OTO Bébé Chérie // analogue mixer (France, 2023)

Hazed Out AU - Chapter 1

Author’s note: i know that we are all sobbing over the new episode, which is a great moment to drop the first chapter of our AU, so that y’all get more content to enjoy and distract yourself from all the pain that the episode caused, because it has nothing to do with the new episode even though it’s still a bit messed up, but still take it! i hope that all of you get to enjoy it, as we worked really hard on it! -mod Cinna

The contestants patiently stood in the field, waiting as they bickered in between themselves and talking about pretty much anything that came to mind in the peaceful early morning. The sun’s gentle rays of light gave a soothing warmth as MePhone stepped into the area, standing in front of the contestants as they quickly went quiet and drifted their attention towards the small smartphone. Mephone shifted, resting his hands on his hips as he took a quick glance to MePad, his ever so intelligent assistant, watching and standing beside him.

“Greetings and salutations!” MePhone spoke, his deep although quite cheerful voice resonating audibly as he gave his characteristic greeting. “I hope that everyone is ready for today’s challenge! It will depend entirely on your own ability to work together as a team and come up with something new and interesting” the host explained excitedly. The contestants just took their time to attentively listen to his instructions, “today’s challenge will be for each team to come up with their very own performance act, you will be scored in a scale of 1 to 20 depending on how spectacular your display of talent gets to be!” MePhone grinned at his own playful wording, enjoying himself quite a bit as some of the contestants gave him an annoyed glance. others snickered a bit, although their expression quickly changed to a more annoyed one as Cheesy took care of slapping his knee audibly shortly after, making his presence known in his own, quite obnoxious, way.

“Anyways…” MePhone drifted, refocusing himself on the subject at hand. “You will be judged by a few other guests and I, so I’d recommend that all of you do your best in the presentation! You have until tonight to come up with something and rehearse it, so all of you better hurry and get things going!” The host explained calmly, some of the contestants being visibly annoyed at how little time they had to get ready for the challenge. “And… what are you going to do in the meantime while we are busy with the performance?” PaintBrush asked, their voice tone consisting of curiosity, but believing that he was probably just going to sit around and not do much anyways.

“Well, PaintBrush, I’ll be taking care of setting the stage up for tonight, which isn’t an easy task as the equipment is actually quite heavy, complex, and annoying to get ready and going” MePhone complained, visibly irritated at having to do it himself. Unfortunately he really didn’t have anyone else that could help him carry around the equipment as Toilet would probably break them, and they were too heavy to be pushed around by MePad.

“I’d recommend that everyone gets around to working on their acts as soon as possible, you don’t have much time to work with and get things ready. I hope that everyone gets to do well in their performances and we will see you tonight, remember to not be late.” MePad noted, watching as the contestants dispersed into their own respective teams and left the area. Each of them moved to more private places so that the other team wouldn’t try to copy their performance.

MePhone turned around, gesturing MePad to follow him as they both left, chatting a bit together meanwhile they went to do their own tasks as well.

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                                                   Time skip

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MePhone shifted, holding firmly onto the large box he carried in his arms, trying to get onto the stage as he carefully walked up the stairs. He watched where he placed his feet as to not fall nor drop the box. This one being particularly heavy, filled with equipment that will be used to prepare the stage for the performances of both teams.

The small smartphone gave a soft sigh, taking a few moments to admire the peaceful evening silence and the sky’s landscape, the gentle gradient of oranges, purples and dark blues reminding the host that nighttime is getting near, and alongside it the presentation of the acts created by the teams. MePhone quickly snapped out of his thoughts, getting back to the task in hand and taking a few more steps across the stage, his dark shoes clicking gently against the wooden floor. while he lowered the large box he heard a soft rattle as the equipment all shifted inside, he placed the box onto the wooden floorboards of the stage.

MePhone lowered himself onto the floor as well, kneeling down beside the large box and starting to unpack its contents, taking several long cables out, some thin and some others fairly big, along with a few controllers and other miscellaneous electronics. He placed them onto the floor one after another, untangling them in the process to make it easier for him to work with them.

After a few moments of unpacking electronics, MePhone got interrupted by a quite annoying but all-too-familiar voice, making him jump a bit in his place. “MISTAH PHONE!” Toilet, the fairly loud and silly assistant called out, jumping onto the stage with the small smartphone, who just gave an irritated glance his way. “what is it, Toilet?” MePhone asked, his tone of voice clearly portraying his irritation at having the relaxing quiet of the evening be disturbed by his loud assistant. “Are ya almost done here?” Toilet asked back in his usual excited tone, “yeah, just go get MePad and the contestants; It’s almost time for the presentation” Mephone requested, getting up shortly after from his spot on the floor as he gestured Toilet to leave, just wanting to get everything set up already.

“OKaY, Mistah pHONe!” the cheerful assistant exclaimed, hopping off the stage and leaving the area as MePhone continued, getting behind a large speaker that was hidden behind the curtains and pushing it forwards, placing it so that it was closer to the edge of the stage, doing the same with another speaker located in the contrary end of the platform, before he grabbed a few of the large cables that rested on the floor.

Mephone kneeled down beside one of the speakers, starting to connect the cords into one of them, hearing the satisfying click it did as it was plugged in, before getting back up.

MePhone walked calmly to the other one, sitting back down as he heard everyone else approaching the area in the distance, struggling quite a bit as he tried to make the cord connect, not really being able to tell if the cable was bended or if it just wasn’t the correct one for the speaker, pressing his hands against the back of it as he tried to make the wire connect.

“Hello, sir” MePad greeted, calling MePhone’s attention as he took a glance towards the origin of the voice, “Hey, MePad.” the host greeted back, watching as the intelligent tablet walked up towards the stage alongside the contestants, some wearing hats, capes or ribbons of some sort for their presentations, cheerfully chatting amongst themselves, some also having sheets of paper in their hands, reading as they walked, doing what the smartphone supposed was rehearsing their acts.

“Hey, Mistah Phone! I’ll turn the power on now!!” MePhone suddenly stopped on his tracks, jolting in surprise as he heard Toilet. “Wait! Toilet, Don’t!—“ Before the smartphone could properly reply, he saw the lights turn on, blinding him for a small moment before he felt a sharp pain shot through and up his arms, freezing him in place as the intense pain spread across his body, overwhelming his system, making him glitch out as a few sparks came out of where his hands were placed against the speaker, barely able to tell much of what was going on as the intense electricity spread throughout his body.

“AAahH! A-A-a-A-AaAH!—” Mephone screamed out in pain, getting cut off and drawn out as his screen flickered on and off repeatedly, his teeth jittering as he shook in place, eyes open wide in shock as static and glitches spread across his screen. “Toilet! Turn it off!! Now!!” Baseball called out, everyone watching how it all happened so quickly and suddenly with concerned and shocked expressions, not knowing what to do as the lights flickered on and off repeatedly, before turning off completely.

The small smartphone collapsed, slamming his side against the wooden floorboards, making a small crack on his screen due to the impact as his screen continued glitching and flickering, a distorted warning that he was overheating appearing in his screen as his body twitched in place due to the intense electricity shock, before his screen, alongside his system, shut down entirely, totally unresponsive now as he laid unconscious.

to be continued....

How do earphone cords get tangled in the pocket?

Many people like to use their phones to listen to music or watch movies, so in order not to disturb others or to maintain sound quality, they need to use the earphone cable. People in the home or by car will carry your earphones, but feel annoyed, earphones line tend to tangle together in my pocket, and even killed knot, even if the start is neatly folded, in the end came out often inexplicably intertwined, these cables like knot themselves.

So do earphone cords really tie themselves? And why does it do this strange thing? If you cut the cord open, you'll find that the inside is filled with metal wires made of thermoplastic elastic material, which tends to bend when the ratio of length to width is completely out of balance. In some cases, the wire will spin inside, further exacerbating the imbalance and eventually causing the wires to tangle.

In addition, the earphones have two split ends, which make it easier to wrap the wire around the neck and connect it to the two different ears, but the split ends also cause the wires to become entangled because of the unbalanced force on the wires, which means all three wires are entangled.

The body usually wobbles, so when you put the cord in your pocket, it wobbles and rubs against your pocket. In order to maintain a fixed state, or to maintain the stability of the internal structure of the earphone cable, it will choose to wind itself, which increases the friction between each other and ensures that the influence of external forces can be offset. In general, the greater the amount of exercise, the more likely the structural stability of the headphone cable is to be affected, so it has to strengthen the winding, and even several knot.

 Headphone cord tangles are often associated with mathematics known as the Jones polynomials, but researchers have also studied the phenomenon in detail.

They found that knots were most likely to occur when ropes were between 46 and 150 centimeters long. When less than 46 cm, the rope almost never knotted itself. Over 150cm, the probability of tangles is also low, and the length of the headphone cable is generally around 140cm, which supports the claim that headphone cables are prone to tangles.

But there's another factor that needs to be satisfied when the cord knots in the agitated state: enough space.

Typically, those who were placed in a small box of cables will not appear knot phenomenon, because it is not enough stretch space to knot, and narrow space also let your headphones parts tightly together, so itself to strengthen the friction force between each other, convenient it is to maintain a stable state, so there is no need to through the knot to solve the problem of unbalanced force.

Understand the principle of the headphone wire knot and some conditions of the knot, for effectively avoid the headphone wire knot is very helpful.

The simplest and most effective way is to reduce the space, or you can use a thicker cable.

Have it, have fun!

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Super fast instant read！habor meat thermometers can read temperature out in 4-6 seconds no worry overcook again a must have kitchen tool for christmas turkey, steak, cake, pie, cookie, a practical kit for thanksgiving dinner that works great with baster and roaster.   Meat Thermometer, Bluetooth Digital Cooking Thermometer WEINAS 6-Probe-Ports Alarm Monitor BBQ Grill Thermometer, IMPROVED Stainless Steel Probes Wireless Thermometer for Food Smoker Oven Kitchen Meat Thermometer, Bluetooth Digital Cooking Thermometer WEINAS 6-Probe-Ports Alarm Monitor BBQ Grill Thermometer, IMPROVED Stainless Steel Probes Wireless Thermometer for Food Smoker Oven Kitchen - ✔6 probes channels, our bluetooth cooking thermometer allows easy monitoring of up to 6 different meats at different temperatures same time, perfect for multitasking, comes with 2 probes in standard configuration the extra 4 could be purchased separately here for your need ◆no open fire flame on probes◆. ✔Higher heat resistance stainless steel probes, our wireless grilling thermometer is upgraded by improving the probes stability, durability and accurateness while monitoring your food which stand higher temperatures than the original silicone handle probesmeasures up to 572 f and withstands up to 716 f perfect for both fast readout and longtime monitoring, and it’s also perfect to monitor smoker temperatures besides the meats100% oven safe. ✔Preset temperatures, pre-programmed temperatures and doneness levels for 11 types of food recommended by usda and all the temps can be reset manually as you requirethe current and the target temperature displays on phone and the food thermometer simultaneously, no more overcooked or undercooked meats. ✔smartphone app control&monitor, scan qr code or search chugod from the app store and google play store to download app for this digital thermometer works with both ios devices (iphone 4s/5/5s/6/7 & later models+ ipod touch 5th, ipad 3rd or later, all ipad mini) and android phones(version 43 & later models,with bluetooth 40 module) ◆100% lifetime guarantee love it or pay nothing ◆. ✔Stable bluetooth & alarm feature, fast&easy paring to phone and stable bluetooth connection allows you to monitor grilling temperatures from 165 feet range without experiencing disconnections continuously monitoring your grill or smoker and lets know when food is ready(reach to your preset temps) with alarms ring your phone and kitchen thermometer no more worry about burning, just insert the probes of this barbecue thermometer into food and walk away with total peace of mind.   Admetior Kitchen Oven Thermometer Admetior Kitchen Oven Thermometer - Durable. Oven safe. Wide temperature range 50 degrees f, 500 degrees f. Full stainless steel construction. Hanger and stand included.   iDevices Pro Meat Probe Kitchen Thermometer iDevices Pro Meat Probe Kitchen Thermometer - Box contents include 1 pro ambient temperature probe, 1 probe wrap, 2 colored probe indicators to identify multiple temperature simotaneously. Keep your oven’s temperature just where you need it the air temperature displayed on your oven often is inaccurate. Stay alert using the idevices app to connect to your bluetooth enabled devices. This ambient temperature probe features bluetooth-smart ready device providing you with alerts to precise temperature keeping your recipes from going awry.   Meat Thermometer YXwin Cooking Thermometer Digital Instant Read Thermometer Foldable Steel Probe Magnetic Kitchen Thermometer Red Meat Thermometer YXwin Cooking Thermometer Digital Instant Read Thermometer Foldable Steel Probe Magnetic Kitchen Thermometer Red - Simple use, press the power on, dislodge the long wireless probe from its folded lock position, insert it into your food and in 4-5 seconds you will have accurate and easy to read temperatures on an lcd display with backlight, no more burning or sweating waiting for the gauge to stabilize. Multi function, yxwin kitchen thermometer measures temperature accurately and ensures perfect cooking not only of hard but also liquid meals it is suitable for gas bbq, turkey/chicken fryer, baby food, making sugar/candy or even baking. Super fast reading, yxwin meat thermometer gets temp readout within 4-7 seconds you know the exact temperature of your meal on a digital lcd display quick thermometer measuring is secure for your baby. Highly accurate, yxwin cooking thermometer includes the high precision temperature sensor, accurate to ±1°f (between -4°f to 392°f), you can grill meat to your perfect doneness knowing and no need to worry about overcooked or burnt any more. Visibility performance, no matter the circumstance or visibility situation, the backlight provides great lighting to enable reading temperatures on display, the digital read is clear even with smoke over the bbq, water,or at night indoor, outdoor and is splash proof.   Fayogoo Instant Read Meat Thermometer,Accurate Waterproof Digital Meat Thermometer Kitchen Thermometers with Large Backlit LCD for Candy, Milk, Tea, BBQ Grill Smokers (Red) Fayogoo Instant Read Meat Thermometer,Accurate Waterproof Digital Meat Thermometer Kitchen Thermometers with Large Backlit LCD for Candy, Milk, Tea, BBQ Grill Smokers (Red) - ✓Instant digital read thermometer measures temperature within 2-4 seconds with high precision sensor,unfold/fold the probe,and the thermometer will turn on/off automatically,long-lasting battery life. ✓Long folding probe is made of food grade stainless steel and the case material is reliable and high-temp resistantthe kitchen cooking thermometer inside has a magnet, so it can easily be attached to the refrigerator, also it can be hung on the hook. ✓digital kitchen thermometers has a precision sensor inside recognizes food temp accurately,which control error range ±18℉this is a very excellent performance grill thermometers print meat temperature chart on the backsideyou can refer to it easily and handily when bbq or cooking. ✓Guaranteewe have 100% hassle free money back guarantee immediate replacement or refund without return required. ✓With this meat thermometer you can get the temperature at any time with the backlight buttonthere a large lcd backlit display shows temp readout clearly and instantly.   AMIR Digital Meat Thermometer, Waterproof Instant Read Cooking Thermometer Electronic Food Thermometer with Probe Calibration for Kitchen, BBQ, Poultry, Grill, Fast & Auto On/ Off [Battery Included] AMIR Digital Meat Thermometer, Waterproof Instant Read Cooking Thermometer Electronic Food Thermometer with Probe Calibration for Kitchen, BBQ, Poultry, Grill, Fast & Auto On/ Off [Battery Included] - Better accuracy & calibration the instant read thermometer includes the high precision temperature sensor, accurate to ±1°f (between -4°f to 392°f), ensures you can grill meat to your perfect doneness knowing it won’t be under cooked or burnt what’s more, you can calibrate it when it’s not accurate. Hold button & auto on/off before withdrawing probe, push “hold” the digital bbq thermometer will hold the temperature reading until pressed again internal collapsible folding tapered probe with auto on and off perfect for meat, liquid, food, candy tempering in kitchen and outdoor cooking. Super fast readout amir meat thermometer will get food temperature out within 3-4 seconds with an easy to read electronic lcd display, giving you accurate temperature results in seconds no need to wait for a while perfect for outdoor cooking, bbq, meat, candy, coffee, milk, bath water temperature and so on. Built-in magnet & backlight magnetic attachment & hanging hole provide much more choices for the kitchen thermometer to be carried or stored white backlight offers a soft reading background please feel free to contact us if you are not satisfied with it we provide 100% money back and one year guarantee. Heat chart & ip65 waterproof the unique wave design to better hold the cooking thermometer when you use it and you can quickly check the ideal temperature for your food by the heat chart in the box the waterproof level highs up to ip65 the back of the product can withstand splash water no more worried about cleaning problems. #TopProducts

Arplis - News source https://arplis.com/blogs/news/23-best-kitchen-thermometers-2019

Women’s Full Face Motorcycle Helmets – Top Six Best Sellers

Bell Women’s Qualifier Momentum Snow Helmet

GMax FF49 Yarrow Full Face Street Helmet

GMax FF98 Full Face Willow Helmet

HJC RPHA 70 ST Vias MC-8SF Helmet For Women

HJC Women’s CL-17 Boost Helmet

Shoei RF-1200 Harmonic Full Face Helmet For Women

The best selling women’s full face motorcycle helmets at prices that will shock you. Watch our in-depth video reviews so you can make sure you are purchasing the best women’s full face motorcycle helmet.

