witch!newt

inspiration by @crestfallercanyon

BNHA Chapter 168: Thoughts and Spoilers

This chapter frustrated me so let’s get straight into it.

I wanna start with saying that this chapter blind sided me so hard that I want to revoke every theory I presented last week about Aoyama, but, on the other hand, I was blind sided so hard that I understand less arguably. So I suppose I won’t revoke any of my previous theories, but I don’t have any particular faith in them any more after this chapter.

Deku saw Aoyama on his veranda, and was thoroughly spooked. I would be too. Aoyama left a serial-killer-esque letter composed of different cheeses for Deku to find that read “I know.” The school day proceeds fairly normally except Aoyama winks at Deku when class first starts and the narrator takes over for a while (aka future number 1 hero Deku). Class 1-A is let out so they can do their hero course work and we see some light-hearted chit chat. Kaminari makes a comment that recently pro heroes are getting into hero groups and working as a team. This comment could have been thrown in for the sake of the readers, so we can better understand the “political climate” of the hero world. With the symbol of peace gone, heroes working in groups would feel safe, though I imagine they would have lost some mobility, so small crimes may be easier to get away with.

Everyone goes into the gym and starts working on their super moves and their hero skills. Kirishima just wants people to kick the crap outta him, calling out Satou, Bakugou, and Deku specifically. Deku declines and as Bakugou goes to fight Kirishima, Bakugou asks if Deku has improved at all. I think this is interesting cause Bakugou is the one checking, not Deku telling. After the whole raid arc, Bakugou must have been curious, and I think that Deku is selling himself short. Even if his skills did not increase, his experience and knowledge did. Something I have been thinking about recently is how Bakugou has quite a bit less experience with combat than Deku. Deku has fought Todoroki all out, Stain, Muscular, and now Chisaki. Deku also came up with the rescue plan to get Bakugou away from the League of Villains (not the plan to do it, but the plan to jump out of hiding and grab him and leave). Bakugou on the other hand has fought a half-hearted Todoroki, fended off some henchmen that were “weak” from the USJ envasion, partolled with Best Jeanist, fought Moonfish (I think his name was) with Todoroki and I believe some other type of restriction, he was escorted through the camp site by his class mates, kidnapped and forced on the defensive instead of actually fighting, and hasn’t fought anyone since. IN sheer experience, Deku has the clear lead, not only in combat, but also coming up with a plan and executing it in a high tension situation. The whole point of that was Bakugou was checking on Deku, I don’t think there was any care there, but Bakugou tried to trust Deku by giving an honest answer, which Deku did not actually do, at least not in Bakugou’s eyes. Recently I heard a conversation that bullies are dependent on the people they bully, but I don’t see Bakugou as dependent on Deku, Bakugou feels threatened by Deku and that is the reason why he acts the way he does. This simple check in was just Bakugou trying to see Deku’s side of things, while still containing that competitive edge to it.

Anyway, Deku says he won’t beat up Kirishima, and makes eye contact with Aoyama, who tells him to look, and laser-blasts a lot of rocks (I’d like to add that the first rock he lasers while making direct eye contact with Deku. Aoyama is an enigma cause as soon as I assume something, he goes and surprises me). After he blasts the rocks, he writes a french phrase in one of the rocks that says “still water runs deep” (at least that is what I have read from others talking about this panel). Some people have taken this phrase as a warning, as some kind of deeper message. Aoyama doubles over cause his quirk hurts his stomach and Deku helps him over to the side. Once there, Deku directly asks Aoyama what that cheese message meant. Aoyama says that they are the same, and that their quirks don’t fit their bodies. Deku would break in the the early arcs whenever he used his quirk and Aoyama says that when he was a kid his laser power would leak and cause problems without the belt. Deku visibly relaxes and says that the cheese surprise Aoyama left was a huge success, This next panel bothers me because Aoyama does not react happily to this, he hardly reacts at all. He seemed more depressed than anything, which could lead to more theories, but I’ll only briefly talk about those later. Aoyama then craps his pants. That is canon.

