#uspensky admiralty church | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

voidsettle · 5 years

Text

Around the Baltics

August 2017

Visiting old Europe is like taking in a breath of history - layer after layer you uncover the epochs blown away, gone with the wind.

Tallinn, the Old City, the Chimney Sweeper monument

Devour your travel; make new experiences an inherent part of your self.

A burning, unsettling desire. Traveling spree. It dawned upon me, and called to arms.

Saint-Petersburg was my first stop. Helsinki - in just one night's ride. Tallinn's across the gulf. Riga. Stockholm. Minsk. Why not make a couple of extra stops on my way home, I thought.

Plan the Basics

Getting lost while on a trip is an easy way to fail your expectations. Spend time inventing a master-plan, answer the three questions: how, where, what.

I started with planning, lots and lots of planning. That's how the travels go - you need to think of the essentials first. How do I get there? Where will I stay? What do I want to see?

We decided to go separate ways, me and my friend. I was near Kharkiv, my friend was in Kiev. I was traveling to Belgorod first to visit my aunt. My friend decided to go through Moscow, to pay her respects to the other great Russian city. Then we'd meet in Peter, go to Finland and Estonia together. A trip of just over a week. Lots to see. Than we go back home and be happy for the next couple of months.

It didn't quite happen as I planned - not after we've completed the 'meet me in Peter' part. That's to be expected in long journeys, and that's the fun of it. No one takes your hand and leads the way. You're on your own, surrounded by unfamiliar city that cares not for you. For me, that's freedom.

Russia. Saint-Petersburg

Peterhof, 'The Sun' fountain

Take your time. Get lost, admire the architecture, spend an hour staring into the waters of Neva - Peter will appreciate your idleness.

It's never an easy city for amateurs - although one of the most beautiful I've ever seen. A true museum under the open skies; it breathes history on every corner, in every building, under every roof.

It's a good thing I've already been there and had a chance to fall in love. Peter has always been kind to me. They say, the weather is awful throughout the year. I say, you need to know when to come. It's best during August, when summer gives away the last of its warmth, but the leaves don't yet start their yellow fall.

Here's a perfect Peter cocktail:

2 parts parks

2 parts museums

pinch of architecture

Mix, don't stir. Sprinkle with slow street-walking a-plenty.

And so I did. Katherine Park and Peterhof are probably best known and a must-see for any traveler. Same goes for the museums - the large complexes of Russian Museum and Hermitage take you on a diverse and serene tour through the history of art.

Aivazovsky 'The Ninth Wave'

Shishkin 'Oaks'

Altman 'Portrait of Anna Akhmatova'

Plastov 'Midday'

And surely, when you visit St Petersburg, you feel nostalgic. That's the bizarre super-power of this city that infatuates you even when you've never been here before. I particularly enjoy the shining spear of the Admiralty, the stoned passions of Anichkov Bridge, and the curve of the bridge to Vasilievsky Island. My bittersweet tears of joy and feather-light melancholy.

I studied Peter in walking miles. The only regret? Not enough time to turn into a couple of true stray cats and walk the shining roofs.

The Bronze Horseman

Tips for travelers

What to see: Nevski Avenue, Hermitage, Admiralty, Vasilievski Island, church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, Anichkov Bridge, Kazan Cathedral, Saint Isaac's Cathedral, the Bronze Horseman, Russian Museum, Summer Garden, Peterhof, Katherine Palace and Park

What to eat: bliny (with caviar preferably), shchi (beetroot soup), cabbage rolls, pelmeni (meat dumplings), kvass (rye bread beverage)

Spend some time in the waiting line for the fried doughnuts with powdered sugar and absolutely hideous coffee on the Great Konyushennaya St. The lovely cats, the nostalgic feel of the Soviet past, and the people around you - it's the oldest place in Saint-Petersburg that sells these buns. The ambiance is totally worth it.

Finland. Helsinki

Sailing from Helsinki to Tallinn

Despite all the planning, we couldn't miss our adventure on the way to Helsinki. We opted for a bus trip - the sea voyage was way too expensive, and also the tickets were much harder to get. Or so we thought.

