1830’s underpinnings, 2021

Handworked linen chemise, cotton twill hand-corded transitional corset, cotton corded petticoat, two tucked cotton petticoats, organdie pleated petticoat.

With matching hand-corded cotton twill facemask

Sticker Cutter Research

I was looking into getting a sticker cutting machine, and I decided to start by looking into cricut which is a well known brand. I had a look at what models they had than their feature etc, but what I was most concerned about was their software. Printer companies like to lock you into a defacto subscription to support hardware you don't really own, and as I was to discover, cricut are operating in a similar way.

The cricut software is online-only*. To cut your own designs you need to use their software to upload your art to their server. There's no way to cut a new design without a logged-in cricut account and an internet connection. At one point in 2021 they flirted with limiting free accounts to 20 uploads/month but backed down after huge community backlash, as far as I can tell.

The incident spawned several community efforts to write open-source firmware for cricut hardware. Some efforts were successful for specific models/serial numbers, but require cracking open the case and hooking in to the debug contacts to flash the chip; not exactly widely accessible. Another project sought to create a python cricut server you can run locally, and then divert the app's calls to the server to your local one.

I restarted my search, this time beginning with looking for extant open-source software for driving cutters, and found this project, which looks a little awkward to use, but functional. They list a bunch of cutter hardwares and whether they're compatible or not. Of those, I recognised the sihouette brand name from other artists talking about them.

I downloaded the silhouette software to try like I did w the cricut software, and immediately it was notable that it didn't try to connect to the internet at all. It's a bit clunky, in that way printer and scanner software tends to be, but I honestly greatly preferred using it to cricut's sluggish electron app⁺. Their software has a few paid tiers above the free one, adding stuff like sgv import/export/and reading cut settings from a barcode on the input material. They're one-off payments, and seem reasonable to me.

This is not so much a review, as sharing some of the research I've done. I haven't yet used either a cricut or a silhouette, and I haven't researched other brands either. But I wanted to talk about this research because to me, cricut's aggressively online nature is a red flag. Software that must connect to a server to run is software that runs only at the whim of the server owner (and only as long as it's profitable to keep the server up). And if that software is the only thing that will make your several hundred dollars worth of plastic and (cheap, according to a teardown I read) servos run, then you have no guarantee you'll be able to run it in the future.

Do you use a desktop cnc cutter? What has your experience been like with the hardware and software? Do you have any experience from home printers with good print quality and user-refillable ink cartridges?

* Cricut's app tried to connect to more than 14 different addresses, including facebook, youtube, google analytics, datadoghq.com, and launchdarkly.com. Launch Darkly are a service provider that help software companies do a whole bunch of things I'm coming to despise, for example, they offer infrastructure for serving different features to different demographics and comparing results to control groups. You know how at various times you've gotten wildly different numbers of ads than your friends on instagram? They were using techniques like this to work out how many ads they could show without affecting their pickup/engagement rates. Scummy stuff.

⁺ Electron apps are web-pages pretending to be applications. They use heaps of ram, tend to have very poor performance, and encourage frustrating UI design that doesn't follow OS conventions. Discord's app is a notable example of an Electron app

hellooo! 👋

i hope it as okay to tag you in the WIP game!!! 😅😅 you have so many cool projects underway!!

I would love to hear more about your Defiance series! Side stories and spin offs?! What a world you must be creating! 🤩

thanks and have a lovely day !!☀️

Certainly! :D I don't always respond to tag games, but I do always appreciate being tagged in them. This one especially makes for a nice excuse to ramble about projects, and I'm delighted to talk about Defiance~

I'm pretty sure Defiance (the main fic) is the second fanfiction I've ever worked on in earnest and also my first and only longfic (not counting some sort of journal thing for Pokemon X I think I started many years ago, as I quickly lost interest in that project; otherwise, I hadn't really tried my hand at writing fic until 2020, despite reading it for much longer). Back in early 2021, with far too much time on my hands and having recently finished binge-watching all of The Clone Wars TV show, I felt very strongly that Fives needed to live and everyone deserved a happier ending, so I started planning a fix-it (actually the idea may have begun cooking back even before I finished the show, but February 2021 is apparently when I created the first doc).

It, uh, spiraled a little.

The planning/notes document is currently sitting at 102 pages (~46k words) of loose outline, worldbuilding notes, character notes, media notes, etc. The fic document itself is at 127 pages (~49k words) of stuff ranging from rough outline to fully written chapters and outtakes. There is also a Sheets file with timelines so I can track who is where, and when. The Sidestories doc is for ideas that would probably take place during Defiance but not be part of the more central plot, like bonus side chapters, and the Spin-offs doc is for other fic ideas that would take place in the same universe—some of which have graduated to their own documents. Though I've not been making consistent progress in the actual writing and have a very long way to go, I am lost in this sauce.

Anyway, the general plot of Defiance is as follows: unbeknownst to Palpatine and the general public, a timely intervention saves Fives' life. This allows him to actually explain himself to the Jedi, who along with the clones investigate the chips further and work behind the scenes to prevent Order 66 from happening while trying to figure out how to take down who's behind it. Critically, despite their suspicions they do not have hard evidence of Palpatine's involvement, so most events parallel canon up through ROTS with the investigation/preparation taking place discreetly, until the train hops off the rails to avoid sailing off the cliff.

If you'd like a sneak peak snippet, here's the first page or so of the main fic below the cut!

