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stregacorvina · 4 years

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Another Disney Princess!

Welcome back on my journal! <3 Sorry for the lack of updates recently but I took some days off finally! I get out of this quarantine way too tired and overwhelmed than throughout the actual quarantine, so I really needed some rest! Luckly, I started working at full speed again by the middle of June (thanks to all the people that scheduled photoshooting in the Summer!) so I had a lot of order to fullfill but also I worked kinda in a rush to ship everything out before August so I was very tired, phisically and mentally at the end of July... And actually this post was started in the end of July but never got the time to finish it so...

After some rest, today I wanna show you how I made the Princess Aurora Cosplay last year for the most famous italian convention Lucca Comics & Games (that is still taking place this year but with a lot of changes in the organizations and in the “events” due this well known virus that is still with us all.....)

This entry was kind of “requested” on my Etsy shop as an explanations to go with my Aurora pattern I sold recently so I hope that can also help everyone that is trying to make this costume!

Let’s start with the basic...

- Materials

For this costume I used very high quality materials, because she is a princess after all! I made the bodice with a light fucsia silk satin, interfaced with heavy canvas and lined with heavy satin to keep it sturdy; the collar is also in white heavy satin and the sleeves in sheer shiny organdy. For the skirt and the belt I used the same light satin of the bodice but in lighter colors and I also made a petticoat in satin lining and white lace.

As this convention takes place in Autumn the client also requested a cape to go with the dress and I made it with a fucsia/pink alcantara (fake suede) and white fake fur, along with a small purse to carry her belongings.

So, after discussing materials let go a bit dip in the

- Pattern

As I said, I have this pattern for sale in my Etsy shop (in a lot of different sizes and I also can make it for your custom measures) so I will not dig very deep into it but let’s talk about its parts. Bodice: according to the pictures is a 4 panels corset in the front as well in the back, with a V neckline on the front and several V shapes at the hem, at the front, at the back and on the sides. The sleeves are simple tubolar sleeves with a straight edge on the wrist and in the official pictures they do not seems made with sheer fabric but with the same fabric as the belt. The collar reminds me a lot of the Belle Ballgown collar, it is called Bertha collar and it is a flat and rounded collar that goes aroun the shoulders (If you want to know more about it you can check the definition on this page). Skirt: I considered the belt as a part of the skirt so I did not make a separated piece, but if you prefer you can also make two pieces. I did the belt based on the waist measurement and drew the pointed ends in the same places of the corset, but longer this time. As I attached this part to the skirt it closes with the same zipper of the skirt. For the skirt I did a very full circle skirt as it has very deep pleats in the front, sides and back. I did a little train in the back nothing too long because the conventions are always very crowded and it is not safe to have a long train (the total lenght of the skirt is about 110 cm and the center back is 140 cm) Jewels: Aurora has a neckpiece and a very cute tiara so I follow the original design and adjust the shapes to my client measures. As usually I used my favourite technique here: golden spandex and foam. Accessories: as I already mentioned for this cosplay I did a cape and a little purse and I will show them in the second part of this entry.

And now let’s start with the construction of

- The Bodice

I do not have pictures of the early stages of the construction but is very simple to build: I cut all the pattern pieces one time on the fashion fabric (the fucsia satin), one time in the interfacing fabric (the heavy canvas), one time on the heavy satin and one last time on the satin lining, for a total of 4 layers to put togheter! Well it is a corset after all...

In this picture above you can see the fucsia lining and the heavy satin (the pale pink one) that together are the lining layer of the corset. I marked the boning placement on the heavy satin with very long machine seams and then I sewn together the sturdy interfacing and this heavy satin to make the boning channels. The position of the boning was decided during the fitting with the client but you can place wherever you like accordin to your support needs.

This is the rough shape of the corset after the first fitting: you can see the alteration marked on the neckline and the final boning placement.

For the back we decided to avoid metal eyelets (as they are not so princessesque) and to go with ribbon lacing, so I marked the position of the loops and I used a soutache ribbon (heavier and stronger than normal cord) to make loops and the lacing.

