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ethergreywater · 2 years

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Goodbye! Issey Miyake.

Text by Makoto. Li

Go through your wardrobe, and there's always that one frilly garment. Practical and poetic, Issey Miyake's work became a cornerstone of contemporary clothing, shaking up the foundations of Parisian salons in the 1980s with bold proportions and experimental textiles while enriching everyday wardrobes with artful cuts and signature ruffles. Issey Miyake has spent the last 50 years reinforcing his design themes: textures, shapes, fabrics, proportions and techniques. He blends these themes with a balance of his Eastern and Western heritage. Issey Miyake often refers to his Western experience but never forgets his Eastern roots, creating a different world for his clothes. Although he officially retired from fashion in 1997, he continues to oversee the creative direction of all his collections. He has created a textile innovation lab focused on sustainability, launching collections such as Issey Miyake, Issey Miyake Fête, Pleats Please and the accessories branch Bao Bao.

'Twist’ by Issey Miyake, 1992.

Issey Miyake: AW1985 Collection.

‘Pleats Please Issey Miyake’ Travel Through Africa. AW1997.

Born in Hiroshima on 22 April 1938, Kazunaru Miyake (also pronounced Issey in Japanese writing, meaning a life) initially wanted to be an athlete or a dancer, which perhaps explains his emphasis on flexible sports. However, his sister worked for a fashion magazine, which eventually inspired him to change. He later studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo and, after graduating in 1964, entered a fashion competition at the Bunka Fashion Institute. Still, his pioneering patternmaking and sewing skills did not win Miyake an award. Shortly afterwards, he joined the Haute Couture Guild in Paris and became an apprentice to Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy, working at a rate of 50 to 100 sketches daily. After a short stay in New York, he met artists such as Christo and Robert Rauschenberg, and in 1970, on his return to Tokyo, he founded the Issey Miyake Design Studio.

Issey Miyake: Poster for SS1995 Collection MINARET, via Weekly Asahigraph.

In 1973, Issey Miyake moved his fashion shows to Paris, where he continues to present his collections twice a year. "East meets West" was his definition of this transcontinental approach, fascinated by the richness and practicality of Japanese craftsmanship, Western youth culture and the glamour of European haute couture (in particular, he drew inspiration from French fashion designers Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Grés, who was known for her own frilly clothes). In 1978, Issey Miyake released a book entitled East meets West - the only retrospective of a living designer at the time - introduced by American Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. She wrote: "Paris has a soft spot for people who are productive, have good taste and give their best from the heart. Miyake is most welcome in Paris."

Issey Miyake; tube dress (ss1984).

Issey Miyake: Abura-gami Coat, SS1984.

Issey Miyake: Wire Mannequins for the Issey Miyake A-UN Exhibition, 1988.

Looking back on Miyake's formative years, he had good reason to feel pain and anger. When the atomic bomb fell, he was a seven-year-old boy riding his bicycle in Hiroshima. Such experiences left deep invisible scars on his upbringing, such as his mother's death from radiation three years later and his own replacement of bone marrow disease at the age of 10 due to radiation. But unlike other designers who, amid trauma, choose self-anaesthesia, suicide or the narcissistic need to crave unlimited attention (or all three in one), Miyake chooses to drown out the pain with joy. This pleasure is translated into waves of clothing that swell and shrink with a seemingly endless fascination and entertainment, and ...... also comfortable, as anyone who has worn his Pleats Please collection will know.

Issey Miyake: Dancer from the Frankfurt Ballet in Pleats, 1991.

Like Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake was a leading figure on the Japanese design scene and struggled to gain a foothold in the 1980s. During this period, Issey Miyake began experimenting with 'pleats'. The fabric's ability to hold a crease, perfect for dancers and the 300 pieces Miyake sent to the Frankfurt Ballet inspired him to develop the Pleats Please collection in 1999. 10 years later, Miyake launched his menswear line Homme Plissé, which united performers, gallerists, musicians and fashionistas in a group that sought waist elasticity, comfort and craftsmanship. Today, the process of making these Seihin ruffles can still be witnessed at the Homme Plissé flagship shop in Minami-Aoyama, Japan.

