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eowyntheavenger · 1 year

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Do you guys want to hear about my trip to Pohnpei?

It’s been about a month since I came home, and I’ve told my friends and family about it, but I still have to scream about it more because IT WAS AMAZING.

First, a brief explanation of the geography. Pohnpei is one of the four states of the Federated States of Micronesia, a Pacific Island country north of the equator. The FSM is made up of more than 600 islands spanning 1,700 miles of ocean.

Not many tourists go there because it’s so remote, but it’s a fascinating country with wonderful people, amazing food and stunningly beautiful landscapes, and I loved it so much. I’ve spent YEARS reading and writing about this country, and this was my first time ever visiting. It was everything I had hoped it would be and more!

I went there for work—to do research. I learned so much and I made a lot of friends and it was amazing to just be there. We had four days of meetings, and then the weekend. That’s when I finally got to explore the island, and I had not one, not two, but THREE of the best experiences I think I’ve ever had in my life.

Visiting the ancient city of Nan Madol

Climbing a giant basalt rock at sunset

Hunting for World War II anti-aircraft guns in the jungle

This is a long post—with photos!—so it’s going under the cut.

The first was going to Nan Madol, which is a beautiful, ancient city built out of basalt about 800 years ago. It lies on the southwest side of the island, about an hour away from Kolonia, where we were staying. My coworker and I rented a car and drove there, and the whole way we saw beautiful views of cloud-wreathed mountains in the island’s interior. Fortunately, when we got close to Nan Madol we got directions from a very nice Micronesian couple, because there were no signs telling us where to go. We paid the landowners the fee to cross their land, as is customary, and then we walked on the path through the mangrove forests towards the city.

When I first saw it, I literally could not believe my eyes, it was so incredible. I didn’t know it would be so big! Some of the structures are crumbling into the sea, but many of them are intact, and stand as tall as 30 feet. The pieces of basalt that form the structures are also gigantic. The city is crisscrossed by canals, and at low tide you can wade in them to get from place to place. There are many trees and ferns among the ruins, but the city has clearly been well taken care of. It was completely quiet except for birdsong and the sound of the waves.

I felt like I had stepped through a window into the past. It was indescribable. My coworker and I were the only people there. We were there for two hours, and didn’t come close to seeing it all—there was too much to take in. It was amazing wading in the canals and walking around the giant structures and looking at the moss-covered stones. It was one of the most majestic things I have ever seen. When we were getting ready to leave, I got a photo of a gorgeous bright red honeyeater called a Micronesian myzomela.

Later that night my coworker flew back to the US, so I spent the next few days having solo adventures. And they were ADVENTURES.

The next day I went hiking on a peninsula across the water from Kolonia. It forms a tall ridge and ends with a giant basalt outcrop called Sokehs Rock. First I climbed the ridge from the southwest side to see the view from the top and the Japanese anti-aircraft guns that are still there in the jungle. It was stiflingly hot. The climb up the switchbacks was a 45 degree angle. The ridge is 600 feet above sea level, and the view was absolutely spectacular—I could see all of Kolonia below, and the mountains in the interior, and an expanse of bright blue ocean with Pohnpei’s northern islands scattered across it like little jewels.

At the top of the ridge I finally entered the jungle. There were towering trees, giant ferns, and bright purple orchids, and the air was full of birdcalls. I had a map, but I quickly realized that the path to the Japanese guns was gone: it hadn’t been used in years. So I struck off into the jungle looking for them, hoping that I wouldn’t get lost. I decided to walk where the trees appeared less thick and hope that was where the path used to be. It was very muddy, and I walked face-first into MANY spiderwebs, and it was so fun and exciting.

I started getting close to the western side of the ridge. Then I saw something unmistakable, but hard to believe it’s still there after almost 80 years: a bomb crater from World War II. It was at least 30 feet deep and 30 feet wide, and blanketed with leaves, but it was obvious what it was. I knew I was getting close to one of the guns, so I started going faster, and nearly tripped over it! The barrel was jutting out across the grass, the body of the gun hidden in a cave-like bunker cut into the side of the ridge, with long grass hanging down over the opening. It was incredible. I climbed down into the bunker to get a better look at the gun, and I took a lot of photos, but I was assailed by some very angry bats that did not like being awakened during the day, so I climbed out. (There is no rabies in Micronesia, thankfully.)

