#15 Flowers That Are Easy to Grow From Seed | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

reasoningdaily · 1 year

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If you usually buy your flowers from the nursery, this year is a good time to switch things up and grow from seed! You’ll save money, get to see your seedlings from start to finish, and have lots of plants to fill your garden.

Growing from seed doesn’t have to be difficult. With some basic knowledge and a few tools to get started, anyone can have success growing their own beautiful flowers to line their flowerbeds in the spring. In fact, sowing seeds and recording their growth is a great activity to do with kids, and there are a number of different ways you can do it!

In this article, you’ll learn about what you’ll need for a basic seed-starting setup, as well as some of the most beginner-friendly flowers to grow from seed. So, let’s go! Your new flower garden starts right now!

Flowers to Direct Seed

Sow the seeds of the following flowers right into your garden beds outdoors! Many of these germinate better after a period of cold winter temperatures, called “cold stratification”. Keep in mind that all of these flowers can be grown indoors as well, but their germination rates may be impacted when started indoors.

Sweet Williams

Sweet Williams are a profusely flowering cottage garden favorite. These colorful little flowers reseed themselves. Plant them once, and you’re likely to have them in the garden for years to come! They will grow into a lovely patch of fringed flowers in hot pink to dainty blush over time.

Sweet Williams flowers will bloom all summer long and last for weeks when cut for the vase. If you prefer to grow them inside, plant seeds near a sunny window or under lights 6-8 weeks before your last frost. These mildly clove-scented little flowers are an easy way to bring lots of color to the garden!

Sunflowers

Sunflowers are pollinator favorites and produce delicious seeds! These popular and low-maintenance annual flowers are a garden favorite for many reasons.

There are many different types of sunflowers that bloom in a number of interesting shades. They grow in several different sizes and have many bloom forms. The classic ‘Helianthus annuus’ grows from 2 to 10 feet tall, depending on conditions.

Growing sunflowers is simple. Kids love planting their large seeds and watching them climb toward the sky. These beauties are native to the US and tolerant of drought, deer pressure, and poor soils.

They can be sown indoors and transplanted if you’d like an earlier bloom. However, direct sowing yields better results because they have a long taproot that doesn’t respond well to transplanting.

Hollyhock

Hollyhocks add dramatic vertical garden color. Each tall stalk can grow up to 10 feet, and their large, showy flowers open over an extended period. Plant them near the house or along a fence to provide support.

Hollyhocks grow easily and need no attention once they mature. They are biennial, meaning they concentrate on growing their roots, stems, and leaves in the first year and flower in the 2nd.

Once they flower, you can harvest the seeds or leave them to scatter on their own. They’ll reseed, giving you a gorgeous patch of constant flowers in the coming years.

Lance-leaved Coreopsis

This cheerful wildflower is native to parts of Canada and the US. It needs cold stratification, so you can direct sow as early as November. Loads of flowers with fluted bright yellow petals (sometimes with a maroon base) grow atop an upright, attractive plant.

Coreopsis attracts beneficial insects to the garden that will eat unwanted pests. It’s easy-going and self-seeds, making it a cinch to fill a garden bed or pot with lots of sunny garden color. Plant in full sun.

Blue Wood Aster

Blue wood aster grows into a 3 ft. tall bushy shrub covered with small lavender star-shaped flowers. It blooms in late summer or early fall, providing color as many other blooms begin to fade.

This US Native grows well in part shade and even puts up with dry conditions once established, making it a perfect choice for those difficult garden spots.

It’s a butterfly host plant and supports many specialist bees that can only feed on its nectar. It will spread, so plant it somewhere you’d like a swath of lavender color!

Penstemon Digitalis

Penstemon digitalis, or Foxglove Beard-tongue, is the beautiful wild cousin of garden foxglove. It has similar flower spikes, with pretty tubular flowers beloved by hummingbirds. Sow Penstemon digitalis in fall through late winter, and you’ll have blooms by early summer!

The snowy-white blooms are tinged with pink. They are long-lasting and look beautiful when planted en masse. Penstemon is rugged. It will put up with drought, clay soil, and harsh sun. In southern climates, it can be evergreen.

Bradbury’s Bee Balm

This flower is a member of the mint family, which spreads readily to form pretty flowering clumps of ivory to blush flowers. It’s native to the Eastern US but will grow readily anywhere with lots of sun and medium to dry soil.

The fluffy, ragged blooms are unusual and sometimes spotted with purple. They contrast well with the plant’s dark green foliage. Some gardeners like to harvest it to make mint tea. Plant ‘Bradbury’s Bee Balm’ in an informal area where it will have a bit of space to spread out.

Black-Eyed Susans

Black-Eyed Susans are a long-time favorite, with golden-yellow daisy-like flowers and deep brown centers. Some have an attractive burgundy floret in the center. Plants grow to about 3 ft. tall and have lance-shaped fuzzy leaves.

Rudbeckia hirta is another butterfly host plant. Like many natives, it will spread a bit if it likes the conditions. Direct seed in full sun fall through late winter, and look forward to lots of joyful golden blooms!

Shrubby St. John’s Wort

Did you know you could grow robust shrubs from seed? Shrubby St. John’s Wart is easy to grow and forms a 4 ft. shrub smothered in bright yellow flowers. Individual flowers are small, but they appear in such proliferation that the bush has visual impact in the garden.

The real stars are the prominent fluffy golden stamens, which add interest to the blooms. St. John’s Wort likes full sun. Rabbits and deer avoid it, while it’s an important nectar source for many native beneficial insects.

Commonly used as an herbal remedy, Shrubby St. John’s Wort makes a beautiful and easy low hedge when several are planted in a row.

Hungarian Breadseed Poppies

The delicate, papery blooms of the Hungarian Breadseed Poppy are breathtaking in the garden, especially when planted in large numbers. These hardy seeds can be sprinkled right onto the soil outdoors from November through February. They can even be thrown out on top of the snow!

As they start to sprout, the large blue-green leaves almost look like the start of a head of lettuce. Soon, long stems will produce big buds that open into white, lavender, or deep purple, with signature dark centers.

Best of all, Breadseed poppies have gorgeous ornamental seed pods that are striking in garden beds. They can be harvested to replant next year.

Nasturtium

In my book, nasturtium, with its huge lily-pad leaves and colorful blooms, is a garden essential. Not only is nasturtium easy to grow- it also provides benefits as a companion plant. Nasturtium attracts beneficial insects and makes the calcium in your soil more accessible to other plants.

