#oqaatsut | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

the-arctic-aurality · 5 years

Text

Quiet life - 10/07-19

The truth is that I am back in Oslo with internet connection for more than 30 minutes, but let us pretend I am still in Oqaatsut with a few more updates.

It has been a couple of calm days in Oqaatsut, a small coastal village with 27 inhabitants. I have rented a house and it feels like I am beginning to live like a true Greenlander. The biggest change is that there is no water or pipe systems in the houses here, which means water becomes a bigger part of your daily routine. In my daily life back home, I do not even think about it - it is just there. Here, you have to pick up the water you need from a water house which uses a reverse osmosis system - removes the salt from the ocean water and makes it drinkable. Sounds like magic to me.

When you need hot water to wash up or do the dishes, you boil it, and bring the used water outside again. In addition, obviously, there is no shower or water closet facilities - just a black plastic bag.

Besides the change in the daily routines, I have kept on with my recordings. The first day there was a lot of wind which made the whole house howl and scream in the most incredible ways. The wind and the dogs, which lived just outside my house, sang harmonies together that day. It was quite soothing to listen to, and I think I fell asleep twice while recording.

When the wind had settled the next day, I brought my hydrophones and a couple of Lom Usi Pro mics to do some underwater recordings. I have borrowed the Usi’s from my kind friend and colleague Gisle Tveito - to experiment with. I have wrapped them in lube free condoms and tape and they work well to a certain point.

The sound of them are closer to the human ear than the hydrophones, but I cannot get them further down than the length of the condoms. Even that was not enough this time. I thought it all went well, the recordings sounded good and I got home, unwrapped them and tested them to be sure. It turned out that one of them had a much lower signal than the other, and also had a noise to it(sorry, Gisle). I guess that is what happens when you experiment, but I will definitely need more than condoms next time.

Later in the evening, I had to get out in a boat somehow, not with the Usis, may they rest in peace, but with the Aquarians. I saw a couple who arrived in a boat and paddled their way to land in a small rubber boat. Perfect for me, I thought, and I asked them if I could borrow or rent it. They said they did not need it for the rest of the evening and kindly lent it to me. People are very helpful here.

The sun shone on the dead calm surface, and I broke it when I gently paddled my way out. I softly sank the hydrophones down and put on my headset. The contrast was striking. Underneath there was so noisy compared to what I saw and heard above the surface; a lot of bubbling, bangs from the icebergs echoing in the mountains around and once in a while a boat drove past. I guess the life down there never stands still.

#aquarian #hydrophones #usi pro #oqaatsut #wind #underwater

1 note · View note

b-explorer-blog · 6 years

Photo

Oqaatsut. village of 25 inhabitans, including 5 childen. 69°20'40N 51°00'10" W. slowly we fade.

#greenland #visitgreenland #oqaatsut #arcticnatureguide #arcticguide #guide

2 notes · View notes

itsmoonpeaches · 3 years

Note

Happy FFWF! What is your favorite trope and have you used it in a fic? If so, share your favorite quote or passage from that fic! If not, do you have any plans to use the trope in the future? Please tell us about it!

Hey happy (late) FFWF!

I love me some friends to lovers. That’s a fantastic trope! Yes, I have used it at least twice in fic. Once in The Soul-Farer and once in Balance.

I’ll probably use it again in the future, but I have no current plans for a story with it.

I’ll share a short passage from The Soul-Farer, though I should say that The Soul-Farer, while Kataang, isn’t as involved in romance as Balance.

“Oh, thank you, thank you!” he exclaimed. He helped her stand. Then he embraced her as well. “You’re a healer! You’re amazing!”

Not knowing what else to do, Katara put her arms around him too and patted him on the back. She laughed nervously and said, “I didn’t know I’m a healer.”

The boy looked at her just before pulling away, grinning. “I’m glad you figured it out!” he laughed. He paused to bow his head slightly and introduced himself. “I’m Aang. I’m from the Southern Air Temple.”

She was so shocked, that the words that rushed from her mouth were nothing short of dumbfounded. “You’re an airbender!” she gasped.

“Sure am!” he said with the brightest smile. “And you’re a waterbender!”

Katara caught the teasing glint in his eye and felt the flush as it rose to her cheeks. She cleared her throat and added, “I’m Katara from Oqaatsut of the Southern Water Tribe.”