Getting bus tickets turned into a real pain - nobody wanted to take two Ukrainian passengers across the border between Russia and Europe. Through tears and angst, we got the last 2 from the official bus operator, lucky us.

And so we spent the night in the bus. The transition between Russia and Europe was drastic - the Russian border guards were sleepy and irate, but the Finnish boy met me with a dazzling smile, fresh as a daisy at 3 in the morning. We arrived around 6 AM, and I had not a wink of sleep. After a bit of meddling and harassing the police officer near the Helsinki subway we got to the port and bought a couple of tickets to the boat that'd take us to Tallinn that evening.

Hello from Scandinavia, cold but heartwarming. Don't use public transport - Helsinki is tiny, just walk around.

Helsinki Cathedral and the monument dedicated to Nicolas II

The streets of Finnish capital were casually covered in drowsy slumber. It drizzled a bit here and there as we walked from the port to the city center - a surprisingly short stroll. We had a bite and a coffee at the waterfront (at a local fair on the Market Square), and indulged in the shiny architectural flow from Byzantine Revival of Uspenski Cathedral to Neoclassicism of the Lutheran Helsinki Cathedral and Alvar Aalto's Modernism to Nordic Classicism.

We were lucky to catch a free tour around the city center - a young Finnish guide told us about local sights and gave precious bits on information about the city. The best experience during the tour - he guided us into the new library of the University of Helsinki. I have never seen such a frank, explicit example of the Nordic architecture. The candid use of light and curved shapes is unbelievable.

University of Helsinki New Kaisa library

After a lot of ravenous looking around and a short lunch at the Old Market Hall, we headed toward Solo Sokos Torni, the hotel that boasts one of the best cityscapes from the Ateljee bar on its 15th floor. We arrived at 1:50 PM, 10 minutes before the bar opens - lucky again. Coffee up there's pretty expensive - solid €5 for a cup of espresso - but still worth it. The view extraordinaire with scheme explaining what you're looking at, soft wind, people from all over the world (we met an American photographer from Middle West). Besides, it was a useful stop as we decided our route from up above.

Finnish people drink coffee as if it was water. Mind they roast coffee weakly - don't expect anything fancy, you southern squirt.

Helsinki appeared to be much smaller than we'd expected, and so we had some free time before our boat. We could enjoy a traditional Finnish sauna but decided in favor of Kiasma - one of the most influential contemporary art galleries in the world. The feeling I got was vividly similar to the one in NY MoMA - the abundance of art that needs context always slams me into the odd combination of amusement and bewilderment. A nice experience, though, mostly since it was really different from the refined delicacy of the classical art in Saint-Petersburg.

Fighting for food with local seals

Tips for travelers

What to see: Uspenski Cathedral, Helsinki Cathedral, Stora Enso HQ (Aalto), University of Helsinki New Kaisa library, Kamppi Church of Silence, Temppeliaukio (Rock) Church, Central Train Station, Old Market Hall

What to eat: kalakeitto (fish soup), smoked herring and salmon, lohikeitto (creamy salmon soup), venison, rye bread, sultsina (fried flatbread with filling)

For lunch, visit the Old Market Hall and have some soup; bread and water are for free. It's a traditional light Finnish lunch. Also, graavilohi (smoked fish sandwich) is obligatory - don't leave Finland without trying one. Enjoy the typically Scandinavian lunch: small tables with high bar stools in the open, observing the passers-by and letting them observe you in return.

Estonia. Tallinn

Pirita beach at sunset

Don't neglect the call, no matter how minute. Explore the tiny passages - and you'll find the way to the hidden gems.

Meeting new people is always the best part of any trip. It's human interaction that we seek, the warmth and unique relationships we build. We meet new people, however shortly. We learn new things about people we travel with. But most importantly - we study ourselves, as it's in travel that we uncover our hidden flaws and potentials.

It's this understanding that Tallinn gifted me with. Coming here after two great cities, major museums, splendid architecture - what more could have I expected?

