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autodaemonium · 10 months

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riʌrbɪætuzktaʊæpəlsɛə

Pronounced: riurbiatuzktowapuhlsayuh.

Pantheon of: correctness, logicality, satisfactoriness.

Entities

Kkŋəŋɛzəborærɪrəirwt

Pronounced: kknguhngayzuhborariruhirwt Satisfactoriness: acceptability. Logicality: consistency. Legends: procedure, sexism, variance. Prophecies: imprecation, annoyance, failing, transmission, bid. Relations: səmgsmʌɪsesəɪnɛəezæf (cerussite), ɛəɒɪrldɪdʒilɛɛɛæðɪkɪi (reflexivity), ərɪtfæsvɪvwaʊəðzʒkəɪk (hydrogen iodide), nttrɑtəəəɪvyəɪəʃmeæn (plastic explosive).

Nttrɑtəəəɪvyəɪəʃmeæn

Pronounced: nttrahtuhuhuhivyuhiuhshmean Satisfactoriness: acceptability. Logicality: consistency. Relations: saʊrθærʃaʊŋðtɛntkʃiizs (gamma aminobutyric acid), səmgsmʌɪsesəɪnɛəezæf (marbling), rtrsrɪmmfrətɪhuəinmn (terminable interest).

Rtrsrɪmmfrətɪhuəinmn

Pronounced: rtrsrimmfruhtihuuhinmn Satisfactoriness: acceptability. Logicality: rationality. Legends: round. Prophecies: rationing. Relations: saʊrθærʃaʊŋðtɛntkʃiizs (chloride), səmgsmʌɪsesəɪnɛəezæf (cerium), əɪiɛtfnɪureoiɪnboʃtæ (strawboard), əvʌəwnzaɪdəəɪluwʌɛlɪg (agreement).

Saʊrθærʃaʊŋðtɛntkʃiizs

Pronounced: sowrtharshowngthtayntkshiizs Satisfactoriness: acceptability. Logicality: consistency. Legends: harassment, disinheritance, fossilization. Relations: səmgsmʌɪsesəɪnɛəezæf (zanzibar copal), əvʌəwnzaɪdəəɪluwʌɛlɪg (pearlite).

Səmgsmʌɪsesəɪnɛəezæf

Pronounced: suhmgsmuisesuhinayuhezaf Satisfactoriness: acceptability. Logicality: consistency. Legends: curettage, game, maintenance, request. Prophecies: horse racing, bioremediation, plea. Relations: ərɪtfæsvɪvwaʊəðzʒkəɪk (tulipwood).

Ərɪtfæsvɪvwaʊəðzʒkəɪk

Pronounced: uhritfasvivwowuhthzzkuhik Satisfactoriness: adequacy. Logicality: rationality. Prophecies: associate. Relations: ɛəɒɪrldɪdʒilɛɛɛæðɪkɪi (infusion), ɪgkzdsɪnaɪəməuoðʒyrno (chrome), saʊrθærʃaʊŋðtɛntkʃiizs (bad debt), əvʌəwnzaɪdəəɪluwʌɛlɪg (vinyl polymer).

Əvʌəwnzaɪdəəɪluwʌɛlɪg

Pronounced: uhvuuhwnzaiduhuhiluwuaylig Satisfactoriness: adequacy. Logicality: rationality. Prophecies: displacement, terrain flight, rack, stay, sightseeing.

Əɪiɛtfnɪureoiɪnboʃtæ

Pronounced: uhiiaytfniureoiinboshta Satisfactoriness: acceptability. Logicality: rationality. Legends: two-hitter, performance. Prophecies: perpetration, observed fire, quick march, racquetball. Relations: nttrɑtəəəɪvyəɪəʃmeæn (pilsner), ɛəɒɪrldɪdʒilɛɛɛæðɪkɪi (transcriptase), səmgsmʌɪsesəɪnɛəezæf (straw).

Ɛəɒɪrldɪdʒilɛɛɛæðɪkɪi

Pronounced: ayuhouirldijilayayayathikii Satisfactoriness: acceptability. Logicality: rationality. Legends: mydriasis, tourism, line. Relations: saʊrθærʃaʊŋðtɛntkʃiizs (wax paper), səmgsmʌɪsesəɪnɛəezæf (vellum).

Ɪgkzdsɪnaɪəməuoðʒyrno

Pronounced: igkzdsinaiuhmuhuothzyrno Satisfactoriness: adequacy. Logicality: rationality. Legends: relief, conquest, psa blood test, extension, dressing. Relations: əvʌəwnzaɪdəəɪluwʌɛlɪg (topaz), nttrɑtəəəɪvyəɪəʃmeæn (vanadium), rtrsrɪmmfrətɪhuəinmn (appanage), əɪiɛtfnɪureoiɪnboʃtæ (subordination).