Then I covered the loops ends with a matching satin ribbon and on the inside I put two different bones to strenghten this part.

This is the final result of the back closure! All the corset ends (except for the top edge) were finished with bias binding as you can see in this picture. This is a picture of the corset fully closed (my dress form is a little bit bigger than the girl so it seems very stretched XD)

To finish the corset I closed the sleeves and sewn them in the armholes. The sleeves are very simple sleeves sewn with a french seam and a simple rolled hem.

The last thing to do was attaching the white collar on the top egde, it is really simple as well: it is made with two layers of heavy white satin and one layer of sturdy interfacing inbetween. I inserted also two plastic boning in the side seams to help keep the point up. I incased the seam between the fashion layer of the corset and the lining, the edge along the sleeves was snipped to change the direction and finished with white bias binding then sewn with tiny handstiches turning upwards (to be hidden by the collar) Maybe it is a bit complicated to read but I am sure it will be very clear when you will do it yourself! I decide then to add a big snap button on the center back of the white collar to help also the client to put on the corset.

Finally, I sewn bias binding along the center back and the bottom edge to finish the corset.

I totally forgot to tell you about the modesty panel but it is really a short passage XD I made it with the same layers of the corset, it has 5 boning channels made sewing together the interfacing and the heavy satin layers and this time I decided to attach it with handstiches on the right side on the lining instead of leaving it stand alone as I usually do.

And this is the finished corset! (it looks a bit weird wthout actual arms inside XD)

And the corset ends part 1 of this entry, in the next one I will show you how I made the skirt and the accessories. Keep following my social media to be updated with my works and next entries! I post mainly on my Facebook page and my Instagram!

Have a nice day and thanks for stick around! See you next time!

Chiara (StregaCorvina)

Bentornati nel mio blog! <3 Eccoci di nuyovo con un aggiornamento dopo tanto tempo ma mi ero presa qualche giorno di vacanza finalmente! Sono uscita da questa quarantena molto più stanca e stressata che durante l’effettivo tempo di quarantena in casa, perciò avevo decisamente bisogno di riposare! Fortunatamente, ho ricominciato a cucire assiduamente già verso metà Giugno (grazie a tutte le persone che si sono organizzate per set fotografici in estate!) e ho avuto un sacco di ordini da terminare e spedire prima di Agosto perciò sono arrivata a fine Luglio esausta, fisicamente e mentalmente... In effetti ho iniziato a scrivere questo post a metà Luglio ma non ho mai trovato il tempo di terminarlo...

Dopo un po di riposo, oggi voglio farvi vedere come ho realizzato il cosplay della Principessa Aurora, fatto l’anno scorso per una delle convention italiane più famose, il Lucca Comics & Games (che si terrà anche quest anno nonostante numerosi cambiamenti all’organizziazione e agli eventi, per via di questo caro virus che ormai ci accompagna da un pò...)

Questo post è stato più o meno “richiesto” sul mio negozio Etsy per accompagnare il cartamodello del cosplay che ho venduto recentemente, perciò spero che possa aiutare anche chi prova a fare questo abito!

Iniziamo dalle basi...

- I Materiali

Per questo abito ho usato materiali di qualità molto alta, del resto è pur sempre una principessa! Ho fatto il corpino con un raso di seta fucsia abbastanza leggero, irrigidito con una tela all’interno, uno strato di raso più pesante come interfodera e infine una fodera di raso; anche la scollatura è fatta in raso pesante bianco e le maniche in organza rosa brillante. Per la gonna e la cintura ho usato lo stesso tipo di raso del corpino ma in tonalità di fucsia/rosa diverse. Infine ho realizzato una sottogonna in fodera di raso bianco con bordo in pizzo.

Siccome il Lucca Comics si tiene in Autunno la ragazza mi ha richiesto anche un mantello da abbinare all’abito che ho realizzato in alcantara (finto scamosciato) fucsia e eco-pelliccia bianca, inoltre ho aggiunto anche una borsetta a secchiello per aiutarla a portare i suoi effetti personali in giro per la fiera.

