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Finding the Sweet Spot: How Luminance Affects Lighted Sign Legibility

Synthesizing findings from the Interdisciplinary Journal of SIgnage, ISA, and United States Sign Council, today’s post explains how to find the perfect luminance level for your custom lighted signs.

Read on or call 1-248-965-5946 to start a free lighted sign consultation in Southfield, MI.

How Luminance Affects Lighted Sign Visibility In Southfield, MI

If lighted signs are not set at the appropriate light level for the given ambient brightness (i.e. the level of light around the sign), the message will appear either too dim, in which case it will be difficult to detect, or it will be too bright, reducing legibility through overflow or blooming of the sign copy.

For best results, Southfield businesses need to find the sweet spot, that perfect level of luminance that draws the eye without blurring the message or causing any visual discomfort for the viewer.

To determine the optimal luminance for your specific lighted sign product, call 1-248-965-5946 to start a free lighted sign consultation.

For more general luminance guidelines, read on for a review of some key research findings from the Interdisciplinary Journal of Signage and Wayfinding, the International Sign Association (ISA), and the United States Sign Council Foundation (USSCF).

What Is The Best Brightness Level For Lighted Signs In Southfield, MI?

In a 2016 report titled “Night-Time Brightness Level Recommendations for On-Premise Electronic Message Centers,” ISA researchers recommended that lighted signs should not exceed 0.3 footcandles over ambient lighting conditions when measured at these recommended distances:

The sweet spot changes depending on the time of day. One report by the USSCF recommends a 50 percent voltage reduction from daytime to nighttime conditions, while others suggest that at night signs should be dimmed to 20 percent of daytime brightness (Garvey, 2015, p. 3)

The sweet spot changes depending on lighted sign size. For small lighted signs (e.g. billboard dimensions of 11 x 22 ft, Garvey (2015) recommenders 300 candela per square metre (cd/m2), whereas very large signs (e.g. 20 x 60 ft) should have approximately 330 candela per square meter.

For more help understanding luminance levels, get in touch with our team using the contact information listed below.

Book A Free Lighted Sign Consultation In Southfield, MI

Ready to light up your brand message or storefront sign in Southfield, Michigan? We’re standing by to help.

SignScapes is a leading provider of lighted sign solutions for businesses of all sizes throughout Southfield and all the surrounding areas, including:

Rochester

Dearborn

Clawson

Royal Oak

Sterling Heights

Novi

Auburn Hills, and beyond

We also offer remote collaborations and lighted sign deliveries nationwide for clients located outside of Michigan.

Call 1-248-965-5946 or visit the SignScapes website to book a free consultation and get a same-day quote on any custom lighted sign order.

References

Garvey, P. M. (2015). PHASE 1: On-Premise Electronic Message Center (EMC) Nighttime Dimming Research Review and State of the Practice Industry Survey.

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How To Grow Baltic Blue Pothos? (The Ultimate Guide For Epipremnum pinnatum Baltic Blue)

If you are a fan of indoor plants that mature quickly and need little attention, this particular pothos variety is an absolute must. Both the Baltic Blue Pothos (Epipremnum pinnatum) and Cebu Blue Pothos have comparable characteristics. However, the Cebu Blue Pothos has leaves that are a somewhat lighter shade of green and grow fenestrations, also known as lobes, on its leaves much later than these. This indoor vine requires very little maintenance; just water it when the soil becomes dry and place it in a brightly lighted area that receives indirect sunlight. When you see the appearance of new leaves on this fast-growing plant, it is imperative that you promptly apply fertilizer. You might try staking your Epipremnum pinnatum in the hope that it would assist the leaves in developing lobes and growing in size. If consumed, this plant will cause severe illness. Keep a safe distance from both animals and children. Additionally, it has the potential to irritate the skin.

Baltic Blue Pothos

Pothos Baltic Blue Plant Characteristics

The Baltic Pothos is a pothos plant with broad, emerald-colored leaves. As the leaves age, they take on a bluish cast, which is most noticeable in the autumn and winter months. The fact that the leaves of this plant swiftly grow fenestrations, which are splits in the leaf, might be the most fantastic feature of this plant. In contrast to the "window" type fenestrations of the Swiss cheese plant, these fenestrations are more like cracks in the leaf. In addition to the fact that it is very hard to kill pothos plants, one of the most incredible things about them is that they come in such a wide variety of subspecies and that they develop very quickly. The pothos plant is an excellent choice for you if you want to create the feel of a lush tropical forest in a room with low light levels. Seriously.

