#unless you like looking at expensive production. whatever floats your boat i guess | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

sanstropfremir · 3 years

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I’d love your thoughts on BTS and their current image and music if you have them and aren’t afraid of the mindless internet hoards.

Personally, I liked a lot of their older stuff, but haven’t liked anything since I think the Fake Love promotions 3+ years ago. They’d started losing their personality and soul before that album cycle, but it feels like the sanitization of their image and artistry really kicked into hyperdrive after that. Now most of what they do seems like a sterile money grab driven by the Hybe hive mind which is a shame.

ok alrighty (cracks knuckles) let's get into it.

now that i've fully given myself a headache watching the majority of the bts videography, here are three points i'm going to cover:

performative character and the lack thereof

interesting aesthetics and the lack thereof, and

the inevitable cracking of perfection

ready, set, let's begin.

idol music is very clearly definited by spectacle based aesthetics. and it's had that structure for its entire existence. so i gotta hand it to hybe for this one, because they managed to revolutionize being utterly fucking average. the triumph of bts is that they're just some guys and they look like just some guys. hybe found a niche in the system and then gamed that system to the tune of one of the largest musical acts in the world. they're not marketing bts as a romantic parasocial relationship, they're marketing them as your friends. and that is just as insidious to lonely kids as a run of the mill romantic fantasy. but that's not what i'm here to talk about today.

there's a pattern i find very interesting with bts mvs and that is that i don't remember anything about them. specifically, i don't remember the stuff that's happening IN the video; not the styling, not the setpieces, if i didn't know the members i doubt i would remember them either. what i DO remember, is how expensive the production is, and specific shots. i couldn't tell you what a single member was wearing, but i sure as hell remember that first upward angle shot of jungkook and the rusted park ride in spring day. or every single time they do that birdseye shot of jin in like every video. honestly as far as i'm aware jin has only ever worn a loose fitting beige longsleeve shirt.

it took bts a long time to establish any kind of consistent visual character. and the character they did establish.... i don't know if you can call a family-friendly-style clean aesthetic 'character'. they debuted as a hip hop group to little (comparative) success, and then made a switch to doing an early version of where they're currently at right now. if you've seen any of the mvs, you know that this is a pretty significant visual change. i don't think it is inherently a bad change, since the visual branding for hiphop based groups always tips over into iffy terrritory, but it is dramatic enough and early enough that it doesn't strike me as a natural evolution. concept switch ups are common, but they usually work because the members have established a bit of character for themselves, used their performance abilities and presence to fit into a niche in the group. the idol mould is perfect for showcasing the performers; that's its function. the groups that are the most fun to watch are the ones with stage presence, the ones who know how to perform, who can act all the parts they need to play. and bts? 4/7 actual performers on a good day. in my personal opinion it's 2/7.

i'm gonna expand on what i said about jimin here (this is technically the first part of this series), because it does apply to the rest of the group on the whole:

and i think here is where we see the main crux of the difference between taemin and jimin as performers: taemin has both an artistic and an idol persona. we know and understand him to do solo work that has a separate artistic meaning to just him being an idol. even though this performance was pre-move, i would still say this applies, because he's hot off press your number, where he's acting in a story based mv. jimin on the other hand just has his idol persona. he's not known for creating the same kind of storytelling that taemin is.

bts has been very insistent on the image of the group as a single unit. despite having the size of fanbase and the revenue that would make any official solo debut a massive success, none of them have done any substantial solo work. this isn't artistically a problem, and i think it's very admirable of them to be so dedicated to the image and the legacy of the group, when that can be an uncommon trait in the industry. i do however, think it starts to become an issue when we want to discuss what the artistic visions and images of groups are. shinee taemin and solo taemin have two distinct artistic representations, and taemin himself will attest to that. it's the same with all the shinee members that have solo careers, and the same with other groups. jackson, bambam, yugyeom, and jaebeom's solo work is all very different from got7. yixing's solo work is very different from exo's. even the subunits within exo all have their own character (cbx and sc). kpop groups all ostensibly are trained under the same system, so why the disparity with bts? mostly, it's their brand of "authenticity." it's impossible to perform authentically, by the nature of performance as a medium it is unnatural, and tragically, not everyone is naturally interesting, or suited to performing: that's why the performing arts even exist in the first place. it required painstaking training to be good at performing; it is a complex set of skills and those skills are not learnt by "being authentic." being an idol is not just the singing, dancing, rapping; that's only half the work. you need to be able to act to be a compelling performer. pulling your true self and emotions out on stage every night is a fast track to burnout and psychological issues, there's plenty of evidence. the only member of bts of whom i can say for some certainty has a persona and a stage presence is jhope/hoseok, a) because he's kept up a very specific brand in the solo work that he has done, and b) he has actual dance training, not just kpop dance training. the rest of them may have the kpop dance and the kpop vocal training, but what they do not have is the ability to market themselves as compelling performers on stage. taehyung is the only other member i would hesitantly give a semblance of persona and ability to, but i think he stumbled onto that mostly by accident. and if all the pieces don't each have a distinctive colour, how can the whole machine be visually interesting?

