“ Il corpo è sporco, l’intelligenza un peccato. Le preghiere, ancora ancora, il peggio erano le vite dei santi, e delle sante in particolare: Agnese, l’agnello bianco, torturata, data in pasto ai leoni, fustigata, Blandina, stessa sorte, Maria Goretti, una coltellata al cuore, e Giovanna d’Arco, i lacrimoni versati per lei in classe. Bernadette, quasi analfabeta bambine mie, ma è lei la prescelta dal buon Dio, un’umile pastorella, modesta, povera, non avrete mica creduto che nostro Signore sia andato a cercare dei sapientoni?, avrebbe potuto, certo, ma no, no, pensate ai tre bimbi di Fatima, o ai ragazzi della Salette eccetera. Ascolto affascinata. La semplicità, l’innocenza, la mortificazione della carne, fino al massimo grado, il corpo martirizzato, deturpato dalla scrofola come quello di santa Germana. Ognuna di loro ha sacrificato la propria vita, e non c’è niente di più gradito a Dio, bambine mie. Mentre lasciarsi sciogliere in bocca due deliziosi orsetti di cioccolato, la salita alla fune, parlottare mentre si è in fila sono tutte cose vagamente peccaminose. Il filo rosso è sempre fare dei sacrifici, per esempio impedirsi di parlare quando se ne ha voglia, rinunciare al dolce, lavare i piatti al posto della mamma, ogni volta che c’è qualcosa che non avete voglia di fare, fatelo. Compilate un quadernetto dei sacrifici, annotate tutto. Alcune di noi lo riempivano con lunghi elenchi numerati, fittissimi. Emulazione nella negazione di sé. Può anche darsi che la stessa solfa venga propinata nelle scuole religiose per ragazzi, che siano sottoposti allo stesso regime di purezza e terrore, ma non potranno mai essere vessati quanto noi: hanno il permesso di azzuffarsi, vengono incoraggiati a primeggiare, e i cari preti non hanno così in odio le loro palle, duos habet et bene pendentes. Molto presto, convinta che le donne siano più devote degli uomini: si affollano in chiesa la domenica, mentre mio padre aspetta fino alle Palme per andare a confessarsi prima della comunione di Pasqua, con la morte nel cuore e soltanto per non far scoppiare il finimondo in casa. Convinta, del resto, che sia giusto così, che le donne debbano esserlo, più devote. A nessuno importa se un uomo è religioso o meno, mentre noi ragazze siamo su questa terra per salvare il mondo con le nostre preghiere e la nostra condotta esemplare. Per fortuna mi sento sopraffatta, ben lontana dall’essere all’altezza nonostante gli sforzi, i sacrifici, che non mi colmano della felicità promessa. Combatto per tenere nascosta la mia infamia: la gioia che provo nel collezionare voti alti, nel vedere cose che non dovrei vedere, nel sottrarre caramelle in drogheria. La mia naturale cattiveria. “
Annie Ernaux, La donna gelata, traduzione di Lorenzo Flabbi, Roma, L'Orma editore (collana Kreuzville Aleph), 2021¹; pp. 57-58.
[1ª Edizione originale: La Femme gelée, Paris, Éditions Gallimard, 1981]
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Hike to Parco della Murgia Materana & Sassi Tour - Matera, Italy
We had a busy day today! We started the day off with an early morning hike across the gorge to the park. There is a suspension bridge that allows you to cross the river, to get to it we had to walk a ways into the Sassi area to Porta Pistola. We had some great views and saw this beautiful sculpture next to the road on our way to the path:
We had to skirt around a barrier to get to the path - it looked like the path was closed, but there were other people walking on the path, so we decided to go around the barrier and walk across the gorge. We hiked from Porta Pistola to Belvedere on trail #406, with an out-and-back spur to Madonna delle Tre Porte.
It was a steep descent down to the bridge and the trail was a bit slippery, but we made it down safely. The wildflowers were incredible and the views looking back at Matera were stunning.
