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Pink Deviled Eggs
by Ruth Reichl
They’re so beautiful, and you get a lot of bang for very few bucks.
(Incidentally, I usually use Sriracha in the recipe, but like many people, I am suffering from Sriracha deprivation due to the shortage of Huy Tung Sriracha, which is currently selling for a staggery $75 on Amazon. According to the "Los Angeles Times," the company goes through 50,000 tons of Mexican chiles a year, and the drought south of the border has created a chile shortage. I haven’t found another brand I like, so I used Tabasco in its place.)
1 dozen hard-boiled eggs
1 jar pickled beets
Tabasco
mustard
mayonnaise
salt and pepper
Once your eggs are cooked and peeled, put the whole eggs into a bowl with the juice from a can of pickled beets; add a bit of water if the eggs aren’t completely covered.
Before long the eggs will begin to turn a vibrant shade of pink. Leave them in the refrigerator overnight, and the whites will be the most beautiful color, a dazzling contrast to the marigold color of the yolks. (Leave them in the beet juice for more than 18 hours, however, and the yolks will turn pink as well.)
Cut the eggs in half lengthwise, then slice a bit off the bottom of the white of each half so they won’t wobble on the plate. It makes them considerably easier to fill. Remove the yolks and mash with mayonnaise, a bit of mustard, and salt and pepper. Add a splash of Tabasco for heat.
If you want truly etherial tenderness, whip the filling in a food processor; it will make it smoother. Then pile the deviled yolks back into the pink shells. (A pastry tube makes this easier.)
At the end, just for color, top each one with a little leaf of herb.
A small digression on the science of hardboiled eggs….
When eggs are new, the membrane beneath the shell sticks tightly to its shell, making peeling them a serious challenge. As eggs age, the protective coating on the shell becomes porous and begins to absorb air making the whites less acetic. (This is why the whites of freshly laid eggs are cloudy; as they absorb air they lose some of the carbon dioxide in the albumen, the ph rises, and the whites become clearer.)
But while the egg whites are losing their acidity, they are also getting thinner, meaning that the yolk is moving farther from the center. So if you’re intent on perfect deviled eggs, begin with organic, new-laid eggs but put them in the refrigerator for a week and store them on their sides.
When you’re ready to hard-boil them, bring the eggs to room temperature (which will keep them from cracking). Put your eggs in a pot that will hold them in a single layer, so that they cook evenly. Cover them with cold water and raise it quickly just to a boil. Cover the pot, turn off the heat and let the eggs sit for 12 minutes.
Chill the eggs, immediately, in a bowl of ice water. This will prevent the dread green circle around the outside of the yolk. (That occurs because the iron in the yolk reacts with the sulfur in the white when the temperature of the egg reaches 158° F. Although perfectly harmless, it lends your deviled eggs a slightly ghoulish air. )
If you don't want to wait a week, steam your eggs. It's easy. Put them in a steamer (or a colander over a big pot), cover them and steam for twenty minutes. Plunk them into an ice water bath until they’re cool enough to handle. Roll on the counter. The shells of even new-laid eggs will peel right off.
#hard boiled eggs#pink food#tabasco sauce#how to boil eggs#easter food#mothers day food#valentines day food#party food#pickled beets#ruth reichl#celebrity recipe
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JULIA:
Unlikely show host
Made US love French cooking
Living a good life
#Julia#random richards#poem#haiku#poetry#haiku poem#daily haiku#haiku poetry#haiku form#documentary#haiku a day#haiku on tumblr#julia child#the French chef#mastering the art of French cooking#Julie cohen#Betsy west#Jose andres#Antoinette Brownell#Ruth reichl#Cecile Richards#Marcus Samuelson
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#vintage menus#menus#ruth reichl#la briffe#vintage#louis sherry#resources#food#food resource#food gift ideas
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Odes for Foodies
When I found an easy recipe for angel food cake, I decided it was time to liberate the dozen eggs sitting in my crisper. The cake was wonderful with seasonal fresh strawberries. The only drawback was cleaning the ungreased footed bundt pan. What a horror.
Finding Olivia Ford’s “Mrs. Quinn’s Rise to Fame” seemed timely, and reading through the table of contents from Tea Loaf to Treacle Tart had…
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Ruth Reichl once wrote, “The best pizza in the world, as everybody knows, no longer exists. It is the pizza of your childhood.”
