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parfumieren · 6 months

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Three Eaux de Cologne (Guerlain)

Tomas -- the cheerful philanderer of Milan Kundera's novel The Unbearable Lightness of Being -- adheres to a self-written code of ethics when arranging his many liaisons. "The important thing," he claims, "is to abide by the rule of threes. Either you see a woman three times in quick succession and then never again, or you maintain relations over the years but make sure that the rendezvous are at least three weeks apart".

Tomas breaks his own rule by remaining with (and even marrying) the tormented Tereza-- but the woman who "understands him best" is Sabina, an artist with whom he shares a bond untrammeled by jealousy or possessiveness. While Tereza represents all that is heavy and serious, Sabina personifies the weightlessness of freedom from attachment. Over time, her ephemeral quality proves contradictory to both Tomas and Tereza, for while she slips in and out of their lives, they cannot forget her-- nor she them. There is something about Sabina which lingers in memory, if not in actuality.

If Sabina were a fragrance, could she be anything but eau de cologne?

When something lovely, brief, plentiful, and refreshing is called for, eau de cologne is the obvious answer. Other fragrance compositions are "heavy" -- complex, deliberate, meant to be taken (and worn) seriously. Cologne is "light" -- a fleeting pleasure intended for impromptu use.

Yet for all its transience, eau de cologne can make a deep impression on the psyche. Many perfume wearers I've met tell of the indelible mark made in their memories by a certain fragrance worn by an older relative. More than half the time, that fragrance is an EDC. The paradox inherent in eau de cologne is that one enjoys so brief a time with it-- but once the bond is established, loyalty lasts a lifetime.

The first eau de cologne released by Giovanni Maria Farina in 1709 set a new standard in fragrance composition and usage. The rules were simple: take a base of orange blossom, peel, and leaf essential oils. Combine them variously with other citrus oils (lemon, lime, mandarin, grapefruit, bergamot), herbs (rosemary, thyme, lavender, artemisia), and florals (usually indolic white flowers such as jasmine or narcissus). Dilute the result in a disproportionately large amount of alcohol (up to nine parts out of ten). Lose the inhibitions, and start splashing it on.

Guerlain's introduction to the eau de cologne playing field came fairly late in the game (1853), by which time the genre was well-established. Guerlain's contribution was the use of stronger aromatic fixatives such as musk and cedar, which preserved the airiness of the classic EDC format while extending its life by a crucial heartbeat. Aside from Farina 1709 Original, 4711 Kölnisch Wasser, and Lanman & Murray Florida Water, the Guerlain series of eaux offers about the best introduction to the eau de cologne aesthetic that I can think of.

Over the last two weeks -- during which the East Coast became a veritable EZ-Bake Oven and the B.O. factor among the public I serve reached an all-time ascendancy -- I've thoroughly enjoyed flitting back and forth between Impériale, Fleurs de Cédrat, and Eau de Guerlain. If breezy, fresh, and fruity is the antidote to summer doldrums, I never needed it more than now.

Created in 1853, Eau de Cologne Impériale is the oldest of Guerlain's colognes. It kicks off with an intense lemon-lime accord, vibrant and exuberant, before revealing its beautiful-but-brief verveine-and-orange-blossom heart. Of course it lasts no longer on skin than it has taken me to type these words, but it's not meant to. One only needs a momentary boost to avoid slipping into a hot-weather case of the vapours.

Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat requires a little more time to appreciate. This one's a sorbet, creamy in texture but not milky in the slightest, with the dryness of powdered sugar and a mild animalic element which keeps it on skin somewhat longer than its counterparts. Its name is a subtle play on words, touching on cèdrat (citron) and cèdre (cedar), both of which it contains. Whether one is more prominent than the other appears to be a matter for the weatherman to decide. On a cooler day -- if you want to call 90°F "cooler"! -- I found much more orange blossom filling the air around me. During a scorcher, the emphasis is on cedarwood. Either way, enchantée.

What can be said about Eau de Guerlain that could possibly further embellish its well-deserved reputation? In descriptive terms, one could call it a delicious lemon-creme and herbal eau de cologne, and stop right there. Who needs more?

Well, I do.