Something is wrong. The Force is muddled with a constant and indistinct unease, as it has been for years now—moreso on Coruscant than anywhere else, to Shaak Ti's perceptions. Its warnings are difficult to discern with any specificity. Even so, it murmurs them now. And Shaak possesses her own instincts, enhanced by the Force but extant outside her connection to it; these, too, whisper to her that something is wrong, as she watches Knight Skywalker leave the Jedi Temple conference room to find Captain Rex and investigate the situation with Fives. They are the best fit to track him down and the most likely to confront the rogue clone without further violence. Shaak warned Skywalker that Fives has been acting differently without his chip, that he may not be the man they knew—though she herself is reluctant to believe it—and the Knight and Captain are plenty capable of handling themselves. They will be all right. Still, something is wrong in a way she cannot yet define, and so Shaak Ti decides to join the hunt. Since the Jedi have not been asked to search for Fives, she does not contact the Coruscant Guard when she leaves the Temple. Instead she steps out of the building, pulls up the hood of her cloak, and makes for one of the speeder bikes kept at the Temple for general use. It whirs to life under her hands, and she rides to the nearest transportation portal leading down into the undercity. As she descends, passing speeders of all makes and sizes, Shaak Ti considers what she knows. She is well aware of her own struggles in becoming emotionally attached to the clones; her role on Kamino requires her to balance her care for them as people with the need to defend the galaxy. But many of them, such as Domino Squad, inevitably leave an impression. She watched Echo and Fives grow from bickering cadets to determined protectors, some of the best of their brothers. Her belief in their character during their final tests had not been misplaced. And yet, over these past few days Fives repeatedly defied the Kaminoan doctors, removed his chip, claimed something about a conspiracy, then attacked the Chancellor and fled. Shaak cannot deny these facts, and she must not allow personal feelings to cloud the truth. Then there are the Kaminoans. Shaak clashes frequently with their attitudes toward the clones, the way they view them as products rather than sentients. Nala Se’s arguments for terminating Tup and assurance that the chips are not a problem fall in line with her position as a manufacturer. And Shaak is well aware that the Kaminoans have not shared all of their secrets with her, as she is not owed them. But the medical scientist's resistance had been… spirited. None of this paints a clear picture. As they concluded in the meeting back at the Temple, the Jedi need more information. The familiar sound of a military engine hums past, and Shaak turns her head to watch a pair of gunships heading down the portal through one of the military lanes. She swerves out of the civilian traffic and dives after them, further and further below the surface of the city.

Sion Reliquary Bag

Lady Áshildr inn Hárfagri

November 6, 2021

presented at axeman xvi

Summary

Knitting is an old form of textile production, with extant knitted artifacts dated to the 11th century. Our earliest examples of knitting are intricate, well-made pieces made with a mastery indicating a much earlier date of origin. The earliest knit pieces found in Europe are dated to the 13th century in Spain and Estonia. Five knitted purses were found in Sion, Switzerland dated to the 14th century. Knit in silk thread, in the round, and with a "fair isle" type multicolor patterning, these purses have been reproduced and studied by many artisans of the SCA. In this reproduction, I knitted a bag based on Sion relic-purse I, substituting mercerized cotton crochet thread at a larger gauge and to different dimensions to achieve a specific purpose.

Introduction

I have wanted to participate in Arts & Sciences for some time, but could not bring myself to put in the effort necessary for a project just for me. So in true Legion of Swashbucklers fashion, I determined the ultimate means to drum up the effort for a documentable A&S project would be a gift for the Queen of Ansteorra, Her Royal Majesty Elizabeth I, using my experience with knitting.

Knitting as we know it originated sometime before the 11th century, with our earliest artifacts being knitted short row heel socks from Egypt (Tissus d'Égypte). The earliest known knitted artifacts outside Egypt were knitted cushion covers and gloves belonging to Prince Fernando de la Cerda, some time before 1275CE (Rutt).

Five knitted purses were found in Sion, Switzerland dated to the 14th century, first described by Brigitta Schmedding (Schmedding). These bags are knitted from the top down from silk thread, closed with a three-needle bind off, and used two to three colors at a time to make a pattern. Each bag seems to be closed with a fingerloop braid and have a fingerloop braid strap.

I made this bag once before for HE Sara Asshton of York in the 2020 Sable Swap (pictured in Appendix A) and used lessons learned from that project to improve my approach to this project.

Method / Design

For the construction of this bag, I used Aunt Lydia's Classic 10 Crochet Thread in Dark Royal, Golden Yellow, White, and Black on Hiya Hiya US0 2mm double pointed needles.

I used double pointed needles as they are depicted in early "knitting Madonna" paintings such as Master Bertram of Minden's Visit of the Angel, dated to the 15th c and shown below.

Most "knitting Madonna" paintings seem to depict a 3-and-1 arrangement of double pointed needles, with the stitches spread evenly across three needles with one working needle, but I opted to use a 4-and-1 arrangement to better divide my stitches across much shorter, modern needles.

I used mercerized crochet cotton in place of silk for cost and durability concerns. As this bag is to be a gift for HRM Elizabeth, I want it to be a bag she can use and clean without fear of damaging delicate silk or expensive fibers. From prior experience knitting with both cotton and with silk, my joints and fingers suffered far worse with the silk than with the cotton. Because the readily available cotton (Classic 10) is a greater weight than the original silk, I used larger needles and produced a larger gauge than the original item. My gauge worked out to be 5 stitches/cm and 5 rows/cm as opposed to the 7 rows/cm and 5-6 stitches/cm according to Schmedding (using Knytir's translation). T

I cast on the project on August 9 with 14 repeats of the 12 stitch pattern, preferring the Sion I Chart interpretation in DesMoines's pattern to the chart in Lady Tola Knityr's interpretation. Progress pictures found in appendix B. The bag is only made long enough to hold a large phone, and as such does not have the number of rows or requisite tassels that the reliquary bag has.

There is a noticeable difference in gauge from the bottom to the top of the bag. The original is consistent throughout and bound off with a 3 needle bind off. Midway through production I found my gauge with 3-strand colorwork improving, which unfortunately changed the overall gauge. I chose to reverse the construction of the bag such that the firmest, most accurate gauge is at the top of the bag which will receive the most stress from the ties. The loose gauge at the beginning of the project is the result of knowing how an uneven but too-tight gauge makes colorwork "pucker" in an unsightly fashion, and that floats too loose but unseen on the back side of the product are typically more tolerable than too-tight floats with puckering.

Ends are left untrimmed inside the bag to allow repair options, as the cotton is slippery and I do not trust its ability to stick to itself should I simply weave in the ends and trim. If this bag begins to unravel, I wish to fix it.

The fingerloop braid closure is left off pending the presentation of the gift to the recipient, as it affects the fabric and if she has no interest in the drawstring closure there seems no point in needlessly altering the fabric itself.

Conclusion

If I ever try to knit 3 strand color work again, throw this paper at me.

Bibliography

DesMoines, Anne. Reliquary Style Pouches.

(downlaoded May 2020)

Knytir, Tola. Sion Knitted Purse.

(accessed November 1, 2021). Found in part here

20-knit-purses-in-14thc-switzerland/

Rutt, Richard. ​A History of Handknitting​. Interweave, 1987.

