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professionalwatches01 · 3 years

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REVIEW: Yema Superman Bronze Black

Almost to the day three years ago, after plenty of commenting on his posts and protracted badgering, I pried away a 70’s Yema 53 001 6 Superman with French caliber 4611 quick set movement from a Yema collector located in Paris.

That sort of provenance and it’s ghost bezel and therefore the unique bezel locking mechanism is that the stuff of #watchnerd lore and commenced an affinity with me for the brand.

Yema may be a French watchmaking company founded in 1948 in Besançon, France by Henry Louis Belmont. The brand has had noteworthy accomplishments throughout its years. They produced early anti-shock watches within the 50s and within the 60s the Yema Superman was water-resistant to a strong 300 meters (1963) and therefore the Yema Rallygraf was equipped with a tachometer for car enthusiasts (1968). In 1966, 1967 and 1968 Yema was the leading exporter of French watches with quite 500,000 sold each of these years across 50 countries. The Yema Spationaute was the primary (only?) French watch to fly in space with Jean-Loup Chretien in 1982 and therefore the Yema North Pole accompanied Nicholas Hulot (no “b” lol) and Hubert de Chevigny to the North Pole in 1987.

Having been owned by Seiko Watch Corporation of Japan since 1988, Yema returned to French ownership in 2004, and in 2009 Yema was acquired by the French watchmaker group Montres Ambre, based in Morteau, France. In 2011 Yema released its first-generation self-winding mechanical in-house movement, the Caliber MBP1000. it's been utilized in over 250,000 Yema timepieces since then. Yema now has developed its second-generation in-house calibers exclusive to the brand.

For this review, we've the Yema Superman Bronze black, (Ref. YSUPZ20C39-AAS), equipped with the new three-hand Yema 2000 caliber movement. Precision has been improved to 10 seconds each day rate accuracy (from a 20 seconds each day tolerance), and therefore the power reserve is now 42-hours.

Keeping faithful its heritage, all Yema Superman models feature their unique bezel-lock at 3 o’clock. it's been found on all Superman models since 1963 and has proven useful to professional divers. As could be expected, the watch features a screw-down crown and features a vintage Yema logo engraved. The 316L chrome steel caseback is additionally engraved with Yema’s coat of arms. Water-resistance is 300 meters.

Bronze that’s untreated will age differently counting on its use and weather exposed to, making each patina and watch unique over time. The hands and markers are treated with lume that's extremely legible. The watch without a strap weighs 68 grams. The steel case vintage Superman weighed in at 56 grams but due to the case material difference, it’s like comparing bronze apples to steel oranges.

In a side by side comparison with my Yema Superman from the ’70s, they're precisely the same in every way minus a tenth of a millimeter (0.1 mm) greater thickness difference for the fashionable version, imperceivable to the attention or on the wrist. Both have a (measured by digital calipers) 39.5 mm case diameter, 47.8 mm lug to lug length, and 19 mm lug width. As previously mentioned, the thickness of the vintage auto is 13.5 mm, where the fashionable is 13.6 mm.

I really like this particular Superman offering also because the revival of the brand and their other automatic watches as an entire . The bronze Superman has excellent wrist presence, catching multiple strangers taking a look at it during its outing within the wild with me and it feels a bit like its vintage counterpart on the wrist. I personally would have liked this model in steel better than bronze to match the authenticity of the first Yema Supermen of the 60s and 70s but it’s done alright and that they currently offer multiple steel Superman variations. i used to be also not an enormous fan of the OEM black leather minimal stitch strap pairing the model comes with and quickly changed it out for a vintage tropic strap and every one was right within the world once more . Yema currently also offers tropical rubber strap and steel bracelet options and that i suggest you accompany one among those. I even have a green canvas strap with its name thereon next which can be “the” combo for it but you’ll need to check my Instagram feed @kicktoc to ascertain for yourself.

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#Yema Superman Bronze

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anycontentposter · 4 years

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The Best Windup NYC Debuts: Part II

At this year’s Windup NYC, there were so many interesting (an unexpected) unveilings of new watches seen by the public for the first time that we had to split our round-up of said watches into multiple posts. So, without further delay, here’s another set of watches we loved that made their public debut at Windup this year. And if you haven’t already, be sure to check out our first installment, right here.

Zelos Hammerhead 2

Elshan Tang, proprietor of Zelos Watches, was back this year with a followup to the Hammerhead, the appropriately named Hammerhead 2. The original Hammerhead, Tang’s take on a 70s inspired cushion cased diver with ultra modern specs and an angular aesthetic, has long been sold out, so fans were naturally excited when they spotted the new version at the Zelos table at Windup this year.

