Tumgik
#ascher silk
chicinsilk · 4 months
Text
Tumblr media
"Ligne Muguet"
Christian Dior Haute Couture Collection Spring/Summer 1954. Suzy Parker wears an afternoon ensemble consisting of a shantung dress from Abraham, and a lightweight printed silk coat from Ascher. The little headband matches the dress. Photo Henry Clarke. Vogue Paris April 1954.
Christian Dior Collection Haute Couture Printemps/Été 1954. Suzy Parker porte un ensemble d'après-midi composé d'une robe en shantung d'Abraham, et d'un manteau léger en soie imprimée d'Ascher. Le petit serre-tête est assorti à la robe. Photo Henry Clarke. Vogue Paris avril 1954.
15 notes · View notes
badassbutterfly1987 · 2 years
Text
Sapphic September prompts
Referring to this challenge: X
1. blade: Lily/Meryl
2. quest: Aurora/Elaine
6. princess: Molly/Inari
9. Bianca/Rachel (aka Paula)
15. wilderness: Andi/Marci
16. tower: Margaret/Lea
17. royalty: Luccio/Lara
18. silk: Molly/Justine
20. siren: Maeve/Jenny
21. fairy circle: Margaret/Lea
26. swan: Hannah Ascher/Helen Beckitt
27. vows: Mab/Lea
28. key: Elaine/Anna Valmont
5 notes · View notes
suzylwade · 3 years
Photo
Tumblr media
He’s A Bébé, He’s A Bébé Christian Bérard (1902-1949) was born in Paris in 1902, the son of André Bérard, the official architect of the City of Paris. His mother died from Tuberculosis when Bérard was a young child. His father married his secretary. Neither was kind to the child. As a boy he made sketches of the ballet and circus performances that saw with his parents. He copied the drawings from his mother’s fashion magazines. Bérard studied at ‘Academic Ranson’ under Edouard Vuillard and Maurice Dennis. His first gallery show was in 1925. Bérard’s painting style and medium changed many times, from whimsical sketches too thickly plastered oil portraits. Because of this and the wide range of projects he undertook - silk scarves for the firm of ‘Ascher Silks London’, rug design, murals and screens and the illustrations for ‘Vogue’, ‘Harper’s Bazaar’, ‘Art et Style’, ‘F’ormes et Coleurs’ and ‘Style en France’ - critics dismissed his fine art. But Bérard’s fine art was made with great skill and talent. When he painted, all jokes and silliness flew out of the window - he worked with great concentration and seriousness. Bérard’s early ‘neo-humanist’ work was collected, notably, by the American novelist, poet, playwright and collector Gertrude Stein (1874-1946). The rest of the time Bérard was the life and soul of any party in Paris. And he went out a lot. Witty, charming and charismatic, he was spontaneous and fun - and also kind. He was a favourite of the left bank of Paris in the 20s and 30s, the poets, the writers, the painters and thinkers, quick to dress up or do a little dance. He was also openly gay. His long term partner was Boris Kochno, a librettist with the ‘Ballet Russe’. (at Paris, France) https://www.instagram.com/p/CVhxiJXo1Ff/?utm_medium=tumblr
6 notes · View notes
psikonauti · 5 years
Photo
Tumblr media
Christian Bérard (French,1902 –1949)
Scarf designed for Ascher Silks, London
137 notes · View notes
quotesuniteposts · 3 years
Link
I just added this listing on Poshmark: Sold Vintage Zika Ascher silk scarf.
0 notes
schmidtclothingcom · 4 years
Link
When International Monetary Fund Managing Director Christine Lagarde goes to the G8 summit in June, she may well be wearing a scarf – a fashion accessory that she’s become known for, and one that’s been drawing more and more attention. In fact, the BBC recently identified scarves as a “new power symbol” for women.
True, just as some men choose amusing neckties to enliven monochrome suits, many women who work in an atmosphere that requires conservative business apparel will wear scarves to add a fillip of color and distinction.
But the trend is anything but “new.” In looking at the history of scarves in the 19th and 20th centuries, it’s clear that the allure and power of scarves has always existed – and persists.
A single piece of cloth
The scarf is the most simple form of adornment: a single piece of cloth. For this reason, it’s one of the most versatile clothing accessories, used for centuries across a variety of cultures, for a range of purposes.
Many Muslim women wear headscarves for modesty, while ladies of a certain age favor scarves with a triangular fold to protect expensive or elaborate coifs.
Tumblr media
Votes for Women: the scarf as a political statement. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
A scarf can be a political statement, and can denote a wearer’s affiliation or beliefs. Early 20th-century crusaders for women’s rights used their clothing to promote their cause, wearing scarves in the movement’s colors: white, green and purple.
During World War II, scarves expressed nationalist sentiments. The British firm Jacqmar produced designs with propaganda-themed slogans. One featured the phrase “Shoulder to Shoulder” on a map of England emblazoned with British and American symbols. Another design mimicked a wall covered with posters urging citizens to “Lend to Defend” and “Save for Victory.”
An elegant fashion
But in Western culture, the scarf is most prominently known for its use as a fashion accessory, one that first gained widespread popularity in the 19th century.
Tumblr media
The fichu was a predecessor to the scarf. Wikimedia Commons
The fichu is a typical 18th- and 19th-century style that can be seen as the forerunner of modern scarves. A piece of fabric worn lightly draped on the upper chest and usually knotted in front, it provided modest covering but was also an opportunity to add an especially fine textile – sometimes lace edged or embroidered – to an ensemble.
Lightweight, finely woven silk and cashmere shawls from India were one of the first fashionable scarf styles. Empress Joséphine – the first wife of Napoleon – had an extensive collection (thanks to her husband’s travels), and the style persisted through much of the 19th century, spawning cheaper imitations fabricated in other parts of Europe, notably France and Paisley, Scotland.
Status symbols
Like much of high fashion, scarves can signal one’s status, and limited edition scarves – often only made available to favored customers – can act as specific indicators for those in the know.
For example, fashion houses send scarves, often during the holidays, as thank-yous to loyal clients. Those produced by Parisian couturiers during the 1950s were especially chic, often designed with sketches of the maison; others displayed printed patterns in the whimsical, painterly style of the era.
Tumblr media
The House of Dior would present scarves to its regular customers as a token of gratitude. © 2000–2015 The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Gift of Mrs. Michael Blankfort, in memory of her mother, Mrs. William Constable Breed, 1976
And from the 1950s into the 1970s, the famed Manhattan eating and drinking establishment 21 produced a series of annual scarves and sent them to favorite “regulars.”
The restaurant’s owners commissioned well-known designers, and each year’s scarf design referred to some aspect of the restaurant – its famous façade, the collection of jockey statues outside or the number 21.
Actress Lauren Bacall, an esteemed regular, donated her 21 scarves to the Museum at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, where other pieces from her wardrobe were recently exhibited.
A canvas for experimentation
As a discrete space, a scarf presents an opportunity for experimentation often not available in other realms of dress that are determined – and restricted – by the shape of the body.
In London in the 1940s, Lida and Zika Ascher initiated their “Artist Squares” project, enlisting an international roster of prominent artists to design large scarves, a group that included Henri Matisse, Jean Cocteau and Henry Moore.
The Artist Squares were sold in major department stores and also exhibited – framed, like paintings – at London’s Lefevre Gallery.
To celebrate her new couture salon in 1935, the designer Elsa Schiaparelli made a collage of her press clippings and had it printed as fabric for scarves and other accessories, turning black and white type into a striking motif.
