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scentofavoyager · 4 years

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Varanasi - Keep on rolling

In the month of December my husband and I visited Varanasi with our friends. We left from Patna by train and reached Mughalsarai station at night. We had to wait there almost all the night for the Taxi. It was a memorable experience for us to witness the sleepless busy junction throughout the night. We put up in a guest house near Godowlia where our friends from Kolkata who had reached early waiting for us. It was dawn by the time we reached.

The steps

The train crossing the bridge towards Varanasi along the Ganga, a Sannyasi feeding the pigeons, sights of people bathing, an old lady meditating under an umbrella (chhatri), Harihar stepping upstairs after a dip in the Ganga and taking the religious mark (tilak) on his forehead, these collages of scenes from Aparajito ( The second part of Apu Trilogy, directed by Satyajit Ray) introduced me to ghats of Varanasi.

On the day we reached Varanasi, we started our journey with one of the oldest ghats, Dasaswamedh ghat. According to hindu mythology, 10 horses were sacrificed by Lord Bramha during the Dasa - Aswamedha yajna upon which the ghat came into being. It is one of the most popular bathing ghats. There was constant flow of devotees, some were worshipping the Sun God (Suryapranam) and others taking body massages. In the morning a spectacular sight of Dasaswamedh enthralled us. Our next destination was Dwarbhanga Ghat, which had a royal look, was of architectural importance and was a ritual place for pilgrims. We took a stroll along the ghat.

Dwarbhanga Ghat was shown in Satyajit Ray's iconic movie, Joy Baba Felunath, where Feluda in disguise caught the antagonist of the movie, Machhlibaba.

Both of these ghats were in our bucket list, and we spent quality time there, watching the scenes around us with the endless river flowing through it all.

Oaring under the stars

In the evening, we experienced a boat ride through Dasaswamedh ghat. Our aim was to visit as many ghats as possible and the boatman showed us around different ghats. The visual elements of the ghats were strikingly different, some bustling with the diverse activities of life, and in Manikarnika engulfed in fire and smoke emanating from the cremations of dead bodies. Here, death is accepted with candor and contiguity, It is a belief that through cremation in Manikarnika Ghat, human souls find Salvation or Moksha. The portrait of the rhythm of life and death was painted in the same canvas, depicting the philosophy of life. It reminded me of a dohe of Sant Kabir who grew up in Varanasi .

" Kal jeev ko grasai, bahut kahyo samujhaye Kahain Kabir main kya karun Koi nahi patiyaye."

( Death devours the living, have told this many times Kabir says what can I do if nobody believes me.)

The sky was moonless and the stars were infinite. We came back to Dasaswamedh ghat.

Darshana

Tejomayam Sagunna- Nirgunnam- Advitiiyam_ Aananda- Kandam- Aparaajitam- Aprameyam Naaga-Atmakam Sakala- Nisskalam- Aatmaruupam Vaaraannasii- Pura- Patim Bhaja Vishvanaatham॥6॥

6.1: ( Salutations to Sri Vishwanatha) who is filled with Spiritual Splendour ( Tejomaya), Who can assume a form with Gunas ( Qualities or Attributes) as well as abide us the Non- dual expanse beyond all Gunas ( qualities or Attributes). 6.2:: Whose essential nature overflows with Bliss which is Unsurpassed by anything and is beyond all Measures, 6.3: Whose body is adorned with Serpents, and whose essential nature is merged in Atman,Complete and Undivided ( expanse of Chidakasha), 6.4: Worship that Vishwanatha, Who is the Lord of the City of Kashi.

( From Vishwanathashtakam Strotram, composed by Adi Shankaracharya)

Kashi Vishwanath temple is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas of temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. On the second day of our stay in Varanasi, in the morning, we presented ourselves in front of the mighty deity of Varanasi with folding arms and bowed heads. One of the priests sitting around the Lord threw a small garland from a distance which landed with precision on my neck. I felt startled and blessed at this sudden experience.