E ora, dopo aver parlato di materiali, iniziamo ad approfondire

- Il Cartamodello

Come ho gia detto, potete acquistare questo cartamodello nel mio negozio Etsy (è disponibile in tante taglie diverse ma posso realizzarlo anche sulle vostre misure) perciò non approfondirò più di tanto la costuzione, ma andiamo comunque a vedere i vari componenti. Corpino: guardando le immagini ufficiali, si tratta di un corsetto a 4 telini per il davanti e altrettanti per il dietro, con uno scollo a V davanti e numerose forme a V sull’orlo, davanti, dietro e sui fianchi. Le maniche sono delle semplici maniche tubolari con un orlo dritto sul posto e nelle immagini non sembrano realizzate in materiali trasparenti quanto piuttosto nello stesso materiale della cinutura. La scollatura mi ricorda molto quella dell’abito oro di Belle, si chiama “Bertha collar“ e per sempliicare è un colletto piatto e tondo che copre anche le spalle (se volete approfondire vi consiglio questo link). Gonna: ho considerato la cintura come parte della gonna perciò le ho unite sul punto vita, ma se preferite potete anche fare due pezzi. Ho costruito la cintura basandomi sulla circonferenza vita e ho disegnato le punte a V negli stessi punti del bustino ma più lunghe questa volta (circa 18 cm se non ricordo male). Siccome io ho realizzato un pezzo unico con la gonna, si chiude con la cerniera nel centro dietro. Per la gonna invece ho fatto una gonna a ruota intera molto ampia, circa 2 volte e mezza la circonferenza della vita visto che ha delle pieghe molto profonde davanti, dietro e sui fianchi. Ho fatto un piccolo strascico dietro ma non troppo lungo perchè nelle fiere affollate potrebbe essere pericoloso avere uno strascico lungo (la lunghezza totale della gonna è circa 110 cm e nel centro dietro di circa 140 cm) Gioielli: Aurora ha una collana e una tiara molto carina perciò ho semplicemente seguito il design originale adattandolo alle misure della ragazza. Come al solito li ho realizzati nella mia tecnica preferita: lycra oro e anima in foam! Accessori: come ho già detto ho completato il cosplay con un mantello e una borsetta, che sicuramente vi farò vedere nella seconda parte di questo post.

E ora inziamo con la costruzione del

- Il corpino

Non ho fatto molte foto nelle fasi iniziali di costruzione ma è motlo semplice da assemblare: ho tagliato tutti i pezzi del cartamodello una volta sullo strato esterno (il raso di seta fucsia), una volta sulla tela di sostegno (un cotone pesante), una volta sull’interfodera di raso pesante e per ultima una volta sulla fodera di raso vera e propria. Un totale di 4 strati da assemblare insieme! Del resto è sempre un corsetto...

Nella foto qui sopra vedete la fodera di raso (fucsia) e l’interfodera in raso pesante (rosa cipria) che insieme formano lo strato di fodera del corpetto. Ho segnato con delle lunghe cuciture a macchina sullo strato di interfodera la posizione dei canali per le stecche di sostegno, e ho creato questi canali cucendo insieme la tela di sostegno e l’interfodera. La posizione delle stecche ha seguito più o meno la posizione iniziale che avevo segnato il cartamodello, con qualche piccola modifica nell’area seno dopo il fitting con la ragazza, in realtà potete posizionarle dove volete in base alle vostre esigente di supporto e sostegno.

Ed ecco la prima forma del corsetto dopo il primo fitting, come potete vedere in alto si notano le modifiche da fare sulla scollatura ed essendo girato dal lato della fodera si vedono anche le posizioni finali delle stecche.

Per il dietro abbiamo deciso di non usare degli occhielli metallici (che non sono proprio così “principeschi”) ma di usare un’allacciautura con nastri ed asole; ho segnato la posizione di ogni asola e poi le ho realizzate con una fettuccia da soutache (molto più dura e resistente di un normale cordoncino).

