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#cosplay help
lutaviacosplay · 3 months
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Tutorial on how I proportion cosplays on my very short body!
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fabrickind · 8 months
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Hella Big Skirts panel
Ever wanted to make a hella skirt? Wondering how to keep your hella big skirt puffy? Join cosplayer fabrickind to learn the ins and outs of patterning, sewing, and supporting the large, fluffy skirts of your dreams!
This is just the bare bones of the panel, as many of the examples were elaborated on in-person, and it is just the slides, not any of my notes. It is not meant to be exhaustive or definitive, and is just meant for general advice and suggestion purposes only. If anyone has feedback they would like to give, feel free to do so. That said, I hope that people find this information useful.
Here is a link to a pdf of the presentation. You may download for personal use, but please do not alter the presentation, repost without permission, or do any sort of other unauthorized use. (If you have a question about how you can use this presentation, please send me a message with your question and we can work it out. I promise I’m not scary. ;]) Feel free to reblog this post as much as you want, though. I do these panels and post them because I want the information to be shared.
I hope someone finds this helpful! :]
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eufiemoon · 27 days
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How to Make: Electronic Wings for Cosplay
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Hello Everyone! It's been a while since I last uploaded a written tutorial on here and since I just finished and wore my Dame Aylin cosplay this last weekend it seemed appropriate to jump back in with a tutorial on one of the costume pieces!
Her wings were the star of the show this weekend and I know a lot of people were curious about how I made them! A huge source of knowledge and inspiration behind these wings was this video by Axceleration, I made a few changes to the frame shape and electrical circuitry for mine but her tutorial was a huge stepping stone to give me the confidence to tackle them myself!
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Health and Safety:
When working with Sintraboard (as well as other thermoplastics) it is incredibly important you wear a respirator as well as goggles when heating, moulding and cutting it. The fumes this plastic will give off when heated up are no joke! Make sure you're in a well-ventilated space!
Basic tool safety knowledge is also really important! wearing gloves when using power tools can be more dangerous in most situations, so always be aware of where your hands are vs where the tools are. Always cut away from yourself and take things slowly, don't panic.
Electrical safety! You're working with live wires and circuitry! make sure your hands are dry, you aren't touching the bare wires at any point when they are connected to a power source, and if you choose to solder anything, make sure you're wearing heat-proof gloves and a mask in a ventilated space!
Tools
Wire stripper
Screwdriver and wrench
Dremel - I recommend the Dremel 3000 rotary tool personally! Some essential Dremel bits you'll need for this include, a sanding bit, drill bit (smaller or same size as your screws/bolts), and a small/narrow cutting bit. These will usually come with the Dremel!
Heat Gun (A hairdryer will not get hot enough to heat the Sintraboard!!)
Pipe cutter (alternatively you can use a hacksaw for this!)
Hacksaw
Ruler
Scissors (for cutting fabric straps)
Materials
Heat shrink Tubing
2 core electrical wire
switch (you want a three position, six pin switch, like this one, even better if it has the Screws on the pins! otherwise you'll need a soldering kits to solder the wires to the pins.
2x 8AA 12v Battery Holders
2x 12v Linear Actuators (Mine had a stroke length of 100mm)
21.5mm PVC Pipes (I got 2x 3m Lengths)
2x 21.5mm PVC Pipe straight couplers
6mm 8"x12" Sintraboard
Nuts/Bolts/Screws (I used M5 bolts for the base & Actuator connectors and M6 screws to attach the hinges to the pipes! You'll need Washers for every Nut & Bolt!)
Hinges (I used 2.5cm wide hinges that were skinny but long so they would just about fit along the PVC pipe! 3" gate hinges would work!)
50 metre Polythene Jiffy foam roll (in retrospect this was ALOT of foam, you could definitely get away with maybe a 20-30 metre roll! I now have a load leftover XD)
16 AA Batteries (I used 16 and had enough for the whole day with them on, I think They'd probably be enough for another half a day-full day too! but have spares just in case!)
Webbing strap ( I went for grey to match my base suit colour!)
Buckle - as wide as the webbing strap you use!
3 metres of white cotton fabric (or whatever colour wings youre going for!)
Optional
Zipties (for cleaning up the wires)
Lets Go!
