Hey guys, I'm Max and this is WatchCrunch. So at around $300, many would argue that the Seiko SKX is your best first mechanical watch. Now, I'm a little bit late to the game because I never thought that I could pull off a 42-millimeter watch, but thanks to its compact Lugs, the SKX actually wears more like a 40. Now, as you probably know, the SKX is a favorite amongst the modification community, partly because of the plethora of parts that exist for this watch. Now I've seen a lot of SKX mods floating around on the internet, and frankly, most of them are a little too extreme for my taste. For my first foray I wanted to retain the essence of the SKX but at the same time address some of the watch's shortcomings. So with that said, let's go ahead and get into the build.

Okay, here are the parts laid out on the table. We have the SKX case with a top hat Sapphire crystal that I had already installed. The case back. This is the original 7S620 movement with some Submariner hands that I had already put on there. Here is the old bezel and the new one with a planet, ocean style, ceramic insert, and the knurling on the side. This is the NH36 movement with a new STEM and a Seiko signed crown. And lastly, a Bark and Jack NATO strap.

First, let me show you how I got the bezel off. Take some really thick tape to protect the Lug. The bottom right one some say is the easiest. Then take this wedge and twist hard, and you should hear the bezel separate. Now removing the hands might be difficult on a non-hacking movement, but if you apply a little bit of counter traction on the crown, it can stop the secondhand long enough for you to do this. Taking the old dial off, taking care not to touch the face of it. Next, we get the NH36 movement out and fit the dial on there. Now, notice that the date wheel is slightly misaligned. I discovered that to resolve this problem, you actually have to swap over the date wheel from the old movement. This requires taking off the center C-clip and then reinstalling it once you swapped the wheels. This is not terribly difficult, but just make sure you have some really fine flathead screwdrivers. So, now when we pop the dial on there, you'll see that the date wheel is perfectly centered.

Next we move on to the hands. Now you want to make sure that the crown is set such that the date just turns over, then align everything at the 12 o'clock position, starting with the hour hand, then moving on to the minute hand, and let me show you a special trick for getting the second hand on there, because it can be difficult. You pick it up by the counterweight and gently set it onto the pinion. Then take the toothpick, get it started. Once it's aligned, then you can take the hand installer and fully seat the second hand onto the pinion. Check the alignment of everything.

Okay, now we're ready for the case, making sure to blow things off in between to make sure that no dust gets trapped on there. Now, I've already cut the new STEM to size and you want to do this carefully and make many small incremental cuts so you don't overdo it and waste the STEM. If you did it correctly, it should screw all the way down. Give it another dust off, apply the old ring and the case back.

Next, we re-install the click ring and then place the new bezel on top. And we'll be using the crystal press to get this back on. With the right fittings, press firmly and you'll hear the bezel seal itself. The new insert is secured with double-sided adhesive. So we removed the backing, get it perfectly aligned and then firmly press it into place.

Okay, well, messing with that misaligned date wheel problem really threw me for a loop, but having to deal with that C-clip wasn't as bad as I'd feared. Now, before we take the SKX out for a spin, I'm going to ask you to help this channel to continue to make quality watch videos by doing all those YouTube things like giving this video a thumbs up, hitting that subscribe button, and the bell icon below. This way YouTube will keep you up to date with future episodes as well. Thank you.

And here's the final product. I've always been impressed with the SKX's bezel action, which is on par with watches 10 times its price. Now, the tactile feel is even better with a gnarled edge. The top hat crystal gives it a vintage feel but maintains a slim profile. The orange accents on the dialing now match those on the bezel, bringing some cohesion to the design. And Adrian really makes a nice NATO strap with a [mild 00:06:43] buckle.

Now, we are probably all familiar with the SKX's dimensions, but I will put them up here again.

The loom is bright as a dive watch should be. And I chose to retain the original secondhand because I feel like the round counterweight goes well with the hour [inaudible 00:07:06]. Overall, I'm really happy with how this turned out. The watch still has an SKX sole, but the tasteful upgrades bring it into the 21st century.

All right. So, that's the build. Since the watch has some [inaudible 00:07:26] hands and a planet ocean bezel, I think I'll call it the SKX SubOcean. In the comments below let me know how I did on my first SKX build.

Well, thank you for tuning in, until next time, take care.

WatchCrunch.com

Rolex Datejust 116200 vs 1603 — Modern Vs Vintage Review

FULL VIDEO: Rolex Datejust 116200 vs 1603 — Modern Vs Vintage Review

Video transcript below:

Hey guys, I’m Max and you are watching WatchCrunch.

We’ve always been told that the Rolex Datejust is the most iconic dress watch out there and for good reason, this is a watch that’s been around for over 75 years with a history that precedes it. And herein lies my dilemma, a new Datejust costs north of $6,000 and you can get the same 36 millimeter size in a vintage Datejust for around half that price. So given how indecisive I am, I managed to get my hands on two classic silver dial Datejusts five decades apart. And in this video we’re going to take a close look at both of these watches and hopefully by the end you’ll help me make a decision as to which one I should keep.

