This season at Paris Fashion week, The Row challenged the quo by deciding not to prioritize the need to view art through a limited lens -- that of which are attached to the back of our phones. The Olsen twins' dignified brand only allowed their audience to be armed with pen and notepad. Once considered all an editor, writer, or critic needed to effectively document the highs and lows of a runway presentation, The Row was met with as much praise as they were criticism for foundational requirement. Whoever said the pen was mightier than the sword clearly never owned an iPhone.
Making an entrance. JISOO, our inimitable Dior global ambassador, leads the #StarsinDior discovering Maria Grazia Chiuri's new #DiorAW24 collection on.dior.com/aw2024-25, clad in an all-black #DiorFall24 look.
Rocha is the most exciting mind on the runways this season, in my opinion. Her collection is both incredibly stimulating yet peaceful in colour. Sheer garments leave little to imagine but are immediately followed by blooming formless capes in an epic contrast. This is the mastery of Rocha.
Image source: vogue.com
In her titular AW24 collection, Rocha presented a variety of monochrome black looks- but to assume they were bland and simple is incorrect. The textures alone are feast for the eyes, not even mentioning the silhouettes. Black satin combined with delicate lace tights and oversized bows (in contingency with trends across shows this season) create a separate layer of resplendence under the first initial impression.
This isn’t even to mention the rest of the collection which showcased a plethora of luxurious and high quality garments. Rocha devises a whole new meaning to the term ‘naked dressing’ including a Gautier-inspired nude bodysuit and structured corset to sharply mirror the looks with no form restriction at all. This is what makes the collection so intriguing. It is a blend of airy and dense; dark and light; fitted and flowing. Now it isn’t easy to pull of such juxtapositions but Rocha set the bar.
Yet when considering the inspiration for this collection it becomes starkly clear as to why these garments are so juxtaposed. In an interview with Vogue, Rocha explained how this collection was ‘the wake’ and the finale of her triad of shows (ss24 and the collaboration with Gautier). This allowed Rocha to draw inspiration from Victorian mourning clothes which is uncanny in the monochrome-noir segment but also in the almost erotic aura. This collection was spilling with lace and sheer- combined with its victorian ancestry, it would be no surprise if there wasn’t a more lusterous undertone.
Finally, let’s talk detail:
Even down to embellishments- is there anything Rocha can’t do? It’s the fine details in this collection which really draw your eye, creating an overall sense of expense and thoughtfulness. Not to mension the binding in the under-bust corset pieces pictured here is just unimaginable in quality.
This has got to be one of my favourite collections from the autumn/ winter season. Just the unique air and immeasurable quality. I am so excited to see where Rocha heads next. Both as a brand and a creative mind.