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Sintraboard is this wonderfully stable thermoplastic that is relatively easy to cut into (with the right tools) and when heated allows you to mould its shape! I started by using a mannequin and heating the Sintraboard with a heat gun for a few minutes to make it pliable, I recommend using gloves for this part as the materials gets VERY HOT! Press the board into the shape of the mannequin's back, taking note of the edges especially! you want this board to sit as comfortably to your body shape as possible as it makes a huge difference to how long you can wearing the wings for in this backplate is comfy!
Once shaped, I placed it against my back to make sure it was a good fit, heating again and making any alterations I needed (again don't place bright hot plastic to your bare skin! wear protective clothes and wait till its slightly cooler to do this, with the help of a friend!). I then took a hacksaw and rounded the corners, before sanding the edges with my Dremel! Try to avoid cutting off loads, just enough to make things less likely to snag.
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3. I then cut in four holes, wide enough to feed my webbing strap through, two at the top and one on either side below where my arms would sit! I measured the webbing strap by firstly feeding them through the top holes and pinning them, and then bring the strap over my should to everything sits where it should and seeing where the strap hits the side hole and cutting the length there! you'll also want a strap that attaches across the chest, meeting in the centre with a buckle!
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4. After sewing the straps closed I was able to move onto the PVC pipe structure! This may change slightly depending on the finished shape you want but I needed the PVC pipes to come out from inside a breastplate so had a particularly angle as well as character references to work with! I began by heating the pipe over my heat gun and flattening a portion of it under a heavy object so it would sit much more flush against the backboard and sit better underneath my breastplate before moving onto securing the first portion of the structure to the backplate. This mainly involved lots of try-ons and measuring to make sure the angles were correct and symmetrical and was quite fiddly but well-worth the effort! I'll include a diagram of the general shape I went with below:
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5. I wanted my wings to be relatively modular for ease of travel so I needed to make sure certain portions of them could come away from other parts easily, so I popped a straight coupler on the top of the pipes that were attach to the breastplate, this also meant I could slot the breastplate over these shorter pipes and wear everything correctly! Then these second pipes slot on and at the other end they are attached via hinges to the longest portion of the pipe 'skeleton', Diagram below:
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6. Now that the skeleton was put together, it's time for the electrical stuff! It's a good idea to figure out where your circuit is going to lay on the skeleton - consider if you want the battery packs mounted the the backplate or, like me, put them inside the actual wings in removeable pockets for easy access and removal for battery changes. all your wires will go through the switch so deciding where you want to place that is very important! Mine was placed just over my shoulder on the front side, mounted to the PVC pipe with a metal cover I drilled a hole into to slip the switch through and then drill through the pipe.
I've included another diagram below that explains all the electrical circuitry, including which wires go on which pins on the switch!
Important to note: The linear actuators need to be placed and bolted into the PVC pipes at *exactly* the same angle on each side, any slight deviation will lead to the wings going up wonkily! So take your time and make as many adjustments as necessary.
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7. You can extend your wires by adding on the electrical wire, just match the colours, and put heat shrink tubing over the connections to hide the live wires! I ended up zip-tying the wires into organised bundles once the wings were done to help keep everything safe from snags.
8. Now its time for the Wings themselves! I drafted my base pattern by just draping the white cotton fabric I had over the wing when it was fully extended. I then pinned the wings to the shape I wanted them to be along the bottom before cutting along the pins. I ran the fabric through my sewing machine to close the bottom edge, leaving a gap wide enough by the wing base so I could slip the wing on and off, closing it with velcro. I also added little fabric pockets inside of these to hold my battery packs, which also connected via velcro for easy removal!
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9. Now that I had a wing base I was able to begin making feathers! I cut out a total of 800 feathers out of polythene jiffy roll for these wings, in 6 different styles and using real life bird wings to dictate the shapes I used and where I placed them. I ended up hot gluing every individual feather onto the white fabric base, going row by row until every side was covered, the wing covers themselves are super light because of the foam feathers and they shine light through them in a really magical way!
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Optional: I also ended up going over these feathers with my airbrush and some super light beige paint to help darken the shadows, this is entirely optional and may change depending on the wings you're looking to make!
