Paintbrush, PlasGlue and Holy Clippers: Sparse Marns Part 1: The Team

Hey :> :> :>

So this is a BIT out of leftfield(my FAVORITE Kind of field >:> >:>) for this tumblr, but I’ve begun a Mini-Painting-Project and I want to document it OvO

Back in the Grim Darkness of the Far Past I was once an Avid collector and painter of minis for a tabletop wargame known as Epic 40k(also a boat-game called Man’o’War), produced by GamesWorkshop. I don’t say player because it was DAMNDABLY difficult to actl FIND anyone else who collected and played Epic, because it was OBSCURE and HIGHLY UNPOPULAR(My FAVORITE Kinds of both ob-, and popular :>). Mostly I played it alone or with my sibs.

HOWEVER! I had allot of fun constructing and painting the models for it(they were TEENY) and, while Sainted Epic has sadly met it’s Rhana Dandra, GamesWorkshop is, obvsl, still around, I have been Fondly Regarding them from afar ever since, and Recently Become Once More Intrigued By Them For Some Mysterious Reason u_u u_u SO! I am painting some Spess Marins as practice :3 :3 :3

And I WILL be getting to that in future posts BUT, First, I wish to introduce you to My Associates u_u(oh yeah: the background here is just a self-healing cutting mat. They make for a great work-surface and you can get these from any hobbystore, the ones at gameshops are usually tiny, dont bother)

This is my Hobby Knife. There are many like it in the world, but this one is mine. As you can see it’s an Xacto and I got it from a Michael’s. You can get these from any hobby store for a decent price; you dont need to pay the markups you’ll fine on the ones in gameshops. They are, essentially, Scalpels and thus EXCEEDINGLY SHARP which is why you should NEVER EVER EVER EEEEEVER get one anywhere CLOSE to your eyes. Minis are necessarily mini, and some Hobbyists like to get a bit close cuz Vision, but you should NEEEEEEVER do this. Keep it away from your face >:(

However, being an Exceedingly Sharp Knife also makes them Exceedingly Safe Knives, PROVIDED YOU ARE CAUTIOUS AND DULY CAREFUL >:( >:( (I’m SERIOUS!!!). Hobby knives are very responsive, to the work-material and to your movements, and they will communicate to you what is safe if only you will listen through your touch. ATTEND! They are KNIVES, slide and slice don’t try to push it through things; think carving and shaving. Always use the shallowest angle you can. Move it in a single direction, don’t saw and dont scratch. Be gentle with them. Give them your full attention whenever the blade is free. Sometimes, when handling small things, you will drop them and your fumble-instinct will kick in; remember to suppress this when you’re holding a knife. Stay still, put the knife down(preferably cap it too so it wont roll around) and THEN pick up The Thing, and THEN pick back up the knife(and uncap it). I’ve never hurt myself with a hobby knife and if you respect them for what they are, a shard of metal as thin and sharp as a piece of paper and 100xharder, neither will you. I Love Them uwu uwu

This is a tripleset of miniature files from Army Painter. I never used mini Files before this project cuz back when I was but a wee snek GW used different casting methods(we’ll get into this) and everything was snap-fit(obvsl youd glue once you had the pose you liked) so they weren’t really necessary, but after watching some tutorials I figured they are now and, Yeah, sorta. I only used the middle awl-tipped one in this project, which doubles at being good for marking pilot holes. Im not a HUGE fan of them? I feel like they’re a bit coarse for mini-plastic, which is fairly soft, and am considering trying out glass files(one of my sibs builds gundams and suggested this) for the next build I do.

