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Wonder and Splendour in Alor

The Calor of Alor

After we disembarked from the Komodo liveaboard boat, we spent a few days in the national park’s port town of Labuan Bajo, sorting out various logistics. Sam went to a doctor to check whether there was any progress with his ears (improving but still not right) and we lost a whole day to booking onward flights because the airline’s website made it near impossible to book flights within 48 hours of leaving. Eventually, we had to book the flights at the airport itself a few hours before departure—having previously joked about who on earth ever just turns up to the airport without a ticket!

We had selected the remote Alor Archipelago as our next destination, 750km east of Labuan Bajo. We had heard tell that because of a lack of tourism infrastructure and therefore few visitors, the diving there was knockout. Two short flights and one night transiting in a different city later and we were touching down on the island of Alor itself.

Photo Above: an aerial shot of the gorgeous land, islands, atolls, and reef

An hour’s taxi ride took us from the airport along a coastal road that ran alongside the large Kalabahi bay, until we reached the village of Alor Kecil. From there, it was a five-minute boat ride across a short stretch of water to reach Kepa, the very small island where our accommodation was located.

Photo Above: the boat ride over to Kepa island with our luggage

A moment for some wider context. The Alor Archipelago is made up of two larger islands (Alor and Pantar), five smaller, and numerous outcrops. The vast majority of the total 210,000 people of the archipelago live on the two larger islands. There is only one single town, on the island of Alor, and otherwise, all residents live in numerous villages dotted about the islands. A whopping 56 different languages are spoken across the archipelago, with 70% of its residents being Protestant and 20% Muslim. There barely any restaurants outside that one single town on Alor, very few accommodation options, and just six dive shops in total. The island we were staying on, Kepa, is home to 75 permanent residents only. We were staying at Marangki, a mini complex run by a lovely man called Harris, consisting of 4 bungalows and a dining hut. Our wooden bungalow had a wet room (with flushing toilet and shower, but no sink), bedroom (consisting of the bed with its mosquito net and a wardrobe), and veranda. The island has no electricity (so a generator was run for two hours each evening to allow us guests to charge electronics) or fresh water (every day, water was brought over in a number of large jerry cans from Alor on a boat and added to a huge water tank that fed our bathrooms).

Photo Above: our bungalow!

The view from our veranda was stunning, looking down a short slope with several Flamboyan trees in full, bright bloom (also called December trees because their gorgeous red flowers only appear for a couple of months a year, just when we were there), across the bay to Alor Kecil on the other side. Within ten minutes of arrival, we saw a pod of dolphins curving through the water right in front of us—an excellent welcome all round. We also realised that as boats are the far more common form of transport (what good are land-based vehicles in an archipelago??), there was always something to see and as it turned out, hear—most of the boats had a cheap type of engine that was so loud and choppy that it sounded exactly like a helicopter landing right on the banks next to us (at all times of the night too, oh joy!).

Photos Above: the view from our bungalow; the view from one of the seating shacks of the ocean and the village of Alor Kecil

We met Tamar and Nico that first day, the dive instructors and new owners of Lazy Turtle Diving. Having worked in the dive industry for years, they had bought the dive shop just six months previously, taking over from the previous management, and so were pretty new to the area. Over the next few days, I quickly learnt that Nico had worked in diving for a solid 15 years, had quite a number of predominantly marine animals tattoos, and in his spare time liked to unwind by crocheting (while we were there, his ongoing project was the creation of a pair of SOCKS in the shape of SHARKS. Need I say more). Tamar was really welcoming, had fantastic life anecdotes (including cycling half the world in just under five years…), and was a complete whiz at repurposing and upcycling all manner of materials via her own crafty solutions—bike tyre inner tubes became dive mask straps, a beach ball in the shape of a globe became a handbag, plastic washing up liquid sachets became mobile phone pouches and purses. Both of them were so completely in love with diving, and especially the underwater wildlife, that they made for a fantastic guiding team.

