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weditchthemap · 5 years

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Visiting Hatay (Antakya) Turkey - Learn About the Best Foods and Sights (We Came for the Kunefe! )

Antakya, Hatay, Turkey

Turkey’s Hatay province juts out from southern Turkey like a peninsula. It’s sandwiched between the Mediterranean Sea to the west and Syria the east. Hatay was previously part of Syria and only became part of Turkey in 1939. Consequently, Arab culture has a strong presence in Hatay and influences the local culture, language, and cuisine. Hatay is home to a diverse mixture of faiths such as Orthodox Christians, Syriac Christians, Sunnis, and Alevis. The city of Antakya (a destination on the Silk Road historically called Antioch) is the multicultural cosmopolitan city where we based ourselves while in Hatay.

We arrived in Antakya after a few baklava-filled days in the gastronomic paradise of Gaziantep, Turkey. Our bus wound through the Nur Mountains until we sighted views of the coast. The bus continued south until reaching Antakya, not far from the Syrian border. The scenic ride was tainted by our unwilling inhalation of smoke from the bus driver’s and another man’s cigarettes. These men saw no issue in lighting up their cigarettes in the midst of transit, inside the confines of the regional bus (where the windows don’t open!). Gesturing that we didn’t care for the smoking, the bus attendant laughably sprayed some air-freshener down the bus aisle as the duo carried on smoking. At first, observing the exorbitant amount of smoking in Turkey was an amusing novelty but it’s become quite a nuisance. It’s proving hard to escape the second-hand smoke even though there was a public ban on smoking in 1997. Despite this irritation, we fell in love with historical Hatay. Hatay is loaded with diversity, history and some seriously delicious cuisine. Read on to learn about what to eat, see, and do in Hatay.

Don’t Miss These Foods in Antakya (Hatay)

Kunefe: What Dreams are Made of

With two months in Turkey under our belt we’d been eagerly anticipating our arrival in Hatay. We had just one thing on our minds, and one thing alone, the reason for our visit to this southern most region of Turkey; kunefe (alternate spellings; kanafeh,kunafeh, kunafa, knafeh, konafi). We’d been patiently waiting to try this dessert, even abstaining from trying elsewhere in Turkey. Hatay, we’d been told by locals, is where you go for kunefe. Just the sheer mention of kunefe brings a smile to locals faces and a glint to their eyes as they divulge their favorite place in town to try this sweet and cheesy treat.

Cinaralti Kunefe Yusuf Usta inside Antakya’s bazaar has the best kunefe in Antakya, Hatay. A bold statement I know, but before we visited this spot we had it verified by several locals and, upon tasting it, we can confirm; their kunefe is divine. At Cinaralti Kunefe Yusuf Usta the kunefe is cooked the good ol’ fashioned way, on coals over an open flame. To make kunefe strands of sweet filo dough called kadayif are layered with cheese and cooked until the cheese is melted. We observed the entire process as the workers masterfully piled on the ingredients, cooked the kunefe until the top was golden brown and then flipped the entire dish like a giant pancake. We were served the kunefe while it was still hot—stretchy strands of cheese followed our slice being served onto our plate from the large cooking pan like a cheesy slice of lasagna. Being simultaneously sweet, savory, crispy and buttery, kunefe is perfection in a pan. Holding out for this dessert was absolutely worth it. We even splurged for a side of ice cream - what’s a little more dairy in addition to the cheese-filled, butter-coated kunefe anyways?

Biberli Ekmek - Red Pepper Bread

On the note of food, another regional specialty to try is a red pepper paste flat bread called biberli ekmek. It’s hard to miss this Syrian-influenced bread as it’s available in stalls, street corners and bakeries everywhere in Antakya. We were lucky to spot this local bread fresh out of a tandoor. While ordering the spicy, flavorful flat bread to-go a woman passing by helped us translate to aide in our transaction. When departing she reached into her shopping bag and handed us some of her own recently purchased warm breakfast rolls. We will surely never starve in Turkey! To the dismay of our waistlines, the Turkish people continue to ensure we are well fed.

Rose Syrup Dessert & Other Hatay Culinary Specialities

While taking the public bus into Hatay’s Old Town two friendly teenage girls shyly pursued the opportunity to practice their English with us. Before we exited the bus they kindly insisted that we allow them to show us their home town. We agreed and they appointed themselves our tour guides for the morning. Following their lead we strolled through the twisted alleyways until we reached Kurtuluş Street. Actually, until we were on top of Kurtuluş Street which currently sits 9m (30ft) below ground. This ancient Roman road was at one time a popular shopping destination for people across the Middle East. It’s claim to fame is that it was the first street in the world to have street lighting. There are future plans to create underground tunnels to access this historical site.

