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The Story Behind Hamish Bowles’s Maison Margiela Artisanal by John Galliano Met Gala Look

By Hamish Bowles, published by Vogue on 08 May 2019. Photography by Mehdi Lacoste.

John Galliano was always a star. When I started on my Foundation course in the early 1980s at Saint Martin’s School of Art, as it was then known, he was already a supernova of the fashion department, his exquisite drawings setting him on a sure path to becoming an illustrator. He inspired me to decide on a career in fashion rather than costume design (I had been torn), and after the Foundation course, I stayed on at Saint Martin’s to pursue just that. As John worked on his degree collection the following year, he holed up in the college library, hidden behind stacks of reference books that served a double purpose: They defined his private work space and helped to shield his jealously guarded sketches from prying eyes. As it turned out, John had taken inspiration from the Incroyables—the male and female dandies who emerged in the wake of the French Revolution with their own exaggerated versions of revolutionary style. He even burnt the edges of his drawings and dripped candle wax over them to create the illusion that they had been salvaged from an aristocrat’s ransacked mansion.

The collection was sensational—Joan Burstein, who ran Browns, London’s most fashionable boutique, bought it in its entirety. John couldn’t afford a taxi to transport it, so he wheeled it on a dress rail all the way to South Molton Street, where Mrs. B put it in her window and Barbra Streisand and Diana Ross bought pieces right out of it: They were his very first clients. John turned down a job offer to become an illustrator in New York and instead set up his eponymous brand there and then on a wing and a prayer.

I wore pieces from that first collection—waistcoats made from patches of 18th-century-style upholstery silks and sprigged cottons, jersey long johns, and vast organza shirts tying at the throat with a huge jabot. (John has re-created one of these looks to complete an ensemble built around a coat from this collection that the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s costume department has recently acquired and that is showcased in Andrew Bolton’s brilliant “Camp: Notes on Fashion” exhibition.)

The following season, John didn’t have the money to stage a fashion show, so he did a presentation instead in an old artist’s studio off the King’s Road. This collection was based on a 1920s cartoon in the satirical British weekly Punch titled Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals, and it explored a collision of Occidental and Afghan dress in John’s characteristically intriguing way. One of my ensembles from this collection—including a knee-length skirt that caused a sensation in Paris when I wore it to the collections that season—is now in the Boston Museum of Fine Art’s exhibition “Gender Bending Fashion.”

As soon as I heard the theme of this year’s Costume Institute show, I thought it would be the perfect moment to work again with John, who has found expression for his unquenchable creative force once more at the Maison Margiela. John had already made me a bias-cut black satin evening suit that evoked Shalom Harlow’s look from his unforgettable Fall 1994 show in Paris socialite Sao Schlumberger’s empty Louis Seize mansion.

To my great delight, John was soon on board. I sent some inspiration images of my eclectic pantheon of camp icons, including Mrs. Slocombe, the character with the Elnett-hairspray-bottle hair in ever-changing pastel hues, from the British sitcom Are You Being Served?; Quentin Crisp; Barbara Cartland; and Jazz Age aesthete Stephen Tennant. Together with John’s partner, Alexis Roche, we looked at looks from the Martin Margiela Artisanal Men’s Spring 2019 collection and isolated some silhouettes that we thought could work for me.

Source: Maison Margiela

At Saint Martin’s, John and I shared an inspirational mutual friend in the indubitably camp form of David Harrison, who was studying in the Fine Art department, had once improbably been scouted to front a punk band to be called the Sex Pistols (Johnny Rotten got the gig), and worked a Teddy Boy look that he accessorized with white winklepicker shoes, a peroxide quiff, and a pom-pom clipped white poodle dyed shocking pink who often appeared in his artworks. John’s studio had produced a frenetic collage print that was worked not only into the clothes but the runway itself, and that incorporated an Yves Klein blue poodle in everything from jacquard to tufted embroidery. I wondered if the poodle couldn’t go pink in homage to our camp friend?

Meanwhile, John’s studio sourced a jacquard cravat in mauve from Charvet, the storied Parisian men’s outfitter, and a selection of textiles in shades of grape and wisteria. (Charvet also made the shirt, and I found some Pepto-Bismol pink cufflinks in my own closet that the sculptor Andrew Logan had made for the John Waters high-camp superstar Divine in 1987. These would be my talismans for the night.)