The whole plant is edible and has a delicious peppery taste popular in salads. To plant nasturtium, sow the seeds directly into the garden (about ½ inch deep) about 2 weeks after your last frost.

They thrive on neglect, so once established, water only when the soil is dry. Soon you’ll have a rainbow of blooms!

‘Purple Sensation’ Allium

‘Purple Sensation’ Allium is simple to grow from seed planted directly outside in the fall. Come spring, they shoot up and produce showy globes of 50-plus deep purple flowers. They come back every year and produce lots of seedheads to increase your plants for free!

Alliums are beautiful and useful in the garden. They emit a mild oniony smell (they are in the onion family) that isn’t noticeable to humans but repels aphids and Japanese Beetle grubs.

These quirky plants are often grown from bulbs but are just as easily started from seed. A simple way to add eye-catching blooms to your garden beds!

Flowers to Start Indoors

Plant these seeds in seed trays or small pots with drainage. Keep them under grow lights or place them in a sunny window. To speed germination, provide humidity by covering pots with plastic wrap and uncover when sprouts appear.

Strawflower

If you love colorful long-lived blooms, Strawflowers are a must. They look a bit like fluffy daisies, with stiff paper-like petals that last forever.

Strawflowers come in a rainbow of colors, with warm shades of red, orange, hot pink, and yellow being the most popular. They provide lots of interest and easy color in the garden.

Strawflowers are simple to grow from seed. Plant them indoors 4-6 weeks before your last frost date and transplant them directly into the garden after temperatures have reached 70 ℉. They’ll bloom all summer through early fall and make great cut flowers!

China Asters

China Asters look fantastic in containers with other flowers. They fill a large pot beautifully and have robust 3-5 inch blooms. China Asters don’t need a lot of water and will last about 10 days in the vase.

They came in many bloom styles and colors, but I prefer the large pink peony-like blooms of ‘Rose Quartz Mix’. Whatever color palette you prefer, there’s a China Aster for you!

These grow easily from seed when planted indoors in small pots. Keep them evenly moist and transplant the seedlings after all danger of frost has passed.

‘Cupcake Blush’ Cosmos

Cosmos are a cinch to grow and provide lots of aesthetic value for little effort. They have lacy, fern-like foliage and large blooms that float above 2 ft. tall plants. Plant them inside 5-7 weeks before your last frost, and plant them in the garden in early spring.

‘Cupcakes Blush’ is a unique variety with large, pale pink blooms and an interior ring of tufted petals that look like cupcake wrappers.

For a bushier, more productive plant, grow them about 8 inches tall, then pinch back the growing tips right underneath a set of leaves. Soon, you will have more branching and more blooms!

Cosmos often reseed themselves in the garden, so look out for their little sprouts next spring.

Final Thoughts

Growing flowers from seed is the easiest and cheapest way to get a beautiful garden. There’s nothing like observing the growing process from seed to bloom, along with the pride of growing your garden all on your own!

If you haven’t tried starting with seeds before, these easy flowers are a great way to begin. Whether you decide to start your seeds indoors near a sunny window, have an elaborate setup with grow lights, or prefer to plant directly outdoors, there are varieties that will grow well for you. Enjoy your flowers!

#15 Flowers That Are Easy to Grow From Seed #gardening #grow from seed

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pokemonbiologyirlthetabletop · 1 year

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Slowpoke, Slowbro, & Slowking

Slowpoke (#079)

Lutritardus edulis edulis (OG)

Lutritardus edulis flavum (Galarian)

Slowpoke are a notoriously dim-witted Pokémon, and have record slow reactions to external stimuli. It takes up to five seconds to process pain, and it can take up to a day to even notice that it’s lost its tail! Also, they are known for being extremely forgetful

There are two official regional variants of Slowpoke and co., the original and the Galarian one. (G) Slowpoke are different from the originals in that they eat Galarica seeds, and the particles from these seeds collect in their bodies (specifically the heads and tails) giving them yellow tips, and will occasionally get a sharp look in their eyes that seems like they have thought of a something profound, but then it disappears.

Famously, Slowpokes lose their tails but they grow back quickly enough (takes about 2 weeks in the wild, but in captivity it grows back as quickly as 3 days).

Adult Slowpokes average at 3’11 feet (1.2 m) and 79.4 pounds (36 kg). They’re surprisingly large!

Habitat: They live around freshwater rivers and coastlines, or really wherever they can get easy food and Shellders are located. (G) Slowpokes and family are exclusively found on the Isle of Man, where Galarica flowers grow in abundance.

Life Cycles: Slowpoke live for around a decade in the wild, and two decades in captivity. Slowbro can live for thirty to forty years in the wild, and upwards of fifty years in captivity. Slowking, however, have been known to live for sixty years in the wild, and the oldest known Slowking in captivity lived to be 81 years old.

Slowpoke become reproductively mature at two years old (and level 15, of course). Their mating habits are confusing as nobody has ever noticed any particular courtship rituals from Slowpokes, but they obviously make decisions on who to mate with somehow. Slowbros and Slowkings are similarly mysterious in their mating habits.

Female Lutritardus spp. produce 5 to 7 babies per breeding cycle. Genetic analysis of wild rafts indicates that Slowpokes and co. will mate with many members of their raft with no to few exclusive pairings and with no particular concern over sex. In temperate climates, mating appears to occur during winter, when the Slowpokes are close together a lot. Parenting of infants appears to be a group effort. The same genetic analyses suggest that male Slowbros and Slowkings are slightly more popular as mates than male Slowpokes, though the difference seems to be only a little bit.

Pseudo-Evolution: Slowpoke evolution is strange, and generally considered to not be “true” evolution, in the sense that they don’t permanently change their form with glowy magic. There is glowy magic that alters their forms, but its lack of true permanency is what gives it a different classification. However, Pokémon scientists consider it a tomato-tomato thing, and will still call it evolution colloquially—though, it is officially called “pseudo-evolution.”

(G) Slowbro and (G) Slowking are dependent on being (G) Slowpokes. They do not require any weird items, unlike in the games. Nor does regular Slowking require a King’s Rock, instead only needing a Shellder to clamp to its head and co-evolve at level 37 or higher. However, King’s Rock is an item that humans have discovered can substitute for Shellders on Slowkings because of internal magic, but this does NOT work to produce (G) Slowkings.

Variants: If a Zebra Shellder clamps onto a Slowpoke, they become a new variant of Slowking/Slowbro. The Slowkings have metal helmets from their Shellders, and the Slowbros typically have their Shellders on their chests. Why did the Shellders evolve this biting habit? Nobody knows, but it’s certainly not an exclusive spot.

