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#sateen shirt
4nuttyaddict · 7 months
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Modification d'une chemise longue.
Lien facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4-nutty-addict-850962241666113
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temmiemonomae · 1 year
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AAAAAA i went to the Cupcakke concert and it was so fucking good!! I even made an outfit for it
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peterfieldsberlin · 7 months
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Bring some color into the upcoming season, today with...
-Saddle Shoulder Sweater in Charcoal by @fishermanoutofireland
-Lambswool Scarf 1972 by @johnhanly1893
-Le Grand Bonnet Beanie - orange peel by @lebonnetamsterdam
-Chup Socks Wool Bungalow - beige by @chupsocks
-Fatigue Shirt in Military Herringbone Twill and Fatigue Pant Straight in Olive Sateen by @tellason
-Éclair M Postman Bag in camel by @bleudechauffe @bleudechauffe.women
-Brass Pencase and Brass Pencil by @travelers_company
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20dollarlolita · 6 months
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Hey! I’m hoping you might have a suggestion for fabrics; I’m looking for a thick cotton to make a petticoat style skirt (like those oldschool ones made of cotton with pintucks and insertion lace). I want it thick enough that the white skirt isn’t see through and it stays stiff enough to provide volume if I use it as an underskirt, but not so thick/rough it’s uncomfortable or that I can’t gather it to be frilly. There’s so many words out there- duck? Broadcloth? Canvas? Twill? I’m not sure how to describe what I’m looking for in a Google search. All I know is I definitely don’t want quilting cotton. ‘Burberry’ (which I see a lot of brands use) just turns up plaids a la the high fashion brand. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you so much!
Anyone who is interested in burbery in the lolita context should talk to @babelglyph aka burberryglyph. The short version is that burbery is a lightweight cotton twill used in a lot of old school pieces, and B.Glyph knows where to get it, as well as can provide info about why they know that the fabric they recommend is true burbery twill, as well as why it's called burbery. I remember that they know all of this but can't remember the actual answer to any of it.
As for other fabrics you mentioned: All duck is canvas but not all canvas is duck. Duck is a plain weave and other canvasses can be a twill weave of some kind. Either way, the heavier yarn and overall thick construction is what makes canvas canvas. Fun fact, "duck tape" predated the term "duct tape" and referred to tape made of duck canvas. Broadcloth is usually interchangeably with quilt cotton, though "quilt cotton" is generally a more specific term. Broadcloth can be pretty much any fiber but quilt cotton is expected to be cotton. Some people think that broadcloth has to be a single color. Twill is a weave structure, so the words that predate it are important. "stretch twill" is going to be different from "suiting twill" or "heavyweight wool twill." If you want to see a twill weave structure, generally the most accessible example of a twill structure is denim. Look at some blue jeans and you can see how there's that slanting pattern caused by the blue threads passing over 2-3 white threads before going under a white thread? That's a twill weave structure. (You then have to have it be cotton and have the two color setup to be proper denim. Technically black jeans aren't denim, they're just twill, but no one wants to get into that fight with me.)
If you're looking for cotton fabrics that aren't quilt cotton, but tend to be in that sort of lighter weight area, I'd look for:
Cotton sateen: This is cotton fibers woven in a satin weave. This has a really subtle luster and will drape better than quilt cotton,
or
Cotton poplin: poplin has what's called an unbalanced plain weave, so the threads are woven in the same pattern as quilting cotton, but where in quilting cotton they are the same thickness vertically and horizontally, they're different thicknesses vertical vs horizontal in poplin. This means that it hangs better, and also that it has a different drape depending on if you're using lengthwise grain or crosswise grain. Poplin is used for shirting a lot.
If you need to get thicker, you will probably want to look for lightweight twill. I'm trying to not get too into textile science, which is hard because i LOVE textile science. So stick with me for a second:
The "higher quality" a fabric generally feels, in quotes there because quality is subjective, but through history we have associated finely spun yarns with a higher quality. Thinner yarns are harder to make, and you need to use more of them to make the same size fabric as you'd make with thicker yarn. Thinner yarn has to be structurally better constructed to take the force of being woven into fabric, versus a thicker yarn. So, when we want something that feels like quality, we look for fabrics spun with a thinner yarn. This is why expensive sheets are measured in thread count: more threads per inch is a better quality sheet.