bts may never have been able to establish an aesthetic brand, but what they did establish is an intellectual one. if you talk to a fan, the schtick they give is that "it's about the lyrics." as noble as having an intellectual or cerebral message is, what does that look like? how do you portray intellectual on stage, on film? what about intellectual is interesting to watch? cerebral, by it's literal nature as a descriptor, is very difficult to communicate in visual language because it is internal. to successfully communicate cerebrality and intellect in a short form medium like music videos requires a deft hand with metaphor that can elude even an experienced designer. and honestly? i don't know whether to applaud hybe's visual team for being the most successful subtle contemporary designers i've every seen, or to decry them as worst kpop designers i've ever seen. maybe both. regardless, i don't think they're able to cross the gap.

there are exactly four mvs where i actually remember the content of the mv and not the frame it sits in, and those are dna, idol, the singularity comeback trailer with taehyung, and war of hormone. and of an eight year career......that's not very many. these four mvs have at least an inkling of interesting spectacle and character, but even then, it's still a stretch. there is absolutely nothing to write home about in the styling for dna, other than it's well colour matched. I don't even know if I should include singularity because it involves none of the other members. idol is probably their most interesting mv because it actually has alternative styling and varies (at least a little bit) from the standard hybe boom crane shot-that-shows-off-how-we-can-afford-big-studio-spaces-and-locations. the company and the group would be loathe to admit it, but war of hormone is a well designed and interesting mv for the time it was made, with a well crafted gimmick and some actual showing of character from the members. it was the start of a potential that they squashed quite quickly because it wasn't picking up in the hiphop-group-saturated market of 2014. but the rest of their mvs? remarkably uninspired styling. like it's truly impressive how boring the styling is. and like i've said, that is the triumph in their aesthetics: they all look like normal dudes (if you had professional skin + makeup techs looking after them for the last 8 years).

all of this is a carefully crafted image that's tailored to hooking an audience, especially an international one. the mvs are boring in the relative scale of kpop, but they're just different enough from a western pop mv to catch attention. and once you do sink a hook, there's a direct clickfunnel of content that bills itself on these men being "authentic" and "self-producing," which is a huge draw to international fans, because people are racist and believe that the kpop industry is a factory that produces idols like clones, where none of them know how to do anything other than sing and dance and all the music is just handed to them by companies. and they have SO much content that there's no way a new fan can get to it all in a timely manner, so they'll never have to engage with any other kpop artists' work if they don't actively seek it out. but that's another essay for another time.

that brings us to current day, in which at least the last five bts releases have been in the same aesthetic vein of positive, sanitized, and pristine. i said it in one of my txt responses and i will say it again here: money scrubs the humanity from the aesthetic of living. minimalism is for rich white people. hybe and bts may have pivoted their style and brand directly into the lane of mass appeal, but when you pair that with the amount of money funding them, there's a cognitive dissonance between the message and the aesthetics in which it's portrayed. some people do like the clean cut looks, and i won't say that they don't work, but as you've likely gleaned from this response, it isn't my style and if you've been around and reading my writing for longer you'll know that my tastes runs much closer to the messy and the weird, so very little about any of bts' visuals have appeal to me. i do find the contradiction of applying the appeal of radical relatability with the aesthetics of expansive (and expensive) minimalism interesting; it's an extremely fine line that hybe is walking and eventually they are going to tip over, the porcelain mask will not hold forever. maintaining the all ages aesthetic is going to be difficult now that all of them are grown ass men. with other groups of this member age and generation there's very obviously been a shift to a more adult tone, and not necessarily explicitly. got7, mx, nu'est, btob, shinee, 2pm, and groups that have older members like a.c.e and sf9 have all made slow shifts in tone that are undeniably aimed at a maturing audience: they know their core fanbases are aging with them and they (the fans) are not as interested in the 'boy' in boy group. and most of them have telltale visual styles, enough so that i can distinguish a specific group's mv. the last year and change of mx mvs have a very distinctive character; got7 too, since easily as far back as if you do. i can always tell an a.c.e mv by its impeccable fashion and formic styling, and although shinee has always had a more experimental aesthetic edge, their sound and voices are unmistakable.

honestly, i can't predict what bts is going to do in the future, but i personally don't believe they can keep up their clean aesthetic indefinitely without some fallout. part of the fun of following bands is watching them grow musically, and the last couple of years of bts haven't felt like growth. there are fans that have already started realizing it, and there's likely to be more soon.

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the third part is here, which is a short followup about some of bts' industry influence.

