Any time a bird is in captivity of any kind without fail there’s someone who shows up and goes ‘:( so sad, it should be FREE!’ Which, I’m very aware of the problems with cagebirds, but someone does this every time including when the bird in question is very clearly a genetic freak of some sort. For example, a rescue aviary near me used to have a lovely fantail dove, who according to volunteers was extremely friendly and loved cuddles and sitting on people’s heads. She’s passed away now, sadly, but on the aviary facebook there’s an old video of her and someone has put one of those comments along the lines of she should be in the wild. But she was so visibly a product of human selective breeding it was unreal. She had a huge, bulgy chest and her neck was bent so far back that the resting position of her head was on her back. If her eyes weren’t on the sides of her head she wouldn’t have been able to see over her own chest. Not all fantail doves look like this, but this one was so extreme looking that they had a little sign on the aviary reassuring people she was alright. I just wondered where exactly this commenter imagined she would belong if all the birds in the aviary were released into the wild and somehow back into their ideal habitats. There’s nowhere in the world outside of in the care of humans where a bird looking like that would be remotely ok.

Introducing the Koi Betta: A Splash of Color and Elegance

 The Koi Betta, also known as the Siamese Fighting Fish or Betta splendens, is an enthralling aquatic creature that has won the hearts of fish enthusiasts all over the world. The Koi Betta is a captivating addition to any aquarium due to its vibrant colors, flowing fins, and intricate patterns. Their distinct appearance and endearing behavior make them a popular choice among fishkeepers. Let's delve into the world of Koi Bettas and discover what makes them so appealing.

They have a wide range of appearances and characteristics that distinguish them from other fish species. They exude grace and sophistication with their long, flowing fins that resemble the elegant kimono robes. Their vibrant colors are reminiscent of ornamental Koi fish, hence the name "Koi Betta." Their body colors and patterns can vary greatly, including shades of red, orange, yellow, white, and black, resulting in a kaleidoscope of hues. Each person has a unique combination of colors and patterns, making them look like living works of art.

Consider two examples to demonstrate the remarkable variety: the "Scarlet Sakura" and the "Golden Sunset." The Scarlet Sakura is a vibrant blend of red and white hues, with the red resembling cherry blossom petals against a snowy canvas. The Golden Sunset, on the other hand, has a stunning interplay of golden and orange tones that reflects the warm hues of a setting sun. These examples show the wide range of colors that can be displayed, making them a captivating sight to behold.

Origins to Characteristics: General Information

The Koi Betta is native to Southeast Asia, specifically Thailand and Cambodia, where they thrive in warm, shallow water.

Size: They grow to be about 2.5 to 3 inches (6.5 to 7.5 cm) long on average, including their gracefully flowing fins.

Lifespan: With proper care, can live for 2 to 4 years, though some people have been known to live longer.

Male Koi Bettas are known for their territorial and aggressive behavior, whereas females are less combative. Because of their aggressive nature, male Koi Bettas should be housed alone to avoid fighting.

They have an elongated body and their most distinguishing feature is their long, flowing fins. Their caudal (tail) fin is frequently the focal point, with intricate patterns and vibrant colors reminiscent of Koi fish fins.

Koi Bettas are available in a wide range of colors and patterns. The "Dragon Scale," with its iridescent scales resembling dragon armor; the "Mustard Gas," with a striking combination of blue and yellow hues; and the "Cellophane," with translucent fins that shimmer in the light, are all popular varieties.

Price: Koi Betta prices vary greatly depending on factors such as color, pattern, and lineage. Prices can range from $10 to $50 on average, with rare and highly sought-after specimens commanding higher prices.

Requirements for a Tranquil Haven's Habitat and Tank

Because they are native to warm, tropical regions, recreating their natural habitat is critical to their health. A single tank should be about 5 to 10 gallons (19 to 38 liters). It's critical to keep water parameters stable, such as a temperature range of 78 to 80°F (25.5 to 26.5°C) and a pH level between 6.5 and 7.5. A heater and thermometer are useful additions to keep the environment at its best.

There should be plenty of hiding places in the tank, such as caves, plants, and decorations. Live or silk plants not only add to the aesthetic appeal but also provide you with shelter. A gentle filter and regular water changes will aid in the preservation of water quality, which is essential for their health.

Feeding: A Vibrancy-Friendly Diet

They are carnivores, so their diet should consist primarily of high-quality betta pellets, frozen or live foods, and occasional treats such as bloodworms or brine shrimp. A varied diet ensures they get the nutrients they need for vibrant colors and overall well-being. Overfeeding can cause health problems, so feed them small portions once or twice a day.

Breeding: The Reproductive Dance

Breeding Koi Bettas necessitates meticulous planning and attention to detail. Males construct bubble nests at the water's surface, where females deposit their eggs. After the eggs hatch, the male guards the nest and cares for the developing fry. Breeding necessitates specific conditions, such as warm water and closely monitored parameters.

Health Concerns and Preventive Measures

They are prone to a variety of health problems, including fungal and bacterial infections, fin rot, and parasites. These problems can be avoided by maintaining clean water, providing a balanced diet, and avoiding overstocking. It's also a good idea to quarantine new fish before introducing them to your main tank to avoid disease spread.

Coexistence and Care are two special considerations.

Because of their territorial nature, they should be kept alone. They may be irritated by tankmates, particularly other Betta fish. However, with careful consideration, some peaceful community fish, such as small schooling species and bottom-dwellers, may be compatible.

Conclusion and Legal Restrictions

Before purchasing a Koi Betta, always check local regulations, as some areas have restrictions on the ownership of certain fish species.

Harmony Koi Betta Varieties

Peaceful community fish like neon tetras, corydoras catfish, and snails are good tankmates.

Gender Differences: Male vs. Female

Male and female Koi Bettas differ in terms of size, fin length, and color intensity. Males have longer fins and more vibrant colors than females.

A Comparison of Koi Betta and Standard Goldfish

While both are popular aquarium fish, they differ in size, behavior, and tank requirements. When compared to the larger and more hardy Standard Goldfish, Koi Bettas are smaller, more colorful, and better suited for smaller aquariums.

Finally, the is a captivating aquatic jewel that captivates the imagination with its stunning colors, graceful fins, and endearing behavior. Aquarists can create a vibrant and harmonious home for these remarkable fish by understanding their origins, characteristics, and care requirements.

Introducing the Koi Betta: A Splash of Color and Elegance

 The Koi Betta, which is also called the Siamese Fighting Fish or Betta splendens, is a beautiful fish that has won the hearts of fish lovers all over the world. The Koi Betta is a beautiful fish that is known for its bright colors, flowing fins, and intricate patterns. Their unique looks and friendly behavior make them a popular choice among fish keepers. Let's learn more about Koi Bettas and find out what makes them so interesting.

Have a lot of different looks and traits that make them different from other fish species. They give off an air of grace and sophistication with their long, flowing fins that look like the beautiful robes of a kimono. Because their bright colors look like those of Koi fish kept as decorations, they are called "Koi Betta." They can have a wide range of colors and patterns on their bodies, such as different shades of red, orange, yellow, white, and black. Each person has a unique mix of colors and patterns that makes them look like living works of art.

First, let's look at two examples of the huge variety: the "Scarlet Sakura" and the "Golden Sunset." The Scarlet Sakura is a bright mix of red and white colors. The red looks like the petals of cherry blossoms against a white background. The Golden Sunset, on the other hand, has a beautiful mix of orange and golden tones that look like the sun going down. These examples show the wide range of colors that can be shown, which makes them beautiful to look at.

Information about the whole thing, from its history to its traits

Origin: The Koi Betta comes from Southeast Asia, mostly Thailand and Cambodia, where the water is warm and shallow.

Size: They usually get about 2.5 to 3 inches (6.5 to 7.5 cm) long, which includes their beautiful fins.

Lifespan: With the right care, can live for about two to four years, though some people have lived longer.

How they act: Male Koi Bettas are known for being territorial and aggressive, but females are usually less hostile. Because they are naturally aggressive, male Koi Bettas should be kept alone to avoid fighting.

The longest part of their bodies is their tail, and their long, flowing fins are what makes them stand out. Their caudal (tail) fin is often the most noticeable part. It has beautiful patterns and bright colors that make it look like the fins of Koi fish.

Types and Colors: Koi Bettas have a lot of different patterns and colors. Some popular types are the "Dragon Scale," which has iridescent scales that look like dragon armor, the "Mustard Gas," which has a beautiful mix of blue and yellow colors, and the "Cellophane," which has clear fins that sparkle in the light.

Price: Koi Bettas can be very different prices depending on their colors, patterns, and lineage, among other things. Usually, can cost anywhere from $10 to $50, but very rare or sought-after specimens can fetch more.

Needs for Habitat and Tank: Making a Peaceful Haven

They come from warm, tropical places, so making their natural habitat is very important for their health. A 5 to 10 gallon (19 to 38 liter) tank is a good size for a single person. It's very important to keep the water stable, with a pH level between 6.5 and 7.5 and a temperature range of 78 to 80°F (25.5 to 26.5°C). A heater and thermometer are useful additions to keep the right temperature and humidity.

There should be lots of places to hide in the tank, like caves, plants, and decorations. Live or fake plants not only make a room look better, they also give you a place to hide. The water quality, which is very important for their health, can be kept up with a gentle filter and regular water changes.