At this point, it was getting late in the day, and I still wanted to climb Sokehs Rock. I knew that the next few days it would rain, so I had to do it now. I went back down the ridge and caught a taxi to the end of the peninsula where the other trail was located. The driver told me that no one had climbed Sokehs Rock in at least ten years, but I didn’t believe him—I had heard it was the popular thing to do here, so how could that be? (I was soon to learn my error.)

I started up the trail, only to find that there was no trail. I thought it had been hard to find a path through the trees earlier—this was worse. The trees were all much too close together and covered in strangling vines. It was incredibly steep—five minutes after setting off I was already climbing on my hands and knees over boulders and under fallen trees. But I didn’t want to give up! I could see the basalt cliff above me through the canopy. I knew that I could (or rather I was stubbornly determined to) make it to the top of that cliff before sundown. I wanted to see the view! And I didn’t want to waste my efforts so far. So I pressed on.

It was NOT easy getting through those trees. I had a map of where the path USED to be, but the forest was so wild, it didn’t really matter. Finally I reached the bottom of a cliff that was about 35-40 feet tall. There was a rope attached to a tree high above me. I had read about this (on a hiking blog written ten years ago—a fact I suddenly remembered) so I knew I was in the right place.

Climbing the cliff was incredibly fun. There were some handholds and footholds, but I was grateful for the rope. I was very careful. I had not expected the hike to be so harrowing, and the last thing I wanted was to break my ankle (or my neck) alone in the middle of the jungle. I made it to the top of the cliff safely, and I was rewarded by an incredible view of the basalt cliffs rising on either side and Kolonia down below as the last rays of the sun pierced through the forest behind me. There was a terrifying drop off to my left, so I sat very still and took some photos.

I knew I had about fifteen minutes before sunset and total darkness. It was both exhilarating and peaceful, being up there alone. The wind was blowing in the branches, and the lights in Kolonia were twinkling on. The ocean was turning a dark blue in the fading light. I knew it was stupid to go hiking by myself, climb a cliff by myself, and then—yes—climb down the ridge in the dark. But sometimes you have to do foolish things. I put myself in this situation, and I accepted the consequences. At least I had enough common sense to climb down the vertical cliff part of it while there was still a little daylight left…

There was enough light for my eyes but not enough for my camera, so I used the flash. This is looking straight down the cliff, about a 35 foot drop onto jagged boulders! Yes, I know. Poor choices were made.

I reached the bottom of the cliff and maybe five minutes passed before it was pitch black. I turned on my flashlight. I had to be very careful about every step I took: I didn’t want to step on a stone that would give way, or a fallen tree that would give way, or get tripped by a vine, or fall in a ditch. If this forest was difficult to get through in the daylight, it was much worse in the dark. At one point I ended up waist-deep in vines and tangled tree branches, and I felt around for the ground and realized I had somehow wandered over a ravine and there WAS no ground beneath me—I was standing on branches, and I didn’t even know how far down it went. That was very disconcerting. I remembered that scene in the Hobbit when they’re in Mirkwood and I practically heard Gandalf’s voice scolding me: “Don’t leave the path!”

Not that there was a path, of course. But I did find my way back onto solid ground after that. I stood still and turned off my flashlight just to see what it was like, and I saw bioluminescent insects on the leaves of the trees. The forest was just as loud with birdcalls as it was during the day, and when I turned my flashlight back on it illuminated some bats swooping overhead. I started recognizing the same boulders and trees that had given me trouble on the way up, and now instead of being annoyed by them I was reassured. Still, it was very difficult getting out of that forest.

I finally saw the glow of a streetlamp through the trees, and I found myself wandering out of the forest onto the road. I was absolutely covered in mud except where sweat had washed it off. There was a cricket inside my shirt that I had somehow failed to notice. I was so tired. I felt so alive. I went back to my hotel, took a shower, and went straight to sleep. I was oddly unscathed: just a few scratches and cuts on my hands.