Intelligence, humanism and an obsession with technology

In a 2008 interview, Issey Miyake said, "I gravitate towards the field of clothing design, partly because it is a modern and optimistic form of creation. And I prefer to think about things that can be created, rather than destroyed, that can bring beauty and joy." It's a design ethos seen in both black turtlenecks (as Steve Jobs' uniform) and in the flying saucer dresses and minimalist cloud-like columns of the '90s and '00s. In 2016, Issey Miyake told The Guardian: "We call the people who make the clothes costume designers - -they develop new clothing items; but actually, design and make things that work in real life."Issey Miyake does not consider himself a fashion designer. Instead, he is influenced by many disciplines, including architecture, the cross-fertilisation of cultures, and modern art and environmental issues. His proven creative output is dedicated to "making things, products that people like and can wear freely". It is a relatively simple slogan for someone who is technically original, experimental and soulful.

Tattoo collection, Issey Miyake, 1970, photographed by Kishin Shinoyama, AMICA 1970.

Rather than following the flamboyant and fleeting trends of seasonal fashions, Issey Miyake's garments habitually explore the relationship between a piece of cloth and the body, and the resulting space, utilising both traditional and avant-garde methods of craftsmanship in the process. Above all, his garments often raise critical questions about pressing issues - from moral awareness to hedonism and ethnic diversity. Take, for example, the 'Tattoo' flesh-coloured jumpsuit from spring/summer 1971, which is heavily printed and was designed by Issey Miyake after he founded his eponymous label [Miyake Design Studio (MDS)] in Tokyo in 1970 as a physical expression of freedom, by presenting a free It is an expression of the free body, by giving the 'second skin' of space, placing the importance on the wearer rather than the garment itself.

Scandinavian Wool Jacket by Issey Miyake, 1995.

Miyake works in the traditional Japanese way of "making things" while creating clothes from his inspiration. Whenever I see his work, I am always surprised. Why? Because his work is based on the philosophy of "everyday life". In fact, this drive to provide wearable solutions for modern life emphasises that the free form of the body is made up of very few seams. As he recalls, after witnessing the violent May Revolution protests in Paris in the late 1960s, "I was determined not to make clothes for a limited group of rich people, but to make clothes like jeans and T-shirts that everyone could have, that could be easily washed and worn. "

Issey Miyake: Pleats Please in China (Picture by Yuriko Takagi).

PLEATS PLEASE from the exuberant finale of the ISSEY MIYAKE Spring/Summer 1994 collection show in Paris (Picture by Philippe Brazil).

Issey Miyake: Pleats Please (Picture by Francis Giacobetti).

This motive is best expressed in the PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE. Launched in 1993, the collection is made entirely from heat-treated pleated polyester fabric, cut without thread, scissors or needles, but by a pioneering "hot machine". Pleating is one of the oldest methods of making garments that adapt to the body, as you know. Issey Miyake has created a modern metamorphosis of the pleat, making it both aesthetically pleasing and comfortable and practical (not to mention easy to care for). This iconic use of wrinkles and the abstraction of simple silhouettes have become an essential expression of Issey Miyake's design philosophy, a rare design concept in today's fashion world.

Design as discovery

Experimentation is a crucial principle of Issey Miyake's aesthetic, achieved through a stimulating blend of ancient and pioneering techniques. For example, for the Spring/Summer 1981 piece 'Rattan Body', Issey Miyake invited Japanese artisan Shochikudo Kosuge to develop a surprisingly hard-wearing structure crafted from rattan and bamboo. Not only did this demonstrate a harmonious dialogue between the traditions of Eastern artisans and contemporary Western fashion, but it was also the first garment ever to appear on the cover of the contemporary art publication Artforum.

Coat of Abura Gami by Issey Miyake, 1984.