Fast forward a day or two and Aoyama and Deku have become friends, Mina and Kaminari made remarks between each other that Aoyama has visibly perked up or have become more lively. Even the narrator (future Deku) says that they became friends. Future Deku needs to stop being an unreliable narrator. “Long internship” “True colors” geez man, does Aoyama’s dramatics rub off on Deku in the future? (I will admit, I like the idea that Deku becomes a character with a lot of connections to very different types of people who he is all friends with. A space/gravity hero? Yep. Frog hero? Yep. Blasty hero? Yep. Hero with engine legs? Yep. Sparkle hero? Yep. This also extends to future generations of heroes or even people who are police officers or other oddly connected groups)

Alright, so I am gonna discuss some theories, but they aren’t mine, just stuff I’ve read (this first one was from a post I read by redhairedanne, sorry I don’t really know how to give proper credit). Aoyama is a spy. He is the “counter-traitor” that has been keeping an eye on the students to try to figure out the real traitor. I like this, because the last two chapters have put a really strange emphasis on Aoyama and I think that he must have some kinda role in the story, also the really weird french phrase has been interpreted as being mistrustful of someone. There have also been theories that Aoyama is just that he is excruciatingly awkward and this was the only real way he could start a conversation. There were probably others, but the traitor theories were gone into pretty deeply last week by me and others. so here are my last comments, aka, things we know for certain about Aoyama: he is really observant, he has had several panels and now full chapters that cast some sort of suspicion on his person, he tried to foil the Bakugou kidnapping at camp, he has very few friends (possibly only Deku as his only friend), he is really committed to his aesthetic, and he hasn’t taken initiative on hardly anything (the only times being at the hero license exam and at the camp, the first was a guerrilla attack and the second seemed self-sacrificing though he did get his license).

That’s all I’ve got to say, I am actually surprised this post is as long as it did because I was planning on just saying “oh jeez man I don’t know what’s happening at this point” then duck out. Well despite that, thank you for reading and I hope you have a great day.

((I am still fairly new to tumblr, so if there is any etiquette I am missing out on, whether it is sourcing things, tags, whatever that submission thing is in my options menu is, please let me know. I’d appreciate it. Ok. That’s it for real. Have a good one.))

Attraction Review: Orlando Light Museum

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HOT ROD RESCUE: 1966 Chevelle with Starter & Ignition Problems

The Combo

Starting with a rolling shell and lots of parts boxes, Dave Miracle restored this garage-find 1966 Chevelle SS from the ground up.

Kenosha, Wisconsin’s Dave Miracle has been into cars since high school. Like many of us, he took time off to raise three kids—that is, until he discovered a bare-bones 1966 Chevelle that had laid dormant in a friend’s garage for 20 years. “Even though it was basically just a shell with a bunch of parts and boxes, it was too good a deal to pass up,” Miracle relates. About the only drivetrain part remaining was the original factory 3.73:1 12-bolt Posi rearend. Sparing no effort, Miracle had the frame and control arms powdercoated. “Everything went tenfold from there: all-new interior, suspension and brakes, glass and trim, fluid lines, and stainless-steel bolts throughout. I wanted a no-hassle street driver but with plenty of get up and go, so I went for a 496ci Rat motor from Ateco Engine in Illinois. Behind it is a TCI TH400 and 2,800-rpm-stall torque converter.”

Kenosha, Wisconsin’s Dave Miracle has been into cars since high school. Like many of us, he took time off to raise three kids—that is, until he discovered a bare-bones 1966 Chevelle that had laid dormant in a friend’s garage for 20 years. “Even though it was basically just a shell with a bunch of parts and boxes, it was too good a deal to pass up,” Miracle relates. About the only drivetrain part remaining was the original factory 3.73:1 12-bolt Posi rearend. Sparing no effort, Miracle had the frame and control arms powdercoated. “Everything went tenfold from there: all-new interior, suspension and brakes, glass and trim, fluid lines, and stainless-steel bolts throughout. I wanted a no-hassle street driver but with plenty of get up and go, so I went for a 496ci Rat motor from Ateco Engine in Illinois. Behind it is a TCI TH400 and 2,800-rpm-stall torque converter.”

The Problem

Dave Miracle’s built 10.4:1, 496ci Rat motor had a big problem: hard starting. The engine cranked slowly and the starter tended to kick-back.