Bell Women’s Qualifier Momentum Snow Helmet

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If you’re looking for your next cold-weather helmet, if you’re a snowmobile rider, an Adventure Rider and you ride in those extreme temperatures the Bell Women’s Qualifier Momentum Snow Helmet is probably something you need to take a look at.

The base for this helmet is the qualifier, not much on the helmet has changed it’s all the accessories that are going to go with it. You’re still going to have that nice intermediate oval fit, polycarbonate, and ABS shell so it’s lightweight and nice and protective.

You’ve still got venting whenever it’s not so cold outside, plus you’ve got the stylish features that this one comes with. All the different designs, everything about the qualifier is still going to be there it’s just going to have more.

Electric Snow Sheild

To begin with, we’ve got a new snow shield, the snow shield on this women’s full-face motorcycle helmet is electric so you can actually plug this into the bike. It will heat that shield up and make sure it does not freeze up on you while you’re out riding.

Condensation rolling down the inside of that shield can actually cause this thing to freeze on the inside in those frigid temperatures, which can cause a 100 percent decrease invisibility. If you’ve got a frozen sheet of ice in front of you you’re not going to be able to see anything, your rides going to be over.

If you want to keep riding whenever it’s very cold you need something to combat that and that’s where that electric snow shield is going to come in.

This one actually hooks up the same way as all your other Bell shields but this one’s a bit different. There is a double layer liner on this shield which is similar to a lock. This has an extra liner that’s sealed up on the inside that makes sure the breath that you’re breathing out, which is warm, doesn’t come in contact with the cool outer portion.

That freezing air that’s on the outside can cause condensation from your breath as you breathe out, all that moisture will freeze up on the inside and again you’re going to get that decreased invisibility.

This helmet has your typical standard dual-layer lenses and your pin locks but whenever it’s freezing cold outside you need something that’s going to function better, and that’s where these come in. This visor has a heating element that runs across the top and the bottom so that warms that air that’s on the inside.

The electric shield will combat it even further and make sure you can drive even if it’s sub-zero temperatures outside. If it’s that cold you’re definitely going to need something that’s going to help keep that condensation at bay, otherwise, that things going to freeze up solid and you’re not going to be able to see anything.

Parts That Go With The Shield

To begin with, we’ve got a pigtail cable, the cable is what connects to the shield. All Bell helmets that come with these electric shields are going to hook up the same way. The pigtail pushes into a connector on the side of the shield and locks into place This pigtail cable stays with the shield whenever you get on and off the bike but it is easy to unplug.

The pigtail cable plugs into an extension cable that lets you move around on your motorcycle. The extension cable is long enough so that if you have a passenger they can plug in and defrost their helmet visor if they also have a heated face shield.

When you connect the pigtail and the extension cable together there is a small clip that keeps the cables fixed together. These clips are typically made out of hard plastic but what Bell has done on this cable clip is make them out of a rubberized material so they Bend and flex.

If you have a hard plastic the first time you try to unclip the cables and it’s freezing cold outside it’s just going to snap in half so these are a nice rubberized material. You can push them together and connect the clip and they aren’t going to go anywhere.

The extension cable then goes into the wiring harness and the wiring harness hooks directly into the bike. There are no regulators or anything like just one heat level that is the same all the time and it’s just there to keep that shield from freezing up.

At the end of the extension cable, you have both a negative and a positive clip which you can connect to your bikes battery if you have an external fuse block you can hook them up to that instead.

If you didn’t want to use the shield and you didn’t want your extension cable it easy to remove and store. As you can see, with all of the cables connected it’s not going to be difficult to reach any part of your ATV, your snowmobile your motorcycle.

Interior

On the inside of this women’s motorcycle helmet, there is a moisture-wicking liner. It’s antimicrobial just like all of the other Bell helmets out there. It is DOT and ECE certified plus that heated shield.

You’ve got all the wiring to make that heated shield work and you can get everything for around the $190 mark.

The heated shield by itself is $89.95 so you’re getting a helmet for a hundred bucks and you can get it in different colors and different patterns so whatever style you prefer it is there.

If you’re looking at a qualifier helmet and you do ride in those cold conditions then you should definitely check out the snow version so you can get all of that stuff together.

Product Overview

Contoured cheek pads

Integrated speaker pockets

DOT and ECE approved

Industry-leading Five-year warranty

Padded chin strap with D-ring closure

Removable/washable interior

Padded Wind Collar drastically reduces wind and road noise

Velocity Flow Ventilation

system with FlowAdjust

Full coverage Breath Box with adjusting the nose bridge

Click Release Snow Hinge Plates optimized for the added weight of Electric Snow Shield OR Double Lens Shield

NutraFog II

anti-fog, anti-scratch, distortion-free, dual-layer electrically heated face shield, and UV protected shield• Velocity Flow Ventilation

system with FlowAdjust

Lightweight Polycarbonate/ABS Shell Construction. ClickRelease

Snow Shield for fast, easy and tool-free shield replacement

GMax FF49 Yarrow Full Face Street Helmet

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What we see with G max is they’ve changed the letter designation in front of a lot of their numbers and the FF Nance now stands for the full face so it’s very easy to understand which helmet you’re looking at by just looking at the letters in front of the number designation. With the GMax FF49 is one of the entry-level helmets that you will see from G max.

Construction

The GMax FF49 is a thermoplastic construction and comes in two shell sizes, when we threw this on the scale it weighs 3.2 .ounces. This helmet is a DOT certified helmet. As far as the fitment is concerned it is a little more on the neutral round side of things.

Helmet Certification

If your head has more of a round shape to it you’re going to have a little bit shorter front to back, a little bit more room the side of the head and it will work very nicely for you now. If you want to consider bumping up from the FF49 GMax has something like the FF 88 which is one of the very first helmets we’ve seen from Gmax which carries an ECE safety rating.

Price Points

The FF88 will give you more venting than what we’re seeing with the FF49 but depending on where your budget falls the FF49 is that nice entry-level piece for around the $85 price point for the solid colors and around 90 dollars if you want to bump up to a graphic.

Sizing

There are two different shell sizes and the size breakdown for this is from extra small up to large you’re getting the first shell size and then when you get up into extra-large – three XL that’s where you’re going to bump up to the second shell size.

Keep that in mind if you’re somewhere between a medium or a large you will bump up with the larger shell if you are between a large and extra-large you will bump up to that larger shell.

Ventilation

Starting with the front and working our way through you are going to see three intake vents. There is one vent at on the chin, it does actuate with a simple switch to help push airflow through.

You then have dual chimney vents on the brow of the helmet, unlike some other helmet vents the vents open by pulling the slider sideways rather than backward and that will actuate the vent for you. At the back of the helmet, there is a wing with three exhaust vents just below the wing.

Face Shield

When we come to the face shield the one thing you’ll note is that they have actually done a nice job of giving you a breather vent that’s more secure than the one we’ve seen with the FF88. The breath guard on this works nicely, the airflow pushes through and it doesn’t vent up.

The face shield is the same face shield we see GMAX using on a lot of helmets. It’s really easy to remove the shield for cleaning, first fully open she face shield then push down the small nub or nipple you will find just below where the face shield clips onto the helmet.

Push the nipple down then once that’s fully depressed you can slide a small plastic arm out of the way and the visor will just pop right off. Once you’re done with that and you have cleaned it or swapped it for a different color you can pop it back into place by reversing what you did to remove it.

Interior

The FF49 comes with sweat-wicking cheek pads, they have a still has a nice contour to them but it’s not that spa soft design you would see with some of the FF88 so this is really where you bump down to the $85 price point when you’re looking at the FF49.

When you’re considering which features are important to you this is the stuff that you can see that it’s going to help you make your decision for whether or not it’s worth it for you to bump up.

Internal Speakers

With this women’s full-face helmet you will still get the speaker pockets, so, if you want to install a comm system you’re not going to have cutaways in the actual helmet or the EPs itself but you are going to have little pockets that are worked into the cheek pads.

You just slide the speaker right in the cheek pockets and it will sit in there so you can listen to music or talk on the phone if you were to install a comm system on this particular helmet.

Comfort

The two cheek pads pop out together with the interior liner. One of the things that GMAX does even on there more affordable entry-level helmets is they don’t use snaps along the forehead to mount the interior liner, they use a brow mount and the reason this is important is you don’t have those snaps pushing against your forehead when you’re out there riding.

There’s still a nice contoured feel to the overall liner but it’s just not going to have that spa soft technology worked into it.

One of the things you’ll notice is that GMAX does a nice job of giving you those full cutaway channels to help that airflow push through. Even when we’re talking about a helmet like the FF49 that doesn’t have quite the venting scheme that we’ve seen with the FF88.

You’re still getting those nice Channel cutaways into this single density EPS to help push that airflow through from the front all the way to the back, you will see those channels do a nice job of going all the way down to the back of the shell.

For those of you out there that are looking for a nice affordable entry-level helmet or maybe just a second helmet for the passenger, the FF49 is one that’s not going to break the bank.

Product Overview

DOT approved

Lightweight Poly Alloy Shell

Lightweight- only 3.2 lbs. in a medium shell

Large eye port for improved range of vision

00% UV400 protection from the anti-scratch face shield which is hard coated for a longer-lasting clear view

Flow-through intake/exhaust venting forehead vents and rear exhaust vents help pull fresh air in & remove hot air through channeled vents

Removable, adjustable, washable Coolmax® interior allows for easy cleaning and custom fitting

DuPont Coolmax® interior keeps you dry and comfortable. Coolmax® fabric wicks moisture away from your body and dries quickly

GMax FF98 Full Face Willow Helmet

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When you’re looking at the GMax FF98 helmet you will notice a few new things from G max. First and foremost this is the first helmet the G max is released it’s carrying an ECE safety rating so that’s a big step forward for the brand.

The other thing you notice is a new FF designation in front of the number and this means full face. For those of you out there looking for your first full-face helmet or you simply bought a new motorcycle and you want a full-face helmet carrying EC safety rating that’s not going to break the bank, this is one to take a look at.

Weight

When we’re talking about the helmets shell construction this is an ABS plastic shell. There are two different shell sizes are available and when we threw this on the scale it came in at three pounds six ounces in the large.

Shape

Like I said it is DOT approved but it also carries the ECE rating for the FF88 and as far as the shape of the overall helmet is concerned it’s definitely more of a neutral oval. What I mean by that is that it’s a little bit shorter front to back, you have a little bit more room on the side of the head and if you have more of a round shape to your overall noodle sitting on your shoulder this helmet is going to work nicely for you,

When you’re considering your helmet whether it’s your first time at your second it’s really about finding the right helmet to fit the shape.

I did mention that the FF88 is going to come in at the very top of G Max’s lineup, again the first helmet with that ECE safety rating. If you’re taking a look at what else is out there you’re probably considering how much like the LS2 stream or maybe the bell qualifier it is.

Coming in at around that $150 price point the Gmax FF98 is really going to fall in that same niche, something like the bell qualifier. You’re looking at the advantages there being four different shell sizes so it’s really a matter of choosing which helmet is best for you.

The FF88 comes in ABS plastic shell, it does have two shell sizes and we’re breaking this down via size, extra small up to large will have the first shell size and then when you get from extra large up to three XL you’ll bump into this second shell size.

Ventilation

With the GMAX FF98, you get six intake vents and six exhaust vents. They count the chin vent as two, the brow vent as two and the two chimney vents as two separate vents, so depending on whether you’re looking at one two three four or you count them as six there still give me a nice ventilation scheme.

The brow vent has a sliding vent actuated and when you’re looking at the chin vent it slides down to open. The chimney vent has sliders on either side giving you a good active ventilation system.

At the back of the helmet there is one big slider vent, just slide it down to open giving you free flow of air from the six front vents through the helmet to the one large exhaust vent at the back.

On the inside of the helmet, there is nice cutaways throughout the EPS which really works to push airflow through and that’s one of the advantages that we’re seeing with the FF98.

Face Shield

When you’re looking at the face shield on this helmet you will notice that it is a little bit of a two-handed job to get the face shield on and off. To remove the shield for cleaning it’s quite easy, on the side of the helmet just in front of where the shield attaches to the helmet you will see a plastic pin. Use one hand to push the pin in then use the other hand to push down the small bar next to the pin.

Once the bar has been pushed down you can pull the shield away from the helmet. T put it back on just push the face shield back into place and push the slider back up. It’s not overly complicated but it’s easier to do it on a flat surface rather than with the helmet sitting on your bike seat.

Another thing of note here is at the breath guard does have a tendency to fall out so if I were going to get this helmet I would consider taking it out and going without the breath guard otherwise you are going to find yourself constantly pushing it back into place.

If I was looking at the FF88 for myself I would probably just pull the breath guard out of this particular helmet and do without it.

Graphics

There are a variety of different graphics and there are also some matte color options for you in a solid finish. If you’re looking for solid or graphics, again around that $117 mark for the solid and then you’re bumping up to about $125 if you’re looking at the graphic option.

Interior

GMAX is calling the interior for this helmet the spa soft liner and it’s a combination of Coolmax as well as bamboo and charcoal. When removing the internal pads from the helmet you will notice there are some internal pockets for those of you that want to put a comm system into the helmet.

Inside the cheek pads, you will see they’ve got the indentations for the speaker output together with a nice cutaway if you do want to put a speaker in there. It is compatible with most of the universal Bluetooth options.

The spa soft pads contain the charcoal as well as the bamboo giving you the moisture-wicking antimicrobial factor. When you started ripping the cheek pad apart you will notice is has a really nice contour and it fits really nicely against your face.