Issey Miyake's signature is as varied as it is clear: he has used nylon thread and silicone, as well as Aburagami (oil-impregnated paper for parasols) and Sashiko (processed cotton). His avant-garde clothes often proved impractical for everyday wear. They were impossible to wear without instructions, but on the other hand, he delighted the fashion world with "Pleats Please", which came from his chic answer to jeans and T-shirts.

Similarly, A-POC (short for A Piece Of Cloth) is based on Issey Miyake's credo of making designs from just one piece of cloth to wrap the body. It all started in 1997 with the Just Before collection, where garments were made from 100-metre-long tubes of fabric into which the shapes and patterns of the designs had been woven, and the raw materials were fed into computer-programmed industrial weaving machines to produce a series of continuously connected tubular knitted dresses or shirts. Each garment can be cut out in various ways, allowing the user to mould the garment to their own whims. As Issey Miyake says, "The wearer still has a say in the design. A-POC is like a baguette - you buy it entirely and cut it into the shape you want. I try to experiment and make fundamental changes to the system of making clothes. Think about it. A thread goes into a machine using the latest computer technology to generate the complete garment and removes the need to cut and sew fabric normally required." It's an operation that has fundamentally turned the traditional way of thinking about garment manufacturing on its head and continues to develop even more possibilities. Furthermore, being a technical feat, A-POC virtually eliminates fabric waste throughout the process and aptly demonstrates Issey Miyake's focus on eco-consciousness and sustainability.

The appeal of collaboration

Creative alliances with different artists have proved invaluable to Issey Miyake, resulting in some of the most exciting pieces of his career. The bold autumn/winter 1976 'Paradise' shirt featured specially designed artwork by the famous painter Tadanori Yokoo. Meanwhile, the pleating mentioned above, which played a starring role in the previous exhibition, brought to life a modern poster of the late graphic designer Ikko Tanaka in the form of a kimono-style coat. Even the mannequins on display, made of latticed cardboard and transparent fibreglass with several textured coverings, were created in particular association with Tokujin Yoshioka.

Issey Miyake design by Irving Penn, 1990.

However, the most popular creative conversation at Miyake's previous exhibitions was a large video installation showing iconic fashion shoots by Issey Miyake and the late photographer Irving Penn. Issey Miyake first met Penn in 1983 when the influential photographer was assigned to shoot several of his mainline looks for a fashion story for American Vogue magazine, and Penn's unique perspective gave Issey Miyake a fresh air on his own designs, which led to him being asked to photograph his ready-to-wear collection for the next 13 years. Issey Miyake once explained their union, "I was looking for someone who could look at my clothes, listen to my voice, and answer me through his creations. Through his eyes, Penn reinterpreted the clothes, gave them a new vibe and showed them to me from a new perspective."

Clearly, Issey Miyake's commercial success has never shaken the design roots of this traditional brand. His groundbreaking pleated collection, first launched in 1989, remains a fashion must-have in every woman's and man's wardrobe in every season of the 21st century. An extreme fascination with industrial processes and manufacturing has thoroughly guided Miyake's fascination with futurism - the way each fabric and material is laid on the body and stacked on top of each other is intentional and purposeful, which explains why Issey Miyake is a pioneer of modern fashion. His curiosity is never satisfied.

Yohji Yamamoto had previously said that the ideal successor he had in mind had died, and that was Alexander McQueen. So, as this class of great designers ages and passes away, where is their next successor?

#Issey Miyake #A-POC #Irving Penn #Tadanori Yokoo #Tokujin Yoshioka #Ikko Tanaka #Aburagami #Sashiko #Pleats Please #Shochikudo Kosuge #Rattan Body

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jude-us · 6 months

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As a brown trans boy it sucked so badly to watch those “gender envy” slides on tik tok and see only white boys with fluffy hair. It was a little thing but it made me feel invisible even in my own community. So these are men that look like me and give me gender envy. If you’re POC disabled/ don’t see your self in common trans discussions feel free to add on.

