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jennaseniorprojectblog · 2 years

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Project progress update 2

A lot has happened these last couple weeks. As I’ve been working I’ve been taking notes and screenshots here and there to record my progress. Here is what I’ve been up to.

Designing, and posing characters Weeks 4-6

9/11/22

I posed my first character Adda and took pictures. For all my other characters, I use the same process once I finished their hair and clothes. I hit the photo icon on the top right of Vroid Studio to start. When taking pictures of your Vroid model, you can put it in pose mode. I did this to move the character up, frame the camera around them, and pose them. I also adjusted the picture size to a width - of 881 height - of 720. Then I made the background color #04F404. This makes it special effects green color that you can remove to have a transparent background. I save that pose, name it character (mood) bring the image to - https://www.remove.bg/upload to get rid of the background. Then I save that photo to the respective asset folder I made for that character (character name expressions).

Uploaded assets to Headkanon.com. (Plus google drive)

- note about Adda’s design its supposed to be fun and dynamic like her.

9/12/22

I discovered you can recolor texture using color calibration

Saving different variations of eyes and skin for each character

https://vroid.pixiv.help/hc/en-us/articles/4405438979225

9/16/22

I created Bindi's hair from scratch using the presets I initially used as a reference. It took me a while to figure out how to do a braid. I used one of my failed attempts at braiding as a part of Bindi's design. Now she has braided hair and twisty hair.

Image of me posing Bindi (9/19/22)

For Bindi's dress I exported the guide and design template

Brought them together in Krita

Exported again as jpeg

I emailed it to myself to use as a guide in ibis paint Then I sent it back and put it in Vroid.

Bindi is supposed to be in cosplay. I don't have her cosplaying as anything specifically, but I did want to her clothes to seem like that of a fantasy character. I randomly decided to go with a fairy princess flower theme.

I also worked on other two main character’s Niko and Kaleo's shirts.

Like I did with Adda, I am continuing this practice with other characters, bringing in the design from my phone and getting it to fit in the UV map. I'm using different techniques to get the design to fit. For Adda's shirt, I warped the perspective; however, for this shirt, I'm doing a different warp technique where I grab different points and stretch the shirt in different directions. By doing this, I can ensure that when I bring this texture to Vroid, the shirt will be in the correct place to display over the shirt. I'm also using liquify, which essentially spreads the shirt more freely.

I tried a different approach for the Mom's shirt. I did her design in vroid studio, then copied the layer multiple times, applying various effects like lighten, darken, etc. I also used the teardrop blur brush to make things look better. The lines are not as lovely when drawn on the computer.

I like how it came out.

For the Mom's design, I unconsciously used my Moms two favorite colors (black and red) and her birthday as an inspiration. I also used the color pink with hearts because my Mom was born on Valentine's day, and pink is just a cute color to have with hearts.

Within Week 5, I finished posing the main characters since their shirts and hair were done.

This is how I felt while doing it. It's really not the same as posing a character with rig controls in Blender.

- Kaleo's hair, as you can see above was kind of tricky to design. I wanted it to look thick and poofy and have a lion mane look. I also adjusted his face to look more Hawaiian.I looked up images of Hawaiian guys and used random pictures as a reference.

- Kaleo shirt has a lot of triangles in the design; this was inspired by the traditional patterns Hawaiians would stamp on Kapa cloth There is also a lion in the center, which references the character's name and love for lions.

This is how I felt when I finished doing it.

Niko's shirt is not too flashy. I used cool colors. This reflects how Niko wants to be calm and not draw attention to himself. The effects and brushes I used give the shirt a fluffy texture. Niko wants to be comfortable, and his clothes reflect that.

Now for the side characters. 9/24/22

I decided to make Edwardo's shirt in vroid. I made his hair thick which is somewhat plot significant.To me, he looks like a popular kid in school

I made this design a while back in ibis paint. I brought it into Krita, ensured it covered the shirt area, and then imported it into vroid. I was thinking along the lines of Hawaiian shirt/Japanese aesthetics, which ended up fitting the boss character who I made Japanese. Fall is a significant season; it reflects impermanence as the leaves change color and dry up. Granted, in Hawaii, we don't experience this. I'm a huge fan of autumn leaves, and Ibis paint had a leaf brush that I went crazy with. Note that the purple at the bottom is supposed to be transparent; however, when I save it as a jpeg, it turns out like that. If you bring a png into vroid, the design will look faded, so I save them as a jpeg to keep the design looking vibrant.