The Remote Life

Our days quickly fell into a pattern. We’d be eating breakfast by 7a.m.—all our meals were cooked for us, given that all food supplies had to be shipped from Alor. We ate with the other guests in the dining hut, but as we were there right at the end of the season, there were only ever a maximum of two other guests. At 7.30, Tamar, Nico, and Jimen (the captain), would be waiting for me in the Naughty Nudi (their excellently named dive boat) on the shore right in front of our bungalow. There were more than seventy dive sites within 20 minutes, so we were never short of choice. We would zip our way through the sea, tracking our way amid the islands to our dive site of choice, often right in front of a village on one of the small islands. All the villages seemed divided by religion, so there would either be a disproportionately large church or a disproportionately large mosque perched on the hill overlooking the water. Lazy Turtle Diving have an ethos of only diving in small groups so there were very rarely more than a couple of other customers besides myself. They also have a great ethos of finishing the dive based on air consumption and not time—it’s far more usual in the dive industry to finish a dive at 60 minutes (as long as you haven’t hit 25% or less of your tank beforehand), so because I have decent air consumption this meant we often had 70–90 minute dives. We would dive twice in the mornings, with an hour’s surface interval in-between, and then be back at Marangki in time for lunch at 1pm. I often went out for a third dive after lunch, which was always a “muck” dive—a type of diving on the sandy, rubbly bottom of the sea (as opposed to full blown reefs), usually at a very slow pace and with a torch to find the incredibly weird and wonderful critters. Then once back at Marangki after the third dive, I’d enjoy the dense heat of the afternoon and the consistently noisy “helicopter” boats passing by with a nice strong coffee from the dining hut, and hunker down to fill in my logbook (the record for all my dives), have a catch up call with friends or family from home, or do logistics planning with Sam for the next section of our trip. At 5.45pm, the calls to prayer from the mosques across the water in Alor Kecil would start up. The mosque that Sam and I fondly named “Disco Mosque” (due to its shiny silver dome and four smaller, rotating silver minaret domes) would always lead the way with a very melodic call, quickly joined by the call from the very large mosque a few minutes up the hill from disco mosque, which made up for an intense lack of tunefulness with its extremely loud and low-quality speakers. And finally, the third mosque, just along the coast, would join in to complete the clashing trio for the next 45 minutes. I loved the call to prayer, even including the 4a.m. round, which I was almost always awakened by and lay listening to in bed before drifting back off to sleep. Not long after the evening call to prayer, we would have dinner, relax a bit more by the water, and then be in bed by 9.30pm. Without a fan, the sizzling heat of our first few nights there made sleeping pretty difficult (I tell a lie—I found the heat pretty delightful, but all other guests seemed to have a hell of a job sleeping). Considering we were visiting right at the end of the season just as the rains were coming in, we got really lucky with the weather. We experienced a week of sizzling heat, then the odd occasional shower began to creep in, and then a full day of rain on my very last day out on the water.

Photos Above: the dining hut with one of the amazing spreads; disco mosque; the beautiful island of Kepa; a sunset over our bungalow

We were hopeful that Sam would be able to dive by the end of our eleven days in Alor, but it wasn’t to be—although his ears eventually began to feel a bit better right at the end, they were never good enough to dive. Instead, a wonderful thing happened for Sam. In being cut off from electricity, and with very little to do or achieve, he slowly settled into a very present and enjoyable kind of experience. He often did yoga on the veranda, joined us on the boat for a couple of mornings to snorkel, and took his camera out in the water right in front of our accommodation a few times too. But most of the time, he sat on one of the wooden seating “shacks”, as he called them, in front of the water and just watched the world go by—the boats passing, the numerous dolphin sightings, the water flowing with its heavy currents that changed constantly throughout the day.

Video Above: Sam managed to catch one of the dolphins (probably Spinner Dolphins) backflipping!