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While at the Monell Chemical Senses Center I met Marcia Pelchat. She is a sensory psychologist who studies the science of flavor and food preference and often demonstrates the relationship between taste and smell with a jelly bean. Close your eyes and pick a jelly bean out of a bowl. Do it blindly, so you won't know the flavor before you put it on your tongue. Pinch your nose shut, so you can only breathe out of your mouth, pop the bean in, and begin to chew. What can you taste? Can you tell what kind of jelly bean you're eating? Most report nothing but a bland sweet. Now, let go of your nose and breathe through your nostrils again. Now there's something. That's how smell makes a difference in flavor. Pelchat conducted this experiment with Ruth Reichl, editor of the now-defunct Gourmet magazine, and Daniel Boulud, a well-lauded French chef in New York City, during an interview on WNYC radio in 2005. Her subjects wore clips over their noses as they put the unidentified flavors of jelly bean in their mouths. They chewed silently until, suddenly, they were instructed to remove the clips.
“Oh my God, amazing,” said Reichl in a low, distinctive voice. “It went from absolutely nothing to – the minute it came off, it was pure, devastatingly strong banana.”
“Think of fruit,” Reichl said to me. By taste alone, fruit is sweet and sour, she explained, with the exception of bananas, which are solely sweet. “But we can distinguish lots and lots of different fruit flavors. We can distinguish the difference between peach and mango, apple and grape. Even more: we can distinguish between beef and lamb, the difference between a corn tortilla and a wheat tortilla. There are textural differences. But this is mostly smell.”
— Season to Taste: How I Lost My Sense of Smell and Found My Way (Molly Birnbaum)
#book quotes#molly birnbaum#season to taste: how i lost my sense of smell and found my way#neuroscience#senses#smell#taste#food and drink#fruit#marcia pelchat#ruth reichl#daniel boulud
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“Pull up a chair. Take a taste. Come join us. Life is so endlessly delicious.”
― Ruth Reichl
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thank you so much for tagging me or mentioning me @crossmydna @heymacy @gallawitchxx @blue-disco-lights @wehangout @deedala @mybrainismelted and @mmmichyyy! Whew!
I'm late to the game (hello Thursday) but in person life is really chaotic and sad right now so I'm glad to play a game with friends!
name: Karen
age: Layla-adjacent
your time zone: EST
what do you do for work? babysitter
do you have any pets? an 11 year old tortoiseshell cat named Penny and a 2 year old pitbull mix named Alvin
what first drew you to this fandom? I saw the van kiss on YouTube and then watched the first 3 seasons via buying them on amazon. I started watching live from season 4 and found Tumblr pretty quickly. I lurked and then got involved, then left for years, then came back more recently.
are you a morning person or a night owl? morning I guess?
what are your hobbies? writing, dancing, cooking, baking
how tall are you? aaaaalmost 5'10
if you could live anywhere in the world, where would you live? Norway I think
favorite color? yellow
favorite book? oh gosh. the first that comes to mind is Tender at the Bone by Ruth Reichl, which I'm reading right now and LOVE
favorite movie? Mary Poppins
favorite fic? Oh god so many! How to choose? I will pass out if I type them all, but I want to especially shout out my love @captainjowl
favorite musical artist: Low for a band and Julien Baker for solo. Is that cheating?
what is your average screen time so far this week? oh man I don't wanna know.
what's the first app you open in the morning? Email
how long have you been on tumblr? maybe like 2014?
finally (and i know this one is hard) tell me a fun fact about yourself:
I once had a catastrophic injury that left my left leg very weak and very damaged. They didn't think I would be able to walk again on that leg. I started physical therapy to prepare for more surgery, but I started being able to bear weight on the leg, then I learned how to walk (with an AFO and walker assistance, then a cane, then nothing- that took a couple years). But STILL. The doctors were absolutely shocked. Every time I hate my body I remind myself of this fact. I'm a medical marvel!
No tags since y'all have done this and I'm late and tired.
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The Great American Kitchen Myth
By Ruth Reichl
At the moment I’m standing in the gorgeous kitchen of the airb&b I’ve rented for a few weeks in Los Angeles. It has every imaginable bell and whistle: dark marble counters, computer-equipped stove, European dishwasher, a cool sculptural vent. There’s a huge refrigerator with freezer drawers that is so tastefully camouflaged by smooth wooden panels you’d never know it was there. Every nook and cranny of this kitchen has been carefully designed so that even the usually inaccessible corner spaces have pivoting shelves to hold the many machines -food processors, spice grinders, mixers – hidden beneath the counters. On top of that, it has a view of an immaculately groomed garden much loved by a neighboring cat who resembles a tiny tiger.
