Armand lived in Venice during the absolute sluttiest period for mens’ clothes and I gotta talk about it.
Anne constantly used Botticelli as a reference for clothes (who was at his peak in the 1470s/1480s) but Armand was in Florence when Savonarola died, which puts him in Venice the late 1490′s. Fashion was moving fast, there was a big moral panic over society falling apart and becoming too secular, and in Venice it was time to let your inner ho out.
The look: Short. Tight. Made of as many expensive scraps as possible.
Let’s get into it.
The words used to describe clothes in TVA have zero basis in reality but were probably chosen because the average reader can picture a tunic easier than they can suss out what a cioppa was. So for quick reference:
Shift: a shirt (made out of linen, unless you want Armand to be the stinkiest boy in Italy. Shirts needed to be white, which meant they were bleached with piss, and ammonia eats away silk. So he could not have worn a silk shirt unless it was never going to be washed and he was happy to run around with pit stains, which would have been horrible). Considered an underwear layer.
Doublet: the renaissance equivalent of your shirt. Wool or silk, either is fine.
Cioppa: a pleated ‘tunic’ worn over your doublet, always sleeveless. Wool or silk.
Gamurra: your coat. Wool or silk.
Hose: pants, always made of wool flannel
So most folks reading probably picture Armand in something like this, ala Botticelli’s time:
Long cioppa, down mid thigh or to the knee, puffy sleeved doublet, not too risque. But this is like 25 years out of date by Armand’s time, and when he goes shopping it’s with a bunch of teenage boys with Daddy’s credit card. Marius, with his ever present Botticelli hard on, might have had them wear this stuff sometimes but this is not what a fashionable boy at the time would go out and buy himself.
Now the dude on the right here:
This is the look.
Doublet? Tight
Cioppa? Short
Ass? Out.
The entire point of the style was to show off your snatched waist and manly thighs and boy did the Venetians do just that.
Also doublets by this period were basically scraps of fabric tied together to show as much shirt as possible. Which was scandalous because your shirt is your underwear, so running around like this was the renaissance equivalent of wearing a sheer shirt with your bright pink bra exposed.
As a little rich boy and Master’s favorite, Armand would have been able to afford the finest linen, so sheer it would have been nearly see-through. Which makes a helluva statement when your doublet was split down the front like this:
His hose would be bias cut wool flannel for maximum stretch and maximum ass sculpting. Until the later 15th century hose were just thigh high stockings, and your doublet had to be long enough to cover your underwear. Now that doublets were being worn cut off at the waist hose had to be joined like modern pants. But how did you keep your junk safely in the trunk?
Enter the pre-cursor to the codpiece, which I mentally refer to as The Dick Flap:
This was a little triangle of fabric, shaped to hold your goods. It tied to the waist at each upper corner. Hose were so tight you couldn’t wear underwear (!) so you just had to tie your flap tight and go about your day. Like the modern zipper, it made for easy access (do with that info what you will)
This was the first time in European history that men just ran around with their full crotch emphasized and on display, so having your doublet so short it just all hangs out was both sexy and shocking to people.
But how did these pants stay up, you wonder?
Your pants would be tied to the hem of your doublet. Which meant that every day, Armand had to have someone lace him into his super tight clothes. I personally headcanon that he and Riccardo helped each other get dressed every day while he was mortal but you can feel your own fantasy on that one.
Another fun trend during the period was having your family emblem or a symbol of your trade embroidered on the sleeve of your gamurra:
Which Marius would have taken full advantage of, and put his fleur de lis in pure gold thread on every gamurra Armand had.
Here’s some more fashion fit pics just for fun:
Fleur de lis branding on the gamurra and the hose? Marius would have been into it.
The tied on sleeves! The shift pulled out of every seam! The renaissance man ass everywhere!
A plump and juicy young man indeed.
Anyways I hope this was useful or inspirational, or at least makes your next reread of the Vampire Armand more fun. Because the clothing descriptions in there don’t even begin to touch the painted on fashion fantasy that was going on in 1490s Venice.
(also if anyone really, really wants to see details on what Armand would have seen when he put on his clothes, I’m making a 1490s fit with all historically correct methods right now and I can post some of that if there’s interest)
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there’s a moment, in cold war, between clara and the doctor where she’s just spoke to skaldak on her own and she asks the doctor, “how did i do? was i alright?” and the doctor tells her, “this wasn’t a test, clara”
and it just made me think—i wonder if the doctor hears clara say this to him, hears that she wants his approval, even though her life was just in danger. and i wonder if he thinks back, all those years ago, to venice. when he and rory weren’t really friends yet, when rory tells the doctor, “you know what’s dangerous about you? it’s not that you make people take risks—it’s that you make them what to impress you. you make it so they don’t want to let you down. you have no idea how dangerous you make people to themselves when you’re around.”
i wonder if that moment flashes through his mind, and i wonder if he realizes how very right rory was. i wonder if it frustrates him. i wonder if it scares him. especially with clara. because to him, clara is the girl that dies for him. every time he’s met her thus far, she’s ended up dead. forget being scared.
i bet it terrifies him.
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Famed Cicero Moraes has brought an Italian vampire back to life thanks to the science of facial reconstruction. This achievement was made possible thanks to the excavation of a mass grave in Venice, in which archaeologists discovered the remains of a 16th-century woman buried with a brick lodged in her mouth.
As forensic anthropologists delved into the evidence, tales of vampire lore emerged, shedding light on the cultural backdrop of the era. From the ritualistic brick placement to the symbolic significance of shroud eaters, each detail uncovers layers of superstition and hysteria that gripped medieval Europe.
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