Food: A Well-Balanced Diet for Energy

They eat meat, so they should mostly eat high-quality betta pellets, frozen or live foods, and treats like bloodworms or brine shrimp every once in a while. Giving them a variety of foods makes sure they get all the nutrients they need for healthy colors and overall well-being. Small meals should be given to them once or twice a day because too much food can be bad for their health.

Breeding: The Dance of Having Children

Planning ahead and paying close attention to detail are important when breeding Koi Bettas. Males make bubble nests on the surface of the water and try to get females to lay their eggs there. Once the male fertilizes the eggs, he carefully watches over the nest and takes care of the young fry. Breeding needs certain conditions, like warm water and parameters that are carefully watched.

Common health problems and ways to avoid them

They can get a lot of different health problems, like parasites, fungal and bacterial infections, and fin rot. These problems can be avoided by keeping the water clean, giving animals a balanced diet, and not having too many animals. To stop the spread of disease, you should also keep new fish in a separate tank before putting them in the main tank.

Take a look at these extra things: coexistence and care

Because they are territorial, they should be kept alone. They might not get along with other fish in the tank, especially Betta fish. But some fish that live in peaceful communities, like small schooling species and bottom-dwellers, may be able to live together with some care.

Legal Limitations and the End

Before you buy a Koi Betta, you should always check the local rules. Some areas don't allow people to own certain types of fish.

Different Types of Koi Betta for Harmony

Peaceful community fish like neon tetras, corydoras catfish, and snails get along well with each other.

Differences Between Male and Female

The male and female Koi Bettas are different in size, fin length, and color intensity. Most of the time, males have longer fins and brighter colors.

What's Different About Koi Betta and Regular Goldfish?

Both are popular choices among aquarists, but they have different needs when it comes to size, behavior, and tanks. Standard Goldfish are bigger and tougher, but Koi Bettas are smaller, more colorful, and better for smaller aquariums.

And finally, the is a beautiful aquatic jewel that captivates the mind with its stunning colors, graceful fins, and enticing behavior. Aquarists can make a vibrant and peaceful home for these amazing fish by learning about where they came from, what they look like, and how to take care of them.

How to choose your perfect Florida Keys aquarium design?

An aquarium is a vivarium of any size with at least one transparent side in which aquatic plants or animals are kept and displayed. Aquariums are a fun addition to any home that provides a necessary relaxing ambiance, especially in a hectic work environment. Observing fish swimming gives you a relaxing mood. However, installing an aquarium in your home or office requires a lot of space and careful planning.

Florida Keys aquarium design and process

Aquariums necessitate a great deal of planning. If something isn't quite right, the entire aquarium system could be at risk. For an aquarium to succeed, everything in it must be in order, from the measurements to the fish. Before you begin, you should decide whether you want a saltwater or freshwater aquarium. This is because the needs of a freshwater aquarium differ from those of a saltwater aquarium. Freshwater or saltwater, some fish will not grow if the inner conditions are not in their favor. If this is your first time keeping fish, a tropical freshwater tank is a good place to start.

The fish are the most important factor to consider when designing a Florida Keys aquarium design. Certain fish species cannot coexist, and some species cannot survive in the presence of other species. Every fish necessitates a specific set of circumstances. Tropical fish, for example, will require a heater to keep the water temperature consistent.

The process of determining where something is located is another critical thought process. Is it necessary to look at things from all sides? Is it necessary for it to be a small or large hole in the wall? Is it going to be a free-standing tank or will it have a stand? There are numerous factors to consider when it comes to tank placement. Of course, the aquatic landscape's background will need to be chosen.

The aquarium's decoration is equally important. The fish will want to settle into their new environment. This necessitates incorporating their natural environment into your design concepts. Others prefer seclusion, sand, or gravel, while others prefer to play behind and among rocks.

The bigger the Florida Keys aquarium design will be, the more fish can be kept inside. Fish, like humans, need their own private space. The aquarium must be much larger, especially if you want to keep larger fish. Although the startup costs will appear high, the majority of them will be one-time purchases.

Finally, when it comes to designing the ideal aquarium, there are a lot of things to consider. It is, however, straightforward once the preliminary planning is finished.

Betta 101: A Care Guide For the Uninformed

Y’all know betta fish, those cute little fuckers that want to fight anything and everything. These are my tiny assholes, Helios and Mercury:

[Image description: Two side-by-side photos of betta fish. The first photo shows Helios, a black halfmoon betta with yellow fins. He is swimming through the leaves of a plant rooted in colorful gravel. The second photo shows Mercury, a purple and pink veiltail betta, resting idle at the top of his aquarium. End image description.]

Betta fish are some of the most popular fish in the aquarium hobby, and no wonder! They’re cute! They have a wide variety of colors and fin shapes, and each one is truly beautiful. They stand out in any aquarium, especially in aquariums with darker-colored decorations.

The thing about bettas, though, is that there are a lot of misconceptions about how to take care of them. Every few days I see someone else buying a betta that they’re not equipped to care for, and it makes me so sad.

Because bettas are so damn popular, they’re also, sadly, one of the most mistreated pet fish on the market. Since I’ve spent a lot of time both learning about and caring for betta fish, I thought I’d put together a quick 101 guide and resource list for anyone interested in getting a betta of their own!

This’ll be pretty long, so the rest of the post is under a cut.

Rule Number One: Bettas are not decorations!

Because betta fish are so beautiful and attention-grabbing, they’re often thought of, and used as, nothing more than decorations. Betta fish in tiny bowls or cups are used as centerpieces at weddings, bettas get added to vases of cut flowers to add some pizzazz, and bettas get put in artsy glass bowls to brighten up some bank manager’s office somewhere.

None of those are acceptable ways to house a betta fish! Bettas are not decorations, and they need to be cared for by someone who loves and values them as a living creature, not an attention-grabbing bauble.

Rule Number Two: Bowls are bad!

There’s a very persistent myth about betta fish: “they live in puddles, so they don’t need very much space.” It’s why they wind up in things like centerpieces and vases so often. The thing is, just because betta fish are capable of surviving harsh conditions and minimal amounts of water for a while, it doesn’t mean they’re able to thrive.

Betta fish do not naturally live in puddles! They are native to Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam, and live in rivers, canals, and bodies of standing water such as rice paddies and flood plains. If a betta lives in a rice paddy or floodplain and the water level drastically decreases, bettas are equipped to survive those harsh conditions for a short period of time, but it is not a healthy way for them to live their entire lives. They require plenty of space to swim and claim territory.

The suggested minimum amount of water for a pet betta fish is 2.5 gallons, or 9.5 litres. Personally, I don’t like to keep a betta in anything less than 5 gallons, or 19 litres, but that’s just my preference because, on average, the smaller the aquarium, the more frequent the need for water changes and maintenance. Currently, the smallest tank I have is 10 gallons, which houses a single betta.

Rule Number Three: Temperature is important!

Wild bettas live in a tropical environment, which needs they need warmer water! Your betta aquarium should have a consistent, steady water temperature of between 74 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, or 23 to 27 degrees Celsius.

Some people who live in warmer climates may not need to use a constant heater, but every aquarium should have a thermometer so you can check the temperature. If you can’t maintain a betta-appropriate temperature without a heater, you’ll need to get one.

Some aquarium heaters are pre-set to specific temperatures, which are fine as long as they’re preset to the right one, and some heaters are adjustable -- it doesn’t matter which one you get and is largely a matter of preference. I have both types of heater and find them equally easy to use, though adjustable heaters have the benefit of versatility should you want to keep different fish in the future.

Rule Number Four: Filters are a must!

You need a filter, period. There are many types of filter, and aquarium hobbyists have different preferences for different fish, but what matters is that a filter exists in your tank. The hang-on-the-back style filters that come in most aquarium kits are perfectly fine, though it’s important that your filter has a low flow, because betta fish can be battered around by strong currents in an aquarium. You should also avoid under-the-gravel style filters, as they are largely not effective enough to filter an appropriately-sized tank.

For those looking for a budget-friendly option, many betta keepers love sponge filters! I personally don’t use them, not for any particular reason other than hang-on-the-back filters were what I had on hand.

I personally don’t have a lot of experience with every kind of filter, so if you’re interested in more details about your filter options, I recommend these YouTube videos:

How to Choose The Right Filter For Your Aquarium!

10 Things You Should Know About Aquarium Filters

Fish Tank Filter Basics!

The BEST Aquarium Filter for BEGINNERS?

Rule Number Five: Careful with decor!

Bettas have very delicate fins that can be easily caught and shredded on sharp decorations. Most plastic plants are dangerous to bettas for this reason. The general guideline for betta-safe decorations is that if you can lightly sweep a single piece of toilet paper across the surface of a decoration without ripping, it should be safe for your betta. If the TP rips, it’s not a betta-safe decoration.

If you notice your betta’s fins are ripped or damaged, and it isn’t a case of fin rot*, it could be damage due to a sharp decoration that you need to remove.

You should also be careful not to use any decorations that might leech paint or other harmful chemicals into your aquarium water. When in doubt, err on the side of caution and choose a different decoration.

* For more about fin rot, see this YouTube video: FIN ROT Fish Disease Prevention and Treatment

Rule Number Six: Bettas need hiding places!