Here are the two watches side-by-side, both classic silver dials paired with their Jubilee bracelets. Notice that their dimensions are almost identical with the only difference being that the modern rendition has grown a couple millimeters in thickness. Let us start with the reference 116200. This 2019 model has broad shoulders and fully polished lugs. It utilizes Rolex’s proprietary 904L steel, is said to be more corrosion resistant. It also features a screw-down crown and a hundred meters of water resistance.

The bracelet is pure jewelry, small rounded links contrast between brushed and polished surfaces and mold to your wrist. And when the hidden clasp is this magic you almost stop caring that it lacks micro adjustments. Each word is crisply printed on the dial, referencing this watches important place in horological history. “Oyster” referring to the first waterproof case, “Perpetual” recognizing one of the first self winding movements and “Datejust” the first watch to feature an automatically changing date. This particular reference has the Roman numeral minute track adding visual interest to the edge of the dial, an area that is frequently an afterthought.

Under the hood we get the evolved Rolex Caliber 3135 which is a robust 31 jewel movement featuring a 50 hour power reserve. On the wrist the watch oozes the quality expected of a modern luxury timepiece. You feel the five decades of improved machining, tolerances are tight and details are fine down to a microscopic level. Dressed down on a leather strap the watch becomes a lot less assuming, and won’t draw too much attention, that is until you get close and become mesmerized by that deep sunburst pattern on the dial. The case is designed in a way that it hides the 15 millimeter thickness and by choosing a newer Datejust one is rewarded with modern features such as solid end links, a sapphire crystal, anti magnetic movement, and much better fit and finish. Additionally, the lume is rather serviceable for a dress watch.

But why is the Datejust such a big deal to begin with? Throughout the decades the Datejust has graced the wrists of many luminaries, endlessly customizable, Martin Luther King famously wore an 18 carat gold version on Jubilee. Winston Churchill was gifted one from Hans Wilsdorf and requested to have his family coat of arms engraved on the back. Celebrities pictured with a Datejust include Harrison Ford with his porcelain dialed variant displaying Roman numerals and Daniel Craig with his not so James Bond like modern Rolex, very much like the model we’re reviewing today.

And last, but certainly not least, we’re going to spend a moment talking about a contemporary that I respect greatly. Anthony Bourdain seems to never go anywhere without a watch on his wrist and is often pictured wearing his blue dialed Oyster Perpetual Date, which is essentially a 34 millimeter Datejust. Ostensively a food show, Bourdain’s travels dug deeper to unearth the culture, politics, art, and humanity in the places that he visited. What was different about Anthony, who friends called Tony, was his uncanny ability to cut through the superficial and get under the surface, his gritty and unfiltered style, as well as his often poetic commentary was refreshingly genuine. He was very honest about being imperfect himself and often shared with the audience his past indiscretions and elicit habits embodied on his weathered and tattooed skin. Always somewhat of a troubled man, Anthony Bourdain died by suicide in 2018. So we spend a moment thanking him for teaching us the right way to travel.

Let us turn our attention now to the vintage Datejust this unpolished reference 1603 hails from 1970 and features and engine turn bezel. Obviously having been worn, it’s condition after 50 years of use is a testament to Rolex build quality. The vintage Jubilee bracelet has the stretch associated with its age and together with the friction fitted flip-lock clasp is what my friend [TGV 00:06:08] would call jiggly, jangly. Time has been kind to the silver dial, curing it to a charming golden champagne tone over half of a century. On strap, the watch wears thin, but the longer lugs prevent it from feeling diminutive.

My favorite feature of the 1603 is the [inaudible 00:06:34] stepped down design giving the otherwise flat surface another dimension. The unlumed stick hour markers are beveled down the center to capture light. Though you can tell that the second hand here beats at a much slower frequency than it’s four Hertz counterpart. That is because the 26 jewel caliber 1570 beats just shy of 20,000 BPH and does not feature a quick set date function. On the wrist the vintage Datejust lacks the heft of a modern Rolex. Rather it’s delicate nature reminds me that the watch has been on this earth longer than myself and I am made keenly aware that it has lived a whole life prior to making it to my possession and interacting with it demands a certain level of respect and mechanical empathy. You should choose the vintage Datejust if you view dings and scratches as character building and like the idea of wearing something in boon with life.

So after it’s all said and done which Datejust do I like better? I honestly don’t have the answer to that right now. It’s one of those situations where whichever one I decide to wear for the day, I say, “Yeah, this is the one that I’m keeping.” These two watches share so much similarities in terms of their resemblance to each other and their size. But at the same time on the wrist, they feel like completely different watches. Anyway, which one do you think I should keep? Let me know in the comments below. So thank you for watching WatchCrunch, until next time, take care.