#ffwf #prosperas #aang #kataang #kataangtag #katara #ask

6 notes · View notes

qaqasahara · 4 years

Text

Immernoch nachträgliche Reisereportage aus Ilulissat - und vielleicht als Inspiration, falls jemand mal das Glück hat, hierher zu kommen!

Von Oqaatsut nach Ilulssat sind es gute 20 km, eine gute Tageswanderung. Wandern in Grönland ist meist der Nase nach wenn man sich auskennt und nicht weit will, ansonsten mit Karte und Kompass. Ilulissat ist das touristischste, was es hier gibt, Routen sind mit Farbe markiert, was nicht bedeutet, dass da unbedingt ein Pfad ist.

Oqaatsut, oder Rodebay, wie es holländische Walfänger getauft haben, ist eine kleine Siedlung mit ungefähr 40 Bewohnern. Es gibt eine Schule/Kirche, einen Pilersuisoq, ein lokales Geschäft, das so ungefähr alles hat, was man so braucht, ein Restaurant, ein Hotel und eine Jugendherberge. Alles klein natürlich aber trotzdem relativ viel für so einen kleinen Ort. Touristisch wie gesagt.

Wir waren die einzigen Gäste, das Restaurant war schon in der Winterpause, in der Jugendherberge war die Heizung aus, also Upgrade ins Hotel. Unser Gastgeber war selbst gar nicht da, aber abschließen tut ja eh keiner und Frühstück kann man auch selbst machen. Nachts war es nicht nur ruhig, sondern auch dunkel, perfekt für Polarlichter - so schön! Die tanzenden Lichterstreifen kann man ewig angucken, ohne dass es langweilig wird. Und ich kann gut verstehen, dass man das früher als etwas mystisches, übernatürliches gehalten hat.

Überhaupt, wenn man sich vorstellt, wie die Menschen in Zelten und Hütten oder in Kajaks den Naturgewalten ausgesetzt waren, ist es irgendwie klar, dass an übermächtige Geister und Kräfte geglaubt wurde. Die alten Riten hatten meist das Ziel, diese zu besänftigen oder bei Laune zu halten, damit Nahrung, Gesundheit, Nachfahren und so weiter gesichert sind.

1 note · View note

viansharif · 5 years

Photo

In Oqaatsut. Population is 40 humans and 100 huskies. Cold or very cold every day.

#greenland #north

9 notes · View notes

rtw-900d · 5 years

Text

冰山的故鄉 - Ilulissat

冰山，是我對格陵蘭的想像。

在來到格陵蘭之前，我們曾在南美大陸的巴塔哥尼亞已經看過所謂的『冰山』與『冰河』，然而那與我對格陵蘭的想像 - 放眼望去盡是，有著程度上的差異。而我這個想像，一直到了 Ilulissat（伊魯利薩特），才算是真正了解怎樣才配得上『冰山的故鄉』這個稱號。

因為行程安排，我們這一趟一共來了 Ilulissat 三次。第一次僅在機場轉機去 Qaanaaq（卡納克）。第二次則是從 Qaanaaq 回來，在 Ilulissat 待了兩天。第三次則是從 Qeqertarsuaq（凱凱塔蘇瓦克）回來，又待了兩晚、等候回丹麥哥本哈根的飛機。

Ilulissat（伊魯利薩特）

Ilulissat 位於格陵蘭西側、北極圈以北 350 公里，是次於首都 Nuuk 與 Sisimiut 的第三大城，人口約 4,900 人。然而這裡卻是格陵蘭最熱門的旅遊城市。基本上是不太可能有人來到格陵蘭旅遊、卻沒造訪 Ilulissat。

Ilulissat 這個城市名呢，其實在格陵蘭語中就是『冰山』的意思，故也不難理解這城市被暱稱為『冰山的故鄉』以及人們千里迢迢來到這裡的原因了吧？

格陵蘭式的公寓，七彩的外牆依然是必須要的。

Ilulissat 的餐廳之一

一台破冰郵輪停靠在 Ilulissat。稍後我們在健行步道遇到部分的遊客並因而得知他們這樣一趟航行的花費。

錫安教堂（Zion’s Church）

我們租的公寓雖然離市中心有點距離，但因為在坡上所以有著超好的全景。要不是九月的 Ilulissat 已經天寒地凍、讓人無法在室外久待，要不然在陽台上曬太陽喝著茶看大冰山飄來浮去也是挺愜意的。