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phantomsofdelight · 11 months

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Ellen Terry ('Choosing')

by George Frederic Watts

oil on strawboard mounted on Gatorfoam, 1864

#george frederic watts #british art #symbolist art #symbolist movement #london #poetry #art #literature #light academia #aesthetic

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villageandcottage · 1 year

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Can You Put a Ceiling in a Thatched Roof?

Thatched roofs look great from the outside of a cottage, but they’re not always the most practical in terms of what you can do in the attic.

As such, it’s fair to ask, can you put a ceiling in a thatched roof? You can definitely put a ceiling in a thatched roof if you plan to block it off to make use of the attic space. There are various factors to consider, though, that might not apply to a normal roof.

In this article, we’ll discuss blocking off a thatched roof in more detail, along with looking at whether you can convert a thatched roof loft.

Can You Put a Ceiling in a Thatched Roof?

Although the general answer to the question of putting a ceiling on a thatched roof is yes, it’s worth digging a bit deeper into what we mean by ceiling. Also, we should think about where you’d actually plan to put it.

So, when we talk about a ceiling in a thatched roof, where do we mean? Generally, we’re referring to putting a ceiling against the actual roof joists, rather than the ceiling of the rooms below the roof (although we’ll discuss that later).

Putting a ceiling on the roof joists can be helpful if you want to turn your attic into storage space, or do it as part of a loft conversion. A thatched roof ceiling can help with:

· Waterproofing

· Insulation

· Painting/decorating

In theory, a thatched roof should be perfectly waterproof on its own, but putting an extra layer under the roof can guarantee that your stored belongings won’t get wet if the roof springs a leak.

Materials Used to Make a Thatched Ceiling

The materials you could use to make a thatched ceiling will depend on the building, whether it’s listed, and the look you’re going for. Generally, your options will be plasterboard, strawboard, or actual plaster.

Plasterboard is probably a material you’re already familiar with. It’s plaster over a gypsum core that forms rigid boards. It’s ideal for internal walls and flattening areas because it’s super convenient to use. Strawboard is very similar to plywood in terms of its construction and appearance.

While these products are the easiest to use, they risk losing some of the charm of your thatched roof. Also, if you plan to add the board between roof joists, you’ll likely be left with a few holes. Old rafters can be very wonky, which is arguably part of their charm.

The solution to this is to put the plasterboard directly on the rafters, but this means covering them completely and losing much of the appeal of a thatched roof. Sure, it’s not easy to work with, but it’s often a shame to completely cover it up.

An alternative is to plaster directly onto the thatch using lime plaster. Lime plaster is a better option than normal plaster because it’ll adhere to the thatch and is more in keeping with traditional building techniques. It’s adhesive enough that it’ll stick and stay there for as long as the thatch exists.

However, lime plaster is far more delicate, meaning it’ll inevitably fall off when your roof is being maintained. You could expect to lose some during the re-ridging process, and you should definitely expect to lose it all when it comes time to replace the roof.

So, putting a ceiling in a thatched roof is perfectly possible, and there are even several options for doing so. However, each comes with potential drawbacks that compromise either the roof’s appearance or its integrity. If you’ve tried doing any work on a listed thatched property, you’ll already know this is how most of the decisions go!

Thatch Ceiling

The other type of thatched ceiling is the room’s ceiling into the loft. Generally, this should exist anyway, but you might want to replace it with something better. A good example is improving insulation in the rooms, which may be compromised due to single-glazed windows and solid brick walls.

There’s not much to say in terms of extra considerations when insulating a room’s ceiling in a thatched property. Aside from grade listing restrictions, you can treat this project the same as in any other home. Thatched roofs are usually quite efficient, but this ultimately depends on whether you’re building a cold roof or a warm roof.

Can You Do a Loft Conversion with a Thatched Roof?

The other thing worth considering is whether you can convert a thatched roof’s loft into another room. This is a common practice for people looking to update and expand their homes, especially in older cottages that might have small and poky rooms.

The short answer is that you can do a loft conversion with a thatched roof. It can be a great way to add another bedroom or office to your home, as lofts are often unused spaces. This is even more true in a thatched cottage, as the loft space is far more “open” than that under a tiled roof.