Next our new friends lead to us a cafe in Old Town to try bici bici rose dessert. The milky dessert is served with fragrant homemade rose syrup and ice-cream. The highlighter pink confection is best enjoyed in the ivy covered tea garden of Tarihi Affan Kahvesi, a historical neighborhood cafe.

Other local culinary specialities to try in Hatay include:

Kekik salatasasi a zesty wild thyme salad served with onions and tomatoes

Cevizli biber a spicy red pepper paste meze dip made with crushed walnuts and olive oil

Oruk an oblong meat patty encased in a crispy fried bulgur shell.

What to Do in Antakya

Antakya’s Bazaar

In the Old Town section of Antakya you’ll find the local bazaar. With colorful spice stands and home-made soap venders the bazaar retains some of its old world charm. We purchased spicy Samandag red pepper flakes and laurel soap from a stall where the sales lady divulged that laurel soap is the reason for the Turkish women’s shiny hair. We got lost in the narrow pathways of the bazaar and stumbled upon a few shopkeepers enjoying cay (Turkish tea) in a quiet little corner of the bazaar. They smiled at us and, in typical Turkish fashion invited us to join them and share a tulip shaped glass of tea. They spoke with us using google translate while smiling largely. Our hearts were warmed by their tea and kindness. One of the women sent us on our way with a green herb she’d been pruning as we talked. She recommended we try it mixed into yogurt.

Hatay Archaeology Museum

Hatay was a part of ancient Mesopotamia, the cradle of civilization. The artifacts contained in Hatay’s Archeological Museum provide a glimpse into ancient life. Just a ten minute drive north of the city center, the museum is an impressive showcase of artifacts from the Paleolithic age through the present day (not to mention an assortment of 40,000 year old stone tools!). The museum houses a large collections of Roman and Byzantine era mosaics that were unearthed not too far from the museum. Give yourself at least two hours to properly explore this extensive museum.

Church of St. Peter

This church, caved into the side of a mountain is one of the world’s oldest Christian churches. Peter (and Paul) visited Antakya and is believed to be where he began preaching. Though the inside of the church was restored in the 20th century you can see some original elements that remain such as sections of mosaic on the floors. Dripping water near the alter is said to having healing properties. The Church of St. Peter is only 1.5km from Hatay’s Archeological Museum, so it’s possible to walk to one from the other and make a half day trip of both destinations.

Takeaway

Hatay is a culturally diverse city that stands out from the rest of Turkey. The Arabic influence is more pronounced in this beautiful region that other parts of the country-Don’t let its shared border with Syria worry you. If you have a favorite food or restaurant in Hatay that we did not mention please include it in the comments below.

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justacuptohitthespot · 6 years

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Omar Restaurante- Turkish tea

I’ve definitely tried Turkish tea before, but never thought to blog about it. I honestly thought it was just a black tea, but it is something in itself because of preparation and presentation (curved glass). The reason why I happened to have it today was because M ordered it for us on our third date. He had studied in Istanbul and it had been awhile since he ate good Turkish food. Of course, since we live in Madrid, I figured that it wouldn’t be impossible to find a decent place, and luckily Omar Restaurante came close to meeting his expectations. We ordered baklava, which I’m familiar with, for dessert, but then I encouraged him to ask about the kunefe*. He was afraid to because it wasn’t on the menu, but I figured that if it’s an authentic Turkish restaurant, and you know your way around Turkish food, they would be accommodating. To our delight, they agreed to make it for us, and it was exactly what he was looking for.

*”Kunefe is made from a stretchy, unsalted fresh melting cheese called hatay found only in this region—mozzarella would be the closest Western analogue. The cheese is coated in sugar syrup-soaked phyllo shreds called kadayıf (the same ones used to make some varieties of baklava, as described above), and fried until crisp. Its appeal is the contrasting textures of the crunchy exterior against the soft, melty interior. It can be topped with pistachios” (Serious Eats).

Rating:

Taste: sweet but good… 3/5

Service: very good… 4/5

Price: overall for the food, good… 4/5

Calle Prof. Waksman, 11, 28036 Madrid

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weditchthemap · 4 years

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An Illustrative Guide to Turkish Food - The Foods You Need to Try in Turkey!