#transgender #ftm #trans man #trans masc #trans poc #poc trans man #boyblogging

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prinnay · 3 months

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Wishes; Dreams

#artists on tumblr #shooting stars #might be the next artbook cover #rain and hope #poc artist

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chrispineofficial · 10 months

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can people with harry potter urls just not fucking follow me

#sorry if you felt the magic or whatever. it’s 2023 and trans people and jewish people and poc are suffering. get over it

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mysharona1987 · 4 months

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#Palestine #south africa #genocide #democrats #republicans #politics #israel #woc #poc #human rights #icj #donald trump

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chaiaurchaandni · 6 months

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does throwing a stone at a tank

make a child a terrorist?

is terrorism about resisting oppression? is terrorism about demanding your birthright to live safely and peacefully in your homeland? is terrorism about hating the killers of your family, your friends and your people?

accusations of terrorism are often weaponized against those fighting for liberation and sovereignty and dignity. the french settlers called the algerians terrorists. the indian government calls the kashmiris terrorists. the pakistani army calls pashtun activists terrorists. the turkish government calls the kurds terrorists. apartheid south africa called nelson mandela a terrorist. americans called the vietcong and the black panthers terrorists. the israelis call the palestinians terrorists. all oppressive regimes are connected. all oppressed people are connected. injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere.

#fares odeh #this is the justification that israel uses to imprison and kill palestinian children #accusations of terrorism are often weaponized against poc who fight for liberation #'wider impact: after odeh's picture became famous israeli tanks were told to start shooting at stone throwers' absolutely insane #free palestine #palestine #gaza #from the river to the sea palestine will be free #glory to the martyrs #long live palestine #death to israel #long live the resistance #save the children #palestinian resistance

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ibtisams · 4 months

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I don’t even care anymore. You’re either going to take a genocide happening right in front of you seriously or you’re going to let an entire country of innocent people be killed and in 20 years wonder what happened while you were silent

#some of you are sick and are fucked up for not being able to take a stance #news flash: you just don’t care about poc #🦢

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marleemutt · 1 month

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the sign 🏡❤️🐶🐶🐶🐶

#bluey #bluey cartoon #bluey fanart #bluey season 3 #bandit heeler #bingo heeler #chilli heeler #furry commission #furry #furry fandom #furry art #anthro #procreate animation #poc artist #black artist #artists on tumblr #open art commissions #my artwork

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boreal-sea · 9 months

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This thread is incredibly important to read.

It is also extremely difficult to read. I don't know if I need to point this out, but the document itself is obviously full of bigotry so please take care of yourself if you choose to read it. Antisemitic phrases like "cultural marxism" and "global elites" appear before the document even really gets rolling, and are mixed in with transphobia, racism, and more.

If you want a taste of how this document starts in the first main section about "The Family", here is a taste:

"This starts with deleting the terms sexual orientation and gender identity (“SOGI”), diversity, equity, and inclusion (“DEI”), gender, gender equality, gender equity, gender awareness, gender-sensitive, abortion, reproductive health, reproductive rights, and any other term used to deprive Americans of their First Amendment rights out of every federal rule, agency regulation, contract, grant, regulation, and piece of legislation that exists."

It is all bad. ALL of this document is bad, and dangerous, and threatens the lives and the safety of everyone living in this country.

#uspol #us politics #election 2024 #lgbtq #queer #transgender #feminism #intersectional feminism #trans rights #queer rights #lgbtq rights #social justice #poc rights #racial justice #civil rights

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troutreznor · 29 days

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anyways op had me blocked when i wanted to reblog this photo set and they didn't have a source on their post either so yknow i will provide for us all <3

Lil Nas X for The Neighborhood Talk

#at least that was the only source i could find actually oof #lil nas x #queer poc #gay #he's so pretty it's wild #im gonna post some more pics from his insta also

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zegalba · 1 year

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ISSEY MIYAKE Making Things Paris Exhibition (1999)

#issey miyake #making things #A-POC #exhibition #white #fashion #paris #1999

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suguruplsr · 2 months

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i feel like a small kink-that-isn’t-such-a-kink-but-i’m-calling-it-a-kink that kento has is watching you squirm from overstimulation.

specifically your hands during sex.