However, there are some important considerations if this is something you’re planning to do. These include:

Grade Listing Restrictions

The vast majority of thatched cottages in the UK are Grade listed buildings. A building’s listing has a massive impact on what you can do in terms of upgrades, and even decorating. It should therefore come as no surprise that a loft conversion would be of great interest to Historic England, and your local council.

While this doesn’t mean you’ll be completely banned from converting a loft, you could be very limited in terms of how you do it.

For example, a loft conversion requires a way up, and this could be a major sticking point in your planning permission. You might find that you can’t add new stairs, meaning you might have to consider a ladder instead.

If your thatched property isn’t listed – for example, it’s a new build or a building conversion – you should be fine to act under Permitted Development rules. In short, permitted development means you don’t need planning permission to make changes to your home.

Whether this is the case ultimately depends on the scope of your project and your local council rules. As such, it’ll be worth visiting the link above and speaking to your local council’s planning office. It’s better for them to tell you that you don’t need permission, after all.

Ventilation and Insulation

Part of the reason why thatched roofs work so well is that they’re water-resistant and well ventilated. If the rooms below your roof have their own ceilings and there’s nothing in your loft, this is known as a cold roof.

In short, this means the roof isn’t heated but is structurally separated from the rooms below. This allows for appropriate airflow to prevent damp and mould in the loft space. The thickness of a thatched roof helps with this, and with insulation.

However, adding a ceiling to your thatched roof (which would be required for a loft conversion) may compromise your roof’s ventilation. You’ll need to maintain a minimum gap between the roof and the ceiling, but the level of ventilation will still be far lower.

Also, opening the loft space to the rest of the house will simply mean the air is warmer (as it’s no longer a cold roof). Warm air holds more moisture than cold air, so there’s a bigger risk of damp in the loft conversion. While this might not be a massive problem for the plaster and plasterboard, it could be for the roof beams.

Wood is a relatively good insulator, but it’ll be a weak point in terms of overall insulation when compared to the other materials used. Cold air is more likely to pass through the beams, which brings another risk of damp. The last thing you want is a rotting roof beam, and there’s every chance this could happen in an improperly designed loft conversion.

Weight Limit

Finally, you’ll have to think about the weight limit of the current ceiling joists in your loft. The beams that hold the ceiling of the below rooms may not be weighted for the kinds of things you’d want in a bedroom.

As such, you might need to replace or reinforce them, typically with steel girders. It’s not a massive issue in terms of appearance, as they’ll be covered. However, it could be an issue in terms of cost and planning permission.

There’s no way to know whether this’ll be a problem in your loft without consulting a structural engineer. Considering you’ll likely need to get plenty of authorities involved to convert a loft in a listed building, it’s something that’ll come up during the planning stage.

Final Thoughts

As you can see, there’s quite a lot to think about if you plan to put a ceiling in a thatched roof, and even more if you want to convert the loft. Thatched roofs are great, but they require far more work than a tiled roof. So whatever you plan to do, make sure you speak to a professional before jumping into the project.

source https://villageandcottage.com/thatched-roofs/can-you-put-a-ceiling-in-a-thatched-roof/

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omociano · 2 years

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#imperfectme have been working on this piece of mine over a while now title IYALA AGBO(herbal medicine). Trying to pinch the attention of the FGN to see how to organise and package this herbal medicine to the world because Ghana seem to have 50 plus herbal hospital according to research. Will talk more on this when the painting comes to an end. 10 days on this with nothing less than 6 to 7 hours daily. Acrylic on strawboard. You just can't take away realism from art. #ALLTOGOD https://www.instagram.com/p/Ch9yq5oN1Wa/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

#imperfectme #alltogod

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jadonulrich · 3 years

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Boniface Maina Luggage I, 2018 Acrylic on Strawboard 25 1/10 × 34 2/5 in

#Boniface Maina #acrylic #strawboard #painting #art

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mysteriousartcentury · 5 years

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1. George Frederic Watts (1817-1904), Ellen Terry (‘Choosing’), 1864, oil on strawboard mounted on Gatorfoam, 47.2 x 35.2 cm.

2. Julia Margaret Cameron (1815-1879), Ellen Terry at Age Sixteen, 1864.

#old photography #julia margaret cameron #george frederic watts #pre raphaelite #ellen terry #oil painting #artists on tumblr #british art #19th century art #1800s

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mostlysignssomeportents · 4 years

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#15yrsago Transmaterial catalog: Biosteel, pervious concrete, Superblack, corrugated glass, rubber pavements/sidewalks, strawboard, conductive plastic, plasphalt, light-emitting glass, regenerative plastic...