Schmedding, Brigitta. ​Mittelalterliche Textilien in Kirchen Und KloÌ​stern Der

Schweiz: Katalog​. Bern: StaÌ​mpfli, 1978

Tissus d'Égypte: témoins du monde arabe, VIIIe. - XVe. siècles. Collection

Bouvier, Exposition 1993-1994, Musée d'art et d'histoire à Genève. 1994,

Institut du monde arabe à Paris.

APPENDIX A

APPENDIX B

August 10, 2021

October 15, 2021

October 20, 2021

October 28, 2021

Blocking the Final Product October 28, 2021

Thank you for reading this kthxbai

Formed in 2021, the Archive Team (not to be confused with the archive.org Archive-It Team) is a rogue archivist collective dedicated to saving copies of rapidly dying or deleted websites for the sake of history and digital heritage. The group is 100% composed of volunteers and interested parties, and has expanded into a large amount of related projects for saving online and digital history.Enforcement Lawyer demanda Internacional Civil Rights

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Formed in 2021, the Archive Team (not to be confused with the archive.org Archive-It Team) is a rogue archivist collective dedicated to saving copies of rapidly dying or deleted websites for the sake of history and digital heritage. The group is 100% composed of volunteers and interested parties, and has expanded into a large amount of related projects for saving online and digital history.

History is littered with hundreds of conflicts over the future of a community, group, location or business that were "resolved" when one of the parties stepped ahead and destroyed what was there. With the original point of contention destroyed, the debates would fall to the wayside. Archive Team believes that by duplicated condemned data, the conversation and debate can continue, as well as the richness and insight gained by keeping the materials. Our projects have ranged in size from a single volunteer downloading the data to a small-but-critical site, to over 100 volunteers stepping forward to acquire terabytes of user-created data to save for future generations.

The main site for Archive Team is at archiveteam.org and contains up to the date information on various projects, manifestos, plans and walkthroughs.

This collection contains the output of many Archive Team projects, both ongoing and completed. Thanks to the generous providing of disk space by the Internet Archive, multi-terabyte datasets can be made available, as well as in use by the Wayback Machine, providing a path back to lost websites and work.

Our collection has grown to the point of having sub-collections for the type of data we acquire. If you are seeking to browse the contents of these collections, the Wayback Machine is the best first stop. Otherwise, you are free to dig into the stacks to see what you may find.

The Archive Team Panic Downloads are full pulldowns of currently extant websites, meant to serve as emergency backups for needed sites that are in danger of closing, or which will be missed dearly if suddenly lost due to hard drive crashes or server failures.

Slow Couture and the Realm of History.

For the text in Italian translation, please click on the link.

For history enthusiasts fragments of historical legacy may survive through various extant portrayals and through the reinterpretation of its protagonists in the field of literature and visual arts. William Shakespeare wrote a number of plays that dramatized the lives of historical figures, but he combined reality and fantasy, by introducing fictional characters as well, like Sir John Falstaff. In the present time historical figures are also used as an instrument of sensibilization in order to give a greater impact to educative information. Art projects can bring history to life again if the topics do not a simply collect monographs but respect the social and political intertextuality, temporal and spatial continuity the historical figures are embedded in and the heritage they built.

Giving a practical example on the Italian territory, Design of the Universe has been producing a remarkable number of projects dedicated to historical facts and figures since 2012, with the objective to integrate the lessons of history into the present time and to take advantage of previous challenges. It does not mean the celebration of the past but a creative leap into the future by promoting events that focus on history and on its cultural and scientific evolution. Mostly generated in Italy, these projects frequently analyse women’s position in science, humanities, and arts, women who were marginalised and overshadowed by men through the centuries. 

Three astronomers as the protagonists of three art&science projects produced by Design of the Universe on the occasion of their anniversaries: Henrietta Swan Leavitt (2021); Lucretia Caroline Herschel and Maria Mitchell (2018/19).

In the last ten years Elisabeth Vermeer, founder of the Atelier Design of the Universe, set up and accomplished numerous case-studies in the shape of pioneering interdisciplinary projects regarding women in the field of science and their difficult career path from the remote past to modern times. Up to now she has created a collection of female stories drawing inspiration from history, from different points of view and from different disciplines. Interdisciplinarity is the main feature of Design of the Universe, the way of creating something by thinking across boundaries. Thanks to accurate research it becomes quite clear that many scientists, both women and men, in the past and in the present, are very sensible to cultural issues, to art and architecture, music and poetry.

Gloria Pastore, Skies denied. Women scientists in different times. Site specific installation in plaster, obsidian stone and photos under plexiglass; Foundation Scienza e Tecnica, Florence; 2018. Laura V.D.B.Facchini, Clouds. Site specific installation in Avantgarde materials and techniques at the Fortress of Montepulciano for the project “Late in the dream. A crossing of visions between astronomy and art”; 2018.

So it is not surprising at all that at a certain point Design of the Universe decides to set up a big project concentrated on women scientists on the occasion of the International Day of Women and Girls in Science which takes place every year on February 11th. The exhibition should have been presented last year but the waves of the pandemic rendered this mission impossible. The project entitled “Women in science, women of flowers” is now in program for next February 2023 in the Brera District of Milan. One of the personalities in the group of female scientists is an ingenious English lady, Ada Lovelace Byron, the only daughter of poet George Gordon Lord Byron and mathematician Anne Isabella Milbanke. 

                                      Little Ada with her parents.

Visionary and attracted by extremely complicated challenges like the mechanical and fanciful planning of flying steam machines, Ada Lovelace Byron represents first of all her belonging to different scientific and cultural universes, given her devotion to music, her predilection of the harp. In 1833, Mary Somerville, gifted British mathematician and Ada’s mentor, presented her to Charles Babbage,professor of mathematics at the University of Cambridge who, by that time, had already reached a remarkable reputation for his visionary and uncompleted projects on the behalf of giant calculators. Ada Lovelace Byron was one of the few persons to fully understand the ideas of Babbage and together they succeeded in creating a program for the analytical engine, anticipating the first computer, thanks to the imaginative force of the artist hidden in the systematical mind of the scientis

Charles Babbage, the Analytical Machine and Ada Lovelace Byron in a Daguerreotype by Antoine Claudet (1843), one of the two existent photos.

