Yesterday we did the first homeworld and apparently some of you wanted to join but the link didn’t work so I’ll put it here with my very shaped roster of inhabitants:
i went to my first reptile expo today! the main idea was to buy foliage and feeding tongs for Squeegee, but i spent like, hours looking at all the snakes!! (i am not allowed to have a snake. i consider this a Point of Constant Warfare with my parents. they said no a lot during the expo haha)
feeding Squeej with tongs is a lot easier than without. i did that yesterday and it was. an adventure. (there will be a video at the end. uhh tw?? for munchying on a cricket.)
he is a very good eater!! at one point he got the cricket, dropped it, and jumped at the tongs again like it would reappear there instead of on the desk haha. and then he let me pet his back after without spazzing!!! i think this makes us best friends lmao
Hello favorite! I have a small (18x12x12") ZooMed terrarium which for years has hosted only a Lace Flower plant (Alsobia dianthiflora). It's set up with a drainage layer and vivarium substrate, and would be easy to make bioactive. (I keep a bioactive tank for my crested gecko.) I'm wondering if you know of any bug friends I could keep in that tank which wouldn't require regular trips to a pet store - so, no crickets or mealworms, but any critters that could live in that space and (cont)
(cont) would happily eat frozen food (bloodworms maybe?) or Pangea Gecko Diet. No worries if you can't come up with any - the Lace Flower plant is a delight on its own - but it would be lovely to have a [very low-maintenance] friend in there. :) TIA!
Hello! I think any low maintenance non-predator bug friend you wanted to keep in there would require quite a few changes to the substrate and additions of decor to be appropriate. The only thing that you could probably just toss in there and they'd be fine would be isopods - though they'd still need a few changes and they would almost certainly breed so heavily you'd have to upgrade the enclosure. Millipedes would be possible but again, there are a few changes they'd need. Or a snail maybe, though they might eat your plant.
Hello! Thank you for sharing your wisdom and excitement! :)
I am a new gargoyle gecko owner (new to all reptile husbandry, actually) and I’m often very nervous about doing things ‘wrong’ and accidentally harming the amazing new friend living with me.
Do you have any easy advice or mistakes to avoid? I have a terrarium with isopoda and living plants and I’m feeding Pangea and live crickets twice a week. Or do you have any good resources/accounts you’d trust for advice on gargs?
Thank you so much and thank you for your care and the love you have for these amazing beings!
—Isy
Hi Isy!
It sounds like you're doing good with your gargoyle already!
Here's a rough care guide for how we do it in case there's anything you're missing or could change 😊 this also serves as a guide to others with gargoyles and also crested geckos since their care is identical
- Minimum enclosure size for an adult 45x45x60cm (18x18x24in)
- Overhead heating and lighting, including UVB
- temperature around 26°C and humidity between 60-80% (drops to around 40% are fine but mostly should be 60-80%)
- decor like branches, plants (live or fake), bridges and ledges, making sure to have enough horizontal spaces to reduce chances of floppy tail syndrome
- feeding complete gecko diet like Pangea or Repashy every 2-3 days, and every 3rd or 4th feeding giving live insects dusted in multivitamin powder
- provide a shallow water dish at all times, but make sure it's shallow since new caledonian geckos are prone to drowning in water that's not actually that deep, around 2cm of water is enough!
- with a cleanup crew like isopods and springtails you don't need to do spot checks that often, but without them spot checks should be every week
- take out fake decor and clean it using reptile safe cleaning products like F10 disinfectant, white vinegar, rubbing alcohol or original scent dish soap
The face of a criminal. He has decided that he is no longer scared of my hand and is going through a phase called “I am going to go out of my way to follow your hand so I can lick it and climb on it and bite the ever loving shit out of it”
A lot of us are already in a big group spec bio project, Sagan 4
Oooo I’m curious (he says knowing very well he could just google it)
But the idea I had in mind was:
It’s a seed world. We all have the same planet and the same catastrophic events such as extinctions and earfkwakes, but the animals on it have to be pets we have. For example: the fauna on my planet would start as such:
Green and blue Budgies
Dwarf rabbits
Banded bullfrogs
Crickets
Red blue and yellow cherry shrimp
Snails
Crested geckos
Isopods
I don’t know if I should include the pets at my dad’s house.. if so:
Corn snakes
Cats
But no way in fuck I’m adding cats
Anyways, I’ll wait for the end of the poll to see if I do it or not
So i have a germaphobia issue, my doctor recommends i get a pet to both help with my exposure therapy, and to give me a companion to help with depression, i’m currently considering a crested gecko? Basically what i’m asking is are they messy animals? And if so should i consider something else?
Hi, mod @release-the-hound here!
All animals are going to eat, so all animals are going to poop. All animals will require some amount of cleaning. Whether or not that's a mess you can handle is sort of up to you. For example, I find bird poop way ickier to deal with than dog poop, so I don't own birds! You may find lizard poop not that bad, or it may be the worst thing in the world (in which case I'd recommend an animal that is not a reptile).
I can't tell you what animal you should get. But I can tell you "ick" factors that you'll have to deal with if you own a crested gecko, and ways you might be able to overcome them.
Lamellae are the hair like structures that allow crested geckos to stick to things and climb so well. They might feel weird on your skin. The good news is you don't have to handle your geckos a lot if you don't want to, and you can wear gloves and long sleeves so you don't have skin to skin contact with your gecko.
Crested geckos like to lick stuff! Watch some videos of them online to see if that grosses you out and if it's something you can tolerate seeing in your own home.
Crested gecko diets include fruit puree, powdered diet, and live insects. Make sure you are comfortable handling all of these substances before purchasing a gecko. Crickets and dubia roaches are probably the insects you will be feeding your gecko. The fruit puree can sometimes develop bacterial growths if you leave it out for too long, remove it after about 4 to 6 hours to prevent this.
Humidity in an enclosure should be 50% during the day and 80% at night. Crested geckos sleep during the day and only start to wake up around sunset. Therefore you're going to have to mist their enclosure on a daily basis.
A hot (ideal temp is 72F to 80F) and humid environment is an environment that bacteria love to live in. Your geckos will need hides. Cork wood is less prone to rot than other types of wood hides. PVC pipe hides are also an option. You will still have to clean these hides on occasion. You could also use disposable hides made from paper towel rolls and tissue boxes, and simply throw them out whenever they get gross. Crested geckos also need driftwood for climbing, which may need to be cleaned.
Crested geckos need plant life in their enclosures. You can develop a vivarium (aka. bioactive) enclosure, if handling dirt and dealing with plant care is tolerable to you. This lets you use live plants for your setup! Fake, plastic plants won't need much maintenance though, and can also be easily cleaned if they get dirty.
Crested geckos need to be provided with clean water on a daily basis in a shallow dish. These dishes will end up with bits of dirt in them so you have to be ok with cleaning them.
Crested geckos will shed, so you have to be ok with seeing that.
Substrates are tricky. An easy and common substrate for keepers early on is paper towel. It's great because it's quick to throw out and replace when it gets dirty. However, it makes it extremely visually obvious where your lizard has pooped, which might be difficult for you.
A natural substrate (ex. vermiculite or sphagnum moss) is a great option, because when set up properly, this "bioactive" enclosure naturally cleans up waste for you. However, this is very complicated to set up initially, and you'll have to be comfortable introducing fungi, and insects (typically springtails and isopods) into your enclosure (they're the ones doing all the cleaning up!). You will still have to clean the glass and hides on occasion, just as you would with a paper-towel substrate set up.
I'll also add some links that might help you:
Overview of basic crested gecko requirements.