Phil sez, "Further to your 'Next-generation concrete' post, you might like this site... which includes an 11MB 187-page PDF of a brochure *packed* full of materials as just as intriguing: Biosteel, pervious concrete, Superblack, corrugated glass, rubber pavements/sidewalks, strawboard, conductive plastic, plasphalt, light-emitting glass, regenerative plastic..." 11MB PDF Link (Thanks, Phil!)

https://boingboing.net/2005/01/07/transmaterial-catalo.html

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chigozie-obi · 4 years

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'Ọtú anyị dị (The way we are)' Oil & strawboard on canvas 42 x 54 inches 2020. ••• . Society has often told women to disassociate themselves from certain things which have been deemed "masculine". Women are cajoled and often times forced into being more 'feminine'. We are bullied in an attempt to make our dressing, behavior and sexuality fit into the predefined framework of femininity. 'Ọtú anyị dị (The way we are)' pays tribute to women who are self-assured with regards to their appearances and behaviour. Women who embrace their true selves and do not conform to societal pressure. "Coming up for air" presents women in opposition to what they've been frequently told to change about themselves. This body of work focuses on illustrating women as confident, content and comfortable in contrast to what they have been told to be. This project empathizes that there is no one look or behaviour that defines womanhood. Women are beings of different thoughts, personalities and styles and should not always need to conform to be accepted. A woman should not be compelled to feel guilt or be judged for expressing her true self. . ••• . #art #artist #oilpaint #oilpainting #oiloncanvas #artoftheday #africanartist #modernart #contemporaryart #contemporaryafricanart #painting #oiloncanvas #women #beauty #sad #canvas #photoshoot #bet #betair #comingupforair #otuanyidi #chigozieobi https://www.instagram.com/p/B_4y8omgT0C/?igshid=1e24hai88rhxo

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plasticmagx · 7 years

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(.50X.38M) Acrylic on Canvas . . #BeverlyHillsArtShow #Thursday #BikoHaffar #BIKO #westafrica #WestAfricanArt #westafricanartist #CaliforniaArtist #afrofuturism #afrofuturist #backtoafrica #Ghanaian #abstractart #blackart #blackartworld #artworldwide #abstractpainting #contemporaryart #contemporarypainting #modernart #biko #acrylic #strawboard #lines #drawing #color

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inar1008-visualdiary-mot-blog · 7 years

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Abstraction through modelling

Materials: 1mm thick Strawboard

Reflection: With this model, I decided to challenge myself by trying to piece together random pieces of strawboard. This helped me understand that I have to start thinking outside the box of simplicity.

#weeks 4 #abstraction #abstraction through modelling #strawboard #modelling

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autodaemonium · 2 years

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θəɒrðmnvəədmɪðuzbŋdə

Pronounced: thuhourthmnvuhuhdmithuzbngduh.

Pantheon of: damnation, obliqueness, self-discipline, dullness, lure.

Entities

Bŋləəɪruribokəɪdnryn

Pronounced: bngluhuhiruribokuhidnryn Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: flatness. Self-Discipline: abstinence. Legends: divulgence, air cover. Prophecies: squish, combined operation, noblesse oblige, scuff, marketing. Relations: ʌkfəəɪrkmmufɪelaɪtsrh (cellulose triacetate).

Mətsltəsətʃssəɛmtiədŋ

Pronounced: muhtsltuhsuhtshssuhaymtiuhdng Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: flatness. Self-Discipline: continence. Prophecies: pileup, step. Relations: ɪnzdrdumdvɛəɪsvbnsrr (gin and it), shfrmŋŋvzezɪtrənrɪən (vermouth), ɪktŋnnəɛhɪtdʒrtigtyeɪ (suit), bŋləəɪruribokəɪdnryn (red cedar).

Shfrmŋŋvzezɪtrənrɪən

Pronounced: shfrmngngvzezitruhnriuhn Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: dimness. Self-Discipline: abstinence. Legends: allocution, roll. Prophecies: xeroradiography, grazing fire. Relations: ʌkfəəɪrkmmufɪelaɪtsrh (methyl salicylate), ɪɛkðlroŋwləʃtvsæʌəgæ (coagulase), zuəntʃsdtefimmsθiəlrs (rocket fuel), æænɪihɪʒɪplɪrpswəksʌ (strawboard).

Swbdʃɪuɒɪɛsəuhɪnhaʊəə

Pronounced: swbdshiuouiaysuhuhinhowuhuh Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: dimness. Self-Discipline: abstinence. Legends: confectionery, ruin, skiing. Prophecies: pitch.