I Did the same thing for Bella's design. I made it in ibis paint. I should note that I was able to achieve this pattern by using the symmetry kaleidoscope tool. In other words, you have a bunch of lines repeating ray-like lines, and when you draw between these lines a pattern. The pattern you draw is then repeated several times over. I also really love getting crazy with different effects like glow, bevel, color contrast, etc.

Rather than doing what I did with the boss's shirt, I decided to have the design overlap itself. The small square design on top covers the torso portion of Bella's dress, and then behind it, the rest of the dress is covered by a larger design. Then like I have for the other designs made outside of vroid, I took this design along with an exported UV map of Bella's dress and ensured the design covered the entire area. This was a bit of a gamble, but when I brought it into vroid, it looked pretty good, to my relief.

9/25/22

Keyon's shirt was made in vroid. I was trying to make a plaid shirt. It doesn't look plaid, but it looks good.

Cara's design, like Bella's, was a case of me having fun with the symmetry kaleidoscope tool. You can adjust the number of times the design repeats. You can also turn it off and add to it, which I did. Like I did with Kaleo's shirt, the design fits within the main body of the shirt, so I have to use the liquify tool to spread it outwards for the sleeves to be covered.

I had to add some props to some of the character expressions. I started with Kaleo, whose pose calls for taking notes with a pencil and notebook. I used this method several times of selecting the hand in the original layer, then going back to the layer with the object in it and erasing the highlighted part so that their hand looks like it's going over the object.

Some other examples

Editing the story

- Story 1 Has been reviewed once over by people I know. (Sep 11-12) Poll questions were modified. A psychologist I know pointed out that people don't want to look bad when publicly choosing an answer. The way I wrote some of my questions made it seem like you'd be a jerk if you didn't put a specific answer. She suggested I have some questions not be multiple choice, so the viewer has to type in a response. I also got help from my brother, a law school student (writing is his bread and butter) plus, he was once an editor for a college magazine, so he gave me some tips on grammar/wording. On top of that, I use a program called Grammarly.

-I also went through the script of story 3 with my brother (Sep 21). I changed the poll's wording and audience response options and went to the other stories to tweak them. I also checked with Grammarly for the first two stories to see how many seconds it takes to read each part and their respective poll questions. So far, each part is under the max 90 seconds, except for one part that is 3 seconds over. Now I'm just reviewing all four stories and editing the grammar and tone.

Poll questions

As I mentioned in my previous update, I got some excellent advice from UH West Oahu's Gloria Niles before I started writing my questions. She advised that I use the questions to ask the audience how they would feel if they were the character in the story or if it was someone they knew. Perspective-taking is the key. If I can get the audience to understand the character and imagine what it's like to be them or know them. Ideally, that will cultivate some understanding. Another thing I was advised to do is address the disability that's being represented. So I also made questions that say this character has such and such and explored that within the question. By that, I mean encouraging the audience to imagine what it's like or describe how they would feel. For example, one of my questions for story 3, which talks about autism, is this - "How would you feel if you were Kaleo and had no idea why people were annoyed with you? What would you do?" When you have trouble reading nonverbal cues, as some folks with autism do, it gets confusing. I'm fluent in vocal English, but my silent English isn't great. It's almost like you are a foreigner in your own home.

Finally, yesterday I changed the dialogue box to a default option that mimics subtitles.

With all the character’s done now, what I need to do by week 8 Oct 11th.

1. Get approval

2. Finish editing the stories

3. Change the expressions of the characters throughout the story - would write a cue in the script like - Adda happy.

4. Get some background images

5. Record each clip to bring to Instagram

Finally, I will keep doing my best.

#character design #senior project #vroid #neurodiversity project #cm490

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songuserbox · 2 years

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how to make a userbox

a long time ago I said a magician never reveals their secrets but considering the fact that I’ve been really bad about making userboxes in the past few years (this blog has existed since 2016 and has almost 4,000 followers) I figured it was time to write a tutorial on how to make your own userboxes.

fun fact - userboxes were originally for Wikipedia accounts.

THINGS TO NOTE:

text must start with “This user”.

some helpful things to know if you don't already: cntrl + a = select all (helpful for urls), cntrl + c = copy, cntrl + v = paste, cntrl + z = undo

MEMORIZE THIS CODE:

so let’s say you want to make a userbox that says “This user likes trees.” the method is different for pc and mobile, so I’ll start with pc:

the first step is to go to https://www.yerich.net/userbox/. then open a new tab and google “tree png” or “tree transparent” and find an image with a transparent background (tip: I’ve found that truly transparent photos appear white in the background, but if you click on it, become checkered. they are probably not actually transparent if they already have a checkered background or don’t turn checkered after you select it. also, if an icon is hard to find, I recommend https://thenounproject.com/). once you find one you like, right click the image and click “open image in new tab”. that should open up a page with the url for your image. copy that (cntrl + a & cntrl + c) and come back to yerich.net.