Turkish Cuisine

With so many different regions and climates, you can find a variety of mouthwatering dishes throughout Turkey. In the west you’ll find dishes graced with a generous dousing of olive oil. Along the Mediterranean coast you’ll find ocean fresh fish. Ubiquitously throughout you’ll find a bountiful selection of yogurts, cheeses, meat-centric dishes and kebabs, all pleasantly off-set with abundant fresh vegetables and meze plates. Turkish cuisine has been shaped and refined since the days of the Ottoman Empire. It blends flavors and spices from Asia, the Middle East, and Eastern Europe. Whether eating in a locals home or a restaurant, you'll be met with the utmost display of hospitality. It’s not unlikely that you’ll be offered a glass of tea with the invitation to sit and linger. In Turkey, food is the ultimate source of uniting with and celebrating the company of others. A meal is more than a meal; it’s a display of love. Needless to say, we fell in love with the cuisine of Turkey. The country is a culinary paradise. In fact, the food is so varied and tasty that it’s recognized as one of the best cuisines in the world. Below you’ll find a guide of the Turkish foods that we had the pleasure of trying. While this is by no means an exhaustive guide, it’s a good place to get acquainted with the cuisine. Afiyet olsun!

Fruit

Fresh Fruit is celebrated in Turkey. The moment a new fruit is in season it pops up everywhere making its way to fruit stalls near and far. We were told that if the branch of a fruit tree extends into public space it’s generally acceptable to pick it. If you can pick it, you can eat it! This is how we discovered tasty green figs and white mulberries.

New World Fruit or loquat, is sweet, a bit sour, and wholly delicious. It’s very soft and juicy when ripe. Despite the off-putting brown speckles you can eat the skin. Watch out for the large seeds inside - the number of seeds varies without reason.

Erik this interesting fruit is actually an unripe plum. It’s tart and crunchy. There isn’t much flesh to enjoy on each so best to grab a handful of this sour fruit to snack on.

Watermelon when in season this seems to be the only thing anyone wants to eat. Not to mention, it’s super refreshing in the hot weather. Served with a crumbly cheese, it can be eaten for breakfast, lunch, or a snack.

Figs ripe or dried, green or purple, Turkey has the best figs in the world. We are so grateful that we visited while they were in season!

Desserts

Baklava and Turkish delight might be the first desserts that come to mind when thinking about Turkish sweets, but there are so many more treats to try. Many Turkish desserts are doused in a sweet sugary syrup. When paired with bitter Turkish coffee it’s a match made in heaven.

Dondurum, or Turkish ice cream is impossible to miss. Omnipresent ice cream venders wave their serving spoons, spin their ice cream in the air, and chant to get your attention (click here to watch). Because dondurma is made with mastic gum the ice cream takes on an elasticity and is pliable enough to endure the venders “ice cream performances.” The texture of dondurma is so firm that when it’s served on a plate it’s served with a knife- a spoon would bend!

Tulumba Tatlisi is essentially a Turkish doughnut. These small ribbed treats are deep friend and coated in an irresistibly sweet syrup. They’re perfectly crispy on the outside, chewy in the middle, and highly addicting.

Bici Bici - a firm milk and cornstarch pudding that’s doused in highlighter pink rose petal syrup and topped with shaved ice or ice cream - it’s a light floral dessert that’s refreshing in hot weather.

Baklava - the Turkish people take pride in baklava and are quick correct the misconception that baklava originated in Greece. Turkish baklava is made by sandwiching nuts between layers of filo dough and coating the filo in butter and syrup or honey. Don’t miss the baklava in Gaziantep, which is famous for its pistachio version.

Sütlaç is a milky rice pudding that gets a nice caramelized crust from baking. The crispy crust balances the creamy pudding perfectly.

Traditional Turkish Lokum - chewy sweet cubes with a texture similar to (but better than) a gum drop. The flavors are mild and fruity, but mostly sweet. A few cubes of lokum are traditionally served along side Turkish coffee.

Lokum - Turkish delight on sterids or what we call “Turkish Sushi.” This Turkish delight is rolled and stuffed with all sorts of fillings - fruit, chocolate, and hazelnut cream to name a few. The variety of flavors is impressive and the rolled logs look like pieces of art, especially when adorned with rose petals and pistachio powder. Tip: in a Turkish delight shop you can essentially try any type of lokum you’d like - shops are very generous with samples. But be warned, a sugar-high is inevitable.

Mosaic Pasta a simple but delightful ganache-like chocolate cake. It has a dense and fudgy chocolate base with crumbled biscuits mixed inside. Mosaic pasta pretty much checks all of our boxes for the perfect dessert. It’s easy to make and even easier to eat.

Cevizli Sucuk or walnut sausage, is a link of threaded walnuts that’s been dipped into fruit molasses. When the molasses dries it hardens on the outside and leaves a paste-like consistency on the inside. This odd looking dessert sausage is chewy but not overly sweet.