#this is long one dear readers #a very long one #strap in #i've sat on this for probably a week now in the hopes my brain can make some interesting connections but honestly?#not a lot about bts is interesting in comparision to the rest of the kpop industry #personally i am of the opinion that lyrics do not matter in idol music and i am not interested in them in the slightest #and bts videos ARE extremely bland visually #unless you like looking at expensive production. whatever floats your boat i guess #they make a lot of sense as an entry kpop group but once you get actually into the industry there is SO much happening #which i talk about in the third part a little bit #this is way too long i am so sorry anon and everyone else who has been asking about this topic #im not entirely sure it's coherent at this point but whatever. its out there now #i wanted this to be under 1k and that emphatically did not happen #it is double that. why am i like this #875 #kpop questions #kpop analysis #group analysis #text #answers

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harry8673-blog · 5 years

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Things We Finish: Winter 2019

Very little tops a perfect night out. Your energy level is inexplicably high even though it's well past your circadian rhythm-dictated bedtime; you've sustained the right level of buzz without passing straight through to 'public intoxication'; the function is chill/bumpin'/air-conditioned [whatever floats your boat]. All in all, you're having a great time.

The one thing that might rank as just a smidge more fun than that ideal night out comes right before the ideal night out: It's the absolutely fabulous, very glamorous, yet strangely relaxing "getting ready" session. Lights dimmed low—except for around your bathroom mirror—and music tuned to these sweet beats. It's all very vibe-y and very cool (as long as you're into 'cool'— please see a meditation on that word right over here). So now that you're in the mood, which products do you pull out? Well, these of course!

Maison Balzac Candle First things first, scent sets the tone. See a candle as your hourglass for getting ready: Light up with enough time to let the whole top liquefy—by the time your burn is even, you'll have had enough time to redo your cat eye at least two or three times. Currently burning at ITG HQ is Maison Balzac's La Rose, acquired immediately after summer's signature La Plage extinguished itself.

Chanel Hydra Beauty Gel Yeux Everyone loves Coco, it seems. French undereye gels are not new and not hard to come by, but these say Chanel all over them so that's chill. Nothing livens up a party like a de-puffed face. Pairs nicely with your very fancy, not chill at all jade roller.

Caudalie Beauty Elixir If undereye gels help you chill at home, this facial spray will help you chill on the go. Buy the travel size to refresh halfway through the night—both with scent and hydration.

Lucas Pawpaw Ointment Skip the lipstick. It's great for a seated dinner with a designated start and end. But that's not what tonight is. No, tonight doesn't have an RSVP. And there might not be mirrors. Or time to touch up. There might be shots, though. So grab a tube of hydrating, glossy balm and call it a night...eventually.

Ellis Faas Concealer Similarly, skip the foundation (unless there's a step-and-repeat). Grab a concealer with good coverage and an attached application device. No time for extra brushes or fingers. Apply directly to the face where you need it.

Tom Ford Shade & Illuminate A two-in-one! And you never thought those could be chic. Yet here we are. Life is funny that way. But really, this is a truly glamorous product if you're going to invest in one thing.

Marc Jacobs Under(cover) Perfecting Coconut Eye Primer The Marc Jacobs Beauty team can make anything cool—including primer, which is an essential product, but not necessarily very cool. Now it is. The nude-ish formula helps bright the lid and hold on to whatever you put on after. Which could be...

Glossier Lidster Glimmer made simple. Swipe on with the doe foot in any one of the easy-going, flattering colors (or mix together! That also works!) and tap until you've got the shape you want. It sets in about 10 seconds and stays put. Partially thanks to the primer. Dance for hours crease-free. If only they made slip dresses with the same properties.

L'Oréal Voluminous Lash Paradise Mascara Mascara does not have to be expensive. In fact, it shouldn't be. L'Oréal's formulas are great across the board and available literally anywhere.

Ricky's NYC Hair Clips A little weird, but it works. These clips are meant to keep hair away from the face and bend-free while you attend to the face. But what if you wore them out and about? That would be kind of groovy, no? Take them for a spin and report back.

Maison Louis Marie Perfume Oil At the very last moment, roll this on (No. 4, bien sûr). The most personal way to wear fragrance isn't sprayed; it's rolled, tapped, dotted. Feels small, but it'll grow throughout the night. You've got plenty of time.

Diptyque candles! Those beautiful French jars of wax that communicate “bougie,” literally and socially. ITG loves ‘em, repurposes ‘em (exhibit A), and can hardly pronounce ‘em, let alone read ‘em. But the French language and unusual typography can only hold back a trio of New Yorkers with questionably fragranced apartments so far. In fact, Emily, Ashley, and Utibe were emboldened, and embarked on a mission: to rank every single Diptyque candle. All 45! A tough job for a group who only knows how to spell “Diptyque” by internally clocking “dip-tee-cue.”