in the top bar that is titled “left box”, type in the code i mentioned and paste the url in-between the quotations (cntrl + v). if you did it correctly, the image you selected should appear in the left box.

now go to the bar right under it, titled right box. type “This user likes trees.” this should reflect immediately in the right box of the userbox.

now for colors! there are three ways to do this:

on yerich.net there is a tab that says “select color scheme” that has some presets to choose from.

google “color picker” and use that to find more precise colors, then copy the hex code (starts with a hashtag “#” and is 6 digits long). then you can paste it wherever you want: border color, left box color, right box color, or left (info) text. this method is better for getting custom colors, especially ones that match the image. (some hex codes to memorize: #fff - white, #000 - black, #ff000 - red, #ccc - light grey)

instead of hex codes, you can also use HTML colors. for example, if instead of #ffffff you just wrote "white" it would do the same thing. here's a full list of accepted color names.

your userbox is done! now all you have to do is take a picture of it and crop it. zoom up as far as possible to your userbox. in your search bar along your taskbar, search “sn”. this should come up with “snipping tool”. open that, select new (make sure that under mode, rectangular snip is selected), then carefully put your cursor at any corner, making sure the crosshairs align with the border of your userbox. then drag to the opposite end, also making sure it’s not too close or too far (this is hard and takes me a few tries sometimes, but chances are better the more you zoom up on your userbox). once you’ve taken your screenshot, save it as whatever you want, wherever it will be most accessible to you, and voila!

the only difference with mobile is:

when you’re looking for a picture, you may be able to hold down the photo you want to bring up a selection which might include “open image in new tab”. if not, try clicking the image until it takes you to a page where there is nothing but the image. copying and pasting the image doesn’t work, nor does pasting the url of the website it’s from, so it’s a little more complicated. if you really want, you can upload the image you want to something like imgur and then copy that url.

on the website, images and hex codes don't immediately update when pasted. how i fix this is deleting punctuation and adding it again, or deleting the last number of a hex code and adding it again. this refreshes the userbox.

cropping is also way more refined – I recommend flipping it sideways for better precision, and flipping it right side up when done.

also userbox resolution is a lot better on mobile. pc can look more pixelated.

but yeah! hope this was useful ~

#userbox #how to make a userbox #userboxes

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xringside-blog · 4 years

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how can i edit photos on my computer

Why has the photo gallery sidebar has disappeared from Edit mode. Figs; Help Center title>

Buy this book

The following features are available in Photo Editor but not in Picture Manager. Design tool with user-defined design templates for every occasion. Create invitations, cards and announcements yourself. Users will not be notified if you block them. Learn more about blocking people. You can also deactivate comments for a post before you share it. In the view where you're adding caption or location to your post, tap Advanced Settings, then tap Disable Comments. The "Filter Comments" function includes both new and existing comments on your posts.

To answer you have to leave the current help page. To report abuse, you must leave the current help page. You must leave the current help page to view this member's profile. Members whose posts have been reported as abuse and removed will take longer to reach the next levels. Thumbs up for this shop. I was advised totally nice on the phone and my goods arrived 2 days after ordering.

Really extremely rude, the staff treat you like "subhuman" as if you weren't worthy of being respected in the language.

Install Photo Editor from an Office XP or Office 2000 installation CD again.

This comment comes from the Google product forum.

If you want to set your business account to "private", switch first back to a personal account.

(The photos do not have to be synchronized from the PC, since the PC has access to the synchronized photos of the NAS via the LAN).

My package was delivered quickly.

We use cookies to enable certain functions and to improve the offer. You can find more information in our privacy policy. This comment comes from the Google Product Forum. Your images can appear in Google search results if you are logged into your account with a web viewer that allows access to your profile and images. These third-party websites were created using our API and are not directly related to Instagram. Note that sharing a photo or video on a social network does not mean that the photo will be visible on Instagram. Your account will still appear private to anyone who is not a verified subscriber. If someone followed you before you set your posts to private and you don't want them to see your posts, you can block them. You can find them in the download center. If you mark a public post with "Like", this is visible to everyone and your user name under the post can be clicked. However, only confirmed subscribers can see your posts. If your account is public, anyone can "like" or comment on your photos and videos. If you want to prevent someone from “liking” or commenting on your posts, you can block them. However, the comparison takes place in the local network with your own server. The data does not leave your own computer. For users who allow the execution of Javascript in the browser, this number is significantly higher than for users who prohibit this. Each pack represents one of our trips. For example, there is the “LA Preset Pack” or the “Bali Preset Pack”. Of course you can also apply the LA presets to your e.g. Apply Thailand pictures 😉 Just try them and have fun with them! For starters, PayPal is the only payment option.