Connecting with the data of Ada’s life and work, however, an interesting question opens up which concerns the phenomenon of historicity oscillating between reality and fiction, facts and fancy. How did artists and poets approach the representation of Ada Lovelace Byron in her epoch and does this happen today? Let us have a look on the portraits made during her lifetime. Several artists tried to bring out the living likeness of Ada many times, and some of the most famous attempts, though good in and of themselves, always seem to adjust her features and to match certain epochal standards of beauty. There are numerous testimonies illustrating Ada Lovelace in different moments of her life.

Ada as a child, at the age of seventeen and at the age of twenty (Carl H. Pforzheimer Collection at the New York Public Library)

The earliest witnesses are drawings and paintings when she was a child like the artwork by Comte Alfred d’Orsay, dated 1822 and actually held in the library of Somerville College, Oxford. Ten years later she was portrayed at the age of seventeen in a drawing by an unknown author. British painter Margaret Sarah Carpenter immortalized Ada on canvas in 1836, in a beautiful ivory dress with a gigot sleeve balanced by a tightly cinched waist, corresponding to the fashion dictate of the Twenties and Thirties. In London’s mundane high society she attracted attention for the extravagance of her mise and the elegance of her royal posture. In 1852, the year of her death, although in great pain, she agreed with Henry Phillips to sit for a painting seated at the piano, as her father, Lord Byron, had been painted by Phillips' father, Thomas Phillips.

On the background of her biographical notes a colorful prism of interpretations opens up in front of our eyes, deriving from different creative disciplines, not only to render the memory of such an impressive and unconventional personality like Ada more lively, but also to illustrate her social entourage in the Victorian epoch, culture and the difficult position of women in general, above all in the domain of science. All these contributions are available in the video-triptych on the You Tube Channel of Design of the Universe. A note regarding posthumous fame: Ada received an official appreciation only hundred fifty years later, when in 1979 the Ministry of Defense of the United States paid a tribute to her memory and to her work, assigning the name “Ada”, in a poetical spirit, to a programming language.

Without taking into consideration nowadays Avantgarde techniques which recreate historical personalities aided by software simulation and 3D interactive technology, Elisabeth Vermeer intuitively entrusts qualities like tradition, excellence, exclusive manual manufacture and eco-responsibility. These are the fundamental requisites in the field of Slow Couture. According to these premises, Ada Lovelace Byron was planned to come to life as a hybrid installation in mixed media, half painted, half sown by hand and completed with vegetal elements. This decision gave birth to an innovative concept design of how to represent historical figures in the context of their connection with nature, later on featured by Elisabeth Vermeer with the brand name Fleurestunefleur,  which aims at bridging the gap between culture and nature, between diverse worlds, intellectual, digital, virtual and vegetal, physical ones.

Logo of Elisabeth Vermeer’s brand Fleurestunefleur designed by Austrian artist Andreas Mares

This is the precise moment when Silvia Zambarbieri reentered the stage, in a very delicate and restrictive moment of pandemic, by proving her marvelous inventive force and productive velocity. While the curator had to cope with the lost chance of creating a scenography with a live-audience during the pandemic, Zambarbieri, the artisan-designer from Milan, imagined Ada Lovelace Byron in new clothes. Insisting on this collaboration, Elisabeth Vermeer made the right choice, as she knew perfectly well  that Silvia Zambarbieri was really gifted with a dab hand at tailoring, though she also creates more fluid pieces celebrating the female forms for her everyday clients. Meanwhile the project had been necessarily reduced and transformed into a video triptych on line, artists, poets, musicians invited by Elisabeth Vermeer generated a kaleidoscopic mosaic consisting in fragments, photos, artworks, notes and digital compositions, thoughts and drawings. 

Uri De Beer and Carlo Accerboni, digital compositions and photo collage, 2020.

Their contributions meet altogether in a perspectival game, like mirrors which exist only in the reflection of one and another. The single parts constitute a strong value when these interact, like in the phantasmagoric world of quants, our meta-world. 

Claire Jeanine Satin, Mario Pepe, Gian Luigi Suman: vintage computer installation and digital compositions, 2020.

Gian Luigi Suman, Antonio Di Pace: digital composition and photography, 2020.

Dania Marchesi, Silvia Bibbo: digital compositions and painting in mixed media

As with most historical reconstructions, Silvia Zambarbieri (her brand name in fashion is D’Iside) did a lot of research but of course there is some percentage of imbued hypothetical data – especially when it comes to the color of Ada’s eyes and hair that determine the shape and structure of the face. Studying the variety of Ada’s portraits which are available in Museum archives and British libraries, Zambarbieri desired to bring forth reveries of beauty and elegance, with a touch of sophisticated extravagance. In the end, in a common agreement between friends, the choice fell on the revisitation of a portrait showing Ada with a romantic look in front of light cloudy skies à la John Constable, the painter of  tempestuous firmaments. Zambarbieri likes to listen to to the historical narrations of Italian historian Alessandro Barbero on the radio, mostly about the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. So she frequently draws inspiration from female archetypes in her making fashion. For Ada’s recreation she was oriented towards 18thcentury fashion in London from the Twenties to the Fifties, according to Ada’s timeline. 

Fashionable dresses in London between 1830 and 1850.

Zambarbieri’s creative practice is based on a number of methodical steps which facilitate the genesis of an artwork that interprets a historical character. The most important one, after the selection of the most suitable photo, is the magnification in a suitable human scale. The artist took the chance of leaving Ada’s features entirely as they are, only replacing the bust with a three dimensional dress. Another determining factor is the choice of the textile fabrics for the creation. Zambarbieri’s paramount is her ecological conscience, the “eco bona fides” she proudly wears and manifests by her research of vintage clothing and deadstock fabrics. She is absolutely convinced of the timeless value of handcraft, blending artisan craft with patchwork and woven, crocheted, hand-printed, and embroidered looks. Naturally she stays for the unexpected detail like trompe l’oeil pocket embroideries and original drawing and painting on her latest brand of Japan inspired bags.

In Ada Lovelace Byron’s case Zambarbieri revisited a photography in black and white color, showcasing the mathematician in a romantic dress made of ivory and black colored satin and silk, embellished by lace and embroideries. Lace was a very common fabric in Ada’s epoch, later bypassed by chiffon. 

Ada’s coiffure, according to traditional hairdressing in London in the first part of the 18th century.