Ilulissat 的九月雪

Ilulissat 的地圖

Ilulissat 必做的 10 件事

在公寓的一角發現到這張『Ilulissat 必做的 10 件事』：

Ilulissat Icefjord（伊魯利薩特冰峽灣）

Taste Greenland halibut（品嚐格陵蘭比目魚）

Kayak among icebergs（划獨木舟穿梭於冰山之間）

Visit Ilulissat Museum, also Knud Rasmussen’s childhood house（參觀格陵蘭探險家 Knud Rasmussen 的老家，今伊魯利薩特博物館）

Check out Seqinniarfik, where locals greet the sun after the long dark winter（拜訪 Seqinniarfik，因為這是每年一月 13 號下午 1 點左右，居民於數月的永夜之後，再次聚集慶祝重見光明之地）

Spot a humpback whale（尋找座頭鯨的蹤影）

Learn to pronounce commonly used Greenlandic words（學習幾句常用的格陵蘭語）

Meet a local musher and his/her dog team（與本地獵人與其狗助手們面對面）

Visit Oqaatsut and discover authentic Greenlandic lifestyle（拜訪 Oqaatsut 並從中了解格陵蘭的傳統生活方式）

Sunbath in the midnight sun（在午夜時分做日光浴）

幾個常用的格陵蘭語單字

Aluu（哈囉）以及 Qujanaq（謝謝）基本上是我們每天都會用到的兩個常用單字，非常有用。

Ilulissat Icefjord（伊魯利薩特冰峽灣）

伊魯利薩特冰峽灣位於在 Ilulissat 南側、於 2004 年被 UNESCO 列為世界遺產，同時也是格陵蘭的第一個世界遺產。這個冰峽灣之所以出名，是因為其源頭的雅各布港冰河（Jakobshavn Isbræ Glacier）、每日向前推進 20 - 22 公尺、也是全北半球冰山產量第一的冰河，讓整個伊魯利薩特冰峽灣水面上總是擠滿大大小小的冰山。想要一場『放眼望去盡是冰山』的視覺饗宴嗎？那麼一趟伊魯利薩特冰峽灣健行就對了。

伊魯利薩特冰峽灣健行步道有四條，黃、紅、藍以及世界遺產步道：

世界遺產步道（World Heritage Route）- 最受歡迎也最容易完成的步道，起點與終點分別是老直升機場（Old Heliport）與 Sermermiut 軌道橋（Sermermiut track bridge）。全長鋪設木頭棧道、約 1.3 公里。

黃色步道 - 從電力發電廠（Power Plant）開始，結束於老直升機場（Old Heliport）。全長約 2.7 公里，單程約需 2 小時。

紅色步道 - 全長僅 1 公里的短步道，起點與終點分別為老直升機場（Old Heliport）與 Holms Bakke。

藍色步道 - 6.9 公里長，起點為採石場（Quarry），終點則為老直升機場（Old Heliport），一般來說單程需要 4 - 5 小時。藍色步道的最後一段與世界遺產步道重疊。

九月當時的 Ilulissat 已是寒風刺骨，但我們依然挺著完成三條：黃、紅與世界遺產步道。基本上難度都不高，地面上都有清楚標示方向（例如底下照片中的藍色石頭標示出藍色步道），均可以在無需嚮導的情況之下獨自完成。

世界遺產步道全程鋪設木頭棧道，是最輕鬆簡單但又可以見到冰峽灣奇景的好選擇。

健行途中遇到從郵輪下來的團客，多是退休年紀了。與其中一位來自澳洲的爺爺閒聊後，出於好奇於是斗膽問了問這樣一趟西北航道（Northwest Passage）航行是要花費多少？澳洲爺爺說『你們一定不相信我說的』『但是我付了 3 萬澳幣』。

三萬澳幣約合 66 萬新台幣，都��夠我們環球旅行一年半了，那一瞬間突然覺得我們在格陵蘭的支出根本小意思。

關於黃色健行步道，其實原本沒打算要走的，但因為在遊客中心聽說在這個步道上、有很大的機會可以從岸邊親眼目睹座頭鯨，所以立馬改變心意、去試試我們的運氣。

遊客中心的年輕服務小姐講的是真的，我們還真的在黃色步道上親眼目睹數頭座頭鯨噴氣、潛水與悠遊於水面上！

Ilulissat 的夏季活動選項之一有 4 小時的出海賞鯨之旅，2018 年 9 月的價格為 1,195 丹麥克朗，約合新台幣 5,800 元，提供了更近距離觀看鯨魚的機會，但我們其實對於站在岸邊、距離稍遠但是完全免費，已經非常滿意。