A betta fish’s natural environment is filled with plants and plenty of places to hide, so you should provide them in your aquarium!

Live plants such as anubias and java fern, and floating plants such as salvinia and Amazon frogbit, are perfect and typically easy to find in aquarium shops. With betta fish, there really is no such thing as “too many plants.”

Live plants can be intimidating, though, especially for new aquarium hobbyists. If you can’t find or don’t want live plants, you can get your betta some silk ones instead.

You should also provide things like caves for your betta to hide in. These can be whatever you’d like, from natural-looking logs to hollowed-out coconut shells to colorful themed decor. Just remember what I said up in rule number four about sharp plastic and chemicals!

Rule Number Seven: Careful with tankmates!

Betta fish are highly territorial and extremely aggressive. If you put more than one male betta fish in a tank, they will kill each other, full stop. Your betta does not need a buddy to keep him from getting lonely, end of story, and intentionally housing multiple male betta fish together is blatant animal cruelty.

So don’t do it.

Some experienced betta keepers may keep multiple female betta fish together in an aquarium called a “sorority tank,” but it must be done extremely carefully, and may still be prone to fighting, so this isn’t something you should do if you’ve never kept bettas before.

Male and female fish are never kept together except for supervised mating by an experienced breeder. In the wild, female bettas are able to leave as soon as they release their eggs, leaving the male fish to tend the nest of eggs. In an aquarium, a female must be removed immediately after releasing her eggs, or the two fish will fight, most likely to the death.

While betta fish are territorial and aggressive, and can’t be housed with their own species, they can sometimes be kept with other species of fish. Mileage varies depending on the individual temperaments of your fish, though, and you should carefully research any species you intend to house together.

I have experience keeping my bettas with snails and neon tetras, and they all get along just fine, but other betta keepers have had different experience. For more information on selecting potential tankmates, check out the YouTube videos below:

Top 10 Tank Mates For Bettas

7 Most Popular Betta Tank Mates You Need to Try

Betta Fish Tank Mates | Top 10 Most Popular Tank Mates For Bettas

BETTA FISH TANK MATES | 10 More Great Tank Mates For Bettas

Compatible Tank Mates for Betta Fish

Top 4 Betta Tank Mates

Rule Number Eight: Know your aquarium 101!

If you’re an experienced aquarium keeper, congrats, those are pretty much all the basics of betta fish! There’s plenty more information out there about details and specifics that I encourage you to go out and research, but I’ve pretty much covered Betta 101!

For more information, check out these YouTube playlists:

Betta Fish Care 101

Better Know a Betta

Betta Fish Information

Your First Betta Tank

For those who have never kept fish before, there’s a lot to it that you need to know, and would make this post way, way too long.

So! If you don’t know what a nitrogen cycle is, or how to acclimate a fish, or how to condition water, here’s a list of Fish 101 playlists YouTube. Be sure to do plenty of research, and good luck on setting up your first aquarium!

Fish Keeping 101

The Fish Keeper’s Guide to Aquariums

Beginner’s Guide to Setting Up an Aquarium

The Ultimate Guide to Your First Aquarium

Bonus: Have fun!

I know this giant post seems intimidating, but setting up and maintaining betta aquariums is some of the most fun I’ve had in a hobby. I find everything about these little fish to be utterly delightful, and if you do, too, I promise you all the time and investment is worth it.

Go forth and have fun, and don’t hesitate to show me pictures of your betta!

___

Like this post? Reblogs are better than likes! I also have a Ko-Fi profile if you’re feeling generous. Thanks so much!

Pet Supplies

If you own animals, you know how expensive pet supplies can be. Even with a pet plan, you may have to pay several thousand dollars per year in veterinarian bills alone. If you have a large farm or even a small apartment, the expenses add up quickly. Staff Writer. Fosters & Readers, Inc. has officially joined the Greater Dover Chamber of Commerce after opening for business in the Tri-City Plaza in Somersworth, New Hampshire. Ownership is limited, but you can be assured of a steady supply of the products that are needed by the business: dog food, fish & marine supplies, and pet food. In addition, the company offers a full service pet grooming and animal health care facility.

Fish. If you love fish, you know how expensive pet supplies can be. The types of fish, the water temperature, the diseases they're prone to and so forth are all things you have to take into consideration. For example, a pond with saltwater fish will cost more than keeping freshwater fish. And if you're looking to keep exotic species of fish such as giant carp or koi, you'll need a lot of special equipment. Reptiles. Reptiles are no different than fish in terms of cost of maintaining them. From basic reptile food to UV sterilization, you'll need a lot of supplies. However, because many reptile pets require high-end tank liners and heaters, you may want to think twice before adopting an exotic pet. Cat and dog supplies. The number of supplies needed for your cat or dog is almost unimaginable. From food and treats to flea treatments and animal shampoo, you'll spend a lot of money on cat and dog supplies. On the other hand, you won't have quite as much to think about for your lizards and snakes. Grooming. As the owner of a guinea pig or tropical fish, you'll need a lot of pet supplies for maintenance and health care. Think of it this way: guinea pigs require daily grooming, while snakes will need an occasional grooming session for a few weeks in the summer. Pet Store Choices. There are plenty of pet supplies retailers out there. Which ones should you choose? Some pet store owners tend to think of their stores as simply places to get pet food. While this is a very important aspect of pet store business, it's far from the only one. You'll also have to think about how well stocked their customer service departments are, what you can find locally and whether they have any special sales. Ann-imsalers vs Ann-Imals Pet Supply Store. Some purists may even say that the best place to buy pet supplies is an Ann-imsalers pet supply store. This is a highly subjective decision. However, for most of us, it's easy to see that the price of bulk pet food from the Ann-imsalers department is less than half that found in the local Pet Store. And if you're buying in bulk, you'll pay a lot less. Pet Store Flea Treatments. If you only need to buy some simple flea treatments, the Pet Store probably has good prices on those products too. But they don't sell any of the big ticket items like reptiles or fish. This isn't a bad thing per se; it just means that you'll probably have to check several different pet supplies stores before you find the right one. Pet Supplies For Fish. Some fish store owners treat their fish like royalty. They provide everything from fish food and supplements to aquariums and fish treats. For other pets, they may treat them more like livestock, but still provide some fish supplies. For example, if you own cats, you probably have a smelly litter box and would like to find a way to kill that cat problem without having to buy a cat litter box and then find a fish tank, or even bothering to try to make your fish look pretty while you do it. Pet Supplies For Dogs. If you own more than one dog, each dog may require a different pet supply. That's why you may need to check at more than one pet store before you find what you need, but once you find it, your dog will thank you for the fish and the treats, and probably go on to tell everyone about his new friends. https://dorothykovacs.over-blog.com/2020/11/about-me.html Pet Supplies For Household Animals. There's a wide selection of supplies for household pets. Dogs and cats can both live in kennels, but you may also want to consider putting a bird cage on your porch so you can see your furry family member. You can also buy houses for your guinea pigs and mice, and there are even products available for training dogs. There's no end to the number of products that are available for animals, but most pets enjoy being stroked, petted and offered company. They really are a pleasure to have around!

What Do Betta Fish Do All Day?

Feed your pet with fish pellets or flakes specially made for betta. Excess food that your betta fish do not eat will fall to the bottom of your basin and deteriorate the water quality if it is not removed. Dr Keller suggests giving a beta fish as much food every day as it eats every 3-5 minutes until it runs out of food.

Easy to Pet To be fair, betas are easier to maintain than many other fish species. In fact, they take up less space than other fish and are much more resilient.

Unlike other fish in the same taxonomic suborder, Betta’s organ chamber allows him to swallow air at the surface so he can survive in water with a lower oxygen content than other species of fish. As a tropical fish, it needs heaters and filters in its tank.

Betta fish are the best filter that filters the entire tank several times per hour without generating too much flow. This is one of the reasons why I recommend a tank of at least five gallons for a single Bota fish. The minimum tank size for beta fish is 10 gallons, which is the absolute minimum.

It is not recommended to keep male betta fish in the same tank as other males. Never put two male betas together and avoid tail pliers, tiger mullets and other eagle-eyed anabantid gourami’s (large predatory fish) and tiny fish when your beta is on its own. Nevertheless, each male Betta has an individual personality, so you can meet one who does not play with the other fish and stays to himself.

Most male betas will coexist with other gentle fish species as long as there is enough space and decoration and they are not fast swimmers. They live in communities with non-aggressive fish such as tiger barbels or fish with which beta can become aggressive, such as outlandish guppies. The females are held in groups with other peaceful community-fish on much place.

Bettas are prone to fin rot and other diseases due to their long fins, and maintaining an undersized fish tank increases their risk of exacerbating or developing these problems. Research from the University of Ghent in Belgium has shown that betas can get stressed when they share a tank with fish they consider rivals because they are locked up and cannot escape to see what they can do with other nearby tanks. Although it is true that Betta fish can be found in small tanks and ridiculous crescent-shaped bowls in pet stores, that does not mean that they are enjoyed by everyone.

(all I’ve learned while researching) Pac Man frog care masterpost

Seriously why has nobody done this.

Disclaimer: I am getting my first frog on January 4/5 2020. This will of course be updated with personal experience but for now just what I’ve found online.