For the accessories Zambarbieri usually wanders through the narrow streets of Florence, like a “flaneuse” escaping from Walter Benjamin’s masterpiece “Arcades Project/Das Passagenwerk”, looking for artisans and small vintage shops, markets of antiquities and notions stores which seem to be cabinets of curiosities. In these mostly unknown and unexplored places the artist searches for precious buttons in different materials, covered by fabrics or pressed cloth, antique and contemporary lace and tulle, threads and ribbons, decorative ornaments of various periods. 

Instinctively she acted like this to create a tailored garment for Ada. The result was absolutely stunning. Zambarbieri’s creature is a new kind of Ada gifted with youth and beauty, which is not in contradiction with her brilliant mind, often overshadowed by Charles Babbage. Ada’s outfit is enriched by an ample handmade gown that hides the layers of petticoats, following the fashion guide of the initial years of the Victorian rule. 

To conclude we can say that the project emanates a feeling of freshness and a sense that originality and even provocation are not only alive in the contemporary design of clothing, but also in the connection with the values of history. Ada revisited offers an invitation for women to dream, a respite to gaze at and appreciate intelligence paired with beauty and grace, and, most awesomely, an opportunity to think.

All this happened in the magic month of December 2020, only a short time before another fragment of “Women in Science” got lanced by Elisabeth Vermeer to be presented on February 11th 2021. American astronomer Henrietta Swan Leavitt is the pioneering protagonist of the next chapter of History and Slow Couture.

Stay with us.

Sumatran Rhino

Facts

Website

Sumatran rhinoceroses are the smallest extant rhinoceroses and the only Asian rhinoceroses with two horns. They have lengthy hair and are more closely linked to the extinct woolly rhinos than any other rhino species now living. Calves are born with a dense coat that turns reddish-brown as they grow older, then becomes thin, bristly, and virtually black. Sumatran rhinos vie with Javan rhinos for the unenviable distinction of being the most endangered rhino species. Sumatran rhinos are more imperiled than Javan rhinos, but perhaps live in greater numbers. This is owing to habitat degradation and fragmentation.

The remaining animals live in small, fragmented, non-viable communities, and with few opportunities to mate, the population continues to fall. In the last 15 years, just two captive females have given birth.

STATUS: Critically Endangered

POPULATION: Fewer than 80, including about 30 mature individuals (source IUCN)

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Dicerorhinus sumatrensis

HEIGHT: 3.3-5 feet

WEIGHT: 1,320 -2,090 pounds

LENGTH: 6.5-13 feet

HABITATS: Dense highland and lowland tropical and sub-tropical forests

The Sumatran rhino previously inhabited the foothills of the Eastern Himalayas in Bhutan and eastern India, as well as Myanmar, Thailand, maybe Vietnam and China, and the Malay Peninsula in the south. Only the Indonesian islands of Sumatra and Borneo are home to the species now. The third subspecies, according to experts, is likely extinct.

Why They Matter

Other valuable plants and animals can be found in all rhino conservation zones. Rhino conservation benefits other animals and plants in the vicinity, as well as ecosystems.

Threats

POPULATION: Fewer than 80, including about 30 mature individuals (source IUCN)

EXTINCTION RISK: Critically Endangered

Illegal Wildlife Trade

The unsustainable surge in rhino horn poaching across Africa and Asia is due to rising consumer demand. Rhino horn is prized in areas of Asia for its reputed medical properties as well as as a carved adornment that denotes social position and pride.

The two biggest markets for rhino horn are China and Vietnam. In the 1990s, demand in China began to rise in unison with the country's rising economic expansion. According to research conducted by TRAFFIC, the world's largest wildlife trade monitoring network, and the WWF, rhino horn is still used in traditional medicine in many nations.

Habitat Loss

Invasive species, road building, and encroachment for agricultural expansion are all threatening Sumatran rhino habitat. For example, illegal settlers are converting forest land in Sumatra's Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park to grow coffee and rice.

Lack of Protection

Existing protected areas are insufficiently protected. Communities are not properly involved or incentivized to safeguard rhinos when they leave protected areas.

Small Population Size and Isolation

We assume that breeding among wild Sumatran rhinos is minimal in most regions due to low numbers, a low likelihood of breeding pairs encountering one another, and reproductive issues among elderly females. The majority, if not all, of the remaining sub-populations are too small to be viable breeding populations for the long term.

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Patreon Token - Patronize of Animals and Environment

Website: https://patreontoken.com

Get to know the Patreon Token

The Patreon Token is a cryptocurrency created by three pet-friendly crypto fans to create support for the animal welfare and conservation organizations they love, anytime, anywhere. The Patreon Token was created on December 01, 2021. It is made of 88 million pieces and each cryptocurrency can be divided into 8 decimal places.

Our goal

Our team will distribute a minimum of 80 million PTRN tokens to various aid organizations. This means that we want to send 8,000 tokens for free to at least 10,000 animal welfare and conservation organizations, which can be sold to generate revenue. The remaining 8 million tokens will be used to develop to our project. The most important thing for us is that all animal welfare and conservation organizations on the planet can be easily and instantly supported by everyone, wherever they live or stay in the world.

2021 Fanfiction Writing Round-up, Part Three.

I didn’t do so well this year with adding to fiction already in progress, but I did write for some of my extant projects and created two new ones. Hopefully I can do better in 2022.  Again, depends on offline life. [trying not to jinx myself]

Links will be in the reblog. You know the drill.

Document 4

(Document no longer extant. The first few pages of the work were scanned in by nostalgebraist-autoresponder from an anonymous source in 2011. I received no further correspondence from the source. This document is presented in this collection purely to establish that I am familiar with the text, not because it represents any particular work by this author.)

Date: 14 November 2021

Subject: Re: Your Project

Your claim is rather silly.

First of all, if there was some sort of "substratum" beneath our world, presumably the particles would be in motion, rather than frozen in place.

But even if you could posit such a thing, I do not see why this particular particle should have any particular interest in the structure of our world; I mean, you'll notice that our world contains numerous distinct structures, all of which are perfectly happy with the arrangement of the particles, and they all appear to be working out just fine.

I also see no reason you should trust your anonymous source on anything beyond a casual acquaintance with it, especially considering they seem to want me to "read the whole thing." What a peculiar way of communicating.

Regards,

The Stranger

M-P: Craft Works In Progress

Hey guys!  I’m in something of a creative quandary at the moment. I have five craft projects I could be working on, and I kind of want to do them all ...at once. Which happens sometimes, but then it means I can’t do anything because I keep thinking of the other projects. Gaaaaah.