When in neutral position and in extended position the wings looks like this:
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Mine had a wingspan of about 7ft total when fully extended but when in neutral position they were fairly close to my own proportions! mainly staying behind me and weren't much of a problem in a packed con hall!
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Photo by: Helloimfran (on Instagram and Twitter)
I hope this tutorial helped and if there are any questions about anything in specific don't hesitate to reach out at [email protected] or on my instagram or twitter (@eufiemoon)
Happy Crafting!
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im-not-a-l0ser · 6 months
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Nerdy Prudes Must Die Cosplay Finds
According to my bsf, I have a skill toward finding exact or identical articles of clothing to characters, so I did that with Nerdy Prudes Must Die.
So, lets start with my favourite, Richie.
Here is Richie's sweatshirt
Here is Richie's pattern shirt. Oh, and here's another one.
I can't find an exact vest for him because there's not enough identifiable factors. I think you can look through black fishing vests and black cargo vests.
This is the closest to Peter's sweater as I could find, but it is a bit expensive (40 usd), so I do think I'll keep hunting, I'll update if I find a cheaper one.
Okay, now Steph. Here's her shirt on amazon.
And one from Target. And a similar one from Hot Topic, but the print looks more red than black.
Here's Grace's vest. If y'all want me to look for her shirt and bow, I can, but I figured they're not as important to match
Here's also a more masc one, if you're doing something genderbent, or you're masc presenting and want something you can re-use
I found a bow for her, here ya go
Here is Ruth's sweater. @doublestandardlove found it. My dumbass didn't even realise she had a mushroom on her sweater, so I couldn't find it. So thank you Kale.
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hopelichtner · 1 month
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Alright nerds, I'm like 200 pages into the first book and I'm already DYING (lol) to cosplay Gideon Nav.
For reference, I'm six foot two, two hundred and forty pounds, 46 D, a hobbyist weightlifter, and dress like The Terminator (T-800 model) on a regular basis, inlcuding large motorcycle boots.
Issue is, I've got big long blonde hair and am loth to cut it!
An undercut is probably inevitable for my transbian ass anyway, but I'm extremely open to styling options to make it work!
Side braid? Itchy wig? Shitload of Aqua-Net? Help!
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bogmonstergeneral · 7 months
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One of my favorite things in the whole wide world is an ultra-accurate cosplay. I’m talking exact name brands. Obviously, this can be tough, because media in question will very rarely go out of their way to tell you what the character is wearing. Shoes, in particular, are very difficult.
I really like shoes. More so, I really like good leather shoes. The kind that last you your whole life. Currently, I’ve been hyperfixated on Metalocalypse, and today, we’re talkin boots.
Welcome to:
Bog’s Boot Basics: Metalocalypse Edition
I think people are scared of leather. I’m here to tell you that leather will not hurt you. You will not save the planet by buying a pleather boot. Actually, not only is pleather horrible for the planet, it’s also gonna cost you more in the long run because pleather isn’t built to last.
Say it with me: Leather is more sustainable than pleather.
I’m serious. Stop buying pleather boots off amazon for your cosplays. Stop buying pleather, period.
Most of the boots (and sneakers) I’m showing you today will not only elevate your cosplay, but also last you for the rest of your natural days. If you buy them secondhand, they have probably lived longer lives than you. Leather fucking rocks if you take care of it.
This all being said: These are not super budget-friendly options. Good new boots are an investment, and sometimes you have to pay a little more. If you’re not able to do that, these can often be found on ebay at lower prices, and very often at second-hand stores.
Ok, that aside, we can jump in.
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I’m stealing a pic from the comic because it shows all their shoes. Although Skwis and Toki’s boot colors are actually reversed here - Skwis wears black boots, Toki wears brown in the show. Blah blah, anyway.
Nathan Explosion
Nathan wears some sort of single buckle, black tall boot. For our sake, we’re calling them biker boots.
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Single buckle, slightly slouchy at the ankle, low heel. No laces or visible zippers.
Nathan does, in fact, ride motorcycles. Because of this, I’m going on a limb and saying these are actual biker boots. Nathan also, in fact, has money, and Harley Davidson boots are a fantastic choice for this.
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Here’s a pair of Harley Chalmers with an extra buckle - no foul there, these are cunty as hell and I’d totally wear them anyway.