However, the problem comes when you want a thicker fabric made of thinner yarns. If you've ever had a potholder loom, you understand a plain weave: a yarn goes over one yarn, under the next, over the next, and so on. Thinner threads in a plain weave will make a thinner fabric.
However, if you start using other weave patterns, you start changing fabric properties. In a twill weave, a thread will go over two or more other threads before going under another thread. One of the side effects of this is that it's possible to fit more threads into the same space than you could fit in a plain weave, meaning that you can make a thicker fabric with thinner yarns going into the construction process.
And this means that, if you're judging a fabric thickness by weight, like you know how many ounces a yard of fabric is, a twill fabric will be made of finer yarns than a canvas fabric of the same weight.
In addition to being "higher quality", we like thinner yarns in garment construction because they're more flexible, so they make the fabric hang more like a garment and less like a canvas sack.
As a final note, when you say "provide volume as an underskirt", a twill skirt with pintucks and insertion will have some volume, but if you're doing a lolita fashion look, you'll also need petticoats under that. Some fashion styles, that added volume will be enough, but in lolita fashion, if you can get the hem of your skirt to be 10" away from your legs in all direction, you're probably approaching the correct level of poof.
(But for what it's worth, if you're trying to add some more volume on a cotton underskirt that's not for lolita fashion, pintucks will make the same skirt have more volume. Creating that rigid-ish line that goes in the direction opposite of what the skirt would naturally want to fold, especially if you make several of those lines in a close spacing, will hold the skirt out and make it have more lift. Just a fun fact there. If you want to get as much volume as possible out of this, you will want to use many small pintucks, as well as the stiffest insertion that you can find. Skirts want to be small and make lots of soft vertical folds, so applying horizontal decoration that makes that folding harder to do will add volume).
I don't know how much of that was answering the ask and how much was just Pink Loves Textile Science 2023(tm)
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arminizewithme · 8 months
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Some Vampire Ainosuke progress for ya! ❤️🦇
This was a stash-busting project I started last year and I really love how it's coming out. The shirt is cotton sateen and a commercial pattern, while I draped the pattern for the vest. The vest fashion fabric is a silk dupioni (harvested from a shirt I thrifted years ago...win lol) and I used up some twill & cotton for interlining and lining.
I'm also taking this opportunity to use up a bunch of beads and sequins and gold embroidery thread 👌✨️ make him extra.
The jabot is almost done- I draped the pattern and made it self-lined out of cotton sateen. The wig is also done, since I styled it for a different look of his.
I'm aiming to get him done for Halloween! Next step, the cloak. Lmk if you have any questions!
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pawsnread · 7 months
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Cubao Meets the Runway
I am back with another Cubao outfit, replicated from one of Gong Jun’s Paris Fashion Week looks.
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This is the Julien Fournie haute couture outfit GJ wore to walk the L’Oreal Defile show on October 2, 2023.
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Naturally, we started with the inner pieces first - pants and shirt.
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The pants (the easiest part of any bao outfit) is made in a black stretch sateen (my absolutely favorite fabric to work with). The shirt is a black poly satin thing…I don’t really know what it is, just something I picked up because it was the right sheen. A bit slippery to work with but looks nice overall.
These two pieces will be used multiple times in other outfits so I suspect they will get pretty good use.
The most laborious part was the jacket. The pattern I used is the same as for the shirt but sized up a bit. To get it to fit better, I quickly sewed in some darts in the fronts and back. They don’t look great or are evenly placed, but they get covered up by the beading and collar. But the sewing was the easy part.
And then came the beading.
One sleeve of beading took about an hour.
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After about 3 hours of work I had two sleeves and half a collar.
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A break for lunch and then the final press. Beading too out 6-7 hours total with breaks in between (I had Legend of Anle playing in the background as a rewatch and I went through 9 episodes).
I am pretty happy with the end result for something I swore I would never make but then had a sudden burst of inspiration. I think it paid off because Julien Fournie himself commented and reposted to his IG stories. 🫣
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And I’m not done with the Paris Fashion Week outfits because I have one more in the works. Please look forward to it.