Güllaç - in this special Ramadan dessert rice starch sheets are layered with walnuts, soaked in a milk rose water solution and garnished with pistachio. It’s a bit…gooey.

İrmik helvası - simple ingredients combine to make this quick and easy dessert. Semolina, butter, sweetened milk, and pine nuts create İrmik helvası, also called semolina halva. It’s moist, sweet and divine with ice cream.

Kaymaklı Kuru Kayısı dried apricots are rehydrated (sometimes candied) and filled with a creamy water buffalo cheese. These stuffed apricots are a satisfying end to a meal. They’re savory with a hint of sweetness.

Kadayif this dense syrup coated dessert can be found all over, but it’s most famous in Diyarbakir. A few bites will satisfy even the most insatiable sweet tooth. Shredded strands of filo dough are filled with walnuts, baked and doused in a sugary syrup. The sweetness of this dessert really demands to be offset with coffee.

Acibadem - these almond cookies fall somewhere between a chewy caramelized macaron and meringue. They’re crispy on the outside, stretchy on the inside, and perfect with coffee.

Halva - a crumbly and slightly gritty dessert made of sweetened tahini paste.

Kabak Tatlisi - a candied pumpkin dessert.

Pismanye or “fairy floss” is a cotton candy-like dessert made with butter and flour. It’s curious looking and resembles golden strands of hair more than dessert. At first glance it doesn’t appear edible!

Breads

Ekmek is the Turkish word for bread and it’s a handy word to know. Bread is a staple in the Turkish diet. It’s served with every meal. People line up at bakeries each morning to purchase their fresh supply for the day.

Ramazan Pide - a flat, circular bread made fresh daily during Ramadan. Ramazan pide has a crispy crust and a doughy middle. The top has a sprinkle of sesame seeds and black cumin.

Lahmacun (the letter “c” makes a “j” sound in Turkish, so lah-ma-jun) a thin flat bread painted with a layer of spicy minced meat. It’s served with a side of herbs and greens - place your desired condiments on top, roll or fold the lahmacun and enjoy. Super satisfying and super cheap.

Lavaş (in Turkish ş is pronunced “sh” so, lavash) is served fresh and hot at kebab houses. It comes out full of steam and puffed up like a balloon but deflates as it cools. It’s the perfect tool for scooping up a variety of mezze dips.

Borek - a savory, flaky, stuffed pastry with an assortment of fillings like meat, cheese, spinach, or potato. This hearty pastry Is eaten for breakfast, lunch or a snack.

Gozleme A thin savory pancake that can be filled with potatoes, meat, cheese, or spinach. Similar to a crepe. Popular in Antolia. Click to watch a gozleme being made.

Biberli Ekmek - we found this red pepper paste bread in Hatay, where the cuisine is strongly influenced by it’s arabic neighbor, Syria. The spicy, salty pepper paste is spread over an unleavened flat bread that’s cooked in a tandoor.

Pide - boat shaped Turkish “pizza'“ with all types of toppings. Delicious.

Bazlama - a thick circular flatbread. It’s a traditional “village” style bread that’s been made for ages.

Breakfast

Traditional Turkish Breakfast loosen your belt buckle, the traditional Turkish breakfast is a feast. It includes a little bit of everything delicious - olives, cheeses galore, fresh jams and honey, fried eggs, breads, tomatoes, cucumber, parsley, arugula, tahini mixed with grape or pomegranate molasses (think Turkish PB&J), fruits…and more!

Simit- a seasame bread loop, similar to, but not quite as doughy as, a bagel. A cheap and quick breakfast or snack on the go.

Hatay Simit - we found this oversized version of a simit in Hatay. Eat it for breakfast on the go or wear it as a necklace and save it for later?

Menemen the Turkish version of scrambled eggs kicked up a notch with the addition of peppers and tomatoes. Served pipping hot in a skillet with a side of bread.

Katmer - this breakfast pastry is a must try in Gaziantep. This sweet flaky pastry is painted with copious amounts of butter and filled with clotted cream (kaymak), sugar, and pistachios (click to watch a video of it being made). It’s folded into a tidy square and sliced for sharing. Bring a friend - it’s way too rich for only one.

Soups

Corba Mercimek- a comforting, belly warming lentil soup. Served with lemon, crushed red pepper and herbs to customize your bowl. I never knew soup could be so satisfying! Luckily this lentil soup is served at just about every restaurant in Turkey.

Işkembe çorbası - a garlicy flavorful tripe soup for those who don’t mind offal. Some claim that it cures a hangover.