Here is a photo of Sokehs Rock that I took on a different day, with an arrow to the part that I climbed:

On Monday I was supposed to take a day of leave, but I had more meetings that spilled over from the week before—not that I minded! They were really interesting. And it was raining like hell. In the afternoon I went to see a waterfall.

But what I really want to recount is my final adventure.

On Tuesday, the day I was going to leave Pohnpei, my eyes snapped open at 5:30am and there was one thought in my mind: ANTI-AIRCRAFT GUNS. I had to go back to Sokehs Ridge to see the other two anti-aircraft guns—I had only found one of them before. I knew I would be disappointed if I didn’t try. It was raining, and my legs were sore from all the hiking I’d already done, but I wasn’t going to let that stop me. I went back to Sokehs Ridge. And I climbed it again. And the view was just as beautiful on a cloudy day. Now the orchids were covered in raindrops, and the light rain that was falling was so refreshing.

I got to the top of the ridge and struck off into the jungle again to find the other two anti-aircraft guns. I had the same map from the other day, but the paths on it were nowhere to be seen (at least I wasn’t surprised by this anymore). I just used my sense of direction and whatever supernatural abilities I possess to home in on World War II guns. It was even muddier than before, of course, and I was constantly being slapped by wet leaves and vines and branches. I walked into a wet spiderweb every yard or so. Far from detracting from the experience, it actually made it more fun, for some reason.

Besides, I had hiked out of a jungle thicker than this IN THE DARK, so this forest wasn’t going to stop me! I went in the general direction I assumed one of the guns was located, trying to find the path of least resistance. Eventually I saw the ground rising steeply on my right side and a more open grassy area to the left. The higher ground on the right ultimately formed a grassy wall about six feet high, and I couldn’t see what was behind it. I found an opening in the wall and waded through some ankle-deep mud, and I was looking down at my shoes trying to pull my feet free when I finally looked up—and there it was, a type 89 anti-aircraft naval gun. Why they put guns that were usually mounted on ships on a mountain, I’m not sure, but IT WAS SO COOL.

It was covered in rust and ferns and vines. It was massive. It was so surreal to see this giant gun just sitting in the middle of the jungle. I took photos of it from all angles. The gun was surrounded by a grassy embankment that I had seen from the other side—I couldn’t quite get far enough away from it to take the photos I wanted, so I climbed up on the wall to take them from a distance. Then I climbed back down to continue marveling at it.

This anti-aircraft gun is sitting in the exact same place it was during World War II. Back then, it could shoot down a plane at 48,000 feet. It took a year for laborers to push it up to the top of the ridge. I love museums, but this was about a billion times better than being in a World War II museum.

Then I went in search of the other anti-aircraft gun—the same type, but farther east. It was harder to find. I went in the direction I thought it was, but there was just a field. On the other side of the field, maybe 15 yards away, there was more jungle, and beyond I knew I would find the track that had gotten me up the ridge, and I would have gone too far. But there was clearly no anti-aircraft gun between me and the line of trees. I went into the field anyway—and quickly learned that fields are deceptive and not any easier than forests. The grass was up to my eyes. I couldn’t see where my feet were, and it turned out that the ground was treacherously uneven, rising and falling constantly, and by turns I was getting my feet stuck in mud or clambering on uneven stones or nearly slipping in the wet grass. I needed to find the gun!

I saw some higher ground to my right and I thought I should go that way, so I did, only to find the barrels of the gun pointed straight at me. It had been hidden by the ridges of the land and vines and foliage. When I had started into the field, it had been no less than 15 feet away, completely invisible! It was the coolest thing—to be completely alone in this gorgeous jungle, staring down the barrels of a 6,000 pound anti-aircraft gun from a war eight decades ago. But this one was even more covered in foliage—a tree had engulfed more than half of it.

I took so many photos. And it was so hard to pry myself away, but I finally did, feeling very satisfied. I thought about it on the way down the ridge: why was this SO MUCH FUN? And I think a big part of it had to do with the fact that there were no paths. I didn’t actually KNOW I was going to find the guns. I wasn’t guaranteed to find anything, except more trees. Finding each gun was a challenge. It was like going on a treasure hunt.

