Issey Miyake 1988 Photographer Irving Penn Newest Cool

ISSEY MIYAKE FW24 RTW

Issey Miyake RTW Runway F/W '24

issey miyake ss23

As the Way It Comes to Be

Designer Satoshi Kondo

«Fashion imitates Art»

• 𝘓𝘢 𝘋𝘢𝘯𝘴𝘦, Henri Matisse, 1910

• 𝘐𝘴𝘴𝘦𝘺 𝘔𝘪𝘺𝘢𝘬𝘦, 𝘚𝘱𝘳𝘪𝘯𝘨/𝘚𝘶𝘮𝘮𝘦𝘳 2020, por Satoshi Kondo

I'm craving some dessert 🍽️

One thing for those who have watched The Boy and The Heron or will watch it. The Japanese title for it is How Do You Live? And Miyazaki stated he was leaving it for his grandson, saying, "Grandpa is moving onto the next world soon but he is leaving behind this film".

The deaths of contemporaries and friends such as Satoshi Kon and Isao Takahata and also the expected successor of Yoshifumi Kondo were things that have always weighed heavily on the back of Miyazaki's mind.

He recognizes the industry and the occupation for how soul crushing it was, grinding up either the spirit or the physical body of those who work in it. He loves and hates the industry he stands on the peak of and fully recognizes how it will probably be the death of him. And he knows it'll leave him unable to say a lot of things to his Grandson.

So How Do You Live? is a lesson. For his grandson. For himself. For his two sons. And probably for anyone else willing to pay attention.

Hayao Miyazaki is a flawed man that makes things so important to so many people. And I think more than any other film of his, in this you get to pull back the curtain a bit and see him at work. And what should be this giant unblemished titan can be seen for what he is, a sad old man who had higher hopes for himself and has even higher hopes for the people he makes his work for.

It's a beautiful thing to see another's humanity in their work. To look past the artifice and glam of commercialized art and find humans behind it. And humans willing to show their humanity and mortality is even rarer. And something to be celebrated. So when you watch it. Or if you've watched it already. Understand that this film is Miyazaki kneeling down, weary after years of weaving dreams and making mistakes, reaching out and saying to you that he hopes you can do better. It's an old man who's made all the mistakes of the world passing it on to you, hoping you do better, and making sure you know it's okay if you don't.

How do you Live? By making mistakes. By messing up. But still moving forward. And still reaching out.

New Religion ニューレリジョン (2022) Director: Keishi Kondo [Osaka Asian Film Festival 2023]

New Religion ニューレリジョン Director: Keishi Kondo [Osaka Asian Film Festival 2023] @oaffpress #OAFF2023 @NEWRELIGION15 @kkfilm_archive

New Religion    ニューレリジョン  「Nyu- Rerijon」 Release Date: 2023 Duration: 100 mins. Director: Keishi Kondo Writer: Keishi Kondo (Screenplay), Starring: Kaho Seto (Miyabi), Satoshi Oka (Photographer), Ryuseigun Saionji (Boyfriend), Daiki Nunami,  IMDB J-horror is effectively like a Frankenstein’s monster these days. When major studios resurrect a character like Ringu‘s Sadako or Ju-on‘s Kayako, there…

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Issey Miyake, Spring/Summer 2024 - Under Satoshi Kondo

Brian Molloy - Fashion Editor/Stylist

Issey Miyake Pleats Please Book, 1998  Newest Cool

ISSEY MIYAKE SS24 RTW

Issey Miyake RTW Runway F/W '24

Paris Fashion Week 23' Debrief

From left to right, top row followed by bottom, I have selected my four favorite looks after reviewing those who showed for Paris Fashion Week 23'.

Look one: Issey Miyake Spring 2024 RTW (Look 20) by Satoshi Kondo

This is something I would wear everyday if I could. An iconic Japanese silhouette, with a long top or dress reaching a mid thigh, either paired with a wide leg trouser or straight tailored long skirt. I also adore asymmetrical sleeves and ruching around the hips, providing the body contour and definition.

Collection Notes: Aside from this look, the whole collection was so special and meaningful after the passing of Miyake just last summer. It was an homage to Miyake's iconic Spring 1998, beginning as a quite literal, almost replication of some of the gowns. 98' was unforgettable; it was as if the models were trying to escape the sheer veiled gowns they were clothed in, posing with their limbs and faces completely covered and restricted. Kondo could not have delivered a more beautiful and timely tribute.

Look two: Marni Spring 2024 RTW (Look 14) by Francesco Risso

I will always fall head over heels for a mini dress that has a fit and cut like this. In some ways, this look reminds me of early Prada, simple girly (yet chic) silhouettes and plaid motifs, but what's new is the mini v-neck, giving a sporty edge. If you look closely at the shoes, you'll see a white leather ballet flat with embossed ribbon-style bows, which obviously I want on my feet right now. This entire look. Right now. As for the rest of the collection? A total skip.