Feel free to add/correct me on anything

The pac man frog: aka cornwells horned frog or Amazon horned frog

(albino variety)

First things first: prepare to spend a lot on pacmans. Like with any animal, they require the proper care and that can get expensive.

Pacmans are pretty hefty bois, with males reaching 4-5 inches and females reaching up to 8, keeping a circular shape. This means a bigger enclosure. Right now I have a ten gallon set up but I am prepared to upgrade if my frog outgrows. Aim for 10+ gallons.  Floor space is most important as pacmans are a borrowing species. They require a minimum of 2 inches of substrate to submerse themselves in. They are an ambush predator, meaning they will sit and wait up to their eyes in substrate for the perfect meal to come wandering along. They can sit like this for days, even weeks at a time, perhaps only moving from one side of the enclosure to the other. Coconut fiber works best as it doesn’t clump, and is easier for them to burrow into.  Just because they are a burrowing species doesn’t mean they don’t need water. All frogs need water. They require a large water dish full of dechlorinated water. Dechlorinaters remove all the harmful chemicals and metals in your tap water and makes it safe for squishy critters like fish, amphibians and reptiles. Pick one up at your local pet store.  Here’s a good one: https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Prime-Fresh-Saltwater-Conditioner/dp/B0002A5WPQ/ref=asc_df_B0002A5WPQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167116240456&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16562266558803356605&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032457&hvtargid=pla-310002621828&psc=1

PLEASE wash out your frogs water dish everyday, because it will also be their bathroom.

Speaking of water, Pac mans require high humidity. To create humidity in your frog buddies enclosure, simply spray it down at least once a day with dechlorinated water. Evaporated water = humidity. They like it between 50-80 percent. Get yourself a hydrometer, like a thermometer for humidity! I got a digital combo hydrometer/thermometer.

Humidity: https://pacmanfrogcare101.com/pacman-frog-humidity/

Heat is not optional. Pacmans are a tropical species. They like temperature in the mid 70′s low 80′s. If the room you’re keeping them in stays consistently in this range, then you shouldn’t need one. But if your room is like mine and is usually cold, get a heat mat. Stick it on the side above the substrate, so the Pacman can burrow to cool off if needed. Don’t put the heat mat next to the water dish, that can create mold, algae, nasty stuff. Don’t put it underneath the tank, especially not without spacers. (Elevates the tank slightly to keep it from resting on the cord) that can dry out the substrate and burn your froggy! An 8 watt mat is good for 10-20 gallons. This was the most expensive single item I got, but it’s very worth it not to freeze my frog. Pacmans also so not like mid-high 80′s. A thermometer and thermostat (to regulate the heat mat) are recommended.

The heat mat I got: https://zoomed.com/reptitherm-under-tank-heater-u-t-h/

Once again put it on the side.

I don’t recommend heat lamps because I’ve read it can dry out the frog/enclose too quickly. Pacmans don’t require much light, so a lamp is not necessary.

Pacmans are not a social species. They will eat anything else in their enclosure, including other pacmans. Don’t risk it. Even if they are the same size, one will try to eat the other and end up choking to death. Other frogs/ lizards will end up as dinner, for the love of god don’t try to set up females together.

Pacman mouths are the width of their head, they will eat anything. Hence the name Pacman frog. Their bits can and will draw blood, so feeding tongs are recommended.

(Everything I got for mine I got at joshs frogs. Highly recommended.)

Pacmans eat live food. A good staple would be crickets (what I’m doing) or Dubuia roaches. I’ve read adults will also eat pinkie mice and feeder fish, but I haven’t looked into it. A staple is what you would feed most regularly. Supplemented can be anything from hornworms to red worms to waxworms. Pretty much any feeder insect. To prevent bone deficiency, dust your bugs with calcium and vitamin supplements. “But trickster”, you say, “that seems unnecessary”. ““Petco says they’re fine without”. NO! Exotic pets, may it be reptiles, amphibians, or aquatic animals don’t get the same vitamins and nutrients in captivity that they do in the wild. It’s up to us to give them the best healthiest life possible.  Also, don’t trust petco/smart. The corporate only care about the sales, not the animals. And the employees are clueless, which can mean serious damage to your pets. Do your own research. calcium: https://www.joshsfrogs.com/rep-cal-ultrafine-calcium-with-vitamin-d3.html

Vitamins:https://www.joshsfrogs.com/herptivite-multivitamin.html

Seriously, you put the feeders in a container with 1:1 with these dusts, shakey shakey and boom, dusted with all the good stuff. 2-3 times a week, more if you get a baby. It’s 12$ for the both of them shell out the cash and give your frog the best life possible.

How to dust: https://youtu.be/hlDzjmyVTWM

1/2 inch (or medium) crickets for babies. Feed them what they will eat, 3 one night, 2 the next? Great. Not hungry for a day? Fine. If your frog is refusing food for multiple days that’s a problem. But 4-5 crickets every other day (for babies) should be fine. Once again, not an expert and feeding will be the first thing I report on when I get my frog.

Full size crickets for adults, feed them 2-3 crickets every other day. I’ve read that should be good.

Hides and plants should be provided. Don’t just throw your new baby I. There with substrate and a water dish. It’s ugly, it’s boring, it’s not stimulating for the frog. Get some hides for the frog! There are so many different types, go wild. Just make sure it’s big enough for the frog or they won’t use it. Get some plastic plants while your at it. Make it a jungle! If you want get some live plants and make a Vivarium! Do more research on these however.  Joshs frogs has care sheets, care videos, and a huge selection of decor, frogs, reptiles and supplies. (I swear it’s not sponsored)

https://www.joshsfrogs.com

Now to the best part: choosing your frog!

(Send me pictures !) Pacmans come in all different morphs and colors, from bright green to brown to bright red. The one pictured is an albino. I’m planning on getting an albino or red type. I’m a sucker for red frogs. They all have identical care requirements. The only thing that’ll change is the price.

Tomato frogs are a very similar frog, that require virtually the same requirements. They, however, can be housed together and their mouths are much smaller.

More sources:

https://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2019/01/pac-man-frog-care-sheet-includes-fantasy-frogs-c-cranwelli-and-c-ornata/

https://pacmanfroginfo.weebly.com/facts.html

  Getting really tired of seeing people mistreat animals. Do research on an animal before getting it and if you no longer want it or can’t care for it then surrender it to a rescue shelter or a pound- DO NOT JUST RELEASE IT OUTSIDE!! Most pets are exotics, meaning their species are NOT native to where you are. Releasing an animal into the wild is also ILLEGAL and if it survives it becomes an invasive species and fucks up the local ecosystem more than you’d think- HOWEVER more often than not the animal dies within 1-2 days of being released because A.) it has been raised in captivity and lacks the necessary survival skills a wild born and raised animal would have B.) with the animal being an exotic and captivity raised it will either not have access to a proper food source or be able to get to it C.) unlike in captivity, outdoors has PREDATORS 

  Also, in many cases like with rabbits/bunnies, they are actually GENETICALLY different from their wild counterparts because of domestication and selective breeding and that can, and has, lead to them dying a horrible death after being abandoned outside.

  If you are anti-domestication then just don’t own a pet, do not get animals from pet stores or other domesticated settings just to abandon the animal outside. They will die because of you.

  If you aren’t abandoning your animals outside, make sure your pets actually have what they need- SURVIVING IS NOT THRIVING and many pet stores will sell things that aren’t actually good for your pet. Bettas- for example- need at least 2.5-5 GALLONS per betta and they also need a heater to keep their water 70-80 F because they are tropical fish, plastic tubing for hamster cages actually harm the hamster in various ways, most wheels for pets also cause spinal problems because they are too small and narrow. The list goes on and on so do EXTENSIVE research on ways to care for a pet properly and use more than one source as one source could actually turn out to be wrong.

June 21st is Betta Fish Awareness Day!!

Hey everybody! Betta Fish Awareness Day is coming up and I wanted to clear up some common misconceptions about keeping and caring for bettas. I happen to work at a very popular PET COmpany and see a lot of misinformation being spread about these babies. As a loving betta fish owner I want to make sure that all the bettas are well cared for.

Here are a few basic guidelines for keeping bettas:

1. Temperature: Bettas are a tropical fish species and need warmer water to survive. The ideal temperature range is between 72 and 82 degrees farenheit (22-27 degrees celsius). The best way to ensure your tank is warm enough for your angry baby is to install a heater in their tank and monitor the temperature with a thermometer.

2. Tank size: We often see bettas in kept very small spaces; in mason jars on pinterest, small bowls on tv shows, and sold in small cups from pet stores. These are not healthy environments for your betta! They should ideally be kept in a minimum of 5 gallons of water. Having a larger tank reduces stress on the animal and allows them to not only survive, but THRIVE and live happily. 

3. Filtration: All fish tanks should have a functioning water filter. It helps remove waste products and keeps the tank clean. It also keeps the water moving in the tank, which circulates oxygen, disperses heat, and keeps your fish happy. Bettas are no exception to this. 

4. Keeping multiple bettas: Bettas should NEVER share a tank! This includes the “dual betta fish tanks” that are sold at many pet stores. Even if the bettas are physically separate from each other, the presence of another betta intruding on their territory will cause unnecessary stress on your fish. The only exception to this rule is female bettas. Females can be kept together in a “sorority” only if you have a large tank, 20 gallons or bigger is recommended. 

