Loíza
The coastal town of Loíza is an over 300 year old symbol of freedom, traditions, and spiritual beliefs wrapped in one. Founded by former African slaves from the Yoruba tribe who were brought to Puerto Rico by the Spaniards, the freed African slaves lived with and among indigenous groups. Loíza is an example of two groups coming together from different cultural backgrounds creating el mestizaje (of mixed race) and criollo. It's important to note that Loíza is not the only town in Puerto Rico that has a black population. It does, however, have the island's largest black population. Culturally, the majority of the art, dance, culinary traditions, and art in Loíza are Afro-Puerto Rican.
When the Spaniards arrived to Puerto Rico, they eventually made their way to the mountains leaving some Africans near the Río Grande de Loíza River. This river and its surrounding area was home to a native indigenous group. Intertwining their knowledge, skills, and beliefs gave birth to Bomba, a traditional folklore dance of Loíza, a festival celebration of Santiago Apóstol, and the extraordinary comida criolla (Creole food) culinary experience.
Renowned artist, Samuel Lind, featured above, was raised in Loíza. The artwork in his local studio, Estudio de arte Samuel Lind, explores the town's culture identity and celebrates its proud connection to their ancestors.
Listen as Lind describes the origins of the name "Loíza" and how his painting below, titled "Yuiza" after Cacica Yuiza, Taíno leader when the Spanish arrived, is his interpretation of the town's mestizo history and how it appears in the physical appearance of Loizans:
Visiting Loíza is an unique experience. Its uniqueness is in its physical and spiritual manifestation of hundreds of years of sacrifice, resourcefulness, and resilience. It's living proof of Afro-Boriquen history and pride. It's defiance to colonization and efforts of past blanquenamiento (whitening). African slaves, kidnapped from their homeland, sold, trafficked, and forced to live in unimaginable brutality and fear, held strong to their faith and teachings to lay the foundation of what Loíza is today and who and what it represents. Loíza is a symbol of pride and self-sufficiency despite the odds.
So, how is it that a town like this can exist in 2023? Urbanism, economic development, and laws haven't decreased the importance in and strength of Loíza and its citizens. In fact, the predominantly Afro-Puerto Rican descent of its citizens doesn't,for the most part, negatively interfere with race relationships on the island. Listen as Sr. Raúl Ayala, one of the sons of renowned mask maker, Don Castor Ayala, a founding member of El Batey de los hermanos Ayala, musician, and vejigante mask maker, describes Afro-Puerto Rican racial identity and race relationships in Loíza and Puerto Rico and the history of Loíza's economic development:
Being Afro-Puerto Rican is an identity that the people of Loíza embrace. Being overlooked during economic development made the town turn inward and maintain themselves. They relied and continue to rely on one another to move forward. Despite attempts to keep the town from thriving, Loíza is one of the most well-known towns in Puerto Rico and, for some, in the world because of its origins.
One example of this is El Batey de los Hermanos Ayala. El Batey is a small, but powerful, local museum that honors the innovation and contributions of freed African slaves and indigenous groups. It respects and celebrates vejigante mask making, El Bomba, and its ancestral spirit. In the museum, there are old and new handmade vejigante masks made from coconuts, traditional Bomba drums made from cow skin and new drums, paintings and relics of the past and present.
The vejigante masks of Loíza are recognizable throughout the Caribbean for one, being the only ones made from coconut shells, and two, the horns that protrude from the mask. Below (1st picture) is an over 50-year old red, yellow, green, and black vejigante mask made by Don Castor Ayala (2nd picture) that's proudly displayed in El Batey de los hermanos Ayala.
Festival masks are used throughout other parts of Puerto Rico and the Caribbean for Carnaval, patron saints, and other celebrations. In Ponce, Puerto Rico, for example, masks are used in similar celebratory customs, but those paper mache masks. Only in Loíza are masks still made by coconut. Don Castor Ayala was a famous mask maker and his son, Raúl Ayala, continues in his father's footsteps by making masks the traditional way.