Having never really tried my hand at layering before, I enlisted the Guerlain eaux within the last week for a running experiment in this time-honored perfume practice. Impériale and Eau de Guerlain were close enough in temperament so as to seem destined to be together, while Fleurs de Cédrat -- while playing well with others -- did just as well on its own. I would like to say that nothing could beat the three eaux layered together, one on top of the other. But as it happened, a bottom layer of Tauer's Lonestar Memories propelled the trio into a new and unexpected paradise. (Who knew that Guerlain could benefit from a touch of the dude ranch?)

Sabina, maybe. At the close of The Unbearable Lightness of Being, she too has migrated toward the setting sun-- settling fitfully on the West Coast, where she continues to create despite the alien quality of life around her. Upon learning of Tomas' and Tereza's demise, she writes a will stipulating that her cremated ashes be dispersed to the four winds, so that she may "die under the sign of lightness".

As she has lived, so Sabina will live on-- faithless, free, and true to her inner nature. She would, says Kundera, be lighter than air.

Scent Elements: Hesperides and herbs

#guerlain #Eau de Cologne Impériale #Eau de Guerlain #Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat #perfume review #parfümieren

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parfumery-wiki · 2 years

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Mon Guerlain (eau de parfum) Mon Guerlain Guerlain

Amber

Mon Guerlain Eau de Parfum is an oriental fragrance that enhances exceptional raw materials: french lavender, sambac jasmine, sandalwood and vanilla tahitensis. It expresses the quintessence of a history replete with experiences, nourished by success, expertise and generosity, all infused with the same passion since 1828.

Key notes: Lavender, Vanilla, Sambac jasmine, Sandalwood

#guerlain #mon guerlain #eau de parfum #amber family #lavender #vanilla #sambac jasmine #sandalwood

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retrofragrances · 2 years

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One of the best-selling perfumes of all time, Shalimar was introduced in 1925 by Jacques Guerlain.

#Shalimar #Shalimar by Guerlain #oriental #perfume #eau de cologne #eau de parfum #eau de toilette #fragrance #parfum #cologne #perfumes #scent

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lwowl · 1 year

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#perfume #perfumy #ideal #guerlain #bottle #flakon #parfum #eau de parfum #juice #crystal #fragrance #smell #scent #zapach #l'homme #woń

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softkeiki · 1 year

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#fragrances #perfume #perfumes #eau de toilette #eau de parfum #spritz #bvlgari #salvatore ferragamo #duty free #shopping #soft #softcore #soft aesthetic #cozy aesthetic #muted aesthetic #aesthetic #light academia #light aesthetic #Guerlain

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ommorphiabeautybar · 1 day

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Guerlain · New Spring 2024 Launches

Guerlain has launched many new products for 2024, including new additions to one of my favourite ranges, Terracotta. There’s a reason why I’m such a huge fan of this brand: well crafted and beautifully packaged products + a mindful ethos … what’s not to love? Continue reading Guerlain · New Spring 2024 Launches

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angelitam · 7 months

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La Petite Robe Noire Absolue de Guerlain

La nouvelle Eau de Parfum Absolue pour La Petite Robe Noire de Guerlain. La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum Absolue de Guerlain L’Eau de Parfum Absolue est un hommage vibrant à la rose. La Petite Robe Noire Absolue de Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum Absolue est une déclaration d’amour inconditionnelle à la reine des fleurs, un voyage jusqu’au cœur d’une rose somptueuse à la…

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#Delphine Jelk #delphine jelk la petite robe noire absolue #delphine jelk la petite robe noire absolue guerlain #delphine jelk la petite robe noire eau de parfum absolue #delphine jelk la petite robe noire eau de parfum absolue guerlain #Delphine Jelk x guerlain #guerlain #La Petite Robe Noire Absolue #La Petite Robe Noire Absolue de Guerlain #La Petite Robe Noire eau de parfum Absolue #La Petite Robe Noire eau de parfum Absolue de Guerlain #parfums Guerlain

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perfettamentechic · 1 year

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Outfit of the Day by Paola Moretti

Outfit by Paola Moretti #outfitoftheday #outfit #ootd #wwt #fashionstyle #falloutfit #fallfashion #emiliaclarke #saloni #puralopez #shein #mounser #edieparker #lelesadoughi #pupamilano #milanicosmetics #guerlain #paolamoretti #iho #perfettamentechic