Available in stainless steel and bronze cases, and in a variety of colorways, the Hammerhead 2 largely maintains the original’s imposing appearance, and adds a helium escape valve for a touch of additional functionality, if you happen to be a saturation diver (or, if you just happen to enjoy extremely over engineered things, which the Hammerhead 2 most certainly is). This watch is all about heft and wrist presence. While some brands race to create lighter and ever more discreet timepieces, Zelos is going for the opposite here, and if you like the idea of your watch being a giant yet extremely attractive and well made hunk of metal, there’s a ton of appeal here. The Hammerhead 2 is expected to be available on the Zelos website by late November, at a $399 price point. Zelos

YEMA Superman Black Bronze

YEMA debuted a new bronze dive watch at Windup this year, a follow up of sorts to the sold out Superman Heritage Bronze Limited Edition. That edition, you’ll recall, came in a brilliant dark blue dial and was a faithful rendering of the original Superman, using high end 3-D modeling technology to get all the little details just right, including YEMA’s trademark locking bezel mechanism. With the Superman Black Bronze, much the same formula has been used, but in a slightly different series of colorways, adding some versatility into the YEMA lineup.

Obviously, the Black Bronze features a matte black dial where its predecessor was an iridescent blue, giving the watch a very different appearance right out of the gate. YEMA has also given their customers the option of a bezel in black or burgundy for this edition (both in a modern sapphire). The combination of burgundy with the warmth of the bronze is really great in person, and the watch itself is surprisingly sleek and sporty thanks to its 39mm sizing and thin lug profile. The YEMA Superman Black Bronze will be offered in a numbered edition of 100 for each of the two variants beginning in late November, with non-numbered watches being made available in January 2020. YEMA

Autodromo Intereuropa

Autodromo creates automotive inspired watches that aren’t really anything like what you typically see in the crowded genre of car and racing timekeepers. Their newest creation, the Intereuropa, is perhaps their strongest statement yet that a watch derived from motorsports doesn’t have to be a sports watch at all. The Intereuropa is all about capturing a mood and evoking a unique moment in time.

To do this, designer Bradley Price focuses less on the cars that inspire him and more on how those cars make him feel. The 1950s sport coupes that are the basis for the Intereuropa’s design are beautiful, elegant machines, and Price has crafted a beautiful, elegant machine to match it. It’s not so much that the Intereuropa makes you think of a classic Maserati or Alfa Romeo (though the dial is modeled on gauges from cars of this period), but it acts as a suitable complement to the vehicle if you’re lucky enough to find yourself behind the wheel of a classic berlinetta. Featuring a hand wound Swiss movement, sumptuous leather straps, and a dial with surprising and rewarding depth, the Intereuropa is another in a series of entirely unique motorsport inspired watches from Autodromo. Autodromo

Oak & Oscar Olmstead

We first told you about the Olmstead a few days before Windup kicked off, but the fair was the first time the public had a chance to go hands on with the new field watch from the Chicago based brand, so in our mind it certainly counts as a Windup debut.

Field watches are having a bit of a moment right now. There’s something about the simplicity and utility of a highly legible time only or time and date watch that will always be appealing to enthusiasts. Oak & Oscar has delved into a bunch of interesting watch sub-genres in their short history, creating a series of complicated watches all within their unique design language. I was curious, then, to see how they’d fare with a much simpler timepiece. There’s greater room for error in terms of design, after all, when you’re working in a style as spare as the field watch.

After having a chance to experience the Olmstead in person, I don’t think there’s any doubt that Oak & Oscar nailed their attempt at a field watch. It’s just the right size, highly legible, and regardless of the colorway chosen, it’s still unmistakably Oak & Oscar, complete with a sandwich dial and pops of color in just the right places. Oak & Oscar

Farer World Timer Automatic

Farer debuted an entirely new collection at Windup, representing their take on a traditional and challenging complication, the world timer. Three new references in Farer’s trademark vibrant colors made an appearance at the fair, and judging by the deep lines at their table all three days, the new World Timer collection was a hit.

Distinct from the much more common GMT, a world timer gets its name from being able to see the time across the globe in any timezone, at a glance. This presents not only watchmaking challenges (the mechanism for a world timer is inherently more complex than a GMT) but design problems as well. Many world timers become so packed with information they become hard to read the home time, let alone the time anywhere else on the planet. This is where Farer’s unique take on color really comes in handy, as they’re able to create dial layouts that are immediately intuitive and easy to read. They haven’t reinvented anything here – their version of the world timer still uses a revolving cities disc and inner 24 hour ring, just like classics of the genre – but their design sense and ability to perfectly match and complement bold color choices gives a very traditional complication a much needed modern update. Farer

Collins Sonar

Collins Watch Company had early versions of their Sonar series of dive watches available at Windup, and the small collection represents something of a shift for the brand in terms of aesthetics. While previous Collins watches could be easily identified by their aviation inspired meets Explorer-style dials, the Sonar is actually a fairly traditional dive watch at a great price point, in a size that will make lots of enthusiasts happy.

I think the key to appreciating the Sonar is the breadth of options that brand founder Jimmy Collins is giving you with this watch. This, quite simply, is not what I would have expected from the brand, as previous releases had just a few well selected color variants to pick from. The freedom of choice here is great, and allows Collins to explore color in a way he hasn’t in his earlier Bronson and Hyperion releases. The Sonar will be available in black and white dial variants with a black rotating bezel, as well as orange, blue, green, and yellow versions with a great tool-ish steel bezel. At just a hair under 40mm and a retail price of $750, these watches are a fun value proposition. Collins Watch Company

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