Zebra Slowkings are Psychic/Steel but can learn poison-type attacks, and Zebra Slowbros are Water/Steel. Zebra-Galarian Slowkings are also Psychic/Steel, while Zebra-Galarian Slowbro are Poison/Steel.

Worth noting, (G) Slowpokes are capable of being trained to reach incredible speeds.

Diet: Slowpokes and family eat fish, though are notoriously poor fishers. However, as they demonstrate, a patient fisher is a successful fisher. They also eat algae and freshwater bugs that float into their mouths.

Conservation: Least Concern for the original variant, and Vulnerable for the (G) variant found only on the Isle of Man, strictly because they have an extremely limited natural habitat that gets encroached upon by humans. They do exist in captive breeding programs but those programs can be difficult to maintain, since Galarica flowers only natively grow on the Isle of Man.

Relationship with Humans: Slowpoke are a popular Pokémon in modern media. They are much beloved Pokémon, though they are often the victims of hooligans. They make excellent companions.

Slowpoke Tail is considered a delicacy in many parts of the world, and is often found at specialty grocery stores. It is not considered unethical to eat *by many* because the Slowpokes supposedly don't feel the pain, and their tails grow back quickly. Some groups want Slowpoke Tail consumption banned, but at most it's gotten strict regulations.

Some peoples believe that Slowpoke’s yawn causes rain, and in these cultures they are revered.

The Lutritardus genus is a subject of great interest in Pokémon Evolution.

Taxonomy: Yes, its scientific name DOES mean "delicious dim-witted otter."

Slowbro

Lutritardus kelyfos kelyfos (OG)

Lutritardus kelyfos flavum (G)

Slowbro lack the capacity to feel pain because of the Shellder biting on its tail and releasing its venom. They are typically laid-back, unintelligent, and peaceful—preferring not to fight. The Shellder clamping on its delicious tail can sometimes inspire the Slowbro to have complex thoughts.

Galarian Slowbro, however, is notoriously unpredictable and highly dangerous. They are usually laid-back and peaceful like their counterparts, but when enemies approach the Shellder on its arm bites down, sending a jolt to its nervous system, which triggers indiscriminate attacking of its environment. (G) Slowbros have rapid draw arm blasts, putting to shame even the fastest of reflexes.

Both regional variants average at 5’03 feet, and (OG) Slowbro are around 173.1 pounds, and (G) Slowbro are 155.4 pounds. All forms of Slowbro can Mega Evolve! Their mega form has minimal variation between regional forms, only differing in typing that is respective of their regionality.

Habitat: They live along the water’s edge, such as lakes, ponds, seashores, and rivers. (G) Slowbros are only found on the Isle of Man.

Diet: Since it can no longer fish using its tail, Slowbro will swim after its prey. The scraps are fed to its Shellder.

Conservation: Least Concern, but the Galarian form is considered Vulnerable due to its only natural habitat being the Isle of Man.

Relationship with Humans: Slowbros are reasonably common in human society, since Slowpokes are frequent enough starter Pokémon because of their split evolution route. They’re easy enough to take care of, they’re laid back, and they’re reasonably good Pokémon to have on an adventuring party. The frequency of Slowbros as starters increases considerably in municipalities that live near wild Shellder populations.

Evolution: Slowpoke evolves into Slowbro starting at level 37 when a Shellder clamps onto an appendage that is specifically not the head. Regular Slowpokes typically have their tails bitten, and (G) Slowpokes typically have their arm bitten. The Zebra variants of both have the (Zebra) Shellder bite their chest, which forms a chest plate. All variants of Slowbro are capable of Mega Evolution.

Please do not remove the Shellder from a Slowbro.

Unofficial Variant: (Zebra) Slowbro is Psychic/Steel and (Galarian-Zebra) Slowbro is Poison/Steel. Be aware, that both are unofficial variants based on an unofficial regional variant of Shellder.

Slowking

Lutritardus coronatus coronatus (OG)

Lutritardus coronatus flavum (G)

Slowking have an ever-increasing intelligence caused by the Shellder venom interacting with its brain, which triggers a chemical chain-reaction that ultimately leads to unlocking great intelligence and extraordinary psychic powers. When it yawns, more venom is released. Its intuition is highly developed, and they’re able to figure out highly complex problems to degrees that are beyond the understandings of many. They are classified as Equivalently Human, and are even capable of human speech.

Galarian Slowkings experience a different chemical reaction from their Shellders, due to the Galarica spice particles in its brain. The Shellder achieves an awesome psychic power, and its mutualistic relationship between itself and the Slowpoke host becomes more parasitic, as the Shellder takes full control of the mind, rather than a co-partnership.

In some parts of the world, Slowking are known to match wits with Oranguru.

Habitat: They live along the water’s edge, such as lakes, ponds, seashores, and rivers. (G) Slowking are only found on the Isle of Man.

Diet: They eat fish, which they swim for or sit around and use their tails as bait for.

Conservation: Least Concern, but (G) Slowking are listed as Vulnerable because its only native habitat is the Isle of Man.

Relationship with Humans: Slowkings appear regularly enough in human society, usually as the evolved form of many trainers. There is a weird legal grey area, since the Slowking was originally acquired as a Slowpoke (which are not considered Equivalently Human in the slightest), but its status as Equivalently Human can cause some paperwork conundrums for trainers. Anyone who picks Slowpoke as a starter is warned about this, that should it evolve into Slowking the trainer must return to a Pokémon Center at their earliest convenience with their Slowking and fill out legal paperwork confirming that the Slowking consents to being in captivity and all that. This is usually fine, but bad trainers often lose their starter Slowking during this process, since the Slowking is able to voice its true feelings. A well-treated Slowking is a lifelong companion

Evolution: Slowking evolve from Slowpoke starting at level 37, and the Shellder bites its head instead of some other part of the body. A King’s Rock works too, but it is not required. If the Shellder is removed from its head (which is very difficult to do), then the Slowking reverts back to being a Slowpoke.

Unofficial Variants: (Zebra) Slowking and (Galarian-Zebra) Slowking are both Psychic/Steel, be aware that these are unofficial variants based on an unofficial regional variant of Shellder.

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Hey guess what, if you like my stuff, this is my website where you can find other Pokémon I've written on and more information about the game that I’m slowly making! Check it out! I write books sometimes too.

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balkanradfem · 1 year

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On the topic of that verbena plants you found, I got some last year for the first time, so feel like sharing how taking care of it went for me. I might just end up repeating what every article says, but hey, experience is always worth sharing, maybe you find some of it helpful!