When you look at the venting scheme inside the helmet you’ll notice the liner itself has a brow mount so you’re not going to have any uncomfortable snaps in your forehead. Some of the manufacturers you see with some of the more entry-level priced helmets they actually include snaps that can cause pressure points, the fact that GMAX went with a brow mount on this makes it really nice and comfortable.

This helmet has the same spa soft liner throughout the entire helmet, a really nice 3D wicking mesh comfortably that helps to wick sweat away.

When you look at the EPS you will see it is a single density EPS and it will be the maximum ventilation, that really pushes the FF98 ahead for this particular price point.

You will see starting at the top all the different cutouts for the vents and those channels are going to simply carry all the way through to the back giving you a tremendous amount of airflow.

For riders riding in a warmer season or warmer climate and you’re looking for an entry-level helmet the G max is definitely one to consider.

Features:

Speaker pockets

ECE and DOT approved

Lightweight Polly Alloy shell

Internal sun visor with anti-fog coating

Scratch-resistant, locking face shield

Integrated multi-function red LED rear light included

Removable, adjustable and washable SpaSoft DuPont Coolmax liner wicks moisture and is easy to clean

HJC RPHA 70 ST Vias MC-8SF Helmet For Women

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This is the new HJC RPHA 70 ST Helmet, it’s kind of badass, its kind of aggressive, it is an evolution of the Arfa ST which we loved in 2014 when it came out. But, at this stage of the game, our FST is your grandmother’s pearls and at this stage of the game, the Arfa 70 ST is kind of the venom to the sport-touring mix.

If we look at it just as a base level helmet it is a much narrower shell, 6 intakes, two exhaust but if we look at it they’ve just refined and made it much more aggressive.

I will tell you it’s still a premium helmet, it’s the advanced integrated matrix composite they have from HJC so it’s the top of the line. It’s ultimately that Arfa 11 pro with the same composite they’re using on the racetrack

What they’ve done with this helmet though is they’ve increased the ventilation, made it more aggressive, making it more narrow and in our estimation, it’s competing for much more heads up at this stage of the game with something like that GT Air from Shoei.

You still have your drop-down Sun Visor but the beauty of it is it is now DOT and ECE rated whereas this helmet used to be DOT rated only.

What I like about that is that you’re taking a helmet, you’re increasing the safety rating, it’s still organized for upright or three-quarter riding, it looks that much more aggressive but it only gained a few ounces.

Weight

Putting it on the scale we are seeing 3hree pounds four ounces to three pounds six. For a sport touring helmet with a drop-down Sun Visor, DOT ECE rated that now has emergency cheek pads and really has added all the things including the extra vents we’re looking at this helmet and saying it’s a huge win they’ve only added two ounces.

I will tell you that it’s going up 40 bucks but it doesn’t really scare us. It comes in under $400 and ultimately there’s not a lot that we can pick apart because HJC, as they’ve done for the last couple of years, has kind of blown us away as soon as they launched new helmets. They’ve continued to innovate and they’ve continued to really bring things to the next level.

I know that sounds vague but when I walked through the full helmet you’re going to see that I mean even single things like the shape, the fact that the vents in the back now have three positions on the top.

Vent open halfway and closed and even the back actuated vents or non actuate events are fully passed through and positive so they’re actually extracting air whereas your Arfa ST had them for looks they looked great but they were not fully featured.

Ultimately not a full overhaul, really an iteration but enough has changed that we look at this through the lens of a new helmet that really staying within the standards of what we expect these days from HJC but ultimately still not over $400

Now carrying an ECE rating really and optimized for multi-season sport or in commuting sport riding without breaking the bank.

Fitment

The fit has not changed, it’s still intermediate oval head shaped which should work for most riders. A little bit longer front to back, it’s not overly round and not overly narrow.

Interior

They’ve updated the interior guts, it is antimicrobial with the multi cool system which has a cooling property to it but again premium guts. It now comes with an emergency cheek pad removal system, it’s not overly racing fit, it’s more of a touring contour but ultimately the fit won’t surprise you.

If we think about some of the other features it comes with a fiberglass composite now with a lower profile and more aerodynamic.

Ventilation

The airflow has been improved and they’ve changed and added vents. The chin vent is actuated on the inside. This vent didn’t do a whole lot for us but ultimately this is really if meant for riding in the upright riding position and depending on if you have a windshield and how it is configured you may or may not get that airflow.

The top vent and scoop which has become more dramatic again have three-position, open, closed and a halfway point and that was one of the big themes we saw the Arfa 11 pro come out one of the best venting helmets we’ve ever seen.

Ultimately much more dramatic looking, much narrower and if you look at the back of the helmets you will see there are big flares leading down to the open and closable vents which are full extractors.

There has been a big overhaul in the aerodynamic profile and a big overhaul in the ventilation scheme which in my opinion is much better on this helmet than the previous version.

On the venting side of things we went out on our bike and we really pushed this helmet and my thoughts were okay when you’re adding that much airflow…

You’re going to feel it that much more which we did and

Is it going to become annoyingly noisy at that point with so much air moving through it?

I found that that the ear pockets were compartmentalized enough and separated from the vents to where you can open everything and it wasn’t annoyingly loud which was a really nice feature.

Face Shield

This helmet comes pin lock ready and is still very simple to remove. You just open the shield fully, pull the tabs on the side of the helmet and it comes right off.

Profile

When we talk about the profile of this women’s full-face helmet we’ve talked about venting, we’ve talked about the weight again the premium composites it’s using. The last thing I’m going to delve into is on the previous version you had a lever actuation on the side now you have a jawline actuation which is done with a cable that is smoother and more positive.

Interior

The neck pads are now made from a rubberized material that allows it to not slide off your seat if you put it on your bike. It has an emergency cheek pad removal system, if you’re knocked out cold the EMT can save your neck if you happen to have a cervical vertebrae issue.

It’s really easy to pull the cheek pads of if they don’t know about any injury you may have to your neck, they just pull them off and slide the helmet off the crown of your head versus wrangling it when you’re out cold.

On the underside of the chin there is a removable chin spoiler and just behind that is the actuation for the front vent.

The removable head insert is a 3D construction with multiple layers, multiple densities of foam again flowing a ton of air through on the top and the sides of the helmet but again, staying out of the way making itself really non-existent from a pressure point standpoint which is huge.

The ear pockets can be removed, they cover up holes that cover the speaker pocket so you can add a third party communication unit to this helmet. When you not using the speaker pocket you can cover it over which makes the helmet a lot quieter.

The top of the helmet on the inside has lots of channel, lots of vents which makes a great ventilation scheme and it’s not overly loud.

HJC has done a great job of improving things by adding better looking and more aggressive larger scoops and adding additional exits. There are two that are positive – they’re passive but they both flow air with six total inputs in the helmet.

From the previous version it went up in price by 40 bucks, it went up two ounces. I kind of don’t care about either those things because the helmet relatively speaking, for where it plays in the market is still underpriced they could charge more for it.

I don’t care about two ounces when you go to 3.4 pounds to 3.6, I don’t care that’s still an extremely light helmet under the 3.8 pounds mark and ultimately if we think about the rest of the helmet they’ve just improve many many things over the previous version.

The only gripe I might have about this helmet is sometimes you’re not really getting the benefit out of the chin vent depending on how you ride but it looks really badass.

Features:

ECE & D.O.T. Approved

Adjustable Rear Vent Switch: Rear vent switch for easy control of airflow

HJ-26ST Anti-Scratch Clear Pin-prepared Shield. Eyeglasses and sunglasses friendly EPS

Dual Shield lock System: Innovative Center one-touch shield lock with spring controlled lever

5 Year Limited Warranty: Free of defects in materials/workmanship for the original purchaser.

Up to 5mm initial shield position by releasing shield lock

Premium Integrated Matrix Plus (PIM Plus): Reinforcement materials, including Carbon and Carbon-Glass Hybrid fabric, provide enhanced Shock-Resistant performance. more comfort, & lightness of helmet

Dual Purpose Top Vent: Top intake/exhaust vents operate simultaneously for maximum air circulation

Multi-Cool

Interior: Anti-bacterial, Polygiene® Infused silver chloride Technology. Anti-bacterial fabric with moisture-wicking and quick-drying capabilities. Recessed speaker pockets with removable ear pocket pads. Removable and washable crown/cheek pads. Cheek pads are interchangeable in all sizes

RapidFire

II Shield Replacement System: Simple and secure shield ratchet system provides ultra-quick, tool-less removal and installation for efficient operations

HJ-L1 Integrated SunShield – New! bottom position operating System: Anti-fog smoke tinted 2-Stage SunShield system with positive (“UP” position) lock.

Emergency helmet release: Cheek pads are designed for safe/quick helmet removal in emergency and rescue situations

Weight: SM 3.26 lbs. (1,480 +/- 45g)

MD to LG 3.37 lbs. (1,530 +/- 45g)

XL to 2XL 3.51 lbs. (1,595 +/- 45g)

HJC Women’s CL-17 Boost Helmet

iFrame is not supported!

The HJC CL-17 streamlined women’s graphic helmet is an entry-level helmet from HJC that is a Snell safety rated lid. If you look at the streamline graphic it comes on top of a nice matte finish helmet with a high visibility pink stripe over top.

The one thing I will note is I really like this graphic I wish that HJC would have included this in men’s sizes as well because when they’re talking about the fact that this is a women’s graphic.

Sizes Available

Really what they’re doing is the helmet is the same size up to extra-large, they’re just going to limit the sizes past that so between extra small up to XL this is going to work in the exact same men’s sizes. They just added a color that is going to work more towards the appeal of the women’s market.

Weight

The CL-17 is a polycarbonate shell and there are two shell sizes available. This women’s helmet weighs in at 3 pounds 9 ounces when we throw it on our scale.

The HJC CL-17 streamlined women’s graphic helmet is Snell and DOT safety rated as far as this fitment is concerned. It is more of an intermediate level fit, a little bit longer front to back and narrowed down the sides of the helmet. It will work really nicely for the majority of you riders out there in the American market.

Graphics

Again this is a women’s only helmet and that’s going to limit your sizes, but really it is very similar to the other streamlined graphics we’re seeing in the CL-17 range. You can have a matte black helmet and one of the things that I will compliment HJC on every time is they’ve gotten really good at nice matte finishes.

Their matte finishes are really second to none and with this helmet what they’ve done is they’ve incorporated a traditional 60-70s muscle car rally stripe going down the top and it is finished in that really nice matte high-vis pink.

Those rally stripes work their way around the front and as they work to the back they almost begin to taper off with blocks of matte finishing working between them

The pink stripe runs over the top of the helmet towards the back, stopping at the vents the continuing down the back to finish at the neckline.

The other thing that I like the HJC did with this is they left it very clean, there’s not an abundance of HJC logos except the one you have on the front. Some of the other HJC graphics we’ve seen they include logos on the front, the sides, the back so they’ve kept it with a really nice clean muted tone.

Features:

Integrated air deflector is included

Pinlock-ready (Pinlock lens insert sold separately)

Crown and cheek pads are fully removable and washable

All CL-17 cheek pad sizes are interchangeable for a custom fit

SuperCool Interior made from anti-bacterial, moisture-wicking fabric

Meets or exceeds DOT and Snell 2015 standards (sizes 3XL-5XL are DOT only)

ACS (Advanced Channeling Ventilation System) provides full front to back airflow which flushes heat and humidity up and out

RapidFire Shield Replacement System provides ultra-quick and tool-less removal and installation of the face shield 2-Stage face shield closure system with one-touch center open/close shield locking system for an extremely tight and secure seal

Advanced polycarbonate composite shell is lightweight and features superior fit and comfort by using CAD technology Anti-Scratch Pinlock-ready Face shield (HJ-09) features a 3D design with 95% UV protection Side face shield lock mechanism for an ultra-secure seal

Shoei RF-1200 Harmonic Full Face Helmet For Women

iFrame is not supported!

If you’re not familiar with the Shoei RF-1200 harmonic full-face helmet for women it is constructed using an AIM plus try composite shell. it has an intermediate oval head shape and comes in sizes ranging from extra small the two XL with four shell sizes in for EPS liners.

Weight

This helmet weighs in at three pounds eight ounces in a medium-size and comes with a DOT Snell safety rating.

Graphics

What you will see with the harmonic graphic is just a ray of pretty flowers. You have got pink or blue to choose from with a little bit of metallic sheen worked into the paint.

Like I said two colors with all the flowers you could possibly want, you’re going to get blue or pink one clear facial is included in the box and if you want to check out the most up to date prices click the buttons below to learn more about the Shoei RF-1200 harmonic full-face helmet for women.

Features:

Four shell sizes

Dual-density EPS liner

Superior ventilation

3D Max-Dry System II Liner

Neatly secures chin strap

Includes Pinlock pins and lens insert

Includes breath guard and chin curtain

Snell M2015 and DOT Certified

E.Q.R.S. (Emergency Quick-Release System) CWR-1 Shield System

The post Women’s Full Face Motorcycle Helmets – Top Six Best Sellers appeared first on Motorcycle Gear 101.

part 26

Enough flirting, more kissing. >:u Twits.

At last, Novastrike felt confident in something she was doing. She’d spent so much of her own time back on Cybertron working with her weapons, working with others weapons, that it seemed easy in comparison to learn this over medical practices. It was working on a bigger scale, inside portions of the weapon though than outside it. Well, usually on the inside. Sometimes Blackout would have her join him for a ‘space walk’ outside of the Rising Star to check on sections.

Blackout’s presence felt surprisingly comforting. He talked even less than he did when he was in the med-bay which was surprising. All he ever remarked on in a gruff voice was that she needed to fix that there, no no grab that there, this tool was best not that one. Nova tried chucking up the behavior to him concentrating on what he was doing, but she secretly wondered if it all boiled down to the idea he wanted her at ‘arms length’, so to speak.

“You’re so quiet,” Novastrike would tease. “Do you know how to make friends?”

“I have plenty of friends,” Blackout would retort.

“Name one, besides Scorponok.”

“Confidential.”

Maybe she should give him the benefit of the doubt and believe him, but it was incredibly hard to believe a gargantuan pitch-black shadow whose only expression seemed to be intimidating with the once-in-a-blue-moon dash of a smile.

She just didn’t realize how rare that smile really was. If Novastrike had the tiniest suspicion; the littlest of knowledge to know that the mech had smiled more in his brief encounters with her than the entire history of his existence, she might be thinking a little differently.

Novastrike wouldn’t give up though. She was persistent in at least trying to make a mutual friendship of some sort with Satan, no matter how little he wanted to speak with her or how much he seemed to ignore her. Everyone deserved kindness, she reasoned, and Blackout was no exception.

~

A loud exhale escaped Blackout.

“What?” Nova asked quietly, glancing over her shoulder. “What am I doing wrong?”

“Connect the H-396 plug into the ST-396, not the SE-396.”

“Oh, right. Sorry about that.”

“And check the circuits to your right, I’m going to check for plasma radiation leaks by running a surge of power through the systems. While I’m doing that, you make sure nothing sparks in the data network system box.”

Plugging the unit into the correct spot, Novastrike wriggled her frame out from the open panels of the ship’s cannon. She held onto the edge and leaned out to look at the console that Blackout had indicated.

“I can do that,” she said in a chipper voice.

Giving a short nod, Blackout stepped across the other end of the room. He placed a servo against the system and a small crackle of energy seemed to surge through the cannon. Lights flickered and a soft buzzing escaped the cannon, followed by almost a coughing sound as debris and dust escaped some of the ventilation shafts to the gun spewed out.