There is not one thing wrong with this kitchen…except for the fact that I hate it.
Despite its glamorous efficiency, this kitchen and I have yet to produce a delicious meal. I am not surprised: all the money that’s been poured into this room have made it cold, clinical and unwelcoming. “Go away!” it seems to shout each time I walk in the door.
It is living proof that the Great American Kitchen Myth is utter nonsense. You know, that one that says it’s impossible to produce a decent meal unless you have a battery of arcane appliances.New and supposedly necessary gadgets are constantly entering our lives. Last year it was a sous-vide machine, a rice cooker or an induction cooktop. This year it’s the Instapot. Next year it will probably be the anti-griddle (such an object really does exist; it is to cold what ordinary griddles are to heat). The people who produce these things want you to covet computerized refrigerators that warn you when you’re about to run out of milk, intelligent ovens that tell you when the roast is done, and countertop cookers eager to produce an entire meal at the flick of a button.
I’ve been breathlessly introduced to each of these items. But I don’t want them. I know that in real life I need none of these things. The truth is that, given a few excellent ingredients, a reliable source of heat, a sharp knife and a couple of pots anyone can produce a great meal. What she can’t do is cook that great meal in a kitchen that makes her (or him) miserable.
The first kitchen I could truly call my own occupied the corner of a bare bones loft on New York’s then ungentrified and fairly scary lower east side. We built our counters by scavenging wooden pallets that had been discarded by our industrial neighbors (back then downtown New York was still filled with factories). Our stove was a cranky old creature someone had discarded and left on the street. There was, of course, no dishwasher, which has left me with a lifelong appreciation for washing dishes. (I find creating order out of chaos extremely fulfilling.) And back then we were so poor that when I needed a rolling pin it made more sense to buy a bottle of cheap wine and use that to roll out my pastry. (The wine was terrible, but it went into a terrific stew.) And I’m convinced that I invented the microplane: when I needed to grate Parmesan I rifled through my husband’s tool box and borrowed his rasp.
That kitchen may have been shabby and small, but it was always filled with music and I danced joyfully around as I taught myself to make good meals out of cheap cuts, bake bread (in discarded ceramic flower pots), and feed the hungry friends who showed up whenever mealtime rolled around. I was so happy in that kitchen that I ended up writing a cookbook. (If you can find a copy of MMMMM: A Feastiary you will discover that it contains not a single recipe requiring anything as arcane as a food processor or stand mixer.)
I moved on to a communal house in Berkeley California where we rarely sat down to dinner with fewer than a dozen people. We still had no dishwasher and not a single fancy food machine, but that kitchen was always filled with people talking, chopping, drinking wine, rolling out pasta on an old-fashioned chittara, and stretching a single chicken to feed a crowd. I don’t think I’ve ever served better meals than during the ten years I lived in that house.
My next kitchen was in Los Angeles, in an old house with a scarred linoleum floor and a single electrical outlet. Once again, no dishwasher. But it was an airy space with a view of distant snow-capped hills and bougainvillea that came twining through the window. Despite the antique stove and scarce electricity I managed to cook Thanksgiving dinner for thirty people every year, and no one ever complained about the food.
For most of human history, feeding your family was backbreaking work. You had to raise the animals, tend the garden, butcher the meat. You had to fetch water, light fires and preserve enough of summer’s bounty to see your family through the winter.
But modern life has changed all that. Indoor plumbing, refrigeration and supermarkets (not to mention on-line shopping) have turned cooking into something that is no longer a chore. Today cooking can be – should be - pure pleasure. So here’s my advice: forget about all the appliances you think you need. Just turn your kitchen into a space you love; everything else will follow.
I can’t tell you what your dream kitchen should be: we all cook so differently that one kitchen couldn’t possibly please everyone. But I can tell you what makes me happy.
I prefer small kitchens. Standing in the middle of mine I can stretch out my arms and touch the sink on one side and the stove on the other. About that stove….. I invested in a very fancy one and I’m sorry I did. My previous stove was the cheapest 6-burner model on the market and I loved it. Unlike the behemoth I now possess, it shot up to temperature in a few minutes, while my top-of-the-line splurge takes almost half an hour to reach 450 degrees.
I like to bake pies (yes, I now own a rolling pin), so I covered my counters with a stone called serpentine which allows me to roll out dough anywhere I want. This material is not only beautiful, but so sturdy I can plop the hottest pots on top without giving it a thought.