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sweetjegus · 1 month
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🌌 STEVE GETS EVERYTHING’D EVERYWHERE’D ALL AT ONCE’D 🌌
(or: STEVE unlocks a Shenanigans Steve state and gets the TOH adults to dab)
Last day of Anime Los Angeles was truly “I want to be comfy and silly and not wear a wig” and who better to enable that but STEEEEEVE. 
Photos by David Harris; rambling under the cut.
Thrifted:
$5 for the yellow “Dog Mama” t-shirt (”Dog Mama” got appliquéd over with red vinyl, which was apparently the only suitable red fabric I had on hand for colour-matching the STEVE logo)
$10 for the black pleather jacket (added cuffs, elbow pads, painted pocket details, and reused the STEVE stencil I made ...for painting another STEVE on the back)
Made (in the span of a very focused week and entirely from stash fabric, s o m e h o w): 
Appliqué for the yellow shirt, with cutouts in the red vinyl to have inset white STEVE letters.
White hood dickie. 
Edits to the black pleather jacket.
Black velvet jester pants with grey sateen insets + the peeking-out tunic. 
Horn prosthetic. 
Synergy in the Emperor’s Coven — grabbed a soupy romance novel from the Little Free Library (that I have previously made deposits to) and gave it a ~ new life ~ 
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cheapieclassic · 2 years
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🥨 hello friends! I finally serviced my machine so I could make this super cute machine embroidered apron :)
It's made from thrifted cotton sateen (curtains), and I used the center front of my sundress bodice pattern to make a flattering fitted apron bib that doesnt look weird with my curves. The skirt is a full circle in 5 panels.
Styled with thrifted stuff: M&S shirt, linen cardigan, watch necklace and tiny leather handbag.
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expanding on the last post: What The Crimson Peak Costumes Are Made Of (I Think)
Lucille:
Blood Drop Dress (red party dress)- silk taffeta
Black dress- silk-velvet bodice and overskirt, silk taffeta underskirt
Blue dress- see above
Winter coat- wool
Robe and nightgown- silk habotai/china silk with a silk moire sash (moire pattern only visible in one BTS pic I've found so far)
Deleted scene undergarments- cotton sateen corset (I hope, given the wear to it), matching silk taffeta petticoat
Edith:
Buffalo Bookworm Suit (suit for her publisher's office)- silk taffeta
Park outfit- pleated silk habotai shirtwaist, silk taffeta skirt, belt likely a celluloid faux buckle and wool braid strap in-story and resin faux buckle + synthetic braid strap IRL
Carter's Office outfit- see above, just a different shirtwaist and with a silk tie
Buffalo nightwear set- cotton nightgown under a silk-velvet robe
Ball gown- silk satin with some sort of tulle underskirt briefly visible near the beginning and end of her dance scene
Heartbreak Dress (dinner party dress)- pleated lightweight silk, possibly habotai? but heavier than the fabric of her shirtwaists
Buffalo coat- wool
mourning dress- silk taffeta (the designer claims this is her wedding gown, but bereaved brides were HEAVILY pressured to leave off mourning on their wedding days, and I can't imagine the wedding and Carter's funeral would be on the same date anyway)
Allerdale coat- wool
Briefly-seen lingerie and net dressing gown- cotton or linen combinations which later appear in the sex scene, cotton sateen corset, dressing gown of what I imagine is crocheted silk cord + silk habotai
Nancy Drew Dress (canary-yellow dress)- silk satin
Allerdale nightwear set- silk satin robe with a pleated silk habotai nightgown underneath
Allerdale cape- wool
Thomas
Pretty much all of his outfits are wool suits over silk brocade waistcoats and linen shirts. with the exception of his formal outfit for the ball and dinner party, which appears to have a cotton shirt, white vest of a material I can't quite make out, and silk bow tie
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montgomery-cannon · 6 months
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@nano--byte
It was the best party of every Games - the Leather and Lace Party at BEEF. The celebration of launch happened every six months, and it was not to be missed. And Tuesday Addams was there, in full regalia. She was decked out in real, District Ten leather, though it would be incorrect to say from head to toe. Certainly from toe to thigh, in black leather boots, and from waist down in a gladiator style miniskirt. A black leather corset tightened around a flowing white peasants shirt, which was left fully open to expose her male chest, with the strings covered in fine leather.