Nova’s optics darted across circuit board as the system activated. She pinpointed the locations where spitting electricity arced out.

Placing her servos against the edge of the panel, Novastrike leapt out and hit the ground.

“Anything?” Blackout asked, turning back to her.

“Yeah, looks like on grid V, lines H-740B, Y-106R, and I-236O are all damaged, as well as grid W line G-833B, grid D line N-476, and grid F lines M-590T and E-794.”

Blackout’s optics grew brighter with surprise. He slowly walked over, glancing over the circuits before looking at Novastrike with arched optic ridges, “That’s.. very specific, Novastrike.”

“Do you need me to project what I saw?” Nova asked calmly.

“That won’t be necessary,” Blackout commented, turning to look at the circuits. “I trust your judgement.”

A fluttering feeling stirred in Novastrike’s spark and she twitched her tail swiftly back and forth with frustration at herself. It was a simple compliment; did she have to act so childish?

Having placed his attention on the cords, Blackout didn’t seem to notice her reaction. Feeling a little grateful of the good fortune, Nova sauntered over to where Scorponok was in the room. The scorpion minicon was busy fussing with something it looked like.

Then she realized what was going on and laughed.

“Oh- Oh- Oh my-! Scorponok you poor thing,” Novastrike cracked up, gasping for air. “Let me help you! By Primus name, you’re tangling yourself up more. Here.”

Bending down, Nova started gently weaving the cables and lines through loops and untangling them from the bug’s pincers. He stood completely still with an irritated glare upon his narrowed optics, watching as each new section was pulled free of his armor.

“Not my fault,” he defended himself. “Just grabbed one.”

“Well it looks like they attracted to you like a magnet, didn’t they?” Novastrike teased.

Scorponok tilted his helm a small fraction. Two of his optics moved just enough to see where Blackout was in the room as he spoke loudly, “Yes. Like magnet. Attracting things.”

Novastrike’s audios twitched slightly, leaning back as Blackout shifted his pedes to glance towards them.

“Need any help, Novastrike?” the large mech asked in bored, almost monotone voice.

“No, that’s alright,” Novastrike quickly responded. Her spark gave a hopeful lurch. What if he used his holoform to help though..?

No, that was the last thing she wanted.

“Help,” Scorponk whined. “Taking forever.”

Blackout gave a brief snicker from his position in the room. Nova felt her insides practically melt on the spot. Well- of course because he sounded so horrible- yeah that’s it. He sounded so bad when he laughed she wanted to die.

Exactly no part of Novastrike’s processor bought that.

“I’ve got this, you don’t need-”

The air beside Novastrike smelled slightly different then. A strong, predatory, dangerous scent seemed to blanket the spot.

“-anymore-”

The little femme turned her optics just slightly to see Blackout’s holoform standing at her side.

“-help.”

Primus please hail her home now, she felt very small very quickly.

Quirking his lip up just slightly on the left side into a faint smile, Blackout reached out to take the line out of Novastrike’s servos. She practically jumped at the brush of his digits against her armor. For a nanoklik a ghostly memory surfaced in her thoughts, and she thought she could taste the mech’s mouth against hers.

Lord and Savior Primus, please smite her stupid aft now.

“You were knotting it here doing that,” Blackout snickered quietly. “Unless you would rather tie up the bug further. I would not object to the idea.”

Scorponok gave an unsatisfied hiss.

Quiet, nervous giggling escaped Nova. She couldn’t tear her optics away from Blackout’s. The dark scarlet color was one many saw terror in; a monster, fear, death. But she could see the humor tinging along the edges; the slight haunted expression of someone who had seen and done a great many deeds that followed him like a ball and chain.

“Okay, so I may have needed to cut a few in the end to free him, I could have still done it myself.”

“Wasting cables? Shame on you,” Blackout mocked gently.

“Like you aren’t considering it.”

“I didn’t say I wasn’t.”

“This enlightening. Maybe help first?” Scorponok cut in, growing vexed once again.

Blackout rolled his optics, reaching out to grab a different wire. “Hold on a nanoklik,” he growled.

“Just stay still,” Novastrike insisted, her optics trailing the direction of another wire and pulling it free of some of its tangles. “We’ll get you out of there.”

~

Raising an energon cube, Blackout offered it out towards Novastrike with a light smile. “A toast for a day’s hard work?”

Novastrike giggled softly and held out her cube to lightly tap it against Blackout’s. “And to Guard’s generosity in letting us leave the energon storage area to drink. I’ve not seen him allow anyone do that, unless sending energon to the med-bay.”

“I’m sure he realizes that nobody is going to try robbing me of energon, or anyone that is around me,” the large mech stated proudly as he gazed at the little femme.

Nova’s ears warmed with a blush and she glanced shyly away, taking a slow sip of her energon.

There was a slight slosh of Blackout’s energon as he gave his cube a light swirl. The sensation of the big mech watching her as she drank caused a nervous energy in Novastrike, making her fidget a little.

Clearing her vocalizer, the femme looked up to Blackout once more. “Do I have something on me?”

“Pardon?”

“You’re staring.”

“No, I was just thinking. Apologies. I do not enjoy being wrong but you were right about one thing: having another set of little servos around does make the work go by faster. Although, the company could be better.”

Nova blinked her optics rapidly for a moment. It took her a few moments to realize he was messing with her, and she huffed at him.

“Oh yeah? You think sitting around with you all day is a treat, hmm?” She jabbed back, sticking out her glossia.

“You’re the one who chose to help me, and stay.”

“You could always tell me to leave.”

“That would not be beneficial to my work.”

Forming a fist, Novastrike raise her arm in the air and shook it at Blackout threateningly. “You wanna brawl you big aft?”

Before Blackout could even respond, Scorponok was tapping over swiftly on his prongs. Nearly dropping her energon, Novastrike jumped back from the bug as he came upon her suddenly, raising one of his drills at her. For a moment, she thought he actually took her remark for a real threat to his master.

Then Scorponok went to lightly jab at her side with his prongs.

“Hey!” Nova squealed, squirming. She threw a dark gaze at the scorpion but he seemed unphased as he continued poking and prodding her.

The little femme set her energon down as she hopped away from him. “Alright, you asked for it!”

Armor plating morphed and folded in various directions. Just as the bug moved to approach Novastrike she finished transforming and bounced backward and away from him. Her tail lashing wildly, she pounced forward then and at him as he went to shuffle back, clicking loudly.

Giving a soft hiss, the cyber-cat raised her paw and batted at Scorponok’s drill. The bug chirped in response, mimicking Novastrike’s movements exactly so his drill raised and lowered in mocked mirror of her own motions.

“Scorponok, at least allow the femme to finish her energon,” Blackout rumbled.

“No, that’s okay,” Nova huffed. “I can kick his aft in a nanoklik, watch!”

Rearing up on her hindquarters, Novastrike went to swipe at the bug gently, claws retracted of course. Scorponok shifted his weight backwards and let Nova hit the floor in front of her, chattering.

“Don’t expose your under-armor like that,” Blackout said gently, taking a drink of his energon. “You give him room to directly attack your chassis and snuff out your spark.”

Slightly startled by the giant’s remark, Nova glanced up to Blackout.

“If you wanted to cause someone with Scorponok’s frame damage, you would aim for the same thing. However with the shape of his legs, and the fact he borrows, you wouldn’t get the chance,” Blackout went on. “Instead, you should likely aim to blind him and deactivate his drills by any means necessary. That would disable a weapon and an invasive action; making it impossible for him to escape with ease or ambush you.”

“Your next problem would probably be his rockets. Since you do not have an EMP device, your best hope would be to dodge and make distance between yourself and him swiftly so you have the room to outmaneuver any of his rockets until he runs out. It shouldn’t take him long; he doesn’t have many on his person but they still do pack a punch.”

“After that, going for his tail would be your next best bet, if you could not yet take him down by other means. As long as you get the barb, you would be good. Firing upon the section of armor right where the barb meets his tail is a weak point, so you would aim there for best conservation of your ammunition. Once he is broken, without much to fight with, you go in for the kill. Hypothetically.”

Novastrike opened and closed her mouth slowly. Her processor worked out what the mech said while he took a drink. After he’d finished, she finally asked: “Are you advising me on how to fight Scorponok?”

“I’m advising you a specific manner of fighting,” Blackout disagreed. “For instance, if you were fighting me, I could advise you on best tactics to go on a large-framed, multi-weapon carrying individual.”

“Won’t do that,” Scorponok grumbled. “Too proud. Too scared. Only me. Want me beat up.”

“I never said I wanted you beaten up,” the large mech challenged. “It was only advise, Scorponok.”

“How would someone get the slip on you?” Novastrike cut in transforming back into her bipedal to grab her energon cube and drink some more.

Glancing around the room, Blackout seemed to be inspecting for sort of device that may be listening in on them. It was fairly clear to Nova that he didn’t openly discuss this sort of thing. One could easily think of a hundred reasons as to why.

“Well,” Blackout gruffly began, “First, if you were up against someone like me, I would advise you to flee without pause. At any given point, at any opportunity, you should run. Run as fast and as far as your legs could carry you. Because you wouldn’t want to fight someone like me; someone who has nothing to lose and everything to gain.”

He gave a lengthy pause, his optics searing into Novastrike. She was stuck between a desire to curl into herself and a weird sensation like she was drawn in by the sheer danger. There was a thrill to it. She shouldn’t like it; she knew she should be afraid of those murderous optics and the scent of blood-energon and the threat in every movement of his frame that suggested he could crush her and everyone in his path without a second thought in the blink of an optic.

But she stared with a keen sense of interest.

Blackout’s optics grew darker. He seemed to realize she was waiting with anticipation; and although he hid it well, he was very intrigued by her curiosity.

“If you can not get away,” he went on. “If you must fight; there are a few obvious things to keep in mind. The furthest or the closest areas are your best bet. If you are far away, it renders your attacker more difficulty in getting a good shot. Target systems may help, but if you are in constant motion, it adds a challenge. Being very close; right beneath their pedes, it becomes difficult to fire. Shooting too close to themselves risks damage. However you need to be careful in not being trampled by pedes.”

“Taking out weapons would simply take too long. If you can get out at any point in the confrontation, you should. Going for optics or legs would be a good tactic. Blinding the individual or giving them a handicap so they can not move fast enough to keep up with you so you can close in on them or escape would work well.”

“Upon my frame, going for the rotors on my back would also work if you aimed for the mount. Aiming for the blades just cripples me and would enrage me further. That is not to say that that damaging my rotor mount wouldn’t bring me into a frenzy, but the pain overrules your logical senses to attack. A similar location such as the place where the helm meets the spinal strut could paralyze on another mech may not be a bad idea...”

Tapping his digit along the side of his energon cube, Blackout gazed down at Novastrike and her awed expression.

“Wow,” she breathed quietly. “I mean- thank you I appreciate you telling me this. I’m...”

“Confused?” Blackout offered.

“Shocked,” Novastrike corrected. “And humbled. You didn’t have to. I would understand if you thought it was too risky.”

Grunting in response, Blackout took another drink of his energon. “I don’t think you’re able to stab me in the backstrut anytime soon.”

“I don’t want to hurt you at all,” Nova murmured, seeming slightly hurt.

Blackout stiffened. He shifted his gaze briefly to Scorponok and his sly expression and then turned to look upon Novastrike again.

He lifted his energon cube. “That makes two of us.”

Trying to hide her blush by pinning her audio receptors to her helm, Novastrike gave a cheesy grin and commented, “Oh, you don’t want to hurt yourself either?”

“Mmmm, I meant the remark towards you, but I suppose that statement is true as well.”

“How very noble of you.”

“I am nothing if not a mech of righteous ethical magnificence.”

Laughter bubbled up from Novastrike. She placed the cube of energon in front of her face, snickering loudly to herself.

Behind her, the bug’s scheming expression grew more devilish as he stared at Blackout.

Satan took another drink of energon and pretended not to notice Scorponok, or the slight irregular jump his spark made in his chassis.

Cooler Master-The Modular or Not to Modular?

It should be said that with most certainty, that all of us at some point looked at the cheapest PSU when building our systems. Dropping months of savings on every component but when it came to the PSU, it was banished to the "bargain bin" option in your parts list. Even I, somehow that can be a bit of a PSU snob is guilty of this mentality during my early years. While we don't currently have the tools to measure the ripple and stability of PSUs, we can most certainly talk about the aspects of trends and design features of PSUs. Cooler Master was kind enough to send us the 750-watt models in both modular and non-modular flavors of their MWE series PSUs. So what does "Modular" mean? Modular PSUs are nothing new, they have been around for 10+ years, and simply means the cables can be removed and added as the user pleases. There is a Hybrid modular as well, where accessory cables can be removed but the main cables are hardwired to the board of the PSU. In the early days, the enthusiast would sneer at the idea of using a modular PSU due to the potential of power loss between the board of the PSU and break where the cables could be removed. While this was true to an extent, this was only an issue for extreme users that would push the limits of their PSU wattage capacity. This mentality trickled down to the general PC building population which made the adoption of fully modular PSUs slow. What really drove the adoption of the fully modular market was the growth of the SFF community, long were the days of taking your mega tower to your local LAN party, instead, people wanted smaller PCs (Fragbox) as made popular by Falcon Northwest. With the small footprint of these chassis, having a bundle of wires tucked just was not an option and users would opt for a hybrid or fully modular PSU.

PHOTO COURTESY OF FALCON-NW.COM Starting with the non- modular model, the MWE 750 Gold comes in at $89.99 just $10 dollars cheaper than its fully modular counterpart. Review Sample Provided by: Cooler Master Product Name/Link to Website: http://www.coolermaster.com/powersupply/power-supplies-by-wattage/mwe-gold-750/

The PSU is shipped in a matte black cardboard box with a protective plastic film which was removed to avoid glare in the photos. The back of the packaging has a short description of the PSU model, as well as two graphs showing the PSU's fan curve and efficiency overload.

On the left panel is a very detailed list of the PSU specifications listed below TOTAL POWER 750W MODEL MPY-7501-ACAAG TYPE INTEL ATX 12V V2.31 PFC ACTIVE PFC(>0.9) INPUT VOLTAGE 100-240Vac INPUT RANGE FULL RANGE INPUT FREQUENCY 50-60Hz DIMENSIONS 140X150X86MM /5.5X5.9X3.4INCH FAN TYPE 120MM SILENCIO FP FAN POWER GOOD SIGNAL 100-500MS HOLD UP TIME >14MS AT 100% LOAD EFFICIENCY 90% @ TYPICAL LOAD OPERATING TEMPERATURE 0-45C PROTECTIONS UVP/OVP/OPP/OTP/SCP REGULATORY CCC,CE,CTUVUS,FCC,BSMI,TUV,RCM,EAC CONNECTORS M/B 24 PIN X1 CPU 4+4 PIN X1 PCI-E 6+2 PIN X4 SATA X8 PERIPHERAL 4PIN X6 FLOPPY 4 PIN X1

The left side has a description as well as a photo of the cables included with this PSU and also functions as the locking tab that keeps the packaging close.

Inside Cooler Master has a single piece of foam to cushion the top of the PSU during shipping. Removing this foam will show the user guide, power cable, mounting screws and the bundle of cables attached to the PSU.

The PSU itself ships much like every other PSU on the market, protected by dense foam and inside a plastic bag to keep dust and foreign particles out of the unit.

The cables are bundled with a single twist tie and use a black 18 AWG wire with a very easy to form jacket, which makes straightening out the cables much easier. All but the 24 pin feature a fused black system for the cables, where the 24 pin is the only cable that has a mesh over the black cables to keep the sets neater and out of the way.