Soil requirements

The Epipremnum Baltic Blue does best when grown in potting soil that may be purchased commercially. Because the roots of this plant are like a generally dry climate, you should choose components of the soil with the proper moisture retention qualities. You may make your own soil combination by combining peat moss, perlite, and coco coir. Root rot and other diseases may be avoided by ensuring enough drainage. To improve the aeration of your soil, you may want to consider putting coarse and granular material into it.

Light requirements

The Baltic Blue Pothos is able to flourish in a variety of light environments. It thrives in conditions ranging from medium to high light, ideally. (During most of the day, this kind of light casts a shadow that is somewhere from moderate to significant.) The leaves will become green rather than blue when exposed to too intense light. Our Plant Hunter recommends cultivating it no farther than three to four feet away from an unobstructed east- or west-facing window, where it will get a light intensity of at least sixty footcandles. On the other hand, if you put this plant in a window that faces north, it should flourish well. You should be aware of how much light is coming in if you put it in a window that faces east because it will be very bright. The location may be suitable in the autumn, spring, and winter months, but during the summer months, even being indoors may be uncomfortable due to the sun's intensity. Because exposure to direct light can cause damage to plant foliage, it is essential to ensure that you are in the shade whenever you take plants outside during the spring and summer months. If you have no choice but to place it in an area that is illuminated by direct sunlight, the morning hours offer the best lighting conditions for doing so. You shouldn't miss this video to learn about Baltic blue pothos care: https://www.youtube.com/embed/c1sO4y8EGhQ

How To Grow Baltic Blue Pothos

Growing Baltic Blue Pothos is a simple and enjoyable process. If you want to develop a broader growth habit or recycle stem cuttings from previous pruning, propagation is an excellent option. As a result of the difficulty in acquiring these plants, propagation is an excellent method for creating new plants that may be given to family, friends, or other people who have a passion for plants. There are two different ways to propagate Baltic blue pothos: In Sphagnum moss or water. Growing in water

Make sure your pruning shears or scissors are sharp before you attempt to take cuttings from your plant. Check that each stem cutting has at least five to six leaves before using it. Take off two or three of the lowest leaves the new cuttings so you can see the nodes farther up the stem. Put the cuttings of the stem in water, being sure to submerge any exposed nodes while allowing the remaining leaves to stay above the surface. Every week, the water should be replaced in order to maintain its quality. In around two to three weeks, the roots should start to develop. After the roots on the cuttings have grown to a length of at least one to two inches, they may be planted in soil. Put the potting mix in a tiny pot with good drainage, and then add a little water to the soil. Place the cuttings that have taken root in the container, and then set the container in an area that is exposed to indirect light that ranges from mild to bright. After allowing the roots to adjust for one to two weeks by maintaining an equal moisture level in the soil, you should then go back to your typical watering routine. In around two weeks, you should start noticing the roots' development. Before putting the plants into the soil, it's best to let them root for approximately two months or until their roots are about one to three inches in length. Growing in sphagnum moss

- Put your sphagnum moss in a basin and cover it with water. Let it soak for ten to fifteen minutes before you begin. - During the time that the moss is soaking, you should use a pair of sharp pruning shears or scissors to remove cuttings off your plant. Check that each stem cutting has at least five to six leaves before using it. - Take two or three of the lowest leaves off of the new cuttings so that you can see the nodes farther up the stem. - After the water from the sphagnum moss has been drained and the moss has been squeezed to remove any remaining moisture, put the moss in a small container or pot (clear plastic pots are great for this). - When inserting the new cuttings into the sphagnum moss, take care to ensure that the moss completely covers any exposed nodes but that the leaves of the cuttings remain open to the air. - If you want to assist boost the humidity surrounding the moss, cover the pot or container with a plastic bag that can be sealed back up again, but make sure the leaves are not contained inside the bag. - By spraying the moss once per week, you may ensure that it remains uniformly damp (but not soaked). After around two to three weeks, the roots should start to develop. Resist the temptation to check on the roots too soon in order to keep from doing any damage to them. - After the roots have grown to a length of at least one to two inches, you may start inserting the cuttings into the soil. Remove the cuttings from the sphagnum moss in a careful manner. Because the roots are so sensitive, you shouldn't worry too much about pulling any moss off that could be attached to them. Any moss that is still there after the new soil mixture has been created will be incorporated into it. - Put the potting mix in a tiny pot that has good drainage, and then add a little bit of water to the soil. - Place the cuttings that have taken root in the container, and then set the container in an area that is exposed to indirect light that ranges from mild to bright. - After allowing the roots to adjust for one to two weeks by maintaining an equal moisture level in the soil, you should then go back to your typical watering routine.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing is a crucial step for baltic blue pothos care. In the same way as other houseplants, the Baltic Blue pothos thrives when fed twice annually or more often every six months. Utilize a fertilizer explicitly designed for houseplants or plants kept in containers. Always be sure to follow the instructions provided in the product's box. If you want your plant to develop at a quicker rate, you should fertilize it more often. Never apply more fertilizer (either in terms of amount or frequency) than what is recommended on the product's container. This goes for both the quantity and the frequency of application.