While you cannot have bettas together, you CAN keep bettas in a tank with other species. Some very common betta tank mates are freshwater shrimp, snails, neon tetras, and small bottom feeders like cory catfish. Just avoid any species that look similar to bettas. No long tails or flashy colors.

5. Feeding: Bettas should be fed once per day. Most commonly they are fed small pellets specially formulated for the species. You should give them 3-5 pellets at a time. Bettas also enjoy eating freeze-dried blood worms, they can eat 1 or 2 of these per day. It is important not to overfeed them, because it can cause problems with their swim bladder and make it difficult for them to swim around. If you see your betta struggling to stay buoyant, you may be feeding it too much.

6. Decoration: Bettas love decorations! They like to be able to hide when they are stressed or when they feel threatened. It’s important to decorate your tank to make your betta feel safe. Live aquatic plants are a great way to provide cover for your babies and also remove carbon from the water and replace it with oxygen. Also they just look pretty! Decorate however you want, go crazy, be creative! Your betta will love it!

It’s important to note that these are just a few of the guidelines to keeping bettas. There are so many other important things to keep in mind when caring for these colorful friends, but these are the questions I am asked most commonly when I’m working. I hope this post helps, and please feel free to add more tips for betta care down below!

Species Spotlight #2: Betta aka Siamese/Chinese Fighting Fish

The fish with many names, I’ve heard them called Japanese or Chinese or Siamese Fighting Fish, but they are generally known as Betta, which is from their scientific name ‘Betta splendens’.

(Elephant Ear Betta, male)

So you’re considering a betta?

(Male veil tail betta, female betta)

Betta tie with goldfish for being some of the most abused, misunderstood fish on the market. If you have a betta fish and reading this alarms you please don’t be too upset, in all likelihood you were given bad information or no information when you acquired one. I’m not here to pass judgment on you, but I am here to help you set things up so your fish leads a long and happy life!

The betta is an egglaying variety of fish but interestingly enough they do so with bubble nests. The male attempts to attract a female by blowing bubbles in a tight formation, usually in the corner of the tank. If your betta starts doing this it means he feels comfortable an safe!

They are from the gourami family of which there are over 133 recognized species!

Tank Size

It’s not uncommon to see a betta fish in a small tank or even vases and there are a huge variety of ‘tanks’ being sold that specifically claim to be for bettas. Betta should never, ever, ever, be housed in less than 2.5 gallons and even then I frown on something of that size, but it’s way more preferable to anything smaller. 3+ gallons are far better. Many of the ‘tanks’ that claim to be for betta are even less than 1 gallon! That’s the equivalent of your house being the size of a small closet. Sure you could live in that but it won't be pleasant at all.

Not only are they too small but many of them lack filtration or heaters and don’t even have the room for either! Betta require tropical temperatures, so between 75°-80° degrees Fahrenheit (23°-26° Celsius), like any fish they also require a filter (which also brings oxygen into the water).

There are good quality 3-5 gallon tanks that you can get and set up easily enough. I keep my betta in a 7.5 gallon planted tank. You can even just buy all the different parts you need to set up your own beautiful tank as 5-gallon basic tanks aren’t very expensive at all!

Some stores also sell ‘betta plants’ that they claim the fish will nibble on the roots for nutrition. Sure. A starving fish will nibble on anything to survive but they are primarily carnivorous. Not only are the plants starving the poor fish they also take up a lot of the surface area of the water, or even block it off completely! Betta are labyrinth fish meaning they can gulp air to get extra oxygen so it’s important that they have access to the surface of their water. Add to that that a tank filter isn’t just to clean the water of waste, but also to aerate the water to bring in more oxygen for your fish.

Types of betta:

Betta are being bred not only by hobbyists but professionals and over the years a bigger and bigger variety of them have become available. When I was just a kid, over 20 years ago, there were no varieties listed they’d just be ‘betta fish’.

Vieltail

The most basic variety are the ones I saw as a kid, they’re known as veil tails. This variety is so common that they aren’t even allowed to compete in betta shows (like dog shows but for betta fish!). Just because they are common doesn’t mean you shouldn’t get one! They’re still very beautiful and come in a variety of colors. They are called veiltail because their tail resembles a draping vail.

Combtail

Combtail betta can have any shaped tail or fins, but they also have extra extensions almost like fingers.

Crowntail

Crowntails are like the combtail on steroids. At least half their tail is made up with the trailing fingers, rather than just a short bit on the end.

Delta/Super Delta

These guys are rather stunning as their tails are symmetrical (if an ideal example) with the same amount of tail above and below and spread out evenly with no draping or drooping.

Double Tail

As it says on the tin. They don’t have a split tail but rather literally two tails! The two tails can be in different sizes.

Half-moon/Over- half-moon

These fellows have tails even bigger than the delta/super delta mentioned above, about 180 degrees and some even over that. That severe of a tail can lead to them being more easily damaged, try to avoid anything sharp or rough in their tank.

Halfsun

Sort of a mix between a combtail and a half-moon tailed variety with a dash of delta. They have full flowing tails with a bit of a fringe at the edge.

Plakat

For this variety, their tails are much shorter, but still fanned out and beautiful. Due to their short tails, they’re much less likely to be damaged.

Rosetail/Feathertail

These lovely boys are tails that are so full they look feathery!

Roundtail

Their tail is even fuller and round than the plakat a bit like a D shape.

Spadetail

Where the roundtail has a nicely rounded tail the tip of the spadetail’s fin comes to a little point!

Elephant Ear

With these, it’s less about the shape of the tail and rather the shape of the fins. They’re very big! The featured image of this post is of one!

Those are just the tail shapes, as to their color patterns? Here is a quick list of color types:

Butterfly, koi, Cambodian, marble, dragon (avoid this variety as they often get scales growing over their eyes), mask, multi-colored, piebald (like marbled but different!), solid, wild type (less vivid colors, closer to how they appear in the wild).

The colors they come in are across the spectrum, including albino. Finding the color, pattern and tail combo you like may be a challenge, but betta fish are easy to find and easy to take care of.

Recently a new variety has come to market known as ‘kings’ this just signifies them as being a super-sized betta! I have a half-moon wild type betta and he is easily twice the size of regular betta.

Good Tankmates

If you have a smaller tank, like a 3-5 gallon I suggest keeping your betta solo as they are very territorial! They can be housed with snails though, but make sure to introduce the betta to the tank first or he may kill anything that was in the tank before him to establish his territory.

Betta have wildly different personalities, one person will have a peaceful community friendly betta and another will have a ‘Kill all trespassers!’ variety. It needs to be stated that males and females don’t really get along very well. I also don’t suggest breeding them as they are already heavily bred professionally and by hobbyists. Only try breeding if you are very very serious about it and have the room for them.

I have successfully kept my king betta with other fish in a large tank that gives both him and the tankmates to move around in. As long as they have a buffer a betta shooould be willing to play nice. Be warned though, this may not be the same for you. I would also suggest avoiding putting them in a tank with another fish that has a big flowing tail.

Betta also move up and down the tank meaning, no territory is really safe from an aggressive betta. Cory catfish may work in a large tank, tetra may be quick enough to avoid an aggressive betta but keep a close eye on them to make sure he isn’t overly stressing them out. It’s a lot of trial and error.

Feeding

There are a lot of different foods you can feed to your betta but make sure to get food specially formulated for them. Also, try to mix up the variety of food you give them. Frozen small foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, krill and the like make good treats but not as a regular part of their diet.

Make sure to only give them a few pellets at a time, as their stomach is only about as big as their eyeball and they can be very greedy eaters and you can overfeed them! Yes, betta can get fat!

Tank Temperature

75°-80° degrees Fahrenheit (23°-26° Celsius)

Final Words

Betta are some of the best beginner fish as long as they’re given a good home. They’re full of personality, they live 3-5 years, are very hardy and easy to care for. They’re personally one of my favorite fish and I never tire of them!

If you want to find a rarer type of betta ask around online, speak to local aquarium clubs and you’ll definitely find a breeder who can help you out.

Planning for Florida Keys aquarium design

Aquariums are a fun addition to any home, business, or event. They create a relaxing atmosphere that is often missing, especially in a busy office. It's beautiful to watch the fish swim around and take in their surroundings. Aquariums are also a good way to learn, especially if they are in places where children go. It can be hard to figure out how everything in an aquarium, including the fish, fits together and works. But really, it's not hard!

It takes a lot of planning to make a Florida Keys aquarium design. If something is wrong, the whole aquarium system could be in danger. For an aquarium to thrive, everything must be just right, from the size to the fish. Before you start, you should think about whether you want a saltwater or freshwater aquarium. This is because a saltwater aquarium and a freshwater aquarium need different things. Some fish can't live in either fresh or saltwater. If you've never kept fish before, we'd suggest starting with a tropical freshwater aquarium.

 How to Use Florida Keys Aquarium Designs

●     The fish are the most important thing to think about when talking of Florida Keys aquarium design. Some fish can't live with each other, and some species of fish can't live with other fish of the same species. Every fish has different needs. For instance, tropical fish need a heater to keep the water at a certain temperature. If you want to make an ecosystem, you also need to think about how oxygen flows. Live plants give off oxygen, but they can be hard for newbies to take care of. You could also put an air pump and air stone in your tank to bubble air into it. Some filters also add air to the water through a feature called "air."