#how can i edit photos on my computer?

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cindylouwho-2 · 4 years

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RECENT NEWS, RESOURCES & STUDIES, late-January 2020

Welcome to my latest summary of recent news, resources & studies including search, analytics, content marketing, social media & ecommerce! This covers articles I came across since the mid-January report, although some may be older than that.

Right now I am trying to get at least 2 of these out each month. Is that enough? Too much? Am I missing topics you want to see covered? Please let me know! Comment here, message me through Tumblr, Twitter, or my website.

Also, I am once again working on plans to start an ecommerce business forum, where small business owners can learn and discuss topics like the ones I post about here. If you have any preferences for a suggested platform/forum space,please let me know! I will be running a survey once I narrow down my list.

Trending Articles

Microsoft Surface Book 3 release date and specification… The Microsoft Surface Book is a superb high-end convertible laptop that…

Arguably physical fingerprint sensors typically work better than these early in-display versions, and though it might be a fancy new feature to have the omission is not a game-changer.

Redmi Note 7 review

Sponsored Links Hong Kong protesters speak out: 'We could become the next Tibet or Xinjiang' Hong Kong protesters speak out: 'We could become the next Tibet or Xinjiang' Nikkei Asian Review Mac Users Advised To Do This Today (Millions have done this already) Mac Users Advised To Do This Today (Millions have done this already) Security Savers Biggest Ponzi Schemes in History Biggest Ponzi Schemes in History Trendingstock Today Recommended by The Redmi Note 7 also lacks the Ambient Display (always-on) mode found in Xiaomi flagships, which can additionally help you maintain battery life by reducing the frequency with which you feel you need to wake the phone to check the time or notifications. That could be an issue here, since Redmi Note 7 has the most ridiculous notification LED we've ever seen - it flashes up below the screen but is the tiniest little dot you could easily miss it completely.

Redmi Note 7 review

Redmi Note 7 Cameras & Photography For a budget phone the Redmi Note 7's cameras are pretty good, though not quite as good as the marketing might have you believe.

There's also an option to shoot in 48Mp, though all this is going to really do for you is gobble through your storage, since the results are not any better for the extra pixels.

The Redmi Note 7 supports 1080p video capture at 30- or 60fps with image stabilisation, but 4K and slow-mo video is off limits.

Around the front is a 13Mp AI camera for selfies, and in this mode the app offers quick access to various beauty settings.

Redmi Note 7 Auto

Redmi Note 7 HDR

Redmi Note 7 Low-Light

Redmi Note 7 Night

Redmi Note 7 review

On paper the capacious 4,000mAh battery looks amazing; in reality you should get a full day's use from it.

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evanschnaars44-blog · 5 years

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melva5753397831-blog · 5 years

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hearthandseyes · 5 years

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Pixelmator Photo for iPad

This will take awhile to get to the point so if you’re interested, buckle in for a winding, drawn out reason about why I’m not switching to Pixelmator Photo as much as I want to.

I’m an avid Lightroom CC user. I have never used Photoshop, not because I don’t want to but because I’m too stupid.

In the past I was an Aperture user and it never clicked. The catalogue was too confusing to me. Again, stupid. When it was discontinued I switched to Lightroom and have done well with it since. Adobe later released Lightroom Mobile (now the cross-platform Lightroom CC) during the time I had adopted a heavy iPhone/iPad travel workflow and I grew up with the program. Lightroom was straightforward and essentially offers the simple tools that I used in the darkroom- dodging and burning, with digital exposure and color edits. Plus a little more.

I have had a strange fascination with Pixelmator for years. Many times since 2012 I’ve tried to use Pixelmator which is a layers based graphics editor. The price was right and they were an Apple only product that worked to make the most of the Apple hardware. They even released a mobile app with some of the core features. But again it’s a layers based editor and if I couldn’t figure out Photoshop this wasn’t going to help me. I looked often for tutorials to learn the software but they weren’t available like they are for Adobe products.

When Pixelmator Pro for the Mac was being released last year I was fully ready to make an attempt at using it and abandoning Lightroom.

Why would I leave Adobe? I don’t like that I’m boxed into one system. I pay 20 dollars a month for the photography Creative Cloud account with 2 TB of data. I have to be very careful with that catalogue as I go because 2TB isn’t a lot for a full and active catalogue over years, even with mindful archiving. And I’m managing two different photography catalogues- Lightroom and Apple Photos. Finally, the way you import photographs into Lightroom on the iPad or iPhone is plain silly, but that’s really on Apple and we’re not going to get into file management on iOS because that’s a dead horse for now (until some future iOS iteration).