Before I get into it though, I feel like clearing up some things related to it's name because I remember getting so annoyed at the inconsistencies when I was researching it. The scientific name is actually glandularia x hybrida, but most places will still refer to it as verbena x hybrida because it's only recently been reclassified. As for common names, I've mostly seen it being called annual verbena or trailing verbena.

Don't let the name fool you though! It's actually perennial! Mine from last year is still alive (and has survived powdery mildew, my cat peeing in the pot and I think even a spider mite attack)

It's also been very easy to propagate (read: I propagated it accidentally). It grows roots wherever it touches the ground, so all it takes is cutting it off the original plant once the roots have established a bit.

That or just taking a cutting and ploping it in soil. I think I broke mine off accidentaly somehow and just put it in the nearest soil I saw, which ended up being a 15 cm wide pot with some swedish ivy. The reason I go into so much detail is because later that summer it turned out I had apparently also put a watermelon seed in that pot the previous year and it decided to grow in this crowded space and actually produce fruit. And at this point the verbena cutting was in a better shape than the original plant despite the crowded setting (the original was fighting powdery mildew at this point).

I'll also mention I wasn't particularly attentive of the cutting at any point. I'd water it enough to keep the soil moist and that's about it.

Getting onto care in general, it loves lots of sun, and I mean LOTS (at least 8 hours preferably and it's not too fussed abot the scorching summer heat either). It'll do fine in part sun-part shade as well, but it'll get more leggy, though if it gets too wild it can be trimmed back and it'll resume flowering pretty soon.

As for watering, keep the soil moist. It's not the end of the world if the soil conpletely dries out and it starts looking really sad, it'll bounce back when you water it, but obviously it's best to avoid that.

I'd say the biggest problem for me was powdery mildew. I lost one plant to it (tips would be apprecited if anyone has any, because I tried all sorts of things and none helped enough to save it) and another got it near the base (I removed parts with it as best as I could but some of it still stayed, but apart from it just being there the plant wasn't affected anyway and it later just went away on it's own).

This is the biggest reason to not keep it in too much shade, the one that got the most light didn't get it. Though keep in mind I had a pretty crowded balcony which has pretty high side walls, so naturally also less space for air to circulate, which probably didn't help.

Hopefully I didn't forget anything and you find this helpful in some way!

Thank you, I really appreciate the experience! It's better to know what someone personally went thru with a plant than reading an article. I'll make sure to put the plants in a light and dry place!

Also it's weird they're using a wrong latin name for it, I don't usually hear that about plants. I googled glandularia x hybrida and it's pretty much the same thing. Verbena officialis is a wild plant here, so there can be mixups. It makes sense to call the cultivated plant another name.

#verbena #hlandularia x hybrida

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angolodonne · 2 years

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Tulipa is a genus in the Liliaceae family from Europe, western Asia to central Asia and North Africa.

There are about 100 species and thousands of cultivars.

The flowers are usually large, showy and brightly coloured, generally red, pink, yellow, or white (usually in warm colours).

They often have a different coloured blotch at the base of the tepals (petals and sepals, collectively), internally.

Cultivation of the tulip began in Iran (Persia), probably in the 10th century. The flowers were introduced into Western Europe and the Netherlands in the late 16th century.

In the beginning of the 17th century, the tulip was starting to be used as a garden decoration. It soon gained major popularity as a trading product, especially in Holland.

When to Plant Tulips

Tulip bulbs are typically planted around late summer and fall, in well-drained soils. The soil needs to have cooled off from the summer growing season before you plant.

Tulips should be planted 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 inches) apart from each other. The recommended hole depth is 10 to 20 cm (4 to 8 inches) deep, and is measured from the top of the bulb to the surface. Therefore, larger tulip bulbs would require deeper holes. Species tulips are normally planted deeper.

Although very popular, it is not always easy to grow.

Gardeners in warm climates find they do not have the cold temperatures required to initiate bloom and except for the first year after purchasing may only see leaves.

To continue to have blooming plants, bulbs must be lifted and refrigerated for 4 to 6 weeks before planting in late fall.

Water

Tulips need very little water. Water them well just once when planting, then you can forget about them until spring. The only exception is during extended periods of drought when you should water weekly to keep the ground moist.

Propagation

Propagating tulips is generally done by dividing offset bulblets as only species types come true from seed (produce flowers that look identical to those on the parent plant). It may take four to seven years, however, for those seedlings to grow large enough to flower.

Toxicity

Tulips are beautiful, popular flowers that many of us have in our gardens. But it's important to note that the Tulipa genus of flowers is toxic to cats, dogs, and horses and can be fatal if ingested.

#tulipani #tulips #tulip garden

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wealthypioneers · 2 years

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Exotic Rare Paulownia Tomentosa Fragrant Purple Empress Tree Seeds, Organic B25 Paulownia Tomentosa Fragrant Purple EMPRESS TREE Seeds / World's Fastest Growing Tree Count: ~ 25 Sun Exposure Full sun from an early age Light shade when young Frost Tolerance Severe Water Requirements Moderate Drought Tolerance Yes Wind Tolerance High Tolerance of Coastal Conditions Yes Botanical Nomenclature: Paulownia tomentosa Common Name: Princess Tree, Empress Tree Family: Scrophulariaceae Easy to grow from seed. Fragrant, fast-growing, drought and heat tolerant, disease and pest resistant. Will grow 8-15 feet the first year. Unlike most fast-growing trees, these are hardy and have a long life....85 to 100 years. Will grow in many varied conditions and in almost any type of soil. Will reach a height of 40-50 feet tall and a width of 30-40 feet. Purple, sweet vanilla-scented flowers appear in spring....in clusters 14 inches long. In summer they are covered in a dense canopy of large heart-shaped leaves.....making them wonderful shade trees. Winter finds them covered with furry pea-sized buds. At the first sign of spring, the tree explodes with purple flowers. The Royal Empress Tree (Paulownia elongata) is native to China but has found a welcome home in the U.S. as the world's fastest-growing shade tree. Many trees come and go as fads, and the Paulownia is one those. Although the Paulownia has become popular as a "Get Rich Quick" in the wood-growing market, they are popular for the shade and beautiful fragrant flowers they produce. There are several species of Paulownia - Paulownia elongata, Paulownia kawakamii, and Paulownia tomentosa, all native to China, and have been planted in the US for many years. There are several other names for this tree, Royal Paulownia, Empress Tree, and Princess Tree are among them. They are rated for Zones 6 to 10, and found from New York to western Texas, and along the Pacific coast states, and as far south as Key West. The southeastern states seem to have quite a lot planted also, as the climate is very favorable in stimulating the Paulownia's fast growth. What's popular about the Paulownia is that they grow very fast, where 8 to 12 feet a year is considered common, some sources have had growth of 15 to 18 feet in a year! The Paulownia also has large ten inch long masses of fragrant violet to dark blue flowers that come out between April and May. The Paulownia tends to be medium-sized trees, where the Paulownia kawakamii gets up to 30 to 40 feet, and the Paulownia tomentosa gets 40 to 60 feet tall. The Paulownia elongata is used as a timber tree in China, and gets upwards of 100 feet tall. A medium-sized, deciduous tree to about 15 m tall with large leaves and very attractive, bell-shaped, purple flowers. It is easy and fast-growing and a popular ornamental in warm temperate regions around the world. http://springsofeden.myshopify.com/products/exotic-rare-paulownia-tomentosa-fragrant-purple-empress-tree-seeds-organic-b25-1