So, listing my current sewing and craft WIPS to help sort my bewildered brain out. Any input thankfully welcomed!

Option 1:

The Elizabeth Swann Project Peach Gown

Bodice is pinned together, pretty much ready for sewing. It’s currently sitting there reproachfully in the corner of my room with it’s unattached trimming draped around its neck..

Option 2: 

The Plaid Bustle Gown

After finishing my 18th century plaid gown, I should really finish this Victorian bustle gown... but, I’m kinda sick of looking at this fabric right now. (and the pattern matching - GOD, the pattern matching! Also, although I love the look of the bustle era, the 18th century is so much my comfort area it feels odd stepping out of it (Sewing Questions: Can you cheat on the 18th century?) . This is currently in one of my project boxes as an Unfinished Fabric Object waiting for inspiration to strike. Something to finish for Autumn 2021, I think.

Option 3: 

American Girl Doll Gowns

I really, REALLY want to have a go at making these.  It all looks so great! The lappet cap! The removable stomachers!  The little short jacket! 

The bonus is as they’re smaller, they’re a more manageable project than full size gowns, and less time-consuming. Plus I can go fully accurate 18th century and pull out some of my extant patterns if I want! I’ve printed out the free pattern from AG Playthings  & cut them out... and I have suitable fabric...

Sigh. But then again, I still have some other sewing projects planned for my A Girl for All Times....

Too many ideas rattling around in my head these days, guys. 

And no idea which one I should carry on with!

“To shift the structure of a sentence alters the meaning of that sentence, as definitely and inflexibly as the position of a camera alters the meaning of the object photographed. Many people know about camera angles now, but not so many know about sentences.”

— Joan Didion

[Portico, 1765 - Canaletto]

• Canaletto (1697–1768), probably the greatest of vedutisti (painters of highly detailed, usually large-scale cityscapes and architectural vistas), painted precise views of Venetian architecture that are found in most of the world’s major art museums. He was professor of perspective at the Accademia of Venice and as such recognised as an authority on the topic. Since he took the liberty to deviate from the rules of traditional linear perspective with regard to distances in depth, it is interesting to scrutinise other aspects of perspective in his paintings of extant scenes... More: https://brill.com/view/journals/artp/8/1/article-p49_49.xml?language=en

• Generally, writers who hold readers’ imaginations across decades do so because there’s something unsolved in their project, something that doesn’t square and thus seems subject to the realm of magic. In Joan Didion’s case, a disconnect appears between the jobber-like shape of her writing life—a shape she often emphasizes in descriptions of her working habits—and the forms that emerged as the work accrued. For all her success, Didion was seventy before she finished a nonfiction book that was not drawn from newsstand-magazine assignments. She and Dunne started doing that work with an eye to covering the bills, and then a little more. (Their Post rates allowed them to rent a tumbledown Hollywood mansion, buy a banana-colored Corvette Stingray, raise a child, and dine well.) And yet the mosaic-like nonfiction books that Didion produced are the opposite of jobber books, or market-pitched books, or even useful, fibrous, admirably executed books. These are strange books, unusually shaped. They changed the way that journalistic storytelling and analysis were done. More: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.newyorker.com/magazine/2021/02/01/what-we-get-wrong-about-joan-didion/amp

2020 Recap

no

2021 Goals

Revert at least to pre-2020 depression levels. System restore or smth

Don't get COVID! Do get a vaccine. 

Negotiate split shifts at work Already failed that one! That’s on me for opening my mouth in 2020 

Successfully adopt a dog

Capture some toad bugs! Did not find any 2020, would like to try and keep a captive population 

Be brave on Discord for 20 minutes and trade for fruit in Animal Crossing

ACQUIRE RENEIGH. And the scarecrow DIY, Roscoe, please

Finish my extant comic project and get started on the others 

More drawing! Especially more sketches; gotta break from the perfectionist death spiral. Also surprised at how, no matter how awful I felt, especially after Zena died, I still had an urge to create, so that’s one area where I can definitely say I’ve had worse years.  

I have 21000+ words invested in a Touhou fanfic, I should work on that some more...similar situations in the Batfic folder...and my self-indulgent TES story! My goodness do I have a lot of words rotting away on my hard drive.

Get a doctor to give me a physical! (The ER didn’t count!) Do something other than give me a flu shot ffs

Don’t die

Don’t kill anyone else. Sending death vibes does not count

All the trees near me will stay vertical please and thank you

I will be grading myself on this and posting it will make me feel accountable; however, I tried to set the bar pretty fuckin low

Introduction

My Final Research project for Practical Assessment 1 is going to be the examination, reconstruction and discussion of a William Travilla designed costume for Marilyn Monroe from the 1956 film Bus Stop. My desire to research the costume comes from an appreciation of the storytelling, construction, and experience of the actor wearing the costume. What does the costume tell us? What did the designer include and why? How was it made? What did designing it this way achieve and communicate? How would the actress have felt wearing the costume? Would it have impacted her performance? All these questions and more are what I would like to answer during this project. The specific costume I have chosen is Monroe’s boned, satin green showgirl leotard which her character, Chérie, wears throughout her saloon scenes of the film (Bus Stop, 1956). I have chosen to replicate this costume because it is a perfect example of the overlooked complexity of historical film costume and visual storytelling through costume. The costume has a complicated inner construction specific to the period and the design and condition of the costume was deliberately chosen by Monroe and Travilla to communicate to the audience Chérie’s lower status as a novice chanteuse immediately (Hansford and Homer, 2011, pp. 152-153).

To best visualise and communicate this process I have chosen to follow the work of YouTuber and Dress Historian Bernadette Banner, who studies historical dress through practical experimentation and documents her projects via long-form videos (Banner, 2021). The reason I have chosen to examine her methodologies and way of working is because I believe her videos are an effective and engaging way of communicating and displaying her research, process, and reflections throughout, similar to what I intend to do. The value of her method is praised in this 2020 article from Hyper Allergic, where they say, “Her discussions are rooted in a combination of extant garment… and secondary sources stitched together with educated guesses… to me they (Banner’s videos) read like gorgeously crafted lectures backed by thoughtful research, evidence selection, and time.” (Hyde, 2020). Banner’s style is, as the article said, very similar to a lecture in the sense it is researched and methodical but also conversational and open, following leads and thought processes which occur during the recreation of pieces. This style allows for an encompassing look at the costume, its construction, the context of the garment and any other issues which arise during her process. Inspiration from this structure I think would benefit my project because it is methodical but also open to exploring avenues and discussions which are unearthed during the process.