Pruning

Baltic Blue pothos starts to develop into a vine as it ages, and it is possible to show it as a hanging plant or to train it to climb up a peat post. If you want to preserve your Baltic Blue pothos in a more compact form, just pinch back any new growth as it appears. This will encourage the plant to branch out and become denser. At any point throughout the year, you don't have to worry about the plant being harmed if you pinch or clip it.

Repotting

The roots of your Baltic Blue Pothos will have more space to expand if you repot it into a bigger container. When it is time to repot a plant, you will often see roots sprouting through the drainage holes in the existing container. In general, tropical plants need to have their pots changed around once per year. It is highly recommended that, before filling the new pot, the old, nutrient-deficient soil be removed and replaced with a fresh batch of ordinary commercial potting soil.

Humidity & Temperature Requirements

Temperatures in the home ranging from 60 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for the growth of all types of pothos, including the Baltic Blue Pothos. If you reside in an area with a moderate climate and want to keep your pothos outdoors, you shouldn't do so if the temperature drops below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Pothos are tropical plants that do not grow well when exposed to temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Baltic Blue Pothos Pest and Diseases

It would be best if you were on the lookout for common pests that might infest houseplants since Baltic Blue Pothos is vulnerable to getting them. Mealybugs and scale are two types of sap-feeding pests that, over time, may cause harm to the plant's leaves. They both leave behind a sticky residue on the leaves and stem of a plant, which is one of the first indicators that you are dealing with an infestation of some kind. Pothos plants are known to attract fungus gnats because of the damp soil that they grow in, which is another frequent insect that attacks houseplants. These flying pests deposit their eggs in the ground, and the larvae that hatch from those eggs feed on the plant's root system.

Baltic Blue Pothos - FAQ

Are Cebu blue and Baltic blue The Same?Baltic Blue Pothos is closely linked to Cebu Blue Pothos (Epipremnum pinnatum 'Cebu Blue') despite being a separate species. Darker and earlier-fenestrating leaves are characteristic of Baltic Blue. The flora in Cebu Blue has a significantly more pronounced silvery blue hue.Do Baltic blue pothos climb?Like all other varieties of pothos, the Baltic blue pothos is a vining epiphyte that naturally climbs trees and other big plants in its natural habitat. It is possible to cultivate young Baltic blue pothos effectively in hanging pots, but mature plants are aggressive climbers and need support from a pole or trellis in order to survive.Why is it called Baltic blue pothos?The Baltic Pothos is a kind of pothos plant that has broad, emerald-colored leaves. As the leaves age, they take on a bluish cast, which is most noticeable in the autumn and winter months.Why does my Baltic blue pothos have yellow leaves?Yellow leaves may be caused by a variety of various issues, ranging from an excess of light to being underwatered to a deficiency in humidity in the air. It is important to do an analysis of the specific growth conditions of your plant in order to determine the underlying reason for the yellowing of the leaves.What temp can pothos tolerate?Maintaining this plant at temperatures ranging from 60 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (15 to 29 degrees Celsius) throughout the year will ensure that it remains in the best possible health. It can survive brief exposure to temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius), but temperatures lower than that will kill the plant. Read the full article

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Goethe's final words: "More light."

Ever since we crawled out of that primordial slime, that's been our unifying cry: "More light."