I went back to my hotel, took a shower, finished packing, and made it to the airport on time. That was my last day in the Federated States of Micronesia. I CANNOT WAIT TO GO BACK.

#personal #Federated States of Micronesia #I want to go back NOW #I loved ittttttttt

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minimag1c · 11 months

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Back again for another shitty chapter eh

Sorry it will happen again lmao

Operation Castelbravo Goes Wrong

➪Tw : Nuclear weapons, throwing up and a moment where Marshall islands's organs are starting to get funky oops sorry-

➪If I remember correctly (i hope because I'm really scared that I got the date wrong and therefore this book wouldn't make sense), the nuclear testing happened around 1950 therefore Usa hasn't made his transition yet and use she/her in this one-shot

➪I don't really have a lot of things to say here except that and the fact that it's horrible lmao- 0.5/10. Zero star. Wouldn't recommend.

➪Enjoy I guess?

➪Micronesia is just there as a side character and her speech is useless /hj

➪I'm really not proud of this one-shot. In fact, I hate it. Really. It's so rushed and bad written.

_______________________________________

"Pwipwi, I don't feel any good feelings from that"

"I already know it sister" Marshall islands sighed as he lay back on the palm tree, crossing his arms. "I know that you are not trusting that American and to be honest, me neither but at the same time, I can't ignore the fact that she needs me for her testing" he said but Micronesia looked at him in concern and confusion, in the pejorative way.

"Are you serious right now???" she asked as the Marshallese blinked a few times.

"Why? What's the matter?" he asked, confused as well while the Micronesian girl punched the bridge of her nose, sighing.

"Pwipwi, you know that I love you right? But on the other hand, you can't just ignore the fact that this American girl's argument is bullshit! Isn't she like, one of the most powerful countries with this URSS person! I think that-not to be rude but-it's very stupid from her to think about you in that way, mostly because she probably consider us as "small" in the very derogatory way." the Micronesian girl argued as Marshall Island looked at the ground. Micronesia quickly put her hand on his shoulder, panicking a little.

"Hey I'm sorry I didn't meant to put you down but you have to know that. This girl, despite being praised as a capitalist hero, didn't only done good in order to get that much fame. Remember, she's in competition with USSR and would not miss an opportunity to show that she is better than him. That means that she can't be fully trusted and I don't want you to end up in a terrible situation. "the Micronesian girl explained, trying to rephrase what she have said before.

The marshallese thought about her words, wrapping his knees and pulling them up on his chest, still looking away. At the same time, he wanted to believe in his sister's words and not accept USA's request to help her... But on the other hand, he wanted to feel seen and if Usa herself asked him help therefore maybe people would finally know him and he would be recognized! And yet, Micronesia's words seemed to be true since yes the American girl was a world power and the marshallese knew that the more someone was powerful, the less they could be fully trusted.

However, before he could say anything else, the two micronesian heard a feminine voice and a few other chatting among themselves. They both turned their heads and saw the thing that they exactly didn't wanted to see.

Usa was talking with her few soldiers who stayed on the islands, occasionally laughing with them but soon stopped when she spotted the marshallese and smiled as she waved her hand to make him notice her. The American soldiers seemed to notice Marshall islands as well and let the American alone, with him.

At first, Micronesia glared at Usa, still skeptical about why did she wanted specifically aid from her brother but then the concerned hesitantly went to the other personnification, much to the Micronesian's incomprehension.

"Marshall Island! I was just looking for you!" Usa said as Marshall Islands coughed awkwardly and waved in return.

"Yeah hi. Do you still want my help?" he asked, not knowing why he suddenly felt a bad feeling about all of this and that he should probably listen to his sister after all.

"Exactly. I wanted to talk about the tests" she said, getting abnormally serious, making Marshall Island feel even more uncomfortable, mostly because he knew exactly what did she meant.

"The test...? You meant the..."

"Yes. The Castel bravo one."

At that moment, Micronesia nearly jumped from her seat but instead looked at Marshall islands in disbelief while the latter really didn't wanted to at her right now. "Castel bravo ??? What is it again ??? He never told me that test! He only told me that it wa about that american girl's weapon!" Micronesia thought to herself, wanting so badly to say it out loud but knew that it wasn't a good idea so the only thing she could do was to be angry in her own space.