●     Location is another important thing to think about. Should it be looked at from all sides? Should it be in a small or large wall? Does it need a stand, or does it stand on its own? When putting a tank somewhere, there are a lot of things to think about. Of course, the background waterscape will also need to be chosen. Lights could also be a great addition to a fish tank, but it's important to plan out where and what kind of light to use.

●     It's also important to decorate the aquarium. The fish will want to be comfortable. This means that you should decorate with things from their natural environment. Some fish like to play under and near rocks, while others like to be alone or in sand or gravel. You can choose the decorations, but what you choose depends a lot on what fish you want.

The bigger your Florida Keys aquarium design needs to be, the more fish you can put in it. Fish need their own space, just like people do.

The Fascinating Panda Oranda Fish - All You Need to Know

The Panda Oranda, with its gorgeous coloration and graceful swimming movements, is an undeniably beautiful fish. Even though they are relatively new to the aquarium hobby, the Panda Oranda has quickly become one of the most popular fish available on the market today. But what exactly makes them so special? In this article, we’ll take a look at the history of this particular species, their stunning appearance, and any common diseases or ailments that may affect them in captivity.

Where Do Panda Orandas Come From?

Panda orandas come from Guangdong, China. This is because they originally were only found in a single lake and so it became their namesake. And now you might be thinking: Okay, but what does a panda oranda look like? Well, that’s what we’re going to discuss next. So stay tuned!

What Does a Panda Oranda Look Like?

One of your first questions might be what does a panda oranda look like? They are just one of many different types of orandas. If you have seen an oranda before, you know that they tend to have black spots, which can get bigger with breeding. The panda variety has these spots but are all black. Panda orandas are named for their large jaws, which resemble that of a panda bear’s mouth. 

How Big Do They Get?

Unlike most fish, panda orandas can grow larger in a home aquarium than they do in their natural habitat. In fact, some have been known to grow up to 13 inches long in captivity, while their maximum size in the wild is only about 11 inches. In both cases, however, females tend to be larger than males. Another interesting note: The largest recorded weight for a panda oranda was over 20 pounds—but again, these giants are rare even among captive-bred specimens. To keep your orandas at a manageable size without underfeeding them (which could lead to sickness), feed them a diet that contains pellet food and high-quality frozen foods that mirror what they eat in nature.

How Long Can They Live?

Panda orandas have been known to live up to 30 years, but around 10 years is more common. Panda orandas are hardy fish that can survive a wide range of temperatures and a variety of other environmental conditions, making them less sensitive than some other tropical fish. For best results, however, keep panda orandas in a temperature between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The pH level should be around 7.0 for optimal growth. Letting ammonia levels get too high (over .25 ppm) will result in illness and death in panda orandas; make sure you monitor your ammonia levels frequently when keeping them in an aquarium.

Where Should I Put My Panda Oranda?

There’s a lot of debate about where you should put your Panda oranda if you have one, but most experts agree that it would be best to keep him in there if you have a bigger tank. If you don’t have enough room for your panda oranda, then they can live happily in tanks as small as 30 gallons. However, once they start getting bigger, these fish will need even more space. While any heater will suffice to keep them at an appropriate temperature and ensure they won’t get too cold or too hot, many aquarists recommend purchasing an aquarium thermometer instead of relying on a thermostat and hoping for the best.

Determination of Heavy Metals in Water, Fish and Sediment from Ureje Water Reservoir- Juniper Publishers

Abstract

The concentrations of Iron (Fe), Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Chromium (Cr) and Manganese (Mn) in water, sediment and selected fish samples from Ureje water reservoir, Ado Ekiti, were determined using Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometer (AAS). A total of three samples each of water, sediment, fishes (Hemichromis fasciatus & Hepsetus odoe) were collected and analyzed for heavy metals. Data obtained were subjected to analysis of variance (ANOVA) test at 0.05%. The results showed higher levels of Zn (13.08±0.45mg/g) and Fe (2.10±0.56mg/g) in fish in comparison with other heavy metals examined. Chromium has exceeded the toxicity threshold in the muscle of the fishes in line with WHO standards in food. Cadmium was not detected in soil, while other elements detected were in trace amount below the Environmental Protection Agency allowable limits in soil. In water, except for Fe (1.25±0.02)mg/l, other metals were below allowable limit in water with reference to the World Health Organization's recommendation. This finding indicates that the water is safe for both aquatic life and man.

Introduction

Aquatic ecosystem is the ultimate recipient of almost everything including heavy metals. This has long been recognized as a serious pollution problem [1]. There are various sources of heavy metals in this ecosystem such as anthropogenic activities like draining of sewage, dumping of domestic wastes and recreational activities. It may also occur in small amounts naturally through the leaching of rocks, airborne dust, forest fires and vegetation [2].

Fish is considered as one of the most significant indicators of metal pollution in aquatic environment [3]. Fish may absorb dissolved elements and heavy metals from surrounding water and food. When fish are exposed to heavy metals in an aquatic ecosystem, they tend to take these metals up which may accumulate in various tissues in significant amounts and are eliciting toxicological effects at critical targets [4]. Some edible species of fish have been widely investigated for those hazardous effects of heavy metals on human health [5].

Sediments are important sinks for heavy metals in aquatic ecosystem. These metals are non-biodegradable and once discharged into water bodies, they can either be adsorbed on sediment particles or accumulated in aquatic organisms. Heavy metal pollution may increase the susceptibility of aquatic animals to various diseases by interfering with the normal functioning of their immune, reproductive and developmental processes [6].

Heavy metals could be found in water at the trace levels. Nonetheless, these constituents are very toxic and tend to accumulate in a long period of time. Heavy metals such as Pb, Cd and Cr are micro-pollutants and of special interest as they have both health and environmental significance due to their persistence, high toxic and bio-accumulation characteristics in water [7]. Heavy metals in human body can affect his health, hence the need to know the concentration of heavy metals in water, sediment and selected fishes in ureje reservoir because of its daily usage by man and proximity to urban pollution (Figure 1).

Materials and Methods

Study area

Ureje reservoir is one of the major Dams in Ekiti State. It is located in Ado Ekiti, the State capital. The reservoir overflows across Ado Ekiti /Ikere road, also cut across the southwest region of the State. The reservoir is strategic to the people of Ekiti State especially the residents of Ado Ekiti. It is the major source of pipe borne water and irrigation.

Collection of fish, water and sediment samples

Two different species of fish namely: Hemichromis fasciatus & Hepsetus odoe that are commonly seen in the reservoir were collected at two different locations along the stretch of the dam. The fish samples were put into a pre-cleaned polythene bag and placed inside oven for drying in readiness for digestion process. The water sample collected at two different points were also placed in pre-cleaned container and preserved by adding 5ml of nitric acid (HNO3) to it thus, preventing microbial growth in the water sample. The sediment samples were collected from two different point and stored in a pre-cleaned polythene bag and later spread on a flat tray inside the laboratory to be air dried for three days at room temperature (25 °C) after which it was been grinded and sieved for further digestion process.

Digestion of fish samples

The fish samples were wash with distilled water and dried for 24 hours to constant weight in an oven at 105-- °C. After drying the fish sample in the oven, the bones and scales of the dried fish samples were removed and remaining only the muscle, head, tail, eyes, gills of the fish sample. The remaining parts of the fish sample were milled with a mortar and pestle. They were put in a dry labeled crucible and stored until digestion. This involves digesting 2g of the grounded samples with 5ml of HNO3 and 2ml of HCLO4 and was heated on a hot plate for 30minutes at 85 °C. After completing the digestion, the residue were allowed to cool and filtered into a 50ml volumetric flask. Distilled water was added to it to fill up to the mark. The filtrate was transferred into a pre-cleaned sample bottle and stored under cool temperature until it is taken for further Atomic Adsorption Spectrophotometer (AAS) analysis.

Digestion of water samples

100 ml of the water sample was measured with a measuring cylinder and 5ml of concentrated hydrochloric acid was added to it. The solution was then transferred into a conical flask and heated on the hot plate for two hour at 105 °C to 25 ml. It was then transferred into 100ml volumetric flask and distill water was added to fill up to the mark where it was filtered and transferred into the pre-cleaned sample bottle and taken for further Atomic Adsorption Spectrophotometer (AAS) analysis.

Digestion of sediment samples

After air drying the Sediment samples for 3days and ground into smaller particles, it was sieved and went through digestion process: 2g of the sediment sample was weighed and poured into a beaker, 5ml of hydrogen trioxonitrate (v) acid (HNO3) was added together with 2ml of perchloric acid (HClO4) and 5ml of hydrogen fluoride (HF) was added and heated for 1hour on a heater at 160 °C. After proper digestion the sample was allowed to cool down and it was filtered. The filtrate was transferred into 100ml volumetric flask and made up to mark with distilled water. The prepared sample solution was transferred into the pre-cleaned labeled sample bottles in readiness for Atomic Adsorption Spectrophotometer (AAS) analysis.