But the big reason was: “minimalism”.

Over 2018 I started doing a deep dive into my life again. A significant breakup, several moves, and a job change made me evaluate everything. I adopted minimalism around 2009 when I started paring down my belongings and moved into a small loft apartment. When I moved to Rhode Island in 2011 I sold almost everything I owned then put an add on Craigslist to come get the rest for free and people swooped in en masse. I kept things lightweight as possible but things creep back in. My digital files were a mess. Papers kept following me around the country. When I lived on the Rez it was like Little House On The Prairie and I bought enough supplies and things to fix anything and felt I needed a lot of comforts. “Things” piled up. Tools, paint, gardening tools, furniture, home gym equipment, entertainment. By late 2016 I was maintaining 3 addresses over 3 states with homes and ‘stuff’ in all of them, a lot of it duplicated. Then I had to pack up all of the places and put them into storage and nothing makes you realize how crazy your life is than rampant disorganization, poor sleep, and putting your hands on every single thing you own. I literally started having recurring dreams about boxes of papers.

While I was traveling I couldn’t manage my physical things but I could manage my finances and digital assets. I was shocked by how many apps and pieces of software I owned or had a subscription to. I made the spreadsheet that showed monthly recurring charges and a lot showed up and were pared down. And this drew my eye to the Adobe subscription. It has jumped up from 9.99 a month to 19.99. 240 dollars a year every year. I can afford it and I use it aggressively but did I need it at that price?

iOS has become my main platform for doing everything. The iPhone alone can do most things you need and when you need the luxury of a bigger screen go to an iPad. When I watch or read reviews of any iPad people talk about how it can’t replace a computer and it makes me nuts. What does anyone do on a computer besides browse the web, shop, message your friends, watch YouTube and Netflix, and check email, and write (in that order)? iOS is fine for 99.99 percent of people except working graphics and video professionals, engineers, architects, and medical professionals (because medical software is the worst on earth and just can’t function on anything except a 12 year old Windows PC). I find working on an iPad is far more efficient than working on a Mac both digitally and physically. The ergonomics of touch with a Smart Keyboard are just better than keyboard and mouse (there is a reason the keyboard is so short- it’s so you can reach the screen easily). I edit photos with a pencil. I manipulate windows and screens like Minority Report. When I want to read something my ‘computer’ turns into a book/magazine/comic book/magical future tablet. I believe that my next Mac upgrade will likely be the last traditional computer I ever buy.

That aside over when I evaluated my tools, a lot of software like Word and Ulysesss, Byword, Simplenote, Evernote and OneNote, were abandoned for free, excellent software that came with my devices. Notes and Pages took over drafting, writing, and note collection. iCloud Drive replaced Dropbox, Music replaced Spotify. It kept everything neat, my data and privacy were secure and organized in one place, and I took the time to master the software. Where I had limped along on Excel for decades, I buckled down and did the full Lynda.com Numbers course and for the first time spreadsheets stopped being mysterious things nerds used to optimize their lives and instead became easily accessible tools that helped me solved real problems. A lot of this was also pushed by many of the privacy concerns arising in digital ecosystems (Facebook, Google, apps sending data out that users are unaware of, etc.).

But besides managing my day to day life and writing what do I use my tech for?

Photography.

Could I get rid of all of these photo editing apps? I adore shooting and editing on my iPhone and I seriously considered selling all of my cameras and becoming an iPhone only photographer. But different working opportunities continue to present themselves and so I kept using ‘real’ cameras and instead focused on addressing the software. Snapseed left. It’s a terrific app but I can do everything in Snapseed with Lightroom, but better. And I don’t trust Google anyway. All of the other silly one off apps disappeared too. They were niche cases and often all I needed was to dig into Lightroom to figure out how to replace them. But could I replace Lightroom with free Apple software?

Aperture was discontinued by Apple in 2015 (and it was definitely not free). The people who fully embraced it loved it, probably in the way people love Final Cut Pro. It was a different beast than their consumer product iPhoto which most people were familiar with and used without issue, mostly for collecting their images but also for doing basic editing. Apple replaced iPhoto with Photos (minimalism) with the emphasis on the iCloud Photos library and cataloguing. But on MacOS they were sneaking some Aperture features in on later releases like curves. It seemed like they were beefing up the Photos app for greater things and these features seemed to be mirrored onto the iOS versions of the app. With the release of the iPad Pro and the Apple Pencil it seemed like any week Apple would release some brushes but they didn’t. Instead you were stuck with very basic global edits (and of course stupid filters) and didn’t even have access to the MacOS features like HSL.

