Samurai's ranks and dress code in Late Edo period
AMAZING reference chart put together by Nadeshico Rin, showing the different attires worn by the men of the buke class in and about Edo Castle. OP stresses the chart is by no means exhaustive - but it helps picturing things SO MUCH!
For easier reading, I have adapted the chart with english translation. Rin has also created illustrations detailing each attire, I'll translate those in coming days under the tag "samurai kimono".
You'll find the transliteration below cut:
The court ranks - Mibun 身分 or Ikai (位階)
Find more about the exact titles here.
一位 Ichii (First court rank)
三位 Sanmi (Third court rank) and 四位 Shii (Fourth court rank)
Goi 五位 (Fifth court rank)
Omemie ijô 御目見 以上, the "upper" vassals allowed to request audience with the shogun
Omemie ika 御目見 以下, the "lesser" vassals (not allowed to request audience with the shogun)
Rin does not mention the second court rank (二位 Nii) so I am not sure where this one is supposed to go ^^;
The clan/families - Kamei 家名
徳川将軍家 Tokugawa shôgunke (Tokugawa Shogun clan)
尾張徳川家 Owari Tokugawake (Owari Tokugawa clan), 紀伊徳川家 Kii Tokugawake (Kii Tokugawa clan), 水戸徳川家 Mito Tokugawake (Mito Tokugawa clan), 徳川御三卿 Tokugawa gosankyo (Secondary Tokugawa branch clans: Tayasu, Shimizu, and Hitotsubashi)
三奉行 Sanbugyô, & 下三奉行 Shimosan bugyô (magistrates, governors)
旗本 Hatamoto (general term for upper-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)
御家人 Gokenin (general term for lower-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)
Outfits TPO (Time, Place, Occasion)
第一礼服 (大礼 など) Daiichi raifuku (tairei nado) - Most formal outfit worn during State/important ceremonies, etc.
礼服 (正月など) Raifuku (Shogatsu nado) - Formal outfit, worn for events like New Year, etc.
通常礼服 (節句など) Tsûjô raifuku (sekku nado) - Regular
formal outfit, worn during seasonal festivals, etc.
平服 Heifuku - Everyday outfit
Type of outfits
Rin has released separated charts detailing the different costumes. You'll find them translated here in coming days.
束帯 Sokutai - old ceremonial court dress, first worn by Heian nobility. Attire includes the 笏 shaku (flat ritual sceptre), and 冠 kanmuri hat.
衣冠 Ikan - old ceremonial court dress, much more simpler than sokutai
布衣 Hoi - "plain" 狩衣 kariginu (which were informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)
素襖 Suô - ceremonial dress of the lower-ranked samurai
直垂 Hitatare - ceremonial court robe
狩衣 Kariginu - patterned kariginu (informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)
大紋 Daimon - 直垂 hitatare with large family crests
直衣 Nôshi - everyday robes which were first worn by males of the imperial family during Heian era, and then spread among nobility, etc.
長上下 Naga Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with trailing pants called 長袴 nagabakama
半上下 Han Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with ankle lenght pants called 半袴 hanbakama
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My stupid fan brain is doing stupid stuff again. The two shows are not connected in anyway shape or form but I can’t help but think about this:
Man shipwrecked in Japan and doomed to stay there for the rest of his days as a figure (pawn) in his lords court. Learning to live and respect the ways of the land that he now calls home:
His granddaughter born believing that her bloodline came to her homeland to ravage and disrespect it. Swearing vengeance not simply on that but on that she was born by his blood:
Oh Jesus Christ I think they both have blue eyes too
(There is a small theory going around that Mizu is likely the descendent of William Adams. The Englishman who Blackthorn is based off of so yeah. One thing led to another and I came up with this)
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