#organic seeds #fruit seeds #rare seeds #ornamental #palms #palm tree seeds #Tropical Fruit Seeds #Princess tree #Empress Tree #Paulownia tomentosa #fragrant tree #fragrant flowering #shade tree seeds

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factorysdepot · 2 hours

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Effortless Plant Growth - Open Top Easy Grow Bags for Indoor & Outdoor Gardens

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With Factory Depot's Open Top Easy Grow Bags, you can experience the joy of gardening with minimal effort. So, unleash your green thumb and cultivate a thriving indoor or outdoor oasis with ease!

Read more on:https://factorysdepot.com/product/easy-grow-bag/

#factorys depot #coconut coir #coco coir #everan international #buy coconut coir #easy grow bag #Open Top Easy Grow Bags

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steven-moffat-more-like-satan · 9 days

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Autoflowering strains have become increasingly popular among cannabis cultivators, especially those who prefer growing outdoors. These strains are the best outdoor autoflower seeds chosen for their easy-to-grow nature, quick flowering time, and high yield. Best Outdoor Autoflower Seeds Strawberry Cheesecake AutoflowerStrawberry Cheesecake Auto results from a cross of Strawberry Banana Auto and Cheese Auto. This Indica-dominant wonder grows into medium-sized, robust plants, producing very good harvests of dense and resinous buds with good levels of THC.Mostly IndicaTHC - 15%Yield - 500 - 600 gr/plantFlowering Time - 12 Weeks from seedTaste/Flavour - Fruity | Lemon | Skunk | SweetEffect - Body | Physical | Powerful | Relaxing | StimulatingBuy on ILGMCheck SeedsmanGG4 (Gorilla Glue) AutoflowerThese Gorilla Glue autoflowering cannabis plants are guaranteed to flower with a small amount of maintenance. Gorilla Glue autoflower seeds produce compact plants, making this the perfect strain to grow in smaller grow sites. Even if the temperatures fluctuate in your grow room or... 23 Best Outdoor Autoflower Seeds: Outdoor Season 2023

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fiilme · 9 days

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deadpoolinside · 9 days

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mythingchild · 11 days

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Botany, Breeds and Varieties part 1

The avocado tree is an evergreen tree with an average height of 6 meters, but which can achieve up to 20 meters depending on the genotype .

The trunk of the tree is cylindrical, wavy, longitudinally grooved in the dark gray, with light and fragile wood, easy to break with the wind, and still has a low commercial value. The crown of the tree is dense, erect or distribute symmetrically. The leaves are alternate, petiolate with petioles from 15mm to 5 cm in length. The color of the leaves is reddish or beige when young and older green, leathery, 10-30 cm long and 3-10 cm wide, oval, lanceolate or elliptical, with an acuminate tip (Maranca, 1980; Koller, 1992).

The inflorescences of the avocado are axillary, appearing at the base of young shoots and grouped at the terminal part of the branches, acquiring the appearance of terminal panicles. The flowers are small, 5-15 mm in diameter, yellowish-green in color, with a characteristic odor and a short pedicel. The calyx of the flowers is yellowish green, with six sepals. The the corolla is absent. The stamens are 12 in number, divided into four groups of three, with nine functional staminoids and three of asymmetric length, with the longest internal stamens (Maranca, 1980).

The ovary is unicarpellar and uniovular, with a stigma and a disc-shaped stylus. The fruit is a fleshy monocarp berry formed by membranous epicarp(crust), leathery, mesocarp (pulp) with a butter

consistency and endocarp (structure surrounding the seed). The form can varies between oval, pyriform or rounded and the external color may vary between green, brown or purple. The seed, also known as the "core", presents itself one in number per fruit, large in size, ovoid in shape, brown in

colored and protected by the endocarp (Teixeira et al., 1992).

Systematically the avocado belongs to the botanical family of the Lauraceae, be included in the genus Persea, which covers about 150 species, with a center of origin in Mexico and Central America. This is the reason why the vast majority of species in the genus are found in tropical America and temperate America and only four described species are found in the Amazon (Montenegro, 1951; Maranca, 1980; Koller, 1992).

The genus Persea can be divided into two subgenera: Perseae Oreodaphne (Koller, 1992), however, Persea americana., which is the species considered the most important due to its value in fruit growing. He is found in the subgenus Persea (Canto, 1978; Koller, 1992) and Persea drymifolia, which for some time was considered a species, and gave birth to the avocado breed known as the Mexicana, currently adapted as a botanical variety of P. americana.

In addition to the Mexican breed, as mentioned above, the avocado the varieties can be classified agronomically into two other breeds, totaling three distinct races: Mexicana, Guatelmalteca and Antilhana, which botanically correspond to the botanical varieties of the Persea americana-var mill.

Drymifolia, Mill in Persea americana, var. Mill Americana and Persea nubigena. var. guatemalan.

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evergladesfarm · 18 days

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How to Grow a Noni Tree?

The Noni tree is an evergreen tree whose fruit is called noni fruit or cheese fruit. This little noni fruit contains all the nutrients and health-promoting components. There are various ways in which humans use them to curb inflammation, improve their immune system, and get other great health benefits.

But here's the most amazing part - you can actually grow your own noni plantation full of noni trees and use it as a little side income! The demand for products made from noni fruit seeds is just skyrocketing as more people discover how awesome they are.

Getting started is pretty easy too. All you need are some good quality noni plant seeds to get your noni trees going. Let's discuss some tips for growing noni plant seeds into thriving noni trees.