But she didn't wanted to hear this conversation so the only thing she could do was to walk away, feeling even more angry.

On the other hand, Usa completely ignored the micronesian girl on purpose and continued to explain to Marshall islands her plan, gesturing and waving her hands around.

"We have already set the nuclear testing on Bikini Atoll and we only need to activate it in order to test our nuclear." she casually continued to explain as Marshall islands widened his eyes.

"What?! B-but... Usa, there are people who live there!" he said as the young woman blinked a few times, a little surprised that she didn't got informed by this but luckily, she quickly found a made up excuse.

"Yes I already knew it Marshall and I'm pretty my soldiers already told them to evacuate as soon and quick as possible" she clarified, smiling but soon got dropped her smile when someone started to talk on her walkie talkie. She answered it in english but Marshall islands couldn't recognize anything they said not only because of the glitchy voice of the talkie walkie but also because Usa purposefully uses her thickest American accent in order to not make sure that he doesn't understand.

She quickly hung up and she looked from afar at the atoll, an indescribable expression on her face as Marshall islands looked at it too, an unhinged feeling growing even more bigger in his stomach. A small awkward silence started to form as the young man decided to cut it.

"So... What did they say?"

Upon hearing the Marshallese talk, Usa turned her head to look at him and with a disturbing amount of serenity in her voice, she casually said.

"I hope you aren't sensitive to loud sounds. "

And with that last remark that left Marshall islands even more confused, she talked once more into her talkie walkie as she cut the conversation off and backed to her side, a little bit further from Bikini atoll as they both heard a strange coming from the zone sound that send shivers down the young man's spine.

"Hey what's going on?" Micronesia asked from afar, also feeling the uncomfortable feeling in her stomach as she looked at her brother.

But before they could react, a loud and booming explosion was heard as a bright light blinded the three.

Automatically, Marshall islands covered himself as he heard his sister yelping in fear and surprise as Usa also hid her eyes because of the brightness. It took about two minutes before Marshall islands could lower his arms and see what happened.

Oh he instantly regretted it.

A big bright radioactive cloud started to emerge from the atoll, creating an horrific amount of smoke around it to the point where he could even feel the air getting hotter and heavier as if it wasn't already. Usa also lowered her arms to look at the operation and widened her eyes, realizing what happened.

On the other hand, Micronesia quickly ran over to help your brother but just in case, she kept a distance from him as she yelled, panicked.

"Marshall islands!! Are you feeling okay?!"

At first, the Marshallese only turned his head to look at the Micronesian girl and was about to respond that he was okay, still shook but okay.

Until he felt something in his stomach.

Out of instinct, he fell on the ground on his knees, holding his abdomen, a hand on his mouth.

"Marshall islands... ?" Usa hesitantly asked still looking in horror back and forth at the atoll, also starting to cough a little. The latter tried to perk up but then another wave of pain hit him as in parallel, the radioactive mushroom started to get bigger and worse. Marshall islands started to cough too but unlike the American girl, it seemed more... Worrying.

But after, the two women completely froze when the young Marshallese started to convulse violently as his coughs worsened.

"Marshall!!" the Micronesian yelled as he started to throw up, tears starting to form in the corner of his eyes.

Everything started to hurt, from his head to his feet.

He shut his eyes tightly, his heart feeling as if it was spinning but also heavy at the same time, it was hard to describe what he felt because the pain mainly came in his inside. He felt as if they burning slowly and decaying each second, building the throwing up sensation until he puke blood, radiation and other unrecognizable liquid. His throat burned him, his organs seemed rotten, his vision became blurry and unsettlingly distorted and his ears were ringing so loudly it didn't eased his migraine at all.

Usa, automatically, backed up from him, an horrified expression on her face, seeing the horrendous consequences of the failed operation. Micronesia, on the other hand, wanted to help her brother so badly but knew that it was a very bad idea, mostly in such bad shape.

"Marshall islands! Are you okay?! Please answer me!" she pleaded.