A scarf by the American designer Vera offers another variation on lettering as ornament, presenting the titles of international newspapers, each in its distinctive typeface, on a vivid yellow background.
Tumblr media
A scarf by Vera, featuring newspaper typeface. © 2000–2015 The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Gift of Heather B. Babb, 1996
Hermès: The crème de la crème
Certain labels are particularly associated with high style in scarves. Ferragamo, Fendi and Gucci – all originally esteemed leather goods houses – now produce desirable scarves.
But for prestige and polish, Hermès represents the pinnacle of scarf culture. Several aspects of its business have contributed to the company’s reputation. Founded in 1837 as a supplier of equestrian supplies, Hermès began offering scarves, called carrés, in 1937.
Their focus on exclusivity has encouraged an almost fetishistic loyalty among customers, many of whom could more properly be termed “collectors.” Limiting the number of designs they offer each season has maintained Hermès’ mystique. The company’s focus on craftsmanship helps justify their reputation and high prices; Hermès takes pride in the impressive number of colors in each design, the hand-printing process and the fineness of their silk, positioning their output as artisanal creations.
A man demonstrates the intricate screen printing process of a Hermès scarf.
While not at the level of Hermès, the American accessories company Echo, founded in 1923, also has a loyal following. The firm pinpointed the essence of the scarf with their memorable ad campaign “The Echo of an Interesting Woman,” introduced in the 1970s.
In contemporary fashion, scarves continue to serve the same functions as those earlier fine linen fichus and paisley shawls; they denote connoisseurship and sophistication.
It’s no surprise, then, that sociologist and image consultant Anna Akbari makes “Put on a scarf” the first entry on her current list of “5 Simple Ways To Hack Your Image,” recognizing their potential for instant uplift and an infusion of individuality.
by Beth Daley
licensed from theconversation.com
Written by Becky Heldmen for Schmidt Clothing.
0 notes
Text
HISTORY OF SCARVES
Tumblr media
OUR COMPLETE GUIDETHE ORIGINSCASHMERE SHAWLSWAR DUTYTHE EMERGENCE OF SCARVES AS ACCESSORIESDEVELOPMENT OF SYNTHETICSSCARVES AS A PROPAGANDA TOOLPOST WAR SCARVESSILK SCARVES AS A GLAMOUR ACCESSORYSCARVES AS A LUXURY ACCESSORYA DECLINE IN POPULARITY IN THE 90'S REDISCOVERING AND REIMAGINING CLASSIC DESIGNSCASHMERE SCARVESADAPTING STYLES TO MODERN LIFERECENT TRENDSFINAL THOUGHTS Men's Scarves & Ancient RomeMen's Scarves & The Croatian MilitaryMen's Scarves & French FashionThe Battle of Steenkerque:  Beginning of the Modern NecktieMen's Scarves & BeethovenMen's Scarves & Victorian EnglandMen's Scarves In Modern War And AviationIn Summary – The Scarf & History
HISTORY OF SCARVES
As a symbol of femininity, the scarf is the ultimate chic fashion accessory oozing sophistication and elegance. As a garment worn for practical purposes, a scarf can provide the wearer warmth or keep them cool. The scarf comes in a many a shape and form demonstrating its ubiquity and ability to blend into the wardrobes of undoubtedly every woman over the past few decades.
The origins of the scarf trickle back to Ancient Egypt, precisely to Queen Nefertiti, who was believed to have worn a woven wrapped scarf under an extravagant jewelled headpiece. Whilst scarves are more often than not associated with the female wardrobe nowadays, they have been worn by men and women for many centuries. In Ancient Rome, men wore them as ‘sweat cloths’ used to keep cool and dry sweat.
In the Far East, scarves were worn by military personnel to show rank. Scarves with numerous designs, worn in various ways can be viewed on the terracotta army soldiers, which were buried away more than 200 years BC. It is even said that on his return from Egypt, Napoleon Bonaparte gifted his wife Josephine be Beauharnais a pashmina scarf. Whilst she was cynical at first about this exotic gift, she is noted to have collected over 400 scarfs over the next 3 years adding up to a total of around £80,000.
It is easy to believe that the scarf was an overnight success, however the evolution of the scarf from a plain practical accessory to a trendy must wear item most definitely did not happen overnight.
Cashmere shawls became the epitome of high fashion in the 19th century. The famously Paisley pattern was established during this time as it was the first town to manufacture cashmere ‘Paisley’ shawls similar to those brought back by Bonaparte.
The town was home to 7000 weavers and the shawls were so popular that even Queen Victoria purchased a shawl in 1842. In the latter half of the century, the popularity of shawls declined as new trends emerged. Women's wardrobes developed so that it became more and more impractical to wear a shawl draped over one's shoulders.
During the First World War, knitting became more than just a hobby for women, children and even men all over the world. It was considered patriotic war duty. Tons of socks, sweaters and scarves were produced to send to servicemen to keep them warm and dry in wartime conditions.
Whilst knitting nowadays is often considered an old-fashioned hobby, knitting saved the lives of many servicemen during the war. Knitted goods were produced by the ton and shipped out to troops who were battling harsh, wet and cold conditions not only in the trenches but also in the air too.
In addition to knitted scarves, pilots would also wear white silk scarves whilst flying as the soft, supple fabric provided protection from neck chafing. During the First World War, silk played a very important role in military operations. Silk bags were used to carry gunpowder charges for weapons as silk left no residue when burnt. After the war, this surplus silk was made into garments, scarves, and furnishings.
With the emergence of silk in the west, manufacturing methods were improving and many clothing brands started producing silk accessories. Liberty Of London started producing light silk scarves that became extremely popular during the post-war years. Their energetic prints provided a much-needed tonic to the gloom that was life on the home front in the early years after the war.
Similarly, in 1937 French fashion house Hermès started importing Chinese silk to be woven into luxurious square scarves. Raw silk imported from China was especially strong and more durable. Designs reflected the Equestrian background that was deeply rooted in the history of Hermès and these designs still prove to be the most popular nowadays. The classic Hermès touches which have become synonymous with the brand such hand-rolled edges, hand-painted details and its 90cm x 90cm were all established at this early stage.
Silk scarves, both now and then, are a luxury and can be unaffordable for many women. With the invention of rayon in the 1930s, also known as viscose, this slippery fibre was a semi-synthetic material that was named ‘artificial silk’. It could mimic all the properties of silk but it was a fraction of the price.
The scarf trend continued booming as it allowed more and more women to dress in the latest fashions. However, with the outbreak of the Second World War, wardrobes had to become practical and sensible above all else. Many women were drafted in to take over jobs that were ordinarily done by men. From working in weapons manufacturing factories to flying military planes, the demands of ‘war work’ came first.
Safety concerns within factories meant that women operating machinery had to make sure any long hair was clearly swept away. This meant that women wore headscarves as a matter of necessity rather than an accessory. As a result of clothes rationing throughout the Second World War, the colour palette became dull and sullen as materials were limited to cotton and linen, which were cheaper and more accessible.
Despite the restraints of the war, notable British scarf brand Jacqmar of London continued producing scarves with imaginative propaganda themes from 1940 -1945. Jacqmar started out supplying silk to couture fashion houses around the world but soon noticed a lot of cut-offs that were produced and as a result, they started producing silk scarves, which became extremely popular during the course of the war. Fabric supplies were often short during this time, therefore Jacqmar would use offcuts from parachute silk as well as rayon and linen.