Təəɛnstəlŋmnruhməædn

Pronounced: tuhuhaynstuhlngmnruhmuhadn Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: flatness. Self-Discipline: continence. Legends: trip, formality, mission, morale building, north american free trade agreement. Prophecies: aerobics, intersection, shape-up, rising trot, write-off. Relations: bŋləəɪruribokəɪdnryn (enamine).

Zuəntʃsdtefimmsθiəlrs

Pronounced: zuuhntshsdtefimmsthiuhlrs Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: dimness. Self-Discipline: abstinence. Legends: summary judgment, zoolatry, post-rotational nystagmus, capital offense. Prophecies: second, hamming, seclusion, service, celebration. Relations: swbdʃɪuɒɪɛsəuhɪnhaʊəə (cantala), ɪktŋnnəɛhɪtdʒrtigtyeɪ (mean distance).

Æænɪihɪʒɪplɪrpswəksʌ

Pronounced: aaniihiziplirpswuhksu Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: flatness. Self-Discipline: continence. Legends: heads-up. Relations: təəɛnstəlŋmnruhməædn (jacket), shfrmŋŋvzezɪtrənrɪən (chloroform), əðeɪrəzdɪosaɪəɛəɪæuəv (dividend), swbdʃɪuɒɪɛsəuhɪnhaʊəə (generic noun).

Əðeɪrəzdɪosaɪəɛəɪæuəv

Pronounced: uhtheiruhzdiosaiuhayuhiauuhv Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: dimness. Self-Discipline: continence. Prophecies: obtainment, petit larceny, ring, nonresistance, annulment. Relations: təəɛnstəlŋmnruhməædn (discount rate), ɪnzdrdumdvɛəɪsvbnsrr (hooch).

Ɪktŋnnəɛhɪtdʒrtigtyeɪ

Pronounced: iktngnnuhayhitjrtigtyei Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: dimness. Self-Discipline: abstinence. Legends: echo, dripping, civil contempt, self-aggrandizement. Prophecies: racing, straddle, salutatory address, foliation, flamenco. Relations: təəɛnstəlŋmnruhməædn (anabolic steroid), əðeɪrəzdɪosaɪəɛəɪæuəv (annuity in advance).

Ɪnzdrdumdvɛəɪsvbnsrr

Pronounced: inzdrdumdvayuhisvbnsrr Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: dimness. Self-Discipline: abstinence. Legends: allocation, premiership. Prophecies: restraint, antitrust case, aliyah.

Ɪɛkðlroŋwləʃtvsæʌəgæ

Pronounced: iaykthlrongwluhshtvsauuhga Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: dimness. Self-Discipline: austerity. Legends: buying, ophthalmectomy. Prophecies: situation comedy, relaxation, pedicure, vanishing. Relations: shfrmŋŋvzezɪtrənrɪən (alimony).

Ʌkfəəɪrkmmufɪelaɪtsrh

Pronounced: ukfuhuhirkmmufielaitsrh Damnation: fire and brimstone. Dullness: dimness. Self-Discipline: austerity. Legends: copout. Prophecies: double dutch.

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emiratesfire · 3 years

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10 Fire-Resistant Building Materials

These days there is a quickly developing mindfulness among the draftsmen and architects to plan, plan and develop the structures, keeping the wellbeing of the tenants as the concentration in case of an episode of fire.

When the fire begins, it tends to light every one of the burnable materials of the encompassing region and if not checked on schedule, it might spread to different pieces of the structures and at last lead to the breakdown of the structure. The majority of the nations have portrayed fire obstruction as far as the term of protection from fire for example 60 minutes, 2 hours of fire obstruction and so on There are additionally standards and guidelines that ought to be remembered by draftsmen and specialists to plan structures.

Non-Ignitable Materials

These materials don't add to the development of fire however may get harmed when the temperature is reached to an exceptionally undeniable level where deterioration of combination happens, bringing about the deficiency of solidarity of the structure. On the off chance that such materials are utilized in the design, it might keep up with the honesty of construction for a longer length however may ultimately implode. Instances of such materials are metal, stone, glass, concrete, earth items, gypsum items, and asbestos items.

Flammable Materials

Burnable materials will join exothermically with oxygen, bring about fire, and spread the fire. Such materials whether structure part of the construction or substance of the structure, consume themselves and increment the force and development of fire for example it goes about as a fuel for the fire. Instances of such materials are wood and all wooden items, fabricated items, for example, fiberboard, strawboard, and so on

One might say that non-flammable materials are protected up to a certain level to use in building/house for the straightforward realities it can't turn into the fuel for the fire. As per 'U. S. Division OF Trade' all underlying individuals are needed to be of non-burnable materials independent of the level of fire obstruction. In this way, here we have talked about hardly any fire-safe structure materials that can be utilized in development to limit fire-related harms.