Look three: Loewe Spring 2024 RTW (Look 21) by Jonathan Anderson

The more I look at this, the more I drool over an asymmetrical tutu-skirt paired with a cherry-red plaid collared shirt. Not to mention a cashmere (I'm guessing) moss green sweater tying a fresh and exciting color palette together. The mules, I can skip. Same with the bag, I'm all good. Not to say both are not showing Loewe though, or speaking to Jonathan Anderson's very specific design language. I liked every variation of this look.

Collection notes: Super high-waisted trousers were also a sight to see, paired with the same buttoned-to-the-top collared shirts. The collection wasn't loose or relaxed in anyway, however, it also wasn't uptight, despite blazers with pockets in restraining positions and large-knit sweaters missing armholes. There were even gold belts made out of nails, going through leather shorts, and yet somehow, Anderson creates equilibrium between the slouchy and over-refined.

Look four: Prada Spring 2024 RTW (Look 37) by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simmons

Out of about five favorites, I decided on this look because I believe it best encompasses something I would choose to put on, and includes my favorite highlight from the show; fringe. It's not just fringe though. Its beaded fringe, and in other parts of the collection metallic and printed fringe, even fringe to create collars on shirts! The choice of throwing a clunky leather jacket over is just good juxtaposition, matched with black patent leather pumps. Get this look on somebody cool now.

Collection Notes: My personal highlights were specifically shoulder draping, eclectic fringe (as mentioned,) fluffy pastel layered mesh, and classic Prada embellishments such as punched-out metal holes in various sizes. There were however a few floral patterns I absolutely despised, so it turns out, perhaps, Prada can do some wrong? Or perhaps Miuccia can, because Miu Miu 2024 RTW was absolutely horrendous.

Thanks xx

NOAH "THE NEW YEAR" 2024 Review (Jan 2nd, 2024, Ariake Arena, Tokyo)

1, GHC Jr. Heavyweight Tag Title 3-Way Elimination Match - Alpha Wolf & Dragon Bane (c) vs. Alejandro & Ninja Mack vs. YO-HEY & Tadasuke ***3/4

2, Jake Lee, Jack Morris & Anthony Greene vs. El Hijo del Dr. Wagner Jr., Titus Alexander & Vinnie Massaro **1/2

3, Masa Kitamiya vs. Tomohiro Ishii ****1/2+

4, Go Shiozaki vs. Satoshi Kojima ****

5, Great Sakuya & Nagisa Nozaki vs. Haruka Umesaki & Miyuki Takase **1/2

6, Takashi Sugiura vs. Ulka Sasaki ***

7, Hiroshi Tanahashi & HAYATA vs. Zack Sabre Jr. & Yoshinari Ogawa ***1/2

8, GHC Jr. Heavyweight Championship - Daga (c) vs. Eita ***

9, NOAH/NJPW vs. House of Torture 12 Man Elimination Match - Kaito Kiyomiya, Shota Umino, Daiki Inaba, Shuji Kondo, Ryohei Oiwa & Junta Miyawaki vs. EVIL, Ren Narita, SHO, Yoshinobu Kanemaru, Yujiro Takahashi & Dick Togo ***3/4

10, GHC Heavyweight Championship - Kenoh (c) vs. Manabu Soya ****1/2

11, Naomichi Marufuji vs. Kota Ibushi *

This was my first full NOAH show I've watched in forever and it was a great watch. They pulled in a great crowd of over 5K, it had very good matches up and down the card, two fantastic bouts, but unfortunately it ended with one of the worst matches you're likely to see all year...

Things started hot with the Jr. Tag Title 3-Way. You know what to expect here; lots of crazy spots, not much in the way of traditional "psychology", and 100mph action. The crowd loved this and it was a great way to kick things off. There was confusion over the elimination nature of this one, and had it ended after after the first fall, I think I'd have liked it more, but it was a great little opener with the GLG duo of YO-HEY and Tadasuke eliminating both opponents at 8:48 and 12:24 respectively to win the straps. Things cooled down a tad with the next match, which was decent enough but just your standard 6-Man, which saw the GLG were victorious again.

The next match was something of a Dream Match for me, one that's been teased for a good couple of years now as Ishii and Kitomiya, two of my favourite guys from their respective companies, had an absolute war that is a strong MOTYC only two days in! You know what to expect here, it was tsandard Ishii big match fair, which is always tremendous. They pounded each other with chops, Lariats, headbutts, forearms punches and suplexes for 15:04, before Ishii got the win with the Vertical Drop Brainbuster. Amazing. The next match too was excellent as Go Shiozaki went over ageless veteran Satoshi Kojima, in a battle of the Go-wan Lariats! This was great, and kept relatively short at 13:56. Shiozaki won after an exchange of Lariats. Go formed a new faction called Team NOAH in the post-match.