Designs for scarves were based around 3 central themes: military, allied forces and the home front. These were especially popular amongst young lovers and nowadays have become treasured collector's items. Even the British Museum in London owns several rare Jacqmar scarves in their war costume collection. In the post-war period, designs celebrated victory, as one can imagine, and then progressed to more generic patterns such as florals and geometrics.
After the end of the Second World War, the world was craving for more bold and vibrant colours in their wardrobes. Patterned scarves attracted a wide audience during this time. From 1946 – 1955 textile company, Ascher commissioned designs from leading artists around the world. Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso and Henry Moore were among the 42 world-renowned artists who contributed to the Ascher ‘Artists Squares’. The project not only united the art community post-war but also married ideals in both art and fashion making fine art more accessible to the many.
As a form of self-expression, the silk scarf quickly came back into fashion; the material allowed for bright patterns and vivid, sharp details to be printed. Hermès grew in popularity with the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly wearing scarves in movies or parading their chic Hermès scarves throughout New York and Monaco.
Silk scarves gained notoriety and soon became a symbol of glamour, power and independence. In the words of Audrey Hepburn below 'When I wear a silk scarf I never feel so definitely like a woman, a beautiful woman.'
Whilst Audrey liked to wear her scarves tied neatly around her neck, Brigitte Bardot styled her scarf into a statement headband. Grace Kelly wore a Hermès silk scarf on the cover of LIFE magazine in 1956; however, she hit headlines again when she wore a Hermès scarf as an arm sling later on in the same year. Even the Queen, Elizabeth II, was emblazoned on a postage stamp wearing an Hermès scarf.
Designs at this time were light-hearted and captured an optimistic spirit which in turn meant that women could be playful with not only their scarves but also their whole outfit choices. Not only was the headscarf ‘the’ accessory amongst the rich and famous, it also gave them privacy. When styled with the big sunglasses of the 60’s, the pairing acted as a veil for those who endeavoured to keep a level of anonymity.
During this decade, it wasn’t only the fashionable elite that were buying into the luxurious silk scarves. Famous New York restaurant, ’21 Club’ often simply ‘21’, has been frequented by celebrities since the 1930’s. Notable guests include Elizabeth Taylor, John F Kennedy and Ernest Hemingway to name but a few. It is most probably recognised by the 21 jockey sculptures that feature on the façade of the restaurant.
Each Christmas the owners would give away a customised scarf to their regular customers. These designs would change yearly, however, the central theme was always equestrian and jockeys. These have now become iconic in terms of scarf memorabilia as designs were so rare and very much sought after.
Many fashion houses also transferred their signature style onto scarves to encapsulate the feel of the brand. The famous tartan check of Burberry could be worn by women all over the world on a scarf costing less than a fifth of the price of a signature Burberry tan trench coat. This gave luxury fashion brands a dominant global presence but more importantly, it gave women the opportunity to show off their designer purchases.
Designs of the 80’s were bold and confident. Chanel used daring chains, to imitate the chain handles on their handbags, and placed large interlocking CC logos over their scarves. These memorable designs captured the distinctions from brand to brand and allowed women to firmly identify with certain brands aesthetics over others.
With the 90’s approaching and the rise of manufacturing and cheap labour, many silk alternatives grew in popularity. Bright vivid designs could just as easily be printed onto these materials and with less expensive dyes in the process too. As silk is a particularly labour intensive practice, farmers became disillusioned with the product when demand fell.
Silk scarves fell out of favour during the 90s and people flocked to buy accessories that were innovative and striking. This elegant, stylish accessory was no longer the must-have item in the woman’s wardrobe and soon disappeared from the spotlight.
However, technology and transportation boomed in this decade, making travel easier and far more accessible to the majority of the population. As the world opened up so did the fashion industry. Designers took inspiration from all over the world and rediscovered treasures of the past.
Pashmina shawls which were only worn by wealthiest and most well-connected ladies were re-envisioned and transformed into daily lifestyle necessities of the modern-era woman. Rediscovering the sensuous qualities of cashmere wool meant that these scarves were admired for their comfort and practicality over design.
Cashmere scarves and pashminas rose in popularity, as they were undeniably soft, warm and luxurious. They were considered exotic and rare as cashmere was woven from Cashmere goats that inhabit the mountainous regions of Kashmir, India. Their exclusivity attracted a large following that were drawn to its fine, downy texture.
In fact, the name ‘Pashmina’ translates to ‘Soft Gold’ in the Kashmiri language. Traditionally the goats are reared by nomadic tribes inhabiting regions at very high altitudes where temperatures drop to -40c in the winter. For this reason, the Cashmere goat grows a thick undercoat to keep them warm. As temperatures rise into spring, this coat is shed and this is where the wool used to make pashminas is collected.
Many scarves are sold as pashmina’s in tourist markets around the world, but there is an easy trick to test whether the scarf is made from true pashmina wool. If the entire scarf can pass through a ring with a diameter of 1.3cm then you can be sure that it’s a genuine pashmina.
These scarves became popular in the 90s as they could be worn as a shawl wrapped around the shoulders. As fashion became more daring, many styles of clothing became sleeveless or strapless. Shawls allowed women to wear these on-trend styles but also protect their modesty by covering bare arms and chests.
More recently we have seen a shift towards other uses for scarves, new styles demand accessories that adapt to our fast-paced lives. These items need to be flexible and keep up with the ever-changing demands of the fashion industry.
Hermès re-invented the scarf with their Hermès ‘Twilly’ scarf, a long ribbon-like scarf which is named after the ‘twill’ weave pattern used to create its fantastic drape. They look chic when wrapped around the handles of a handbag, giving a touch of personality as well as protecting the bag. These scarves can also be wrapped around wrists to make sleek, stand out bracelets.
As the Twilly is small, it can be used as a headband or used as a ribbon tied around a hat. It can also be used as a hair tie or braided into plaits to add hints of colour and pattern to hair. More recently, we have seen these scarves used as belts either on their own or wrapped around a belt then fastened around the waist.
The multiple ways in which the ‘Twilly’ scarf can be incorporated into the modern woman’s wardrobe had made it one of Hermès’ most successful designs. The Twilly scarf is a truly modern update to the otherwise classic silk scarf.
If we look at recent trends from the catwalk we can see many nods to the timeless look of the silk scarf as well as refreshing new styles. Stella McCartney sent models down her AW17 runway with headscarves reminiscent of the queen on her Scottish country hideaway trips.
Prada opted for chunky knit scarves tightly wrapped like a choker to contrast sleek, tailored garments. More and more we see runways filled with silk bandanas and headbands that exude glamour and substance but are still relatable for both older and younger generations.
Turbans have always existed solely within religious dress for many centuries as a symbol of respect and social status among men. However, ever since Prada paraded rainbow-hued glossy turbans down the runway in 2007 it now comes second nature to many women to wrap a silk scarf around their hair then wrapped into a turban.
Our love affair with scarves is unlikely to end anytime soon. We are enchanted with their multitudes of forms and the possibilities seem endless when it comes to pattern and print. From a blooming floral design to an indulgent woven pashmina, they morph with each season and our relationship with these scarves develop because as well as being a much-adored fashion accessory they also provide comfort, protection and modesty. Whether one is wearing a trendy headscarf as a fashion statement or as a belt, wrist tie or handbag accessory it will forever have a permanent in every woman’s wardrobe.
https://startupfashion.com/fashion-archives-a-look-at-the-history-of-the-scarf/
MORE HISTORY:
It’s safe to say that pretty much everyone has a scarf or two in their closet. This accessory is a staple that comes in a variety of colors, fabrics, and styles-there is a scarf out there for every taste.  Whether you a fashionista showing off a beautiful silk Hermes piece or just trying to keep warm, the scarf has become a timeless symbol of comfort and style.