A large scar, made out of rhinestones, cut through her intricate eye makeup, and black glitter was pressed into her beard to accent the bright red lipstick she wore. An fabulous white powdered wig, several times larger than should be possible, perched upon her head, but she was constantly picking at the edge of it with long, blood-red press on nails. Normally Sateen's creations were much more comfortable than this, but (in her defense) Montgomery had asked for a particularly extra hairpiece this time.
His favorite bartender, Hulk, was once again tending bar, and she leaned against the bar for a moment to take pressure off of the soles of her feet. Hulk giggled at the moan she let out. "Look, it's bad," Monty said. "Don't ever buy shoes from someone who also sells books. Can I get a -"
Hulk slid the fruity drink across the bar before he had finished his sentence. Monty blew a kiss to the man, then turned to see someone fully unexpected at the bar as well. Perhaps it was the flashing lights playing a trick on him.
"Nano?" he cooed, standing to the full six foot six he currently commanded (and ignoring the jot of pain that shot up his right foot in response). "Would never have taken you for this kind of party."
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three--rings · 2 years
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So, a while back I bought one yard of the OFMD velvet, with the intention of making myself either a corset, stays, or waistcoat of it. And then I decided I really want a reproduction of the banyan/dressing gown from the show. But I couldn't justify the cost of the full velvet yardage. So I ordered 5 yds of the woven cotton in the same print, for about the same cost of one yard of velvet. So let's compare.
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The cotton (they're both cotton but I mean non velvet) is much brighter, more hot pink than peachy pink. It's the same print and probably same colors but it takes better on the woven and just generally is a lot more vibrant.
I intend to pre-wash this on hot so we'll see if there's any bleed or fading. If so I want it to happen before I sew it.
The fabric itself is nice, thinner and with more drape than typical quilting cotton, more shirting weight. It's nice and soft, almost sateen on the right side. It should be very comfortable as light layer.
More as I progress with this project.
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peterfieldsberlin · 1 year
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Today’s inspiration features the Mountain Jacket by Manifattura Ceccarelli. Made of waxed cotton, which develops a unique patina over time and a breathable, temperature-regulating inner lining. - Mountain Jacket Wool Padding in dark tan by @manifatturaceccarelli - Merino Cashmere Scarf 2410 by @johnhanly1893 - Fatigue Shirt in olive sateen by @tellason_germany @tellason - Remix Business Bag in dark khaki by @bleudechauffe - Le Bonnet Beanie in graphite and slate grey by @lebonnetamsterdam - Sterling Silver Bangle Heavy and Necklace Cross & Shield handcrafted by @877workshop - Key Chain in matte silver by @smoky_sumis_store_ #worldwideshipping 📦 #ootd #outfitinspiration #details #menswear #mensfashion #mensweardaily #menstyle #bleudechauffe #accessories #jewelry #877workshop #manifatturaceccarelli #lebonnetamsterdam #johnhanly #smokysumisstore https://www.instagram.com/p/Cn9K11_rfOL/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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Outfit number 4 from Axis Powers Hetalia, Prussia’s Austrian Succession outfit~
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This had been the first time I made an outfit with so many details. Fancy buttons, lace trim, other gold looking trims and actually choosing fabrics for the way they complete the look, instead of just buying the cheapest fabric of the right colour. I wanted it to look absolutely fabulous and I think I quite succeeded.
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Most historical Hetalia outfits are very loosely based on the actual historical clothing of the time they represent. But since this one was… nowhere near accurate, I just went with the one (1!) reference picture and searched for patterns that came close to that. The jacket needed a lot of adjustments to the pattern, but was simple enough to make these possible. I used a not too heavy cotton in combination with a red terlenka for a partial lining at the bottom and a cherry suedine for the cuffs and collar. Sateen trimmings, white lace and gold coloured buttons were used for the details.
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Since some webcomic panels included a cape with this outfit, I wanted a cape! I used the same cherry suedine as the cuffs and collar to make it. A waistcoat pattern is easy to find and this one was made with a cotton blend with a light shine to it. The pants and shirt were bought. The hat was also bought and further detailed. I used the same combat boots I’ve been using with most past cosplays. They are very versatile and comfortable to wear.