I found the diving around Alor completely incredible. The marine park contains easily the most pristine reefs I’ve ever seen, with such an incredible variety of corals, marine life, sponges, you name it—at several sites, I saw barrel sponges the size of cars and individual table corals (large, flat coral) far larger than a king’s size bed. Though the currents could be incredibly changeable and speedy at times, I also did plenty of dives with no current or only a very gentle current drifting us along slowly, so that we had plenty of time to peer at all the macro life on the reef. There was a great variety of diving, from shallow reef dives, to huge drop off walls that filled you with awe and wonder at the sheer topographical beauty, to fantastic muck diving. We did one dive where we saw volcanic gas bubbling out of the sea bed at just a few metres; on another, there was a vast wall that both rose out above the surface and dropped down underwater in dramatic curving swoops to who knows how deep and was teeming with so much life that I could barely take it all in.

Photos Above (all courtesy of Sam's camera skills while snorkelling): the volcanic gases bubbling up from the sea bed; the teeming reef; a hermit crab; our diving group below the water, just about to ascend (hence the neon red surface buoy); a shot of me just as I'm about to surface; a snorkelling selfie!

I also did a spectacular cavern dive that was particularly special. Tamar and I descended to the reefy bottom at about 12m and entered a cavern (the important distinction between a cave and cavern—with cavern diving, you can always see the light from the entrance). As it’s been more than two years since I last cavern dived, I’d forgotten the amazing feeling of being suspended within a cavern, perfectly held between the floor and ceiling by the water—plus I always love looking back at the entrance and seeing the black framing silhouette of the cave’s entrance surrounding an oval of vivid blue light. It’s always fascinating to see the creatures that live in a low light environment, from the brightly coloured coral (think neon pink stems with vivid yellow fronds) to a glowing orange sea cucumber. Tamar showed me these brown, almost leathery looking sacks hanging from the cave wall, each about the size of my palm and often several grouped together. She held her torch behind each one, careful not to touch it, and it glowed orange, showing the yolk within. A couple of the eggs even had something flickering around the yolk, undulating side by side in the classic movement of a fish spine—they were the tiny offspring of a bamboo shark!

We slowly made our way around the cavern and back out, then swam a short distance to another cavern. After we had swum a short way in, we did a safety stop (the diving practice of pausing at 5m for 3 minutes when ascending, to greatly minimise chance of decompression sickness), and then completely ascended, coming out in an air pocket—but when I say air pocket, I mean quite a large, cavernous space (though we kept our regulators in our mouth most of the time as the air quality may have been questionable). We spotted a Banded Sea Krait, a type of sea snake on the rocks close to the water’s edge, banded black and blue. After we’d peered at it for while, we descended back into the underwater section of the cavern and swam towards the back, then turning off our torches. The water around us lit up with flashes of blue from Flashlight Fish, which have bioluminescent stripes on their cheeks that they can turn on and off. I felt like a kid who just kept wanting to stare and stare. The whole dive felt like quite the adventure.

On one special morning, as we were travelling the open water between our two dives sites, we spotted a pod of dolphins. Our boat slowed and moved towards them, and they must have realised we were there because they surrounded us. They zipped through the water, following the bow of the boat, leaping fully out of the water in great curves around us and moving so fast that they were just wavering grey shapes in the blue. Another dive boat that was also passing joined us, and for a solid ten minutes, our two boats and the pod moved back and forth together, the entire pod of dolphins circling back around several times to keep moving alongside the boats. I tried getting a sense of how many individuals there were—definitely a minimum of 50, but probably nearer 100!

Besides Harris, Tamar, and Nico, we also met some great people in the other guests at Marangki. For our first few days, there was Jeannine, a 70-something American who has been diving all over the world for the last 40 years and spends at least 4 – 6 months of every year outside the States, travelling and diving. As you can imagine, she was a wealth of diving knowledge, and a flipping interesting person to boot. And then for our last few days, there was David (northern English) and Stu (Kiwi), two international school teachers who had lived in Indonesia for more than ten years and had a load of local knowledge and fascinating anecdotes.