Early Origins
So how did such a simple accessory become so ubiquitous? In fact, scarves have been worn for a lot longer than you might think. As far back as 1300 B.C to be exact. The very first scarves date all the way back to ancient Egypt, where it was a status symbol that denoted nobility and royalty. Queen Nefertiti was the original trendsetter-she was perhaps one of the first to wear a scarf. She frequently styled a scarf-like fabric behind her iconic cone-shaped headdress.
China was also home to early adopters of the scarf. There, it was originally part of the Chinese military uniform. Dating as far back as 1000 B.C., fringed, rectangular scarves were discovered on sculptures of Chinese soldiers. Scarves would continue to be a part of military dress: another early Chinese iteration of the accessory (around 230 B.C.) was part of the uniform for soldiers serving under Emperor Cheng. These scarves helped to denote military rank. Similarly, Croatian soldiers in the 17th century wore scarves according to rank as well. Those lower on the totem pole wore scarves cut from cotton, while the scarves belonging to officers were made from fine silk.
The next version of the scarf that cropped up was a bit more utilitarian. In ancient Rome around 10 A.D., Romans began using a piece of fabric known as a sudarium, or “sweat cloth,” which is exactly what it sounds like. Those engaging in exercise or strenuous physical labor would often keep a piece of linen around their person in order to keep clean and wipe away sweat. Men wore them so often it became a kind of accessory- tied around the neck, draped over the shoulder, or knotted around the waist.
From around the late 1600’s to early 1700’s, the scarf began taking on a less functional, more “fashion” role in the form of the cravat. In fact this neck-piece, which originated in Paris, was inspired by the neck-wear of the aforementioned Croatian military- the name is an allusion to the original source. Cravats were cut from a long strip of white fabric, typically embellished with embroidery or lace. The accessory was especially popular during parts of the French Revolution, where it grew in size and extravagance, occasionally obscuring the bottom half of the face. During the Revolution, the cravat was sometimes dyed in different colors to demonstrate allegiance to a certain side.
An Early Fashion Statement
From then on, scarves began to make their way into mainstream fashion- for both men and women. For example, Napoleon is said to have had cashmere scarves from India sent to his first wife Josephine. Also around this time, the Third Duke of Krakow supposedly created the first knit scarf. However, the accessory truly became popularized after Queen Victoria’s ascension to the throne in the early 1800’s. She frequently wore glamorous accessories such as silk scarves, which soon became stylish among nobility, as they differentiated them from lower classes.
Speaking of silk scarves, that particular accessory as we know it was first crafted in 1937 by, who else- Thierry Hermes. This was the first truly luxury silk scarf, and differed from anything that had come before it. Hermes’ company purchased raw silk directly from China to be spun into yarn. This was then woven into a high-quality fabric that was twice as strong and much heavier than other scarves of that time. As a final touch, a beautiful image would be expertly hand-printed onto the scarf. These intricate designs required around 43 screens to get beautiful color effects. Hermes’ first printed scarf design featured two women in white wigs playing a game.
Scarves As A Necessity
Soon after, rayon was invented, which was good news for women who otherwise couldn’t afford luxurious but expensive silk scarves. This material made the look much more accessible. In the 1940’s, scarves were worn a variety of different ways for numerous occasions- during the war years they were more of a necessity than a fashion statement. Cotton, linen and wool scarves also came into fashion as other, less frivolous alternatives to silk. Magazines even advised women who didn’t want to spend a lot of money on a new hat to tie their scarves into turbans and snoods. Scarves were even used as a safety measure- women working in factories had to cover their hair to prevent it from being caught in machinery.
A Staple of Fashion
From then on, scarves remained a staple accessory for both fashion and function. From 1970’s head wraps to today’s hipster neck-wear, scarves have cemented their place in the fashion world.
https://www.pashminapassion.com.au/pashmina/the-historical-and-cultural-significance-of-scarves-and-shawls/
The historical and cultural significance of scarves and shawls
Scarves and shawls are used across cultures all over the world, and it is not something utilized only during the winters, or extreme summers. They have been around for centuries are have a history far beyond being a fashion accessory! The historical and cultural significance of scarves and shawls is an quite an interesting read.
In cold climates, a thick knitted scarf, often made of wool, is tied around the neck to keep warm. This is usually accompanied by a warm hat and heavy coat.
In drier, dustier warm climates, or in environments where there are many airborne contaminants, a thin headscarf, kerchief, or bandanna is often worn over the eyes and nose and mouth to keep the hair clean. Over time, this custom has evolved into a fashionable item in many cultures, particularly among women. The cravat, an ancestor of the necktie and bow tie, evolved from scarves of this sort in Croatia[citation needed].
Religions such as Judaism under Halakhah (Jewish Law) promote modest dress code among women. Married Jewish women wear a tichel to cover their hair. The Tallit is commonly worn by Jewish men especially for prayers, which they wrap around their head to recite the blessing of the Tallit.
Young Sikh boys, and sometimes girls often wear a bandanna to cover their hair, before moving on to the turban. Older Sikhs may wear them as an under-turban.
Islam promotes modest dress among men and women. Many Muslim women wear a headscarf, often known as a hijab and in Quranic Arabic as the khimar. The Keffiyeh is commonly used by Muslim men.
Additionally, several Christian denominations include a scarf known as a Stole as part of their liturgical vestments.
Silk scarfs were used by pilots of early aircraft in order to keep oily smoke from the exhaust out of their mouths while flying. Silk Scarfs were worn by pilots of closed cockpit aircraft to prevent neck chafing; especially fighter pilots, who were constantly turning their heads from side to side watching for enemy aircraft. Today, military flight crews wear scarfs imprinted with unit insignia and emblems not for functional reasons but instead for esprit-de-corps and heritage.
In ancient times, the practice of donning a scarf or a wrap was mostly attributed to perspiration, the Romans called it “sudarium” which literally meant sweat cloth. These cloth items were used to wipe the sweat on the face and neck, and were initially worn by men. Also, according to historians, during the rule of Chinese emperor Cheng, scarves were made of cloth and were used in order to identify the officers and the ranks of the Chinese warriors. But then with the passage of time women too began to use them, and today it is a completely new avatar.
Scarves and shawls are now made from the finest materials available and are much sought after by men and women across the world. It has in fact moved up leaps and bounds in the social ladder and today stands as an expression of love and respect which is often exchanged as a gift.
So next time you wrap a beautiful Pashmina Scarf or Shawl around your neck or shoulders you will know you are not just being fashionable but donning an accessory that has had many practical uses over the centuries and serves a purpose for many cultures.
https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2016/05/different-types-scarf-wearing-techniques.html
Different types of scarves:
Different materials:
Alpaca: for cold autumn winter days: Alpaca scarves are made from wool of the alpaca, which is a lustrous and silky natural fiber, warmer and softer.
Cashmere: for cold autumn winter days: This soft, luxurious fabric is made from the wool of the Cashmere goat. It is light in weight and, when handled with care, becomes softer with time.
Cotton: for hot spring summer days: Classic and easy, cotton is staple for its ability to be laundered and its durability. It’s a cool fabric, perfect for summer wear.
Jersey: For cold autumn winter days: This stretchy, soft cotton is breathable and light-weight. Jersey is an ideal pallet for beading, studding, sequins, and other embellishment.
