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#grapto sedum
ghostlyfoliage · 2 years
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I decided to deal with some of the props... and chop and prop all of the gangly succulents. They're awkward now, but it's a better aesthetic frankly.
I'm half-tempted to take these outside this summer (many of them need it, tbh), but hardening plants off to outdoor sun is a pain. I have started to supplement their light, and I've gotten some of them to start blushing but it still isn't enough to get their full colors nor stop many of the Echeverias, Sedums, Graptos, and Pachys from etoliating.
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meandmyphals · 6 years
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15:38 23/01/2018 Perfect graptosedum. One of my favorite colours. 🍂
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kleptoplante · 4 years
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P a s t e l
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Did a little cleaning & reorganizing 🌿
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chashikuro · 7 years
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多肉ちゃんs 投稿エラーが多いのはあいぽんのせいなのかルーターのせいなのか サーバーのせいなのか…(−_−;) 前記事と一緒に投稿した筈なんだけどなー
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catplantbird-lady · 5 years
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a current list of all of my plants...1.4.19
🌱🌵🌿
Adiantum aethiopicum - Maidenhair Fern
Adiantum pedatum - Northern Maidenhair/Five-Finger Fern
Agastache "Blue Fortune" - Blue Giant Hyssop
Aloe aristata - Lace Aloe
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Aloe barbadensis - Aloe Vera
Begonia aconitifolia - Cane Begonia
Chlorophytum comosum - Spider Plant
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Coffea arabica - Coffee Plant
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Crassula ovata - Standing Jade
Crassula ovata - Trailing Jade
Echeveria affinis - Dark Knight
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Echeveria elegans - Grey/Red Echeveria
Echeveria nodulosa - Echeveria Nodulosa
Echeveria subsessilis - Blue Echeveria
Ficus elastica - Rubber Plant
Gasteria carinata - Gasteria Carinata
Graptopetalum amethystinum - Fat Beans
Graptopetalum paraguayense - Ghost Plant
Graptoveria amethorum - Amethyst Grapto
Gymnocalycium mihanovichii friedrichii - Moon Cactus, grafted
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Haworthia dentata - Haworthia
Haworthia floribunda - Haworthia
Haworthia attenuata - Zebra Haworthia
Juncus spiralis - Spiral Juncus
Kalanchoe hybrid "Behartii" - Bunny Ears
Saintpaulia ionantha - African Violet
Schlumbergera bridgesii - Christmas Cactus
Sedeveria "Jet Beads" hybrid - Black beans
Sedum rubrotinctum - Trailing Beans
Sedum rupestre - Stonecrop
Sedum stahili - Mini Trailing Beans
Sempervivum - Hen & Chick
Sempervivum arachnoideum "Rubrum" - Spiderweb Hen & Chick
Tillandsia fasciculata - Air Plant
Tillandsia recurvata- Ball Moss
Tillandsia recurvata - Spanish Moss
Polystichum munitum - Sword/Christmas/Holly Fern
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jacculents · 6 years
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Before and after of my haworthia. (ID unknown, anyone help? :’D 
Believe it or not, they are the same haworthia that I featured many years back in an article I wrote regarding root trimming: https://jacculents.tumblr.com/post/109584995116/roots-trimming-is-extremely-important-for
I strongly advise trimming off old roots because they seriously do no shit at all but clogging up your succulents root regrowth and host unwanted rot. 
Signs a succulent needs a root trim/ repot: 1) Stunted growth for weeks or even months. 2) Dehydrated/ flimsy leaves even after watering. It is not getting any water because its roots are not doing their job well. 3) Dry, tough potting mix. Like if you could pull out your whole succulent together with all the soil in the same pot, and its roots firmly grasping them. That would be a sign that your succulent needs more soil, and a bigger pot to grow bigger and faster! 4) If your succulents have been staying at the same home for more than a year. Soil and potting mix tend to get clogged up after some time (especially perlite), and it would be real bad for the roots. 