Next up we got a couple of interesting debuts. "The Great Muta's daughter" Great Sakuya (Riko Kawahata) debuted in a doubles clash which ended in a DQ after she blew the dreaded Dokukiri in poor Umesaki's face. This was very silly, and the crowd were dead for it, but whilst it certainly wasn't great, it certainly wasn't bad either. The next match was better as former MMA fighter Ulka Sasaki battled NOAH legend Takashi Sugiura in a nice little exhibition. Sasaki looked good here, and it featured some good sequences, before Sugiura naturally won at the 11 minute mark with the Olympic Yossen Slam.

After intermission we got the ZSJ/Ogawa vs. Tana/HAYATA tag match. This was really good, as you'd expect, though at nearly 18 minutes it was a little long. They teased a lot of stuff with Zack and Tanahashi for their TV Title match at the Dome tomorrow. Sabre Jr. won for his team when he submitted HAYATA with a crazy leg stretch. The GHC Jr. Title bout was decent enough, as Daga retained over Eita in exactly 13 minutes. I expected a bit more here, and it ultimatly came off as a bit of a squash as Daga dominated the whole thing, despite the crowd really wanting Eita to win. The 6 on 6 Elimationation match was actually a lot of fun and I really enjoyed it. Like everyone else, I'm at the end of my tether with this HoT stuff (and don't even get me started on Narita's inexplicably asinine inclusion in this nonsense), BUT, this match proves if done right, it can be pretty great. Obviously we got all the token House silliness like the never-ending stream of low blows, interference and incompetent refereeing, but it built really well as it boiled down to Kaito and EVIL, with Kiyomiya looking like a hero as he overcame the odds and sent EVIL to the floor with a Shining Wizard at the 26:14 mark to win for the babyfaces.

The first half of the Double Main Event; Kenoh's GHC Heavyweight Title defence against former tag partner Manabu Soya came next and it was another fantastic, hard-hitting war, and another early MOTYC. We all know Kenoh's great, and I've always been a fan of Soya since his All Japan days, but he's kind of lingered in the NOAH mid-card since arriving and gotten lost in the shuffle somewhat. Well this was a coming out party if ever there were one, both guys looked fantastic here, and I was worried someone was going to get legit KO'd at points, given how hard they were hitting each other. Kenoh missed a Moonsault knee drop by a considerable margin at the end there, but recovered well by devastating the big man with some headkicks and got the submission win at 28:36 with the Kenoh Special. Excellent, excellent match. Shiozaki came out in the post match and challenged Strong Fist to a title match, which will be happening on January 13th. Count me in as these two always have great matches together. And this is where I'd recommend everyone just turn this show off...

The Marufuji/Ibushi main event *sigh*... look I'm sure everyone already knows about this match, something that once upon a time was a dream match, but in the harsh realities of 2024, was an abject nightmare. This match was all kinds of bad, as Ibushi came into this thing banged up to oblivion and physically incapable of doing... anything, really. AND IT WENT 33:26!!! Which honestly felt like a good couple of hours watching live. Ibushi announced he was working through a broken hand and foot in the days prior, and when he made his entrance with tears streaming down his face, I feared the worst. The reality is this match shouldn't have happened, or if it did, have it go like 10 minutes maximum or something. And certainly don't have it be the main event! It was total insanity to book this to go north of 30 minutes. But even then, nobody made Ibushi try to do his signature spots in this thing. The guy couldn't even get himself up to go over the ropes on a backdrop, so what made him think attempting a Moonsault to the floor was a wise move? Well, he seemingly broke his ankle doing so, and the match only descended into more of a train wreck from there. The crowd were dead, almost like they were at a funeral, the "action" was a level lower than snail pace, and watching it was a profoundly sad experience. I never thought I'd see the day when the Keiji Muto of 2023 looked more mobile and having more business being in the ring than Kota Ibushi ever. Ibushi won with Kamigoye to put everyone out of their misery, none more so than the two guys in the match, then there was a totally bizarre post match where Kiyomiya and Jake Lee came out and seemingly banished Ibushi from NOAH. Ibushi could barely stand or walk on his way to the back, and this is a match I'll never watch again in my life. I had thought about giving this a DUD, but I couldn't be that harsh given the circumstances. Also, Marufuji did try his best out there, bless him. But the fact is Ibushi needs some time away from the ring to heal. I mean, this could be the end of his illustrious in-ring career, which is beyond heartbreaking, and he's looked a shadow of his former self since he returned to wrestling last Spring, but he wasn't even the same person out there on this show.

All in all, this was a great supershow from NOAH, marred slightly by a catastrophically bad main event, for obvious reasons. But I recommend everyone check it out up the fab Kenoh/Soya match, and just pretend the Ibushi/Maru match never happened.

NDT