Sunlight. Torchlight. Candlight. Neon. Incandescent.

Lights that banish the darkness from our caves, to illuminate our roads, the insides of our refrigerators. Big floods for the night games at Soldier's field.

Little tiny flashlight for those books we read under the covers when we're supposed to be asleep.

Light is more than watts and footcandles. Light is metaphor.

Thy word is a lamp unto my feet.

Rage, rage against the dying of the light.

Lead, Kindly Light, amid the encircling gloom Lead Thou me on!

The night is dark, and I am far from home

- Lead Thou me on!

Arise, shine, for thy light has come.

Light is knowledge. Light is life. Light is light.

.

.

Las últimas palabras de Goethe: ‘¡más luz!’.

Desde que salimos del primitivo barro ese ha sido nuestro constante grito: ¡más luz!.

Luz del sol, de antorcha, de vela, de neón. Incandescentes.

Luces que erradican la oscuridad de nuestras cavernas, que iluminan nuestras carreteras, los interiores de nuestras neveras. Grandes luces para los juegos nocturnos del campo de batalla,

pequeñas bombillas para esos libros que leemos debajo de las sábanas cuando deberíamos estar dormidos.

La luz es algo más que watios y velas, la luz es una metáfora.

Tu palabra es una lámpara bajo mis pies.

Ira, ira contra la muerte de la luz.

Guía la brillante luz a través de la oscuridad circundante, guíame tú para seguir.

La noche es oscura y estoy lejos de casa.

Guíame tú para seguir…

Despierta y brilla, porque tu luz está aquí.

La luz es conocimiento, la luz es vida, la luz es luz.

.

.

Chris Stevens "Northern Exposure" "Doctor en Alaska"

(👵🥳🧐)

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Lighting Solutions For Aging Eyes

As the human body gets more established, numerous physical and functional changes happen inside it. A ton of these progressions include a diminished capacity to perform undertakings that once appeared to be essential. One fundamental capacity that diminishes as an individual ages is their vision. Since most individuals depend on their capacity to see throughout their whole lives, it tends to be very demoralizing when this significant sense no longer proceeds as it once did. As the natural eye ages, its cornea becomes cloudy and the focal point starts to retain all the more light. Stores in both the cornea and the focal point cause an increment in light dispersing inside the eye, making it hard for an individual to this website distinguish objects. In addition to a diminished capacity to zero in on an item, one's capacity to conform to various degrees of light is compromised.

Broad exploration keeps on being led to unfurl the science behind relapse of the eye's functionality with age. Lighting industry pioneers have paid heed to significant discoveries in regards to the job of lighting in vision upgrade, and accordingly have delivered product offerings specifically intended to create the sort of light that balances a portion of the diminished visual capacity that accompanies maturing.

Lighting solutions that illuminate more than 100 footcandles, the level specialists have determined to be ideal for reading, are already on the market. A footcandle is a proportion of the measure of illumination on a surface. One footcandle can be likened to one lumen for every square foot of surface region, yet was initially estimated by the power of light a flame produces from one foot away. New lights intended for the maturing eye use a diffuser and a reflector, which make them equipped for focusing light just on the main job, like a book or newspaper. Since these lights incorporate a dimmer and the reflector can be truly moved, they can be acclimated to move light in the ideal situation for ideal perceivability. In addition to making the surface space of reading material more apparent, this lighting makes it less vital for the maturing eye to attempt to change in accordance with shifting degrees of light.

Lighting that incorporates this new technology for the maturing eye can be found in various styles. Detached floor lamps are available with or without a customizable arm that is the ideal tallness for reading while at the same time unwinding in a favorite seat. Hanging ceiling lights, table lamps, work area lamps and sconces are additionally available with this technology to guarantee that all household lighting needs can be fulfilled by this progressive lighting technology.

Ever since we crawled out of that primordial slime, that's been our unifying cry, 'More light.' Sunlight. Torchlight. Candlelight. Neon, incandescent lights that banish the darkness from our caves to illuminate our roads, the insides of our refrigerators. Big floods for the night games at Soldier's Field. Little tiny flashlights for those books we read under the covers when we're supposed to be asleep. Light is more than watts and footcandles. Light is metaphor. Light is knowledge, light is life, light is light."