Signs a succulent does NOT need a root trim/ repot: 1) Strong, fresh, white, juicy healthy roots. If you pulled a succulent out and it had fresh roots, you wouldn’t need to do anything with it. If it had some dried flimsy roots at the ends of its roots, it would be best if you could trim those dried parts off, leave it to dry at a shaded area and replant it back after a week or two. 2) Certain species CANNOT take a root trim. For example the sempervivums and aeoniums. I only trim my echeverias, graptos, haworthias, and cacti. Sedums grow so quickly they don’t need trimming. 3) It’s growing well and quick with fleshy plump leaves.
Advantages of root trim/ repot: 1) New roots = yay water! = yas faster growth! 2) Longer lasting succulents 3) Hardier and healthier, and thus less pest!
Also a reminder that pest might be the one munching up your succulents roots, so take note!
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plantanarchy · 7 years
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Here's some wee babies doing their best. I don't think that Kalanchoe will be able to survive off the leaf thanks to no chlorophyll. All the accidental props from that plant are like that. Also the fuzzy Echeveria propagates so easily I love E. pulvinata so much. Then the next is a Jellybean sedum that is precious, some sad other sedums, and some kind of grapto something whose leaf I found at work.
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succulents4life · 7 years
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Another question for you today : can you tell me what the bottom plant is on your cover picture ? The one with the flowerheads kind of flat... thx !
The purple one??? I think graptosedum or grapto something! The orange plant is a golden sedum :)
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ghostlyfoliage · 4 years
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I got them all potted today. Some of these had way bigger roots than I expected. Having to transfer the Watch Chain Crassula to a 3in pot honestly made me kinda proud.
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ghostlyfoliage · 4 years
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I need to get around to transferring more of these into 2inch pots 🤷‍♂️ At least my Orostachys are starting to look more like themselves and less like funky Sedums.
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ghostlyfoliage · 3 years
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I made a wishlist of plants I'd still like to have. There's no bromeliad on it cus I can never decide on one but someday I'll probably buy the first dark colored one I see.
I already have a ton of plants. Someday my house is going to be a jungle.
🌿 Upright Ect 🌿
Peacock Ginger (Kaempferia)
Aglaonema Tricolor
Calathea - Warcewiczii , Zebrina, Manatra (green, minature?), Velvet
Dieffenbachia Reflector
Alocasia - Baginga ("Dragon Scale" / Silver), Reginula ("Black Velvet"), "Maharani'
Anthurium (Black or White), Crystallinum?
Australian Tree Fern
Plectranthus Tomentosa ("Vick's Plant"), Purple Swedish Ivy
Banana (Dwarf Cavendish "Grand Nain", Tiger Stripe?)
Persian Shield
🌿 Vines Ect 🌿
Monstera - Deliscioso, Siltepecana, Peru
Pellionia Pulchra (aka Polynesian Ivy)
Philodendron - Melanochrysum, Verrucosum, ect
Alsobia Dianthiflora
Baltic Ivy
Cissus Discolor
Jade Satin Scindapsus
Dioscorea Discolor!
Rhaphidophora tetrasperma
🌿 Epiphytes & Lithophytes 🌿
Peperomia - Prostrata ("String of Turtles"), "Peacock"/"Peppermill", "Fuzzy Mystery"
Hoya - Finlaysonii, Pubicalyx, "Sunrise", Holyneura ("Fishtail")
Macodes Petola (Lightning Orchid)
Paphiopedilum (Spotted Orchid)
Airplants - Xerographica, Spanish Moss, Kautskyi, Aeranthos ("teddy bear")
🌿 Succulents 🌿
Kalanchoe Humulis ("Desert Surprise")
Mangave "Bloodspot"
Aloe - Humulis, Brevifolia, Microstigma?, Haworthoides, SPIRAL
Haworthia - Mutica, Obtusa
Sansevieria - Cylindrica ("African Spear"), "Whitney", Whalefin, Patens, Boncel ("Rhino")
Sedum Dasyphyllum "Fuzzy Wuzzy"
Pachy/Grapto - check growth form for chubby/compact
Senecio mikanioides ("Rosary Ivy"/"German Wax Ivy")
🌿 Cacti 🌿
Euphorbia trigona Rubra, Obesa
Crested Eve's Needle
Astrophytum
(Crossed out as I buy them (or seeds))
This does not even cover the fact that I'd buy just about any butterwort, ping, or bladderwort I can get my hands on, all the plants I'll eventually inevitably buy for terrariums, nor all the plants I'd like to add to my yard (first on the list is raspberries, most everything else I'll start from seed). 😅
I have a problem, right?