Mezzes

Meze - an assortment of small dishes eaten before (or for) a meal: think dips (spicy or creamy), salads, pickled vegetables, cheese, olives, oils, beans, bread, bite size fried treats, and more. Mezes can be hot or cold. Ordering a meze platter is a great way to sample a variety of foods.

Yaprak Sarma brined and cooked grape leaves rolled and filled with rice, herbs and sometimes ground meat.

Ezme a tasty spicy tomato dip sometimes served complimentary at the beginning of a meal.

Dolma stuffed, baked veggies.

Turkish Staples

Cheeses – this dairy-loving nation is home to a mind-blowing variety of cheeses.

Nuts - walnuts, cashews, almonds - you name it, Turkey has it. Pistachios are so prized in Turkey that the city of Gaziantep is named for the nut.

Olives - countless varieties, endless colors and flavors; Turkey elevates the olive to a new level.

Dried fruits are ubitqous in Turkey and make a great snack. The dried figs and apricots are especially delicious.

Yogurt - rich, creamy, plain, and unsweetened - the way yogurt should be! Turkish people use yogurt in mezes, drinks, dips, and sauces.

Street Food & Snacks

Midye Dolma super popular street snack (even, questionably, in places that are not on the coast?) These mussels are stuffed with herbed rice and served with a squeeze of lemon. Scott’s favorite snack.

Roasted Chestnuts - sweet and nutty, served warm and fresh on the street.

Kumpir - A big ol’ baked potato cooked with butter and cheese and customized to your liking. Select from a variety of toppings - Russian salad, dips, olives, ketchup, mayonnaise, carrots, corn, mezzes, salads…and more.

Breakfast Sandwich - the Turkish breakfast on a roll.

Cig Kofte - meatless spicy bulgur “meatballs” served with herbs, lemon, and pomegranate molasses. They can be wrapped in a lettuce leaf or a flatbread. Historically theses meatballs were made with raw meat but that practice has since been banned. Click here to watch as cig kofte is prepared.

Roasted Corn a popular street snack. Also popular - steamed corn kernels served in a cup with butter and spices, yum.

Drinks

Mirra Coffee - We found this speciality drink in Urfa. It’s a thimble-sized glass of super concentrated coffee. What it lacks in flavor in makes up for with a jolt of energy. Fittingly its name comes from the Arabic word “mur” for bitter.

Dibek Coffee named for the dibek stone that was once used to grind the beans. The ground coffee is often served sweet with a hint of cardamom.

Menengic Coffee isn’t actually coffee at all, it’s a hot drink made from roasted pistachio nuts that are ground into a paste and cooked with milk…an interesting non-cafeinated coffee alternative.

Çay- pronounced ‘chai’ is black tea that’s served in a tulip shaped glassed with sugar cubes. Çay has a special place in Turkish culture. People connect and socialize over tea. It’s offered as a display of hospitality and drank several times throughout the day. Tea houses can be found on almost every street.

Turkish Kahve or Turkish coffee is made with coffee ground into a powder. It’s served in a small glass and is strong and gritty toward the bottom of the cup. It can be served plain or sweetened and often a square or two of Turkish delight is served along side.

Zahter Tea we found this flavorful thyme tea in Gaziantep.

Raki - a liqour made with distilled grapes and anise. Served with chilled water or ice. When mixed with water the liquor turns white which explains why it’s also called “lion’s milk.”

Ayran this salted, watered-down yogurt drink is the drink of choice with kebab. It tastes like…salted yogurt.

Meyan Şerbeti - this drink can be found on the backs of street venders. It’s prepared with the roots of a licorice plant. It has a unique and bitter taste. Definitely an acquired taste, but worth a try. Supposedly it’s good for treating coughs and other bronchial ailments.

Salgam a salty bright red concoction of fermented black, purple, or red carrots with pepper juice. This unsweetened beverage is popular alongside kebap.

Salep - a hot, milky drink made from a powder that’s produced from orchid bulbs.

Kebaps, Meat Dishes & Meals

Çöp Kebap oddly enough translates to “garbage” kebap. Consists of small scraps of meat and bits of fat put on a skewered and cooked to perfection. Don’t be put off by the name!

Urfa Kebap looks similar to, but not to be confused with, the Adana kebap. Both kebabs are made of ground beef (sometimes mixed with ground lamb), garlic, onions and spices, and hand molded onto a skewer. The Urfa kebap is the mild, the Adana kebap is spicy- it’s mixed with red pepper and paprika.

Şiş Kebap (ş is pronounced ‘sh’ so shish kebap) chunks of meat on a skewer, sometimes with vegetables in between, roasted over a flame.

