)
OTHER
- Ferrets (colors I like are Chocolate, Cinnamon, Albino, Black-Eyed White, Marked White, Silver and even classic Sable are so beautiful) *2 for ferrets is also for the best*
- Sugar Gliders (I would prefer 2 females and again a number of color morphs stick out to me Cremino (Albino), Leuistic, Strawberry/Red, Platinum, and classic but I wouldn’t really mind any color like with greyhounds above) *You cannot get only 1 sugar glider and it is best to get the same sex or neutered unless you plan on breeding*
Honestly my perfect world would have me use my home as a sort of petting zoo/informational center about the animals I care for. Explain things about them to kids, do school shows etcetera, anything to inspire in the future generation the same deep love of animals that I have.
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revivedxfighter · 7 years
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Random tact about the mun meme
Send a ♠ for a mun fact.
Okay, when I was in high school through my early college years, I used to raise chickens. I was part of 4-H, so these chickens were show birds then retire as pets. My chores were mainly focused on chickens because I liked to spend time with them. I raised them to be used to being held, petted, and my birds for showmanship competitions were trained to perch on my shoulder. Most of the chickens were bantams, but a few were standard sizes. Most of my chickens were friendly, but there always one or two bad apples…
One of them is Hans.
Hans was a buff orpington rooster and one of the few standard size birds I had. I raised him since he was a chick. He was so sweet, but then he started to get mean growing up. He would peck my hand, but I didn’t get him to stop doing that. I thought it was just because Hans was growing. I considered it his “teen-phase” since he was molting and he would learn to be nicer. 
He did not.
As an adult, Hans would attack not just me and my family, but the other chickens too. The others were okay, mainly because we moved Hans to his own separate pen. I used to live in this old farmhouse in the country. We had this massive backyard, so there was plenty of room for our animals. I had a large pen and hen house for the chickens. Hans had to be put in a pen by himself since he would attack whatever moves. 
Now this was also a dangerous choice. Someone would come into his pen every day to give him food and change his water. Hans will not hesitate to run after this person who comes into his territory and shank you. I can tell you from personal experience that spurs hurt. So what my family had to do is bring a laundry basket. 
This is what we did to protect ourselves. The first step is you would have to bring a laundry basket into the pen. If you’re quick enough, turn the basket upside-down and place it over him. This pisses Hans off, but it would buy you time to take care of him. Once you’re done, you carefully move the basket away from him, then you have to back away while holding the basket.
This basket becomes your shield and you would have to get out and fast. Why? Because once his fiery, beady eyes are set on you, he will run. He will run straight towards you and you have 20 seconds at most to get out in one piece. 
I never understood why Hans was so mean. I loved him and took care of him since he was a chick. Most of my roosters were pretty friendly. We only had two roosters that became evil, which we still kept despite their behavior. Major was a Cornish game rooster who used to chase people, but that’s about it. Hans…He was determined to attack any unfortunate soul in his territory. He would cackle when he shanks you with his spurs. Proudly crows when we run for our lives. I love chickens. I love roosters, and I adore Hans. But he was kind of a sadist.
Now don’t take this as testimony that all roosters are bad. They are not. In fact, they can be pretty docile and affectionate. I seen numerous accounts of roosters being awesome in every way.  My other roosters were very sweet. Oscar was one of my best show birds and he never attacked anyone in his life. So don’t let roosters scare you. 
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myteeplus · 4 years
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Official Crazy Chicken Lady shirt
Official Crazy Chicken Lady shirt
Went to TSC, said, “give me the tiniest 6,” raised them in a tote in the house, leg banded them, held and pet them daily, made behavior notes based on leg band color, kept top 2, gave 4 to local Amish, now have 2 Buff Orpingtons that are well trained to come when rang, come when called, and cuddle when I sit in a chair. Official Crazy Chicken Lady shirtfree-range outside and visit visitors to our…
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josephkitchen0 · 5 years
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A Guide to Cold-Hardy Chicken Breeds
What makes a cold-hardy chicken breed and why should you care? If you're currently living in an area that has cold winters, then cold-hardy chicken breeds are a must because of their ability to withstand the frigid temperatures. Every year there are stories of folks that bought the wrong breed for their climate and experience losses, have unhealthy chickens, or end up bringing their birds inside where the climate is more moderate. Don’t let this happen to you! Make sure to pick a breed that will live comfortably in your climate and thrive. Your birds will thank you for it!
A Golden-Laced Wyandotte with a full body, heavy feathering and small comb and wattles. 
What Makes a Cold-Hardy Chicken Breed? Cold-hardy chicken breeds have features that allow them to survive in cold weather. These adaptations are designed to keep them warm and reduce frostbite. Once you're aware of these features, you'll notice them right away.
Thick, heavy feather cover.
Small combs and wattles — less likely to get frostbite.
Some have feathered legs and feet. 
A full body — makes for a great dual-purpose (eggs and meat) bird. 
Winter Chicken Behavior While we find cold weather to be a pain, our birds often adjust quite well. Chickens do change their behavior in winter to better stay warm. In winter you’ll find your birds will roost closer together creating lots of body heat. You’ll also find them hunkering down on their roosts making sure their legs and feet are tucked under for extra heat and protection. Many birds will fluff their feathers keeping body heat closer to the skin. Winter Chicken Coop Maintenance While it’s always important to make sure your coop is clean and dry, it’s key in winter. Moisture build up, from dripping waterers and excrement, can lead to high levels of ammonia which can damage your chicken’s lungs. Also, excess moisture leads to chicken frostbite. Make sure your coop is not drafty but does have ventilation allowing moisture to escape. And, for cold-hardy chickens with feathered legs and feet, make sure they have a place to get those feathers dry. Otherwise, those areas are more prone to frostbite with wet, frozen feathers. Frostbite can happen in a matter of minutes, so make sure to monitor your birds and their environment.
A Buff Brahma hen.
Popular Cold-Hardy Chicken Breeds
Australorp 
Brahma 
Buckeye 
Cochin
Delaware
Dominique
Easter Egger
Jersey Giant
Naked Neck
New Hampshire Red
Orpington
Plymouth Rock
Rhode Island Red
Salmon Faverolles
Sex Link
Sussex
Welsummer
Wyandotte
What breeds have you found that are cold hardy in your area? Any favorites? Please let me know in the comments below!
Black Australorp hen.
A Guide to Cold-Hardy Chicken Breeds was originally posted by All About Chickens
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makenna-made-this · 10 months
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My mom: i miss having a dog in the house :(
My overly friendly buff orpington: say less
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makenna-made-this · 9 months
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Take off in 5, 4, 3, 2...
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NYOOM
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