Per chiudere e nascondere bene la fine degli occhielli ho applicato sopra un nastro di raso in tinta e nella parte interna ho sfruttato le cuciture del nastro per creare altri canali per le stecche.

Ed ecco il risultato finale della corsettatura! Tutti i bordi, tranne quello in alto, sono stati riginiti con uno sbiego di raso in tinta che potete vedere nelle immagini qui sotto (il manichino è leggermente più grande della ragazza perciò la corsettatura tira un pò più del dovuto)

Per terminare il corsetto sono passata alle maniche! Le ho assemblate con una cucitura francese (o all’inglese, come siete più familiari) e un semplice orlo arrotolato in fondo, poi le ho inserite nel giromanica.

L’ultimo passaggio riguarda la scollatura in alto. Anche questo è molto semplice, realizzato con due strati di raso bianco pesante e una tela di sostegno all’interno, ho inserito anche due stecche di plastica nelle cuciture laterali per aiutare la parte a punta a restare in alto. Ho nascosto la cucitura della scollatura fra la stoffa del corpetto e la fodera in modo che restasse nascosta, invece per le maniche ho tagliato il margine in corrispondenza della parte trasparente, l’ho bordato con dello sbiego bianco e l’ho cucito verso l’alto con dei punti a mano per nasconderlo sulla parte bianca. A parole forse è un pò complicato ma vi assicuro che se lo farete capirete subito di cosa sto parlando Infine ho deciso di applicare sul collare un grande automatico (anche se non era necessario ai fini del collare stesso) per aiutare la ragazza ad indossare il bustino da sola.

In ultimo ,ho bordato tutti i margini ancora da rifinire (i centri dietro e l’orlo in basso) con dello sbiego di raso, attaccato a macchina dritto contro dritto e poi cucito a mano all’interno.

Mi sono resa conto di non aver minimamente menzionato il modesty panel ma in realtà non c’è molto da dire XD L’ho realizzato con gli stessi passaggi del resto del corsetto, all’interno ha 5 stecche inserite in canali realizzati cucendo insieme i vari strati del corsetto e poi ho preferito fermarlo con dei punti a mano sul lato destro del corsetto invece di lasciarlo separato come di solito si usa fare.

Ed ecco il corsetto finito! (Purtroppo le maniche sono un pò cadenti senza delle vere braccia dentro XD)

Con il corsetto chiudiamo qui la parte 1 di questo post, nella prossima vi farò vedere la gonna e gli accessori.

Continuate a seguirmi sui Social per maggiori aggiornamenti sui miei lavori e le novità su cui lavorerò possimamente, soprattutto sulla mia pagina Facebook e su Instagram!

Buona giornata a tutti e grazie a chi continua a seguirmi assiduamente! Alla prosima!

Chiara (StregaCorvina)

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imagine-loki · 7 years

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Wedded Bliss

TITLE: Wedded Bliss CHAPTER NO./ONE SHOT: Chapter 8 AUTHOR: MaliceManaged ORIGINAL IMAGINE: Imagine Odin determined to find Loki a wife in a misguided, though somewhat well-intentioned attempt to ‘mellow him’. … RATING: T NOTES/WARNINGS: Here, have some backstory that took me three freaking hours to write. XD

_______________________

“Here’s an idea: From now on, you talk to Frigga,” Edith suggested once the queen had left them in her room, having been called away for some matter that required her immediate attention, “She’s your mother; she’s not going to hate you.”

Loki breathed a laugh. “She doesn’t hate you. She doesn’t much like you so far, but she doesn’t hate you.”

“Why is everyone so shocked I’m not going along with your dad’s plans? I’m a person, not an object you can just pick up and take home with you!”

“I think they just expected you to be honoured,” Loki replied, walking over to the bed and sitting down, propping himself up on his hands, “You would, after all, be marrying into the royal family. Do you know how many would kill to be in your place?”

“Well, they can have it!” Edith cried, sitting next to him and letting herself fall onto her back.

“I’d rather they didn’t; you at least I can plan a way out of this with.”

Edith let out a heavy sigh. “Sorry; it’s just… frustrating. I’ve always been able to do what I wanted, more or less within reason.”