But you could open photos in other apps. Like Pixelmator for iOS. And... it didn’t work. It was a garbage dream and ultimately nothing was able to replace the features I used all the time in Lightroom CC, specifically: editing metadata, the gradient and radial filters, and dehaze. Add to that geometric perspective correction and the fact that on the Mac Lightroom CC was adding in Photoshop/Lightroom Classic features like panoramic merge and more.

When Pixelmator announced they were releasing a photography (vs graphic design) focused app, and that it was for the iPad I was thrilled. I signed up for email updates and trolled the web periodically for information. When it arrived (at the phenomenal price of 4.99) I had already preordered it. I downloaded it and got to work straight away. I love that it uses either Photos or Files for the catalogue (easier to manage and takes out a step used in Lightroom). And that’s it for the good. It uses Machine Learning. They want you to know that. They’ve pushed the hardware in the iPad. I believe it. But their big focus is on automagic edits and cropping, filter presets, and global edits. Honestly I can get that from Photos.app.

There are no brushes, no focal dodging and burning, no radial or gradient filters. It’s 2019, the iPad has this amazing Pencil, and neither Apple nor Pixelmator are taking advantage of it. If I cannot dodge or burn specific areas of a photograph, I am doing worse than I was in the chemical darkroom in 1997.

Photos.app needs to also beef up for me to use Pixelmator, specifically adding brushes and filters and one or the other needs to add the ability to batch edit photos.

In addition they need to add an iPhone app because I often edit only on my phone.

We’ll see what Pixelmator adds in the future. I’m sure I’ll still be paying attention for some reason.

Originally, about 6 months ago, this article was going to be about how I was going to switch from the yearly subscription of Adobe to Pixelmator but every time I tried to move my workflow over with serious photography I stuck with Lightroom CC because the tools are so strong. Without those tools I’m not going to use another photo editor. And I know there are others like Affinity Photo. For some reason I’m not interested. I just had this weird obsession with Pixelmator.

So that leaves me with what this article is about. I started deleting the original version of Pixelmator off of my iOS devices and Mac because I just don’t use it. Pixelmator became the thing to remove. It became an exercise of giving up the goat and not worrying so much about digital minimalism as using a tool that works and I that lets me be an artist. When I’m working professionally I can’t imagine not using Lightroom. And I use Lightroom CC which is considered ‘light’ anyway (but that’s foolish and something I should address later if people want me to). They’ve also recently added the features I wanted like stitching panoramas so for me it’s feature complete. It’s just the duplication of catalogues, online space, and the monthly fee that drive me crazy.

I’ve been making attempts of various strength since 2012 to use versions of Pixelmator and I’m not sure why it has seemed so important to me. I don’t need to use an app that makes global edits to a photo when I need to brighten eyes or increase the contrast in select areas of landscapes. I just need to use Lightroom.

#iPad Pro #Photography #Pixelmator #lightroomcc #Travel Photography #Pixelmator Pro #Apple #Pixelmator Photo #iOS

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familycuisinee · 3 years

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how to get the best steaming on obs | Family Cuisine