Abito: Saloni Scarpe: Pura Lopez Borsa: SheIn Orecchini: Mounser Anello: Edie Parker Elastico: Lele Sadoughi Nail: Pupa Milano Lipstick: Milani Cosmetics Profumo: Eau de cologne impérial by Guerlain Fashion Blogger: Paola Moretti Instagram: paolamorettiiho

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mistydeyes · 11 months

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perfumes i think the 141 boys enjoy

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summary: Scent is one of the most powerful senses, so what kind of fragrance do the 141 boys + Alejandro like on their significant other?

pairing: 141 x Reader

warnings: none

a/n - i also work for a perfume company so I've had a couple of ideas about what scents the boys like :)

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price - loves expensive, smokey scents on anyone. imagine the scents of a fresh cigar-that's what price wants in a fragrance. notes like pepper, leather, tobacco, cedar wood, and iris will make him crumble.

masculine

oud wood - tom ford notes: oud wood, sandalwood, chinese pepper

osmanthe kodoshan - maison crivelli notes: leather, tobacco, sichuan pepper, apricot, peach

functional fragrance - the nue co. notes: cardamom, iris, palo santo, cilantro

unisex

hinoki fantôme - boy smells notes: tobacco leaves, oak moss, and smoked leather

jazz club - maison marigela notes: pink pepper, rum, tobacco

lumière d’iris - veronique gabai notes: rose, iris, cedarwood, amber

feminine

baccarat rouge 540 - maison francis kurkdjia notes: jasmine, ambergris, saffron, cedar wood

cuir béluga - guerlain notes: leather, powder, vanilla

platinum 22 - floris london notes: rose, violet leaf, blackcurrant, oat, black tea

soap - woodsy, floral scents are soap's surprising pick. it brings back memories of the scottish countryside, adventuring in the woods and smelling the fresh flowers his mam had. notice notes of herbs (sage, rosemary, mint), lavender, and violet.

masculine

sauvage - dior notes: pepper, amberwood, bergamot, powder

h24 - hermès notes: clary sage, narcissus, rosewood

new york wall street - bond no.9 notes: sea kale, cucumber, lavender, ambergris, vetiver

unisex

voodoo chile - dries van noten notes: rosemary, patchouli, hemp

libre - yves saint laurent notes: lavender, musk

dirty grass - heretic notes: black pepper, lemon, hemp, violet

feminine

melancholy thistle - jo malone london notes: thistle, english ivy, cool wood

portrait of a lady - frédéric malle notes: frankincense, black currant, raspberry, patchouli

la tulipe - byredo notes: tulips, cyclamen, fressia, rhubarb

gaz - FLORAL CITRUS will make this man fall in love with you. it reminds him of a warm summer day sitting in the grass and smelling flowers. look for summery fragrances with notes of citrus, lemon, sage, and fresh herbs.

masculine

bleu de chanel - chanel notes: citrus, labdanum, sandalwood, cedar

polo black - ralph lauren notes: iced mango, lemon, tangerine, sandalwood, sage, patchouli

l'homme - yves saint laurent notes: bergamot, ginger, cedar wood, vetiver

unisex

cactus garden - louis vuitton notes: maté, bergamot, lemongrass

velvet cypress - dolce & gabbana notes: pine, lemon zest, bergamot, clary sage

eau de campagne - sisley notes: grass, citrus, herbs, jasmine, lily of the valley

feminine

brazilian crush cheirosa 62 - sol de janeiro notes: pistachio, almond, sandalwood, heliotrope, jasmine

her blossom - burberry notes: mandarin, plum blossom, sandalwood

flora gorgeous jasmine - gucci notes: mandarin, jasmine, magnolia, sandalwood

ghost - likes a light, musky scent! he loves when a scent adds to a person's natural smell (he hates sugary, gourmand scents). ingredients like musk, ambrox, pepper, sandalwood catch his eye as he pictures fresh sheets and a rainfall in a forest.