Linen: For hot spring summer days: Promoted for its coolness, linen is often considered the most breathable fabric of the bunch. It is made from the fibres of the flax plant.
Pashmina: For cold autumn winter days: Pashmina refers to a type of shawl or scarf made from the cashmere wool of the pashmina goat.
Satin: For cold autumn winter days: Satin is a glossy, soft fabric most often made from silk or polyester. Satin comes in several forms or weaves, which may vary in shine, thickness, flexibility, and weight.
Silk: For hot spring summer days: Silk is a natural protein fibre obtained from the larvae cocoons of the mulberry silkworm. It can be shiny or matte in lustre, and is especially delicate.
Wool: For cold autumn winter days: Wool comes from the fleece of sheep and other animals. It’s very warm, durable, and with proper care should last you for years.
Shapes & Styles
2. Neck
Whether worn bandana-style, tied into knot, or looped into a feminine bow, neck scarves are sweeping Hollywood, runways, and city streets with gusto this season. Channel your inner Mad Men, classic girly-girl, or country club queen in one of our signature neck scarves! We carry styles perfect for a men's neck scarf as well as neck scarves for women. Try cute patterns like dots or floral or go abstract with stripes and shapes.
3. Ponchos
Nothing says posh like a poncho! Whether lined with fur, adorned with embellishments, or in sophisticated blacks, tans, and greys, our capes and ponchos add the perfect amount of pizazz to a classic gal’s wardrobe. Once you’re wrapped up in these stylish outfit additions, you’ll be the cat’s meow at your next soiree.
4. Head
Hair and head accessories have been a staple for fashion since the first bobby pin was invented. Whether you want to have that 50's ponytail flair or are looking for that gypsy, tousled hair look, head scarves can add exciting style to your daily fashion. Didn't have time to wash your hair? No problem! Sport a head scarf instead! Wear the scarf as a head band, bandana, or a wrap. A skinny scarf or square scarf works great for this trend that wears well in any season. You can even use a silk head scarf at night to help keep curls in place!
5. Infinity
The infinity scarf is like our love for scarves: it never ends. Instead, it goes on for forever in an ever-so dashing, flashy, and comfy-cozy way. A wool infinity scarf will keep you warm while bringing bold colors to your winter outfits, but there are infinity scarves that are perfect for any season. A circular scarf doesn't let its physical shape limit its stylish possibilities; whether you prefer a sleek, simple loop scarf or one bursting with bright, glittering detail, we have infinity scarves for women that you'll love! And before you know it, you'll find yourself wrapped up and feeling fabulous without ever having to tie a knot.
6. Pashmina
If there were a master list of the must-haves for every woman’s wardrobe, the classic pashmina would be at the top. The pashmina is timeless, and with its infinity of uses, you’ll find yourself wearing it as a warm shawl, as a trendy solid colour statement piece, and a million-and-two other scarf-tying ways. From bold prints to demure silvers, you can do no wrong with a pashmina. Find a gorgeous cheap pashmina to add to your wardrobe.
7. Square
There’s nothing square about square scarves; the moment it’s tied, looped or knotted around your dainty neck, it makes a bold style-statement. Whether you’re sporting one in chevron, hearts, abstract shapes, leopard print, or even a festive holiday neckerchief, square head scarves will surely turn heads. If you’re loving their silky-smooth feel, check out our full collection of square silk scarves.
8. Shemagh Scarves
Shemagh scarves, otherwise known as keffiyeh scarves, are a square cotton type traditionally worn by Arabs. These are worn around the neck or the head to protect from the sun and dust. This scarf is known for its white checkered weave that is combined with a dark colour.
9. Bandana
A bandana scarf is a piece of cloth in the shape of a triangle or a square that is folded into a triangle. These are often made of cotton and are popularly donned by cowboys and associated with western wear. Bandana scarves can be worn on the head, neck, and as a ponytail wrap. They may also come in silk as well.
Wraps
Shawls
https://www.realmenrealstyle.com/mens-scarves-history/
MENS HISTORY WITH THE SCARF
You're taking part in a manly 2,200 year-old tradition.
A tradition that many of history's greatest warriors, statesmen, and artists partook in.That's right – the scarf (or variations such as the necktie and cravat) have been in our wardrobes for over two millenia.Let's start at the beginning. Men's Scarves & Ancient China The first men's neckwear we have solid historical evidence for was worn by Chinese soldiers in the 3rd century B.C.E.  The terracotta soldiers buried with Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of unified China, can still be seen wearing tied neck scarves.  These were used to denote rank in a form of early military insignia. The terracotta soldiers buried with Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of unified China, can still be seen wearing tied neck scarves.  These were used to denote rank in a form of early military insignia. Chinese art from still earlier includes depictions of both men and women wearing fringed, rectangular pieces of cloth similar to scarves, dating back as early as 1000 B.C.E.
A band of linen cloth known as a “sudarium” was part of a standard gentleman's costume in the late Roman empire. It was worn around the neck or knotted around the waist in the first century C.E. Emperor Nero (among other peculiarities!) wore a sudarium around his neck during almost all public appearances, and is even depicted with it on some coins from his reign.
Soldiers in the Croatian military used scarves to denote rank, much like the early Chinese.  Historians do not know when the practice started, but it gained fame when Croatian soldiers impressed the French court of Louis XIII in 1636.
By the reign of Louis XIV the neck scarf was a staple of the French court.  They were named “cravats” after the Croats that had introduced them.  Many paintings of noblemen at the time, including Louis XIV, include a brightly-colored cravat. The style was spread across Continental Europe by military men, and was brought back to England by King Charles II when he returned from exile in 1660.
The Battle of Steenkerque in 1692 is remembered more for its fashion significance than its military impact:  the French army (led and heavily populated, at the time, by noblemen and gentlemen of class) was surprised by opposing forces, and the young men went into battle with their cravats hastily tied one end over the other rather than being done up in an elaborate bow. The result was the “steinkirk,” an Anglicized spelling of the battle and the prominent form of menswear in England for a good thirty years after the battle.  It replaced much larger and lacier cravats with a simpler knot and plainer cloth. The ends were twisted together and tucked through a buttonhole, creating a shape much more like our modern necktie.
When Ludwig von Beethoven set out to woo Therese Malfatti in 1810 he adopted a new personal style, which included silk scarves to go with his new suits.
Queen Victoria of England was a great proponent of fashionable accessories, including scarves for both men and women. Neck scarves and cravats became a status symbol, with the material and even the knot of your neckwear indicating your social class. Around this time coachmen and drivers also popularized the familiar “four-in-hand” knot as a way of tying their scarves while still holding the reins, i.e. the reins to four horses in one hand while you tie your scarf with the other.  This is still the knot many men use for their necktie today. Burberry, still a source for iconic neck scarves, was founded in 1856 (though their distinctive tartan pattern was not created until the 1920s, and even then began as a jacket lining rather than a scarf pattern).
By the First World War scarves were a staple winter garment for men. Knitting them was a patriotic chore encouraged in both America and Great Britain during the war.  Art from the time depicts soldiers wearing scarves in the trenches (the iconic trenchcoat, fittingly enough, was also designed by Burberry for the war effort). Early aviators considered scarves essential flight equipment. They provided warmth at high altitudes and needed padding when pilots craned their necks back and forth to scan for other planes.  Scarves enjoyed popularity among young men in the 1920s and 1930s partly because of their military origins and most likely – as is today, their ability to transform an outfit from mundane to striking.