Iskender Kebap - grilled lamb sliced thin, coated in a spicy tomato based sauce, and served with a side of buttery yogurt. Rich, heavy, and satisfying.

Dalak Kebap grilled sheep spleen…a bit tough and chewy. Popular in Turkey’s southeastern region.

Manti - Turkish ravioli - little handmade meat-filled pouches topped with tomato sauce and cheese.

Doner Kebap - traditionally doner kebap is lamb meat that’s cooked on a vertical rotisserie. Thin slices are shaved off with a knife and packed into a flat bread with tomatoes, onions, lettuce, french fries and sauces.

Eggplant Kebap - kofta (meatballs) sandwiched between thick slices of egg plant grilled on a skewer

Güveç is popular in the east of Turkey, essentially it’s Turkish casserole

Oruk Icli Kofte - an oblong meat patty encased in a crispy fried bulgur shell.

Testi Kebap, or clay pot kebap, is a stew of meat and vegetables cooled in a sealed pot. To serve, the clay pot is shattered at the table.

Çiğercisi Kebap - fried liver kebab is a regional specialty from Diyarbakır. It’s served with cooked and raw onions, tomatoes, peppers, parsley, lemon and bread

Köfte are essentially meatballs or any handmade patty of ground lamb, beef or or chicken mixed with spices, bread and egg. They come in all shapes and sizes and can be grilled, pan fried, broiled, stewed.

Accompaniments

Pilav- you can’t go wrong with a side of buttered rice. Sometimes served with a handful of chic peas.

Salata- a fresh plate of salad or vegetables is just about mandatory at a Turkish meal. Light and fresh veggies offset the hearty dishes.

Bulgur -a tasty nutty ancient grain that’s packed with fiber.

Taze Fasülye - a very common side dish made with braised green beans, tomatoes and a heavy-handed pour of olive oil. A bit textureless if you ask me.

Pul Beiber & Lemon Wedges - a Turkish table wouldn’t be complete without a shaker of crushed red pepper flakes and lemon for a tough zesty citrus.

Can’t get enough Turkish food? Take a cooking class in Istanbul!

Enamored by Turkish foods, we were eager to learn more about the cuisine and get our hands dirty preparing some of the dishes we’d come to love. We signed up for a half day cooking course with Turkish Flavours Cooking Classes & Food Tours. It’s owned by Selin, a travel agent turned cooking teacher. She possesses a wealth of knowledge about Turkey and its food. We started the day with a visit to the Spice Bazaar where we sample local treats. After, Selin invited us into her home like old friends. We sipped wine and crafted delicious Turkish specialities like stuffed grape levels, ezme, taze fasülye, and kaymaklı kuru kayısı. We shared the delightful feast with our classmates. The experience was incredibly professional, the food was phenomenal, and the company was excellent. We left with full bellies and a better understanding of Turkish food and the culture surrounding it. Check out Selin’s classes and tours at https://www.turkishflavours.com.

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atravellingfoodie · 5 years

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The Istanbul Hidden Beyoğlu food tour explores the cosmopolitan European Quarter neighbourhoods in the district formerly known as Pera. From the steep narrow streets of Cihangir to the covered lanes and markets of Istiklal Caddesi and the adjacent streets, we explored the food culture in Istanbul.

Although many of the immigrant communities have long left the city, the aromas of regional cuisines from the Black Sea in the Northeast to Hatay and Gaziantep in the Southeast fill the air as one walks along the narrow streets and lanes.

If this is your first trip to Istanbul then you may want to read my Istanbul travel guide and about the other food tours I have taken in the city in my Culinary Backstreets food tours roundup. I fell in love with city nearly 20 years ago during my first visit and have returned on numerous occasions over the years. There is so much culture, history and incredible cuisine within the city limits that you will have much to do whether you are on a 3 day stopover or a longer visit.

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How to book an Istanbul Beyoğlu food tour

The Istanbul Hidden Beyoğlu food tour was the second tour that I booked directly on the Culinary Backstreets website for our family trip with my brother and Simone. The tour cost cost US$ 125 per person at the time of booking but we received a 10 percent “Welcome Back! Discount” available for return customers.

The website indicates that the tour lasts for 5.5 hours but it may take a bit longer if the group is small and the tour leader shows you their favorite places to purchase authentic Turkish products.

Where does the Istanbul Beyoğlu food tour take place

The meeting place for the Istanbul Hidden Beyoğlu food tour was by the side of a very popular mosque (Firüzağa Cami) and restaurant in Cihangir. We were staying in Beyoğlu at the Nuru Ziya suites and it appeared to be a short walk from our hotel.