Pro: Fucking brutal
Con: Brutal fucking price tag at $200 new.
Honestly, if you’ve got the money and you want a sick pair of boots… buy em. Harley’s last forever.
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The Harley double-zip riding boot is a slightly cheaper option, sitting around $100-$120.
Honestly, these are gonna be easy to find. Your keywords here are “Tall biker boot with buckle” or something along those lines. That’s doable. I also see a lot of secondhand Harley’s going for really reasonable asking prices, so always check all your thrift stores and ebay (depop and mercari are kinda a crapshoot, but always worth looking.)
Skwisgaar Skwigelf/Toki Wartooth
These are the boots that made me make this post, because I saw them and immediately thought “there’s no fucking way they’re walking around in those 24/7,” because those are old school field boots.
Ask any person who’s ever ridden a horse over the age of 30 if they can take a look in the backs of their closets, because they most definitely still have a pair of these boots. Every equestrian had at least one pair of these torture devices, and they will outlive you.
Here’s an example of a black pair and a brown pair:
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Pros: You can get these on ebay for anywhere between $20-$100. Facebook market place is full of them too.
Cons: These were made for you to wear while sitting on a horse all day, heels down. When you walk in them, they will pinch the everloving fuck out of your heels, and this leather is too thick and stiff to soften. If you’re gonna walk around in these on a convention floor, please bring a change of shoes because you will fucking need them.
But these are so easy to find and they usually shine up really well. If you don’t have leather conditioner (which you should if you own leather shoes) olive oil works in a pinch.
You also usually have a couple different calf options here, so you can tack on “wide calf” or “tall calf” or “slim calf” etc etc depending on your needs.
Your keywords here are “Old school equestrian riding/field/hunt boots.” So fuckin easy.
William Murderface
It pains me to say this. But that dildo fuckhead is wearing Demonias.
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Look at him. He knows what he’s doing. I use the term Dildo Fuckhead affectionately btw, please don’t mistake me for a Murderface hater. I love him.
Honestly, I think you could get away with calling these mid-calf’s, but they’re probably technically tall boots.
Obviously I hate Demonias. These plastic fucking emo Barbie boots are worth approximately $8 and a cup of Kraft mac n cheese. They will cost you well over $100. Fuck that.
I’ve heard that older New Rocks are good alternatives? I have a friend that backs that claim up, but I don’t have a pair to confirm that. I’m sure there’s some Doc Martens you could sub in but I couldn’t find any matches under $400.
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These are a pair of New Rocks. They’re… that I guess. Kinda cool. He’s probably not even really wearing Demonias but like, that’s what they are. To me. In my heart.
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Here’s a pair of Demonia Riot-18BK. I guess. They’re about $133.
Murderface somehow has the most difficult boots for me to find. Plenty of cheapo Temu options, but I’m not here to show you those. Please let me know if you buy a pair of Temu boots so I can come to your house and break every fucking lamp you own.
Your keywords are “Tall boot with buckles” or “tall biker boots with buckles” or anything along those lines.
I feel like you’ve got a little more room for interpretation on Murderface’s boots, so long as their tall boots and they’ve got the buckles, you’re golden.
Wild Card Round: Pickles the Drummer
Man is wearing adidas!!! Pickles cosplayers are the comfiest motherfuckers in the convention hall.
Campus 00s, Samba OGs, Handball Spezial, Superstars, and Racer V 2.0 are all going to get you extremely close renditions of his shoes. The racer’s are my everyday shoe when I don’t wanna wear boots and those fuckers are. So comfy. Wear em without socks, who fuckin cares. I bet Pickles doesn’t even own socks.
If you’re going for Snakes N Barrels Pickles, try looking up “red Justin cowboy boots.” Justin’s are my go to brand because they last forever (I have a pair from the 70s) and they’re pretty comfy. They’re work boots, so they’re made to be worn/worked in all day.
If you’re made of money, buy yourself a pair of Tecovas. Those are the nicest cowboy boot you’ll ever own.
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Blam! Bootboard moodboard! I probably should have done this with all of them.
