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Aloha Shirt: Surf, Film and the Far Right Movement

Created in the 1930s by Japanese seamstresses, the Aloha Shirt was originally made from scraps of Kimono fabric. The first Hawaiian shirts were made from Yukata cotton, based on a "Palaka", a shirt worn on the island's plantations.

The tailor "Musa-Shiya the Shirtmaker" was the first to market these shirts. For a few cents, Musa-Shiya would make custom-made pieces from the fabric his customers brought him. The Hawaiian shirt began to be worn by students who after classes became "Beach Boys", the island's surf instructors. After World War II, wealthier Americans took advantage of the development of sea travel to flock to the island.

Fascinated by the lifestyle of the beach boys who taught them how to surf on the island, the Aloha Shirt became the souvenir to bring back from their Hawaiian holiday. In the United States, wearing an Aloha Shirt became a sign of wealth, but also of self-confidence and open-mindedness, as this piece went against the codes of masculinity at the time.

Worn by Elvis in 1961 on the cover of his album "Blue Hawai", the Aloha became a piece used to define free and independent characters. Tony Montana in Scarface, Romeo in Romeo+Juliet and Tyler Durden in Fight Club, all of these characters have the self-confidence to wear what they want. Their virility and courage are proven by their actions. Very colourful and close to the feminine dresses of the time, this light piece does not question their status.

In the United States, however, the Aloha Shirt has become a symbol of the extreme right. Linked to the "Bungaloo" movement, it is used as a rallying symbol on the basis of a racist private joke that originated on 4chan. For this reason, the original Aloha Shirt shape is partly shunned by brands. Wacko Maria, Soulland or Fuct rely on the spirit of the Aloha Shirt to develop prints that they use on Bowling Shirts. Its unstructured and more open collar makes it easier to wear.

© JASMINE DANIELS

In Paris, the skate crew @cinquiemeterrasse is organizing its first exhibition. Images captured between Paris, New York and Malaga are gathered in this place where the collective's first book is available. The exhibition is free and open until May 26 at La Montgolfière at 26 rue Yves Toudic.

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Cholo - The Sartorial Identity of Los Angeles.

Often affiliated with the Hispanic gangs of Los Angeles, the Cholo style is now represented all over the world. Dickies, Cortez and Pendleton shirts ... this is how we could summarize this aesthetic. However, the Cholo style is governed by codes that have evolved alongside the Mexican community in the USA.The contemporary Cholo style has its roots in the "Pachuco" style. The "Pachuco" was embodied by an active Latino community in Los Angeles in the 1930s. They met to dance swing and wore suits with very large pants: the "Zoot Suit". Reinterpreted in our time via workwear, the cholos use "Khakis" Dickies or Ben Davies 1 or 2 sizes too big to wear them high on the waist with a belt. The folds on the middle of the leg reproduce the aesthetics of the Zoot Suit pants. For some gangs, the standard is 1 pleat in the front and 3 pleats in the back, to form the number 13 in reference to MS-13 (Mara Salvatrucha). The jeans are starched so that they sit on the leg and do not wrinkle at the knees. Pleats similar to khakis are also ironed in.The Cholos place great importance on cleanliness in their clothing. An immaculate white shirt and an ironed chino are among the outward markers needed to be respected on the street. As in the 1930s, this respect is achieved through clean, well-cut clothes. This Cholo aesthetic has inspired other movements even beyond California's borders.In the 1970s, skateboarders like Tony Alva wore Dickies with Pendleton shirts and bandanas inspired by the West Coast Hispanic community. However, the Cholo style really took off in the world thanks to the explosion of California Rap in the late 80s. The members of N.W.A and in particular Eazy E took these codes and applied them to Gangsta Rap. Their imagery has largely contributed to the diffusion of this style in the world and in Japan where a Cholo community is concentrated today.Nowadays, independent brands continue to keep this Cholo clothing heritage alive. Born x Raised and Willy Chavaria each in their own way evolve the classic Los Angeles style by incorporating elements of sportswear.

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