This Istanbul walking tour covers the neighbourhood of Cihangir and the backstreets, alleys and covered passages on either side of Istiklal Street.

It took much longer than expected to reach the meeting point because the terrain on the route was sometimes downhill and at other times uphill. The final stretch was all uphill and really tested my endurance and resolve as my knee joints felt as if they were going to break. My brother was counting down the meters until we reached our destination and reminded me that I had pushed through worse pain and discomfort over the years.

To get an idea of the area or to check rates and availability for accommodation in Beyoğlu, you may use the map below.

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Highlights of the Istanbul Beyoğlu food tour

Özkonak Lokantası – Kılıçali Paşa Mh., Akarsu Ykş. No:46, 34433 Beyoğlu

Our first stop on the Istanbul Beyoğlu food tour was not the large cafe where we met our Tour leader Benoit, but a smaller lokanta or tradesman’s restaurant further down the road.

Here we enjoyed our first bites of the day consisting of a typical Turkish egg breakfast of bal kaymak (clotted cream with honey), Turkish bread and eggs Menemen (scrambled eggs with tomato, onions and chili). It was nearly 10 am and we were famished so this was a very good start to the day. Had we known what was to follow we would have been less enthusiastic.

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Home breakfast hosted by Hanni Karadaş – Beyoğlu Central Greek High School

As we winded our way up a steep hill, Benoit informed us that he had a surprise stop for breakfast. This was not a standard stop on the tour as the family who hosted the breakfast were sometimes in their home city of Hatay in the South. Just that morning he was able to reach the hostess, Hanni Karadaş.

We found our breakfast spot at Beyoğlu Central Greek High School, a private school established in 1850 that ceased operations about twenty years ago. The school became unviable due to falling numbers of residents of Greek ancestry and could no longer operate as a viable institution. To prevent the building becoming derelict, the administrators appointed Enver and his wife Hanni, as custodians and caretakers.

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Over the past two decades the building has become increasingly dilapidated with rotten ceilings where the rain has poured in, peeling walls and a crumbling exterior. Estimates to rehabilitate and restore the property are in excess of 200 million Turkish lira. Inside, Enver has transformed a few of the ground floor classrooms into a warm and cosy residence with a kitchen, bedrooms, a bathroom and living room.

It was in the kitchen / dining room where we tasted the fruits of Hanni’s labour over the summer. Plump home made preserves, pickles, spicy dips and flavorful spreads made with pomegranate molasses made with fruit from their own orchards, served alongside olives from their own grove in their home town of Hatay. Their city is located in the far south of the country very close to the border with Syria. I was quite surprised that the mother tongue of our hosts was not Turkish or Greek, but Arabic.

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Suat Usta Mersin Tantuni – Katip Mustafa Çelebi Mahallesi, Tel Sk. No:1, 34433 Beyoğlu

We walked to the end of the block and turned down a charming narrow street before reaching this casual takeaway restaurant that specialises in Tantuni. Tantuni is a speciality spicy dürüm or wrap consisting of yufka or lavash flat bread filled with sliced or chopped meats fried with onions, green peppers, tomatoes and fresh parsley. It is finished off with pickled chilis and a squeeze of lemon juice.

I had never heard of or tasted it before and was transfixed watching the cook behind the shop window as he cut and fried strips of meat for the filling. In this chain they use only the best quality steak for the filling and bake their lavash in a wood burning tandir oven every day.

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Hayvore (Karadeniz Mutfağı) – Kuloğlu Mh., Turnacıbaşı Sok. No:4, 34433 Beyoğlu

I had tasted a breakfast dish called Kuymak from the Black Sea region on the Uskudar leg of the Istanbul Born on the Bosphorus food tour on my previous trip and could not get enough of it. It was a buttery, cheesy hot cornmeal concoction into which we dipped chunks of corn bread. I salivate even now remembering how simple yet delicious it was. Kuymak is not to be confused with Kaymak (buffalo milk clotted cream) that is also served for breakfast.

At Hayvore we were treated to a variety of unique Black Sea specialities including gooey Kuymak with slices of corn bread, Kaygana (a herb and anchovy studded omelette), dolma (stuffed grape leaves) and pickled fava beans and anchovies.

The owner, Hızır Keskin, worked and managed restaurants for 15 years before he decided to open his own place specialising in Black Sea cuisine. He realised that was not very well represented in the Istanbul hospitality offerings.

By the time we left Hayvore we felt stuffed to the gills and looked forward to taking a long walk to İstiklâl Avenue to recover.