However, Marshall islands couldn't hear her anymore, couldn't see anymore and couldn't speak anymore. He felt so painful, so numb, too many of his body parts were killing him slowly at this point. He knew that nuclear testing weren't the safest thing but he didn't knew that a failed operation would be so catastrophic, mainly on him.

But what would happen next? He already feel too much pain currently but what would happen if the radioactive fungus would spread not only on bikini atoll but also on the entire country? What will happen to the marshallese people? To his people? To him??

If only he could think about it more but it was a bad idea as his headache got worse and in the end he couldn't even be on his knees anymore as he collapsed, under the heavy radioactive air of Castelbravo.

----

Archive of our own version

Wattpad version

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AAAAAH I'M SORRY I RUINED THIS ONE-SHOT

EVEN THOUGH IT HAD POTENTIAL AND IT WAS ABOUT ONE OF MY FAV COUNTRY I'M SO DISAPPOINTED IN MYSELF HHHHHHHHHHHHH-

Ahem sorry for the scream but really, HOW CAN I SAY THAT THIS IS GOING TO BE A HISTORICAL COUNTRYHUMANS ONE-SHOT IF IN THE SECOND ONE-SHOT I'M ALREADY LOST ON TRACK

Anyway.

Bye 😘 *go back to my grave and let the earth slowly reclaim me*

{1886 words}

Posted : 22/06/2023

#Countryhumans #Countryhuman #countryhumans usa #countryhumans america #countryhumans marshall islands #Countryhumans Micronesia #Countryhumans federate states of Micronesia

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deathshallbenomore · 2 years

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i’m not even Cool Weird i’m just Swagless Weird. a bit boring, even. but you know what. good for me, good for me!

#now let me tell you about this incredible concept that I found in the constitution of the federated states of Micronesia

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travelella · 2 months

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Chuuk Lagoon, Weno, Federated States of Micronesia

Marek Okon

#Chuuk Lagoon #Weno #Federated States of Micronesia #Micronesia #Oceania

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pasquines · 2 months

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#American Samoa #History #Amata Coleman Radewagen #Federated States of Micronesia #Marshall Islands #Nauru #Pacific #Palau #Russia #Ukraine

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biglisbonnews · 1 year

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The world is off-track to meet Iis Sustainable Water Goal by 2030, UN water experts warn Countries: Afghanistan, Chad, Comoros, Djibouti, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Haiti, Liberia, Libya, Madagascar, Micronesia (Federated States of), Niger, Pakistan, Papua New Guinea, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Sierra Leone, Solomon Islands, Somalia, South Sudan, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Vanuatu, World, Yemen Source: United Nations University 3 out of 4 people currently live in water-insecure countries. More people die from a lack of WASH services than water-related disasters, reveals the new UN global water security assessment. https://reliefweb.int/report/world/global-water-security-2023-assessment

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pacificislandtimesnews · 2 years

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Partnership with US boosts Pacific Islands Forum's influence as a group

The recently concluded White House summit that fortified the alliance between Washington and Pacific island nations has powered up the Pacific Islands Forum into becoming an influential bloc, according to American Samoa’s delegate to the U.S. Congress.

“With America adopting a 'whole-of-government' approach to the Pacific, it is only fitting that the island governments adopt a ‘whole-of-region’ approach to its relations with outside powers,” Congresswoman Uifa’atali Amata said.

President Joe Biden signed the U.S.-Pacific Partnership Declaration with leaders of 14 Pacific island states during the U.S. Pacific Country Summit held at the White House on Sept. 28 and 29.

“The summit may have breathed some new life back into the Pacific Island Forum and paved the way for it and perhaps new multilateral alliances to provide hands-on facilitation of security and defense cooperation, as well as investment and development throughout the region,” Amata said.