<p>Streaming is a ton of fun, but it can take some work to get right. This is especially true when you are getting your settings correct. Getting the right video and audio settings can mean the difference of a stream that is inviting and high-quality, or a stream that looks like its ran off a potato. Luckily for you, we got you covered. We put together a guide on all of the settings you need to adjust to ensure the stream is as high quality as your system and internet can handle. Let’s get into it!</p> <h2><strong>Bitrate Rule of Thumb</strong></h2> <p>Your internet speed is a major factor in determining what quality you can and can’t stream at. Therefore, it’s best that you run your internet to your computer with an ethernet cable. This provides a much more consistent internet connection for the stream compared to Wi-Fi. As far as how fast of internet you need, it all depends on the resolution and FPS you want to achieve.</p> <ul><li>For 720p video at 30 frames per second, we recommend 1,500 to 4,000 kbps</li><li>For 720p video at 60 frames per second, we recommend 2,500 to 5,000 kbps</li><li>For 1080p video at 30 frames per second, we recommend 3,000 to 6,000 kbps</li><li>For 1080p video at 60 frames per second, we recommend 4,500 to 9,000 kbps</li></ul> <p>You can run a speedtest from Google to see what your speeds are at. This, along with your equipment, will help determine what you can stream at! </p> <p><strong>*Note: If you are a Twitch streamer that isn’t a partner, you should set your max bitrate to 6,500 Kbps. That is the highest you can go as a non-partner. Twitch will throttle your bitrate down and cause massive downgrade in your quality as a result.*</strong></p> <h2><strong>Settings</strong></h2> <p>OBS is a great program to stream with. Not only is it free, but it is filled with settings that you can adjust to make your stream look great. However, there are only a couple areas that we really want to focus on to ensure a quality stream. You can adjust whatever you’d like after, but this is what we recommend.</p> <p>Let’s start by opening up OBS and select “Settings”</p> <h3><strong>General</strong></h3> <p>On the General tab, there isn’t much to change that will affect your stream. However, you can change the theme for Dark mode if you don’t like the blinding white colors of the default OBS. You’re welcome ????</p> <figure><img src="https://ift.tt/3AgIi1n" alt="Red rectangle around the Theme area of the General Settings Tab." /></figure> <h3><strong>Stream</strong></h3> <p>This is where you’ll place your stream key or log into the streaming service you’ll be using. Make sure you log in or place your stream key here.</p> <figure><img src="https://ift.tt/3jX3xzj" alt="Stream tab in the Settings window for where to place your stream key." /></figure> <h3><strong>Output</strong></h3> <p>Output is where the majority of our changes are going to happen. First, we want to change the Output Mode to “Advanced”. This will allow us to adjust our settings on a finer level. Next, ensure that the Streaming tab is selected.</p> <figure><img src="https://ift.tt/3C4umYr" alt="Photo of the Output tab with rectangles around Output, Streaming tab, and Output Mode." /></figure> <p>On the Audio Track, make sure that 1 is selected.</p> <figure><img src="https://ift.tt/3C3aHIs" alt="Photo of the settings Output settings window with a rectangle around the Audio Track." /></figure> <p>For the Encoder, if you have a 10, 20, or 30 series NVIDIA card, we recommend using the NVIDIA NVENC H.264 (new) encoder. There is a couple reasons for this:</p> <ol><li>This encoder allows you to encode on the graphics card, rather than the CPU. If you are playing CPU intensive games, this can save a lot of resources and allow the graphics card to take the brunt of the streaming load.</li><li>The encoder was built by NVIDIA to work with the card, but also not affect the GPU performance. The encoder runs off a separate part of the card from the main components, which allows it to multitask handling the stream and game.</li></ol> <figure><img src="https://ift.tt/3hkH6SQ" alt="Photo of Output Settings window with a rectangle around the Encoder selection." /></figure> <p>Please note that the quality of the stream will take more power to get a clearer look compared to the CPU if you are using the NVENC encoder. But if you have a decent system, this shouldn’t be an issue. If you don’t have one of the cards mentioned above, or have a much more powerful CPU, then change the encoder to x264 to encode off the CPU.</p> <p>Ensure that the Rescale Output is unchecked. We will handle any resizing in a separate area.</p> <h4><strong>If you are using the NVIDIA NVENC H.264 (new) Encoder:</strong></h4> <ul><li>Rate Control: CBR</li><li>Bitrate: Max 6500 Kbps if you are a non-partnered Twitch streamer. This is dependent on your internet and quality you want to stream at.</li><li>Keyframe Interval: 2</li><li>Preset: ‘Max Quality’ if you have a 20 series GPU or higher / ‘Quality’ if you are using a 10 series GPU.</li><li>Profile: High</li><li>Look-ahead: Checked</li><li>Psycho Visual Tuning: Checked</li><li>GPU: 0<ul><li>If you are using only 1 GPU, then set this to 0. </li><li>If you are using multiple GPU, your number will adjust based on which GPU you want to use.</li></ul></li><li>Max B-Frames: 2</li></ul> <h4><strong>If you are using x264 Encoder:</strong></h4> <ul><li>Rate Control: CBR</li><li>Bitrate: Max 6,500 Kbps if you are a non-partnered Twitch streamer. This is dependent on your internet and quality you want to stream at. </li><li>Keyframe Interval: 2</li><li>CPU Usage Preset: For games with high movement (FPS, Sports games, etc.), choose Fast to VeryFast. For games that are slower or with minimal movement (Card games, etc.), choose Medium. The slower the preset, the more clear the image will be, but the more strain on the CPU to create a clear image.</li><li>Profile: High</li><li>Tune: None</li></ul> <h3><strong>Audio</strong></h3> <p>Getting your audio correct is a huge deal. While many people think that having a clear video is more important, it’s actually the opposite. If you have a lower quality looking stream, but good audio, people will hang around. If you have a crisp/clear stream with terrible audio, people will click off very quickly. So nailing your audio is a must!</p> <p>You have two Sample Rates available to you: 44.1 kHz or 48 kHz. As we mentioned about setting up your stream audio, many people will not notice the difference between the two. If you want the best audio available, select 48kHz. Also ensure that you chose “Stereo” for the channel.</p> <figure><img src="https://ift.tt/3z1Vtl6" alt="Photo of the Audio tabs General area with Sample Rate and Channels." /></figure> <p>Under the Global Audio Devices section, you can set the different devices for your desktop audio, microphone, etc.. This will be different from person to person. If you use a GoXLR, you will only apply the Broadcast Stream Mix to Mic/Auxiliary Audio. But if you are using multiple different devices, you might need to apply a Desktop Audio or Microphone device. </p> <figure><img src="https://ift.tt/38V5xSo" alt="Photo of the Global Audio Devices and their settings." /></figure> <h3><strong>Video</strong></h3> <p>The Video tab is where you’ll change the resolution of the stream and the frames per second. This is also where you’ll resize the livestream if you want to do that.</p> <figure><img src="https://ift.tt/3k2stWd" alt="Photo of the Video tabs settings including Base (Canvas) Resolution, Output (Scaled) Resolution, and downscale filter" /></figure> <p>The Base (Canvas) Resolution is the size of the game or display that you want to capture. So if you are playing your game in 1920×1080, then set the Base (Canvas) Resolution to that. Likewise, if you are only playing at 1280×720, change it to that resolution.</p> <p>The Output (Scaled) Resolution is what you want your stream to be at. So if you want a 720p stream, you’d set it to 1280×720. Likewise, if you want it to be a 1080p stream, set it to 1920×1080.</p> <p>The Downscale Filter decides how you choose to downscale your resolution (if you are downsizing from a higher Base Resolution to a lower Output Resolution). We recommend Bicubic or Lanczos for most individuals. Lanczos will provide the clearest sharpening of the video, but requires more power from the components to work. We recommend this for higher-end PCs (20 series GPU or higher / Ryzen 5 CPU or higher / Intel i7-7700 CPU or higher). For lower-end PCs, we recommend Bicubic.</p> <p>Depending on your equipment and internet, you can set your FPS to 30-60 frames, but 60 is preferred for most streams. </p> <p>There you have it! If you followed the above suggestions, you’ll have a quality stream ready for people to enjoy. While what we provided above is a great baseline, everyone’s systems are different. We recommend that you use what we suggested and then tweak the settings more to your specifications and equipment. If you have any other suggestions on how to get a quality stream in OBS, let us know in the comments down below! We might even add them to this article!</p> <p>Thank you so much for reading and, as always, keep on creating and GLHF!</p> source https://familycuisine.net/how-to-get-the-best-steaming-on-obs/