Diane Frolov and Andrew Schneider - writers

Emblem (Nkpa) of the Leopard Spirit Society, 19th century, Brooklyn Museum: Arts of Africa

The basic structure of this dense and compact emblem, or nkpa, consists of a palm leaf mat woven in the form of a grid, roughly a square, with a fringe of palm fiber, perpendicular to the edges and projecting about 9 in. Onto grid, various fiber, skeletal, and manufactured objects are attached. These include 14 skulls: most appear to be from apes or monkeys; two appear to be from birds of prey; one large one at top of center appears to be from an ox, cow, or horse. Below large skull is tube of wood with hide adhered to it; around it is nestlike ring of root(?) fibers. The smallest skull, which is fragmentary, is attached to two large claws that are wrapped with fiber borders. Also attached are 3 wood clubs: one is long, the height of the proper right side; one is short in proper left corner; one, which may be a tool, is short and at bottom central edge. Inserted at lower proper left corner is folded section of heavily plied and twisted cord. There is an iron knife with painted blade and carved wood handle. Two long bundles of reeds are tied to form an X; two thorned branches are tied to form an X. Condition: An inherently fragile piece that should not be considered for an outward loan. The center was occupied by a membrane drum, the head of which is missing. Paint on iron blade is flaking and powdery. Object always needs to be stored flat in a customized box. For display, a vitrined case with light levels not to exceed 10 footcandles is recommended to protect organic components. Previous owner attached piece to black painted board with cleat for hanging. Size: 37 x 36 x 9 in. (94.0 x 91.4 x 22.9 cm) Medium: Wood, animal skulls, plant fiber, iron, pigment

https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/objects/4998

Today's questions for Google:

How to not be perceived as any gender.

How to stop people from calling you a lady

How to become The Man in the Tan Jacket with the Deerskin Suitcase

How to keep dudes from being weird at you

How to determine footcandles needed for optimal lighting in an open plan living space

How to become a houseplant

I literally don’t understand how my plants are alive.

None of them are getting enough sun -- especially not the sun-lovers, of which I have many.

I don't prune them properly. Many of them look essentially unrecognizable from what you might see if you were to google their image. One of my catnips (just one -- not the other) looks like some sort of vine. My snapdragon looks like a bush.

I under-fertilize, and I know it. My watering is, at times, inconsistent. There's been more than one occasion where I've thought, "Oh fuck. That looks pretty floppy. Whoops..."

I have a number of plants considered to be finicky to grow. Carnivores, orchids, and plants that demand such high light that most people wouldn't dare even try to grow them inside without a full-on grow light set-up, like lavender.

And yet, for some reason, they continue to grow and flower for me. I have several full-sun plants in flower, after several weeks of never getting any better than 1,500 footcandles, and many days barely breaking 500.

Why?

Seriously, I'm asking. Why? How are they alive, much less blooming?

I don't understand this. Why aren't my plants dying?! I haven’t had a damn thing die on me in ages. How the fuck?!

Goethe’s final words: “More light.” Ever since we crawled out of that primordial slime, that’s been our unifying cry: “More light.” Sunlight. Torchlight. Candlight. Neon. Incandescent. Lights that banish the darkness from our caves, to illuminate our roads, the insides of our refrigerators. Big floods for the night games at Soldier’s field. Little tiny flashlight for those books we read under the covers when we’re supposed to be asleep. Light is more than watts and footcandles. Light is metaphor. Thy word is a lamp unto my feet. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. Lead, Kindly Light, amid the encircling gloom - Lead Thou me on! The night is dark, and I am far from home - Lead Thou me on! Arise, shine, for thy light has come. Light is knowledge. Light is life. Light is light.

Chris Stevens, “Northern Exposure” (via provst)

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Read @ebonymagazine's November 2021 coverstory, written by @sunny at www.EBONY.com

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Photography: @joshuakissi⠀⁣

Cover Story: @sunny⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⁣

Interview: @aichasacko and @elsabetfranklin ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⁣

Stylist: @luxurylaw for the @theonly.agency⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⁣

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Video: @ravisionmedia⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⁣

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Additional Photo & Video: @footcandles⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⁣

Stylist Assistant: itsmerazzie⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⁣

Hair Styling: @itsshakela⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⁣

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Makeup Artist: @charrielanettemua⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⁣

Creative Producers: @garyngusc & @mspat_rob⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⁣

Executive Prod @traceysees