Estonians amazed us with reverent respect toward their past. The benign Old City behind the medieval towered walls is preserved carefully and mindfully. Most houses have signs shortly transcribing their history; the whole city gives off the museum feel not even Peter has. The carefully constructed panorama points, the lively yet solemn streets, the hidden gems of Tallinn - I fell for the city head over heels in mere minutes.

Standing on a specific spot on the Town Hall square, find the 5 major spires of the city: Town Hall, St Nicholas church, church of the Holy Spirit, St Olaf church and the Dome Cathedral

Besides, I could feel the familiar spirit. A lot of older people speak Russian, the city outside its old museum part is distinctively familiar: the remnants of the Soviets still wander the streets of Tallinn.

We had two full days in the city, the first spent exploring the historic center, above and beneath the surface (the visit to the underground tunnel starting beneath the Kiek in de Kok tower was unexpectedly chilly), the second allotted to meeting with friends.

Ah, the delight of being taken around the area by the locals! The impressive grandeur of the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds contrasting the cute coziness of the Kadriorg Palace, the beautiful, grey-blue and windy Pirita beach with soft warm sand and the sun dipping slumberly into the sea. There's probably nothing as wondrous and strange as getting acquainted at sunset, with the masts of the yachts slowly swaying the rising tide on the backdrop of the burning skies.

Visiting friends whenever I go abroad is one of the best odd habits I've ever adopted.

St Catherine's Passage - the arts and crafts at the historical sight

Tips for travelers

What to see: Raekoja (Town Hall) plats, Tall Hermann, Fat Margaret, Kiek in de Kök, Neitsitorn (Maiden Tower), three monks, Aleksander Nevski cathedral, Toomkirik, Freedom Square, St Catherine's Passage, Three Sisters, ruins of XV century St Brigitta church (Pirita Klooster)

What to eat: Rosolje (potato salad), pirukad (salty pastries), leivasupp (sweet soup), black rye bread

Mix the beauty of the Tallinn cityscape with a nice cup of warm capuccino at a cafe Dannebrog near the Maiden Tower. For most exquisite cuisine with a clear waff of medieval recipes visit Olde Hansa - arguably the most authentic place in Tallinn.

Sweden. Stockholm

Stortorget, Gamla Stan

I parted ways with my friend, and headed for Riga. Not for long - intending to come back, I was too anxious to visit another grand capital first.

Traveling around Baltics, one absolutely has to pay respect to Stockholm, the cradle of Baltic imperial grandeur.

Romantika ferry, lounge bar. Photo by Nentsi

Surprisingly enough, the voyage on a cruise liner was less of a stress than I would've expected. I am usually seasick but the huge ship was stable enough that I could get a decent sleep at night. Besides, I enjoyed myself quite a lot. Played my first game of Bingo (no winning though; I never was the one to get it in such feats without real intellectual effort involved). Had an absolutely gorgeous cup of coffee at the lounge bar listening to live blues. Made an acquaintance with a British bard, the fling that ended without even starting properly, hah.

Arriving in Stockholm, I believed to be prepared enough. I memorized the route, knew the things I wanted to see, and had extremely little time for sightseeing along with a detailed, tight schedule to follow. But it wouldn't be a great trip if everything went as planned.

Sweden is unexpectedly reluctant to greet tourists: nobody in Stockholm seems to care the least bit about anything. Swedish people are very relaxed and self-absorbed.

I spent an hour just looking for a subway station. On my way, I unexpectedly picked up a tourist family from Moscow, a very energetic woman with two teenage children. They became my traveling partners for this trip and also the people I unintendedly gave a tour around the city - ironic, given I've never been to Sweden before.