Fire-Safe Materials

01. Stones

Stones are utilized in an uneven region where stones are accessible without any problem. Contingent on their attributes, various kinds of stones is utilized at better places. Cleaned stones are utilized as tabletops, cladding for dividers and segments. Stones are likewise utilized in patio garden for the grower, in entrance passage in home and to construct compound divider. Stone, sandstone, and limestone are utilized to assemble dividers. Record stones are utilized in roofs and floors.

Stone has a higher ability to withstand fire up to 13000C – 15000C, past which it begins liquefying/breaking. The utilization of stone in a fire-opposing development ought to be limited to a base as this fire-safe material can't avoid unexpected cooling and breaks into pieces.

02. Blocks

Blocks are the most well-known and supported development material all through the world. Blocks are utilized for the development of divider, lintel, and curve, holding divider, depression divider, and soggy roof courses, and so forth Blocks are likewise used to give a stylish appearance to the construction.

Top-notch blocks are essentially fireproof as they can withstand the openness of fire for a significant period. Being helpless conductors of warmth, the blocks can withstand high temperatures up to 13000C without causing genuine impacts. Fire blocks are best for use in fire-opposing development.

03. Steel

Steel is utilized to assemble tall structures, private structures. Steel is utilized in a shaft, segment, lintel purlin, roof, roof, dividers and so on It is likewise utilized in working as warming and cooling hardware and inside ducting. Steel is additionally utilized in Inward apparatuses and fittings like rails, steps, and racking

04. Created Iron and Cast-Iron

Created iron is utilized as an improving reason in open-air steps, railing, entryways, and walls. Cast-Iron is utilized for making clean fittings for example sewer vents, water lines, and sewer pipes. It is likewise used to make metal sections and segment bases.

05. Aluminum

Aluminum is utilized for window outlines, roofing, and drape walling, just as for cast entryway handles, gets for windows and flights of stairs. In some high-level nations, aluminum is being utilized for reinforcement purposes in multi-celebrated designs due to its lightweight and against erosion properties. The dissolving point of aluminum is about 6600C.

06. Concrete

As a rule, it is a terrible conductor of warmth and is a decent fire-safe material. Concrete doesn't have a dissolving point yet there is a loss of solidarity after a specific level of temperature. There is no deficiency of solidarity in concrete up to 2500C. The real level of fire-opposition of concrete relies on the idea of totals utilized and their thickness. In the event of RCC and pre-focused on development, it relies on the situation of steel in concrete. RCC construction can oppose fire up to 10000C for 60 minutes.

07. Glass

As a result of its low warm conductivity, glass is an awesome fire-safe material. It goes through an immaterial change in volume during development or withdrawal and henceforth is viewed as a decent fire-safe material Glass liquefies at roughly around 14000C to 16000C. Abrupt and outrageous changes in temperature, notwithstanding, bring about breaks or breaks. Yet, when glass is built up with steel wire netting, e.g., in wired glass, its fire obstruction is extensively expanded, and its inclination to crack with unexpected temperature changes gets limited.

08. Asbestos Cement

This fire-safe material, which is shaped by joining sinewy mineral with Portland cement, has an extraordinary fire-resistive worth. Its dissolving point is about 8710C. Asbestos cement items are broadly utilized for the development of fire-resistive parcels and roofs among others. Being the helpless conductors of warmth and incombustible material, the underlying individuals mixed with asbestos cement offer incredible protection from breaking, enlarging, or deterioration when exposed to fire.

09. Plaster or Mortar

It is an incombustible fire-safe material and thus utilized for securing the dividers and roofs of working from fire chances. Cement plaster is superior to lime plaster as the last is probably going to be calcined. The fire obstruction of the plaster to fire dangers can be expanded by utilizing it in a thicker layer or building up the plaster with metal machines. Gypsum plaster is additionally applied on steel sections and other steel individuals to expand their fire-resistive characteristics.

10. Gypsum

Gypsum is one more normally utilized fire-safe material utilized in the development world. Gypsum has a softening point of about 1000C – 1500C. Numerous primary materials are connected with gypsum sheeting to forestall any fire risks and to accomplish great fire-safe appraisals.