伊魯利薩特冰峽灣絕對列在人在旅途的『此生必訪』清單之上

極光

在遊客中心時，我們也看到另一項冬季才有的活動（包含九月）- 2 小時的極光團，每天晚上 10 點出團，費用 250 丹麥克朗，約合新台幣 1215 元。

這表示什麼？這表示著我們在 Qaanaaq 沒追到的極光，在 Ilulissat 終於有機會了，而且我們租的公寓視野超好，我們就不打算參加極光團，而是坐在暖暖的屋裏等極光就好！

住宿

我們在網路上發現 Ane 的公寓，距離市區雖遠（步行 20 分鐘，計程車約 50 丹麥克朗），但價格平易近人許多（約 3,300 新台幣/每晚），且因為在一個小坡上，故視野超好。也因為如此，我們才覺得坐在屋裡邊喝茶邊等極光就好，何必出門給冷風吹。

結果，又被大自然給打槍。每天晚上都等，還是沒看到。前兩個晚上我猜真的是運氣不好還是怎樣，萬里無雲但啥都沒有。後兩個晚上因為下雪、雲層超厚，這就真的沒轍了。當時也只能把唯一希望放在下一站 Qeqertarsuaq（凱凱塔蘇瓦克）了。

Ilulissat 雖然才幾千人，但這規模在格陵蘭已經是不得了的大城市了，且因為觀光客多，故這裡的一切都比我們去到其他格陵蘭城市都還完整、齊全，重點是 - 有沖水馬桶！但即使如此，網路依然是高不可攀的玩意，放棄在格陵蘭上網的想法吧。

交通

公共運輸與計程車 Taxi

我們在 Ilulissat 有看到過公車站牌，但實際上沒有公車，不知為何。

計程車則是當行李多時的好朋友，例如要去機場或是碼頭等距離稍遠的地方。在 Ilulissat 使用計程車唯一的麻煩是，計程車不是在路上攔就有的，得打電話叫。所以沒有本地號碼的我們，都是厚著臉皮請人代撥。

Ilulissat 的計程車都是照錶收費的，從市中心到機場約 55 丹麥克朗，約合新台幣 267 元。

Ilulissat 的限速牌，是給拉雪撬的人看得。我也很好奇冬天有沒有狗拉雪撬計程車呢？

Disco Line 迪斯科灣渡輪

在 Ilulissat 待了兩天之後，我們便搭著渡輪越過迪斯科灣，來到迪斯科島上的小聚落 Qeqertarsuaq（凱凱塔蘇瓦克）。

夏季時候，當乘客遊客較多時，Disco Line 這家渡輪公司有提供聚落之間點對點的直航服務，例如 Ilulissat 與 Qeqertarsuaq 在七八月間有直航。而我們搭乘時已是九月份，已進入旅遊淡季，所以該航線改成沿途停靠 Ilulissat - Aasiaat - Kitsissuarsuit - Qeqertarsuaq 的路線。

這一段繞路沿途停靠的航線約需 7.5 小時。渡輪上有提供付費的餐飲服務，例如 10 丹麥克朗的茶跟咖啡、25 丹麥克朗的汽水飲料、15 丹麥克朗的巧克力條、30 丹麥克朗的 pizza 以及 25 丹麥克朗的杯麵。我們則是事先準備好自己的早午餐零食等。

根據線上地圖，Ilulissat 似乎只有一個碼頭，但還好我們謹慎地事先拜訪了渡輪公司 Disco Line 在市中心的辦公室，才知道原來渡輪停靠的是另一個在 Amuttivimmut Aqq 路上的碼頭，見碼頭位置地圖。

這一趟航行也勉強算是達成那十大必做的事之一的『獨木舟穿梭於冰山之間』，只是我們的是『渡輪穿梭於冰山之間』。

youtube

當我們數天後從 Qeqertarsuaq 返回 Ilulissat 後，該渡輪的抵達時間是午夜時分，沒有計程車在碼頭等候。但這對我們而言根本不是問題，請船員們幫個忙撥通電話叫車即可順利搞定。

更多關於我們的格陵蘭故事？

迪斯科島的小漁村 - Qeqertarsuaq

世界最北的人類聚落 - Qaanaaq

冰封的北國 - 格陵蘭

#格陵蘭 #伊魯利薩特 #此生必訪 #北極 #極地

1 note · View note

travellianna · 2 years

Photo

#h8restaurant #oqaatsut #ilulissat #greenland #lunch Most remote restaurant I’ve been to! #smokedlamb #smokedreindeer #smokedmuskox #smokedhalibut #shrimp #prawns #yum #whereintheworldislianna (at Oqaatsut (Rodebay)) https://www.instagram.com/p/CgK529wuxoR/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