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ghostlyfoliage · 3 years
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Tricks I've Learned About Diagnosing Plant Problems:
- Just about everything can cause yellowing leaves so it is almost never a reliable diagnostic symptom beyond the plant being unhappy. Causes of yellowing include: over-watering, under-watering, too much light, too little light, too hot, too cold, nutrient deficiency, pests, and being root bound. Ditto on dropping leaves, which is really just a later stage of stress.
- If there's marks on new growth or twisted new growth alongside yellowing leaves or leaf drop you have pests... but it may take another week before the infestation starts to show... consider quarantining the plant immediately upon seeing this mixture. Early stage infestations can look a lot like under-watering or nutrient deficiencies. (Edit: treat neighboring plants to any signs of pests, as pests spread quickly... a visible infestations will rarely be remedied by quarantine alone)
- The only other cause of damage spots on new growth (as opposed to discoloration) is usually sun-burn, but new growth may eventually grow out healthy if the plant is properly hardened off to light. This is actually more a matter of leaves on the top of the plant will sustain the damage, but it also looks different from pests.
- Sun-burn generally doesn't cause holes, but leaves can split if they're growing too fast - I have seen this on my watermelon peperomia, who also shows yellowing when exposed to too much light - some Haworthias also yellow when exposed to too much light, but they will also yellow with too little light or too much water.
- Most plants will sacrifice old growth to protect new growth from either over or under watering. Sacrifice of new growth is almost always an issue of under-watering (I have only noticed this on few plants: peperomias, strawberry begonias (which will occasionally sacrifice the newest plantlets on their stolons and progress to pulling water from old growth on the mother plant), and Hoyas (which will sacrifice their tendrils before their leaves).
- Necrotic (dry dark/brown) patches with yellow rings are often caused by over-watering or splashing water onto the leaves (later of which often seen on African Violets and the likes). Sun-burn can look similar but usually lacks the bright yellow boarder.
- Fiddle Leaf Figs will drop leaves for any upset - for under-watering the leaves will begin to lose their shine before they drop. Over-watering can show up with edema (on figs this is little red splotches in the early stage) on new growth with curled leaves, progressing to lower leaf loss. Bugs can look like a mixture of these, but will show up with holes in new growth.
- Aloes, Haworthias, Gasterias, Sansevierias, and Sempervivums get dry tips when under-watered as well as thin, bendy (but not soft or mushy) leaves. Over-watering appears as yellowing and swelling progressing to mushy and rot. Aloe veras are surprisingly tolerant of over-watering and can get pretty plump and bright, lime green before succumbing to rot, which usually comes up the center of the rosette, effectively killing the plant.
- Sedums, Pachys, Graptos, and Echeverias are a pain in the butt for the same reason as Figs. Some will show wrinkling when under-watered but some will just cannibalize their lower leaves for water, resulting in yellowing, shriveled leaves that progress to dried up and dropping. Over-watering can look very similar but in early stages will show up with swelling leaves and in late stage can result in soft, mushy leaves and stems. Plump, healthy leaves will also easily pop off when touching an over-watered plant. If there's rot in the stem they can usually be cut and propped, if it's extensive any leaves that still feel healthy can usually be propped if the stem can't be saved.
