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number (n)ine aw09 “fuck me i’m tired” t-shirt
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hysteric glamour skull shirt with shoulder cutout
interesting and somewhat basic hysteric glamour tee. not entirely sure what year this is from but i’m guessing mid to late 00’s. i’m a sucker for anything with blatant punk influences, and i do really appreciate the shoulder cutout. it adds an uncommon and feminine touch to a very in-your-face item.
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recently, i have become aware of (and subsequently obsessed with) a brand by the name of KIDILL. i think what drew me in most about them is their unapologetically strong influence from japanese and british punk fashion. distressed elements, tarnished chains, and contrasting patches are prevalent components throughout most of their shows. the occasional item will remind me of a picture i’ve seen of punks in the late 90’s / early 00’s. there are also a lot of things about some of KIDILL’s older works that are reminiscent of early hysteric glamour. again, this is probably because of heavy punk influences, but hysteric glamour have calmed down somewhat as they’ve aged as a collective.
i found out about KIDILL in the same way that i’ve found out about so many of my now favourite designers; by mindlessly scrolling through ssense until i find something that resonates with me. in this case, the item that first caught my eye was a pair of trousers made in collaboration with dickies; half black, half pink, adorned with zips galore. from there i of course found the rest of the items from that collaboration, and then all of the KIDILL pieces i could.
one of my favourite details featured in quite a few items by KIDILL is a patch or print of a g¡mp mask. it’s very simple but can add a lot to an item. it’s just a small, subtle reference to quite a taboo topic.
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sorry i haven’t posted in ages. mental health has been rapidly declining but i’m back on my bullshit anyways. post coming about kidill at some point soon maybe idk we’ll see
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yohji yamamoto ss18
this beautiful backpack was featured in yohji yamamoto’s ss18 show, accompanied by the outfit in the pictures. i was going to refer to this backpack as an accent piece, but it would be more fittingly referred to as a statement.
this incredibly simple, all black outfit was used to properly show off the bag, making sure no other part of the ensemble would steal the show. i think this method of demonstrating your work is becoming less and less popular, with some designers leaning more towards maximalism, and others trying to showcase as many items at once as possible. luckily, i doubt we will ever be able to dub yohji yamamoto as a maximalist.
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keewon shin ss20
i only recently heard about this designer and thought i just couldn’t pass up the opportunity to document these insectoid ensembles. their inspiration behind their work so far is an old sci-fi novel called “the old man’s war”. the novel is about an organisation that combines humans with robots to create humanoids, who are tasked with pioneering space in search of a planet to act as a replacement for earth. i haven’t read it but i now intend to, based off of the book’s description and these outfits created as an ode to it.
it’s almost reminiscent of post archive faction in terms of colour use (or lack of) and the abnormal and technical materials.
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just tested positive for covid lmao. might try and queue up some posts while i’m off work
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takahiro miyashita aka thesoloist aw18
i will forever be in love with this terrifying and somewhat morbid mask (/tote bag), designed and released by takahiro miyashita.
this whole collection seems very post apocalyptic and damning, with most pieces serving as some sort of face covering or being built around the idea of functionality over fashion. take this as an example of that. this is a pretty simple seeming tote bag that can be transformed quickly into a full head covering, equipped with goggles and filtered ventilation holes.
honestly, the focus on functionality and post apocalypticism is probably why i love miyashita’s work so much. i’ve grown up playing bethesda’s ‘fallout’ games so seeing things like this in the fashion world is so cool to me.
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craig green insulated jacket
i’m not sure on the year but it seems very 2017 for craig green. i’m a big fan of craig green’s simpler works, like this, because even though it’s on the simpler side, it still has very interesting and uncommon features. what i’m talking about is the extended left hand pocket, the oversized belt, and of course the tail-like strap that comes off of the belt. i also very much like the over extended neck strap - not entirely sure why but i find it comforting.
really not too much to say about this so my apologies. just liked it too much not to share it.
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gaining followers, slowly but surely. thank you to everyone who has followed so far, i’m really enjoying seeing this page grow.
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idaliina friman
idaliina friman is a young and promising BA graduate, who designed this intriguing and innovative collection. when asked about the inspiration for her work, idaliina said this: “my bachelor thesis is a womenswear collection inspired by the life of my great grandfather. a large part of my research material consists of personal archive pictures of my great grandparents venturing the lapland’s fells and wilderness.”.
i appreciate this insight greatly, as we can assume the clothes her great grandparents wore were made mostly for warmth and functionality. idaliina has managed to make her work emulate that, while refusing to compromise on the exploration of form and femininity.
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undercover for comme des garçons 2006.
“we make noise not clothes”. a slogan undercover have been using consistently for roughly the last 20 years. i’m sure you can find countless interpretations for this phrase if you wanted to, but i do not. i think this can mean different things for everyone depending on their view of the fashion world or the wider world and life in general. if you see this and would like to share your understanding of it, please do.
to me it means that they strive to create a conversation or a controversy; that their clothes are not just clothes but serve just as a medium for something bigger than undercover.
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the haunting yet beautiful work of @/distorted.esc
@/distorted.esc (on instagram) has carefully hand crafted these somewhat nightmarish face coverings, and i thought they were too impressive and interesting to not share. i haven’t followed them for long but i am a big supporter and would love to own one of these harrowing creations.
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susan fang
susan fang is a wonderful designer whose work mainly revolves around the representation of both emotion and beauty in fashion. beautifully layered tulle, silk, and lace layers combine together to create extravagant and ethereal silhouettes. the small splashes of colour throughout her works are intended to show emotion and to accentuate the shapes and materials used to construct these gorgeous items of clothing.
i haven’t followed susan fang for long but i am excited to see them progress and create even more works of art like these.
images via @/mannequinw on instagram.
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thierry mugler 2019
i have very little to say about these honestly. i’m just a massive fan of these and i have been searching for a pair in my size ever since they first released.
the addition of the zips on both the front and back adds a nice little silver highlight that a lot of parachute/bomber pants like these actually lack. they also obviously allow the wearer to pick between a loose or tighter fit. i am a massive fan of the ruched/bungee detail as well, as it adds texture and some slightly more complex layers. i hope you enjoy them as much as i do.
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think i might change my name on here but idk. i feel the need for a new alias.
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märchen studio aw21 “impossible possibility”
as far as i can tell, märchen studio’s first show was in 2016, but they stayed somewhat unknown until 2018. this was when one of their dresses went viral in china, boosting them into the forefront of the chinese fashion scene. their focus has primarily been on promoting femininity and simplicity in fashion. this focus has been sustained throughout their last 5 years of work, with every item encompassing at least one of these qualities.
i would love to tell you more about märchen studio and their history or inspiration or anything. unfortunately for me, their website gives very little detail about anything, save for a few phrases that i’m assuming are intended to serve as an explanation of their work.
that being said, i think their beautifully layered dresses and skirts speak for themselves more than i ever could; as do their somewhat simplistic pleats and ruffles. i’ll shut up now and let you study these pictures as i have.
their instagram, for anyone wondering, is @/marchenchen.
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