Mårten Trotzigs gränd (Alley of Mårten Trotzig)

Guiding the tourists in a city you've never been to - that's what I remember about Stockholm best. The short time I had to spend there definitely added to the fun and craziness of the voyage. Being good with maps and preliminary reading allowed me to find our way through the net of narrow winding streets of Gamla Stan - with occasionally picking up of the sights. I had fun looking for the narrowest street in Stockholm, Mårten Trotzigs gränd - fortunately, Swedes speak English pretty great. We witnessed the changing of the guard near the Royal Palace, visited the Royal Armory and the Chapel, got lost and found Riddarholmen, the Knights' Island with the Riddarholm royal burial church dating back to 13th century - pure fascination at the solemn tranquility of its architecture.

Vasa ship, built 1627, sank 1628, lifted from seabed 1961

A rapid tour around Gamla Stan took around 2 and a half hours - we were already past the schedule as we wanted to visit Vasa museum before taking off. Buying public transport tickets in Stockholm turned out to be a real pain but we finally managed to get to Vasa, and the ship met our expectations to the fullest. The number of details on this chef-d'oeuvre, the craftsmanship and input care were as astonishing as the simple realization that hit even me, who has no experience in ship engineering: she was not supposed to sail. The narrow hull combined low landing and overall weight surely wouldn't let Vasa keep on the surface. Yet another thing that surprised me greatly was its preservation due to bog oak. No wonder it is considered royalty among the wood.

All the running around, I barely had the time for food. My wards dutifully fed me some crackers with cheese but I set my mind to having a taste of Swedish cuisine. Best place - indoor markets (because oh the biting prices).

Gamla Stan, the narrow streets and dense building development of older Stockholm

Tips for travelers

What to see: Gamla Stan (Stortorget, Nobel Museum, Mårten Trotzigs gränd, Royal Palace with Armory, Crown Hall and Chapel, Storkyrkan) Ridderholmen and Riddarholmskyrkan, Vasa museum, Stockholm subway

What to eat: meatballs with mashed potatoes, cream sauce and lingonberries, toast Skagen, gravlax (dill-cured salmon), knäckebröd (crisp bread), chives and sour cream, smörgåsbord, prinskorvar (mini sausages), gubbröra (egg & anchovy salad), yellow pea soup and punch, saffransbullar & cinnamon buns

In Stockholm, indoor markets are close to small open-area restaurants in typical Scandinavian style, with high stools facing the aisles between the counters full of improbably good-looking food. What to eat if you only have time and space for one meal? Swedish meatballs, obviously. Tasty, homemade-style and extremely nourishing.

Latvia. Riga

Riga. Old Town

In Riga, I was already exhausted. I left 4 cities behind me, the beautiful spirits. Luckily, I had friends waiting for me in Riga. At the time I was not constrained with the worries of an office job, so I could spend some time exploring Riga and enjoying the company.

After the tight cozy Tallinn and the venerable patriarchal Stockholm covered in the crust of time, Riga appeared almost modern, surely the monument to Art Noveau built at the break of the millennia.

The first day was completely absorbed by the historic Riga - the War Museum located in the older fortification tower, the small Our Lady of Sorrows Church near Riga Castle, the Town Hall Square and the Dome Cathedral with clouds of pigeons swarming in circles. The local air, warm and damp, made my hair curl.

Leave the umbrella behind for the city of slow walks and warm rainshowers. You might get wet but never cold - that’s the remarkable feature of Latvian climate.

Afterwards, the rest I needed could no longer be delayed, and so the spacious expanses of Latvian beaches came to replace the architectural jungles of the historic city. Long beach walks are exactly right for when you’re in the mood to get lonely. Seagulls, tall tidal waves, rare sunbathers, even rarer swimmers, and the dreamy sand dunes that shelter coastline from the chill salty winds of the Baltic sea.

Daugavgriva, Latvia. Finally the beach vacation - although I’m not sure swimming is possible in this cold and shallow sea

Being in Latvia, I wanted to go see Jurmala, the renowned pearl of the Baltic sea. The beach is not exactly for swimming though - it’s that type of sea, where you cannot drown despite your desire and eagerness to try. However, it’s wide strand is great for festivities, or even for exhibiting sculptures unafraid of moisture and temperature differences. The city itself is sleepy and sluggish, covered in the distinctive charm of a resort town. There’re little places able to evoke such a lingering wistfulness with the taste of viscous coniferous warmth.

