Aaaaaah!!! I did it!! The first time I managed to close the gaps and not get confused while knitting in the round!! Isn't it cute?? I tried so many times and now I found a video that explained the stuff I have to look out for in a way I could follow!!
It's a circle!! Not overly pretty but it's a first try!
Yarn: store-bought sock yarn (75% virgin wool/25% polyamide, machine washable at 40°C). Feels terrible on my fingers and triggers my misophonia on my cheap needles so I'll probably donate it. I've much better yarns now ^-^
So.... Socks soon? Or first fingerless gloves?
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Sion Reliquary Bag
Lady Áshildr inn Hárfagri
November 6, 2021
presented at axeman xvi
Summary
Knitting is an old form of textile production, with extant knitted artifacts dated to the 11th century. Our earliest examples of knitting are intricate, well-made pieces made with a mastery indicating a much earlier date of origin. The earliest knit pieces found in Europe are dated to the 13th century in Spain and Estonia. Five knitted purses were found in Sion, Switzerland dated to the 14th century. Knit in silk thread, in the round, and with a "fair isle" type multicolor patterning, these purses have been reproduced and studied by many artisans of the SCA. In this reproduction, I knitted a bag based on Sion relic-purse I, substituting mercerized cotton crochet thread at a larger gauge and to different dimensions to achieve a specific purpose.
Introduction
I have wanted to participate in Arts & Sciences for some time, but could not bring myself to put in the effort necessary for a project just for me. So in true Legion of Swashbucklers fashion, I determined the ultimate means to drum up the effort for a documentable A&S project would be a gift for the Queen of Ansteorra, Her Royal Majesty Elizabeth I, using my experience with knitting.
Knitting as we know it originated sometime before the 11th century, with our earliest artifacts being knitted short row heel socks from Egypt (Tissus d'Égypte). The earliest known knitted artifacts outside Egypt were knitted cushion covers and gloves belonging to Prince Fernando de la Cerda, some time before 1275CE (Rutt).
Five knitted purses were found in Sion, Switzerland dated to the 14th century, first described by Brigitta Schmedding (Schmedding). These bags are knitted from the top down from silk thread, closed with a three-needle bind off, and used two to three colors at a time to make a pattern. Each bag seems to be closed with a fingerloop braid and have a fingerloop braid strap.
I made this bag once before for HE Sara Asshton of York in the 2020 Sable Swap (pictured in Appendix A) and used lessons learned from that project to improve my approach to this project.
Method / Design
For the construction of this bag, I used Aunt Lydia's Classic 10 Crochet Thread in Dark Royal, Golden Yellow, White, and Black on Hiya Hiya US0 2mm double pointed needles.
I used double pointed needles as they are depicted in early "knitting Madonna" paintings such as Master Bertram of Minden's Visit of the Angel, dated to the 15th c and shown below.
Most "knitting Madonna" paintings seem to depict a 3-and-1 arrangement of double pointed needles, with the stitches spread evenly across three needles with one working needle, but I opted to use a 4-and-1 arrangement to better divide my stitches across much shorter, modern needles.
I used mercerized crochet cotton in place of silk for cost and durability concerns. As this bag is to be a gift for HRM Elizabeth, I want it to be a bag she can use and clean without fear of damaging delicate silk or expensive fibers. From prior experience knitting with both cotton and with silk, my joints and fingers suffered far worse with the silk than with the cotton. Because the readily available cotton (Classic 10) is a greater weight than the original silk, I used larger needles and produced a larger gauge than the original item. My gauge worked out to be 5 stitches/cm and 5 rows/cm as opposed to the 7 rows/cm and 5-6 stitches/cm according to Schmedding (using Knytir's translation). T
I cast on the project on August 9 with 14 repeats of the 12 stitch pattern, preferring the Sion I Chart interpretation in DesMoines's pattern to the chart in Lady Tola Knityr's interpretation. Progress pictures found in appendix B. The bag is only made long enough to hold a large phone, and as such does not have the number of rows or requisite tassels that the reliquary bag has.
There is a noticeable difference in gauge from the bottom to the top of the bag. The original is consistent throughout and bound off with a 3 needle bind off. Midway through production I found my gauge with 3-strand colorwork improving, which unfortunately changed the overall gauge. I chose to reverse the construction of the bag such that the firmest, most accurate gauge is at the top of the bag which will receive the most stress from the ties. The loose gauge at the beginning of the project is the result of knowing how an uneven but too-tight gauge makes colorwork "pucker" in an unsightly fashion, and that floats too loose but unseen on the back side of the product are typically more tolerable than too-tight floats with puckering.
Ends are left untrimmed inside the bag to allow repair options, as the cotton is slippery and I do not trust its ability to stick to itself should I simply weave in the ends and trim. If this bag begins to unravel, I wish to fix it.
The fingerloop braid closure is left off pending the presentation of the gift to the recipient, as it affects the fabric and if she has no interest in the drawstring closure there seems no point in needlessly altering the fabric itself.
Conclusion
If I ever try to knit 3 strand color work again, throw this paper at me.
Bibliography
DesMoines, Anne. Reliquary Style Pouches.
(downlaoded May 2020)
Knytir, Tola. Sion Knitted Purse.
(accessed November 1, 2021). Found in part here
20-knit-purses-in-14thc-switzerland/
Rutt, Richard. A History of Handknitting. Interweave, 1987.
Schmedding, Brigitta. Mittelalterliche Textilien in Kirchen Und KloÌstern Der
Schweiz: Katalog. Bern: StaÌmpfli, 1978
Tissus d'Égypte: témoins du monde arabe, VIIIe. - XVe. siècles. Collection
Bouvier, Exposition 1993-1994, Musée d'art et d'histoire à Genève. 1994,
Institut du monde arabe à Paris.
APPENDIX A
APPENDIX B
August 10, 2021
October 15, 2021
October 20, 2021
October 28, 2021
Blocking the Final Product October 28, 2021
Thank you for reading this kthxbai
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Joining knitting in the round - cheat sheet
I'm putting this here so that I don't have to rewatch the videos* every time I want to knit something in the round. These are my instructions to myself: I don't know if they will make sense to anyone else. I join in the round by slipping over an extra stitch. Also I use the travelling magic loop method because it eliminates any tension problems that come with regular magic loop at the change from one needle to the next.
Cast on one more stitch than the pattern calls for.
Split CO stitches in half on cable, pulling a loop of cable out in the middle.
Slide the first/oldest half of the stitches up onto L needle.
Split the three most recent CO stitches (with the working yarn coming out of the end) from the rest, creating a second loop of cable.
Slide those three most recent stitches up onto the R needle, leaving the rest of the stitches on the cable. Try to make sure your stitches aren't twisted.
Slip first CO stitch pw from the L needle onto the R needle.
Pass most recent CO stitch (with the working yarn coming out of it) over the slipped stitch.
Tighten stitch by pulling on working yarn.
Place start of round marker (with the travelling magic loop method, the start of round wanders around).
Make sure your stitches aren't twisted.
Start knitting!
*I learned the extra-stitch method from Nimble Needles and the travelling magic loop method from Arnall-Culliford.
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