“Realizing that I was not the person who took the car apart,” Miracle continues, “I thought putting it back together would be the most difficult part of the project—but I was wrong. When the car was done, it would slow down on cranking. When you released the ignition key when it did start, it felt like a kick in the teeth. There was a screaming sound as if you kept the ignition key in crank too long after the engine started. Sometimes it would backfire. This could happen at any time, but was worst after the car heated up. Everything was brand new with all the good parts, so I first thought there was something wrong with the tune.”

Dave Miracle’s 1966 Chevelle received the best of everything, including this built 496 Rat motor. But even with a Powermaster Torque XS starter, an Optima battery, 2-gauge battery cables, and a serpentine-belt setup driving a one-wire, 105-amp, CS130 alternator, he had big-time cranking problems. As Westech’s crew would discover, there were both mechanical and electrical causes.

Key

The lettered callouts at the beginning of each line below refer to the photo above. Any numbers or range of numbers at the end of a category line refer to numbered drawings and photos in the rest of this article below.

A] Starter/flexplate gear mesh (01–08)

B] Voltage tests, wiring changes (09–10)

C] Better grounds and terminals (11–19)

D] AWG 6 charging wire (20)

E] Remove ignition resistor wire

F] Clean out bulkhead connector (21)

The Mechanical Diagnosis and Fix

One of our go-to rescue shops, Norm Brandes’ Westech Automotive, is a stone’s throw away from Kenosha. When Brandes got the car, he confirmed the slow cranking and starter kick-back. Was it just a tuning issue like the owner thought? “These symptoms can occur if the timing was excessively retarded,” Brandes explains, “So we started by putting in a reasonable base timing of 12 degrees at the crank. That didn’t help at all, so we suspected a mechanical or electrical issue. Miracle’s Powermaster gear-reduction ministarter should have had more than enough cranking torque to get the job done.”

01] The starter was a real screamer; the flexplate had a serious case of tooth decay.

Brandes first checked for mechanical interference between the starter drive pinion and flexplate ring gear. He discovered chipped flexplate ring-gear teeth, a sure sign of a mechanical issue. Mechanical causes of drive pinion-to-ring-gear bind may include:

Wrong tooth-engagement depth clearance between the crown of the drive-pinion gear and the root of the flexplate gear. On the Chevelle, this clearance was within spec.

02] Starter noise and kickback may be caused by improper clearances. The Chevelle’s pinion-to-flexplate tooth depth clearance checked OK. The spec is 0.020–0.035-inch clearance as measured from the starter pinion-gear valley to flexplate ring-gear tooth tip.

03] A standard 0.035-inch thick paperclip makes a good gauging tool. Shim the starter-to-block mounting pad as needed with the flat shims, slightly longer starter-to-block mounting bolts, and washers contained in Powermaster’s bolt/shim kit PN 607-2. Summit Racing

Summit Racing

Wrong clearance between the back of the flexplate ring gear and the front edge of the teeth on the starter pinion. In the engaged position, the drive-pinion gear should be nearly on-center with the flexplate ring gear, but on the Chevelle, it was too far forward. To correct the for-and-aft engagement clearance problem as well as assess the starter’s physical condition, Brandes shipped the starter to Powermaster in nearby Chicago for inspection. Even though the flexplate ring gear was shelled, Powermaster determined it was physically OK. As Brandes puts it, “We expected damage after all the abuse, but the Powermaster turns out to be the Plymouth Rock of starters!” Powermaster’s techs corrected this problem by adding an extra internal shim.

04] In the engaged position, the Powermaster starter’s drive pinion teeth were too far forward on the ring-gear teeth.

05] Gauging proper tooth fore-and-aft alignment is based on the “air gap” with the pinion in the unengaged (retracted) position. The air gap should be about ⅟₁₆ inch or slightly more from the back side of ring gear to the front edge of the starter pinion teeth.