Jurmala beach. The remnants of the Ligo celebrations

Tips for travelers

What to see: Vecrīga, House of the Blackheads, the Dome (Riga) Cathedral, St Peter’s Church, St John’s Church, Swedish Gate, Our Lady of Sorrows Church, Riga Castle, Three Brothers, the Powder Tower, St James’s Cathedral, Small Guild

What to eat: grey peas with smoked bacon, cold beetroot soup, rye bread, rasol (potato salad), speck, maizes zupa (rye bread pudding), Riga balsam

It was surprisingly hard to find a place in Riga that served traditional food at reasonable prices - but I managed to find one right behind the House of the Blackheads. It’s better to choose a table outside; in colder weather, ask for a plaid and a cup of coffee paired with Riga balsam, a fantastic combination. Tip 10% - for pinchpenny Europe, it’s generous enough to make all the staff cordially affectionate.

Belarus. Minsk

Government House and Lenin monument, Independence Square

My vacation was nearing its end; obviously I wanted to extend it however possible. That’s why I was absolutely thrilled to hear one of my friends was currently in Minsk, and was planning to leave on the same day (neh - by the same bus) as me. Such small world.

The architecture of Minsk is impressively huge and massive - the true hymn to Constructivism and Stalin Empire.

After the dreamless night in a bus taking me from Riga to Minsk, and an absolutely horrid customs control that made me feel at home, I was in Minsk, the grey and enormous city. Broad boulevards, wide streets, bulky gloomy architecture - Minsk was dramatically different from the cozy consistent solidity of the Baltic capitals.

Breaking into the old fire department headquarters

Except for the Trinity Hill; the oldest part of Minsk is very Europe-ish. Same clusterness of churches and cathedrals, same ruffled aggregation of bronze monuments, same distant spirit waffing history down the paved streets. I personally loved the bench that plays Oginski’s Polonaise when you sit on it - a nice touch reminding you about the recent revival of Belarusian capital.

I’m not sure it’s true but we had a theory of conspiracy as it seemed that all red brick buildings in Minsk belong to the government one way or another. A fun thought to speculate when wandering around the city like Minsk.

The newer part of the city is distinctively younger - the beginning of the 20th century at best. Extended solid blocks cascading along the broad avenues reference the mass urbanization and the growth of major cities. Churches and cathedrals that were colossal and sublime before scientific revolution kicked in are tiny and lost on the backdrop of these structures.

Tips for travelers

What to see: Vorota Minska, Trinity Hill, Holy Spirit Cathedral, St Joseph Church, Church of the Hole Apostles Peter and Paul, Independence Avenue, National Library of Belarus, National Opera and Ballet Theatre, Church of Saints Simon and Helena, All Saints Church

What to eat: draniki (potato pancakes), kluski & kalduny (potato dumplings), babka (potato pudding), sorrel soup

Yup, you’ll have potato everything when in Belarus - and it’s no wonder. For a long time, potato was the major export produce, and even now we, the Southeastern neighbors, sometimes affectionately refer to Belorussians as ’bulbashi’, literally ‘potato people’.

Instead of the epilogue

Coming back home after a journey that takes up over 3 weeks is weird. You seem to forget a lot about your hometown, and yet you feel strangely relieved and at ease. I particularly like this feeling of familiarity as if you own the city around you simply by knowing its every crack, all ins and outs.

Looking back now, even after the horrid marathon of 2 consecutive sleepless bus-riding nights between the three cities of Riga-Minsk-Kiev, this was one of the best experiences of my life. This roundabout travel became the precedent that I will later see as a joyous excuse for extended trips with multiple cities and countries included on the travel list.

Peterhof. The Gulf of Finland

Travel further. Go beyond!

#baltics #saint-petersburg #russia #helsinki #finland #tallinn #estonia #stockholm #sweden #riga #jurmala #latvia #minsk #belarus #peterhof

0 notes