The left side of the PSU list all the compliance certificates, the 80 PLUS efficiency rating (GOLD) as well as the model number with a list of the voltages. One thing I am very happy to see with this PSU is the restraint on primary colors, other than the gold for the rating. For some this is not a big deal as PSU shrouds are normal now with most cases however for those select cases with the PSU exposed, this helps keep a neutral aesthetic.

  The area of the PSU that has the inlet for the cables is solid, normally this area will have some sort of perforation but as this is a non-modular PSU it is kept solid to prevent any heat from seeping back into the chassis. The 120mm fan at the top of the unit is offset and pulls air in through the mesh outside panel and out the bottom of the chassis. Note, the general rule of PSUs is to have the fan face down to push air outside the case. Now for the fully modular counterpart, the Cooler Master MWE 750 gold, as the name suggests, this PSU's wires are completely removable. Why is this a Pro or a Con? Pro's include the ability to pick and choose which cables you need for your build and overall a tidier build. Con's well if you throw away the box, just make sure to put the spare cables in a labeled ziplock bag. This is important as many cables fit other PSUs but do not share the same pin-out. This can result in damage to system components where higher voltages go to lower voltage specification components such as a 12V+ going to a 3V+, reversed the parts will be underpowered and you may not see any damage if you are lucky. Another pro to the modular series is the ability to make custom cables. This is still possible with non-modular PSUs, however, will require extensive modding to the chassis of the PSU. Review Sample Provided by: Cooler Master Product Name/Link to Website:http://www.coolermaster.com/powersupply/power-supplies-by-wattage/mwe-gold-750-full-modular/  

Cooler Master is pretty consistent with their packaging, matching the overall aesthetic to the non-modular model's packaging. The same matte black, cardboard construction and both PSU's have the same warranty and Gold efficiency rating.

TOTAL POWER 750W MODEL MPY-7501-AFAAG TYPE INTEL ATX 12V V2.31 PFC ACTIVE PFC(>0.9) INPUT VOLTAGE 100-240V INPUT RANGE FULL RANGE INPUT FREQUENCY 50-60HZ DIMENSIONS 160X150X86MM/ 6.3X5.9X3.4INCH FAN TYPE 120MM SILENCIO FP FAN POWER GOOD SIGNAL 100-500MS HOLD UP TIME >14MS AT 100% LOAD EFFICIENCY 90% @ TYPICAL LOAD MTBF >100,000 HOURS OPERATING TEMPERATURE 0-45C PROTECTIONS UVP/OVP/OPP/OTP/SCP REGULATORY CCC,CE,CTUVUS,FCC,BSMI,TUV,RCM,EAC,KC CONNECTORS M/B 24 PIN X1 CPU 4+4 PIN X1 PCI0E 6+2 PIN X4 SATA X8 PERIPHERAL 4PIN X6 FLOPPY 4 PIN X1

One thing to note about the side of the packaging that has the connectors and cables included in the box is clearly marked to the region it should be sold in. This is important since pin-outs can change going region to region since not all power outlets are the same and are different voltages around the world.

The foam and packaging are exactly the same as the non-modular PSU, the only difference is the foam that encases the PSU does not have a notch cut in it where the cable would come from the PSU body. Beneath the large flat foam, is the user guide, mounting screws and the bundle of cables.

As is customary with PSU's due to their weight they are shipped in dense foam with a plastic or felt bag covering the actual unit to prevent foreign debris from entering the PSU's frame.

The cables come bundled in two pairs. One pair is for the ATX 24 pin and the other bundle is the remaining cables, both are bound with only a single twist tie. Similar to the non-modular variant, the 24 pin is the only cable that comes sleeved in a black mesh.

Overall the PSU has a very clean and minimal look. Nothing glaring other than the gold 80 plus rating logo, but with some black vinyl, easily covered up. This is something I personally look at for PSUs when it comes to builds that cannot be modded per the client's restrictions. The subtle colors allow PSUs like this to fit in any build, without clashing on the theme.

The left side of the unit has a full list of the voltages, certifications and the efficiency rating. On the right, is a very tasteful Cooler Master logo, with the model number and some faded to solid stripes.

On the face of the PSU is the clearly listed ports for the modular cables. One thing to keep in mind is that the CPU and PCIe cables share the same rail. This can cause some issues with boards that require multiple CPU and PCIe cable connections. This is not a deal breaker but is something to be mindful of. The rear does have a perforated panel to allow cool air to be brought in and exhausted from the top 120mm fan.

Coolermaster uses the same 18 AWG on their 750watt series PSU, which molds well and the bends from having them bundled in shipping can be worked out easily. Cables have a decent length on them ranging from 16 inches to 24 inches. 

So who is the winner here? Well that all depends on the type of system you are building. If you are looking at a work computer without a window, just a general workstation that requires a little extra power but doesn't need to win any car shows, the non-modular is perfect. Use that extra 10 dollars you save on something else in your system like an SSD or better CPU cooler. Then there is the flip side. From the aspect of a modder, the $10 dollar difference is well worth it to save time with dealing with the hard wired cables. Painting the PSU? By not having to modify the chassis to accommodate the extra girth of the sleeved cables and then capping off undesired cables, this all makes life much easier and will save you hours of work. While the user manual does have a pin-out for the fully modular model, I have added this one to the PSU pin-out repository to try and make it easier to understand.   Read the full article

Types of laser die makers

1)Laser die maker

Their product is power-packed to deliver precise and speedy end results. If you are a beginner in this field, try the laser die maker and you won't be disappointed at all. For firms that have been working in this industry for long, the quality products by Accute will be an asset. Metals ranging from stainless steel to aluminium are supported. You can get crystal clear edges and the turnaround time is also quite low.

You can get crystal clear edges and the turnaround time is also quite low. With minor modifications, this machine can prove to be the best companion in your workplace. In order to specifically optimize the cutting paths and speed up the process, appropriate laser cutting software is put to use. For this feature, we can't deny the role of technology. This machine is well equipped with finishing techniques too. For those who stress a lot about the electricity bill, the product efficiency will solve your problem, that too, without compromising on quality. If you have been looking for a cost-effective solution for all your precision cutting needs, we recommend you this power-packed Accute laser die maker. Once you begin using this product, you wouldn't feel like taking your hands off. The worst nightmare for this industry is the heap of material scrap produced as a by product. You would be surprised to know that this machine has a working solution for that as well. The smooth working ensures that the overall residue is reduced. Lastly, this machine is a versatile alternative which is much better than similar products found in the marketplace.  

 2) Laser cartoon die maker    

Corrugated box making involves making designer packaging boxes as per the whims and fancies of your customer. Laser caton die maker by Accute is essential for ventures  that need to specialise in bending and shaping paperboards in order to make boxes. The Accute version of corrugated box die maker is the most reliable product and will suit all your packaging needs. You can simply choose your desired shape, design, and dimensions. Rest of the work will be handled by the sturdy machine! Just by stating the fact that this machine has been manufactured by Accute, it should be clear that there would be no compromise on quality. The high efficiency allows you to use it simultaneously for hours at a stretch. With customized fiberboards, you can enhance the overall look of your boxes. Why do we use corrugated boxes? For strength, and strength is the most vital supplement you are assured with this flawless product. Whether you wish to print barcodes, labels, handling instructions or anything stated by the customers, this machine can do it all. At times, boxes open up during transportation or when heavy materials are being carried. You are assured that such instances will ne negligible. As a strong adhesive is put to use, there are very low chances that a such a situation would ever arise. Have you seen a typical box? It is mostly brown in colour but here, you can modify that as well. With color customizations, you can add the much-needed charm to your products so that the demand is maintained.

  3) Laser paper cup die maker

Today, the use of paper cups is gaining huge popularity among people due to its various advantages. These cups are a type of disposable cups, usually used to take drinks. Nowadays, these cups are used everywhere, in schools, office, hospitals, restaurants and even as one is travelling. The manufacturing of paper cups began in the early 1900s. The main reason behind the manufacturing of paper cups was to stop the use of plastic cups and prevent the spread of diseases caused by them. These cups are non-reusable cups and thus they prevent the spread of germs and diseases. Paper cup manufacturing companies use advanced laser paper cup maker to manufacture these cups In Bulk

 4)Laser label Die maker

If you're industry needs to produce stickers and labels regularly, the efficient Laser Label Die Maker by Accute will serve you well. Irrespective of why you wish to make labels, this machine covers a large range of utilities. An added benefit included that you can customize the labels with much ease as compared to other alternatives present in the market. For perfectionism, the edge-cutting is precise up to the slightest measurement. The economical product will not create any imbalance in your budget. Durability is also high in comparison to its counterparts! In this world of competition, we understand that choosing a product can be confusing at times. Accute has brought to you quality products for all these four years. Within a short span of time, they have established a strong hold over the market, which is something to be appreciated as well. Using their machine, you can print sticky labels, waterproof labels and a host of other related labels. Just specify your requirements and wait for the machine to do the rest of the work. Yes, it is really easy. You don't need to worry about the portability as well. Overall, this product takes away all the burden of label making so you can just relax while the work is on. Printing is faster than ever before and you will be surely impressed by the efficiency of this wonderful product. On the other hand, you get better results for minimal efforts, which is an added advantage in itself! Hope your choice is sorted now and this machine finds way to your workplace. 

 5)Laser corrugated box die maker

Corrugated box making involves making designer packaging boxes as per the whims and fancies of your customer. Laser corrugated box die maker by Accute is essential for ventures  that need to specialise in bending and shaping paperboards in order to make boxes. The Accute version of corrugated box die maker is the most reliable product and will suit all your packaging needs. You can simply choose your desired shape, design, and dimensions. Rest of the work will be handled by the sturdy machine! Just by stating the fact that this machine has been manufactured by Accute, it should be clear that there would be no compromise on quality.

6)LASER BLOCK DIE MAKER

Using a laser block die maker, you can create a range of blocks including braille blocks, texture leafing blocks, etc. The Accute block die maker is the best because it imprints the designated material in exact proportions. Using this product, you can upskill your work towards helping the visually impaired people. For leafing blocks, the texture provided is always unmatched. Your clients will definitely be impressed by the final product! The two alternatives available are zinc and magnesium. You can easily choose between texture leaf blocking and leafing blocks. Leafing blocks are a speciality of Accute manufacturers.

 7)Laser jigsaw puzzle maker

  8)LASER LEAFING BLOCKS MAKER

 The laser leafing block maker by Accute is a highly promising product. The export quality material will surely be a privilege for your new workspace. Even if you have been in this business for long, this modern product will not disappoint you at all. There is a provision to choose adequate between leafing blocks made up of magnesium and zinc. The designs can be customised so easily that you would not feel any fatigue while working. As we already know that it is exported, it goes without saying that the raw materials used for manufacturing this product are durable as well. The overall output meets the high standards of precise leafing. The blemishes are almost negligible and the amazing end results will never fail to impress your customers. All these much-needed features are included in this power-packed leafing block maker. Overwhelmed by the utilities? This might lead you to think that the price range would exceed your budget. That is not the case here! You get all these features at a nominal pocket friendly price. The size variations are also quite user friendly. When you get a glimpse of the final design, the precise finish is sure to leave you amazed. If you have been looking for a machine which combines efficiency with quality, this one is the best recommendation you would ever get. With increasing levels of environment pollution, corrosion is also an issue to be careful about. You would be surprised to know that Accute is there to sort that out for you! The corrosion resistant version is specially crafted to suit your needs. 

 9)Laser on line die with embossing maker

Accute has a well-known name, involved in providing an extensive series of Laser on line die with embossing die. Our product is extremely employed by customers owing to their sturdy nature.

10)Laser Striping Die maker

Laser stripping die is the process of removing all or part of the insulating material that covers electrical cables. In other words, it is the process used to uncover the metal core of the cables. It is typically done at the cable’s ends to make connections possible, but it can also be done in various ways along the cable with the help of Laser Striping Die maker

How to Extend the Life of Your Garage Door

Written by NY Gates and published on https://www.nygates.com/.

Usually, homeowners don’t spend much time thinking about their garage doors — until they break down. After all, your garage door is made of intricate mechanical systems that can wear out over time. If you take care of it properly, though, you’ll enjoy years of smooth operation. Check out our new video for tips to extend the life of your garage door!

6 Ways to Increase the Life of Your Garage Door

In most houses, the garage door is a significant part of the exterior of the home. How your garage door looks and functions have a big influence on the curb-side appeal of your property. Maintaining a garage door to increase its lifespan makes your life easier and improves your property value.

Your garage door is a complicated piece of equipment. Unlike other doors in the house which move on simple hinges, lifting and controlling the weight of a garage door requires specialized hinges, tracks, rollers,  motor, cables, brackets, and electronic safety sensors and opening devices.

Maintaining all of these parts keeps a garage door working for as long as possible. Understanding the components of your garage door and opener, and knowing what care they need, is the starting point for increasing the lifespan of your garage door.

Get to Know Your Garage Door

Many people are not familiar with how their garage door is constructed or how it operates. If this is you, start off by getting to know more about your garage door and its opening mechanism.

The garage door itself and the garage door opener are two separate products. Each one comes with an owner’s manual. The owner’s manual contains important information about maintenance and repair, and reading it only takes a few minutes.

If you do not have a manual, you may be able to download one online. Look on the door itself and also on the opener motor. Each should have a tag with the make, model, and serial number information which you can type into a search box to locate an owner’s manual.

There are a wide variety of garage door types and just as many garage door opening systems. Once you have read the manuals (if possible), move on to looking at your door and opener and familiarizing yourself with their parts.

Most garage doors open upwards into the ceiling of the garage. Some types open outward in carriage-house door style. Most residences do not have garage doors that roll up, but they are common in commercial settings and occasionally are installed in homes.

Garage doors that open upwards come in sectional models and fixed panel models. Each type uses a different kind of hinge mechanism for lifting the door. Sectional garage doors have hinges bolted onto the inside of the door holding three to six horizontal panels together and allowing them to fold as the door is lifted.

Fixed doors do not fold. Instead, they tilt and slide upward and backward into the garage ceiling. Fixed doors have a scissor-like a hinge on each side of the door for maneuvering it backward and up.

A spring provides a counterbalance to the weight of the door as it moves. These come in two main types. Extension springs are regularly looking, elongated springs. On torsion spring models, there is a metal bar above the door containing a spring inside a housing.

Finally, there is the garage door opening mechanism. This unit has

a cable connected at the top and center of the door and attached to the emergency release leaver,

a motor,

wall mounted openers,

electronic eye safety sensors.

Once you are familiar with the components of your garage door, each time you use it, look and listen for

any changes in the sound of the motor or scraping sound in the tracks,

the door opening evenly from side to side,

the door moving at a constant speed.

Because garage doors are complex, they need more maintenance than other parts of a home. As soon as you notice problems in the operation of your garage door, take action yourself or call a repairman.

Test Safety Features and Door Balance Regularly

A garage door balance check only takes a few minutes. When the door is not properly balanced, it is no longer safe and the opener motor has to work harder. This decreases the life of the opener.

The door balance test tells you whether the springs, tensioner, or cables need adjusting. If they do, this is not a do-it-yourself job for most people. These components are under extreme tension and are dangerous to work on. If the door fails the balance test, call a professional for help.

To test the door balance, close the door and disconnect the opener by pulling the emergency release handle. This cord is usually red and hangs just above the middle of the door. Pulling the cord lets you open the door manually.

