Tomato tartare with chili mayo revisited via José Andrés’s Vegetables Unleashed, sort of.
Tomato tartare with chili mayo and potato chips
As someone who enjoys diving into a nice tartare at a restaurant (as well as making them at home), I’ll basically try anything once, including tomato tartare. This version was from a recipe I came across online, and while it was nice, I have to be honest and admit that I really haven’t made it since. It’s a great recipe if you can go to an awesome…
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It’s been years since I’ve made any socca--a chickpea flatbread made with a broiler, a cast-iron pan, and a dream--but when I had the thought of making some small plates last Friday for dinner after a lovely week in Miami and Miami Beach, it felt like a nice, light snack. Rebekah Peppler’s À Table has a great recipe with a suggested pairing with chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano and drizzled with an oil made with piment d'espelette, but I used Aleppo pepper instead because I have a lot of that in my spice drawer. I also treated myself to a chunk of the Herbes de Provence BellaVitano cheese, as it’s a Parmesan-cheddar hybrid and it’s my favorite American cheese brand. I’ve tried so many different iterations of this cheese, and they are all bangers with no skips.
Making the socca itself needs another go for me before this goes back on the main blog, but I’m determined to get better at this to make this something that I can show my nephews how to make for themselves (with parental supervision).
Practice makes perfect with recipes like this, and I definitely need some practice! But the results are fun to eat.
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On revisiting and revising my main fresh pasta dough recipe.
My pasta game has improved greatly.
Ever since I acquired Marc Vetri’s Mastering Pasta, I’ve largely relied on his basic nine-yolk dough recipe for my weekly pasta exploits. For a while I could get a dough that would yield to 454 grams (or a pound), but I started noticing about a year or so ago that I wasn’t getting that consistency anymore. This isn’t me trying to start some conspiracy theory,…
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Slowly roasting and/or drying tomatoes over several hours in a low oven is one of the best ways to make out-of-season tomatoes really tasty, and this tomato tartare that I adapted from Vegetables Unleashed by José Andrés (which is an adaptation of the tomato tartare from El Bulli) is going to be almost as good now as it will be in September or October because you add in other classic tartare ingredients to the tomatoes, including Worcestershire sauce and Savora mustard, which is basically Dijon mustard turned up to 11. (Like, if President Obama had called out this brand as his favorite, I’m pretty sure if he had name-checked this mustard, every head at Fox News would have exploded.)
Instead of an egg yolk in the center, I finished this with a nice dollop of sambal mayo and a sprinkling of pancetta cubes. The latter is very much a nice-to-have--I had a chunk of pancetta that needed to be used, but between the slow-dried tomatoes and all of the sauces that go into the tartare, the umami flavors will be absolutely intense.
Bread might be the traditional accompaniment, but I personally love some kettle-cooked potato chips myself.
Recipe coming next week on the blog!
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Over the last few months, I’ve been subtly tweaking my master pasta dough recipe--specifically for when I cut rolled pasta into strands. It’s heavily based on the original recipe I’ve used for years from Marc Vetri’s Mastering Pasta, but I’ve also incorporated some subsequent techniques from Evan Funke’s American Sfoglino and the Not Another Cooking Show channel on YouTube, which is a great one to follow if you love Italian food.
Instead of babbling on about it in a specific pasta recipe, I wanted to give it its own post to use as an easier reference point and to share my thought process on what ingredients I’m using these days to help achieve similar results.
Post launching tomorrow!
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This is the second time I’ve made this pizza, and after learning the lessons from my first attempt that I wasn’t really happy with, I’m feeling much better about this version. The issue was making the pistachio cream that is largely under the prosciutto but I also drizzled on top for both color and extra flavor: the first time I made it the consistency was too runny and I didn’t add any cheese, so this time I was very judicious with adding olive oil and added in some grated parm and the consistency was much better.
This all sits on a bed of more Parmigiano-Reggiano and some mozzarella di bufala cheese, both which tend to be easier on the stomach as the former has very little lactose thanks to the aging process and the latter is lactose-free.
More to come on this one soon.
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The addition of Pasta by Missy Robbins to my cookbook collection has been such a boon for my Sunday night pasta dishes, because her recipes are chock full of inspiration that push me to do some fun variations. This is trenette with sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, oregano, and saffron that needs some tweaking (they all do before they get published), but I’m really pleased with it because it’s light and tasty and there needs to be more dishes that call for saffron.
Granted, I specifically use American saffron, or safflower, because it’s significantly cheaper and therefore you can afford to use hefty pinches of it. It’s not nearly as good as Spanish or Iranian saffron, but for a dish like this, it works. I’m also absolutely on a pink peppercorn kick right now, and I absolutely love it in mascarpone cheese because it adds a lot of zest to an otherwise pretty mild cheese.
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The Rite of Spring, a tequila-rhubarb cocktail.
The Rite of Spring, posed with my rhubarb-print robe from IKEA that I got last year.
My original intention was to publish this last week, but then I woke up last Tuesday to the news that the Key Bridge here in Baltimore was destroyed due to a collision with a cargo ship, and it was all just so surreal and terrible that it felt really wrong to babble on about a cocktail in the immediate wake of…
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Something I’ve been resorting to when I don’t have a grand plan for a protein is that I’ll do two smaller dishes with protein, like getting a small pack of wings to roast them in the air-fryer. My husband and I riff on these all the time, and lately he’s been enjoying a mixture of salt, pepper, and black garlic seasoning, and this time we made our own sambal mayo to go with them.
The mayo is awesome (it’s inspired by the much-missed Num Pang chain), but we’re still working out a proper rub for this amount of wings as a simple appetizer, one that will include ground lemongrass because I feel like that would absolutely make these particular wings even better.
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I was going to post this cocktail recipe this week, and then the Key Bridge here in Baltimore collapsed in a tragic, disastrous accident, and it felt so damn awkward to try to write about both of them in the last few days? I also was dealing with an injury that made sitting and typing a literal pain in the ass, so my planned week of productivity was completely sidelined.
Anway, this recipe will be coming up this coming week, and I promise to have more recipes coming. I’ve been busy behind the scenes with some recipe development.
This one has tequila and rhubarb, and rhubarb is just coming into season so the timing is pretty perfect.
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I’m pretty excited with this pasta dish: linguini with pancetta, pecorino cheese, and pink peppercorns. It’s not cacio e pepe, but it’s inspired by some of the ingredients you find in both that dish and pasta alla gricia (though, to be clear, the original version of that dish uses guanciale and not pancetta). It’s been a comforting dish to dive into for lunchtime leftovers all week--look for the recipe soon.
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I’ve been spending the last few weeks testing some ideas for dishes, with the knowledge that they will need some tweaks before they officially end up on the blog. This lasagnette with mushrooms, miso, and Parmigiano-Reggiano is one of them: while I made this on the first day of DST, I didn’t finish it in time to get good-quality natural light photos on Sunday evening. When I tried to reheat and redo the photos later in the week, I lost the glossiness of the miso-butter sauce.
This needs a little more tweaking to get it right in any case--I want to bump up the heat from the Calabrian chiles, for one, because the spice wasn’t as present as I would like, so hopefully this will show up sooner rather than later because it was also really, really good.
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Turmeric-cumin cauliflower soup that’s perfect whether chilled or hot.
Turmeric-cumin cauliflower soup
Last September, I waxed poetic about this chilled cauliflower soup recipe from Giada De Laurentiis, and I declared that I would be making it frequently over the colder months as a way to enjoy cauliflower more frequently, with sometimes swapping out this beet gazpacho I first enjoyed at Jaleo in December. I’m pleased to say that I actually did keep this promise to…
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