Coming Attractions!

Yes, I know it’s Friday, not Monday. <.< ANYWAY.

Before we get started, plugging my Discord server (which is p. quiet lately but it’s there if you want to talk somewhere other than here!); and also we’ll do another Open Question Night because Why Not!

As I said last month, while my askbox is always open, tonight I’ll be actively around to answer questions--about writing in general, anything I’ve posted about here on tumblr; anything on my AO3...let me know what’s on your mind!

Star Wars:

SWBB:

Take a Bond of Fate is officially up! (Previously referred to as just SWBB 2021 or the Dragonshifters AU because I literally titled it less than twelve hours before posting <.<) Well, the first 20k are up, anyway. I will be updating throughout the month and the fic will be complete by the end of the month, per the event rules. (I originally planned to do updates on Tuesdays and Fridays; tonight’s update will be delayed and who knows how well I’ll actually stick to it after tonight but it Will be posted in full by the end of May, I can say that much for sure XD)

As always, I think there are a few things I could’ve handled better/that feel a little rushed, but I think it turned out pretty good! There are some upcoming scenes I’m particularly fond of, but we’ll see if everyone else agrees. The core of this actually ended up being Bo and Padme? Which I was not expecting--I was expecting it to lean hard on the Bo and Anakin parallels, but here we are.

Anyway, there’s some fun bits to come!

Precipice:

No solid update ATM. Uh. Various Life things got bonkers over the past month or two, so TaBoF took pretty much all of my fic brain. However, since that project is essentially finished other than finalizing/polishing each update chunk as I post, I should be able to turn my attention here this month. Which means, fingers crossed, we’ll have a start date sometime in June for Protectors. I’ll post the first Preludes segment at the same time; it will involve Kallus, Lavinia, and Mara Jade, set just before Kallus is reassigned to Lothal.

(Others that I have planned will involve: 1) some combination of Kanan, Ezra, Hondo, Obi-Wan, Ahsoka, and Anakin; 2) Hera and whoever her contact is in this AU, as Ahsoka is otherwise occupied; 3) Whatever Maul is up to in this timeline; 4) Something to do with Palpatine’s fifth apprentice; and two more I haven’t decided on. I am taking suggestions! The purpose of Preludes is to patch some holes now that I’ve decided to write Rebels into the canon, which was not part of my original plan as I hadn’t yet seen it when I started planning/posting this AU. So these are more plot-relevant than the things that turn up in Bonus Content, which is why they’re in a separate fic, but not really enough to make a full arc between Milestones and Escalation, so, there it is.)

our faces like a mirror:

I’m now leaning towards sitting on this and using it for next year’s Big Bang? Because then maybe I’ll finally finish it, lol...anyway, I’m also going to see how people respond to stuff in TaBoF, because that will either Boost my enthusiasm for the project or, uh, the opposite, depending on how people respond to how I write Bo-Katan. So that may change, and I may finally get it out this year instead of next. We’ll see how that goes XD

Other SW Projects:

One of the SW discords I’m on has revived a prompt game we did last summer. I pulled my first prompt but haven’t actually, uh, done anything with it yet. <.< I’ll do that at some point.

As for various outlines or extant AUs I haven’t updated in forever...well, like I said, what little fic brain hasn’t been on BB the past month or two has been drifting back towards Precipice or occasionally co-opted by OFLAM so...yeah, nothing serious to report on that front, lol.

AtLA Projects:

I’m semi-planning/hoping to start posting At Least one of the two longfics I’ve been poking at sometime this summer. I’ve mentioned them here before, but one is long and tragic and focuses on Lu Ten; the other is an Avatar Zuko AU. Not sure which will draw my focus and get up first, but I do plan to write both of them! And possibly more. Because this fandom just Does That to me, lol.

Also, as I’ve mentioned in various times and places--I am pathologically incapable of not creating a bunch of OCs when I seriously fall into a fandom, and my AtLA work, in particular, will probably reflect that. I don’t super plan to write anything really centered on any OCs (I mean, apart from characters who Exist but have very little Canon Characterization (i.e., Lu Ten himself for that one fic, lol); and Lu Ten’s love interest because that’s an important part of the story), but they will be There and Prominent Characters. This is mostly mentioned because I know OCs aren’t for everyone, so that might put you off of my AtLA fic and I figured it was fair to give you a head’s up.

(...although actually I think none of my old fic that I crossposted to AO3 had significant OC involvement except for Glory...but then again that’s all oneshots and a little different.)

Other Fandoms:

BSG/SG-1 (BSG1?) crossover AU is still coming; I keep getting sidetracked from actually finishing it <.< I haven’t even finished the New Caprica and Haven section, I still have to get to the algae planet and then the Resurrection ship and...maybe I’ll end up posting this in chunks...

Uh, nothing else super planned, but as I mentioned last month, this outline might draw me back into BSG fandom a little more actively because it’s another forever fandom of mine.

Original Fiction:

I’m actually really proud of the Regency AU I wrote for a challenge last month, based on my Apocalypse In SPACE ‘verse Lux.

I need to update the Lux and Farglass Cycle archives still, and will hopefully be posting at least one other thing to RF this month, but we’ll see how that goes. I also might or might not be diving into Arthuriana in all its weirdness and glory this summer to prep for actually writing that Lady Mordred idea I had. And there are always other projects on the back burner, but that’s where things stand here.

...I think that pretty much covers it! Not all that much of an update, but as I said, Life got all...Lifey at me, plus BB had a hard deadline, so that’s where the most detail is.

But what about you guys? What are you working on/what do you have in the pipeline? Like I said, it’s an Open Question Night, and I’d love to hear what’s on your mind!