When I went to Paris for my first fitting, after an initial visit to take measurements, John wasn’t in town, but Raffaele Ilardo, Margiela’s inspired head fitter, and his associate Jung A. Park were there to attend to all the finer points. There was already an amazing sample of the jacquard with the electric-pink poodles, and of the ostrich trim that John had instructed be embellished with metallic lurex threads to catch the light on the red (pink) carpet. (“Invisible to the naked eye but will pop in pictures, trust me,” he said.) Ilardo apprenticed with the legendary tailor Paquito (who carved Karl Lagerfeld’s most amazing suits at Chanel Haute Couture in the ’80s and ’90s), and he had made the most beautiful toiles, with a jacket that sat perfectly on my shoulders without adjustment and had a beautifully constructed rising roll at the top of the sleeves. The cape was constructed like a Victorian visite, with openings for the arms and subtle shaping in back. It was so perfectly constructed that I could have worn the toile itself.

Raffaele Ilardo working on the toile. Photographed by Alexis Roche.

“I advise that cape is rehearsed up and down steps if you can,” said John after he reviewed the fittings videos from afar. “No angle must be left to chance but still must look spontaneous. Every swish must be ingrained in the subconscious, and always imagine that Avedon is following you. A sudden knock at the door works wonders for that frozen-eyes-to-the-left look. Never forget Avedon is your focal point.”

A little over two weeks later, with the clock ticking before the Gala, I returned to Paris for a final fitting with John in the house. To my amazement, the entire ensemble had now been made, including the wide-toed Mary Jane shoes, shown in patent but specially remade for me in violet satin. There were two options of subtly different lilac, for a sheer sock dotted with a point d’esprit effect that was faintly obfuscated by the crushed hairs on my legs and would definitely be showcased, as the short pants hovered only a little below the knee. John gave my lower calves a long, hard look. “You’ll wax them just before the gala,” he instructed firmly. (“Always better when viewed through sheer, tons of moisturizer 15 mins before socks are put on,” he advised nearer the day.)

“It’s unbelievable,” I said when I saw the cape arranged on a tailor’s dummy in John’s light-flooded Margiela atelier. “It’ll only become unbelievable when you start to wear it,” said John. And, sure enough, when I put on the cloak and began walking up and down the studio and it caught the air in its massy volumes, it lifted up like a cloud, and, despite the thick feather fronding, seemed almost as light as one. “La légèreté!” John proclaimed exultantly, “It looks like a canvas, like you’re coming out of a painting.” I used the Margiela staircase to rehearse maneuvering the cape up and down the pink carpet, and I tried to work it from every angle, thinking by turns of Dietrich and Dovima and Proust’s beloved Comtesse Greffulhe. (“I love that little coyness!” said John. “It’s a Dorian Gray moment!”)

I’d asked John’s longtime collaborator and my great friend Stephen Jones for thoughts on something for the head (he concocted the custom top knots for the “Camp” exhibition mannequins) and he designed a wonderful tiara bandeau made of Swarovski crystals that were custom-produced in the required lilac hue and, like those lurex fronds, would add some pink carpet dazzle. John pronounced it a “very cool touch” and suggested “surfer pink” hair to match.”

On the eve of the gala, I submitted to leg waxing and sundry other beautifications (“Lymphatic drainage on face the night before always refines,” John had counseled, and thank you, Tracie Martyn, skin alchemist). On the morn, I went to the Greenwich Hotel to be ministered to by the brilliant Teddy Charles and his assistant Satoshi Ikeda, alongside Amber Valletta, and then I hied up to the St. Regis in a white Maserati to meet John, Alexis, and Raffaele and practice some more swishing and strutting in the hotel’s ballroom under their watchful eyes. “The Japanese kids are going to go mental for it,” said John of my Savile Row meets School Boy meets Comtesse de Castiglione lewk. Stephen fitted the tiara, which perfectly framed those Teddy-tweaked waves.

“Command your space!” said John as I headed out, “Hamish, it will be a riot!” How right he was.

Hamish Bowles at a fitting for his first custom Margiela look in 2018, photographed by Alexis Roche.