As we were coming down the slope, we could hear frogs - they were so loud! We couldn’t see them, but we sure could hear them!
We made it across the suspension bridge - kind of fun to make it rock and roll!
From the other side we could see the frogs swimming around and this turtle (the photos aren’t great due to how far away we were).
Lovely views of Matera as we climbed up the other side of the gorge toward the park.
Sasso Caveoso.
Sasso Barisano.
Our first cave!
View from the second cave - all of the caves were man-made. Called “negative architecture”, because they removed materials to create the structures.
One of many lizards we saw along the way. We also saw one long, black snake - he moved too quickly and I wasn’t able to get a picture.
Chiesa Sant Agnese, our first look at one of the rock churches:
Another lizard, who was willing to show off his colors along the trail:
One of the dried flowers we saw near Belvedere, the overlook in the park.
Madonna delle Tre Porte - the rock church with three entrances:
We saw a lot of snails attached to plants - it looked like they were responsible for the death of this one:
View from the overlook in the park.
We had to wait for this guy to sprint across our path!
One last look before we made the climb back up to Porta Pistola.
We headed back to our place to cool off and rest a bit, as we had a guided tour scheduled for 1:00 this afternoon. On our way back, we stopped at a local deli and picked up some items to make a little pasta for dinner tonight....we might have also purchased a little wine, bread, olives, and cheese, too!
When we got back to our place, there was a message from the tour company telling us that we needed to be at their office at 12:00 to pay. So we hustled over there and then we had an hour to kill before the tour. We wandered around Matera and took in a few of the churches:
St. Frances of Assisi Cathedral (above) and photos from the inside of the chapel (below).
Amazing organ with painted panels below it.
We did not see the name of this church, it was very tiny and hidden between a couple of buildings.
Chiesa del Purgatorio - yep, Purgatory Church. There were skulls and skeletons on the front and on the door (below).
Our tour lasted for two hours and took us through Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso. We visited a Cave House which allowed us to see how people lived in the caves - basically, they shared the space with their livestock and family. Living with no sewer or water, the only air was what came through the opening/door. The conditions were not good and the people living in the caves suffered due to these poor living conditions.
View of Sasso Caveoso from one of the viewpoints our guide took us to.
Inside the Cave House, looking into one of the living areas in the cave. The stable area was just to the right on the other side of the opening and the family bed was to the left.
One of the troughs that channeled water to the cistern in the cave.
Food storage area in the cave.
We also visited one of the rock churches (above) on our tour. This one was quite elaborate and was used up until the 1950′s. Our guide said that it is difficult to determine how old the caves are due to the negative architecture. Usually, structures can be dated by material that has been used in construction. In the case of the caves, nothing has been added and the sandstone has been there all along, making it difficult to determine when a cave was constructed.
Painting of the crucifixion - notice that there are two arms on the right hand side of the picture, indicating that the scene had been painted over at one time.
View of the caves on the hillside across the gorge from Matera.
One of the flowers that grows in the walls of Matera.
Great view of the gorge and the trail that we did earlier today.
A family of wild boars that came out of one of the caves on the hillside below us during our tour, glad we didn’t run into them on our hike earlier today!
One of the best viewpoints - it is on top of a cemetery. The clouds were amazing and we managed to dodge the rain!
One last look up the gorge and at Sasso Caveoso.
Ciao from Matera!