Video Transcript:

Hey guys, I’m Max and this is WatchCrunch. So, you’ve decided to skip your yearly Apple watch upgrade and spend that money on a mechanical timepiece, which one do you get? Well, the $400 price point is a real sweet spot and we have a lot of great choices, but two watches quickly rise to the top of my list when I think about three major characteristics that make a good entry-level mechanical watch.

Number one, design aesthetics. We want something that’s versatile, so I’m not including the Seiko SKX and other very sporty models. Number two, brand heritage. We want something with a little bit of history, and so I’m going to avoid microbrands. Number three is technical specifications. This is the price point where we can expect to get into some higher-end materials like Sapphire Crystal or a hacking movement. With all that said, let’s compare the Seiko SARB033 and the Hamilton Khaki Automatic, and see who takes the crown as the king of $400.

Here are the two watches side by side. Both glossy black dials hailing from opposite continents. Though they take different approaches to their design, they also have many similarities, not least of which are their lovely display case backs showing off the guts of the watches. Let’s talk dimensions first. The Hamilton has a case diameter of 38 millimeters. A 42 is available but personally, that’s a bit big for me. It’s only 11 millimeters thin but has a relatively longer lug to lug of 47. Lug width on both watches are a convenient 20 millimeters.

On the SARB we have the same diameter, but the watch is one millimeter thicker. This, in [concert 00:02:26] with a more compact lug to lug of 44.5 actually makes this watch wear differently, more on that later. The field watch inherited design of the Hamilton is busy, but I wouldn’t call it clutter. Especially details like the concentric ring around the hour markers and the red-tipped secondhand, both adding dimension and visual interest.

The SARB takes a more classic approach. With its dauphine hands and stick hour markers, it’s a bit more stern and it has a little Datejust in it. But Don’t confuse classy with simple. With subtleties like the counterbalance of the second hand shaped like a sewing needle, it’s attention to detail gives it visual endurance.

A funny story, the Hamilton that’s pictured in this video, I actually gifted to a coworker. See, he used to not wear watches but would roll his eyes every time I would drone on about watches. Long story short, after wearing it for a while, now he’s doing research on which Speedmaster to buy next. So with the holiday season coming up, just a reminder, these watches made great gifts as well.

Okay. So does one of these brands have a better history than the other? Well, in 1881, a young Kintaro Hattori founded Seiko, which in Japanese translates to exquisite. The 1960s, [Sol Seiko 00:04:12] introduced their first professional diver as well as becoming one of the first companies to build an automatic chronograph movement. Of course, for better or worse, Seiko was also credited for decimating the Swiss watch industry with the advent of the Quartz Watch.

The ’90s saw the return of Grand Seiko, their high end line. And soon after, the invention of the Spring Drive movement, an achievement three decades in the making, combining the best of mechanical and quartz technologies. Now Hamilton wasn’t far behind, having been founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. With the advent of the airplane, Hamilton supplied watches to the U.S. Air Mail service in the ‘20s.

Hamilton serviced the US Armed Forces during World War two, which is where the Khaki line draws its Field Watch inspirations from. The post-war decades saw Hamilton unveil bold designs in the Ventura, the world’s first electric watch, using a Magnetic Coil movement, and the Pulsar, the world’s first digital watch. In 1974, Hamilton joined the Swatch Group. And to this day, we continue to see Hamilton watches make appearances in Hollywood blockbusters.

Handling the Khaki Field Automatic, one thing that you appreciate is just how thin this case is. Not an easy achievement at this price point, especially considering having to allocate space for a display case back. With it’s elongated lugs, the watch rests flat on the wrist, managing to look appropriate in both formal and casual environments. The SARB on The other hand is a bit more stout in stature, though the lugs do help by turning downward at a more acute angle. The highlight would have to be the numerous alternating brushed and polished surfaces on the case, distinguishing it from other entry-level contenders.

Though no one would fault you for wearing the SARB with shorts and a t-shirt, especially if you throw it on a nylon strap, I think this watch is still better suited for more formal environments. The Hamilton pulls ahead a bit when we compare their movements. The modified ETA 2824, which Hamilton calls the H10 it [inaudible 00:06:52] a higher beat frequency for an astounding 80-hour power reserve. In comparison, the [more pedestrian 00:07:03] 6R15 found in the Seiko is no slouch. Also featuring hacking and hand winding, but it only has a 50-hour power reserve, and is both thicker and less well decorated. Here’s a look at the loom on these watches. I guess we shouldn’t be surprised that more of it is found on the Field Watch.

So both of these are awesome watches that are sure to last for decades, but here’s my take. If you’re looking for the ultimate versatile Jack of all trades to be your only watch, you’ve got to give it up to the Hamilton. But if you’re looking to expand your collection in the future, maybe get something more sporty, then the SARB is what the kids would call classy AF. Okay. Well, in the comments below, let me know your choice for the best first mechanical watch. So thank you for watching. Until next time, take care.

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