REVIEW: Seiko SKX007, Modded by Yobokies

Not long after I wrote the previous post on the Seiko SKX007's modding community, I ordered my own mod from Yobokies. I am a sucker for dive watches, even though I didn't yet have a proper one in my collection. As a certified diver, there's just something great about a mechanical dive watch that will keep track of my bottom time in the event my dive computer fails. I wanted something that wasn't just any old Submariner homage, but was unique and had everything a diver should. The SKX series consists of two main models, the 007 and the 009. The 007 comes with a black bezel insert, while the 009 has the "Pepsi" blue and red insert. While the contrasting colors do provide some utility, I went with the more timeless black. There is also the option of either a jubilee steel bracelet, or a rubber strap. I opted for the latter as having handled the former, found the quality to be lacking. The great thing about either of these models is the sheer number of parts available. Everything can be modded, and I'm sure my journey has only just begun. This time, with my base of the Seiko SKX007 chosen, I had the following modifications done. Double-domed sapphire crystal: Domed to reduce underwater reflections and double domed to lessen distortion, which the single dome suffers from. The sapphire will also be more scratch-proof than the original Hardlex crystal. Orange Plongeur Hands: As the minute hand is used to track bottom time against the bezel, I wanted it to stand out as much as possible. Orange to match the "Diver's 200m" on the dial was a logical choice. Silver Chapter Ring: The chapter ring is between the dial and bezel, used to more precisely read the minute hand. Again, to provide more contrast, I opted for silver over the original black. The watch came in a shade over $300 and was assembled and delivered in 2.5 days. Pretty remarkable. The packaging is nothing to speak about but the watch was definitely protected well against bumps and drops. The feeling of opening a box to a custom piece is really nice. Seeing as I had never seen an identical one, and was relying on my imagination when ordering, I was pleasantly surprised with the end result. It was just the right combination and everything I had anticipated. The most unique part of the SKX007 is the position of the crown. Instead of being at the usual 3 o'clock, this crown is at 4 o'clock and lends just the right amount of uniqueness and funkiness to the design. Unscrewing the crown, there is a slight bit of lateral give, a small nod to this watch's relatively low price point. The case does have a shine to it, and is reminiscent of the polished parts on a stainless steel Rolex. I would prefer the case to take on more of a brushed look, giving the watch more of a tool-like appearance. In addition the coin edge of the bezel gives off an unnatural shine, a little too much for my tastes. Though admittedly, it is a small problem some 1000 grit sandpaper can easily remedy in the future. Initially I had some difficulty setting the watch. It took me a good while to figure out that turning clockwise set the date and counter-clockwise, the day. The day wheel is in both English and Spanish, which was a little odd. Maybe the 007 is popular in Spain? Who knows. As an automatic watch, the second hand "sweep" is guaranteed but it comes out a little ratchet-y on this watch. The movement isn't as high-beat as more expensive ones in the likes of Rolex, Omega, or even closer to home - in the legendary Grand Seiko Spring Drive. It is a mechanical movement nonetheless, and one that has garnered the reputation of being dependable and fairly accurate. Once the date and time were set, I decided to try this watch on a NATO strap. What I did not anticipate was the sheer difficulty in removing the spring bars. Even with a proper spring bar tool, the task was almost impossible. This is because of the "fat" spring bars Seiko uses, while not facilitating frequent strap changes, does ensure the more important - that the spring bars don't break mid-dive. In the end, what I did was cut away the original "Z22" Seiko rubber strap, which pained me but was definitely necessary. The quality of the strap was subpar to begin with (very stiff "rubber" - more like plastic) and it made the watch look like a cheap toy. The orange plongeur hands that Yobokies installed are very high in quality. The lume is definitely on par with the original Seiko lume on the hour markers and gives off a pleasant and long-lasting glow after a short charge. The orange pops quite pleasantly against the dark grey dial, and along with the slight doming of the crystal, gives this watch a unique character. The domed crystal from Yobokies comes with an underside coating of anti-reflective paint. As a result, the crystal has a blue hue when viewed under the right light. I'm not sure whether other Yobokies crystals come with different colored AR coatings, but blue comes off very pleasant and natural. I have yet to test the crystal in water, but I am sure of its AR qualities from other's experiences. This watch is going to serve as my activities/sports/action watch. On a NATO strap, or the inevitable rubber I'm going to put it on, it will take a good amount of abuse. As it's warming up already in Hong Kong, I will try to take it out in the coming few weeks and assess it's usability and practicality in an open-water dive. That way, I'll be able to judge the water resistance (purported to be 200m), legibility of the hands and markers, and the AR properties of the crystal. That said, for a watch at such a relatively low price point, it's loyal following is definitely justified. This watch doesn't try to be a Rolex Submariner homage, like so many dive watches before it. Instead, its unique characteristics set it apart while maintaining the elements that make this a practical dive watch. In the end, if it's good enough for war (Vietnam), it's probably going to be good enough for me.

Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch The SKX007 is one of Seiko's cheapest dive watches, coming in just over USD200 (often for less), and represents true value for money. You get an automatic movement with day and date, 200m water resistance, a classic dive watch styling and real history. This watch's predecessor was used by Army GIs in the Vietnam War. The SKX007 caught my attention a while ago but I never gave it any serious consideration because of its relatively plain looks. After discovering the huge modding community over at Watch-U-Seek, including this 100+ page thread, I am now sorely tempted to get one. All the pictures above are taken from yobokie's PhotoBucket, the inventory of a famous modder who not only sells parts, but also fully modded watches as pictured above. Add to the fact that he lives in Hong Kong, resisting the temptation is going to be hard...

The Vintage Draw

Today, vintage watches from countless brands are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike. But what makes them so desirable? To the untrained eye, vintage watches are just older second-hand examples of modern timepieces. They ask, why would someone want to spend an equal amount, often more, for a beaten-up watch when they could have a new one? The answer- as always- depends. Clean examples such as this vintage Omega Constellation can be found with a bit of luck. (Source: Flickr User Malenkov in Exile) Budget A vintage watch is loosely defined as a pre-owned watch that is most likely out of production. Often, when vintage watches are mentioned, Rolex COMEX Submariners for instance, the prices are astronomical due to rarity and desirability. This really is the exception. In fact, most vintage watches are more affordable than their modern counterparts. Watches that were in production for many years and may not be as sought after, can be had for a relative bargin. Often the choice of a decent mechanical watch for those on a budget comes down to a modern watch from a budget brand (think Seiko) or a vintage one from a well respected watch brand (think Omegas from the 70's). This is where vintage, in the right condition, can be an absolute steal. Look If you take a peek at the catalogs of modern watch companies today, you will generally see larger designs that favor boldness and gaudiness over subtly. This of course is a gross generalization of an entire industry, but this is true more often than not. However, watches have not always been this way. Watches not too long ago were more refined and a better fit for those of us without a giant's wrist. Sadly these watches have been phased out, though lucky for us can still be had on the vintage watch market. Also, some watch enthusiasts like the look of a well-worn watch. One with a story to tell. For example, a faded bezel with yellowing hour markers can actually be desirable features. These are all part of the charm of vintage pieces. Well-worn vintage Rolex GMT Ref: 1675 with faded bezel and patina on hour markers. A true classic. (Source: Flickr User hypo.physe) History and Provenance Especially among watch collectors, the most highly sought after vintage watches are those with the history and provenance to back it up. First watch on the moon? Same reference Rolex as worn by Sean Connery as Bond? These are all examples of watches that are true gems to collectors. Unfortunately, the watches worn in the actual events are relegated to exclusive auctions and sold at outrageous prices. That is not to say modern watches don't have history, as many of today's models are just evolutions of previous ones. However, there is something special about having a vintage watch with the same design and characteristics as the watch featured in the historical event. Investment This post would be incomplete without a mention of investment. Watches bought today depreciate almost instantly. However, certain vintage models that are rare and sought after actually appreciate in value over time. The prices of Military Submariners (those used by the British Military), for example, have steadily gone up over the past decade. These are the watches that some collectors buy as investment. In general, buying a timepiece as an investment is a bad idea. On the other hand, buying a vintage watch to wear and appreciate every day for many years to come is a great idea. Stay tuned here on ZEITIMER for upcoming posts on vintage watches.

Review: Rolex Explorer 2 (ref: 16570)

Today, we have the Rolex Explorer 2 up for review. This particular one pictured has a Black Dial, Reference 16570, and was purchased in Late 2011. The identifying feature is the red GMT hand, along with a fixed bezel with 24-hour markings. This watch has since been discontinued following the introduction of the Explorer 2 Ref 216570 in a larger case size with an orange GMT hand at Baselworld 2011. Background The Explorer 2 may not have the storied history of its older brother, the Explorer 1, but it does make up for it in its more modern interpretation of what a watch should be. Originally designed for spelunking as Ref 1655 in 1971, the watch has gone through several evolutions. The current GMT hand was once non-adjustable and used to tell day/night by reading the time off the outer bezel. As the popularity of spelunking has dwindled, the Explorer 2 remained and has created its own legacy and cult following since the watch's inception. Appearance The Explorer 2 comes in a reasonable case-size of 40mm on a standard Oyster bracelet. The dial comes in white or black, and is surrounded by a non-rotating stainless steel bezel with 24-hours markers. There is a date window with a cyclops and red 24-hour hand for keeping track of a second timezone, independent of the hour hand. The red hand provides a good contrast to both the black and white dials and give just the right amount of pop to this otherwise monochromatic watch. This particular model features the ROLEXROLEXROLEX engraving surrounding the edge of the dial. This watch has never enjoyed the popularity of its cousins, such as the Submariner and Daytona models, and much of this is down to the non-rotating bezel. Because of the all stainless steel case, many find this creates an odd appearance, preferring the contrast provided by a colored bezel. To each his own though, I do enjoy the sleekness that a mostly silver case provides. It has to be noted however that the bezel isn't ceramic like some newer Rolex bezels are. As a result, scratches are a common occurrence but can easily be rectified with a full service. Features The main feature of this watch is of course the GMT hand, which makes keeping track of friends and family in different time zones an absolute ease and pleasure. The second timezone is simply read off the bezel via the red hand. Keeping with the theme of being a traveler's watch, the hour hand can be advanced and turned back independently. Changing to a different local time is a breeze, with the minute and second hands ticking away unaffected. The date window, like on all Rolexes, is highly legible thanks to the magnification. No problem at all reading the date. Because of the fixed bezel, the watch not only has great wrist presence, but also the added reliability over a rotating bezel such as on the Submariner, which can trap sand and dust. I see this is a major feature because when exploring with this watch, the last thing I would want to worry about is a stuck/broken bezel. The crown is a twin-lock crown with a 100m depth rating. Comparing this to the triple-lock crown on Rolex's dive models, this may seem lacking. However, recreational divers rarely go past 30m so any extra water resistance would be extraneous anyway. This depth rating is certainly adequate for all but the most extreme cases. Summary The Explorer 2 is a great timepiece that doesn't quite have the same popularity as other models in the Rolex lineup. This doesn't diminish the appeal of this watch. In fact, I think it adds to it. It's a piece that not many people will have, but those who do, appreciate its history, appearance, and uniqueness. This watch would be a great vintage piece to have, as the prices are reasonable and the variety great. Of course, if you're going for the Ref. 1655... that's a whole different price range. More on that in the future...