Now lift the door by hand until it is about halfway open and let it go. Be sure your feet are not underneath it. The door should stay put or slowly open or close. If it closes or goes up quickly, contacts a garage door specialist to make adjustments.

The other important safety check is the automatic reverse opening mechanism. This is usually controlled by photo eyes located about six inches above the floor on either side of the door. Wipe these sensors with a clean cloth a few times a year to get rid of dust and bugs.

Then check the mechanism by closing the door with the remote and waving a broom or other object into the path of the photon beam. As soon as the object breaks the light beam, the door should retract and go back up. If it does not, get it repaired as soon as possible and avoid using the door until you do.

Inspect Rollers and Tighten Fasteners

The rollers run inside the tracks and are usually made of nylon or steel. They last about seven or eight years under normal use and are an important part to replace when they get worn. Inspect them visually about twice a year looking for cracking, chipping, or excessive wear. Open and close the door while watching and listening to the rollers and lubricate them and any other components according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Garage doors and openers are attached to the framing of the house with hex-head bolts. There are also small bolts on the hinges on sectional doors. These bolts come loose over time due to the vibration caused by opening and closing the door and should be tightened once a year with a socket wrench. Do not adjust any bolts painted red. These are high tension adjustment screws which should only be worked on by someone with training.

Maintain Weather Stripping, Caulk, and Insulation

Like other doors and windows, garage doors require caulking around the outside of the door frame. Caulking needs replacement when it begins to discolor, crack, or fall out of place.

There is also usually rubber weather stripping on the bottom of the door. When it becomes brittle or broken, the old rubber can be pulled out and replaced with new weather stripping.

Some doors have insulation on the inside. Insulation can come loose or become damaged and should be replaced as needed.

Maintain the Door Exterior

Garage doors tend to get shabby looking on the outside before the whole house needs a new paint job. Cleaning a garage door is simple. Just put some mild detergent in a bucket and use a scrub brush or mop to clean the surface. Then rinse the door with a garden hose.

Look at the condition of the door itself. Wooden doors can warp and splinter. Wood and steel doors may need to touch up paint. Vinyl and aluminum doors can crack or bend, needing replacement. Maintaining the exterior surface of the door protects it against the elements and extends its lifespan.

Consider Hiring a Garage Door Professional

If keeping up with all the maintenance and repair of your garage door is too much for you, consider using the services of a professional garage door company.

Original post here https://ift.tt/3cpex2j.

Choosing the Right Raceway

Although many types of raceway are similar, each exists for particular reasons. Weigh the advantages and disadvantages of each before making a final selection.

Definition of raceway indicates that it is an enclosed channel designed expressly for holding wires, cables, or bus bars. When viewing the types of raceways included in this definition, it can be broadly divided into circular raceways and non-circular raceways, such as wire ways. Two specific types of circular raceway are conduit and tubing

Intermediate Metal Conduit

Intermediate metal conduit (IMC) is a circular metal raceway with an outside diameter equal to that of rigid metal conduit (RMC). The wall thickness of IMC is less than that of RMC, so it has more interior room for conductors.

IMC is lighter and less expensive than rigid metal conduit, but you can use it in all of the same locations as RMC. Though IMC has thinner walls than RMC, IMC is actually the stronger of the two — because of the steel alloy used to make it.

The NEC has long required that raceways be secured within 36 in. of enclosures. Although it was generally accepted that this allowed raceways less than 36 in. to be unsupported, some inspectors required these short raceways to be supported, because there was no allowance for an unsupported raceway.

A revision to 342.30(C) required support for any length of raceway that’s coupled or terminates in a ringed knockout. It also decreased the 36 in. to 18 in., without substantiation.

IMC requires a bushing wherever the conduit enters a box, fitting, or other enclosure, unless the design of the box, fitting, or enclosure provides some sort of protection. The protection afforded has long been required to be “equivalent” to that of a bushing, but some Code users had a hard time understanding what “equivalent” meant.

NEC clarifies how this protection should be provided: To protect conductors from abrasion, a metal or plastic bushing must be installed on conduit termination threads, regardless of conductor size, unless the box, fitting, or enclosure is designed to provide this protection.

Rigid Metal Conduit

RMC, commonly called “rigid,” has long been the standard raceway for providing protection from physical impact and from difficult environments.

Flexible Metal Conduit

Flexible metal conduit (FMC), commonly called “Greenfield” or “flex,” is a raceway of an interlocked spiral metal strip. Although the length of an FMC installation is not limited, it’s primarily used for the final 6 ft or less of raceways between a more rigid raceway system and equipment that moves, shakes, or vibrates. Examples of such equipment include pump motors and industrial machinery.

Over the last few Code cycles, Art. 348 has been revised to allow for greater lengths of unsupported FMC in installations where flexibility is a concern. While these changes have gone a long way toward uniform understanding and enforcement, not all NEC users agree on how to measure these raceways. With the revisions introduced in 2011, it becomes clear that measurement begins at the last point of support for these systems.

The NEC requires equipment to have an equipment grounding conductor (EGC). It’s been common to use the metal strip in FMC as the EGC. It can be argued that an unusually high amount of vibration can compromise the integrity of FMC’s ability to act as an EGC. This change provides consistency with the requirements.

Liquidtight Flexible Metal Conduit

Liquidtight flexible metal conduit (LFMC), with its associated connectors and fittings, is a flexible raceway. Where vibration or frequent relocation is an issue, LFMC is often the solution for connecting the equipment. LFMC is of similar construction to FMC, but also has an outer liquidtight thermoplastic covering to provide protection from moisture and some corrosives.

Polyvinyl Chloride Conduit

Rigid polyvinyl chloride conduit (PVC) is a rigid nonmetallic conduit that provides many of the advantages of RMC, while allowing installation in areas that are wet or corrosive. PVC conduit is an inexpensive, easily installed raceway. It’s lightweight, easily cut, and relatively strong.

On the downside, conduits manufactured from PVC are brittle when cold, and they sag when hot. PVC is commonly used as an underground raceway because of its low cost, ease of installation, and resistance to corrosion and decay.

Electrical Metallic Tubing

Electrical metallic tubing (EMT) is a lightweight raceway that’s relatively easy to bend, cut, and ream. Because it isn’t threaded, all connectors and couplings are of the threadless type and provide quick, easy, and inexpensive installation compared to threaded metallic conduit systems. Consequently, EMT is very popular. EMT is manufactured in galvanized steel or aluminum; the steel type is more commonly used.

Metal Wireways

Metal wireways are commonly used where access to the conductors within the raceway is required to make terminations, splices, or taps to several devices at a single location. High cost precludes their use for other than short distances, except in some commercial or industrial occupancies where the wiring is frequently revised. Both metal wireways and nonmetallic wireways are often called “troughs” or “gutters” in the field.

This Code section was in desperate need of cleaning up. Previously, 376.10(3) included both hazardous (classified) locations and wet locations, causing confusion as to the relationship between these locations. This 2011 NEC change eliminates the wet location confusion and enhances the readability of the NEC.

Preventing Raceway Overload

With so many types of raceway, how can you keep all the requirements straight. For example, say you are trying to decide between IMC and EMT for a particular application. Turn to Sec. 10 of Art. 342 and Art. 358, and read the Uses Permitted. Then, read the Uses Not Permitted in Section 12. This will tell you if you can use either wiring method for a particular application. If both pass this test, then you can work through each Article and compare the requirements of the two raceways.

Sidebar: Conduit Vs. Tubing

Many people erroneously refer to electrical metallic tubing (EMT) as “conduit.” EMT is actually a tubing rather than a conduit. Conduit and tubing are two different wiring methods that differ in application and installation requirements, although neither is defined by the Code.

In the NEC, the phrase “conduit or tubing” appears multiple times, indicating a choice between two different things.

The term “raceway” can be used to refer to an enclosed wiring method, including both conduit and tubing. Just remember that there are other types of raceway as well, such as wireways.

How to Extend Your Wifi Network With an Old Router

It’s the most irritating scenario: You set up your router in your new house or apartment, and your wifi is working flawlessly, until you find your downloads (or streaming) screech to a halt in that area that’s just outside your router’s range—like the exact spot where you watch Apple TV on the couch, or stream music at your workbench, or binge movies in bed.

There are plenty of tricks you can use to squeak a little more range out of your existing equipment. If your networking gear is old, or you don’t want to deal with a lot of hassle, I normally recommend buying something new: a better router that supports the fastest wireless speeds your devices can handle, a wifi mesh system with a dedicated backhaul connection, or even a super-cheap wifi extender if you just need a bit more range for simpler tasks.

If you don’t feel like spending a penny more for your setup, you have an alternative: using an old router to extend (or build onto) your primary router’s wireless signal. You know the one—that trusty, retired workhorse you’ve kept around in case of emergency (or from laziness).

Instead of letting it collect more dust, you can repurpose the old router to help boost the range of your wireless network at home. This won’t be a perfect solution, especially if it’s some older wireless-n router that you’re trying to force into your newer wireless-ac world, but it can at least save you some cash and possibly give you better wireless performance than a simpler extender. Waste not, want not?

Option 1: A new access point

The best thing you can do with an old wifi router you’re no longer using is to convert it into a simple wireless access point. So long as your house or apartment is wired for Ethernet (or you don’t mind stringing cables), it’s an easy way to give an area wireless connectivity that doesn’t already have it (or has a weak signal).

To get started, connect your older router (WAN port) to your newer router (LAN port), and connect a device to your older router. Pull up your older router’s settings—more on how to do that here—and look around for some kind of “access point mode,” as it’s commonly called. Depending on the router, this might even be called “bridge mode,” which is a confusing term that we’ll address later in this article.

Screenshot: Netgear

What you’re trying to do is disable the router’s DHCP server—how connected devices receive an internal IP address from your router. If you don’t, you’re committing the networking sin of running a router inside a router, which might cause issues for whatever you’re doing on devices connected to your second router.

To note: Performing this step will change the IP address you use to access your router’s settings via your browser, if you went that route. You’ll also need to reset your router and switch the Ethernet cable from its WAN port to one of its LAN ports. To find your older router’s new IP address, pull up your newer router’s configuration and look for the section where your your router lists connected devices. Your older router should be one of them.

(You can also probably set your router’s IP address manually on its configuration screen, if you’d rather remember it that way.)

Place your router in a perfect place for wherever you’re planning to expand your wireless capabilities, assuming you have a long-enough Ethernet cable, or in-wall cabling.

It’s convenient to set up your old router’s wireless networks with the same SSID and password as your existing wireless networks. I like giving them different names than my existing wifi networks (same password), because then I can decide which access point to connect to—the newer router or the older router.

Why? Because your devices are probably stupid and cling to a lower-strength wireless signal for way too long, and your older router likely doesn’t support any features for bouncing devices with poor signals off the access point. Using separate SSIDs for your different routers means you’ll have to make sure you’re connected to the right wifi network if you’re moving around a lot between the two, but that’s a small issue to deal with for the performance benefits. You don’t want your device to cling to your older router’s so-so signal if your newer router’s faster wifi network is a better option (or vice versa).

Option 2: Use your router’s wireless repeater mode

Look through your router’s settings (or manual) to determine if it has some kind of “wireless repeater,” “extender,” or “bridge” mode—yes, it’s that bridge word again, which router manufacturers love to use to mean different things.

If you’re not sure if you’re selecting the correct mode or not, see if your older router’s manual (or the description of the feature within the router’s UI) indicates that this mode will allow your older router to connect to another router using its wireless signal. Most importantly, your older router will also need to be able to accept wireless connections from devices.

(Sometimes, when router manufacturers say “wireless bridge,” they mean connecting two routers together over wifi without allowing any other wireless clients to connect. In this scenario, any devices you connected to your older router via an Ethernet cable would join your larger network.)

If you think about it, this setup replaces the Ethernet cable of the previous step—the one connecting your new router and your old router—with a wireless signal. This kind of a setup also comes with one important caveat: If you run your old router as a wifi extender, you’re going to cut your performance in half for connected devices. LearnTomato describes why:

“There is a downside to using a wireless bridge in repeater mode and WDS mode. If the secondary router retransmits the wireless signal (instead of connecting client computers with a wire), the wireless throughput in the secondary building will be cut in half. Each transmission is known as a “hop”. The second wireless hop is the one that takes the hit. […]

Basically, wireless clients connected to the second router will not enjoy the same performance as the wireless clients connected to the first router. Why? Because the transmitter in the second router has to do twice the work. It must first receive the signal from the primary router, and then retransmit the signal to wireless clients.”

This is why you’re always better off using an Ethernet connection, where possible, to connect access points to your primary router. A wireless bridge might be more convenient, but your speeds can suffer.

If your router isn’t an extender, make it one

There’s a good chance that your router, old (or cheap) as it is, doesn’t have any options built into its UI that allow you to use it as an access point or an extender. Resist the urge to drop this router in the recycling bin, because you still have a chance to bend it to your will. You’ll have to flash it with a third-party firmware—the software you’d interact with to change its settings—which can help you unlock features you couldn’t previously play with.

I like using DD-WRT myself, but you can also try OpenWRT or Tomato—or even AdvancedTomato, if you want a prettier GUI. You’ll have to do a little digging to see which firmware works with your specific router (if any), and know that you router might have different versions, too. (This is something you’ll probably cross-reference against each third-party firmware by consulting the label on the bottom or rear of your router.)

It’s important to get the right firmware, and the right version of that firmware, for your specific router, as flashing your router with incorrect firmware could cause a world of issues that might take a lot more time to fix. You can check support for your exact router here:

Since I’m practicing this on a TP-Link Archer C7, I decided to go with good ol’ DD-WRT. I started by looking at the bottom of my router to confirm that I had hardware version “v2, and I then downloaded the corresponding firmware (factory-to-ddwrt.bin) from DD-WRT’s site.

Screenshot: David Murphy ((DD-WRT)

I then jumped into the regular web interface for the Archer C7—by typing in the typical 192.168.0.1 into my web browser—and navigated over to the section you’d normally use to update the router’s firmware with a new image from TP-Link. Instead, I selected the DD-WRT .BIN file I just downloaded, and let ‘er rip.

Screenshot: David Murphy

��and nothing happened.

Screenshot: David Murphy

As is sometimes the case, the firmware updating process didn’t accept the obviously-not-from-TP-Link image. If this happens to you, don’t give up. I hit up the DD-WRT forums, found the gigantic post for the Archer C7 router, and learned that I would probably have better luck flashing my router with the most recent DD-WRT beta, rather than what was listed in the site’s Router Database. I did that, and…success!

Screenshot: David Murphy

I then visited DD-WRT’s Wireless tab and looked for the “Wireless Mode” section for my router’s 2.4Ghz and 5GHz radios. I clicked the drop-down box and…again, nothing. No “repeater” mode to select. As it turns out, the Archer C7 uses a Qualcomm Atheros chip, and that doesn’t support “easy mode,” or the conventional repeater mode that you’d otherwise be able to select. Sigh.

Screenshot: David Murphy

If you find yourself in this boat, you still have options. This tutorial, though extensive, should be able to get your old router set up as a wifi extender. If you’re using a dual-band router, it’s even easier. Follow the steps to connect your old router to your new router via “client mode,” but don’t create a virtual interface. Use your router’s other radio in AP mode, instead—devices will connect to that, and your old router will use the other radio for the backhaul connection to your existing router.

Screenshot: David Murphy

At this point, you’re probably wishing you bit the bullet and just bought a cheap extender. I don’t blame you, but this is sort-of fun—and it’s a lot easier than I thought it would be, that’s for sure.