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İstiklâl Caddesi – Independence Avenue

This elegant pedestrianised avenue stretches for 1.6 km’s from Karaköy in the South to Taksim square in the North end. It is lined with boutique hotels, churches, cafes, restaurants, museums, art galleries, theaters and covered passages and shopping galleries.

The most famous is Çiçek Pasajı (originally called Cité de Péra) and known as the Flower Passage after the flower shops that occupied it by the 1940’s. In 1988 it was restored to it’s former glory and re-opened as a galleria of high end restaurants. Benoit, our tour leader, warned us to steer clear as it was an expensive tourist trap with very mediocre offerings.

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Our next stop was at a food cart in front of one of the buildings where we sampled roasted sheep head. The meat was still warm, beautifully seasoned with herbs and expertly carved by the cart owner.

We walked in the covered lanes and narrow pedestrian streets around the block housing Çiçek Pasajı smelling the grilled meats and freshly baked breads, and salivating over counters full of freshly made salads. Regrettably we were still too full to eat any of it.

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Midyetik – Hüseyinağa Mahallesi, Kamer Hatun Cd. D:no 12, 34435 Beyoğlu

Our next few stops were all in the Hüseyinağa neighbourhood. Located on a corner of a building was this colorful small kiosk / shop that specialises in Midye Dolma or Turkish style mussels stuffed with spiced rice, pine nuts and currants. Every mussel was one perfect bite; spicy, flavorful, aromatic with a crunch from the pine nuts and a touch of sweetness from currants.

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Arıoğulları Petek Turşuları – Hüseyinağa Mahallesi, Dudu Odaları Sk. 1/D, 34435 Beyoğlu

Around the corner from Midyetik in an alley connecting Galatasaray to Balik Pazari (the fish market), was this pickle shop that seemed to have every vegetable or fruit that could be pickled on it’s shelves. We tried the crunchy carrots and piquant small peppers. The shop is frequented by locals who stock up on their pickles, preserves and pomegranate molasses.

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Sakarya Tatlıcısı – Hüseyinağa Mahallesi, Dudu Odaları Sk. No:3, Balik Pazari, 34435 Beyoğlu

This dessert shop is on the same block as the pickle shop and was the location for a welcome afternoon pick me up. We savored the chocolate baklava, walnut baklava and a rolled pistachio baklava. They had a wide variety of traditional Turkish sweets from desserts to small cakes and phyllo pastries soaked in sugar syrup. The beautiful desserts were fresh and not sickly sweet and we washed them down with cups of Turkish tea.

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Kibbeh cart from Sabirtasi Restaurant – near Passage Hazzopulo entrance in İstiklâl Caddesi

The restaurant specialises in icli köfte and manti (spicy stuffed meatballs encased in bulgur and ravioli like pasta) and is located inside the passage. We sampled the kibbeh from the cart outside on the main road. It was much larger than Middle Eastern kibbeh and had a wonderfully tender yet crispy bulgur shell and minced meat filling. It was hands down the best kibbeh I’ve ever had and more spicy than I expected.

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Mandabatmaz – Asmalı Mescit Mahallesi, Olivia Geçidi 1/A, 34430 Beyoğlu

I actually saw this place in a travel show on tv and was pleasantly surprised when we entered the small shop with cosy seating along the walls and framed artwork and decades old newspaper articles lauding it’s Turkish coffee.

Their brewers follow a slow and deliberate ritual for brewing the best cup of Turkish coffee every single time. They don’t boil it for too long to ensure it doesn’t get bitter and never reheat cold coffee.

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We sat and chatted for a while and Benoit told us a bit about how he came to be in Istanbul. I discovered that his wife was related to Iris, the chef / guide who led the Turkish cooking class that I participated in on my previous solo trip. After coffee he showed us a few of the shops in the area selling authentic artisanal Turkish products.

Verdict

This was my fourth food tour in Istanbul and there were still regional specialities to discover like Tantuni from Mersin and Kaygana from Trabzon on the Black Sea coast. The visit to the home of Enver and Hanni Karadaş at the old Greek school was the highlight of the tour. Even though she spoke little English and we spoke no Turkish, her genuine warmth and hospitality were heartwarming. Her smile lit up her eyes when she saw how smitten we were with her home made organic pickles, preserves and cheeses. She allowed me to buy some of her prized pomegranate molasses, that she made in huge cauldrons over open fires during the summer in her home town, and fresh sumac powder from the shrubs on their property.

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Istanbul food tour – Hidden Beyoğlu The Istanbul Hidden Beyoğlu food tour explores the cosmopolitan European Quarter neighbourhoods in the district formerly known as Pera.

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