Required Reading

Below I have listed the sites I frequent for information on watches and the watch world in general. It is a mix of blogs, forums and an FAQ. If you are new to watches and are interested in knowing more, this is a great starting point.

Hodinkee is by far my favorite watch site on the internet, with the latest news from the watch world, as well as in-depth reviews and features. Follow them @hodinkee on Instagram as well for more. Fratello Watches is a new discovery of mine but I’m liking it already just for the fact that they do a “Speedy Tuesday” post every week. The Rolex Forums (TRF) is the premier forum on all things Rolex. Great community here and a wealth of information. Watch U Seek is both a site and a forum. I frequent their Omega sub-forums for information and pictures! Timezone’s FAQ is the most important link here. It contains detailed explanations of different aspects of mechanical watches. If anything, read this!

The 321 Speedmaster

My personal 105.012-66 cal.321 Speedmaster. Detailed review to come.

There is little more important in the watch world than the 321 Speedmaster and it’s place in history. Ask any watch collector, including those owning million dollar Pateks, they will surely name the 321 Speedmaster as one of the watches an enthusiast and collector must own.

The name “Speedmaster” refers to the model of watches that Omega came out with in 1956. The Speedmaster began as a chronograph (stopwatch) and even though the line has diversified greatly, this remains the main identifying feature. In the early-1960’s, NASA engineers went to a downtown Houston watch store and purchased chronographs from different brands. The purpose was not specified, and nobody knew about this till after the fact. NASA subject each watch to rigorous and extensive testing, and the only watch that passed was none other than the Omega Speedmaster. Later in 1965, upon realizing that NASA had chosen their chronograph as the watch for the Apollo 11 Mission, Omega changed the name to “Speedmaster Professional” in recognition of this. As we all know, in June of 1969, the three astronauts of Apollo 11 became the first men on the moon, and the Speedmaster Professional the first watch. The rest is history. To this day, NASA continues to use the Speedmaster Professional as the official issue watch for all manned space missions, cementing this watch in horological history.

But what does the “321” mean? The Speedmaster Professional is a watch with a real sense of history. However, many will tell you buying the “moonwatch” (ref. 3570.50.00) from an Omega authorized dealer today is not the same. The reason is because the watch today carries minor differences to the watch first worn on the moon. First and foremost is the movement. The movement is the heart of any watch, and the one used in Aldrin, Armstrong and Collins’s Speedmasters was the caliber 321 manual winding movement. In late-1968, most likely realizing the Speedmaster was going to become a big seller, Omega switched out the movement to a caliber 861, one that was both cheaper to produce and more accurate. Win, win for Omega. For watch buffs however, changing a watch’s movement is akin to changing a watch’s soul. Therefore, one can say the 861 is not the original moonwatch and hence does not carry as much value historically and monetarily. As a result, Speedmasters equipped with the 321 movement are valued more highly and rarer to find, especially in good condition. There are also many minor cosmetic differences, but in the end, it is the movement change that spurred collectors and enthusiasts to really seek out the 321 Speedmaster as the moonwatch to get.

For further reading, Chuck Maddox’s excellent site Chrono Maddox is a goldmine of information

Welcome

Hello. Welcome to ZEITIMER. This blog will be where I, Boris, share my journey with you as I explore the world of horology. I will be focusing on vintage Rolex and Omega, diving into the history of certain models, and unearthing nuggets of information from various sites. I should emphasize that I still have much to learn, so inaccuracies are just part of the process. Do use the "Ask" feature to give me feedback, or suggest topics for me to write about. Thanks for reading. Hope you stick around!