Let’s recap

If you’re not looking to spend money on upgrading your home wifi setup, you should consider using an older router to extend your wireless signal in your house. Every little bit helps. Keep these pointers in mind when you’re building your new Frankenstein-like networking setup:

Wherever possible, connect your older router to your existing network using Ethernet cable.

Don’t forget to disable your old router’s “routing” capabilities. If your older router has an “access point” mode, that makes this even easier.

Consider using different SSIDs for your old and new networks, so you can have more manual control over how your various devices connect.

You can also try setting your router up as a wireless extender, but you’ll take a performance hit.

If your router doesn’t come with a wireless extender mode by default, you might be able to flash it with third-party firmware to unlock the feature.

This story was originally published on 7/30/13 and was updated on 6/27/19 to provide updated information.

The post How to Extend Your Wifi Network With an Old Router appeared first on Fakaza247.

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Doing the right kinds of maintenance on your car will not only help it to hold its value, it will also help to keep it safe and reliable. Regular car maintenance involves a wide variety of projects that may not all be easy to do at home. However, by understanding what needs to be done to maintain your car, you can be better equipped to talk to your local service center about doing the work your car needs.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Managing Your Car’s Fluids and Filters

Look for application-specific needs in your owner’s manual. While many aspects of routine maintenance on your care are universal, there are some that may be specific to your car’s particular make, model, or year. Check in the owner’s manual for scheduled maintenance requirements to ensure you don’t miss any important ones.[1]

Some cars need to have their timing belts replaced at specific mileage intervals. Otherwise, you risk doing damage to your cylinder head.

If you don’t have an owner’s manual, refer to the manufacturer’s website for further guidance.

Check the fluid reservoirs in the engine bay and add more fluid when needed. Your engine bay has plastic reservoirs for brake fluid, engine coolant, windshield washer fluid, and power steering fluid. The lower line on the reservoir is the “fill” point. Any time you see the fluid drop below that line, add more until it’s back up to the higher line, which is the “full” point.[2]

Some vehicles have specific requirements for the type of coolant or brake fluid you use. Refer to your owner’s manual or an application specific repair manual to see what kind is right for your specific car.

To fill each reservoir, unscrew the cap and pour the fluid in until it reaches the “full” point as indicated on the side. Then screw the cap back on.

Change your oil every 3,000 miles. Once you hit the 3,000-mile mark, jack up the car and slide a container beneath the oil pan. Remove the drain bolt (the only bolt running into the oil pan) and allow the oil to drain out into the container. Then locate the oil filter and remove it it. Put a bit of oil on your finger and run it along the seal of the new filter, then screw it in place. Return the drain bolt to the oil pan once it has finished draining.[3]

Refill the engine with the correct amount and type of oil once the new filter is in place and you have reinserted the drain plug.

Different vehicles have different oil capacities and requirements. Refer to your owner’s manual or an application specific repair manual to find out what type and amount of oil you need for your car.

Swap out your air filter every year. The air filter prevents sand and debris from getting into your engine from outside. Most filters need to be replaced annually, though some aftermarket filters can be cleaned instead of replaced. Find the airbox at the end of the intake pipe that leads into the top of the engine. Release the 2 to 4 clips holding it closed and open the top to access the air filter.[4]

The filter just sits inside the air box. Remove it with your hand and set the new one in its place.

Close the air box again and use the clips to secure the lid.

Use the right octane fuel for your engine. The octane rating of fuel is a measurement of the fuel’s stability under pressure. High compression or forced induction engines (turbocharged or supercharged engines) require a higher octane fuel than most other vehicles. Using a lower octane fuel could cause damage to the engine and create real problems in the future.[5]

Most cars that require “premium” fuel will say so on the instrument cluster of the dashboard and over the fuel filler cap.

Check your owner’s manual or the manufacturer’s website if you’re still unsure what octane level of fuel your vehicle needs.

Install a new fuel filter every 40,000 miles. The fuel filter blocks the passage of dirt and sediment from your fuel tank to the engine itself. To replace the filter, locate it along the fuel line running from the gas tank to the front of the car. It will look like a cylinder with a nozzle coming out of the front and back. Place a container beneath it to catch any leaking fuel, then use a flat head screwdriver to pop off the clips holding the fuel lines on the nozzles.[6]

Loosen the bracket holding the old fuel filter in place and slide it out.

Slide the new one into the bracket and tighten it down. Attach the fuel lines to each nozzle and reinsert the clips to hold them in place.

If you break the clips, you can buy new ones at your local hardware store.

Drain and flush your coolant system once a year. Jack up the vehicle and place a container beneath the radiator’s drain plug. Open the drain plug and allow all of the coolant to pour out. Then close the drain plug again. Open the radiator cap at the top of the radiator and fill it with water, then close the cap and drain it again. Then refill the radiator with the right coolant for your vehicle.[7]

Most vehicles require a 50/50 water and coolant mixture. You can usually purchase pre-mixed coolant at your local auto parts store.

Check your owner’s manual or a vehicle specific repair manual to see how much coolant to add and what specific type of coolant your car needs.

Clean your radiator with bug remover when it gets dirty. Spray radiator bug remover onto the radiator and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Don’t touch or scrub the radiator itself. Touching it may bend the blades or result in injury since they are sharp. Instead, allow the bug remover to set for around 2 minutes and then spray it off with a hose.[8]

Read the instructions on the bug remover you purchase to make sure you use it properly.

[Edit]Taking Care of Brakes, Belts, and Hoses

Replace your brake pads every 20,000 miles. Failing brakes can be extremely dangerous. If you think your brakes may be failing, have them serviced immediately. To do it yourself, loosen the car’s lug nuts and then jack the vehicle up. Support the car with jack stands then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Locate the brake caliper (it looks like a vice clamped onto the circular rotor) and remove the 2 bolts that hold it in place. Slide it off the rotor and use a C-clamp to compress the piston back into the caliper.[9]

At that point, you can install the new brake pads into the caliper by sliding them into place where the old ones were.

Remove the C-clamp, place the caliper back on the rotor, then reinsert the 2 bolts that hold it in place.

Repeat that process on the other side, then put the wheels back on and lower the car.

Change out worn or damaged belts. Check your belts for signs of cracking or advanced wear like rub marks. Then, check the belt’s tension to ensure it hasn’t stretched out. If you spot signs of damage or the belt doesn’t have enough tension, replace it. Insert a breaker bar into the opening on the auto-tensioner pulley and turn it counterclockwise if your car is equipped with one, otherwise, loosen the 2 bolts holding the alternator on the bracket to relieve the tension on the belt. Slide it off of all the pulleys then put the new on one in its place.[10]

Make sure to follow the diagram on the sticker in your engine bay (or in an application-specific repair manual) when running the new belt through the pulleys.

Use the breaker bar on the auto tensioner or apply pressure to the alternator to add tension to the belt, then release the tensioner pulley or tighten the alternator bolts in place to keep the belt tight.

Replace cracked or damaged hoses. With the hood open, look over the rubber hoses in the engine bay for any signs of damage. If you spot a damaged hose, place a drain pan beneath it and loosen the hose clamps with pliers or a screwdriver. Remove the hose and take it to your local auto parts store to get a replacement one of the correct length and interior diameter.[11]

Install the new house in place of the old one and re-tighten the hose clamps.

Add a 50/50 water and coolant mixture to the coolant reservoir until it reaches the full line again when you’re done.

[Edit]Maintaining the Electrical System

Clean your battery contacts once a year. The connection for your battery can sometimes get corroded or covered in grime, making it harder for the electrical current to flow through the car’s system. Use the correct sized wrench or socket and ratchet to loosen the bolt holding the negative (-) cable on the battery, then slide the cable off. Then do the same with the positive (+) cable. Add 1 tablespoon (13.8 g) of baking soda to of water, then dip a steel toothbrush in the mixture.[12]

Use the brush and mixture to clean all corrosion and grime off of the battery posts and the metal connections on the cables.

Wipe the battery posts clean with a damp rag, then connect the positive cable to the battery again.

Reconnect the negative cable last.

Test your lights and replace any bulbs that have blown out. Ask a friend to stand in front of your car while you turn on your headlight low beams and then high beams. Then test the left and right turn signals. Next, ask your friend to move to the back of the car while you test your brake lights and each turn signal once again.[13]

You can access blown out headlight bulbs from behind the headlight housing inside the engine bay. Tail lights are usually accessed through the inside of the trunk.

Unplug the wiring pigtail going into your headlight or taillight, then twist the bulb housing counterclockwise and pull it backward to remove it. Replace the bulb and reinsert it.

If you can’t figure out how to replace a bulb that’s gone out, refer to the vehicle’s owner’s manual or an application-specific repair manual for more guidance.

Check and replace fuses as they blow out. If some lights go out in the interior of your car, chances are good that it’s a blown fuse. Locate the 2 fuse boxes in your car. One is usually near your left knee when sitting in the driver’s seat and the other is often found inside the engine bay. Use the diagram on the fuse box lids to find the right fuse for the lights that went out, then remove that fuse and replace it with one rated for the same electrical amperage.[14]

The number of amps a fuse can withstand is written on the fuse itself. Make sure the new fuse has the same number written on it as the blown one you’re replacing.

If you can’t locate your fuse boxes or they don’t have the diagram, refer to the owner’s manual or an application specific repair manual to find the fuse that’s gone out.

Replace your spark plugs every 30,000 miles. Open the hood and locate the spark plug wires running into the top of the engine. Grip the closest wire to you low at its base and pull it up to unplug it from the spark plug. Use a spark plug socket and a ratchet to unscrew the spark plug and pull it up and out of the engine.[15]

Gap the new spark plug using a spark plug gapping tool. You’ll find the correct gap measurement in the vehicle’s owner’s manual or an application specific repair manual.

Place the new plug in the spark plug socket and insert it into the engine. Insert it first by hand and then tighten it with a ratchet.

Reconnect the spark plug wire and repeat the process for each cylinder.

Use an OBD-II scanner to check and clear error codes. If your check engine light comes on, turn the vehicle off and plug an OBD-II scanner into the rounded trapezoid-shaped port located beneath the steering wheel. Turn the key in the ignition to “accessory” and turn on the code scanner to see what set off the check engine light.[16]

Write down the code if the code scanner doesn’t give you an English description. You can look the code up on the manufacturer’s website or in an application-specific repair manual.

Use any error codes you find to help you determine if there is something wrong with your vehicle that may need repairs.

Once you make repairs, use the code scanner to clear the error codes and turn off the check engine light.

You can purchase OBD-II scanners at your local auto parts store, but they can often scan your car for your for free.

[Edit]Handling Exterior Maintenance

Check your tire pressure and add air when needed. Look at the side of your tire and find where it says, “max pressure” followed by a number and the letters “PSI.” Then, unscrew the cap on the tire and press a tire gauge onto the nozzle to see what the pressure inside the tire actually is. If it’s lower than a few PSI (pounds per square inch) below the maximum rating, use an air compressor to add air to the tire until it’s within a few PSI of the max.[17]

Many tire air machines at gas stations have a tire gauge built into them.

Low tire pressure can reduce your fuel mileage and cause your tires to wear out prematurely.

Use a penny to check the tread on your tires for wear. You can use a penny to assess the level of tread left on your tires quickly. Turn the penny upside down and hold it so you can clearly see Lincoln’s head. Insert the penny into the groove between the tire treads and see how much of Lincoln’s head you can still see clearly.[18]

If you can see Lincoln’s hair, you will need new tires soon.

If you can see Lincoln’s entire head, you need new tires immediately.

Rotate your tires every 5,000 miles. Make sure the tread on your tires wear evenly by swapping them on the car periodically. Jack the car up and support its weight with jack stands, then take the wheel and tire from the rear of the car and install on the front. Install what was the front wheel onto the rear. Then do the same on the other side.[19]

Front and rear tires wear differently because the front tires do most of the braking and turning.

With some tires, you can swap them from side to side as well.

If your tires have directional arrows on the sideway, keep those arrows pointed toward the front of the car. Do not swap the tires to the other side.

Swap out your windshield wipers when they start to streak. Windshield wipers are an important piece of safety gear for your car. When they begin to make streaks on your windshield, it means they need to be replaced. On most cars, you can grab the wiper and pull it out away from the windshield. Then turn the wiper so it is perpendicular to the wiper arm and slide it down off the arm’s hook to remove it.[20]

Slide the new wiper onto the hook, then rotate it so it is parallel with the wiper arm.

If you can’t figure out how to remove the wiper blade, refer to your owner’s manual or an application-specific repair manual.

Wax your car to protect the paint twice per year. The paint on your car does more than just keep it looking nice. It also prevents rusting that can lead to expensive repairs. Wash your car and then apply a fresh layer of wax to the paint every 6 months to give it a bit of added protection and stave off any potential rusting that could develop.[21]

First wash the car with automotive soap and rinse it thoroughly. Allow it to dry or dry it with towels.

Apply the wax to the car’s paint using the provided applicator in a swirling motion, then wait for it to dry completely.

Buff the wax off using a clean chamois cloth.

[Edit]Tips

Many service centers and auto mechanics will offer “tune-ups.” These aren’t always worth it. Ask for an itemized list of what work each shop will do during their tune-ups.

Most of these items can be done at home with common hand tools, or by your neighborhood auto service or auto repair facility.

[Edit]Related wikiHows

Change the Oil in Your Car

Change a Fuel Filter

Read and Understand OBD Codes

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary

↑ https://www.bar.ca.gov/Consumer/Owners_Manual_Top_5.html

↑ https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2008/12/car-care-five-fluids-to-check/index.htm

↑ https://www.dmv.org/how-to-guides/basic-car-care.php

↑ https://www.moneycrashers.com/diy-car-maintenance-tips-checklist/

↑ https://www.carbibles.com/car-maintenance-tips/

↑ https://www.moneycrashers.com/diy-car-maintenance-tips-checklist/

↑ https://www.kbb.com/car-advice/articles/top-ten-car-care-tips/

↑ https://youtu.be/66e5TurrbVI?t=52

↑ https://www.moneycrashers.com/diy-car-maintenance-tips-checklist/

↑ https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/changing-a-car-serpentine-belt/view-all/

↑ https://www.consumerreports.org/car-repair-maintenance/how-to-inspect-car-belts-and-hoses/

↑ https://youtu.be/kSkbTmtBZUc?t=27

↑ https://www.safemotorist.com/Articles/Vehicle_Maintenance.aspx

↑ https://www.dmv.org/how-to-guides/fuse.php

↑ https://www.safemotorist.com/Articles/Vehicle_Maintenance.aspx

↑ https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a10411/check-engine-light/

↑ https://www.dmv.org/how-to-guides/check-tire-pressure.php

↑ https://www.dmv.org/how-to-guides/check-tire-pressure.php

↑ https://www.carbibles.com/car-maintenance-tips/

↑ https://www.moneycrashers.com/diy-car-maintenance-tips-checklist/

↑ https://www.kbb.com/car-advice/articles/top-ten-car-care-tips/

Underground Wire Short

Underground Wire Short | Here's the section of wire that caused my problem. You can see how the dead short caused a small fire underground burning away the plastic wire insulation. Underground wire, in my opinion, should be placed in conduit. That said, read what Mike Cyr, one of my newsletter subscribers, sent to me below. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

Underground Wire Short - Conduit and Sand Are the Answers

I didn't build the house I'm living in. Each month I discover something new where the builder and his subcontractors took a shortcut.

A few months ago I had an underground wire short. This wire extends from the corner of my house up to the base of an oak tree. From there it split off to a spotlight and then to a post lamp at the end of the driveway.