“Even when your mother insisted on singing lessons?” Loki asked, earning a surprised look he shrugged at. “Your friend, Tony Stark, mentioned it.”

“Oh.” That made sense. “I like singing, actually; the insistence was because I had the worst stage fright and she wanted me to get past it if I could. And I did.”

He hummed in understanding. “For what it’s worth; you have a lovely voice.”

“I know,” She replied simply.

“And the humility to go with it, I see,” He said amusedly.

She grinned. “Modesty’s never been one of my virtues; no sense in pretending it is.”

Loki laughed. “In that case; you and I will get along wonderfully.”

****

Frigga walked up to the balcony of her and her husband’s hall where he stood, looking out at the view of the city it offered. “You have regrets.”

It was not a question. He sighed and nodded all the same.

“You wanted his match; we don’t get to decide what that is.”

“I should have just chosen someone for him myself.”

Frigga chuckled lightly. “And then he would have made you regret it.”

“She will not calm him.”

“No; likely not.” She placed a hand on Odin’s shoulder. “But she will make him happy, and that just might.”

Odin huffed. “They would have to cease planning on ways to escape the wedding day for that.”

“Perhaps…” Frigga said with a knowing smile.

Odin gave her a questioning look but she did not elaborate, merely kissed his cheek and walked away, leaving him wondering just what she knew.

****

Had things gone the way he’d intended, there would have been a feast to welcome the future princess; as it was, Odin thought it might be best for dinner to be a private affair, at least until he could be sure it wouldn’t end in total disaster. Judging by the disappointed expression on Loki’s face that he attempted to disguise as boredom, the king decided he’d made the right call. At his son’s side, Edith looked about the room curiously before the food was brought out, which she dove into with gusto after a taste test proved it favourable.

“Well, you’re certainly not lacking for appetite,” Thor laughed as he watched her.

Edith paused, swallowed her mouthful, and shrugged. “After you’ve been stuck behind enemy lines for a few days; you learn not to let a chance to eat go to waste.”

“Oh? You are a warrior?” Frigga asked interestedly.

“Kind of? I mean, I do know how to fight, but mostly I just make things blow up, really.”

“Quite gladly, mind,” Loki added.

“We all have our hobbies,” Edith joked.

“Some hobby,” Thor commented. “But you say you’ve been captured by enemies?”

She shook her head. “Not really ‘captured’, per se. I went into this lab - they were testing a biological weapon on a town nearby - and I was supposed to shut it down. It was going great; until some idiot in an aircraft got themself shot down on the only way out of the place in some dumbass attempt to do my freaking job,” She explained irritably. “I spent four days constantly moving to avoid detection until Natasha could come get me out.”

“Why not just blow your way out?” Thor asked.

“Because this was before I was trusted with that kind of firepower,” Edith replied with a roll of her eyes. She thought for a moment. “Actually, after that Tony gave me a whole bunch of new toys, so that was probably why.”

“These people; they are your family?” Frigga asked.

“In a way,” Edith replied with a fond smile. “I’ve known Tony since I was kid. My mom’s company did a lot of business with his, and he took over as my legal guardian when she died, since I was technically underage. And Nat took one look at me and decided I needed to learn how to fight, ostensibly for self-defence, but I’m pretty sure she knew I was going to end up following them into battle eventually.”

“And what of your father?”

“Never met him; he died before I was born.”

“My sympathies. You’ve no other family, then?”

Edith shrugged. “Not as far as I know. At least not on my dad’s side; I still have relatives on my mom’s side, but she wasn’t on good terms with them, so I never met them, and nobody reached out to me after she died so I just left it at that.”

“Fair enough.”

The rest of the meal passed with little in the way of conversation and afterwards Loki escorted Edith back to her room to retire for the night at his parents’ ‘suggestion’. Part of him was annoyed that they were so obviously trying to change his mind about their betrothal by making them spend time together, but he couldn’t say he disliked her company altogether. In fact, he rather enjoyed it so far…

… Damn, He thought as the thought struck him, faltering in his steps slightly.

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