Click this link: https://www.pacificislandtimes.com/post/partnership-with-us-boosts-pacific-islands-forum-s-influence-as-a-group

#Federated States of Micronesia

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subzy-design · 2 years

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(via Love Federated States of Micronesia Sticker by Subzy Design) Love Federated States of Micronesia Sticker

#findyourthing #redbubble #Federated States of Micronesia

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folkfashion · 13 days

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Yapese boy, Federal States of Micronesia, by John De Mello

#yapese #federal states of micronesia #oceania #micronesia #folk clothing #traditional clothing #traditional fashion #cultural clothing

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zvaigzdelasas · 5 months

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It was in the spirit of Christmas-giving that OCD [“Operation Christmas Drop.”] began over half a century ago. Andersen Air Force Base (Guam) is now the basecamp for a range of U.S. military interservice, community/volunteer-supported, regional allies and partners events that delivers mostly school supplies, clothing, rice, fishing equipment, and toys. OCD is estimated to impact 20,000 people in the Federated States of Micronesia and Palau. For a host of reasons, Operation Christmas Drop has become window-dressing for a romanticized, fossilized view of U.S. assistance and Pacific islanders. This high-profile media event masks nearly a century of U.S. under-development in Micronesia. Against the backdrop of the FSM and Palau being heavily indebted and dependent on U.S. funds and identified as relationships the U.S. has taken for granted, it is possible that the Grinch is propping up this Christmas event. It is the U.S. under-development of the region (OCD notwithstanding) that contributes to the welcoming that Chinese economic investment has received. Although Chinese development debt trap diplomacy in the region has been flagged as a concern by some, in Micronesia, there is a continuum of underdevelopment and dependency overseen by the U.S. It is not unusual for countries to create and tell stories about themselves. Great powers spin self-promoting projections and try to shape how the world works. In this narrative frame, OCD is a “heritage of generosity” to help out “remote islands” and is the “longest-running humanitarian airlift in the world.” The narrative gaps in this story, however, are glaring.[...]

The FSM and Palau are approaching 40 years of a freely associated state (FAS) status, a relationship the U.S. legally regards as “special” and “highly privileged.” The basic parameters of this relationship have been (1) an arguably subsistence level of U.S. financial support for the FAS in exchange for (2) U.S. military access and rights of strategic denial in the FAS. The U.S. has what it seeks in the relationship, but this has not been a balanced equation. Over three decades as part of the “Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands” overseen by the United States under the United Nations yielded little in the way of development. Four decades as “Freely Associated States” has rendered little more in the way of sustainable economic activity.

Stimulating and supporting local economic development in Micronesia does not seem to have ever been a U.S. goal in its special relationship with the region. If it was, it has been a dismal failure. Not surprisingly then, built into the relationship with the U.S. is the “safety valve” of an open border to the U.S. for Micronesians who find little opportunity at home. For FAS citizens, the real benefits of the relationship only seem to gain fruition when they leave their homelands to find work, education, and the benefits of U.S. social welfare programs in the United States.[...]

After two U.S.-led Pacific Island Summit in two years, promises of aid and regional reengagement, and renegotiations of the Compacts of Free Association (COFA), the U.S. has not delivered. At the recent Pacific Island Forum meeting, the head of the U.S. delegation “pledged to work with Congress to provide over $8 billion in new funding and programs for the Pacific.”

Never mind that the U.S. had not delivered the prior year pledges, or that over $7 billion of the new funding was for the COFA economic packages. Yet, even these subsistence COFA economic packages have not yet been approved, leading to the FSM saying they face a “fiscal cliff.” Increasingly agitated parties in Washington are heralding that the loss of COFA funding would present an opportunity for the CCP to expand its economic influence. Even efforts to prioritize new funding for the COFA states in the U.S. National Defense Authorization Act failed in late November[...]

Put simply, the Christmas Drop, as good as it may feel, is not a substitute for a failed U.S. economic policy in the region. Sadly, even the anticipated renewal of the COFA economic packages sometime in 2024 will not change the condition of underdevelopment in Micronesia. There is no realistic plan for regional development. While some in Washington decry expanding Chinese economic influence in Micronesia, few understand that it is U.S. policy that has created the hospitable environment for Chinese effect.

Setting a low bar for yourself—that you clear with fables—works only as long as everyone believes your story and is happy with it.

The U.S. relationship in the Pacific region in general — and the COFA states in particular — have outgrown the Santa narrative. And the region is watching. It is not yet clear that Washington understands this. Most Pacific Island states, of course, will be grateful for any new levels of U.S. funding. That does not make them believers in Santa. It also does not mean that they will shun support from other interested parties.

22 Dec 23

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noneedtofearorhope · 1 year

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