#h8restaurant #oqaatsut #ilulissat #greenland #lunch #smokedlamb #smokedreindeer #smokedmuskox #smokedhalibut #shrimp #prawns #yum #whereintheworldislianna

0 notes

tompumpupboats · 4 years

Text

10 Breathtaking Winter Kayaking Locations for Your Bucket List

Kayaking is a great sport, which not only brings you close to the nature, but also helps you keep fit and healthy. Although most people enjoy this water sport during summer, winter kayaking is emerging as a new favorite among those looking for additional adventure. After looking at these beautiful winter kayaking locations, you won't want to put your kayak into storage this coming winter.

Arctics

Paddling next to icebergs can be an everyday activity in The Arctics. Here are some kayaks in Greenland passing an iceberg in the Disko Bay near Oqaatsut. Photo: Mads Pihl

Read the full article

#winterkayaking

0 notes

jesus-sbaptista · 4 years

Photo

Oqaatsut - Résidence d’un mois de création artistique au bord du bateau Atka. 2019

0 notes

agelessphotography · 5 years

Photo

Oqaatsut 5, 07/2003 69° 19’57” N, 51° 00’23” W, Olaf Otto Becker, 2003

#photography #olaf otto becker #2000s #greenland #oqaatsut #german #landscape #color photography #waterscape #2003

32 notes · View notes

the-arctic-aurality · 5 years

Text

Fish for a living - 11/07-19

In a small village you get to meet and know people if you spend some time there. Many tourists drop by one day in Oqaatsut and travel back to Ilulissat the same day, which looks weird when you actually live here. They are not a part of your life, but they just look at it from the outside.

On the dock, I met a fisherman and hunter, Steen, and asked him if I could spend some time with him. He was preparing for long line fishing and baited the hooks with capelin. His father was a fisherman, too, and Steen shot his first seal when he was nine years old and caught his first Beluga whale when he was fourteen. He said he tried to work on land for a while, but it did not work out for him - he belonged to the sea.

Long line fishing takes patience since there are so many hooks to bate, and while I watched, another hunter arrived at the dock by boat. He pointed at the back end of the boat, and to my surprise, I could see a dead seal lying there - I believe it was a ringed seal. He had recently shot it and was about to skin and butcher it.

I gave Steen a break from all my Norwegian-Danish questions, and watched and recorded the sounds of the butchering of the seal. I was fascinated by how fast he did it, but he had probably done it his whole life. He skinned it, and there was literally a bath of blood and fat right in front of me, but all I could think of was to record the sounds the best I could. Suddenly it was all over, and meanwhile a local man had come to buy some of the meat. What was left was a pile of blood and some flies flying over it.

I went back to Steen who was still bating the hooks, but he was soon finished and I joined him when he put out the line.

We had to wait for five hours before we could pick it up again, but I had to come along to see if “we” got any fish, and at 8 p.m. we went out to bring the fish home. In the beginning there was not much to see, and Steen wondered if he was wrong about the currents, but soon enough the big fish was dragged into the boat. There were huge wolffish, Atlantic redfish, cod, halibut and also a bunch of sea rays which were thrown into the sea again. He used a winch to drag them up, pulled out the hooks and threw the fish in either the “dog-bucket” or the “human-bucket”. If the fish were too small, they became dog food, but too small for Steen was big in my eyes.

Four hours later and past midnight, we were finished and got back. I was not aware of the time as the sun here never sets, but I must admit I had begun to feel a bit cold in the Arctic night. To me it looked like a good catch, but to him it was mediocre. He does this for a living and would have wanted more of the most expensive fish: halibut. I asked him if I could buy a small cod from the “dog-bucket” to have for dinner, but that was unacceptable, and he gave me a huge cod from the “human-bucket” for free. Qujanaq, Steen! I had cod for dinner the rest of the stay.

The most memorable sounds from this experience was the significant winch, the communication radio with other boats nearby, the air which came out of the redfish and a picture stuck in my head of Steen hitting his knife twice on the side of the boat, followed up by an ocean of seabirds’ escape in a second. Pictures worth keeping.

#greenland #fish #fishing #long line #oqaatsut #rodebay

0 notes