masculine

geranium pour monsieur - frédéric malle notes: mint, aniseed, sandalwood, geranium, frankincense

atlantis - blu atlas notes: orris, oak moss, violet, musk, ambrette seed

gentleman - givenchy notes: pear, lavender, patchouli

unisex

glossier you - glossier notes: pink pepper, iris, ambrette seeds, ambrox

not a perfume - juliette has a gun notes: ambergris

santal 33 - le labo notes: violet cardamom, cedar wood, iris, ambrox

feminine

missing person - phlur notes: musk, bergamot, jasmine, neroli, sandalwood

golden nectar - nest notes: florals, orchid, amber, musk

apollonia - xerjoff notes: white floral, orris butter, white musk

extra! alejandro - if ghost likes it simple and light, then alejandro is the exact opposite. he loves when he can smell someone's fragrance across the room. focus on bold fragrances with spicy notes of nutmeg, myrrh, and rum that is mixed with the gourmand of vanilla, almond, and tonka bean.

masculine

the last day of summer - gucci notes: cedarwood, cypress, nutmeg, patchouli, vetiver

bibliothèque - byredo notes: peach, peony, violet, leather, patchouli, vanilla

london myrrh & tonka - jo malone notes: almond, vanilla, myrrh, lavender, honey

unisex

tobacco vanille - tom ford notes: tonka bean, vanilla. cacao

dark rum - malin + goetz notes: anise, plum, leather, rum, patchouli, amber

tao dao - diptyque notes: sandalwood, cedar, cypress, myrte

feminine

lost cherry - tom ford notes: black cherry, tonka bean, almond

brazil aroma - costa notes: white jungle flora, orange oil, pink pepper, bourbon, vetiver, patchouli

babylon - penhaligon's notes: saffron, nutmeg, coriander, cedar wood, vanilla, cypriol

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astrobiscuits · 3 months

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hi I often see people say that Venus in Taurus would like someone homely, who cooks well and all that, but these are not the things that you can show at the first meeting. So What would attract Venus in Taurus at first glance/at first meeting? (especially if we are talking about a men)

Hii, i must admit that i love your question! It's very original, you must be a creative✨♡♡♡

I'm going to assume that you'll talk to him atleast/go on a date

Ways to attract a Venus in Taurus man

Smell: Venus in Taurus men tend to have hypersomia (sensitivity to smells), so wearing perfume is a must if you want to attract the attention of this man. Your best options would be: classic, timeless perfumes like L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, Miss Dior by Dior and Chanel N°5 by Chanel; floral perfumes (but not those exotic floral ones) like J'adore Parfum d'Eau by Dior or fruity fragrances like Daisy Love Eau So Sweet by Marc Jacobs, Light Blue Eau Intense by Dolce & Gabbana and Aqua Allegoria Rosa Rossa Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

Body care and fashion: The earthy, Venusian men are attracted to a woman who indulges in self-care to make herself feel like a queen. These men are visual creatures, so they'll definitely notice if you prioritise your looks. Don't forget to exfoliate your whole body, shave everywhere and choose to wear something that will attract his attention, like a red dress. You can also choose to wear red lipstick (both lighter and darker shades of red work!)

Voice and neck: Taurus rules the vocal cords, but also the neck. Choose to highlight your beautiful neck by wearing a necklace you love. If you tend to speak at a faster rate, slow down around Taurus Venus men. They're sensual creatures and your voice can become one tool to spice up his mood. I'd say Taurus Venus men are attracted to both higher-pitched voices and lower-pitched voice, but you need to know when to use it, rather than how to use it. Sometimes, all these men need is silence, not words.

Hobbies: Since Venus feels at home in Taurus, pleasure is something to be pursued often by Venus in Taurus men. Their hobbies and interests matter to him a great deal, so make sure to show him attention when he speaks about his hobbies. It would be the best if you two share common hobbies or interests - he's not the type to try out new stuff, so you have to be okay with going hiking with him every weekend or playing the piano together.

(This is for when you get to know him better, but i still thought it would be a good idea to include it) Long-term goals: After he gets to know you better, a Taurus Venus man is likely to ask you: "Where do you see yourself in 5/10 years?". You need to have an answer to that question. He doesn't need to know how you will get there - he just wants to see if you know what you want out of life. Show him confidently that you do and speak passionately about whatever you want to achieve. He will find you incredibly attractive - Venus in Taurus men love true, silent confidence on a woman.