I do have a dishwasher, but I kind of wish I didn’t; it takes up too much room, and if I had it to do over I’d put a central trash bin where the dishwasher now lives. It would be a major improvement.
I’m lucky: at five feet six inches I’m the average height for an American woman, and most standard kitchens are designed for me. But if you’re not, fix it; chopping at the wrong height is exhausting. If you’re short, put in layers of rubber mats; if you’re tall, add chopping blocks so you don’t have to bend over each time you pick up a knife. This is a small thing: it is also everything.
Visuals are equally important. Some people like their kitchens spare. I don’t. I prefer color and chaos, and I’ve covered my counters with bowls of fruits and jars of spices. I have a few antique appliances too; my favorite is an old juicer that reminds me of a friendly elephant. It cost $2 in a junk shop, but it makes me laugh every time I walk into the room.
My kitchen is so cheerful that I never want to leave. I have air and light and music. And although it’s small there’s plenty of room for any friend who wants to lend a hand. And that happens fairly often, because this room is an invitation to cook. The cats like it too, and they come in purring loudly as they twine around our ankles. But even when the room is empty, I am never lonely in the kitchen. When I stand at the stove the ghosts of all the women who taught me to cook are there too, cheering me on.
Most of all, each time I caramelize an onion in butter, or the kitchen fills with the fine yeasty scent of bread rising in the oven, I’m reminded of all the little things that make life worth living. Because that’s the real secret of a great kitchen: one you love is genuinely life changing. It not only makes you a better cook, it also makes you a happier person.
(Curious about my current kitchen? You can see it here.)
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We hosted a program about Carole King last night at the library, and my coworker who ran it was like, Did you know she was jewish and changed her last name to King from Klein?
and I'm like, BABE I'M A FRIZZY HAIRED JEWESS, OF COURSE I KNEW. Did you know she picked King from the phone book? Did you know she took a trip to Israel in her 20s and Ruth Reichl was randomly assigned to be her roommate? Did you know she added the e? Did you know that she does not have perfect pitch (like charlie puth) but she does have RELATIVE perfect pitch (she needs to be given the first note)? Did you know she was a teenage mother when she was stopped on the street and asked to write a song for Aretha Franklin? Did you know that there is a chord people call "the carole king chord" bc it's such a signature in her music? Did you know that she's been in a fight over land access on her Montana farm for like 15 years? Did you know she basically abandoned two of her children to run away with an extremely sketchy man?
There is NOTHING I don't know about my girl Carole. PUHLEASE.
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Ruth Reichl’s Menu Collection
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BEAS my LOVE it's nice ask week time! hello hello <3
my ask for everyone is...what is a book you are looking forward to reading and a movie you are excited to watch in 2024? :) xoxo roop
HI ROOP MY LOVE
So my answer is was and will be The Pairing by Casey McQuiston, though I was lucky enough to get my hands on an ARC so I am sitting like a fat happy cat right now for that one. I will say though that I am really looking forward to reading a number of Chef Memoirs and Cooking books this year.
The not so short TBR list of my cooking books to read this year
Cooking in General
Salt Fat Acid Heat by Samin Nosrat
The Joy of Cooking by Irma Rombauer
How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman
Tasting History by Max Miller
The Science of Cooking by Dr. Stuart Farrimond
The Flavor Bible by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page
Chef Memoirs
Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain
Climbing the Mango Trees by Madhur Jaffrey
Toast Nigel Slater
Notes From a Young Black Chef by Kwame Onwuachi
Save Me the Plums by Ruth Reichl
Yes Chef by Marcus Samuelsson
Heat by Bil Buford
Eat a Peach by David Chang (THE ONE THAT IS COMING OUT THIS YEAR ON THE LIST)
as for movies...
DUNE 2 MY BELOVED
Spiderman beyond the spiderverse
I am sure there will be more but those two are at the top of my list right now
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book asks 4 & 10!
4. Did you discover any new authors that you love this year?
i DID!!! much like you and a few others i discovered lauren james who absolutely rocks but i also got a rec from a family friend to check out ruth reichl's autobio stuff and LOVED it. also julia bartz who only has one book out rn and yuji kaku (mangaka of hell's paradise/ayashimon)!!
10. What was your favorite new release of the year?
hmmmMM hard question, i really liked a lot of new releases this year. i think i will give a shoutout to aforementioned julia bartz book the writing retreat which was an absolutely batshit beach read, but my runner ups would def be how to sell a haunted house, hell bent, and don't fear the reaper
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