Metal determination procedure using AAS

A black model 200A flame Atomic Absorption Spectrometer was used in the metal analysis of the sample (Perkin Elmer 2000). The major underlined principle of AAS is that the ground state atoms are capable of absorbing radiant energy of their own specific resonance wavelength when passed through a solution containing the atoms in question, then part of the light will be absorbed. The extent of absorption is proportional to the number of ground state atoms present in the flame.

Result and Discussion

Concentration of heavy metals in fish parts: Hemichromis fasciatus

Concentration of heavy metals in different parts of Hemichromis fasciatus adult fish from Ureje dam is shown in Table1 below. Concentrations of Iron (Fe), Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Chromium (Cr) and Manganese (Mn) in the Muscle, head, eye, tail and gills of the fish samples were determined. Although there was no significant difference in metal concentration in each part of the  fish for each metal but the results showed higher levels of Zn (13.08±0.45mg/g) and Fe (2.10±0.56) in comparison with other heavy metals examined. Cadmium and Copper were not detected in some parts of the fish, indicating their low concentrations in the fish. Several studies have indicated that metal accumulation in fish depends on numerous factors such as food habits of the fish [8], tropic status, source of a particular metal, distance of the fish from the contamination source and the presence of other ions in the environment [9]. Also, Kalay & Canli [10] reported that metal accumulation in the tissues of fish varied according to the rates of uptake, storage and elimination. The high levels of iron and zinc in this study could be attributed to their high demand as essential elements in blood hemoglobin and as a dietary essential trace metals [11]. Chromium has exceeded the toxicity threshold in the muscle of the fish in line with W.H.O standards in food.

ND: Not Detected.

Concentration of heavy metals in fish parts: Hepsetus odoe

ND: Not Detected.

The results in Table 2 below show that the metal concentrations in fish organs of Hepsetus odoe followed the same pattern with Hemichromis fasciatus except that Cd, Cu and Pb were partially detected in the fish. Also, Fe (3.09±1.09) and Cr (0.15±0.03) were at the toxicity threshold in the muscle of the fish in line with W.H.O standards in food. This may be attributed to the abundance of these metals in the ecosystem and the tropic status of the fish (EPA, 2010). A remarkable relationship between heavy metals concentrations in water and fish were observed by [12].

Concentration of heavy metals in sediment samples

ND: Not Detected.

Table 3 below shows the total extractable concentration of heavy metals from sediments in the study area. Cadmium was not detected in the two locations, while Cr, Pb and Fe were significantly (p>0.05) higher in location A than location B. The results obtained showed that the sediment samples were lower in heavy metals concentration in line with reference values for USEPA [6].

Heavy metal concentrations in water sample

Heavy Metal concentrations in water samples from Ureje dam is presented in Table 4. Lead (Pb) was not detected in both stations. Zinc was in trace levels (0.02-0.06). Except for Fe, the heavy metal load in water was far below toxicity threshold level in comparison with W.H.O allowable limits in water [7].

ND: Not Detected.

Conclusion and Recommendation

This study examined the concentrations of Iron (Fe), Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Chromium (Cr) and Manganese (Mn) in the Muscle, head, eye, tail and gills of the fish samples from Ureje Dam and compared the results with the World Health Organization (WHO) allowable limits in food. Also, the same elements were determined in water and sediment in line with US EPA, 2010. The observed differences in metal concentrations in the two species of fish examined indicated difference in metal uptake as reported by [13]. Metal uptake and accumulation has a direct link with the feeding habit of fish and where fish resides in water [14]. The reason for higher metal uptake in Hepsetus odoe compared to Hemichromis faciatus is that Hepsetus odoe is carnivorous and benthic while Hemichromis faciatus is an herbivore and pelagic. It was generally observed that Zn and Fe were more concentrated in the head and muscle than other parts of the fish, although there was a lack of general pattern of uptake and elimination which is species dependent as reported by Tuzen [8].

The concentration of heavy metals in water and sediments in the present study showed trace amount of heavy metals, mainly from anthropogenic input from the city of Ado Ekiti. The level of metal accumulation in fish, water and sediment in the study area has not constitutes health hazards to aquatic life or man. But it is necessary to monitor the usage of the dam by appropriate agencies by adhering strictly to the rules guiding its safety. Government must ensure safe disposal of agricultural, domestic sewage and industrial effluents and recycled where possible to avoid these metals and other contaminants from going into the dam. It is hereby recommended that, location of automobile workshops, dumping of domestic sewage and other activities that are inimical to the safe use of the dam should be discouraged, while regular assessment of the dam to see to its cleanness and proper maintenance should be encouraged.

To Know More About Journal of Oceanography Please Click on: https://juniperpublishers.com/ofoaj/index.php

New Aquarium Checklist

Today I’m going to be explaining the things you need and why you need them when you want to get into the hobby! This is a very long post so get ready for lots of words!

Money

Before you do anything, the first thing you need to make sure you have enough of is money. You can get an aquarium fully set up for as little or as much money as you are willing to spend, but that doesn’t mean your set up will be successful or more importantly, good for the fish. Spending money on the right supplies will save you from spending the money on something cheap that will stop working and cost you, even more, having to replace it or ideally, update with something less likely to fail you.

Expect to pay at least 100$ for a small aquarium, after buying all you need to set things up and stock the tank. If that’s too rich for your blood, I’d suggest a nano tank and a marimo ball. Betta fish should never be in nano tanks. The smallest you should keep them in is 2.5 gallons, 5 is vastly better.

A Place for the Aquarium to Live

For nano aquariums, it should be easy enough to locate a spot to place them and they’re light enough that you don’t have to worry about them destroying whatever you’ve placed it on.

However the larger the aquarium, the harder to find a spot for it and the harder it is to find something that can support its weight. A 20-gallon tank (which is considered small in the hobby) can weigh up to and over 200 pounds once you add in the water, substrate, fish, and decorations. Things only get heavier from here on out.

Once you hit 10 gallons I suggest getting specially made aquarium stands, which can cost you as much as the tank! You can sometimes get them as a packaged deal for a great price. I suggest checking Facebook, Craigslist, Letgo and other kinds of services for used aquarium stands, often, people are trying to sell the tank along with it too, be wary of used aquariums though as you can’t know what has been put in them. The risk of dangerous chemicals being used on them isn’t worth the money saved on getting a used one unless you trust the previous owner.

Do NOT just assume whatever surface you are putting a 10+ gallon aquarium on will support its weight. Trying to clean up the mess of a broken aquarium is an absolute nightmare. Not just for all the debris but chances are your fish won't survive the experience, even if you’re standing there when it happens.

Time

Aquariums aren’t something you can just set and forget, even if you’re doing a nano aquarium that just has a marimo ball, it will still require your time. Aquariums usually require weekly water changes (about 25%+ of the water), monthly filter maintenance, daily feeding, gravel vacuuming, etc. When you’ve got the aquarium set up it’s really not that much work, but you can’t just neglect it, or your fish will die.

Also, take into consideration the lifespan of the fish. Some fish can live for years... even decades. Make certain you’re on board with this before getting a longer-lived species, if you want to see how you take to the hobby start with a shorter-lived species, such as livebearers (Guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies).

Aquarium

This one seems obvious, no aquarium, not fish! But it’s not as easy as you might think. There are 3 kinds of materials used for aquariums, plastic, glass, and acrylic, each with their benefits and drawbacks (or in the case of plastic, mostly negatives). For those new to the aquarium hobby, I suggest glass aquariums. Acrylic is both very expensive and not as easy to come by (the big box stores rarely have these at all). I’ll go into more detail in another post about the choices and which is best depending on your commitment and desires.

Filter

No filter? No aquarium. You can not do a setup without a filter, even in my plant only tank I still have a nano filter. The only thing you can get away with not having a filter is a marimo nano tank, even then you need to agitate the water often to move the moss ball around.

Filters are tied at the top for one of the most important things you need to keep livestock. It isn’t something you should cut corners on and it’s always better to over filter than under filter (with consideration to water flow... you don’t want to put a fast-moving current in a small betta tank).

There are a variety of filters you can use, sponge, internal, canister, HOB (hang on the back), etc. Each one has its uses depending on your set up. Do your research into the kind of filter you’ll need based on the size of your aquarium, as that’s the most important thing to consider. I’ll be writing an in-depth post about the different kinds of filters and the setups they work for.

Heater

Growing up I never once heard about an aquarium heater but they are a vital part of keeping your fish healthy and happy. Freshwater fish are almost exclusively tropical and require water that is warmer than the typical house’s ambient temperature. Depending on the area you live in and the seasons the fluctuation in water temperature can straight up kill fish. Even here in Phoenix, Arizona the change in daytime temp to nighttime temp can be drastic, especially if the tank is near a window. This is non-negotiable, if you have livestock in your tank, you have to have a heater.

Substrate

While you can have a bare-floor tank (quarantine tanks usually work best with bare tanks) there are a variety of reasons why you should have substrate. The biggest one is they are great at housing beneficial bacteria! If you do a bare-floor aquarium and do a big water change and change the filter at the same time you’ve basically just killed all your beneficial bacteria. Why do you need bacteria? It helps break down bad chemicals, without them, your ammonia levels will spike and kill your fish. You’ll notice that’s a common theme of this list, when we bring dogs and cats into our home our environment is already tailored to their basic needs, but with fish, you need to create an entire ecosystem for them to live in.