06] The Chevelle initially had a 0.200-inch air gap, solved by adding the large circular shim (arrows) from Powermaster’s bolt/shim kit 607-2 between the starter’s main body and mounting block. (Photo: Dave McILvaine / Powermaster)

Excessive flexplate runout. While rotating the flexplate, Brandes also noticed the clearance amount between the flexplate ring gear and the front edge of the teeth on the starter pinion had also changed slightly. Sure enough, an initial runout check revealed a way out-of-spec flexplate. That said, relaxing tension by backing off the torque converter mounting-bolt nuts brought flexplate runout within spec, indicating the problem was really with the converter. Believe it or not, the height of one converter mounting-pad turned out to be shorter than the other two—easily solved by shimming the short pad to equal the height of the other two pads. The old flexplate with its chipped teeth was replaced by a Scat externally balanced Chevy 454 SFI-certified flexplate.

07] Check flexplate runout with a dial-indicator positioned on the flexplate’s rear face while hand-rotating the engine. The Chevelle initially had up to 0.038-inch runout, with the greatest distortion near the flexplate’s chipped teeth (marked in white).

08] Loosening the torque converter mounting-bolt nuts (arrow) reduced runout to 0.002 inch (up to 0.005 is OK). Brandes checked the converter mounting pad height and found one lug was shorter than the other two. Installing one 0.031-inch plus one 0.007-inch shim between the short lug and the flexplate equalized the height.

The Electrical Diagnosis

09] Powermaster’s Dave McILvaine helped Westech Automotive’s techs troubleshoot the starting circuit’s voltage drop issues.

The starter was no longer screaming and kicking back, but cranking remained slow and lazy. Electrical gremlins like this are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. Powermaster engineer Dave McILvaine showed up with a handful of digital multimeters to figure out where the ignition and charging circuit was losing current. Starting at Miracle’s trunk-mounted battery, he checked the charging and cranking system for voltage drop on each side of every connector, terminal, and junction while cranking the engine. This includes the often-overlooked grounds, which are part of the full circuit.

These tests must be performed with the battery fully charged to 12.6 volts. To be sure you’re not just seeing a battery surface charge, turn on your headlights for 2 minutes with the engine off. Shut everything down. If the static (no-draw) charge is still 12.5 volts, you’re good to go. If not, you may have a battery issue. Downstream from the battery, a 0.1–0.3V drop across most connectors is acceptable; anything more is cause for concern. Collectively, under crank at the starter solenoid battery (B+) terminal, you should see a minimum 10–10.5 volts (see electrical diagram, illustration 10). On the Chevelle, voltage sagged as low as 7 volts at the B+ terminal and the readings fluctuated. “We were getting inconsistent high-voltage drop from poor grounds and bad crimps,” McILvaine says.

10] The Chevelle had severe voltage drops and inadequate wiring. This diagram calls out the necessary upgrades and changes needed to make the Chevelle’s electrical system perform properly. Lettered callouts and diamond symbols designate voltage test point locations and optimal values (see legend for details). Compare this electrically correct diagram to the engine bay photo above. Numbered callouts reference detailed photos. (Photo: Ryan Lugo, Dave McILvaine, Marlan Davis)

However, the long “Solenoid S” ignition cranking circuit that runs from the starter “B+” terminal to the alternator charge wire, ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and back to the S terminal—often a problem on old GM cars—surprisingly checked out OK once the master firewall bulkhead connector was purged of excess sealing goop.

As for the battery cables and charge wires, Miracle’s No. 2 AWG battery cable size was sufficient for the system, but he was still relying on the original factory 12-gauge alternator charging wires with a much more powerful, late-model, 105-amp CS130 one-wire alternator, an upgrade Miracle installed to support high-draw modern accessories including air conditioning, electric fans, and an electric fuel pump. And the ignition wasn’t operating at full power because the MSD standalone breakerless distributor was still receiving current through the original 1966 ballast-resistor wire. Like GM’s big-cap HEI, the MSD unit must receive a full 12 volts at crank and at least 13.7 volts in Run to be all it can be.

The Fix: Electrical

A couple tenths [voltage] drop here, a couple tenths there, pretty soon you’re asking, ‘Where did all my 12 volts go?’” — Norm Brandes

11] Westech’s giant battery cable terminal crimper (rear) is way better than vice-mounted guillotine devices, and it only costs around $40. His compact, right-angle, Huck 150 rivet nut setter (front) is fairly pricey, with even used ones going for $150. We’ve seen workable straight pneumatic setters under $70. The mandrel needed to install a ⅜-inch insert usually must be bought separately.