My Hobby Drill, again from Army Painter. In mini-building the primary uses of a drill are 1)clearing obstructed peg-holes, 2)making holes to attach models to bases or painting stands via paperclips, and 3)drilling out barrel holes. In this project I’ll only use it for the third. This one, using the finest bit, worked Fine for that, it’s motion is smooth and easy to control, but I’m a BIT annoyed that only that smallest bit will fit in the darn thing. Now to be fair: this is my first time using a hobby drill and maybe this was user error, but I took the whole dang tip apart trying to get the clamps to widen(it’s fine: they’re built for that and it was easy to put it back together. Easy Maintenance! Another plus) and they never did, and that annoys me >:T Why give me three bits if I can only use one??? GRRRRRR

These are two little plastic cups -one with soapy water, one with clean water- and a paper towel. These will become Important later u_u

Oh Sprues-Clippers, my Beloved! Again these are Army Painter and THIS time they are genuinely Good. Work’s a treat; crisp, smooth action; great control. There’s allot of nuance to using these that you’ll pick up intuitively as you do, but the main thing is to try and cut with the flat side. You’ll understand when you do it cuz your brain will be like ‘Sweet! New Limb :3 :3″

This is Super-, or Plastic-, Glue, again from the Army Painter. It’s Fine, but like most superglue bottles it comes with an applicator tip that was ALREADY cemented shut when I opened it, presumably from bouncing around during shipping. I MUCH prefer superglues with brush-tip-tops rather than applicators. It’s not a big deal though because...

this Ancient Box of toothpicks. Passed down by my mother, and by HER mother before her, these tiny, perfectly weildable tree-shards make Excellent superglue appliers. My tips here: 1)wear a mask, at LEAST an N95 when using super glue, 2)KEEP IT AWAY FROM YOUR FACE!, 3)keep it in a place it wont get knocked over, by you or by wind, or by anything else, 4)don’t use too much and wipe the excess off on the INSIDE of the bottleneck; dont get ANY on the outside or your cap will cement shut when you close it, 5)you cant really FEEL when you’ve lowered it into the glue, so you’ll have to check by eye; this doesn’t mean looking down the bottle, just raise the toothpick out and you’ll see it on the pick. You WILL get superglue on your fingers inevitably(DONT try to avoid this by using gloves they’ll just make you clumsier, and plastic gloves will obvsl get glued to everything by it), It’s Fine, once you reach a good stopping point go rub some olive oil on your fingertips for a few seconds, then was them in warm water with soap for The Full 30 Seconds and the residue ought to come off; if it doesn’t, then bulldoze it off with your thumbnail, pushing out, off of your tips, in a single direction, not scratching. You don’t want superglue in your eyes, or ANY of your membranes, or your Bits(you know the ones), so be careful what you touch while it’s wet on your fingers. Use a paper towel to clean the picks of any excess glue, not microfiber towels or the like they’ll pull the fibers out, and set the pick on the towel when not in use. As its used dry glue will start to build up on the pick and lessen it’s agility; it has served its purpose and can now go to toothpick Valhol(your trashcan), to be replaced by one of its siblings

Tweezers, again from Army Painter. Not a fan; they hold fine but you can’t really put any pressure through them and the main thing you need them for is gluing Tiny Bits to the minis :T There’s a particular type you’ll see most folks making mini videos use but idk what the brand is(mostly cuz I didn’t look :p)

This is two-sided tape. I used it to tape the minis to a piece of cardboard for priming them with spraypaint. I’ll get to that later. And last but not least