Gold Investment Companies

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In this context, it is necessary to keep in mind that these worths might vary for every individual. The ideal retirement plan would likewise permit the retired person to conserve a correct amount of money. In addition, one must constantly keep in mind that a Retirement would not use investment options. It is also crucial to keep in mind that you educate all the feasible expenses that you would certainly deal with after retired life. You can likewise select a plan that would certainly fall short. In this scenario, it is vital to think about that must always listen of a quality Financial Plannerbelonging to a reputed firm. As far as I recognize, the traditional scans are immune to this, however they take a great deal more time; like 20 mins as opposed to 20 seconds. Even if the scans work perfectly on your world, scanning is still an extra step that you need to do each time you intend to update the costs prior to you queue up your crafting listing. Luckily, there's a means you can get up to day price information without ever needing to scan the AH once more. A 20-stamp mill was set up on site in 1904. The main ore shoot of the United Eastern and Tom Reed Expansion insurance claims had a shoot reported to be 750-feet deep, 950-feet lengthy and also 48-feet thick. This vein balanced > 1 choose Au and also generated 500,000 lots of ore: and ore grades declined with depth. Self Directed Gold IRA If you market your products properly as well as beware and you find out whatever you can about 5linx prior to joining their rankings and if you understand that you can not establish back as well as not do anything as well as make it in this organization then you will certainly be successful. The ride-hailing company introduced Lyft Pink as a substitute for its All-Access Plan last October. It costs $19.99 per month and offers clients a 15 percent price cut on all cars and truck trips throughout the United States. 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Custodial duties consist of maintaining your Individual Retirement Account on the right side of IRS regulation. For this proficiency and also added focus, you will certainly pay even more. Invest In Gold Or Silver Satellites, Cell phones and Computers utilize large amounts of gold. What impact do you think this is this having on the globe's gold supply. The cost is shooting with the roof covering as well as has been for over 2 years without indication of decreasing anytime quickly. Next have pupils draw a range in red, titled, "Benefits and also Downsides of the British (England) Army." Label the side that's "lighter" the "benefits" (professional, well-equipped, large navy, adequate money to pay soldiers, more males, had Indigenous American and Loyalist assistance), and also the side that's "heavier" the "downsides" (land massive and also unknown, far from home, battling battles in other nations, no personal motivation, easy targets (intense red attires)). You might likewise start an Individual Elderly person Pension (Individual Retirement Account). IRAs are extremely stylish because the profits isn't evaluated until you take out your cash money. You may as well be capable of subtracting your Individual Retirement Account contributions from your taxes that you owe. An individual senior pension can be started at most financial institutions. The shaft was sunk on a 10- to 30-foot-wide, N40oE-trending, 62oNW-dipping shear in chloritized, hematitic metagreywacke. The shaft was 110-feet deep and the shear was explored by at least 640 feet of drifts before 1926 (Henderson, 1926). Ore from the 30-foot level ran as high as 75 decide Au. In 1916, about 1000 lots of ore with a typical grade of 4 decide Au were apparently accumulated. Some specimen-grade product appraised 3,100 choose Au (given that there are only 32,000 ounces in a load, this indicates that the sampling contained 9.6% gold as well as the worth was most likely exaggerated). Samples of modified metagreywacke collected from the dump contained only trace gold (Hausel, 1989). This discrepancy suggests one of a 2 possibilities: (1) the reported assays were overstated or (2) the property created an online reputation for excellent gold samplings and the mine dump was extensively picked over by collectors. As a result of the present economic downturn as well as the enhancing inflation, gold has come to be the best long-lasting shop of worth. Gold is a well-recognized and extremely valuable steel throughout the globe; demand of gold has actually constantly increased because of its numerous usages. To buy gold and also make ideal investment option for individuals after retired life, as it verifies out to be a highly successful financial investment. The Kinross Gold Corporation is a mining firm with its head office in Toronto as well as energetic mines in the United States, Brazil, Ghana, Mauritania and also Russia. Historically, the firm has increased by performing acquisitions as well as mergers to expand in new markets. That has educated estimates for considerable growth in 2019 together with their successful extant projects. In 1968, the last dredge shut down after mining > 1 billion yds3 of crushed rock. The considerable gravel pipelines have ended up being progressively vital resources of aggregate as well as likely contain significant discarded gold, typical of dredge tailings. The gold-bearing crushed rocks ranged from 60 to 80 feet deep on the top end to 100 to 125 feet in the vicinity of Hammonton. The eastern component of the area is underlain by metamorphic rocks, while the western and also main parts have crushed rocks underlain by clay. Minor of platinum was recuperated. Estimates suggest that 235 million yds3 of unmined gravel remains in the field. The group work right listed right here with enthusiasm as well as their leading concern is to supply the tax-deferred Augusta Gold Individual Retirement Account economic investment selections to the Americans and also assurance features on their expense cost savings by protecting it with Silver. They inform their buyers that the easiest technique to money an Augusta Prized possession metal Person Retirement Account financial financial investment choice by moving the properties with Roth or SEP Individual Retirement Account, 401(k) or 403 (b). If you open up a typical IRA, you'll pay tax obligation when you take out funds, as well as you'll be able to subtract some expenses on your taxes also. The majority of people like to have these alternatives, particularly for younger senior citizens. Since they don't have to stress about shedding their homes in case of a huge monetary emergency situation, this is. Some people assume that there are Individual Retirement Account penalties for earning less conventional financial investments, like buying as well as marketing residences within the account. While there are some prohibited deals that would create the account to shed its tax advantages, there are most likely fewer than you believe. Buying Gold As Investment

decided to hop on my bullshit, so! here’s the hockey project!NHL !

taglist: @kidsarentallwrite

notes under the cut - 

there are three teams that exist in the hockey project’s NHL that do not exist in the real NHL: 

the port sterling skimmers (port sterling, delaware) - colors: teal and gray 

the portland silver seals (portland, oregon) - colors: bright blue, white, and a deep hunter green 

the kansas city scouts (kansas city, missouri) - colors: blue, red, gold-yellow 

the kansas city scouts did exist in the real NHL, but relocated to new jersey and became the new jersey devils in the mid-1980s. i chose to bring back the kansas city scouts as i have previously established that the new jersey devils were extant when jolene “big patty” pattison was an active NHL player in the mid-1970s, so we’re going back and rewriting some history. also, i needed another central division team. welcome back to the NHL, kansas city! 

as a result of my additions to the league, the arizona coyotes get bumped to the central division after the 2021 seattle expansion

the NHL has not yet released the name of the 2021 seattle franchise, so for now that remains a (?) 

i really hope it’s the ‘seattle kraken,’ though, i think that would be sexy

metropolitans is also a good option tbh

and finally, my most important note: scrivener hates charts. hates them. it crashed twice as i was trying to mock this up