The vejigante masks are painted with bright and bold colors. They are considered, as Mr. Lind comments below, to be a symbol of good for Loizans:
As mentioned by Sr. Ayala and Sr. Lind, coconuts are what make the masks 100% Loizan. Listen as Sra. Adelina Ayala, one of don Castor Ayala's daughters, one of Raúl Ayala's sisters, and a founding member of El Batey de los Hermanos Ayala explains how coconuts make the town's vejigante masks one of a kind:
In late July, these masks and intricately designed costumes are worn to celebrate Santiago Apóstol. Listen as Sra. Ayala comments on the below costume that's worn during the festival and sings a chant that is sung during the celebration:
Vejigante masks and their colors are just one way that Loíza acknowledges its African ancestry. Despite systemic institutions and reforms that skipped over the town, these haven't crushed Loíza's spirit. It's still full of the Bomba spirit. Bomba is the folklore dance (el baile) of Loíza that originated from African slaves. It is not to be confused with formal dancing (la danza). Some may consider danza to be more of a formal style of dancing the Spaniards brought over that was used in theater and at weddings. El baile, Bomba, is an African dance that incorporates drums and a call-and-response. It's not a written composition, but rather a spiritual rhythmic connection. Its tradition originates with slaves playing drums after working for the day. It tells and shows a story that must connect with the body and soul first.
This spiritual connection is to freed African slaves and their beliefs. Similar to the Festival of Santiago Apóstol, Bomba is another example of mestizaje and syncretism. The original Samuel Lind painting below, titled "Energía de Bomba", is explosive and colorful energy. It hangs on a wall in his studio and commands the attention of those who enter the room. Lind comments on what Bomba means to him, the distinct spiritual connection Loíza has to its ancestors, and what it represents:
Traditionally, the drums, originally made from cow skin, like the bottom left image below, are played by men wearing white clothing. Women, wearing turbans and all white or bright colors, are the dancers. Although the drums are played together to create one sound, the rhythm of one drum stands out as it follows the dancer's body movements. This drummer has an important responsibility: he fuses art, dance, music, soul, and passion in each hand strike. Each strike is an acknowledgement of the customs brought to Puerto Rico from West Africa. The drummer feels the beat while watching for the dancer's cues. Upon greeting the drummer, the song and beat continue, but the melody slightly changes with the dancer's movement. No two songs are exactly alike, because each dancer has varying emotions and movements.
Sr. Raúl Ayala plays in one of the oldest Bomba groups, Ballet Folkórico Hermanos Ayala, in Loíza. For over 60 years, this group has performed, taught, and shared Bomba in and outside of the town. Listen as Sr. Ayala shares more about his group and its contributions to teaching and sharing Loíza's African roots:
Learn more Ballet Folkórico Hermanos Ayala on their Facebook page or Instagram profile. View their Bomba videos and photos to experience the African influence in Afro-Puertorican dance and sound of Bomba.
Bomba has transformed to mainstream concerts and reversed traditional gender roles. Ausuba (@ausuba) is Bomba band of female percussionists, singers, and dancers. Their performances are high energy and embrace the passion and Bomba spirit. When moved, dancers of all sexes can dance, but first, they must greet the drummer. Bomba is a way to break free from societal norm and restraints and let your body do the talking and healing. It's a way to communicate with the drums and with your heart. It's a way in which Loíza honors its African ancestors and continues an Afro-Boriquen tradition born from slavery.
Another symbol of African heritage in Loíza is present in its cuisine. From its African and indigenous roots, foods like alcapurrias, tostones de pana, bacalao, bacalaítos, frituras (handheld fried, occasionally baked, dough pockets that are filled with meat (seafood, beef, or cheese), and numerous uses of yuca, plantain, and coconut have produced some of the best criollo cuisine in the world.
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