"Having stepped away from the stove, my understanding of food is far greater. It sounds odd, but when you've been engrossed in cooking, you become, to a certain extent, lost in what you're doing. Seventeen or eighteen hours a day in the kitchen not only stunts your growth socially; it can also stunt your growth in cooking terms. You become blinded. You are just working, working, working. Routine. Standards, standards, standards. Now that I'm no longer under that pressure, I find I can look at a dish, mentally dissect it and see a way of improving it far better than I could then. I can sit down and work things out more easily. I reflect well and am better at simplifying, working out concepts and understanding food.
A young chef has a habit of overworking things and it takes great confidence to believe in your produce and yourself. I have discovered that I didn't need to put that much effort in. For instance, in the old days I would have put a huge amount of effort into designing a Dover sole dish, but now that I'm out of the kitchen, I know that it should be served plain and simple, with only a little bit of lemon juice and perhaps a splash of olive oil. Delicious. I no longer want complicated food. If I decided to cook again tomorrow, I would do uncomplicated dishes. My menu would contain things I like to eat, and if that's whelks with a bit of malt vinegar and white pepper, then that's what I'd do. It might be fresh crab, seasoned nicely, with a bit of olive oil and some hot toast. Or red mullet with sauce vierge—olive oil, lemongrass seeds, tomatoes and basil. {...} The problem with a lot of chefs today is that they don't have a classical foundation. If food is that good, you don't have to do that much to it."
“At this moment in time, I haven’t found myself as a cook. I’m still sort of in the middle of a revolution of myself. I don’t know what my ideas of cooking are. Every so often I make a new dish and then I think, that’s me. I don’t know what my abilities are yet, and that's what I’m still trying to understand is myself.”
Here's a test for people: are you the kind who thinks Marco Pierre White is a boss for returning all 3 of his Michelin stars or the kind that thinks he's an idiot.
I recently got hold of a copy of Marco Pierre White’s White Heat book from the library. It is a cookbook but really it’s a capture of a time and a place: when Marco was on top of the culinary world and the absolute hottest thing in chefs and cookery. I hadn’t read it before; I devoured it an hour and immediately ordered a copy for myself.
The photography, all black and white, is still crisp,…