- Scindapsus will curl their leaves for both under-watering and over-watering, but it's more dramatic when under-watered and over-watering will also show up with edema with yellowing/browning patches. Lower leaves will dry with under-watering.
- Philodendron micans and ferns (inc. asparagus fern, though they're not a true fern) will stop growing when over-watered and sacrifice lower leaves in progression.
- Begonia maculata will drop leaves anytime it's pissed off and at the smallest outbreak of pests (it only takes one for relatively profuse leaf drop).
- Dieffenbachia get yellow spots progressive to necrosis when over-watered. Pests will cause leaf-tip burn that includes a loss of color progressing to dry, brown tips that will creep up the leaves. I suspect that under-watering will show the same way.
- In moisture loving plants (like begonias, large philodendron varieties, Colocasias, Avocados, ect), especially those with large leaves, over-watering or compacted soil will often result in an exchange of "grow a leaf, lose a leaf" along with dark, necrotic spots of leaf edema.
- Peperomias and Calla Lilies can do the "grow a leaf, lose a leaf thing" as well but they also get soft, mushy stems rather than leaf edema.
- Most plants with soft, thin leaves will flop over suddenly and dramatically like they're about to die when they're under-watered - leaves will feel thin and lifeless - but will prop up usually within an hour of watering. Over-watering in these plants usually result in a slow, progressive droop with a plant that looks increasingly more sad - end stage usually results in yellowing and leaf drop on old growth.
- Cyclamen (which have succulent leaves and stems) will droop in both leaves and blooms when under-watered. When infested with pests this will be pared with sacrifice of new blooms rather than droop on mature blooms. No matter what you do they will go through leaf loss on old growth, I've come to the conclusion this is just how this plant does... it just does so more often than other plants in my experience.
- Hoyas and jungle Cacti get soft/bendy, thin, wrinkled leaves when under-watered.
- Seedlings usually yellow and collapse due to too much water. While they're a little more tolerant of extra moisture, extra moisture in conjunction with too little light (or just way too much water) will cause their demise.
- Sometimes the reason succulents are getting stretched out, especially when you're giving them tons of light, is because they're being fed too much. Stop fertilizing or consider cutting their soil with more sand or perlite/pumice to reduce their nutrients if they're not growing as compact as you expect them too. Over-fertilizing can also surprisingly result in a stretched out succulent with little leaves (too much P or K, as succulent fertilizers tend to be higher in these nutrients) even in the face of light levels that would readily burn other houseplants.
- You will almost never have a problem with a houseplant getting too cold unless your heat goes out or their leaves are making direct contact with a window that has ice build up on it. Heat is more likely if you're growing something that prefers cooler temps
- Cold-loving crops will flop over if not given cooler night temps DURING growth. Upon transplanting outside, old growth will not begin to stand up, but new growth will. Despite this, you can grow some cold-weather crops indoors but they will be less sweet than when grown outdoors and the plants will never look quite healthy.
- Succulents often show being totally root bound by losing their color and appearing under-watered. Other plants will generally also show signs of under-watering or suddenly become very thirsty.
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chashikuro · 7 years
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今年は頑張って植え替えしてるんですが 減ってもいるけど増えてもいるのでなかなかどうにも 脳内茶番はいつもの事で なんて可愛らしいんだキミは!今まで見た事もないほど可愛いよ!(๑•ૅㅁ•๑)違う!昨日も見てた! なぁんちゃって いや、嘘じゃない( ̄^ ̄) なんて繰り返してて終わらない
四月も半ばや〜ん(・Д・) 頑張って今月中に完了せにゃ〜
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chashikuro · 7 years
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餞けとして差し上げ用に作った多肉ちゃん寄せ植えと〜(*≧∀≦*) #amigurumi #bear #succulents #botanical #plants #echeveria #sedum #grapto #anacampseros
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chashikuro · 7 years
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#amigurumi #bear #Sedum #grapto #echeveria #succulents #plants
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