Good luck attracting him, girl💕

#astro #astro community #astrology #astro placements #astro observations #astro posts #astroblr #astro blog #astro notes #venus in taurus #taurus venus

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god-infected · 7 months

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Horror Girls & Perfume Associations

Irena Dubrovna (Cat People): "Something warm and living" Ciara by Revlon (neroli, ylang ylang, amber)

Thomasin (The Witch): "When I sleep my spirit slips away from my body and dances naked with The Devil" Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain (incense, bulgarian rose, vanilla, cedar) layered over Dirt by Demeter Fragrance

Carrie White (Carrie): "They're all gonna laugh at you!" Heaven Sent by Dana (apple blossom, lily of the valley, musk)

Contess Elizabeth Bathory (Daughters of Darkness): "Love is stronger than death... even than life." La Panthere by Cartier (dried fruits, strawberry, rhubarb, rose, oakmoss)

Edith Cushing (Crimson Peak): "Ghosts are real, that much I know. I've seen them all my life..." Rose Of No Man's Land by Byredo (turkish red rose, raspberry bloom, amber, pink pepper)

Lucille Sharpe (Crimson Peak): "The horror was for love" Criminal of Love by By Kilian (saffron, turkish rose, tobacco)

Anna (Possession): "I feel nothing for no-one!" Fidji Eau de Toilette by Guy Laroche (aldehydes, cloves, amber, rose, vetiver)

Rosaleen (The Company of the Wolves): "I'd never let a man strike me" Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka (vanilla, praline, licorice)

Sandie (Last Night in Soho): "I've been in a prison all my life"Chant d'Arômes Eau de Toilette by Guerlain (honeysuckle, ylang ylang, vanilla)

Helen (Candyman): "Your death will be a tale to frighten children, to make lovers cling closer in their rapture" Shalimar Eau de Parfum by Guerlain (bergamot, iris, vanilla)

#the edith choice might be very controversial but i feel like she would love that #perfume #horror movies

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parfumery-wiki · 2 years

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Flora Cherrysia (eau de toilette) Aqua Allegoria Guerlain Nose: Delphine Jelk

Floral

As though blurred, a cherry blossom accord becomes evanescent with the fruity notes of nashi and watermelon, on a woody background delicately powdered by a note of violet.

Key notes: Cherry blossom, Nashi pear, Calabria bergamot, Violet

#guerlain #eau de toilette #guerlain aqua allegoria #delphine jelk #floral #cherry blossom #nashi pear #calabria bergamot #violet

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cleolinda · 1 year

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Samsara (Guerlain, 1989 EdP & 2023 EdT)

A sandalwood overdose embellished by ylang-ylang and jasmine. Samsara is the first woody women's fragrance in perfumery. It is constructed over a beautifully crafted sandalwood, used for the first time in these quantities in perfumery. (Guerlain.com)

From Eau de Tati, the back story:

Jean-Paul Guerlain created Samsara in 1985 for Decia de Powell, the woman he loved and who wore the fragrance for four years before it was launched. Jean-Paul took the opportunity to create the perfume for her, as she could not find a perfume that appealed to her. She liked jasmine and sandalwood, in particular, and these were the raw materials on which Samsara was based.

It seems that Gérard Anthony co-created the fragrance, but Guerlain has always loved a good legend. Whether the Sanskrit word "saṃsāra" ("the concept of rebirth and 'cyclicality of all life, matter, existence'") suits the fragrance as a name is a lengthy discussion I'll leave to others.

On the face of it, Samsara is another Guerlain journey into orientalism (stop that!); it's a classic example of loud 1980s fragrance (outdated); it's a benchmark in the Western perfume industry's use of sandalwood (notable). I wanted to write up this one purely because I already had it on hand: when I say "1989," I mean, my mom gave me an eau de parfum sample in 1989. I would have been about ten years old, and I loved collecting little sample vials that gave me too many headaches to actually use—just to keep in my little treasure boxes full of costume jewelry and tumbled rocks and skeleton keys. Apparently I was a magpie, or maybe a dragon. There's only about five molecules left, but as it turns out, that is more than enough.