Getting the Noni Seeds

The first step is sourcing some viable noni seeds. Look for fully ripe noni fruits - they'll be a little wrinkly and yellow. Carefully extract the seeds inside, clean off any pulp, and let them dry completely. These will be your precious noni seeds for planting.

Next up, you'll want to prepare the soil for sowing those noni seeds. Early spring or summer is the prime noni fruit planting season. Mix up a well-draining soil blend in some pots or trays. Bury the noni seeds about an inch deep, and you're good to go!

Caring for Your Noni Seedlings

In just a few weeks, you'll see those little noni seedlings poking through the soil. Isn't that exciting? Place them in an area with nice bright, indirect light - direct sun can scorch them.

Keep the soil consistently moist but not soaking wet. And be on the lookout for any pesky bug visitors. A simple insecticidal soap spray will take care of them without harming your precious noni plant babies.

Transplanting Time

After 6-8 weeks, your noni seedlingswill be sturdy enough for transplanting into their permanent homes. You can either pot them up into larger containers or plant them directly in the ground.

If going in-ground, space the noni fruit plants about 10-15 feet apart so they have room to spread out. With regular care, these little guys will reward you by growing into full noni fruit trees loaded with nutritious fruits!

Of course, if you'd rather skip the seedling stage, you can always look for noni trees for sale online or at a nursery. But there's something so rewarding about growing them from noni seeds!

So your little noni seedlings are all transplanted and getting established - awesome! Now the real fun begins as you help these plants thrive into full-grown fruit-bearing noni trees. Here are some key tips:

Noni Tree Care

Once those noni trees are in the ground, they'll need a good deep watering session about once a week. We're talking about a nice long drink that really soaks down into those extensive noni roots. Staying on top of that deep watering schedule is clutch.

As your trees mature year after year, you'll want to prune them back annually too. A light pruning helps control sizing and shape while removing any overcrowded or unhealthy branches. Gotta keep those noni trees looking their best!

Noni trees can occasionally get attacked by pests like aphids, mites, and fungi. Using an organic pesticide formulated for noni fruit plants is the way to go to keep those nuisances away naturally.

Harvesting Time!

After all that nurturing, you finally get to reap the rewards - fresh homegrown noni fruits! The trees will flower first, and then around 8-10 months later, those little green fruits will start developing that distinctive yellow, dented appearance as they ripen up.

You'll also start to get whiffs of that pungent noni aroma when they're getting close. That's your cue to do the squeeze test - harvest them once they've softened up just slightly but still have that firmness. Perfectly ripe and nutritious!

Conclusion

Looking for an affordable, high-quality noni tree for sale? Choose Everglades Farm! We offer the best noni plants around at unbeatable prices.

With over 50 years of experience growing and shipping tropical trees, you can count on us. We have thousands of noni trees available for pickup or super-fast shipping right to your door.

We have a wide variety of plants on sale like pepper plants for sale, plantain plants for sale, santol plants for sale, Spanish lime trees for sale, and more!

We guarantee lush, thriving noni trees that will flourish in your care. Let us provide you with the absolute best for your noni growing needs!

Disclaimer- The information provided in this content is just for educational purposes and is written by a professional writer. Consult us to learn more about how to grow a noni tree.

#noni tree for sale #noni fruit plant for sale

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athulyaaindia · 2 months

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Marriage Return Gifts Under Rs 200: Thoughtful and Budget-Friendly Options

Finding the perfect return gifts for a wedding can be a delightful yet challenging task, especially when you have a budget in mind. If you're looking for thoughtful and budget-friendly options under Rs 200, here are some ideas that will leave a lasting impression on your guests:

1. Decorative Candles:

Candles are a classic choice that adds warmth to any home.

marriage return gifts under rs 200 designed tea-light candles or scented candles in decorative holders.

They not only serve as a gift but also as a piece of home decor.

2. Plant Saplings:

Give the gift of greenery with small plant saplings.

Succulents, money plants, or small flowering plants are not only budget-friendly but also symbolize growth and prosperity.

3. Customized Keychains:

Personalized keychains with initials or names make for a thoughtful and practical gift.

They are small, easy to carry, and serve as a reminder of the special occasion.

4. Handmade Soaps:

Handcrafted soaps are a luxurious yet affordable option.

Choose from a variety of scents and designs, such as natural herbs or floral patterns.

5. Mugs or Coasters:

Customized mugs or coasters with the couple's initials or a thank-you message are both practical and sentimental.

Guests can use them daily and remember the wedding every time they do.

6. Mini Photo Frames:

Miniature photo frames are a charming way for guests to display their favorite memories.

Look for small, elegant frames that guests can place on their desks or shelves.

7. Herbal Tea Packets:

A set of herbal tea packets in various flavors is a soothing and health-conscious gift.

Guests can enjoy a relaxing cup of tea while reminiscing about the wedding.

8. Scented Potpourri Sachets:

Potpourri sachets filled with fragrant dried flowers and spices are a delightful addition to any room.

They add a touch of aroma and charm to closets, drawers, or even cars.

9. Bookmarks:

For book lovers, bookmarks with inspirational quotes or elegant designs are a thoughtful gesture.

They can be a constant reminder of the special day every time they pick up a book.

10. Hand Fans:

If the wedding is during the warmer months, hand fans are a practical and stylish gift.

Look for decorative hand fans that guests can use to cool off during outdoor events.

11. Kitchen Gadgets:

Small kitchen gadgets like bottle openers, tea infusers, or measuring spoons are useful and budget-friendly.

Choose fun and colorful designs to add a touch of whimsy.

12. Tote Bags:

Eco-friendly tote bags are not only practical but also environmentally conscious.

Guests can use them for grocery shopping or as a carry-all for everyday items.

13. Cookie Cutters:

For guests with a sweet tooth, cookie cutters in fun shapes are a creative gift.

Include a simple cookie recipe for an added personal touch.

14. Pocket Mirrors:

Compact pocket mirrors with decorative designs or quirky messages are handy and cute.

They fit easily into purses or pockets for on-the-go touch-ups.

15. Seed Packets:

Give the gift of gardening with small seed packets of flowers or herbs.

Guests can plant them and watch them grow, creating lasting memories of the wedding.

Conclusion:

With these thoughtful and budget-friendly return gift ideas under Rs 200, you can express your gratitude to your wedding guests without breaking the bank. Whether it's a practical item or a sentimental keepsake, these gifts are sure to be appreciated and cherished long after the celebration is over. Remember, it's the thought and gesture that counts, and these gifts convey your heartfelt thanks for sharing in your special day.