Since I was making this outfit nearly parallel with another very similar one, I made the sash and jabot to fit both the outfits. Way better than making two sashes and jabots! (The similar outfit will be posted very soon~)
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The last picture is from Atsusacon in 2012. Con pictures are not the best quality, but they are fun~
And check the read more for the one (1) reference picture~
not even a face xD
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drabbleface · 2 years
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Sometimes we all need to enjoy some soft, cozy Swiss Ghoul cuddles! ♥ GN!Reader x Swiss x (brief) Terzo
You flop into bed with a deep sigh, exhaustion creeping up through your limbs as you nestle your face into the silky pillowcase that covers Terzo’s plush pillows. You’re spread out across the mattress like a starfish, not wanting to move, not wanting to function, not wanting to do a damn thing. You could lay here for a while, a good few hours - or maybe a few days, not that you’d be counting. Or maybe forever. Yes, forever sounded good. 
The Emeritus’ room is your solace - peace and quiet away from the hustle and bustle that is the Ministry lifestyle. There’s always something happening inside these old stone walls, but when you’re in Terzo’s lavish quarters, it’s as if time stands still; calm, cozy, soft, slow, no worries of what’s happening outside of these four walls. It’s where you’ve been finding yourself going to lately, welcoming you into his bed at night to snuggle in close by his side and take in his comfort and warmth. Right now, however, you’re soaking in the bliss of having an entire bed to yourself until his inevitable return. 
Said return, however, is sooner than you had anticipated, as the door creaks open. “Hello, my love,” you mumble into the sateen material, raising the volume of your voice so he could hear your muffled greeting. You didn’t raise your head - you truthfully didn’t want to - just your hand to scrunch your fingers in toward your palm in a half-attempted hand wave. 
“Hello to you too, kitten,” is the richly smooth reply in a voice that most certainly isn’t Terzo’s. The door latches and claws click along the ground as the being approaches and your head shoots up and over to take in the sight of Swiss approaching the side of the bed with one of his big smiles. “Look on your face tells me that wasn’t actually meant for me, though.”
“What are you…? Ghouls aren’t supposed to-“ you stammer out in confusion, scrambling to roll over onto your side and yank yourself up into a sitting position in the middle of the massive bed. Is this a prank? A dream? What’s going on?
“Don’t worry, Terzo knows,” Swiss says reassuringly, taking a few more languid steps before lifting and bending his knee to rest it onto the edge of the bed and pull himself up into it. “He says he’s going to be late and knows you’ve been pretty overworked today, so he asked me to come and check on you.” 
“Are you fucking with me?”
Swiss laughs, a hearty, big, warm laugh, as big as his pearly white smile, and he shakes his head. “Sweets,” he starts, reaching into the pocket of his pants and yanking out a set of keys, jingling them in the air before tossing them over to the nightstand. “He said he’d text you to give you a heads up and gave me the keys to his room. It’s all okay; you’re okay.”
“Oh.” Your phone was chiming off a bit ago, but you ignored it to instead immerse yourself in the plushness. “Are you sure I’m okay?”
“Mmmmm,” he ponders the answer as he crawls further up into the bed, squinting his pretty amber eyes at you playfully. “That’s a tough one to answer - you enjoy my company, so maybe not.” Without warning or hesitation, he scoops you up into his arms and brings you both down onto the bed, rumbling like a muscle car’s engine deep in his chest. His tail thumps against the bed behind himself and you settle into the curve of his body against your back; he’s the perfect temperature - not boiling hot like Dew, but not cold like Aether or Rain, and just a tad hotter than Terzo even at his warmest. You slip your feet between his massive pawed ones and settle your hands atop his resting at your stomach, which he has taken to lazily tracing swirls over the skin that has been exposed by the rise of your shirt. 
“Swiss?” There’s a haziness to your voice and you can’t fight the urge to close your eyes. 
Swiss is utterly content, nestling his face into the crook of your neck with a little, “hmmm…?” in response. Ghouls truly are like giant cats - given a warm place to lie and they’ll purr themselves right to sleep. 
“Thanks for doing this,” you murmur and settle further into his arms and body, in which his hold tightens around you, nails tracing up and over the skin of your hip. “I think I needed it.”
“You’re welcome, kitten. Thank Terzo, too.”
“When he comes in, I will.”
There’s a low, deep, soul-shattering chuckle and he lovingly nuzzles your shoulder. “You’ll be asleep by then.”