“move ‘em.” kento grits out, voice shaky as he fucks you from behind. you whine at his command, ignoring it and holding onto the blanket underneath you just a bit tighter. he watches how your fingers crunch the fluffy fabric, body trembling once he gives you a thrust that rubs your g-spot. you mewl, head falling onto the bed with a force on the back of it. his larger hand slides from your head down to your chin, turning it sideways against the bed. “what did i say sweetheart?” he mumbles, halting his movement. his soaked cock stays full into you, wet and sticky cum mushed around where you two meet. you whimper, trying to push back. his tip nudges where you need him, but your wanton moan is greeted with a spank of your ass.

“you’re not listening, hm?” kento quips, rubbing your hot ass cheek and leaning down. your back further arches, “s-sorry, just..” you try to explain yourself, but the teetering moans leaving you as his dick rocks into you do you no justice. “my baby’s so needy..” kento smiles, kissing the side of your cheek, his peppered kisses going down below your jaw, a slick of wetness in its wake. “c’mon sweetie, let go f’me.” he coos in your ear, fresh regal cologne filling your senses. you purse your lips, following his words obediently and letting your hands relax. you didn’t even realize how hard you had clutched onto the bed, hands aching a bit and fingers red.

swiftly, your face is turned straight into the blanket, hands pulled behind you and wrists locked by just one of your lover’s hands. without words, kento begins pounding your cunt how your need it, loud squelches and sounds of the mess that you two have made. your whines and moans fill kento’s head, his eyes stuck on how your ass jiggles with each thrust into you. the skin slowly brightening with juices that leave your soaping pussy. however, his view trails up, feeling your wiggling fingers scratch at his hand. god, you’re so cute. even if he can’t see your lewd expressions, he just knows you’re losing every bit of sobriety you had left, letting yourself go dumb on his cock. your fingers stretch before digging into his skin, but with the thick head of his cock angling just too good, they widen again, matching the sound of your higher moans. “please! please! please— make me cum!” your words rip through you, sobbing and shaking. kento groans, he can get used to studying you like this..

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fmhobeus · 2 months

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so, nerdy loser college boy choso *sighs* *opens legs*

a/n: just so you know, this man is gonna make you do all the hard work for a piece of that loser boy dick 😮‍💨 so... um so at some point around 2000 words in i realised this is way more than a hc post :3 eat it up if you will!

nerdy!choso who borderline has no friends except his gaming buddies who doesnt meet irl like ever. he doesnt like going to classes, especially this one. he doesnt need it but it's a requirement for all first years. and boy is glad it is when he sees you come in.

nerdy!choso who only listens to discussions when you're talking. suddenly he needs to put down his headphones and nod at every word you're saying. his eyes follow every gesture of your hand, every sway of your ass, every single time you fix your hair.

nerdy!choso who is starting to get a bit enamored with you, your style, your way of speaking. he loses track of time gawking at you in class from the last benches as you prettily do all the work in the class. he hates how beautifully your hair falls on your face, how nicely your clothes fit you despite being pretty modest for college. he hates how he can see the silhouette of your tits when you turn to the side. but he's too much of a gentleman to keep looking.

nerdy!choso who ends a game early when he remembers you, lying and saying that he had promised someone to meet them somewhere. the place is his bathroom and the person was you. god, you really shouldn't wear those tight jeans to class y'know? how will he continue to be a gentleman if you do?

nerdy!choso who despises groupwork but prays to dear god this class has some reason to pair you two together. he's getting so desperate to talk to you knowing damn well he too pussy to do it on his own. and the lord answers his prayers, the teacher assigns groups of three for a presentation. it's you, him and some slacking trust fund baby.

nerdy!choso who is about to combust and have a full blown panic attack when he sees you approach him after class with that smile on your face that would make the angels swoon. you're going on about distributing the work equally and what not while he is trying his fucking hardest to not accidently make eye contact with you and piss his pants : (

nerdy!choso who now has your name, your number and your email and he feels like the happiest man on earth. his hands are literally shaking as he responds to your request to call. he's overthinking every word he types.