For more info. visit us:

return gifts below 50 rupees for pooja

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varamahalakshmi return gifts

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pokemonbiologyirlthetabletop · 2 years

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Slowpoke (#79)

Lutritardus edulis edulis (OG) Slowpoke Lutritardus edulis flavum (G) Slowpoke

Lutritardus kelyfos kelyfos (OG) Slowbro Lutritardus kelyfos flavum (G) Slowbro Lutritardus coronatus coronatus (OG) Slowking Lutritardus coronatus flavum (G) Slowking

Famously, Slowpokes lose their tails but they grow back quickly enough (takes about 2 weeks in the wild, but in captivity it grows back as quickly as 3 days).

Adult Slowpokes average at 3’11 feet (1.2 m) and 79.4 pounds (36 kg). They’re surprisingly large!

Worth noting, (G) Slowpokes are capable of being trained to reach incredible speeds.

Relationship with Humans: Slowpoke are a popular Pokémon in modern media. They are much beloved Pokémon, though they are often the victims of hooligans. They make excellent companions.

Some peoples believe that Slowpoke’s yawn causes rain, and in these cultures they are revered.

The Lutritardus genus is a subject of great interest in Pokémon Evolution.

#delicious dim witted otter #pokemon #pokemon biology #pokemon biology irl #pokemon irl #pokemon irl tabletop #pokemon tabletop #tabletop #ttrpg #tabletop homebrew #homebrew #slowpoke #yes its scientific name DOES mean fight me #personally i'm not convinced that slowpokes genuinely don't feel pain when they lose their tails BUT I'm leaving it open ended #does nobody think its a little fucked up you can cook with slowpoke tails in SwSh and then feed it to a Slowpoke like #thats fucked up right #like as a meat eater that seems kinda messed up

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gardendrifts · 2 months

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5 Easy Steps to Start Your Own Flower Bed Today

5 Easy Steps to Start Your Own Flower Bed Today. Looking to beautify your outdoor space with colorful flowers?

5 Easy Steps to Start Your Own Flower Bed Today

5 Easy Steps to Start Your Own Flower Bed Today. the right location 5 Easy Steps to Start Your Own Flower Bed Today

How to Start a Flower Bed: A Beginner's Guide to Creating a Beautiful Garden

Flower beds are a wonderful way to add color and life to your outdoor space. Not only do they provide a lovely visual appeal, but they also attract pollinators and can even improve the soil quality in your garden. However, starting a flower bed may seem like a daunting task for those with little to no gardening experience. But fear not, this guide will walk you through the steps to create a stunning flower bed that meets Google's requirements for helpful content updates.

What is a Flower Bed?

In simple terms, a flower bed is an area of your garden that is dedicated to growing various types of flowers, plants, and shrubs. It is usually created in a specific shape or design and is filled with nutrient-rich soil to help these plants grow and thrive. Flower beds can range in size and complexity, from a simple rectangular patch of flowers to a more intricate design with multiple levels and layers.

Why Should You Start a Flower Bed?

Flower beds are not only aesthetically pleasing but also serve many practical purposes. Some of the benefits of having a flower bed in your garden include:

Aesthetic Appeal

Flower beds add color and beauty to your outdoor space, making it more visually appealing.

They can be designed to fit your personal style and taste, making your garden a reflection of your personality.

Attract Pollinators

Flowers are essential for attracting pollinators, such as bees, butterflies, and birds, to your garden.

This helps with the pollination and fertilization of plants, which is vital for their growth and reproduction.

Improve Soil Quality

Flower beds add organic matter to the soil, increasing its fertility and improving drainage and aeration.

They also prevent soil erosion and can help suppress weeds.

Cost-Effective

Flower beds can be created on a budget, as you can grow your own plants from seeds or purchase them at a much lower cost than buying established ones.

They also require less upkeep and maintenance compared to other landscaping features, making them a cost-effective option in the long run.

15 Steps to Starting a Flower Bed

Now that you know the benefits of having a flower bed in your garden, let's dive into the steps on how to start one. Follow these 15 steps to create a beautiful and thriving flower bed that meets Google's requirements for helpful content updates.

Step 1: Choose the Location

The first step to starting a flower bed is choosing the right location in your garden. Consider the amount of sunlight, drainage, and soil quality in the area to make sure it is suitable for the plants you want to grow. Most flowers require 6-8 hours of sunlight per day, so make sure the location you choose receives enough sunlight.

Step 2: Decide on the Shape and Size

The shape and size of your flower bed will depend on your personal preference and the available space in your garden.

You can stick to traditional rectangular or circular shapes or get creative with more intricate designs. Just make sure the size and shape of your flower bed are proportionate to the surrounding area and fit well with your landscape.

Step 3: Gather Supplies

Before you start digging, make sure you have all the necessary supplies. These include a garden shovel, rake, gloves, compost, mulch, and, of course, the flowers and plants you want to grow.

Step 4: Clear the Area

Once you have chosen the location and gathered all the supplies, it's time to start clearing the area. Remove any grass, weeds, or debris from the site. You can use a garden hoe to make this task more manageable.

Step 5: Prepare the Soil

Proper soil preparation is crucial for the success of your flower bed. Use a garden shovel to loosen up the soil and add organic matter, such as compost, to improve its quality. You can also add a layer of mulch to help with moisture retention and weed suppression.

Step 6: Create a Border

Creating a border for your flower bed is not only for aesthetic purposes but also helps keep the plants contained. You can use stones, bricks, or wooden edging to create a border around the edges of your flower bed.

Step 7: Arrange Plants

Before planting, it's a good idea to arrange the flowers and plants on top of the soil to get a visual of how they will look once planted. This will help you plan the placement of different plants and ensure they are evenly distributed.

Step 8: Plant the Flowers

Now it's time to start planting! Dig a hole in the prepared soil and carefully place the flower or plant in the hole. Gently fill it with soil and pat it down to secure the plant in place. Repeat this process for all the flowers and plants in your arrangement.

Step 9: Water the Plants

After planting, make sure to water your flower bed thoroughly. This will help settle the soil around the roots of your plants and ensure they have enough moisture to start growing.