Ground integrity was compromised by a powdercoated frame and sheetmetal ground screws. Westech installed rivet nuts—blind, self-upsetting, internally threaded inserts—in the frame to serve as ground-terminal hook-ups. Brandes says the install process using his hydraulic setting tool provides great metal-to-metal contact, while the rivet nut’s full-length “real” threads permit use of standard bolts and washers. NAPA’s electrically conductive Sil-Glyde multipurpose, silicone-based lubricant further enhanced ground integrity.

12] A better idea: rivet nuts that ensure good metal-to-metal contact and accept standard bolts. These inserts also work for structural attachments in boxed frames or tight-clearance situations where it’s difficult or impossible to install a standard nut. Use a ½-inch bit to drill out the hole for a ⅜-inch rivet nut, then drive-in the insert using the setting tool.

13] Similar to a blind rivet but with internal threads, a rivet nut forms a big bulb on the blind or “upset” side.

Miracle’s battery cable terminals were too small for the cable size, and poorly crimped. The terminals were cut off and replaced with high-quality, crimp-style terminals using a quality crimping tool. Two additional ground straps were added to positively tie the engine to the frame.

14] Major causes of Miracle’s cranking voltage drops include undersized, poorly terminated battery cables (shown), a powdercoated frame, and reuse of old sheetmetal grounding screws.

15] Brandes’ crimp tool (photo 11) has different dies for various large cable sizes. After selecting the correct die, place the terminal between the crimper jaws. Slide on a piece of shrink-tube down past the crimping area. Strip the conductor and shove it all the way into the barrel.

16] Close the levers to complete the crimp.

17] This is a completed battery-cable crimp.

18] A new ground terminal crimp with bolt and internal/external ground washer ready to install.

19] The battery ground cable with proper crimp bolts into the new Nutsert on Miracle’s immaculate powder-coated frame.

Powermaster offers preterminated alternator charge-wires; a new 6-gauge charge wire was run independently from the solenoid B+ circuit to the alternator. The original 12-gauge factory charge wires were left intact to support the existing harness connections and distribution scheme that fans out from the (typical for old Chevys) horn relay busbar. Overlaying the factory red wires instead of disturbing or replacing them also kept the stock ammeter working, though it does read slightly high.

20] A new 6-gauge charging wire (A) fully supports Miracle’s 105-amp CS130 one-wire alternator. The old factory 12-volt red wire (B) remains connected to support the original wiring harness configuration.

The stock ballast-resistor-wire-to-coil-positive-“run” wire was replaced by a standard 12-gauge high-temp GXL wire, ensuring full-power ignition output; no longer required, the old solenoid R-terminal bypass wire was eliminated. Parts Hound sells the weird Twin Lock terminal needed for the firewall bulkhead connector end of the new wire.

21] Voltage drop at the master firewall connectors was caused by excessive sealing goop inside the shell that created so much pressure the multiwire connectors had difficulty seating and locking together (excessive grease, bottom, versus normal amount needed for corrosion and sealing protection, top).

The Results

It’s a Miracle! Once Westech whipped the battery cables, grounds, and charging wires into shape so Powermaster’s ministarter could crank at its full 200–lb-ft capacity, the Chevelle now starts right up with minimal cranking duration and no kickback. The engine also runs a lot smoother now that the ignition runs at full power.

Just a guy and his car—two “miracles.” Fixed at last the no longer cranky motor still screams, but now in the “blow your doors off” sense!

Lessons Learned

Powdercoated frames look cool, but require that extra attention be paid to ground integrity. Sheetmetal screws do not make for a good ground point. “If you take care of the grounds, 90 percent of your electrical gremlins go away,” Brandes says. “Voltage drop adds up, so pay attention to every terminal and connector in the system. Beware of poor terminations!”

Need Junk Fixed? If your car has a gremlin that just won’t quit, you could be chosen for Hot Rod to the Rescue. Email us at [email protected] and put “Rescue” in the subject line. Include a description of your problem, a photo, your location, and a daytime phone number.

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