Was the Wire Rated For Underground Burial?

Yes, the wire was rated for direct burial.

Was the Wire Put in Conduit to Protect It?

There was one piece of 3/4-inch PVC conduit that ran under the blacktop driveway. On either side of the conduit, the wire was buried in the rocky soil without a conduit.

What Caused the Underground Wire Short?

Frost movement in my soil caused the wire short. It's important to realize I live in New Hampshire and the ground freezes each winter. It then thaws in the spring.

The freezing and thawing cause movement in the soil. Water in the soil expands by 9 percent in volume when it turns to ice. This movement wore away the insulation on the wire where it exited the end of a piece of PVC conduit.

Would the Short Have Happened if the Wire was in Conduit?

Maybe. In my case, you can see in the photo below what was the primary cause of the short. The wire exited the conduit and made a sharp 90-degree bend. That bend in the wire contributed the friction along the edge of the conduit.

The conduit is at the top of the photo. You can see the original underground gray wire in the trench. Look at the closeup photo below to see the wire make the sharp 90-degree bend. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

The red arrow points to the exact location of the underground wire short before I pulled the wire out of the ground. May the electrician who put in this wire have black flies around his face for months on end every year. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

I feel conduit is a great idea because it protects underground wires from gardening shovels and spades.

I cut the wire and made an above-ground splice in a waterproof code-approved junction box. I installed all new wire from this junction box to the oak tree on the other side of the driveway. This wire was placed inside new PVC NEC-approved conduit. I connected my new conduit to that which existed under the driveway.

Here's where I made the splice connecting a new underground cable to the old buried one. The conduit on the left travels up under the drive to the oak tree. The conduit on the right has the original wire that extends back to the corner of the garage. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

Is There Another Way to Prevent an Underground Wire Short?

Mike Cyr is one of my newsletter subscribers. He's a great man that I hope to meet one day. He routinely responds to my comments in my newsletter and had this to say when I bemoaned my shorted wire in the spring of 2019:

"I have a friend who just retired as a master electrician and has done a lot of my work and we have buried some wires underground over the years.

He is against burying wire in conduit, and his reasoning is this: He claims that frost up here in northern Maine can go deep and can bring rocks up out of the ground and lift and stretch the conduit and actually break a joint or splice in the conduit, thus breaking the wire or opening a small gap in the conduit enough to fill with water and freeze the next freeze-thaw cycle and break the wire.

When he and I buried wire many times and many years ago, he would use direct burial wire which is designed for underground and we would put about 1-2 feet of sand under the wire and then make the trench 1 to 2 ft. wide and zig-zag the wire in the trench thus allowing the wire some slack to move with the frost.  We would then bury it with sand or crusher dust.

He told me he has never had a wire break doing it this way but has had many come apart in the conduits. This is just some food for thought."

Mike's electrician friend is right. Frost does push rocks up through the soil. Just ask any New England farmer! I don't dispute anything Mike's electrician said and protecting the wire with lots of sand is an excellent idea.

If you're going to bury your wire the way Mike's electrician does it and you're passing through a garden area, be sure to bury the wire quite deep so no shovel, spade, or roto-tiller can cut the wire.

What Does Wire Buried in Conduit Look Like?

It looks like victory. Can you see how this would prevent the wire from rubbing against anything? Sure, in extreme conditions as described by Mike you could get a failure. But if you live where the soil doesn't freeze, the conduit is the only way to go.

This is 3/4-inch PVC electrical conduit. The 90-degree fitting at the tree will connect to an additional piece of conduit that extends up into a new 4x4 waterproof box. The conduit is in a shallow trench about 6 inches deep. Be sure to follow the National Electric Code when installing yours. Note that local inspectors can modify some codes. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

The post Underground Wire Short appeared first on Ask the Builder.

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Best DIY  Home Plumbing Projects With Tips In 2019

Caulk a Tub

What You'll Need: A tube of caulk, plastic razor, mineral spirits, fine-threaded rag, painter's cassette, Magic Eraser or comparable cleaning pad, scissors  What It'll Cost: $5 to more than $30, based on how big the job and which provides You Have to buy new  Everything You Can SaveUpwards of $100, based on how big the project   Long It'll Take: 60   The way to Do It: This job is easier than replacing a drain flange.  It the bathroom repair project I handled, long before I had an ounce of.  I guarantee you can do it all you need is some patience and a steady hand.  Here's how to do it, adapted from This Old House:  Buy silicone or acrylic latex caulk.  The former is more difficult to work with, but lasts longer; the latter is a lot easier to work with, but shorter-lived. Use a plastic wig (not a regular razor blade) to cut off the old caulk.  Remove lingering chunks using a sterile pad or Magic Eraser, then finish the job using a fine rag soaked in mineral oil. Follow the instructions on your own caulking tube.  You need the tip to cut on .  Lay down painter's tape on either side of the joint. Use a rag to smooth the newly caulk in a fluid movement.  Wipe away excess caulk as you go, taking good care to leave behind a program. Carefully remove the tape of the painter  without bothering the caulk.  Repeat the procedure that is smoothing. Wait for the caulk to heal before using the tub -- 24 hours, ideally.

With rented or borrowed gear, your DIY spirit, and repeated how-to movie viewings, you can tackle these house plumbing replacement and repair projects by yourself.

Install an Automatic Dishwasher

Everything You'll Need: Your new dishwasher, a Philips head screwdriver, an adjustable wrench or pliers, electrical tape, suitably sized screws, nuts, and the dishwasher 90 meeting (see your dishwasher's directions for specific requirements)  What It'll Cost: $200 for a basic, entry-level dishwasher to more than $1,000 to get a model  What You Can Save: $100 to more than $500, depending on the complexity of the job  and what your plumber charges   Much Time It'll Require: 90   How to Do It: Installing a dishwasher is amazingly straightforward.  There are that excursion would-be DIYers upward: the weight and the possibility of working with electrical wiring of the dishwasher .  If you're game, here's exactly what you need to do (adapted from DIY Network's tutorial):  Turn your house the power of  off in the breaker. Turn off the water at the sink, even if at all possible.  Otherwise, turn the water off in the primary line. Just take the dishwasher from the box and inspect against the included schematic sheet.  Confirm that everything is in the right place and everything that the manufacturer says is included in the kit is. Uncap the dishwasher of your home  drain hook and line to your dishwasherthe drain outlet of . Crimp the metallic clamp (included) around the drain line and thread through the hole to your sink compartment. Position the dishwasher in its housing compartment.  Adjust its leg elevation with an adjustable wrench. Fasten the dishwasher into the countertop using appropriately sized screws (probably provided in the kit). Attach the dishwasher's wiring into the local power inlet (like colors together). Screw on the cable nuts and pay with tape. Position the ground cable.  Consult the instructions to ensure you  of the manufacturer 've done this correctly. Hook the dishwasher's supply line to the dishwasher 90 (a exceptional fresh water connection that you'll want to purchase separately) and twist. Attach into the sink drain. Turn on power and the water.  Test a load and repeat those steps as necessary.  Caution: This job requires some work that is mild.  If the idea of manipulating wiring makes you uneasy, in spite of your house 's power off, save this one for the professionals.

Fix a Toilet

Everything You'll Need: Pliers, adjustable wrench, wire cutters, fresh flapper (optional), new float (optional), new fill valve (optional), vinegar or mineral spirits, toothbrush  What It'll Price: Up to $25, based upon supplies and the equipment needed   Everything You Could Save: Upwards of $100, based on the nature of the project   Much Time It Take: 10 to 60  minutes   The way to Do It: Should you blessed, repairing your toilet that is working will cost nothing and take only a couple of minutes of your time.  You may have an hours-long process of trial and error punctuated by successive trips to the hardware store if you not so lucky.  Here's how to address common issues that can cause your bathroom to operate, adapted from WikiHow:  Flapper Issues: Faulty flappers are responsible for many, if not most, running toilets.  First, turn off the water to the bathroom (locally if possible) and flush.   Remove the lid and inspect the valve.  When it warped or deteriorated, it's done for; go to the shop, purchase a new one, and install it in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer .  When it is not forming a tight seal since the string attaching it to the flush lever is too short or long, fix the chain so (using wire cutters to shorten the string if needed ).  If mineral buildup appears to be the culprit, eliminate the flapper and submerge it in vinegar or mineral spirits for half an hour or longer to dissolve the residue.  Scrub replace and clean with a toothbrush. Float Problems: The second most probable cause is that a float.  Floats come in two flavors: cup and chunk floats floats. In any scenario, an float might bring about higher-than-normal water levels, which encourage running.  Check the toilet's overflow tube -- your water level is high whether it 's taking on water.  Use pliers to turn the controller of your float  until the water level stabilizes at least an inch below the overflow tube.  Monitor the water levels frequently and fix. Fill Valve Problems: This is the most vexing and costly of those three issues.  Shut off the bathroom 's water, flush, and then disconnect the service line (you'll want pliers or an adjustable wrench).  Dry the inside of the tank with a sponge or rag.   Remove along with your adjustable wrench, bring it and buy a suitable replacement.  Follow the instructions of the manufacturer .  Flush to check.

Change a Shower Head

What You'll Need: A brand new shower head, a wrench or pair of pliers, Teflon tape, rust/lime remover or mineral spirits   What It'll Price: $5 to $7 for a basic chrome shower head; upwards of $40 to get a high-end model (a Walmart)  What You Can Save: $45 to well over $100 (a Angie's List)  Much Time It'll Require: 15 to Half an Hour   How to Do It: Shower minds can be fixed, handheld, or both.  However attention to detail is important in all 3 cases, none is very difficult or time-consuming to install.  For replacing a shower head, the basic procedure is:  Loosen the old head having pliers or an adjustable wrench and discard. Use a lubricant solution, for example CLR, to remove other debris, calcification, and rust .  Dry the arm, particularly round the threads. Apply Teflon tape to the threads and then press to form a snug bind. Hand-screw the shower head to the threads. Finish tightening with an adjustable wrench or pliers. Turn on the water and check for leaks. Tighten reapply or farther Teflon tape, if leaks are found.  To put in a hybrid head with handheld and fixed components, you will need to screw into an extra bit -- the diverter that regulates water flow between the two heads.  The approach is slightly more time-consuming, and you will have to refer to the manufacturer's installation instructions to make certain that you're connecting the diverter correctly, but it's not an order of magnitude more complicated.

Replace Faucet Fixtures

What You'll Need: Your faucet meeting, plumber's putty or silicone, a basin wrench (optional), mineral spirits, hex wrench (probably included in the faucet assembly)  What's 'll Cost: $30 to $40 for a basic chrome faucet; up of $400 for a high-end version (per Home Depot)  What You Can Save: $60 to more than $500 (per HomeAdvisor)  Much Time It Require: 60 to 90 minutes   How to Do It: Replacing a faucet isn't as hard as it sounds.  This explainer assumes you're not replacing the sink, only the actual faucet assembly.  It's adapted from the how-to of this Lowe :   Close to the hot and cold valves.  If the sink does not have any valves, switch off the main valve of your home . Open the cold and hot taps to drain any residual water in the lines. Unscrew the water lines manually or with a basin wrench. Disconnect the elevator pole (the piece that opens and closes the drain). Remove at the base of the faucet. Manually unscrew the plastic slide nut onto the P-trap (the bend in the drain ) and disconnect the drain flange. Sink holes and use mineral spirits or rust remover to wash the drain around. Put in a gasket at the bottom of the new faucet, if not already done. Insert the faucet into the sink holes.  Tighten the nuts. If not already done, set up the faucet handles and tighten with a hex wrench (usually provided). Screw from the drain nut and fit tightly with the bottom gasket (push or twist in). Apply plumber's putty to the drain flange and screw on over the drain body.   Make sure the flange hole faces backward. Further tighten the nuts and gasket. Install and test the drain rod assembly. Reconnect the distribution lines and operate the faucet.  Check for leaks and retighten in the whole assembly or reinstall necessary.  Your new faucet should include installation instructions.  (How detailed they'll be is another matter.)  Where these instructions and those provided by the producer conflict, check with the latter.  Caution: Faucets come in many shapes and dimensions.  When possible, have your faucet meeting handy once you shop for your faucet.  Purchasing the replacement will save you aggravation and time.

Last Year Top 5 Most Purchased Products in Teknostore

In this article, we look at the past year and look at the 5 most preferred products on Teknostore.

We have left a year behind and entered 2019. In the meantime, certain trends and technological developments took place. As Teknostore team, we endeavored to respond to all kinds of needs during the year as a result of these developments.

In this news we will look at your favorite products in Teknostore last year. We would like to thank you for choosing the Teknostore for a year and a year before we went to our list of different products from virtual reality glasses to headphones.

Note: You can reach Teknostore pages of the products by clicking on the headlines

JUO Sports Bass Music Player Bluetooth Headset

JUO headphones, which came to the aid of music listeners last year, have a different feature. With the built-in music player, you can listen to music without connecting the headset to a phone by inserting an SD card. Thanks to its bass-like structure, it doesn't get a high-pitched sound like in-ear headphones, but with four hours of battery life, you'll be able to listen to music continuously throughout the day. The most popular headset of the 2018 JUO Sports Bass Music Player is the Teknostore price of the Bluetooth Headset with a price of 79,90 TL.

Bix Ultra Powered Micro USB Charging Cable for Android

The charging cable, which is designed for the burning of the cables, is designed to withstand the break, break and bend conditions. With a high data transfer speed, you can charge your phone and use it to connect your phone to the computer. One-meter-long Bix Ultra-Powered Micro USB Charging Cable for Android can be found in the Teknostore store at £ 24.90

Xiaomi Mi Wifi Repeater Pro Signal Booster

In some houses, there is a distant corner of the modern house, so you can have problems with the connection. Launched to eliminate this problem, Xiaomi offers the Xiaomi Mi Wifi Repeater Pro Signal Booster with a powerful link all over your home. Signal booster is a must for multi-storey houses. Click on the headline to get the device. You can get more information by clicking the title.

VR BOX 2.0 Virtual Reality Goggle

The virtual reality goggle, which has recently become a kind of need with the increase of virtual reality games and films, was one of your favorite products last year. The product, which attracts attention with its reasonable price compared to its competitors in the market, provides comfort with its light and durable material and it does not cause any discomfort on your face with its special pads. You can buy VR BOX 2.0 Virtual Reality Goggle at Teknostore with discounted price of 24.90 TL.

Xiaomi Mi Band 3 Smart Wristband

Xiaomi welcomes us on the last product of our list. The smartphone is the product of the Mi Band 3, OLED display as well as a 20-day battery life with a truly successful performance. At the same time, the water-resistant device's functions include standard features such as pulse measurement, sleep monitoring, weather, calorie meter and pedometer as well as standard features such as search and message display. The Xiaomi Mi Band 3 Smart Bracelet is available from Teknostore. The current price of the product worth TL 239,90 is TL 179,90.

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            4 TV Box Suggestions That Will Make Your Televisions Smart You Can Find in Teknostore              

We have reached the end of our list with Xiaomi. Although we have listed five of the best-selling products of last year, if you want to see other best-selling products, you can click on the link to find the best sellers part of Teknostore's store.

            Udemy Course That You Can Learn Complete Java to Start Programming is £ 24.99 Instead of 409 TL                                                                                                                       

                                                                                                                                                                                          The post Last Year Top 5 Most Purchased Products in Teknostore appeared first on No.1 Geek Fun.

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Last Year Top 5 Most Purchased Products in Teknostore