The man's scarf has been replaced as an item of daily business wear by the necktie. Scarves are now an accent for men who choose them rather than a necessity that signifies your rank or class status. The few associations left range from the ultra-formal white scarf worn over a tuxedo jacket to the striped scarves of clubs – although these are becoming more and more rare. So while neckwear is a daily chore for some men, it is also a tradition dating back before the birth of Christ. So tie a scarf on with confidence, knowing that over 80 generations before you have done so with gusto. And that's something to cheer you up in front of the mirror each morning.
0 notes
paulrennie · 5 years
Text
Things I Like • Feliks Topolski • War Artist • 1941
Tumblr media
Here is a lovely book, I found today, about the Polish artist, Feliks Topolski. As you can see, from the picture above, the book was published in 1941.
The printed books, pamphlets and ephemera of the home-front in WW2 are
Topolski has arrived in Britain in 1935. In his autobiography, he describes Old England in terms of the exotic! His drawings of the pomp, circumstance and ceremonial of old London capture those feelings exactly.
Topolski was a fabulous graphic artist who developed a form of drawing that was a kind of graphic reportage. Not surprisingly, he was appointed an official war artist. Later, he used his skill to report on events all around the world.
He’s familiar to us from his skill as an illustrator and as a textile designer of silks and scarves, for Zika Ascher.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
0 notes
chicinsilk · 1 month
Text
Tumblr media
Jules-François Crahay for Jeanne Lanvin Spring/Summer 1965 Haute Couture Collection. Suit in navy and pink tartan wool canvas by Perceval-Sekers, blouse in silk muslin printed with navy and pink paisley designs by Ascher, hat by Bernard Devaux.
Jules-François Crahay pour Jeanne Lanvin Collection Haute Couture Printemps/Été 1965. Tailleur en toile-étamine de laine écossaise marine et rose de Perceval-Sekers, blouse en mousseline de soie imprimée de dessins cachemire marine et rose d'Ascher, chapeau de Bernard Devaux.
10 notes · View notes
badassbutterfly1987 · 2 years
Text
Writer’s month prompts
promise (Thomas + Margaret)
chance (Susan + Maggie)
gold (Harry/Murphy)
fashion world (Molly/Inari)
heart (Helen + Amanda)
married life (Harry/Murphy)
castle (Harry + Thomas)
heat (Hannah Ascher)
post-canon (Thomas/Justine)
kiss (Harry/Murphy)
swim (Thomas/Justine)
roommates (Susan + Murphy)
fairy realm (Margaret/Lea)
wild (Inari + Thomas)
soulmate AU (Margaret/Lord Raith)
shadows (Elaine/Susan)
ice (Thomas/Molly)
bridge (Thomas/Justine/Molly)
single parent (Margaret + Thomas)
daemons (McCoy)
pain (Justine)
forest (Elaine + Aurora)
all a dream (Harry/Lara)
bow (Justine + Theo)
lips (Elisa/Freydis)
time travel (Maggie)
silk (Harry/Murphy)
sugar (Molly + Maggie)
bond (Margaret/Lord Raith)
prison (Thomas)
artist & model (Thomas/Justine)
3 notes · View notes
suzylwade · 4 years
Photo
Tumblr media
The Mad Silkman “He competed in three world championships, in ’35, ’37 and ’38. He was also picked for the ’36 Winter Olympics in Germany, in Garmisch, but unfortunately hurt himself in the practice race, so he didn’t actually compete”. - Peter Ascher, son Zika and Lida Ascher. This is a story of silk, skis, Picasso and Queen’s Park Rangers. It’s also the story about the publication of a magnificent book about Peter Ascher’s parents ‘The Mad Silkman: Zika and Lida Ascher Textiles and Fashion’. The Ascher story begins in pre-war Czechoslovakia - a place of financial and social success for the Ascher’s - the advent of the Nazis and a flight to a safer haven in the West. Zika Ascher, once a star Czech skier, a daredevil on the slopes who was dubbed “the Mad Silkman” (as a nod to his family textile business) acquired a new nickname when he and his wife came to London in March 1939. In Britain, Zika became “the Prince of Prints” because the Ascher’s developed an extraordinary fashion fabric business aided by Zika’s encyclopaedic knowledge of textiles, dyes and chemicals and Lida’s exquisite taste and willingness to approach artists and designers. The company’s calling card was the “Ascher Square” a silk scarf with a design from the great artists of the day. Pablo Picasso, Henry Moore and Henri Matisse, Jean Cocteau and Cecil Beaton, Barbara Hepworth and Lucian Freud, all designed for Ascher. The business, based in central London’s Wigmore Street provided top-of-the-range fashion textiles for houses such as ‘Dior’, ‘Balenciaga', ‘Lanvin’ and ‘Pierre Cardin’. It was in Prague that Zika had been heavily influenced by the Czech textile manufacturer Josef Sochor, who was among the first to persuade artists to design for printed fabrics. Zika took up this idea when he left Czechoslovakia and set up ‘Ascher London’ in 1941. The pages of ‘The Mad Silkman’ are filled with pictures of the exclusive designs made for the Aschers. ‘Ascher: The Mad Silkman: Zika & Lida Ascher: Textiles and Fashion’ by Konstantina Hlavackova is out now. #neonurchin #neonurchinblog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #suzyurchin #ollyurchin #art #music #photography #fashion #film #words #pictures #neon https://www.instagram.com/p/B9EQYlwAPqt/?igshid=1bct8au7g82im
0 notes
arronlovell86-blog · 7 years
Text
Roles Of The Father Of The Groom.
Then they proceed again travel up until they exchange the team from the teen's who having a tiny event behind the harsh road. Guy simply don't obtain as delighted regarding brand new garments as females perform and also due to the fact that I am actually regularly buying clothes for the family members anyhow, it didn't suggest anything exclusive when I provided my hubby a great silk connection. Papa of the groom toast is just http://getnowsport.info/lakawi-usuwa-zoltawy-spirulina-z-kolei-zarzadza one of the vital practices to celebrate the upcoming relationship celebration of the bridegroom and the bride-to-be. The absolute most modest means of saying thank you to your dad is actually by providing him a present. Giving praises to the bride and groom is the significant problem of a groom father speech. Right here are actually some suggestions for composing an inspiring Dad of the Bride pep talk that certainly not merely will seem fantastic as well as maintain individuals amused, yet that are going to make one more lovely wedding day moment for your daughter as well as brand-new son-in-law. The vast bulk from divorcees perform not want to find their former significant other, not to mention acquire all of them pricey gifts but, under specific scenarios, getting your very soon to become ex a tiny - or even perhaps even big - gift is really pretty a great suggestion. But inspire from the persistence of his father to walk on this basic road the kid is all hesitant as well as disapproval alone life with two ferrymen and also wants to return to the metropolitan area and the lifestyle of wealth and interest he recognizes. He will certainly enjoy this. When our team devote time along with him and thus does our mortal daddy, our divine papa likes that. During the run of the 1st season from Papa Ted, Graham Linehan found herself on the existing activities talk show Straight to Reply having to defend his situation comedy. This is a story I've been actually told and think to become accurate, although my father has certainly never discussed his goals, and never fussed regarding the reparations or even options he created, he merely performed the best factor. The author only celebrated her one year wedding anniversary and sports a gorgeous ascher cut band. I performed this typically, primarily fantasizing, that my household would be sittinged at the table having dinner and also my father would come in as if he certainly never left.