I also ordered a fresh decant of the current formulation from the Perfumed Court—all they had was the eau de toilette, not the EdP, so this is not a one-to-one comparison. Instead, we have, on one hand, the most aged a Samsara can get, saved since its debut year, and on the other, the lightest, freshest iteration possible. It's lovely, that new EdT. But it's not what I expected at all. A couple of years ago I managed to uncork the 1989 Samsara, and all I got was this incredible note of mingled sandalwood and jasmine—just the richest, smoothest, deepest thing you've ever smelled. But the new one, from my notes: "BUBBLEGUM??"

Powdery fresh floral, rose? Like a living flower that happens to be powdery, not a cosmetic. Very very fresh and outdoorsy, like a garden. The vague idea of sandalwood underneath. Something a bit sweeter coming out, maybe vanilla jasmine. Very light, very easy to wear. Airy, breezy. Sheer.

And then, ten minutes in, bubblegum came out. Motherfucking bubblegum. I had to look up what the old-fashioned Bazooka Joe-type flavor is, because it's not that—there's no tiny twang of clove or wintergreen hiding behind the fruits and vanilla. This is straight-up Juicy Fruit gum. Which involves banana, pineapple, and maybe peach, for a flavor "resembling jackfruit." Now, apparently jackfruit contains "banana oil," aka isoamyl acetate, so I went and googled it on a hunch: yes, it’s in ylang ylang too. Combine that with Samsara's actual peach note (although it smells fresher than the lactone in Mitsouko) and vanilla—

Basenotes.com: Green notes, peach, ylang ylang, bergamot, lemon, iris and orris, violet, jasmine, rose, narcissus, sandalwood, tonka, amber, musk, and vanilla.

—and you've got a powdery-nectar sandalwood bubblegum. It's so good. Two birthdays ago, I got myself a wide-ranging set of essential oils, just so I could see what things smell like individually; the night after I tried Samsara, I started messing around with them, and it's 10,000% the ylang that's bringing the strange fruity note. I rarely if ever see anyone mention the ylang-ylang in Samsara—they always talk about how strong the jasmine is, but I SWEAR TO YOU that this is what it does on me. In fact, twenty minutes in, Bubble Ylang was mostly what I was smelling.

At the same time, the fresh EdT was really, really powdery—you see iris there in not one but two levels of the note pyramid, and orris is just iris root. The classic Guerlains use the ionones of iris and violet a lot; they're in the house accord, the Guerlinade, which I may also try to get a sample of. But the powder is so much stronger in Samsara than I expected. I was promised a sandalwood overdose, and I'm sitting here with Juicy Fruit floating over a bed of irises—like the row of cool dark purple ones we had lining our driveway when I was a kid—at the half-hour mark. According to my notes, I didn't really get ~sandalwood until an hour-twenty, and even that was still blurring into the ylang-ylang. (Apparently these two notes are really compatible; it's the only thing same combination I liked in Chanel No. 5.) That said, it's lovely and sweet and easygoing if you APPLY SPARINGLY. Of the three Guerlains I've tried, this one was by far the easiest to wear.

Which is wild, because supposedly, Samsara is A Sandalwood Bomb, a true big-hair fume of the '80s that will choke you out of a room. And yet, I didn't even get the sandalwood clearly until more than an hour in. There's two reasons for this, I discovered:

One is that I microdose perfume. I always point this out because I want you to understand that if you apply more fragrance than I do, you are not going to get the tame results I do. If you spray Tyrannosaurus Rex all over yourself, there is nothing god or mortal can do for you. I used two swipes of the Samsara sample wand on my left wrist—and it did project a good bit, but it was comfortable. If I'd done the same on my right wrist to balance it out, I would have considered myself good to go for a perfume-appropriate occasion. Maybe if you didn't deploy FIVE SPRAYS you wouldn’t be choking on it, idk idk.

The other reason is that the current formulation of Samsara uses Australian sandalwood—whereas the original used a much richer Indian variety. I was surprised to discover that Samsara has always been formulated as a meeting of natural and synthetic sandalwoods, though. But the current version has a newer synthetic: Javanol. And the thing about Javanol is that some people can't smell it. And I may be one of them. Because there is no reason "an overdose of sandalwood" should smell this modest to me, in the same perfume that is shouting white floral, unless I physically cannot perceive its loudest component. But I'm smelling some sandalwood; that must be the natural oil.