It wasn’t all perfectly idyllic. On one dive, we heard several explosions that vibrated through our bodies and realised that it was illegal dynamite fishing. This is exactly as it sounds: lobbing dynamite in the water to kill everything within radius with one mega explosion, decimating the reef and indiscriminatingly killing all life. Though it must have been not all that close to us (if it takes place within 1km  underwater then apparently your whole body shakes) so we weren’t in any danger, but looking around at the reef, including sponges that were easily several hundred years old, it felt like a vast, painful loss.

And one day, when Harris was away visiting his family on Alor and Sam and I had been working on our laptops in the dining hut, I walked the one minute back to our bungalow to interrupt a man in our room who had, it became clear afterwards, just opened the wardrobe to start going through our things (my immediate thought was that he was obviously in there for a legitimate reason, such as fixing something in the room, so I actually exclaimed “oh, sorry!”). He immediately ran and I was left staring at the things he had been riffling through, which were RIGHT next to where our passports wallets, fully intact, were kept. Somehow, he had taken absolutely nothing. A sign from the universe that no matter how close we are to our room, we had to be better at always locking up.

But these were tiny downsides amid an incredible couple of weeks. Though we’d each had a very different experience of the place, we knew that we had found something really special. And given the tales we heard of developers buying up portions of land in the area, we suspect we got to experience the glory of Alor just in time.

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السَّلاَمُ عَلَيْكُمْ وَرَحْمَةُ اللهِ وَبَرَكَاتُهُ

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Buku Surat Yasin biasanya dipesan untuk tahlilan dan souvenir memperingati 100 hari kematian saudara atau kerabat. Disini kami menyediakan Buku Yasin Murah yang bagus, kuat, eksklusif dan menyediakan berbagai desain sesuai pesanan dan kebutuhan Anda dengan harga yang terjangkau.

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Website:

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Produksi dan Pengiriman

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Kantor Pemasaran

Jl. Puntodewo No. 2 Baron, Nganjuk Jawa Timur 64394

Diupload Oleh: Novia Lailia Fitria Khoirunnisa'

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WHATSAPP 0878-1086-0755 Cetak Buku Yasin Kalabahi

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السَّلاَمُ عَلَيْكُمْ وَرَحْمَةُ اللهِ وَبَرَكَاتُهُ

Selamat Datang di Pusat Cetak Buku Yasin dan Tahlil Berkualitas dan Termurah

Buku Surat Yasin biasanya dipesan untuk tahlilan dan souvenir memperingati 100 hari kematian saudara atau kerabat. Disini kami menyediakan Buku Yasin Murah yang bagus, kuat, eksklusif dan menyediakan berbagai desain sesuai pesanan dan kebutuhan Anda dengan harga yang terjangkau.

Hubungi : 0878-1086-0755 (24 Jam)

Website:

https://jualbukuyasin.com

Produksi dan Pengiriman

Sukolilo, Surabaya

Kantor Pemasaran

Jl. Puntodewo No. 2 Baron, Nganjuk Jawa Timur 64394

Diupload Oleh: Novia Lailia Fitria Khoirunnisa'

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Jadwal Kapal Pelni KM Sirimau Bulan April 2023

Travel.biz.id – Jadwal Kapal Pelni Sirimau + Harga Tiket Kapal Pelni Sirimau Kapal Pelni Sirimau, Jadwal Kapal Pelni KM Sirimau Bulan April 2023 Ini Mempunyai Rute Perjalanan Manokwari, Sorong, Ambon, Wanci, Bau-bau, Maumere, Lewoleba, Kupang, Kalabahi, Saumlaki, Tual, Dobo, Timika, Agats, dan Merauke, Apakah Anda bermaksud pergi ke pulau atau tempat tempat tersebut? Semoga Jadwal Kapal Sirimau…