We locked ourselves in the beauty closet for hours to complete this task. There was note-taking. There were metaphors and various analogies. Snacks and mediocre cappuccinos were consumed. In the end it was all worth it. A consensus was reached! And now behold: every Diptyque candle currently on the market, ranked.

44. Ambre: Woody, earthy, flowery, spicy. The opposite of the Coco Chanel maxim; definitely puts an extra thing on before leaving the house.

43. Santal: Surprisingly sweet. Santal 33 has requested a DNA test for authenticity purposes.

42. Chêne: Damp wood. Like walking into a house that’s been uninhabited for months.

41. Coming: Not-so-saccharine bubblegum.

40. Mimosa: A faint whiff of sea salt. Or unscented, depending on your proximity to the flame.

39. Coriander: Not as sexy as cilantro tbh.

38. Aubépine: Powder snow mixed with...earth? Dried flowers? Regardless, Ashley keeps calling this Au Bon Pain.

37. Thé: Smoky citrus. Points for label readability.

36. Noisetier: Mildly spicy nut milk. Yes, yes—oat milk is preferred.

35. Tubérose: Creamy, funky floral. Mocks flowers that are “commercial.”

34. Benjamin: Dark, earthy, and sweet. The Werther’s Original of candles.

33. Menthe Verte: Minty, but not bright. Think about it.

32. Géranium Rose: Ooooh, so that’s what geranium smells like!

31. Roses: Smells like how roses taste. Begging to go in a powder room.

30. Music: Boss baby smell. Famously voiced by local celebrity, Alec Baldwin.

29. Feuille de Lavande: Dryer sheet lavender, but longer-lasting.

28. Violette: Floral, just like the name suggests. Good, but not an instant love, hence the ranking.

27. Jasmin: White floral. Described as voluptuous by Diptyque. Knows how to make an entrance either way you slice it.

26. Verveine: Classy lemon. Communicates the illusion of newly cleaned floors. Nice knowing ya, Swiffer!

25. Opopanax: They say balsamic. We say carbonated soda. Salads must taste like a party in France.

24. Cannelle: Cinnamon. As straightforward as it gets. Tied with Pomander.

24. Pomander: Potpourri. Who potpourri-ed in the bathroom?!?

23. Bois Ciré: Woody. The best part of yoga class: the end when the incense starts burning.

22. Mousses: Moss and wet concrete. You know what they say about mousses in your house. There’s never just one…

21. Foin Coupé: Soapy, with a whiff of grass and earth. Something Donatella Versace would wash her dishes with. Just kidding, Donatella doesn’t do dishes, silly!

20. Maquis: Wood and citrus. This is a pleasing scent, but it blends well into the background. Soundtrack, but make it olfactory related.

19. Patchouli: You’ve got an ad job! A classy patchouli to fragrance your mid-level executive apartment.

18. Muguet: Lily of the valley, which is a poisonous plant. Three points for drama!

17. Oranger: Orange and star anise. For the people who gift oranges in Christmas stockings...

16. Genevrier: Woody juniper. None of us really knows what juniper is though… Fresh laundry meets Vick’s Vapor Rub? Good enough.

15. Vétyver: Cedarwood and slightly floral. Cozy firewood, but not but not burn-your-house-down cozy firewood. 9/10 firefighters approve.

14. Cuir: Fancy leather. Like walking into my Hermès closet! —Lisa Vanderpump, probably

13. Choisya: Ashley says confidently, “This is tuberose.” (We looked it up, it’s orange blossom.)

12. Vanille: Very creamy, a little nutmeg, a little smoke. Unfortunately not fit for human consumption.

11. Babies: “It doesn’t smell like berries, and I deduct points for liars” —Emily “But we love it!” —Everyone else

10. Oyedo: Citrus. Grapefruit meets Mike’s Hard Lemonade. Refreshing!

9. Freesia: “Do I smell freesias? If I see freesias anywhere...” (Name that movie.)

8. Gardénia: Another white floral. Smells like fresh cut stems. Now isn’t that nice?

7. Eucalyptus: You’ll never guess what this one smells like…

6. Cyprès: Warm honey. Smells like how wearing a Rhode Resort dress feels.

5. Myrrhe: Amber resin. Now sing it with me: “I said now myrrhe, it’s cold in here, there must be some amber in the atmosphere.”

4. Oud: Your middle of the road oud. If you like it, you like it, if you don’t you don’t.

3. Figuier: Subtle fig. The scent of 8/10 beauty editors.

2. Tilleul: From the Linden tree, which is native to Tulum or Capri, probably. Oprah’s got this burning in her solarium as we speak.

1. Feu De Bois: The one and only. Burning logs that don’t smell burnt. Warmth in a candle. The inventor of winter. December through February wouldn’t be the same without it.

#Beauty Skincare

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