Anyway. Have fun, remember that inaccurate pieces don’t make or break a cosplay, this is just for fun and to elevate whatever you’ve got going on. Wear your shoes until they fall apart (that’s what i do. get your moneys worth), be kind to your feet, be kind to your shoes (actually you can be pretty harsh to leather so long as you do a little aftercare. this is an innuendo, but also please clean and condition your leather pieces.) and be kind to the planet. Leather is better than pleather. You are paying a premium for plastic. Don’t do that.
(Lemme know if this is cool/useful btw. I would be so happy to find boots/brands of clothing for your cosplays. I think my inbox is open.)
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girlwhowaitedtv · 15 days
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Cosplay help
I'm looking to get back into cosplaying after many years of not doing it. I was just hoping for some help finding sites to get stuff, or finding good tutorials to make stuff etc I'm currently wanting to cosplay as Blackbeard and Stede Bonnet from OFMD And Nandor and Laszlo from WWDITS Theres others too but this atm is what I would like to do, and I need to have at least one ready for August for a convention local to me so any help would be greatly appreciated <3
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the-apology-dance · 3 months
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Crowley Wings (Cosplay Help)
I am planning on going as a femme Crowley to a cosplay convention in my town, and I am hoping to make Crowley’s wings as well. I am wondering if anybody has suggestions on making them, as I am planning on trying to make flexible and lightweight wings that can be moved along with my wrists.
If anybody has any suggestions on how to do this, or have done it before, please let me know! I would really enjoy the help! Thank you!
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buunicosplaytips · 2 months
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How To Cosplay On A Budget
As someone who is starting cosplay or has been cosplaying for awhile you’ll notice that it can be an expensive hobby, even the cheapest cosplays can be up to $100 in supplies, but with this list you’ll be able to save a little money on your cosplays!
Closet cosplays
Closet cosplays are cosplays consisting of clothes in your closet, they’re super easy and an interesting way to get into the mind of the character your cosplaying and seeing what they would wear casually, now it’s not as popular as normal cosplays, but if your cosplaying a character that has a lot of costume changes or dresses like you this can be your best bet, with closet cosplays you can add accessories that can tie into the character like colors or something that symbolizes them so people can recognizes you, this is honestly the cheapest way to cosplay and an easy start to cosplay too
2. Buy second-hand
There are many cosplayers that either scrap their cosplays or have old cosplays they would like to sell. You can find second-hand cosplays on etsy, facebook groups, and websites like lumikha, whose sole purpose is selling scrapped or old cosplays! Now I dont have too much experience buying second-hand cosplays, but friends have told me it's a great way to save money. Prices may vary depending on the seller and the make of the cosplay, whether that be handmade or bought previously, so I would keep that in mind.
3. Borrowing cosplays from friends
If you have friends who cosplay as well, you can ask them if it would be ok to borrow their cosplays. If they say yes, congrats, you have a cosplay! Just keep in mind that it's borrowed, so it might not fit well and take good care of it.
4. Recycling old cosplays
Now if you have older cosplays that you dont wear anymore you can totally recycle it into something else, if two characters have a similar style or have the same articale of clothing like a shirt or pants, you can definitely resuse it, cosplay is about being crafty, so working with what you have is all apart of the craft.
5. Thrifting
Thirft stores are going to be your heaven as a cosplayer. I've thrifted so many pieces for my cosplays throughout my cosplay journey. As long as you have a photo of the character, you can find pretty much anything that your character needs, if your character has a specific piece that you can't thrift you can diy a clothing item into it, for example if a character has a vest that has a specific pattern on it you can buy a vest thats the base color and paint on the details, almost every cosplayer does this for every cosplay.
Thank you for reading! If you have any questions, feel free to ask me!
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starlightbelle · 5 months
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I don’t know if there’s a platform for this on here but I’ve always wanted to ask this so I’m posting it anyway
Cosplayers — especially those cosplayers who manage to look dead-on like that character just irl — how do you do that?
Like I imagine a lot of research goes into deciding which shapes/features the character would have irl and how to sculpt your own features into that…and I’ve tried but any advice at all (or a tutorial even) would be lovely
I wanna get into cosplay but not sure where to start and I really want the whole thing to be believable 😅
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lutaviacosplay · 3 months
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A cosplay tutorial on how to pose for photoshoots, no matter what you look like and what you're wearing -- with example shots to help guide you along.