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foxsol295 · 3 years

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Adobe Creative Cloud Photoshop Cc Serial Number

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Photoshop CS6 Keygen is so far the best editing software in the market. The performance of the File Browser has been updated, on the other hand, the TIFF files that feature LZW compression are correction created. Furthermore, it enables you to create your projects in a realistic way as per your requirements.

What’s new about Adobe Photoshop CS6?

Auto-content aware patch.

Adobe Mercury Graphics Engine for 3D.

Advanced and re-engineered designing tools.

Bugs are fixed.

Blur Gallery feature.

Fixed previous issues about filter and effects.

New 2D and 3D Controls with 3D effects.

How to get Photoshop CS6 for free?

If you are thinking of getting the Adobe Photoshop CS6 for free without spending money, then you are at the right place. As we provide Photoshop cs6 full version free of cost. You can download the photoshop crack full version from below.

Photoshop Key Features

Adobe Photoshop Portable offers color saturation, image editing, as well as graphics design with amazing effects and tools.

In CS6 and CS6 Extended, Adobe creative suite grants you to redesign or edit icons with the standard color scheme.

This photo editing application is mainly used for professional digital imaging by graphic designers.

Offers crop tools and brushes

Enables double-clicking

Improved 3D working

Enhanced crop devices

Retina screen manual

Imports color files

HDPI More efficient working

Color control improved

Saves time with extra working

Creates more superior

Free Adobe CS6 Photoshop 13.1 lets you create your projects effortlessly.

Images processing fastly

Quick workflow exists

More 3D effects

Decorated text lines

Compose your all designs now

Creates superior artwork

More trustable working

Fast creation of photos

picture support

An extensive selection of options

Adobe Photoshop CS6 Extended Full Patch gives a broad range of selection tools for imaging, mercury graphics engine, brushes, camera raw and many more.

Fast graphics engines

Expanded crop devices

Boosta the snapshots

Entire recovery tools

Intelligent working

Genuine workflow

3D affected decoration

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