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REMAJA MASJID AGUNG AL-FATAH MERIAHKAN KEGIATAN LOMBA NUZULUL QURAN KE-4 DENGAN PENUH KEBAHAGIAAN

Suasana kegembiraan dan kebahagiaan memenuhi Masjid Agung Al-Fatah ketika remaja masjid menggelar Lomba Nuzulul Quran ke-4 dengan mengusung tema terbinanya insan cendekia yang bernafaskan islam di era digital dimuali dari tanggal 25 maret 2024 sampai dengan 30 maret 2024 di dalam  masjid agung al-fatah kalabahi kegiatan ini berjalan dengan penuh semangat dan antusiasme yang luar biasa. Dalam…

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Dapatkan layanan konveksi terbaik hanya di Jasa Konveksi Willova! Kami menyediakan jasa konveksi profesional dengan kualitas terjamin untuk segala kebutuhan produksi jilbab dan pakaian Anda. Hubungi kami sekarang dan nikmati hasil terbaik dari Jasa Konveksi Willova!

Siap Kirim ke Seluruh Indonesia dan Mancanegara

Produk-produk yang tersedia di Jasa Konveksi Willova antara lain:

Pakaian custom

Seragam sekolah

Seragam kerja

Seragam organisasi

Pakaian olahraga

Baju promosi

Kaos distro

Jaket custom

Kemeja custom

Dress custom

Celana custom

Tas custom

Topi custom

Jasa sablon

Jasa bordir

Jasa cutting

Jasa jahit

Produksi massal

Pengadaan pakaian

Desain pakaian

Semua produk dan jasa di atas dapat dihasilkan dan disesuaikan dengan kebutuhan klien oleh Jasa Konveksi Willova.

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Contact Owner:

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Website:

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Diupload Oleh: Nanda Mefya

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G Map : https://goo.gl/maps/SP7TaxQeS15AJSZh6

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Info Harga Grosir, Partai Dan Promo Terbaru :

Ibu Delvina

Wa : 0813-1545-2710

Call : +62 813-1545-2710

Link Wa : https://wa.me/+6281315452710

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Kunjungki Kami Di : Youtube : https://www.youtube.com/@pgjofficialchannel

Tiktok : https://www.tiktok.com/@pgjofficialchannel

IG : https://www.instagram.com/pgjofficialchannel

FP : https://www.facebook.com/DistributorPerabotanSuggoIndonesia

Post By : Pak Widy

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Kami Juga Melayani Pembeli Dari : Provinsi NTT Meliputi : Kab Alor-Kalabahi, Kab Belu-Atambua, Kab Ende, Kab Flores Timur-Larantuka, Kab Kupang-Oelamasi, Kab Lembata-Lewoleba, Kab Malaka-Betun, Kab Manggarai-Ruteng, Kab Manggarai Barat-Labuan Bajo, Kab Manggarai Timur-Borong, Kab Nagekeo-Mbay, Kab Ngada-Bajawa, Kab Rote Ndao-Baa, Kab Sabu Raijua-Seba, Kab Sikka-Maumere, Kab Sumba Barat-Waikabubak, Kab Sumba Barat Daya-Tambolaka, Kab Sumba Tengah-Waibakul, Kab Sumba Timur-Waingapu, Kab Timor Tengah Selatan-Soe, Kab Timor Tengah Utara-Kefamenanu, Kota Kupang Dan Seluruh Kota Se-Indonesia.

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Klik http://wa.me/628529000935

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Grup Whatsapp bit.ly/universe01

universe-indonesia.com  | #GrowingTogether

Pakpak Bharat, Samosir, Serdang Bedagai, Simalungun, Tapanuli Selatan, Tapanuli Tengah, Tapanuli Utara, Toba Samosir, Binjai, Gunungsitoli