This is Mr. Hobby’s Mr. Dissolved Putty and the brush I used to apply it. It’s for filling in any gaps in your minis still visible after you’ve let them dry from being glued together and it’s STUPENDOUS at that, and IT IS HIGHLY TOXIC AND HIGHLY UNSTABLE! If you are going to use this: Store it in a cool dark place it isn’t likely to get knocked over or smashed; keep it out of sunlight; Shake it THOROUGHLY but GENTLY with a FIRM GRIP beforehand(and you’d do well to not let it sit around settling for too long regardless as it deeply desires to solidify; give the bottle a shake ever week or so, at least); Wear latex or nitrile Gloves; Wear Sleeves; Wear Eye protection; Wear a Respirator A REAL-ASS HARDWARE STORE RESPIRATOR WITH THE FILTERS AND EVERYTHING NOT A PAPER MASK; use it ONLY in a well ventilated area(I dont have a vent booth but my set up was: working infront of an open window with an oscillating fan 9ish feet behind me set to max, creating a strong air-current OUT). As above apply it with a brush in thin layers, giving them a few seconds to settle to see if you need to add more, adding more until the gaps stay filled. Let it dry COMPLETELY before you paint which, depending on your weather conditions(the colder and wetter the longer), can take up to a day. With my minis, it dried in a few hours. It would PROBABLY be a good idea to vent the room you use this in for a good hour or so after you do, like: open the windows and set up a fan to blow air out of them, no matter how short your usage of it is. It will keep reacting on the models as it dries, so it will stay in the air for awhile, but once you can no longer smell it you’ll be Fine. Related: it’s probably a good idea to use this in a room you can keep ppl out of after, or outside if you have a good, shaded exterior workspace. After you’ve used it, wash your hands and gargle some water for a few minutes to clear your sinuses(dont swallow the water obvsl! Spit it out). DONT LET THIS STUFF GET INSIDE YOUR BODY!!! Mark the brush you use for this for ONLY This and dont ever put it in your mouth to “sharpen” it(in fact: Stop doing that in general >:( >:( ), and CLEAN IT in a clean water bowl(preferably not plastic or anything you’ll eat out of later) after use, pushing it dry on a paper towel once its clear of the material, then throwing that water OUTSIDE when you’re done applying. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE LID!!! Safety is never a waste of your time.

SO: that’s my team. Tomorrow: ASSEMBLY :> :> :>

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#legworkout #Legday #gvt #germanvolumetraining #10x10 #barbell #backsquat #Rdl #rdls #romaniandeadlift 3 sets of #hacksquats then #tripleset #frontsquat #platerdls #barbellcalfraises 2 days after a blue pallet dropped on my knee and shin at work https://www.instagram.com/p/ByGKLLlDm-N/?igshid=1rg8plxcrp3vc

Y’all thought this shit was a game @awwitskeweezy 👉👉🙌 #viralvideos#darts#bullseye #tripleset #socialmedia#trending#wolphstarr#comedy#networkmarketing https://www.instagram.com/p/B2bFrMKH1gj/?igshid=h3pu4gjpw4a6

📽️:@anyasellers @qdotdavis opening up for @wale last night in his hometown of Birmingham,AL #EPIC Song on video : #GotMyHatasMad (Not what I am performing in video obviously) lol #BIRMINGHAM #ALABAMA #MAGICCITYCLASSIC2017 #HIPHOP #SOUTHEAST #ImOnDatPotion opening for #WALE @wale #MCC17 #tripleset #BlockParty #qdotdavispromo #qdotdavispr #ConnectingArtistLikeWifi #ugottapaymegang #ugottapayme #LOE #coolclub #slumerican @thetripleset #Mcc2k17 #freebandz #freebandzgang #coalitiondjs @coalitiondjsatl @coalitiondjsalabama @djfunkyatl @amyhankspr (at Rogue Tavern)

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Right before opening up for @wale #Wale last night. Had my G's @slice9 x @quandevito on stage with me @illieill had that @future cranked up....the vibe was right! #BIRMINGHAM #ALABAMA #MAGICCITYCLASSIC2017 #HIPHOP #SOUTHEAST #ImOnDatPotion opening for #WALE @wale #MCC17 #tripleset #BlockParty #qdotdavispromo #qdotdavispr #ConnectingArtistLikeWifi #ugottapaymegang #ugottapayme #LOE #coolclub #slumerican @thetripleset #freebandz #freebandzgang #coalitiondjs @coalitiondjsatl @coalitiondjsalabama @djfunkyatl @amyhankspr #Mcc2k17 (at Rogue Tavern)

ปัญหาฝ้าหนา รูขุมขนกว้าง หน้าไม่เรียบเนียน ให้ แนะนำชุดนี้จ้า #TripleSet #ใสเงาเด็ก #750บาท https://www.instagram.com/p/B7ymRrmBaqv/?igshid=1wx6wui79kxmv

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