Accidental mistranslation, and a quick reappearance of Michel, my gremlin student from noble bell college

20/12/19 Accidental fish in Shibuya

Yesterday wasn't our finest day of the trip. We said goodbye to the lovely Steph and Phil (who drove us to Hirafu in the morning) and caught a bus over to New Chitose Airport.  Checked in and had a nice time being given free samples in the food court- cake and cheesecake and steamed donut. We bought something that looked like a croquette and was labelled as cheese but turned out to be a fishcake yuck. Flew to Tokyo Narita and were surprisingly efficient getting out of the airport and on to a bus to the city centre. Had a fair walk from Tokyo station to the Wise Owl Hostel, and struggled a bit under the weight of our bags that we've happily avoided hauling around for two weeks. 

The hostel (where we are staying until boxing day) is a good one, with a live owl in reception, a free drink in the bar downstairs every night, and pleasingly private upstairs bunks where we can talk to each other but are screened from everyone else.

By this time it was approaching 5pm and we had only had some toast and some accidental fish, so we head out to the neighbouring area of Ningyocho in search of food. We popped in to Suitengu shrine which was quiet and pleasant, we felt a little awkward not knowing any shrine etiquette but didn't get shouted at or thrown out so I guess it was all ok. We walked around for ages trying to decipher food menus - hardly any had English translations and those that did didn't have any prices. We settled on a café that had a menu handwritten in English but no prices, and tried in vain to match the Hiragana characters with the real menu. Joey ended up with stir fried vegetables and Sam with the smallest chicken wings ever. Not terrible, but not enough food given how hungry we were and way more expensive than we'd have liked. Most of the place was taken up with a very exuberant office party which was entertaining.

We left feeling still hungry and walked home a different way keeping our eyes peeled for takeaway pizza to top us up. No luck until a bar/restaurant just round the corner from the hostel where we smugly shared a tasty pizza. Were feeling well fed and happy until we asked for the bill and there was a hidden service charge that amounted to more than the actual pizza. Have made a mental note to check for charges everywhere we go from now on. Feeling grumpy and at odds with Tokyo, we sidled back to the hostel and hid from the world.

Today, Tokyo has redeemed itself! We've spent the day exploring Shibuya, Harajuku and Shinjuku, filling up on sights, Japanese culture and food. 

First thing we took a Ginza line subway to Shibuya - we've bought a 72 hour pass that works on the main subway and metro lines, but not the JR or other privately owned lines. It's all a bit confusing. Luckily they say the station names in English and all the stops are numbered so navigating the lines isn't toooo difficult. The tricky bit is emerging from the right station exit and working out where on earth you want to be on the surface. Every subway station seems to be a maze of underground tunnels.

Luckily this time our platform was right by the Tokyu department store entrance, so we headed to the basement foodcourt in search of breakfast. We were disappointed by the lack of free samples promised to us by the guidebook, but found an enticing bakery and bought a huge warm sweet walnut bread. We found our way the surface and sat on the side of the street looking out over the Shibuya pedestrian scramble, the famous junction crisscrossed by up to several thousand people in each wave. We saw a fleet of Mario style go-karts go by on their Tokyo tour. Nearby we visited the statue of Hachiko, the faithful dog who waited every day for his master at Shibuya station, even nine years after the man's death. We had a little wander up Center-gai shopping street, and then over to the new and shiny Hikarie department store. We browsed the many floors of homewares and handbags up to an exhibition space on the top floor. This housed an unexpected display of puppets, as well as some slightly scary craft pop up stores. Back down in the basement, we were yet again denied any free tasters in the foodcourt.

Time was marching on so we hopped on a subway up to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building west of Shinjuku. We visited the observation deck on the 45th floor and a volunteer guide showed us the sights. It was a clear sunny day so we had great views of the city, but unfortunately Mt Fuji was hiding in a wreath of cloud. The gift shop had our names in Japanese characters. Back down on the second floor we're pleased to see climbing and surfing are now Olympic sports but sad squash still isn't.

Walked back to Shinjuku. It's weird how much walking is in underground tunnels, we intended to walk at street level but kept somehow finding ourselves underground again. Had lunch at burger bar round the corner from the Robot Café, which has a cool looking evening show but way too expensive for us. We soaked up the bright lights and buzzing atmosphere of Shinjuku, visited a games arcade with a Star Wars game that had enough controls to be a spaceship, and checked 7 storey electronics stores for fitbit and camera accessories (with no luck). 

Next we walked down to Meiji temple through a large quiet forested area, quite a contrast from the city beyond. We read some prayers on the prayer wall, watched someone important bang on a big drum, and browsed the amulets available for sale. The matrimonial bliss amulet was expensive so we'll just have to hope we find it anyway. You can buy "divine protection” available at three different levels, reminiscent of budget insurance deals. 

Walking out of Meiji towards the south we reached Harajuku, an area known for youth fashion, cosplay, anime, clothing brands of varying expense and second hand shops. By this point it was dark and the avenues of trees at the side of the road were illuminated with zillions of Christmas lights. We visited Condomania (a speciality condom shop, of course), a very extravagant costume shop that was peppered with "no photos” signs, and a thrift shop selling battered old Levis for literally thousands of pounds. 

At the train station on the way back to Shinjuku we were offered a free sample of some sort of biscuit/cake that was actually dried fish. We now appreciate the need to always carry some chocolate in case a post-accidental-fish-cleanse is needed. We went to the Hanazono shrine all lit up for the evening, and then wandered round some of the famous nightlife areas...

The Golden Gai is an area of hundred of tiny bars, mostly only big enough for 3 or four guests. Between the high service charges, the lack of English translations, and the intimidating well dressed men (likely Yakuza) hanging about, we kept ourselves outside and just enjoyed the ramshackle streets. 

Kabuchiko is a somewhat seedy area, with bars having pictures of girls outside as if on a menu, and plenty of "love hotels” offering rooms to rent by the hour or the night.

Omoide Yokocho (aka piss alley from the days before they installed public toilets) was reminiscent of the Golden Gai with tiny establishments and crisscrossing alleyways, but here every bar was grilling skewers of chicken or fish to serve with their sake. It made for a smoky atmosphere bubbling with chatter and calls inviting tourists in to pay the no doubt huge charges. Another great place to wander round while staying safely outdoors. 

We caught the subway back to Shibuya where we started the day, and queued up for seats at a conveyor-belt sushi bar called Uobei. We ordered bits and pieces off our respective ipads and it swooped up in front of us. Very exciting and there were even some veggie plates, although Joey had to scrape some cod roe off an udon dish. Sam was slurping up sashimi like a pro, and we finished the meal with tasty pineapple slices. Went to take a few more photos of the pedestrian scramble, then headed for home and a free sake in the hostel bar.