For more on Javanol, I turn to a fragrance I haven't actually tried yet: Escentric Molecules' Molecule 04. Javanol is, in fact, that molecule. The product website explains, it's a synthetic that

retains the radiance and endurance of natural sandalwood, but is sheer and transparent like no sandalwood in nature. “What I love about Javanol is its almost psychedelic freshness,” says [creator] Geza Schoen. “It smells as if liquid metallic grapefruit peel were poured over a bed of velvety cream-coloured roses.” Javanol is like Iso E Super, the molecule in Escentric Molecules 01, in some ways. Like Iso E Super, it comes and goes. The person wearing it loses the ability to smell it after a short while, only to re-connect with it later.

Well, "it comes and goes" may be why I'm not smelling as much sandalwood in Samsara as advertised, I guess—maybe I’m not totally anosmic to Javanol? The company that makes it, Givaudan, says that the aromachemical has

a rich, natural, creamy sandalwood note like beta santanol combined with some rosy nuances. It can also be used at very low dosage (below 0.1%) to bring richness and creaminess to all types of accords. With its exceptional low threshold, Javanol™ is approximately 8 times more effective in wash tests than the most powerful sandalwood product. [...] In the quest for the perfect Indian Sandalwood, Javanol™ is probably the most versatile note with its power, radiance, woodiness and rosiness, blending perfectly with flowers.

Javanol blends so perfectly with ylang and jasmine, in fact, that I can hardly distinguish it through most of Samsara's lifespan on my skin (I appreciate a good olfactory chimera, so that's fine). I can also see why you'd reformulate Samsara, already famous for its Godzilla-sized projection, with the biggest, loudest synthetic sandalwood on the market. But the thing is, the Beast of Givaudan wasn't created until 1996. Javanol may be what Guerlain has paired with Australian sandalwood nowadays, but my original sample was made with [probably a mix of synthetics including] Givaudan's Sandalore and the good stuff—20% (!) Mysore sandalwood.

Mysore Sandalwood Oil is a trademarked perfume oil extracted from the Santalum album variety of sandalwood tree (also known as a "royal tree") in the Mysore district of Karnataka, India. The tree species is said to be one of the best varieties in the world. (Wikipedia, the most concise explainer)

It's also the most expensive. But while I'm sure reformulations are a cost-cutting measure, sandalwood sustainability has also become a huge issue; I'm happy with synthetics if it helps the cause. The Australian sandalwood used in the current Samsara seems to be a popular and less-threatened natural option; it's also in two other fragrances I'm trying at the moment, Le Labo's Santal 33 and Tom Ford's Santal Blush. But it's like the difference between tulle and velvet. You can still use it beautifully, but there is a smoothness and a weight that's missing. People say that Mysore sandalwood is "creamy," even sweet, and it is, but not in a dairy or dessert way; it's legitimately this kind of olfactory texture that's so good. By contrast, the scent of Australian sandalwood feels a little harsh in the top of my nose, full of wood grain and pencil shavings, but also lighter. And yet it blends just as well with the notes of the new Samsara, just in different ways.

As for the old—Mysore and Sandalore® were what greeted me when I uncapped my vintage, 34-year-old sample:

oh my god. ohhhhh my gooooood.

That big sweet fruity ylang-ylang immediately bounced right out—how had I only smelled jasmine in the vial before? I'll stop here and tell you a little bit about ylang-ylang, which is not the note I was expecting to go on about, but here we are:

When you hear about "white florals," they're generally talking about jasmine, gardenia, tuberose (you'll remember this one from HYPNOTIC POISON), lily, lily of the valley—and ylang ylang, even though the latter is a showy yellow flower. I truly don't know how to describe the White Floral if you're not familiar with it, especially since I've never perceived any funky "animalic" indole notes. It's just good to me, very rich, very perfumy, and apparently it does, in an aromatherapy context, have a slightly sedative effect; this may be why people talk about "narcotic" white florals. Ylang-ylang takes the woozy richness of jasmine and, uniquely, adds that fruity, slightly spicy, banana-esque note; I'd love to look for the differences between white florals as I try out more fragrances. With Samsara(s), the jasmine doesn't seem distinct to me, serving instead to support the ylang-ylang, and maybe this is why I only smelled jasmine in the vial: it's my skin chemistry, once again, that's playing favorites.