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fabrickind · 2 months
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Finding Cosplay Photoshoot Locations: Part 1
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📸Want to do cosplay photoshoots but don't know how to find that perfect place to shoot? This tutorial covers how to brainstorm a location for your shoot, logistical and cost concerns with shoot locations, and how to actually find your dream location.
📸This tutorial can be applied to shoots of all types, including but not limited to self shoots, shoots with friends, and shoots with hired photographers. Self shooting or shooting with friends only requires a camera (a phone works!) and possibly a tripod.
Part 1: Location Types
Coming up with the general type of location you want requires some brainstorming about what you want from the shoot. Think about your specific goals and types of photos you want and how certain types of locations would work for your goal. Remember you can always do multiple shoots for the same costume with different concepts!
For example, if you want big, sweeping shots, you will need a location that allows for wider framing and still looks good, while if you are primarily after shots with closer framing, you can go with a location with only a small usable portion. If you are looking to primarily showcase the costume itself or your posing, a flatter and simpler background works better than a busy background, but if you want cinematic shots or shots where you are existing in the environment as the character, somewhere that can show off the location itself as well as how you exist in it would work better.
Types of Locations
There are three main types of locations for cosplay shoots in relation to the cosplay itself. Of course, you can combine these types and there is a lot of overlap, but thinking of these three location types will help you conceptualize your shoot.
The first type is locations that are similar to something in the series, or an exact location from the series. My cover image is an example of this, where I took photos at the location of the climactic battle of the manga. Most fictional locations don't exist in real life so exactly, however, so think of locations that look similar to where this character might be found. The example on this slide shows a cosplay at a nature preserve with grassy fields and oak trees, which is similar to the locations the character traverses several times throughout the game she is from. This category can also include locations with similar vibes, such as a studio made up to look like a fancy European castle for a character from a series about European royalty, or a shoji screen backdrop for a character who lives in a Japanese-style house.
The second location type is locations with symbolic meaning. These locations showcase something about the themes or character arcs present in the series, and this can be accomplished with anything from specific props and setpieces to the entire background. One shoot I'd love to do with this concept is of Lady Blackpearl staring into a mirror -- this would symbolize her dual personality nature -- or of Lady Oscar wrapped in thorns, with the rose thorns symbolizing her glorious but fragile life. I chose to represent this location type with Ultimecia, a sorceress who wants to compress time so she is the only one who can live in the combined past/present/future, set among ruins. The ruins aren't accurate to the game, but show her crumbling reign marked by the passage of time.
The third location type is locations chosen for pure aesthetics. Obviously all locations are chosen for aesthetics, but these are locations with no deeper meaning and may not represent anything from the series at all. These can range from a simple colored wall backdrop to a sweeping landscape that simply looks good with the colors of the costume. Some examples are the Yasuho Hirose ocean shoot on the slide, where it doesn't represent a particular scene or location in the series but simply looks good with the cut and colors of the costume and the sailor theming, or my Princess White Rose milk bath photoshoot, where again the character never takes a milk bath, but a bathtub full of milk and roses shows off the detail of her floral hat and showcases the opulent nature of a rose-themed princess.
Requirements of your Shoot
Once you have a general concept, think of what is required to fit that concept. This can be as general as specific backgrounds or types of backgrounds to as specific as particular items at the location or particular lighting setups. Some shoots might need specific props, such as furniture to sit or lounge on, and props that won't work in a public location, such as realistic weapons that may cause panic or worse. Also keep in mind any accessibility needs, whether it is an accessible location in general to accommodate a disability or a need that is caused by the costume itself. Check not just the specific area you want to shoot, but how to get there from the parking lot or transit stop. Finally, keep in mind that unsecured outdoor locations, such as a park or beach, are locations where you can't change things about the location and you may encounter other people. Discussion of how to be respectful of such locations is in part 5.
Stay tuned for the rest of the parts~!
Links to other parts: 1 Location Types, 2 Discovering Locations, 3 Indoor vs Outdoor Locations, 4 Location Permissions, 5 Location Logistics
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costumesexpalined · 4 months
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First things first, basic materials for basically any cosplay.
No need for sewing machines or even embroidery hoops, they’re pretty new in the grand scheme of things and people made insane stuff without them for millenia after all.