Tumblr media
Daddy Khalil even lost hope his original office to house an Iraqi loved ones under his care on the church reasons. This behaves that I have the ability to connection with a person who is actually as emotional and compassionate as I am and to nourish her toward sharing her emotions as well as interests rather than concealing all of them away. Just how comical it all seems currently, having said that I clearly recall the day when I concerned ten years old, and also a really great schoolmate of mine set to place gum tissue in my hair. He must possess viewed the illuminations distant as well as thought that an expedition all over the bog would certainly be actually a good short cut.
Tumblr media
0 notes
St. John Collection Degrade Floral Silk Halter Dress, Caviar/Multi
Details
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon shirtwaist cocktail dress combines lace top with taffeta detailing and skirt.
Spread collar with button closure; placket front.
Three-quarter sleeves; French cuffs.
Belted waist with jeweled buckle.
Fitted bodice; back princess seams.
Pleated, full skirt falls below knee.
Self, polyester; combo, cotton/nylon/rayon.
Lining, polyester; dry clean.
Imported of Italian material.
DesignerAbout Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon:Gowns and dresses in the Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon collection feature feminine silhouettes and luxurious fabrics. Designer and CEO Rickie Freeman ups the glamour quotient with detailed embellishments that make each style distinctive.
Find the low prices on mid length dressess Compare ratings and read reviews on Clothing shops to find best deals plus discount offers At: . There are many deals onmid length dressess in the Shops online, therefore research before you buy. Whether you are searching for mid length dressess, Can help you save money with online discounts and coupons on affordable selections : find a mid length dressess that is right for you.
Rerate Posts
Work Dresses
Mini Dresses
Sweater Dresses
Cocktail Dresses
Mid Length Dressess
Derek Lam 10 Crosby Sleeveless Striped Flounce Dress, Midnight
Trina Turk Short-Sleeve Split-Neck Striped Sheath Dress
Raoul Piper Belted Trapeze Shirtdress, Eraser
Giorgio Armani Long-Sleeve V-Neck Large-Pocket Dress, White
Armani Collezioni 3/4-Sleeve Godet-Pleated Dress, Imperial Purple
Opening Ceremony Lotus Wavy Stripe Maxi Dress, White
Proenza Schouler Cutout Waist & Shoulder Long-Sleeve Gown, Black
Diane von Furstenberg Satin Asymmetric Ruffle Gown, Black
Halston Heritage Sleeveless Jewel-Neck Ponte Dress, Dark Tulip
Erdem Floral Jeweled-Trim Sleeveless Midi Dress, Slate Blue
Robert Rodriguez Polka Dot Midi Dress, Black
Fuzzi Ruffled Off-the-Shoulder Stretch-Lace Sheath Dress, Turquoise
Rachel Zoe Short-Sleeve Lace Overlay Midi Dress, Black
TOM FORD Off-The-Shoulder Sheath Dress, Black
Michael Kors Wave-Beaded Tulle Sheath Dress
Black Halo SLVLSS BTNCK FLRL BALL GOWN
Elie Tahari Anabelle Sleeveless Lace Feathered A-Line Dress, Black
Ramy Brook Maisie Grommet-Trim Cold-Shoulder Dress, Navy
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon Sleeveless Floral Midi Dress, Multi
Milly Sleeveless Textured Leaf Fit-and-Flare Dress, Red/Black
Emilio Pucci Sleeveless Round-Neck Skimmer Dress, Purple/Multi
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon Cap-Sleeve Boat-Neck Floral Cocktail Dress
St. John Collection Metallic Palm-Jacquard Short-Sleeve Dress, Caviar Gunmetal
Eileen Fisher Georgette Round-Neck Overlay Dress
Raoul Piper Graphic-Print Belted Trapeze Dress
Talbot Runhof Korbut Cap-Sleeve Embellished Dress, Multi Colors
Current/Elliott The Slouchy Scoop-Neck Dress, Black Camouflage
Talbot Runhof Loma Embellished Dolman-Sleeve Gown, Oyster
Catherine Deane Short-Sleeve Metallic Lace Cocktail Dress, Emerald
Fuzzi Lace Sleeveless Mermaid Midi Dress
Oscar de la Renta Sleeveless Metallic Fit-&-Flare Dress, Gold
Roberto Cavalli Leopard-Print Silk Caftan, Leopard
Current/Elliott The Slouchy Scoop-Neck T-Shirt Dress, Navy Sonic Stripe
Altuzarra Sophia Sleeveless Flounce-Hem Dress, Black
Oscar de la Renta Printed Sleeveless Dress with Scarf, Black
Marc Jacobs Bicolor Long-Sleeve Drop-Waist Dress, Black
Valentino Short-Sleeve Pleated-Front Mini Dress, Off White
Victoria Beckham Long-Sleeve Plunging-Neck Gown, Cobalt Blue
Carolina Herrera Sleeveless Cheetah-Print Sheath Dress, Cheetah
Sachin & Babi Noir Sleeveless Ruffle-Trim Satin Gown, Emerald
Erin Fetherston Sleeveless Printed V-Neck Cocktail Dress, Blue
Kobi Halperin Sleeveless Silk Lace-Trim Midi Dress, Crimson
Johanna Ortiz Princess Victoria Ruffled Deep-V Sleeveless Gown, Red
Saint Laurent Sleeveless Embellished Mini Dress, Gold/Silver
Halston Heritage Long-Sleeve Draped-Front Colorblock Dress, Chalk/Black
Carolina Herrera Sleeveless Sheer-Yoke Lace Sheath Dress, Ivory
Current/Elliott The Easy Long-Sleeve Sweaterdress, Steel
Elizabeth and James Kenji Sleeveless Floral-Print Dress, Multi/Black
Eileen Fisher High-Low Long-Sleeve A-line Dress
Piazza Sempione Audrey Funnel-Neck Delaunay-Print Dress, Navy
Milly Selena Off-The-Shoulder Sheath Dress, Flame
Milly Mika Sleeveless Italian Cady Sheath Dress, Cobalt
ph15 Long-Sleeve Eyelet Cocktail Dress, Electric Blue
Roland Mouret Ascher Swiss-Dot Flounce-Hem Dress, Black/Ecru
Brunello Cucinelli Cutaway-Gilet Monili-Trim Dress, Navy
Escada Cold-Shoulder Embellished-Neck Dress, Black
St. John Collection Rumba Knit Crystal-Trim Mermaid Gown, Hibiscus
Lafayette 148 New York Sleeveless Floral-Print Cloqué Shift Dress, Multi
Haute Hippie Solitaire Burnout Velvet Maxi Dress
Rubin Singer Strapless Floral-Print Party Dress, Pink/Black
Herve Leger Short-Sleeve Bateau-Neck Bandage Dress, Raspberry
Kobi Halperin Sleeveless Embellished Lace Midi Dress, Black
7 For All Mankind Zip-Front Belted Denim Dress, Indigo
Helmut Lang Ruched-Side Crepe Dress
Kay Unger New York Sleeveless Satin & Lace Cocktail Dress, Indigo
Alice + Olivia Shary Embellished Kaftan Dress
RED Valentino Sleeveless Scoop-Neck Crochet Dress, Ivory/White
Alexis Poppy Sequined Cocktail Dress, Black
Badgley Mischka Sleeveless Floral Popover Dress, Bordeaux/Multicolor
THE ROW Nelly Raw-Edge Sleeveless Midi Dress, Ivory
Rachel Zoe Bethany Embroidered Off-the-Shoulder Dress, Black
Self-Portrait Long-Sleeve Tiered Lace Mini Dress, Crimson
Herve Leger Camouflage Sleeveless Bandage Dress, Green
Michael Kors Stretch-Wool Bell-Skirt Dress, Suntan
Theory Helaina Pioneer Seamed Shift Dress
Tadashi Shoji Sequined Mesh & Jersey Cocktail Dress, Deep Leaf/Black
Elizabeth and James Elana Sleeveless Cutout-Back Gown, Black
Halston Heritage Long-Sleeve Draped-Front Colorblock Dress, Chalk/Black
kate spade new york 3/4-sleeve crepe flounce dress, pink
Lafayette 148 New York Hathaway Belted Zip-Front Dress
Etro Long-Sleeve Combo Sheath Dress, Ivory/Gold
Akris Cheetah-Print Asymmetric-Hem Dress, Date Steppe
Pamella Roland Ombre Sequined Half-Sleeve Ball Gown, Iris/White
RED Valentino Sleeveless Scalloped Sheath Dress
Tryb Cecilia Sleeveless Maxi Dress, Savanna Print
Halston Heritage One-Shoulder Asymmetric Belted Dress, Eggshell
Jenny Packham Crystal-Bodice Short-Sleeve Gown, Illusion/Stormy Blue
Alice + Olivia Juela Cutout High-Low Gown, Nude/Poppy