choso: yeah i can do wednesday. choso: i'll be okay with whatever day you want.

nerdy!choso who hops on video call and short circuits with a view of you in an oversized band tee and a brief view of your room. why did you have to be this pretty? why did you have to video call him when you couldve done the work on text? why did you have to put your hair up like that? why oh why did you have you say "choso? hey, you there?" so seductively to bring him back to the present?

nerdy!choso who gets like no work done in a 30 minute call which felt like three hours. he knew he would hardly be paying attention so decided to record the call with your consent, saying he'd need the notes you were typing out on screen only to play it back and stroke his dick to you for what might've have been the twentieth time this week. his strokes only getting faster as you say his name in that voice he imagines sounds way better moaning and screaming it instead.

nerdy!choso who, after the presentation, is on greeting terms with you when he sees you studying in the library. he sits as far away from you as he can while still being able to see you. occupying the coziest corner of the library to stare at you study right when you come up to him.

"can i join you, choso? i'm all alone and your space seems comfy" you say with a smile, "of course, i dont mean to disturb you, is saw you were on your own too, so..."

uh oh, uh oh, uh oh. god no. please no. please dont say yes. please dont be staring at her like some dumb idiot (too late) please.

"uh... yeah sure why not?" he awkwardly says as he makes room for you to keep your things. he was such an idiot for thinking he could say no to your pretty face in the first place.

nerdy!choso who is absolutely drunk on your scent. it feels way better than any alcohol he's ever had. he feels like an animal in heat when he smells your sugary perfume mixed with the styrofoam-y air conditioned smell of the library. you're gonna kill him, yknow? how is he supposed to respond to this? what is one to do when their stupid college crush sits next to them? he gives you a half smile before furiously typing away on reddit, the only place with answers for losers like him.

nerdy!choso whose hands. oh his hands. (can be i a big whore for a second?) his long hands that feel like they're the size of your face. his kempt, beautiful and trimmed nails. his lengthy fingers that seem to yearn for something more to foddle with than just the keyboard or controller. he typed as such an insane pace it made your pussy ache. he was going so fast, jesus. those hands were meant to do more than just ask "how to talk to girls" on reddit.

nerdy!choso who (on the advice of reddit) asks if you would want him to order something for you. you tell you had a frappuccino not too long ago and that it was quite sweet and filling. and he hates himself for thinking that he could give you something much sweeter and filling than that like a horny fourteen year old.

nerdy!choso who is now determined to not come off as a creep so he does his work with the focus of four adderalls. he is typing as fast as his heartbeat, not realising he got two classes worth of work done in just an hour. he looks over at you, blissfully unaware of the absolute war in his mind.

nerdy!choso who feels as though if he doesn't muster up the courage to ask you out right then and there, he'll probably be the biggest loser on the planet. (as if he wasn't already)

nerdy! pathetic! choso who stutters a million times and barely gets the job done then too. his eyes are scanning your entire being (trying his best to not gawk at your tits) for any sign of discomfort.

"so- uhh so ummm... wo-would you, like, uh... like to do this again? sometime?... i got a.. a lot of work done today, so.."

oh heavens, the sheer nervousness in his tone makes you want to pull his pants down and show him how to really get work done.

you agree with a smile, even suggesting a better, more ambient (more romantic) cafe to study in. choso's heart is about to burst and flood the fucking library with his blood the way it is beating at an alarming rate.

"umm yeah uh 5 sounds... awesome... i hope it isn't a-a bother to you?" "no way, choso. i loved today," you offer him a smile as you gather your things, "i really like your hair, by the way" "i like your hair too, y-y-you smell very nice", he gulps.

fuck. why did he say that? what? you smell nice? who says that? is he like ten? you can't help but giggle at the sheer embarassment on his face.

he feels as though he's gonna melt into a puddle and turn to stone and throw up all at the same time.

nerdy!choso who is the most stupidly hot guy you've ever met, you think as you go giggling back to your dorm. mental note: pick a skimpy outfit for 5pm ;)

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