Re-posting this video my bf took last year - when I saw those two 'darker' patches, I knew I have to get more fabric and replace them. ASA I get the hems finished, I'll have to get him to take a new video.
{PS - I saw more of this fabric at JoAnn's - not sure if it's a new run (it was discontinued) or leftover stock from last year. Now that they have a new sale - I will buy up all the rest that I can!}
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Evening Cape
Emile Pingat
1885-1889
Emile Pingat had a proclivity for designing carefully finished dresses and outerwear which made him one of the top three French fashion designers during the second half of the 19th century. Active between 1860 and 1896, Pingat was adroit at manipulating multiple textiles and trimmings into a cohesive and elevated garment. He was inspired by design elements of other cultures and often reinterpreted them into his own work, making them unique and intriguing. His elaborately decorated and impeccably tailored outwear was particularly sought after.
The bustle silhouette was the prevalent style of any 1880s woman's wardrobe. This cape mimics that silhouette, allowing the wearer to maintain the shape created by her dress underneath. The rich color of the royal blue velvet is evocative of the original wearer who at that point in time would have been seen as a precious jewel who required continual attention and assistance. That perceived helplessness is also reflected in the cape's lack of armholes, which would limit easy mobility. Pingat's treatment of the trim completes the luxurious quality of the garment with a liberal application of guipure lace in vertical lines emphasizing the statuesque, but somewhat removed, appearance of the wearer.
The MET (Accession Number: C.I.60.6.4a, b)
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La Mode illustrée, no. 11, 16 mars 1863, Paris. Toilettes et Etoffes des Mins au Louvre, r. de Rivoli. Ameublements de la Mon de Commission Générale, r. d'Hauteville 53. Chapeau de Mme Aubert, r. Nve. des Mathurins 6. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney
Description de toilettes:
Toilette de printemps. Robe de popeline unie gris-lilas. Le bas de la jupe est bordé avec un large biais en velours de même nuance que la popeline; une tunique de pope-line, bordée d'un biais de velours moins large que celui de la jupe, c'est-à-dire ayant 6 centimètres de hauteur, encadre cette tunique arrondie, et séparée par devant. Corsage plat, boutonné, garni d'une pèlerine courte bordée de velours; manches demi-larges. Chapeau de crêpe gris-lilas, avec touffes de plumes pareilles.
Toilette de dîner. Robe de velours, nuance brun dore, à reflets jaunes; le bas de la jupe est garni avec trois bandes de taffetas blanc, recouvertes d'entre-deux en guipure noire, et encadrées d'une sorte de passementerie picot, nuance dorée; corsage décolleté, manche courtes; berthe carrée et étroite, marquée par une band de taffetas blanc, recouverte de guipure noire. Couronne de fleurs en plumes, nuance brun doré, entremêlé de plumes en or.
Résille en or, contenant les cheveux, et rattachée a couronne de fleurs; broche et bracelets en or, avec filets d'émail noir, et pendeloques de perles. Talma de sati blanc, avec application de pattes en guipure noire, et entièrement doublé d'hermine.
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Spring ensemble. Gray-lilac plain poplin dress. The bottom of the skirt is edged with a wide velvet bias in the same shade as the poplin; a poplin tunic, edged with a velvet bias less wide than that of the skirt, that is to say having 6 centimeters in height, frames this rounded tunic, and separated in front. Flat, buttoned bodice, trimmed with a short velvet-lined cape; half-wide sleeves. Hat of gray-lilac crepe, with tufts of similar feathers.
Dinner ensemble. Velvet robe, golden brown shade, with yellow reflections; the bottom of the skirt is trimmed with three bands of white taffeta, covered with black guipure inserts, and framed with a kind of picot trimmings, golden shade; low-cut bodice, short sleeves; square and narrow berthe, marked by a band of white taffeta, covered with black guipure. Feather flower crown, golden brown shade, interwoven with gold feathers.
Fishnet in gold, containing the hair, and attached to a crown of flowers; brooch and bracelets in gold, with nets of black enamel, and pendants of pearls. Talma of white sati, with application of black guipure tabs, and entirely lined with ermine.
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When I first made this cape in 2022, I had to make it fit the yardage that I had, so at the time I was unable to do the extension on the corners with the piles going in the correct directions. I have since acquired more yardage and am changing the inserts so that they line the piles up correctly!
Not a major thing; most people might never notice - but it drove me crazy! We will get the hem re- attached and no one will ever know the difference! Sometimes being a costumer makes you sweat the details, and since I am making this for myself, it damn well better be right! LOL!
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Cloaksforall Sewalong Step 3 - Sewing the hood
Hood opening
We start with making the hood opening look nice.
Take the two hood pieces, and on each fold the long opening edge down twice so that the fold is on the inside (wrong side of the fabric), pin and sew. If your fabric is very thick, you may have to bind it with bias band instead. (That's what I'm going to do on my new cloak, so explanation will be there.
Joining the hood pieces
Lay the two pieces of the hood on top of each other, matching the sewn opening edges. Pin the top and back together about a cm from the edge, leaving the opening and the bottom free.
Sew along the purple dotted line, making sure to go back and forth a few stitches at the start and end.
Now it's time to press your seam to make it look nicer. Heat up your iron, making sure to pick the low heat synthetic option if you're not sure what fibre your fabric is (test the iron on a fabric scrap!), and put the iron on the stitches for a few seconds before moving on to the next patch of stitches.
The levelled up approach is to also press your seam open. This looks like this:
You can use the rounded end of your ironing board to get easier access to the seam.
Finish the seam of what you have just sewn by sewing over the edge with a zigzag stitch. (Generally the second stitch option on machines).
That's enough for now, tomorrow we'll sew the hood to the cloak.
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my wizard wig set didn't have eyebrows in it like it was supposed to, and i was going to walk to the nearest cvs to see if they have any silver brow mascara or whatever, but now it's snowing so i think i will be comfy cozy instead.
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