After talking about all the above building materials, one might say that the legitimate choice of the fire-safe material and the strategy for development assumes a vital part in limiting the peril of fire. In a fire-safe development, the most extreme utilization of non-flammable materials ought to be energized. Contingent on the accessibility of fire-safe material and the spending plan you can pick fitting materials for your home development. Be that as it may, you need to pick the material prudently contrasting its conduct and different burdens like tremor, typhoon, downpour, wind, etc.

For more: Drawings approvals, Safety consultants in Dubai, Fire Safety Training Abu Dhabi, Fire Safety training courses, Fire and Safety Companies in Abu dhabi.

#Drawings approvals #Fire Safety training courses #Safety consultants in Dubai #Fire Safety Training Abu Dhabi #Fire and Safety Companies in Abu dhabi

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xconceptz · 3 years

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Title:Subtle....Medium:charcoal on strawboard #wearenigeriancreatives https://www.instagram.com/p/CN9-IeRnxKQ/?igshid=1dzod9sj5fbex

#wearenigeriancreatives

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rachelpimm · 5 years

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WHEAT STRAWBOARD

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guildofbookworkers-blog · 7 years

Text

Adjusting the Jacques Board Shear

by Bill Minter

Over the years, I have had an opportunity to test the cutting action of many board shears. While some are OK, others have a major problem. Not only are they difficult to use, they could be causing serious damage to the components. And in some cases, there is a possible danger to the user. In 2000, the Guild of Book Workers produced a video on maintaining the Jacques Board Shear. That video is still available through the Guild Library. (Note: Be sure to look under the year 2000 – Salt Lake City, Utah for the “Examination of the Jacques Board Shear”.) The following information will supplement that video.

As stated in the video, an immediate safety concern is a pin or bolt to prevent the counter-weight from dropping off. While the weight is known to have dropped a few times, fortunately, there have been no serious injuries. To prevent the weight from dropping, there should be the hole at the end of the counter-balance bar with a pin or bolt as a safety; if not, one should be added immediately. Another recent safety concern is the clearance under the clamp bar. This topic will be covered in a future article.

BACKGROUND

The Jacques Board Shear is available in two models: My preference is the “Iron-Top” that is described by Jacques as a “Bookbinders’ Shear.” Note that the cutting blade support of the Bookbinders’ Shear is a heavy, angular casting that is less prone to flexing during a cut. The second and very common model is the “Fine Paper Box Makers’ Shear” or the “Strawboard Shear” with a wooden top. In this model the upper blade is supported by a flat, rectangular casting that may flex during a cut.

In either model, the cutting blade should ideally move freely along the bed blade without pinching or binding. In fact the blade should ‘sing’ sweetly, smoothly and uniformly during the movement when not cutting any material. If everything is adjusted properly, a sheet of tissue paper or thin Japanese paper should cut cleanly. Occasionally, people may think that the blades need to be sharpened, but the upper blade may simply need an adjustment. Furthermore, one blade sharpening company has even suggested that the blades on our shears should only need to be sharpened every twenty years — see more information about sharpening at the end of this article.

Following is a diagram of the components for adjusting a Jacques Board Shear. Note that the cutting blade is supported on a Hub that pivots between the two Axle Bolts. These Axle Bolts push against one-another thus supporting the Hub. These bolts are adjusted to provide the proper clearance between the cutting blade and the fixed bed blade. Also note that these two axle bolts must be locked or secured by the adjacent Jam Nut, otherwise these bolts will loosen when the shear is used. Another nice feature in the Jacques design is the yoke that can be rotated or pivoted by two adjusting bolts, after loosening two other bolts. By adjusting these bolts, the cutting blade is made perfectly parallel to the fixed bed blade, even after decades of use.

Additional Notes before making any adjustments:

Note that the thickness of some blades may have been overly ground and that the blades may not be flat. In other words, the blades could be warped. Since the blades will never lay flat, this may create a problem with the adjustments. See the additional notes at the end of this article about sharpening.

Both the bed blade and the cutting blade should have been attached to a clean and uniform surface. All old shims should have been removed and the mounting surfaces should be clean of anything that could interfere with a uniform surface.

The pivot points of the Axle Bolts and the Hub should be cleaned and lubricated with heavy-duty grease, such as automotive wheel bearing grease.

Special tools are needed: Two large adjustable wrenches are needed for the Axle Bolt and Jam Nut, one of which must be capable of fitting the large jam nut that is 1-7/16″; other smaller wrenches will also be needed.