There are different kinds of substrates, sand, gravel of different sizes and substrate designed specifically for plants. If you want to do a live plant aquarium you’ll need to spring for a lot pricer special substrate, but it’ll help keep your plants happy and healthy. This kind of substrate is also great for shrimp! I’ll make a substrate post to explain the different kinds and the benefits of them!

Live Bacteria/Starter Bacteria

When you first set up a tank you need to cycle it. Dumping water in a tank, even if you have everything else set up fine, even if you dechlorinate water... without beneficial bacteria your tank isn’t ready for fish yet. Some (not good sources) say you only need to cycle for ‘24 hours’ this is a complete NO. You should cycle for at least a week, and to do that you’ll be adding a liquid starter bacteria to your tank daily (smaller tanks it’s usually just one cap of the stuff). You’ll also want to get a large bottle of it (Unless you have a nano tank) as you’ll be using it even after your tank is cycled and set up. 

Water Test Kit

This one is ‘technically’ optional. Many places will offer free water checks (Petco and Petsmart offer them for free, local aquarium specialty stores will usually do the first one free then a small fee for each subsequent test). You could just take advantage of these free water checks but I suggest if you’re really interested in taking the best care of your fish you should get a water test kit and test the water regularly. You can also get test strips! They are not as accurate as the test kits are so shouldn’t be the only thing you are relying on. In my experience, Petsmart uses the test strips and local stores use the kits, the local stores can also give you better advice for what the water test results mean and how to adjust your parameters.

Decorations

Another ‘technically optional’. While you could keep a tank naked save for the bare essentials (filter, heater, tank, hood, and light)... that... isn’t what I would call an ideal set up. Decorations not only are visually appealing to use they are important to your fish as well! Many fish are shy and prefer to have hiding spots, they can grow bored without an environment to navigate. Territorial fish need something to demarcate their territory or they’ll become very stressed and aggressive.

Fish don’t really care about what color the decorations are or if they’re plastic, so don’t feel the pressure to get the really pricey decorations. While live plants have a lot of benefits they require their own focus and parameters and can get really complicated. Just make sure your decorations are fish safe. Never add wood to your tank without boiling and soaking it, fresh wood is never something you should put in your tank, even wood sold specifically for aquariums needs to be soaked to leech the tannins out. Tannins will turn your water brown/amber and make it murky which can work for a brackish aquarium but will likely not be appealing to a freshwater set up. Wood can also change the PH of your water. Like I said, plastic decorations don’t require any extra work other than a quick rinse off before adding them to the tank (never use soaps!), the natural materials take extra effort and thought.

Fish

This is so far down the list because you need to focus so much on everything above long before you get the fish. The most important thing to consider is the fish you want. A lot of fish sold at pets stores can grow to truly monstrous sizes (I have seen juvenile Silver Arowana sold at Petsmart! They grow to 3 feet long, sometimes more!) so you can’t just walk into the store and buy whatever strikes your fancy. The majority of the fish for sale are juveniles and the true sizes of them are rarely accurately listed, (the Silver Arowana sign at Petsmart claimed they only got 12 inches long) if they’re listed at all.

First consider the size of the tank you’re comfortable buying, as stated above getting a small setup (10-20 gallon tank) you’re looking at about 100$, if not more just for the base setup (My 20-gallon setup cost about 200$ because I use live plants and natural materials, it could have been half as much if I had taken it in another direction). Once you’ve picked out a tank size only then can you consider the kinds of fish you can put in it. The smaller the tank, the fewer the fish you can add to it and the smaller the fish must be. So turn your eyes away from the bigger fish unless you’re willing to invest in a tank that will fit them at their adult sizes. It’s about 1 inch of fish per gallon, and any other livestock you add count as well. Shrimp would be about .5 gallon per shrimp (as they have a lower load), snails also could towards the bio-load of the tank which is why getting an infestation can be dangerous for your tank.

Fish Food

Another obvious one but this is more complicated than you think! There is a lot of cheap and poorly made fish food available on the market. I don’t suggest ever buying it from the grocery store unless its an emergency and you plan on replacing it with something better very very soon. Different fish have different requirements, some are strictly carnivores, others omnivores, some herbivores. Feeding them the wrong thing can lead to starvation, malnutrition, constipation and general failure to thrive.

Always read the ingredient list, some foods contain copper sulfate which is a very dangerous chemical to any invertebrates (snails/shrimp). I once lost a beloved rabbit snail because I failed to read the full ingredient list of the algae wafers I got for the tank. It can also be toxic to fish in high doses. I’d suggest just avoiding any foods that list copper sulfate at all to be on the safe side.

Hood/Lid

You can go without a hood or a lid... however, there are very good reasons to make sure you have a good tank cover. Water evaporates and you’ll have to add water between water changes, which is tedious and can mess with the parameters of your water. Higher on the list of importance is the fact that some fish are jumpers. They will leap right out of the water! Betta fish are well known for this, the Silver Arowana I mentioned above is so notorious for this that even very experienced keepers have lost full grown ones to a hard leap, even with a secured lid.

If you have pets (cats especially) you may end up finding them pawing at the water, falling in or just trying to catch the fish. I say: better safe than sorry!

If you’re willing to keep on top of the water levels, have no pets that can get into the tank, a rimless acrylic tank without a lid does look amazing.

Lights

This is another one that can be as complicated or easy as you want it to be. If you have a very well lit area for the tank you could potentially get away without a dedicated light. You could even just have a hanging pendant light that is bright enough to illuminate the tank and that’s fine!

It gets more complicated if you want to do a planted tank, as I said in decorations, live plants require extra work and this is one of those things that will add to their time and cost. Live plants require a specific spectrum to grow properly. Some can survive with basic lights but if you want to really get a planted tank going you need to get full spectrum lights and full spectrum LED lights can be very expensive (for my 20 gallons I was looking at 60+ dollars).

LED lights take less energy to run, which is great in the long run and they last a very long time. Fluorescent bulbs are cheaper and readily available (hardware stores may even have the size you need!) but will need to be changed more often and it’s vital that you don’t let any of the moisture hits them.

And that’s all the things you need to consider when buying an aquarium and setting it up! There are other things you’ll need but aren’t as vital as what’s listed above. A small tank you could just use a soft toothbrush to clean algae off and you could just siphon the water out with a cup for water changes. Bigger tanks though will require gravel vacs and dedicated algae scrubbers (you could use a soft sponge like the ones sold at the grocery store but don’t use the scrubbing side!).

Here is a link to a PDF you can print out to check off what you have and still need!

Choosing Your Fish

Before you take any steps toward setting up a new aquarium – before you even purchase an aquarium – you need to consider the type of fish you’d like to keep! In most cases, fish type is central in determining other factors, such as the type of food they will eat, what type of aquarium they will need, and whether or not they will need an aquarium heater.

Goldfish

Goldfish are an extremely popular choice for beginners in the fish keeping hobby due to their hardy nature. In fact, they are able to live for ten years or longer with the proper care! Because goldfish grow quickly and produce a lot of waste, 13-35 L of water in an aquarium is recommended for one goldfish, and about 45 L – 75 L for two. Do keep in mind that it is best not to keep goldfish in constant tropical conditions, despite their wide tolerance for varying water temperatures, so you will need to consider this if your intent is to keep a community tank with tropical fish.

Tropical Fish

A few of the most common species of tropical fish include Tetras, Bettas, and Guppies, which require a heater to keep aquarium water at the appropriate temperature (usually between 76 – 80 degrees Fahrenheit). These fish also generally require a 10-gallon tank, at the smallest, to thrive in communities with other fish. A Betta can, however, get by in a 5-gallon tank, but will do better in a community aquarium.

Other Freshwater Options

Other popular fish species include Barbs, Corys, and Platys, all of which are freshwater “community” fish and do well sharing an aquarium with other fish. Barbs and Platys tend to be middle-dwelling fish, meaning they are likely to remain at the center of the aquarium, and Corys are bottom dwellers, typically swimming along the bottom of a tank. Often, the shape of a fish’s mouth will determine where they are most likely to consume food in an aquarium, and consequently where they are most likely to remain. For instance, bottom dwellers have downturned mouths that are ideal for the sinking pellet variety of fish food, and fish that swim in the middle or near the surface of an aquarium have straight or upturned mouths, which may be more conducive to the flake variety of food. Be sure to select the most appropriate type of food for your fish!

Is Saltwater For You?

Generally, if you are new to the fish keeping hobby, it may best to start with a freshwater aquarium, which is easier to maintain than a saltwater aquarium. The reason for this is that saltwater aquariums require a bit more upkeep for fish to thrive, and are less forgiving when water conditions slip. However, if you have your heart set on a saltwater tank, your options in selecting fish include colorful Clownfish, Tangs, and Angelfish, to name a few. Just like freshwater fish, you need to consider how large the fish will grow and how the different fish types will get along. You will also need to add marine salt to your saltwater tank make the water chemistry correct.

Easy to use aquarium kits are a great way to determine chemical levels and keep water safe for your fish. Ensuring the proper habitat for your fish is also important – aquarium decorations, plants, or rocks are a fun way to enhance your aquarium, and can also provide benefits for your fish.

Whichever type of fish you choose, your aquarium is bound to be a fun and special addition to your home!