Near Bhiswanath temple, within walking distance, we visited Maa Annapurna (Goddess of food) Temple. The enormous supply of food ensures that no one leaves the temple hungry. Beside the physical hunger, devotees also pray to the divine mother for their spiritual nourishment.

"Annapuurnne sadaa- puurnne shangkara- praana- Vallabhe। Jnyaana- Vairaagya- siddy- Artham Bhikssaam Dehi Ca Paarvati॥"

( Salutations to mother Annapoorna) O Mother Annapoorna, You who are always full with the Food and Blessings, You who are the beloved of Shankara,... O Mother Parvati, Please grant me the Alms of Your Grace, to awaken within me spiritual Knowledge and Freedom from all Worldly Desires. ( From the Annapurna Stotram, composed by Adi Shankaracharya)

Adi Shankarachariya composed his " Manisha Pancham" in Varanasi.

Timeless feel

Whenever we could, we walked down the narrow bylanes. Vehicles, bulls, stalls blocked the passage of narrow streets, leaving little space for passing. But this enhanced the never-ending charm and oldest flavours of Varanasi . We felt lost amidst the innumerous lanes.

Viswanath gali is a strange sight, a narrow lane filled with the cacophony of noises coming from numerous stalls from puja offerings, sarees, jewellery, wooden toys, stone idol etc and people shouting in different dialects.

The morning raga

In the morning of our third day, before sunrise, we hired a boat from Dasaswamedh Ghat, and started our journey. We were crossing different ghats. The famous two freinds Trailanga Swami and Shyama Charan Lahiri were often sat on these ghats and shared their spiritual thoughts. The palace, adjacent boats along with the river, the glamourous royal look of the Dwarbhanga ghat enhanced by the first ray of sunshine was our first destination. The infiniteness of nature was like Maestro Bismillah Khan's shehenai playing the raga, Bhairav. Next, we visited Vyas Kashi temple in Ramnagar which was located on the opposite bank of the Ganga. This temple was dedicated to Veda Vyasa, the author of Mahabharata.

Serenity

On that day, after boating, we decided to visit Sarnath which was 10 km away from Varanasi. We were roaming amongst the enormous ruins, and Dhamek Stupa built in Maura dynasty caught our attention. Dhamek Stupa was that exact spot of Lord Buddha's first sermon after enlightenment to his five disciples. We explored the ruins for a long time amidst tranquility and bliss. Then we headed for Mulagandhakuti Vihara, a Budhhist monastery with splendid architecture and reverberating with Buddhist chants. A large statue of Lord Buddha at the Thai Buddha Vihara was our last destination in Sarnath.

Dhamek Stupa. PC Anjan Banerjee

Culture of artistry

India has been one of the greatest global manufacturers of textile and in the present days, the ancient Benarasi silk saree is such example.

The brocade, the traditional art of handloom that provides an extra weft. There were many outlets for selling Benarasi and we purchased ours.

Picturesque

My personal opinion is that Varanasi is perfect for photography. Early morning vibes around the Ganga and the ghats, bursting with activity throughout the day, and the hypnotic ambience of floating lanterns in the evening have attracted photographers year after year. The interplay of natural and artificial lights, and the ever changing landscape create the perfect setting for photographers. The temples, Viswanath Gali and the numerous narrow and busy streets are other attractive subjects. Every nook and corner of the colourful and vibrant city can be the aim of the camera lens. Every click captures a unique story which can't be expressed through words, even a window, a door, a slab of stone or a dilapidated house has a story of its own.

Retrospection

In the early morning, we were scheduled to return home. On our way back we heard enchanting sounds by the sages around us.

Why do the people come here? For religion, creative activities, or just tourism? Great directors like Satyajit Ray and others have used Varanasi as the focal point of their movies. Works of literature have also been centred around here. It is possible to find complete solitude amongst the chaotic ambience of Varanasi. Spiritual inquisitiveness and its practice from the ancient age till the present time have made the city significant for those who are looking for spiritual illumination.

Varuna and Assi -- Varanasi magnetism that still attracts.

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