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minerals + horses + roman deities + french forenames
Abis Abithar Adootones Adozite Aegite Aehedrite Afrah Agnallite Agnese Airie Akcous Akstine Alaite Alcaite Alco Alisite Alite Allege Amagnite Amite Ammagnite Ampre Amreudins Anesite Angstrite Anishmax Anite Annazz Anow Apanite Apathop Aquilite Aquillite Areepous Argar Argiter Arite Arne Aroste Astite Auilavall Auit Aum Aumeldber Aunk Auss Ave Averud Avitite Babotite Ball Banite Barite Barnus Basic Baste Bay Becatry Bedubtray Berite Bessian Bite Blette Bluees Blyberick Boge Bonite Boodite Boolite Bora Botlite Bragor Branite Brenatite Bria Brite Bubeite Budium Bunk Cabenite Caite Calite Call Caltite Camet Cap Carsequa Celerite Cer Ceyite Chachens Chagtow Chales Chand Cherldus Chite Chris Chrisite Chroite Chromel Churbown Clabie Claite Clanite Clauite Clite Coe Colite Coproric Cor Cosmogre Cradite Cuara Cupine Curolite Cybdery Cyleose Cynevite Daveta Dayar Derite Dian Dine Dite Dmic Dockshite Dublue Eatrite Elie Epsconite Ete Euco Eurestite Evarmul Fabite Faispelet Fancorite Faul Feldrik Fergite Fermilite Fidorite Fluc Flues Fly Folite Frasite Fronite Fulsance Funyx Fus Fusite Gant Garine Gehaël Gen Geo Germite Gite Glate Gle Golite Golop Gosite Gostonite Gren Grennares Groxia Grumand Gungbeler Gunkme Gyrock Gyrrite Habena Haforpite Hanite Har Hardigite Haromte Hattry Hauftoite Heargede Hedite Hedmaxite Hemelta Hemite Henne Heyerite Hile Hite Hitrite Hubrop Hugite Huleyite Hyite Hyne Hyte Ine Ins Instrop Iscal Jaciddy Jadectrop Janite Jarosic Jax Jearcorep Jeasm Jefina Jen Jinite Jock Jpopse Jul Justonite Kaite Kal Kaliste Kerdite Kesonoite Kingite Kraberite Kredtite Kuclite Laciaiwer Laite Lancite Larcus Las Laue Leer Ler Lite Lon Lonien Lonite Lonskite Looite Luen Lueta Luo Luordore Lévynite Machan Maerut Magne Mainite Majankme Mal Manclas Mane Manite Mannite Mantite Mar Maric Maroch Masite Matite Maumon Mck Metalite Metite Mettop Mie Mies Mirite Mite Mitel Modite Mogop Molete Molite Mon Mone Mor Morock Musilmwis Naesklite Neocklie Nerite Neslor Nic Nieflue Nis Nite Nockiter Nolite Olds Olk Onal Orbordel Orte Paince Pante Paragas Parbasca Paunk Pein Peite Pel Penop Pent Perberite Perle Phite Phlentite Pis Pite Pitteite Piume PlabsiteI Polin Pon Pop Popop Popun Poriite Pown Pre Prock Prorite Pso Psopoper Pum Punk Pyrock Quatus Quis Ramperock Renite Rennite Rhentiter Rhop Rockina Rocolite Rogue Rokyite Romberock Ronite Roppe Roug Roxferre Roxylane Rugote Rum Rutinaite Régite Saberdigh Sabravite San Sand Sane Sante Sardigite Schap Scophyle Seadontan Seal Selte Sete Shfolcite Sicry Site Smione Sone Sonerry Sonoite Soton Spertialc Sphone Spimeite Spiophydy Spioste Ste Stoite Ston Stonite Stowsong Strestite Strytte Styite Sumanne Swerite Swernaite Swite Sychop Sygonite Syllora Symrigite Sébal Taltite Tan Tandess Thicolite Thisia Thite Thowite Thunk Tite Toustrite Trite Tweetazz Tyrise Ucabaz Ulcite Ulena Ulinnite Ullaryite Urite Urne Ursper Varap Vausic Vic Vistonite Vite Vorax Vorine Wame Ward Warite Warotitel Wodia Wodolite Wootick Wurite Xite Xonite Yane Yason Yte Zacol Zarite Zaïrisite Zhouizite Zina Zine Zino Zite Åkey Élic Éloite Érite
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