Adjustment of the Cutting Blade — Patience is required:

1) Before making any adjustments, lower the cutting blade SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY and observe the contact point of the two blades. Ideally, the cutting blade should lightly contact the bed blade during the entire cutting motion — there should be no need to pull on the cutting blade handle. Note that the bed blade has a slight inward grind, thus there will be clearance between the blades after the upper cutting blade has passed the cutting point. If the cutting blade pinches at any point, or if there is excessive clearance in an area, an adjustment should be made.

A.1) Blades pinching in one area: If the upper blade is pinching, then the axle bolts need to be adjusted. First loosen the jam nut for bolt A and then loosen A a small amount, perhaps about 15 degrees (less than 1/16th of a full rotation) —note: a tiny adjustment may have a huge affect on the alignment of the blade, so one must be very patient. After adjusting, re-secure the jam nut. Then loosen jam nut B, and adjust bolt B, though not too tight. While holding B in place, re-secure the jam nut. Slowly lower the cutting blade for a test. Adjust more as needed.

A.2) Excessive clearance all-along: If there is excessive clearance or if the blade is not making contact, then the axle bolts may need to be adjusted. First loosen the jam nut for bolt B and then loosen B a small amount, perhaps about 15 degrees (less than 1/16th of a full rotation). —note: a tiny adjustment may have a huge affect on the alignment of the blade, so one must be patient. After adjusting, re-secure the jam nut. Then loosen jam nut A, and adjust bolt A, though not too tight. While holding A in place, re-secure the jam nut. Slowly lower the cutting blade for a test. Adjust as needed.

A.3) Other: If the blade is making light contact in the middle of the length of the blade, but not at the ends, the upper blade is probably already parallel to the bed blade. In this case, the blade may need to be shimmed at the ends — see # 3 below.

B) Cutting at one end: If the upper blade is contacting the bed blade at only one end, it may be necessary to adjust the yoke — see step 2. The upper blade must first be parallel to the bed blade before making the final adjustments.

2) Adjusting the Yoke: Note that the Yoke is secured by two bolts (2b) under the Hub. If you need to adjust the yoke, loosen these bolts slightly. Then loosen one of the bolts at 2c and then tighten the other (both bolts should be snug afterwards) — this will rotate the yoke. Note that small adjustments can make a huge change, so be patient. After adjusting, re-tighten the bolts 2b. Lower the blade slowly and carefully to test the cutting. Readjust as needed until the upper blade is perfectly parallel to the bed blade. Then adjust the clearance following section A.2.

3) Shimming the Cutting Blade: Thin sheets of Mylar (polyester film), such as 2, 3 or 4-mil, seem to be the best material for shimming. The pieces of film should be cut to fit between the bolts that secure the cutting blade to the support handle; the pieces should also be long enough to reach the top of the blade and also extend beyond the bottom. The pieces of film can be folded/creased so that they will stay in place when the bolts are loose. With the shims long enough during the adjusting process, a record can be made of what has been inserted and where; these extensions will be trimmed off when the adjustments are complete. Add shims as needed and tighten the bolts securely before each test. Add (or remove) shims as needed for a perfect cut, and then trim off the excess shims.

Continue adjusting until the cutting blade sings and will cut a thin piece of paper easily. Be patient, as it will take time for a proper adjustment.

* Sharpening the Blades — The blades should be ground to the same angle as the original. In some cases, the grinder may want to remove stock from both the height and the width (thickness) of the blade. If the blades are in good condition, there should be little or no stock removal from the width/thickness of the blade to insure a solid, stable blade. Excessive grinding of the thickness will make the blade too thin and then difficult to adjust. Therefore, most sharpening should be done by only removing metal, for example from the top, from the height of the blade. In other words, for the bed blade, the sharpening would be to take a little off the top. If the blades are too thin from over-grinding, they will not lay flat and could pose a problem.

— Note that both blades are composed of two different hardnesses of metal: The main portion of the blade is a standard steel, but the actual cutting edges are a much harder metal that has been inlaid. Scratching the side and the top of the blade with a needle can show this hardness.

— Also note that most upper cutting blades are flat and wider along the bottom edge, thus providing extra strength for cutting binder board. Some other shear blades may have been sharpened like a guillotine blade with a point. Since the angle is acute, this style of blade is better suited for cutting only paper.

One final note: It would be a good idea to schedule an annual test of all bolts to be sure they are snug and tight. This is especially true for the foot-treadle bolts, as they seem to loosen first. ALSO, be sure that the bolts for the counter-weight are still tight.

The board shear is an important and essential tool in our bindery. It is the focal-point. It should always be in good condition for safe operation. Good Luck.

If there is a need for any further clarification, please let us know.

Sincere Thanks to Richard Baker for his assistance.

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