Monique Lhuillier Beaded Cap-Sleeve Illusion Dress, Rose Pink
Oscar de la Renta Sleeveless Mixed Poppy-Print Dress, Black
Oscar de la Renta Sleeveless Mixed Poppy-Print Dress, Black
Parker Braelyn Metallic-Stripe Cocktail Dress
Theory Komiza Tilde Studded-Sleeve Suede Shift Dress
RED Valentino Sleeveless Rainbow Mini Shirtdress, Black
Diane von Furstenberg Viera Lace Sleeveless V-Neck Sheath Dress, Neptune Blue/Black
Halston Heritage Sleeveless V-Neck Print Chiffon Gown, Black Reflections
Rachel Pally Eliot Cold-Shoulder Maxi Dress
Herve Leger Scoop-Neck Bandage Gown
A.L.C. Valera Sleeveless Laced Twill Mini Dress, Sage
Kendall + Kylie Short-Sleeve Lace Babydoll Dress
0 notes
quotesuniteposts · 3 years
Text
0 notes
Text
A scarf can mean many things – but above all, prestige
When International Monetary Fund Managing Director Christine Lagarde goes to the G8 summit in June, she may well be wearing a scarf – a fashion accessory that she’s become known for, and one that’s been drawing more and more attention. In fact, the BBC recently identified scarves as a “new power symbol” for women.
True, just as some men choose amusing neckties to enliven monochrome suits, many women who work in an atmosphere that requires conservative business apparel will wear scarves to add a fillip of color and distinction.
But the trend is anything but “new.” In looking at the history of scarves in the 19th and 20th centuries, it’s clear that the allure and power of scarves has always existed – and persists.
A single piece of cloth
The scarf is the most simple form of adornment: a single piece of cloth. For this reason, it’s one of the most versatile clothing accessories, used for centuries across a variety of cultures, for a range of purposes.
Many Muslim women wear headscarves for modesty, while ladies of a certain age favor scarves with a triangular fold to protect expensive or elaborate coifs.
A scarf can be a political statement, and can denote a wearer’s affiliation or beliefs. Early 20th-century crusaders for women’s rights used their clothing to promote their cause, wearing scarves in the movement’s colors: white, green and purple.
During World War II, scarves expressed nationalist sentiments. The British firm Jacqmar produced designs with propaganda-themed slogans. One featured the phrase “Shoulder to Shoulder” on a map of England emblazoned with British and American symbols. Another design mimicked a wall covered with posters urging citizens to “Lend to Defend” and “Save for Victory.”
An elegant fashion
But in Western culture, the scarf is most prominently known for its use as a fashion accessory, one that first gained widespread popularity in the 19th century.
The fichu is a typical 18th- and 19th-century style that can be seen as the forerunner of modern scarves. A piece of fabric worn lightly draped on the upper chest and usually knotted in front, it provided modest covering but was also an opportunity to add an especially fine textile – sometimes lace edged or embroidered – to an ensemble.
Lightweight, finely woven silk and cashmere shawls from India were one of the first fashionable scarf styles. Empress Joséphine – the first wife of Napoleon – had an extensive collection (thanks to her husband’s travels), and the style persisted through much of the 19th century, spawning cheaper imitations fabricated in other parts of Europe, notably France and Paisley, Scotland.
Status symbols
Like much of high fashion, scarves can signal one’s status, and limited edition scarves – often only made available to favored customers – can act as specific indicators for those in the know.
For example, fashion houses send scarves, often during the holidays, as thank-yous to loyal clients. Those produced by Parisian couturiers during the 1950s were especially chic, often designed with sketches of the maison; others displayed printed patterns in the whimsical, painterly style of the era.
And from the 1950s into the 1970s, the famed Manhattan eating and drinking establishment 21 produced a series of annual scarves and sent them to favorite “regulars.”
The restaurant’s owners commissioned well-known designers, and each year’s scarf design referred to some aspect of the restaurant – its famous façade, the collection of jockey statues outside or the number 21.
Actress Lauren Bacall, an esteemed regular, donated her 21 scarves to the Museum at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, where other pieces from her wardrobe were recently exhibited.
A canvas for experimentation
As a discrete space, a scarf presents an opportunity for experimentation often not available in other realms of dress that are determined – and restricted – by the shape of the body.
In London in the 1940s, Lida and Zika Ascher initiated their “Artist Squares” project, enlisting an international roster of prominent artists to design large scarves, a group that included Henri Matisse, Jean Cocteau and Henry Moore.
The Artist Squares were sold in major department stores and also exhibited – framed, like paintings – at London’s Lefevre Gallery.
To celebrate her new couture salon in 1935, the designer Elsa Schiaparelli made a collage of her press clippings and had it printed as fabric for scarves and other accessories, turning black and white type into a striking motif.
A scarf by the American designer Vera offers another variation on lettering as ornament, presenting the titles of international newspapers, each in its distinctive typeface, on a vivid yellow background.
Hermès: The crème de la crème
Certain labels are particularly associated with high style in scarves. Ferragamo, Fendi and Gucci – all originally esteemed leather goods houses – now produce desirable scarves.
But for prestige and polish, Hermès represents the pinnacle of scarf culture. Several aspects of its business have contributed to the company’s reputation. Founded in 1837 as a supplier of equestrian supplies, Hermès began offering scarves, called carrés, in 1937.
Their focus on exclusivity has encouraged an almost fetishistic loyalty among customers, many of whom could more properly be termed “collectors.” Limiting the number of designs they offer each season has maintained Hermès’ mystique. The company’s focus on craftsmanship helps justify their reputation and high prices; Hermès takes pride in the impressive number of colors in each design, the hand-printing process and the fineness of their silk, positioning their output as artisanal creations.
While not at the level of Hermès, the American accessories company Echo, founded in 1923, also has a loyal following. The firm pinpointed the essence of the scarf with their memorable ad campaign “The Echo of an Interesting Woman,” introduced in the 1970s.
In contemporary fashion, scarves continue to serve the same functions as those earlier fine linen fichus and paisley shawls; they denote connoisseurship and sophistication.
It’s no surprise, then, that sociologist and image consultant Anna Akbari makes “Put on a scarf” the first entry on her current list of “5 Simple Ways To Hack Your Image,” recognizing their potential for instant uplift and an infusion of individuality.
source: https://theconversation.com/a-scarf-can-mean-many-things-but-above-all-prestige-39763 
0 notes