You know what else my skin apparently loves? Expensive vintage sandalwood. The original Samsara skipped straight to the 1:20 mark and—speaking of narcotics—hit me like a tranquilizer dart. I just curled up on my bed and held my wrist to my nose for about an hour. I was like a cat on the 'nip. My God. I had some hand-me-down incense sticks from the '70s when I was a teenager, and I have been chasing that sandalwood high for three decades. This is it. The blanket of iris, the bergamot blast other reviewers talk about (I only got it the third time I wore the EdT), the supporting cast of notes—barely there. Just the gold.

For about two hours, it was amazing. Then, gradually, Samsara grew more and more overpowering, like a rogue science project slowly ballooning out of control. I ended up wiping it off with a little jojoba oil—not washing it off (DON'T WASTE IT!!), but reducing the amount I had on. There's only about two drops, thick as maple syrup, left in that vial, and that's fine.

Meanwhile, every time I wear the current eau de toilette, it disappears after about three hours.

I wish I'd been able to get a current EdP sample to compare the two formulations directly. But you know what? I still enjoy the iris-forward, sandalwood-backward Samsara. It's easy to wear and it doesn't overstay its welcome, which is a good thing for someone with fragrance sensitivities (me). As much as I love the smooth golden Mysore aspect, I'd rather have the option to reapply than be trapped with the Sandalwood That Ate 1989.

Perfume discussion masterpost

#perfume #perfume discussion #perfume: guerlain #the beast of givaudan #note: sandalwood #note: ylang ylang #note: iris #note: white florals #note: javanol #long post

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myduckieworld · 7 months

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Yellowjackets perfume headcanons:

Shauna: Safari by Ralph Lauren. It's a bold scent for someone who thinks herself to be invisible. The hyacinth and galibanum are fresh and clean at the begining but a little later, as it dries, you can't escape the woods: sandalwood, cedar and amber. Her ph brings those out even more and it smells like strenght and sturdiness in a way that can be too addictive.

Jackie: Shalimar by Guerlain. It's a powerful an sensual fragrance. Extremely alluring, first with the bergamote and then the iris, jasmine and rose. It's made to stand out and turn heads. She was first attracted to the woodsy notes she thought she'd find but the ph of her skin hides them and brings out instead the touches of vanilla, which makes it much sweeter without being cloying. Mostly, though, Jackie became obsessed when the lady at the counter told her that this perfume was inspired by the tragic love story of emperor Shah Jahan and the lost too soon princess Mumtaz Mahal, and how Shalimar means "temple of love" in Sanskrit and symbolises "the promise of eternal love forevermore".

Nat: Eau de Cologne Lavanda Wally. Nat was mostly looking for a scent that could cover the smell of pot but she liked the strong smell of the lavender and the touch of cinnamon. When you add the scent of her leather jacket and the faint touch of cigarrettes, it's just all quite an attractive mix. Her jacket already has that mix fully impregnated so that's become part of Nat's natural scent even when she's not wearing the cologne.

Lottie: Poème by Lancôme. It's fancy and exquisite, imposible to miss but soft all the same. With the peach and flowers making it so unabashedly feminine. If you concentrate, you can find the heliotrope among the tuberose and narcissus. Lottie smells expensive and alluring, in a way that is always intriguing.

Taissa: Youth Dew by Estée Lauder. It's warm and spicy, an imposing scent that it's hard to describe but your nose willingly will follow, with a balsam heart that feels like a strong hold. There’s a touch of everything, frim vetiver to Ylang Ylang, to insence to coca cola. It's like she can do anything, try anything be anyone. And she will.

Van: Old Spice. It smells like freedom to them.

Laura Lee: Woods of Windsor's Lilly of The Valley, powder talc. It's fresh and clean in a way that is surprisingly not overly sweet.

Misty: Anaïs, Anaïs by Cacharel. Her PH brings out the pears, peonies and cocoa. Not the mix she wanted when she cot a wiff of one of the girls in the varsity team when she was a junior but its still really nice. Her mom said so.

#yellowjackets #shauna shipman #jackie taylor #96yellowjackets #natalie scatorccio #lottie matthews #van palmer #taissa turner #misty quigley #laura lee #headcanon #perfume #yj

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