(I actually recommend learning hand sewing FIRST, it lets you learn how to fix your stuff in a pinch and is way easier to get into. It’s slower, sure, but it also lets you make finer, more consistent seams and if you have sensory issues tied to sound it’s FAR less likely to set you off. Plus, it’s calming and frankly impresses the hell out of people at competitions and the like and some groups (like re-enactments) do not count machine made things at all in their competitions and standards.)
All you need to sew clothing is a needle, thread, scissors, a measuring tape, a pencil and sharpener or chalk to mark things in a washable way, fabric and time.
If you aren’t totally confident in being able to track seams or keep them even, straight pins or clips helps hold stuff together. You also want these if you don’t want to transfer a pattern from paper to the fabric with drawn lines, but that’s also not exactly needed since I go off the base shapes and measurements. If you aren’t confident with holding material extremely taught while you work on embroidery or bead work and the like, a good embroidery hoop can be found second hand for pretty cheap and you can usually find a really good one for under $10 usd at a craft store with an embroidery section (with $10 being a MASSIVE one, I recommend getting a 6 inch or less unless your doing something at a standing one, which is overkill most of the time).
I’ll explain how to use the materials later, but everyone has trouble with fabric and I’ve had people balk at the cost before, so here’s where to start (or if your on a tight budget)
- broadcloth: cheap cotton, comes in a whole array of solid colors and a staple of cosplay. Be sure to make certain you don’t make something too tight with this, it isn’t the best at holding up to extreme strain. Typically about $5 usd a yard… full price.
- quilting cotton: slightly more enxpensive and usually patterned in some way broadcloth. If you go to a fabric store they will have TONS of this. Averages about $6-8 usd a yard full price, depending on the brand and store.
- old linens: a cosplay classic. Go to goodwill or Facebook marketplace or a garage sale or something and buy up a bunch of old bed sheets and stuff or some curtains and be ready to get dirty with dye, bleach, and a lot of prayers. Best to aim for solid white, makes it easier, unless you want that specific color/pattern. Upside is that these make bigger pieces easier to make. Think cloaks, super big skirts, “Aladdin” pants, things that have a high depth AND width to the piece you need. Lowers the seam count, at least.
- Muslin: I will have an unhinged rant about historical vs modern muslin later on, but this is a fabric you can get for as little as ¢50 a yard in some cases used for a pattern making method called “draping” that will also be explained at a later date. It’s thick, completely undyed/unbleached, and sturdy enough to take some abuse and doesn’t gray too bad. It’s shit compared to historical muslin, but it does its job as a cheap canvas in a pinch. Be warned: these come on VERY short bolts and often aren’t “double wide” like other fabrics, which can be an issue and lead to TONS of seams.
Again, muslin is used to make patterns usually. Will explain “draping” later but it’s pretty self explanatory based on the name.
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craftymermaid · 3 months
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Alright y'all costumers, cosplayers, and apparel makers; what's the best way to make a corset?
I'm trying to make this dress into a reality
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I've got the petticoat and hoop finished and the circle skirt draped and ready to sew, but this is my first time making a boned garment of any type so I need all the advice I can get!
I'm planning on using simplicity's 1183 corset pattern as a base and adding the straps and silver ribbon later.
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(the pattern in question)
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smolldust · 1 month
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where the FUCK do I get those glasses that I see murder drones cosplayers using that glow and can change eyes & color
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jonkentsglasses · 6 months
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Simple Cosplay Notion
HII!! If you're a cosplayer and have notion you can use my template for simple tracking of cosplans and cosplay shopping etc.
Features:
A simple Cosplay Shopping and Components tracker!! I made it as simple as possible. For the components: If you make your cosplay parts just list down the parts of the cosplay, put in the statuses and boom!! You're able to track your progress!! For Shopping: Just place the needed Materials, put in the price and it will calculate all the sum of needed expenses. You can also track when you get the materials, whether you buy it online, in person, or have it on hand!! For materials that you buy online you can bookmark the product link as well.
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A notes and reference Gallery for well... notes and references for your costume/character.
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i made the homepage as simple as possible (so it wouldn't be cluttered) but you can customize it however you want!!
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So if ever you use this template feel free to let me know!! You can also send me a DM if you want anymore templates for Cosplay!!
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