Source: Vogue.com

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Jual Pipa Drainase Beton di Bogor

Drainase ialah salah satu sarana basic yang di desain juga sebagai system bagi memenuhi kepentingan penduduk dan merupakan kompenen utama dalam persiapan kota(perencanaan infrastruktur terlebih). Drainase serta mampu diistilahkan sbg business terhadap mengendalikan kwalitas air daerah dalam kaitannya dgn salinitas, di mana drainase adalah salah satu tips eliminasi keunggulan air yang tak di inginkan guna sebuah wilayah, kembali sistem-metode penaggulangan honorarium yang dimunculkan oleh keistimewaan air tersebut. dari sudut pandang yang lain, drainase ialah salah satu elemen permulaan perasana biasa yang diperlukan penduduk kota dalam rangka menuju kehidupan kota yang aman, nyaman, steril, dan sehat. Drainase yang berasal dari kata to drain yang berarti mengeringkan atau mengalirkan air drainase, ialah suatu metode pembuangan air bersih dan air limbah dari tempat pemukiman, industri, pertanian, badan jalan dan permukaan perkerasan lainnya, serta berupa penyaluran kelebihan air pada lazimnya, baik berupa air hujan, air limbah maupun air kotor lainnya yang keluar dari kawasan yang bersangkutan bagus di atas ataupun di bawah permukaan tanah ke badan air atau ke bangunan resapan buatan. Manfaat / Fungsi Drainase: Untuk mengurangi kelebihan air dari suatu kawasan atau lahan, sehigga lahan bisa difungsikan secara optimal. Sebagai pengendali air kepermukaan dengan perbuatan untuk membenarkan daerah becek, genangan air/banjir. Menurunkan permukaan air tanah pada tingkat yang ideal. Mengatur erosi tanah, kerusakan jalan dan bangunan yang ada. Mengendalikan air hujan yang berlebihan sehinga tidak terjadi musibah banjir.

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Here’s how to get the V-shaped face of your dreams

A V-shaped face is the ideal for many women for several reasons: it makes you look slimmer, younger, and altogether more feminine. In fact, it’s so sought after that many celebrities and socialites have even gone under the scalpel to shave their jawlines into a sharp, defined V. That may be a bit extreme for most of us (not to mention out of our price range) so we’ve rounded up the next best ways to achieve the ideal jawline.

Make faces

When you’re exercising it, that is! Facial exercises are the simplest and most cost-effective way to get the sharp, defined jawline of your dreams, plus you don’t need any special equipment, space, or time of day to do it. Here's a popular exercise which you can easily fit into your daily routine: tilt your head back slightly, then firmly tap the tip of your tongue behind your upper teeth, on that hard ridge on the roof of your mouth. Tap and relax for a minute, while keeping your head tilted back. You should be able to feel the muscles working under your chin. With consistent effort, you should see a toned, slimmer face in no time.

Massage away the bloat

Sometimes fluid retention is to blame for any puffiness you see in your face. To keep bloat at bay, invest in a lymphatic drainage massage for your face. Lymphatic massage helps the lymph system do its job better, which is carrying waste products away from body tissues back toward the heart. This reduces swelling and removes toxins from the body. For an added boost, invest in a face roller, a fuss-free way to combat puffiness. Move the roller upward as if pulling the skin on your chin toward the area under your ears. Just put something on the TV and roll away!

Watch your diet

Puffiness in the face can also be a result of an unbalanced diet, especially one that is high in sodium. That doesn’t mean you need to throw out your salt shaker just yet. Most of the sodium that ends up in our bodies comes from processed and pre-packaged foods, so the next time you’re thinking of succumbing to those 12am instant ramen cravings, don’t! But if you do, make sure to drink plenty of water to flush out the sodium.

Invest in good skincare

If you’ve been constantly exercising and massaging your face, but want to speed up the effect, try investing in face lifting products. The CHANEL Le Lift line has been raved over by beauty junkies and experts alike for their almost instantaneous results. Le Lift V-Flash is a firming serum that visibly tightens skin when applied, sharpening the outline of your face. The Le Lift Massage Cream, on the other hand, softens skin and fades wrinkles, as well as getting rid of sag or roundness, leaving you looking and feeling utterly refreshed.

Make up the slack

If all else fails, take a page from the Kardashian playbook and learn how to contour your face. It’s the easiest, albeit temporary, way to make your face look thinner, but the effects can be dramatic. Make sure to choose a contour shade that matches the natural shadowy tones of your face, and apply in precise strokes in the hollows of your cheeks, around the temples, and around the jaw and neck. Then, dust on Plissé Lumière de CHANEL onto your cheekbones and nose bridge for a natural golden glow!