“So will you.”
“Maybe he’ll come join us.”
“… That sounds…”
“Nice? You like that idea, huh?”
“… Yeah, I do…”                                                         ____
Terzo steps into his dimly-lit room hours later to the sounds of deep breathing and soft snores, with the occasional shuffle of sheets from restless feet. He is pleased to see that Swiss has arrived as he had requested, and it seems the Ghoul is also as much, if going by the way he’s currently sleeping is any indication of it. You’re both sprawled across the bed - Swiss on his back and you with your head nestled between his arm and chest. There are limbs all over, cradling each other while also managing to entangle with each other like a jumbled mess of Christmas lights. There’s a tail around a calf, which is over one leg, bent at the knee, while one hand lays splayed out across his stomach and your other hiding somewhere under his body, and his own holding you by the shoulders as the other rests under the pillow under his head. You hadn’t even managed to make it under the covers; an attempt had been made, if the turned down comforter is any indication, but seems it was quickly forgotten. 
Terzo chuckles lowly and latches the door carefully, taking light steps forward toward the bed and gingerly grabs the comforter to pull it up over your sleeping forms. He pauses when Swiss stirs and settles back down, and lets out a bemused exhale as your face scrunches up and then softens. He leans in to peck the back of your head, which is most accessible to him, and whispers, “sleep tight, my dove.”
“But… I don’t want Sprite for brunch…” is your incoherent response, before you press your face into the demon’s chest with a small whine. “… It’s only… for…”
“… For?” the Emeritus asks and it’s a true struggle to keep himself from breaking into amused laughing. 
“… For… the good times…” Unconsciously, you pet Swiss’ lean stomach as you respond in a dreamily faded voice, and the Ghoul responds with a rumble and a tail-tipped thump under the sheets against your calf. 
The Papa wishes he has the forethought to record this - you’ll never believe this conversation come morning. “I see, I see. I will make sure that Sprite is not on our brunch menu. Rest easy, my darling. Nighty night.”
“… Only! Hmm… cranberries…” is your last insightful sleep thought, before a deep exhale escapes you and you’re blissfully and very softly snoring once more.
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mr-old-life · 1 year
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< orSlow-U.S ARMY SHIRT >
眾所皆知(眾?哪邊的眾?小眾啦)OG 107的OG 代表橄欖綠之色彩縮寫,這款活躍於越戰時期的美軍襯衫,即便戰事結束後仍因其簡單大器的線條輪廓加以實穿性,被大量歸鄉士兵於日常中反覆穿著,那些有著手繪塗鴉、肩章名條、縫補痕跡的古著老品,相信你一定也看過摸過。
而orSlow 季節限定的U.S ARMY SHIRT ,這回可不OG,改以ECRU 淺米色登場。
由面料上重現的60'S風格軍襯衫,使用品牌獨有重磅Sateen 緞紋布,外觀上明顯可見的不均勻紋理,將隨著時間推移開始產生變化;迴異橄欖綠軍事元素,米色更加柔和、溫潤些許,並且跟著穿用將沾染上自身色彩。不信?買一件試試看!
https://mrold.waca.ec/product/detail/1511977/orslow-us-army-shirt-eurc
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pawsnread · 7 months
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Cubao emulating Gong Jun and wearing his latest bao couture.
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15 cm Xiao Cubao in his version of the Elie Saab couture cape from Paris Fashion Week.
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This outfit was much more involved than the previous two. It involved a lot of materials and new construction styles.
Materials used included:
-Caviar stretch sateen
-Black casa satin
-Black polyester lining
-Black stretch shirting
-DMC Diamant embroidery thread in light silver
-DMC embroidery floss in black
-3mm flat black sequins
-Miyuki Delica 11/0 in transparent light blue AB
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Approximately 42 hours construction time divided into:
-2 hours for the base layers (shirt and pants)
-2-3 hours cape pattern which included figuring out the shape, embellishment design, mock up, and fit
-33 hours hand embroidery, sequins, and beading
-4 hours final sewing
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The original ES outfit includes an inner jacket. The bao version includes two faux front panels hand whip stitched to mimic a jacket.
I promises a couple of people their own versions of custom bao suits, but after this I need a break. I suspect, knowing me, it won’t be long because I have a few other outfits I want to replicate.
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