#gardendrift #garden design

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jensownzoo · 1 year

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Okay I finished phase 5, the final phase, of the replacing part of the front lawn with a garden bed project exactly a week ago. Though I was ELATED to be done, at that point we hadn’t had any significant rain for nearly four weeks (everyone surrounding the city had had plenty—just that weird warming column that comes from so much asphalt and concrete dried up every storm that passed over :-/) and with a clay-and-fill-rock soil that I was literally breaking up by hand...well I couldn’t move my hands for typing up a post for some time afterwards! But here it is:

The eggplants look a little sad about being transplanted, but they’ve since recovered. I’ve got four varieties—Black Beauty, Ping Tung, Antigua, and Thai Frog’s Egg—to give me a nice mix. I interplanted with clover, nasturtium, and candytuft. Then on the slope down to the sidewalk (bordered by some salvaged concrete edgers colored with teal concrete stain I picked up on clearance years ago), I basically threw every seed I had that was over 8 years old. Mostly flowers and herbs, but it will be an interesting mix. There were so many seeds that if even 1% germinate, that slope will be packed. Which will help with the erosion that would happen otherwise.

I had some old panels of wire fencing that I installed in two offset rows behind the edgers to keep people and dogs from walking on the loosened soil. Also found two pieces of pound-in plastic edging that had a serrated-style bottom—which due to my rock problem didn’t “pound in” but I had to make a trench—that I put in along the side with the grass to help keep the zoysia from immediately crawling over into the much nicer fertilized area.

Anyway, we finally got a bit of rain this week, and just in time too since I’ve been hand-watering with buckets of water from the rain barrels and they’d run completely dry the day before. We had a storm yesterday that completely filled all three of them, so I’m feeling much less anxious. The tomatoes LOVED the rain—just look at how much they’ve shot up in only a week:

You can see that I had to start the Florida weave, which is going really well in the front row since I managed to get those tomatoes planted in a straight line. I was going for a vee in the back two rows, but ended up with curves which is not working well for the weave. I think it will fix itself as the plants grow taller though.

The nice straight row:

And the rows that you can laugh at:

But even though getting this garden bed in and planted is done, I still have related projects to accomplish, namely:

I think my dad gave me the barrels something like 15 years ago to convert into rain barrels. At the time I didn’t have the know-how nor easy internet access so they ended up shoved in the garage (and I bought pre-made ones later). Dragged them out and gave them a base coat of brown spray paint to prevent algae growth (since they were translucent white). I’ve got the bulkheads and a hole saw on order. I’ve got old screening and roughly a 1/4 tube of silicone (leftover from the diy olla project). I know I have at least one spigot, but I need to look through my plumbing supplies a little more closely. Anyway, one of the barrels held Mountain Dew syrup and I’ll be putting that one on the front porch to water the new garden bed. I’m going to have to reroute a downspout for it though since all mine currently dump at the rear of the house. The other held industrial cleaner and will be reserved for scrubbing out pots and similar. I kinda wanted to get this all done before the heat and mosquitoes arrived, but oh well.

#gardening #new garden bed #florida weave #tomatoes #eggplants #rain barrels #completed project #new project

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benchmarkbioponics · 1 year

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Propagation Tray With Thermostat | Benchmark Bioponics

Seeds and cuttings germinate more successfully and root faster with a heated propagator. They can be used in homes or polytunnels and are also great for windowsills.

Insulated soil heating cables gently warm the growing medium - and are controlled by a thermostat to reach and maintain the ideal temperature. They can be plugged into general household electrical circuits up to 15 amps.

Temperature Control

The temperature control feature allows you to regulate the temperature at the soil level - it's ideal for seedlings. While the mat itself frequently warms up above ambient room temperature a probe wire in the soil keeps temperatures stable at your pre-set ideal germination range which is usually listed on the back of seed packets or online. Be sure to check the mat often and water only as needed because it can dry out the soil quickly.

This heat mat is a great way to raise and germinate seeds, exotic plants, flowers, vegetables and herbs all year round indoors. It can raise the temperature of your soil up to 20 degrees above room temperature which is suitable for most varieties and encourages root cell initiation. It has a low operating cost and can be used on a timer. Fits two standard propagation trays. It has a clear plastic dome top with three vents which creates a greenhouse effect. Made in Australia. 2 year manufacturer warranty.

Thermostat & Power Supply

Heated propagation mats work best in a warm environment like a greenhouse or room. Outside of this they are only able to raise the soil temperature 10-20 degrees above the ambient air temperature. This can be insufficient for some seed types or even for some cuttings, especially if you are trying to germinate outdoors.

The Epic heat mat does not have the ability to control a set temperature as some other heating mats do, however this is generally not necessary for seed starting or early plant development. It does have a clear plastic dome that covers the tray and allows you to vent the top, creating a mini greenhouse effect.

To operate the thermostat simply plug it into a power outlet and the POWER LED will light. Next press the SET button to display the set temperature (preset) in either Fahrenheit or Celsius. Use the up or down buttons to increase or decrease the temperature as needed.

Thermostat Probe

A thermostat probe allows you to monitor the soil temperature directly beneath the propagation mat. This is very important as the mat may raise the overall soil temperature by 10-20 degrees above ambient room temperature but if the trays are placed in a cool area (like a garage or shed) the actual soil temperature can drop below what the heat mat can compensate for. A temperature probe allows you to monitor this and adjust the mat's setting accordingly.

This unit's digital display makes it easy to set your desired bottom heating temperature. Simply press SET to view the current target temperature and hold SET for three seconds to program a new target temperature. Press SET again to confirm the setting.

Plug the power supply plug into an outlet near your seed starting station and the probe wire into a cell of a 1020 tray. Place a dome cover over the seed tray to retain some warmth and humidity. Use a kitchen or soil thermometer to check the temperature of your growing medium once per day and adjust the thermostat as needed.

Bottom Watering Tray

Heated propagation trays allow you to grow seedlings, exotic plants, flowers, vegetables and herbs all year round. The digital thermostat and heating mat combo provides bottom heat to a desired temperature for your specific plant/seed type.

The trays are made from heavy duty materials and are durable for long term use. The cell trays are generously sized so that multiple seeds/clones can be planted in the same tray to avoid variety mix ups. Each cell is marked with a unique alphanumeric grid to enable easy identification of each individual seed/clone, which makes transplanting and growing out simple and stress free.

The tray comes with a built in watering tray to catch and dispense excess water from the bottom of your seed trays. This allows the soil to gently wick up water over time and prevents flooding which can wash away tiny seeds and cause mold/fungus growth. The watering tray also fits all our CD60 & 40L module trays perfectly to protect furniture and reduce the risk of water damage to window sills and counters.

#Carbon Filters For Sale #Buy Carbon Filter Online #Heat N Grow Australia #Propagation Tray With Thermostat #Heated Propagation Tray #Pot Saucers #Pot Saucers For Plants

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