Doing the Most: My Acne-Prone Skincare Routine

If you’ve been following me for a while, you might remember that I’ve been struggling with breakouts forever. And I mean over ten years of constant active breakouts. Way too long. Sometimes my skin improves a bit and gets mostly clear, sometimes I wake up to a fresh hell field of cysts - it’s a rollercoaster I don’t love. So recently, fed up with my skin being at its worst ever, I finally sought some professional advice. I was feeling like the advice and ingredients I’d typically recommend to other people for acne just weren’t cutting it for me, or were actively making things worse, so I was probably long overdue for a consultation. And that’s how I ended up at a medical spa seeking a recommended SkinCeuticals routine (medical grade skincare seemed like a good next option to try). My current routine is a mix of recommendations from the nurse I met with (marked with an *) and things I’ve found support my overall skin health. And is, without a doubt, extra. Keep in mind my skin is neither oily nor dry and is on the sensitive side. Let’s get into it:

Morning Routine

I start off by washing my face with the Glowbiotics MD Probiotic Acne Treatment Cleanser* which has 2% salicylic acid for exfoliation, probiotics, peptides, and other calming and healing ingredients. To make sure my skin is super clean, I try to make sure I massage it in for about two minutes. After cleansing, I go in with The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%. Niacinamide helps to calm blemishes and reduce skin congestion while zinc helps to reduce the bacteria that causes acne and reduce oil production. I’ve been following that up with the Dr. Barbara Sturm Hyaluronic Serum and Drunk Elephant Protini Moisturizer to make sure my skin is properly hydrated and my skin barrier is as strong as it can be. Dehydrated skin and a compromised skin barrier can both lead to an increase in breakouts, and as I recently turned 25, I’m trying to cover my anti-aging bases too. Throw in the m61 Hydraboost Eye Concentrate and the REN Clean Screen SPF 30 and I’m set for the day.

Night Routine

To take the day off my face, I’ve been relying on the Chanel Le Lait Anti-Pollution Cleansing Milk and following that up with the Glowbiotics MD Probiotic Revitalizing Cleanser*. Both are super hydrating and soothing. Much to my surprise, I walked out of the med spa with a tretinoin (Retin-A) prescription. So every other night I apply a solid layer of SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore Moisturizer* - which contains lots of good fats to supplement the skin barrier - and then apply just a pea-sized amount of the tretinoin. On nights when I’m not using the tretinoin, I’ll just stick with the Triple Lipid and maybe throw on the Sturm Hyaluronic underneath if I feel like I could use the extra hydration.

Tools

I’d read about super affordable high frequency machines on Into the Gloss several times before I decided I might as well try one out. The one I picked up was only $30 on Amazon, and it uses high frequency to oxygenate the skin, boost circulation (which helps push out toxins), and therefore increase cell renewal and the production of collagen and elastin. They can be used to treat active blemishes, tighten pores, decrease fine lines, and overall plump the skin. So multi-purpose and so worth it. The other tool I love is a gold bar facial massager - mine is from Wunder Wand, which seems to not be around anymore? Jillian Dempsey makes quite a pricey one, but there are definitely cheap versions available, I’ve even seen them at TJ Maxx. Anyway! The massager essentially vibrates and helps to push excess fluids out of your face and boost lymphatic drainage. It’s super relaxing to use, but also keeps my face from looking puffy.

Medications + Supplements

Besides the tretinoin prescription, I’ve also got prescription birth control and spironolactone working to hopefully reduce my hormonal acne. Spiro makes me thirsty like I just escaped the desert, but it’s worth it. I’ve also added a few supplements to my routine to hopefully get things more balanced internally as well. I just recently picked up The Beauty Chef Cleanse Powder after loving the Glow Powder’s results (Cleanse is meant to be better suited for acne). I also love 8Greens for getting in all of the greens I would not, or would not want to, eat daily. And last but not least, I’m taking Zinc internally too, which is meant to help with inflammatory acne.

Okay, if you made it all the way to the end, thanks for reading! I know this routine is a lot. And is really not necessarily the most feasible or affordable routine for everyone. Even I will likely end up trading out things like the Sturm serum for more affordable versions as time goes on. But the quest for clear skin continues! I will definitely keep you guys updated on my Retin-A journey!